Jpotter57
I started out this project with the same thoughts as you. I bought a piece of 3/4" marine plywood and was going to cover it with carpet or rubber rug material. I placed the original on the plywood traced it and it out. Well it was not that simple. When I put the plywood in place, it did not conform to the back of the floor where it rolls up. That's when I decided to use is as a buck instead and hammer the sheet metal around it. This gave me a piece of steel that gently rolled up in the back to conform to the roll in the floor. In the back on that upward roll of the floor, it is held to the floor with sheet metal screws. The front and middle has brackets /spacers to keep it up off the floor to about the top of the drive shaft tunnel.
If I had to do it again I would make some changes. I would make it about 2" narrower. The actual 70D cardboard side panels sit on the right and left edge of the tray in two channels. I made them also, and you can see them in the pictures. The 70D side cardboard do not go all the way down to the floor. It is a bear to get this all lined up with the rear inside garnish molding. I was lucky because I had original cardboard as patterns.
Maybe this is an easier way to say it. If I had to do it again,
1 I would make it out of steel
2 The tray would be about 2" narrower
3 The cardboard side panels would go all the way to the floor and not stop on top of the tray in a chanel.
4 No one will ever notice the change if the tray is snug against the side of cardboard instead of on top of it.
5 If someone gets in into trouble, I would be happy to explain this on the phone.
Notice in the picture of an original pan that the back rolls up just a little to conform to the upward curve of the floor.
Do you have a pic of the back where it rolls up? A friend of mine had one of the 70D cars, but it's been a long time since he sold it, and I cant remember a lot of the details about it.
Pictures behind seat area.
The screws that I used to attach the side panels are incorrect and temporary. I have to take my side panels off after the car is painted so that I can attach the clips for my quarter panel stainless. The correct items are push in buttons. There is a tendency to scratch the cardboard when removing the push in buttons. That's why I used the temporary screws
.
The screws are correct for the very back panel in the middle.
So they used two methods to attach the back panels.
Try again for back pics
One of these should be a picture of the lower brace that I made.
Quote from: JPotter57 on 2013-01-09 18:05
Do you have a pic of the back where it rolls up? A friend of mine had one of the 70D cars, but it's been a long time since he sold it, and I cant remember a lot of the details about it.
JPotter57
I hope that one of these show the slight upward roll.
Jay
This one from the bottom of the pan shows the roll.
I see it now, that makes sense. How did you form the ribs in the tray? Heat? Were the ribs cut into the buck, then hammered into place with a mandrel?
"I see it now, that makes sense. How did you form the ribs in the tray? Heat? Were the ribs cut into the buck, then hammered into place with a mandrel?"
I was going to use a bead roller, but I didn't even bother with them when I noticed that it was nice and stiff after I cut out and finished off the rounded front edge.. Now the rubber lays flat when it is glued on the top of the tray.
When the sides and the front are bent over. I used a B tank plumber's bottle to scribe out the rounded front corners. ( A large coffee can is too small in diameter) Then I cut it out and welded a strip of metal around the rounded edge and ground it out. No filler was added. It looks like it was bent that way.
wondering what a stripped down rear seat frame looks like and wether it would make a suitable starting point? And provide the corners?
Zap- :unitedstates:
''wondering what a stripped down rear seat frame looks like and wether it would make a suitable starting point? And provide the corners?''
Zap
That's not going to work out for you with your grandchildren. I'll send you an email as soon as my server gets me signed back in again for email.
My passsword does not work anymore for some strange reason.
Jay
These are pictures of the back tray buck.
A-B Front to back 31 3/4"
C-D Left to right at notch (Front) 60 1/8"
E-F Left to right under side cardboard side panel 61 5/16"
G-H Left to right (back) under cardboard side panel 60 3/4"
On mine the front and side vertical lip is . 971 or about 31/32"
The horizontal lip that folds under off the vertical lip is .686 or about 11/16"
These are important because they help to keep it from buckling/oil canning.
If someone is planning on making one for a custom without the 70D cardboard side panels, it will be a little narrower.
The measurements will be about...
E-F Next to cardboard side panel 60 1/8"
G-H Next to cardboard side panel 60 3/4"
It would be a good idea to make a cardboard or panel board template and fit it to the car before making the steel tray.
Don't forget to keep enough metal on the left and right sides and in front so you can fold it down 1" and fold it in 1/2".
This is for strength to keep it from buckling.
JA
Jay, Would you be willing to trace a template onto butcher paper or something and mail it to me? I would pay for the paper and the postage of course, plus some for your time. If you would be willing to do that, just let me know, and I will get some green headed your way. If not, I understand, it is kind of a hassle.
Looking at it again, I see that you have dimensions there, I should be able to get a buck made off those...Let me see what I can do...
By the way, this is one of the coolest tech threads I have seen yet...This is a very rare part, that this member may help a lot of guys reproduce, and look good doing it...Thanks a ton, Jay..
I'd also be interested in a copy of that drawing with of course the same considerations offered by James.
Zap- :unitedstates:
JPotter57
Your all quite welcome. I'm happy to help. It is a fun project and the material shouldn't cost much to make it.
You should be able to make the template from those measurements without the butcher paper, and it will be more exact. The butcher paper makes it too hard to transfer it to the template material. Ask me how I know.this
Don't forget to leave extra metal on the sides and front as I stated. This is so you can fold it down and under.
If you have access to a brake you will not need a buck , just a template made from cardboard or panel board.
If you do use a brake, place an oxygen bottle or B tank on the left and right corners and trace out the radii. Cut out the round corners and the whole thing will fit in a brake. After folding the front and sides, You can just weld in a piece around the front curve and you are done.
You can transfer the back radii by laying the template on the transmission tunnel and running a compass around the inner wheel wells.
You also have to decide if you are going to make it so it fits under the cardboard side panels (as original) or next to stock custom cardboard panels which is easier to make. If so, no one will notice it...
Now if you are confused, call me.
Let me know how you make out Jay
Zap and James
I brought the buck into the house today to get these measurements. It's too cold to lay it out in the garage
There is one measurement that I didn't give you and that is the exact amount that it folds down and back under on the front and the sides. I'll check that out tomorrow and post it then.
Maybe I can get the camera under it and take a picture so you will get a better idea what I mean.
Thanks for your comments.
Jay A
eBay repop for '57s. 70D only????????????
Could not make the link work so here is the item # 130835024795
That e-bay item is just the cardboard trunk seperator. I think there was a cardboard piece in all '57's that fit inside the big opening so you wern't looking at the back of the seat from inside the trunk.
That was my first impression. All my cars were too rattie to have any paper or cardboard in them. So i have no evidence of what was behind the back seat.
Quote from: gasman826 li
eBay repop for '57s. 70D only??????nk=topic=3836.msg24075#msg24075 date=1358172318??????
Could not make the link work so here is the item # 130835024795
I just took a look at the one on eBay. It looks a lot like a 70D but........ The opening on the bottom in the middle is too wide.
Mine has just enough room on it for the drive shaft tunnel only. There are absolutely no similarities between the 70D cardboard and the other 57 models. The one on eBay may work if the tray will cover the lower drive shaft tunnel opening.
Hey guys, I'm going to be picking up a ranchero body from Randy Conner in the next month. Randy has a boat load of 57 &58 stuff, he has some e code stuff that has the backseat tray, or whatever they call it. With his permission I could photograph it. Anyone looking for some odd piece, send me a pm and I'll ask him. Had an interesting phone conversation with him, he succesfuly raced a ford on the dirt to a track championship, over a full field of chevys. Should be an interesting road trip, Mark
Mark
Randy Conner Is a real good guy and nice to do business with. This looks like a good opportunity for someone on the site to get a 57 BC back tray. Don't let it get away.
Jay
Mark I have been to Randy's place, he is a great guy and does love to talk and will show you all his stuff! He does have the corner on the market for "E" code stuff! He and his wife are pretty cool folks.
Bill, were you the guy who drove from Alabama to Randy's for fairlane 500 quarters? He sounds like a great guy, talked on the phone for 3 hours, my arm hurt. Mark
Yup that was me.....he forgot that my wife's family is in Antigo so the trip to his place was really only 4 hours. That was the trip to get the 500 fins for my Ranchero back when I wanted to build a 500 Ranchero....not too sure about that now....when you get to his place you'll understand why he likes to talk, he lives further of the road then most folks do from town!