Well, got my door panel done with nothing to hang it on, so logical next thing is to get the passenger door assembled. I had already installed the Electric Life power window assembly before I painted. I had also completed the fuzzy channel assembly, and wing window assembly, so not much to do but get everything installed. In order of what needs to be assembled first, I installed the new door handle, and new button assembly. I had found a NOS door latch assembly, and that needs to go on before the new door key lock. I was also lucky enough to find a nos lock tailpiece.
I cleaned up and repainted the door handle release mechanism and got that installed. 3M strip caulking works great for sealing the splined post to the inner door panel. Next to go in was the vent window assembly..totally rebuilt including new repro handle assembly, all new rubber and glass. The vent window will have to be moved a little after the channel is put in to loosen the rain gutter, so screws are just snug at this point. As with the window channel, all steel pieces were sandblasted and refinished, and all the stainless was restored. Note the channel has a bead, or finger, protruding past the end of the channel where it butts against the divider bar. this "extra" piece fits under the stainless rain gutter (see pic 011).
The door handle assembly, bth, has really oddball size screws..12-24's. Unless your replacing all screws anyway, don't lose them..they're hard to find. I am replacing all screws throughout the car with SS, and actually was able to locate come 12-24's at Fastenal..special order. Not sure why I ordered flat heads, but they work ok.
One note of assembly caution: make sure that finger on the steel brace the channel attaches to slides into the receptical for it on the inside of the door.
oops..forgot more pics
pic 009 shows how I routed the worm drive tube for the electric windows...it's the white tube over the door latch and under the glass channel. I ran it up into the door window frame.
The window anti-rattlers come preformed, and have the clips attached to the ones that fit on the door. The ones that fit on the garnish rails do not have clip..they are stapled on.
I also got the spring-loaded contact switch installed in the door jamb and wired to the electric windows. That drill motor battery has been working out real well for me checking out electrical stuff as I go. It's a 14 volt battery, but with the short spurts I use it for and the low amps, I don't think the 14 volts would cause any problems.
Tommorrow I'll get the glass installed. With all the problems I had with the drivers door seal, I'm going to install this door without the seal and get it adjusted before I put the seal on. It's alot easier on the bench, but I had a heck of a time even getting my door to close, never mind halfway adjusted with the new seal. We'll see how adding the seal after works out.
Rich
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2013-01-11 22:43
I had found a NOS door latch assembly, and that needs to go on before the new door key lock.
Rich your door project looks good and everything is nice and clean. You have a lot of patience.
I don't want to rob your thread, but I am in desperate need of a right door latch assembly for the right/passenger side. Mine has too much play and the door will not close tightly no matter how much I adjust the striker plate. I tried it with and without the door seal and it is still loose in the door opening.
the driver side fits nicely. The only thing wrong that I could find is that the door latch has over 1/2 inch of play and the pin is badly worn
If the one that you are taking off does not have excessive play, I would like to buy it from you if possible.
What did you do to the lower inside sections of your doors to keep them from rusting out?
I'm sorry about hijacking your thread
Keep up the good work.
Jay
Jay..that wasn't a hijack at all..that's why they call them threads. Threads are great when they open the door for lots of questions. Your post brings up lots of thoughts for me. First...this is like dejavue on the needing a door part....last year a retired cop from the notheast somewhere (Mike?) needed a door drivers quality handle, which I had and sent to him N/C. The only problem was, I put the handle in one of those padded envelopes the post office sells, and that was all he got..an empty torn envelope. Anyways..thought it was funny a retired cop needing a door part again.
I have my old one and it's actually in pretty good shape. Strange as it may seem, I've been replacing stuff on my car even when the old stuff was not too bad when I could find new or NOS stuff. The passenger side latch was one of those parts. If you want it PM me your address and I'll get it in the mail..in a box! I don't need anything for it, but if, after you get it, it works out ok for you, you can make a small donation to this website if you wish. It is really strange that it is your passenger side latch that is worn, and not the drivers. Just so you know passenger side latches are easily found NOS. I got mine in Arlington, Tx..the link is in our links list. He had about a dozen right side ones..told me he hadn't seen a driver's side NOS latch in years. I think I paid about $65 for the one I got, but as I said if you want my old one you're welcome to it. I'll answer the rust question on the next window.
More. Make sure your door jamb bumpers are in place also. there should be one at the top, and one at the bottom. They help a little keeping the door from rattling.
Rust prevention: I did my door just like I did the rest of the car...totally stripped to bare metal inside and out, and then a thorough bath with zinc phosphate. (I use por-15's Metal Ready, but they've changed the name recently). When I did the inside of the door, I got lots of the Metal Ready inside, and turned the door on all 4 side so the stuff would soak into the seams. After that, I por-15'd the inside as best I could with long handled brushes and a painter's mitt (maybe used a car washing mitt). very tedious and messy work for both the stripping and por-15'ing. Small mirrors come in handy to look at what you can't see otherwise. Also, a digital camera with a viewing screen that is not fixed is great for looking inside also.The stripping, btw, was finished with a soda blasting set-up. They have a small nozzle, unlike a sandblasting setup, that you can get inside the door with. After the por-15, I emptied a couple of rattle cans of rubberized undercoating inside the door. When I did the undercarriage on my car, I was able to use a regular bottled undercoating with a screw on gun, but like sandblasting, the gun wouldn't fit inside the door, where rattle cans will.
PS, JAY, after my Broncos beat the Ravens later today, I'm looking forward to a Broncos/Pats game next week.
Rich
That is a coincidence... Two retired cops needing door parts.
Are you planning on doing some under water driving with your car? Just joking, that's supposed to be a compliment. You put a lot into your doors to keep them from rusting. After making and welding a small strip into the bottom of my passenger door, I cleaned the inside, but not as good as you did. Actually I cleaned most of it after I cut the piece out of the lower front skin. The lower part was good so the outside repair was a walk in the park That way I could reach inside and do some scrubbing. Man I sure don't have this explanation in chronological order. (If I were still on the job and wrote a report like this, I would have to do it over again) I'll try to keep the rest of story in order
Well when the welding was all done and the inside of the door was as clean as I would get it, I put tape on all the drain holes and openings around the door. Next thing to do was to spread newspaper on the floor. It then poured a thick layer of Rustoleum into the large opening inside the door. Then I stood the door on it's edge and kept rotating it so that paint was coming out the edges and top. After it dried, I did it a second time. So I would like to thing that it will be sealed and not start rusting again in a big hurrry.
I did the same to the left door except that it did not need any patch panel welding.
Yes I would like to have your extra door latch and will be more than happy to make a donation to the forum.
Did you get the bug out of your computer and can you get email now?
Jay
as far as I know, there are no problems with my email now. It would be safer though to just send me a personal message on this forumn. Just go to any post that has my name on it..on the left, and under my name you'll see some icons. if you run your cursor over them one will be "send this member a personal message".
As far as the rustproofing goes...the word "overkill" probably suits most of what I've done to this car.
btw, I know 2 collectors in this area that together own over 100 '57 Fords..and not a one business coupe between them.
As far as the rustproofing goes...the word "overkill" probably suits most of what I've done to this car.
btw, I know 2 collectors in this area that together own over 100 '57 Fords..and not a one business coupe between them.[/quote]
Richard
I just sent you a PM
As much as I thought I knew about the 57 Fords, I never did see or hear of a BC one when I was growing up. I always did like the customs especially that one SS strip on the quarter panels.
It does seem like we have some business coupes on this site though with missing trays. I hope that some of the guys can make them now. It is really not that difficult.
"Overkill" is good when it comes to rust prevention. We want these cars to be around for another 50 years and we are just the caretakers of them.
Thank You very much for your generous offer. Let me know if I can help you with something. Jay
I'll try to get it in the mail early next week.
I guess we won't be making a bet on the Bronco/Pats game. shoooooot!
btw, one of the guys joked about you making a factory options list on your car in 3 words or less. I can do it in one word...radio...although I can't remember if my passenger door panel had an armrest, and somebody eluded to that maybe being an option, so I may have to use 2 words.
Rich,
I think heaters were options on our cars...... did yours have one? Mine had heater,clock and radio. guessing the V8 was also not the standard engine in a bc. Not sure if the radio was stock though and then how about cigarette lighters not found on most cars today but every 50s car I've had has had one.
Zap- :unitedstates:
my car had the dealer installed heater, so I didn't count it as a factory option. I also only had the one sun visor...I looked for my visor delete piece a year or two ago when James was looking for one and couldn't find it...if it ever turns up, I'll let you guys know.
"I'll try to get it in the mail early next week.
I guess we won't be making a bet on the Bronco/Pats game. shoooooot!
btw, one of the guys joked about you making a factory options list on your car in 3 words or less. I can do it in one word...radio...although I can't remember if my passenger door panel had an armrest, and somebody eluded to that maybe being an option, so I may have to use 2 words."
I must be the only guy in the whole United States that never got in to sports.
I thought Bronco was a Ford Vehicle with a nice narrow 9" rear end. Ravens were Birds that fly high in the air, and Pat was some guy with that name. Took me a while to figure it out. Sorry that I didn't respond to that part of your previous post. I guess that I missed out on a good bet.
My 57 has a factory installed heater "Thank God". I installed heaters in all of my 34 Fords and my 40 Ford Deluxe coupe has a factory heater. They are nice to have when we want to go for a drive in one of the cars on a cold dry day in the winter. I never take them out in the snow or deliberately into the can I if I can help it. I have seen 57s with the heater delete plate on them.
I do know one person that is restoring a 70D. It came with a Y Block automatic for sure and heater delete I'm pretty sure.
If someone is looking for a visor delete I have one, $25 includes shipping.
Jay ...are you sure your heater is factory installed? A high percentage of them were dealer installed. Easiest way to tell is the dealer installed heater only used one of the two large holes on the right firewall, and the upper large hole in the cowl would have a delete plate. The factory heater used both holes and therefore had a fresh air intake for the heater.
I got the door latch in the mail today..I think they said delivery could be expected around the 22nd. It should work out real well for you...there is almost no slop in the pin hole. It will need a good cleaning and lub.
Rich
Forgot to mention...funny, since this was my door assembly thread...I did get the glass in and the channels adjusted so the power window operates smoothly. I also got the spring snap-in clips put on the door panel, and the door pull mounted. That leaves nothing to do but get her hung and adjusted, then put on the door seal.
Jay..somewhere here there is a bullitin on adjusting the door striker plates. It may be in the list of bulletins I posted last year..I'll see if I can find it. If I remember correctly, the striker is adjusted so the roller that is behind the starwheel should be 1/16 below the bottom outer plate on the striker, so that when the door closes it actually raises the door up 1/16". There is no adjustment in the latch, so that adjustment has to be made on the striker plate. Repro and nos striker plates are redily found btw if you determine yours is worn.
I've been watching for the latches (door part). Where the rotating gear/cog rotates in the plate, there is wear. I haven't got that far yet but I am wondering if this side play will give any problems.
To be honest, I'm not sure how much of a problem it could be. My drivers door latch was pretty loose, but too tell the truth with all the seals and stuff so worn, I'm not sure how much of the rattling was caused by the latch itself. While keeping your eyes open, if you ever see a nos drivers side, "latch" on to it (pardon the pun), it took me 2 years to find mine, and it was a '57 mercury latch that I had to modify. The guy I bought it from for 45. ebay told me if it were a '57 ford drivers side latch, it would be 150-200 easy.
Quote from: Ecode70D on 2013-01-13 11:10I must be the only guy in the whole United States that never got in to sports.
You are not alone. If the "sport" doesn't involve something that has an engine & there is a race I am really not interested. I kind of go by something widely attributed, perhaps falsely, to Ernest Hemingway.
"There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games."Don't care for bullfighting or mountain climbing, but I get the point.
Oh, yeah. I have an old beat up Bronco to plow snow & I like to watch & take pix of the ravens here in the winter. That is when them wily Ravens let me. Hard to get a real good pic of a big black bird. They are the brains of the bird kingdom & do some amazing things.
UH-OH! He's gonna get my bike!
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/critters/Buell-bigRaven.jpg)
Hijack off. (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/smilies/hide.gif)
That's funny. Pretty country up there, but there are times when Texas is too cold for me.
Oh, yeah. I have an old beat up Bronco to plow snow & I like to watch & take pix of the ravens here in the winter. That is when them wily Ravens let me. Hard to get a real good pic of a big black bird. They are the brains of the bird kingdom & do some amazing things.
UH-OH! He's gonna get my bike!
Tom S
I hope that you were able to save the bike before he took it and flew away. And I always thought that they made things bigger in another state. That Is some beautiful country up there in Alaska. I have to assume that your summers are very short. Do you get much time for cruising with the old cars?
Jay
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2013-01-14 17:52
To be honest, I'm not sure how much of a problem it could be. My drivers door latch was pretty loose, but too tell the truth with all the seals and stuff so worn, I'm not sure how much of the rattling was caused by the latch itself. While keeping your eyes open, if you ever see a nos drivers side, "latch" on to it (pardon the pun), it took me 2 years to find mine, and it was a '57 mercury latch that I had to modify. The guy I bought it from for 45. ebay told me if it were a '57 ford drivers side latch, it would be 150-200 easy.
Rich
I just don't seem to get that quote thing right and have it in the gray background . I did it one time though. Sooner or later I'll get it right. I would rather be hammering a piece of sheet metal to make a patch panel to repair a rusty panel than messing with computers that I don't understand
Jay
Anyways I'm thinking that those door latches can be very tricky. My left one has not quite as much play as my right, but the left closes nicely both with and without the door rubber seals. My seals are just taped in for testing purposes. My right has has lots of play both with and without the door seal and with the striker adjusted in as far as it will go. I'm hoping that your latch assembly will do the trick.
Jay
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2013-01-14 14:36
Jay ...are you sure your heater is factory installed? A high percentage of them were dealer installed. Easiest way to tell is the dealer installed heater only used one of the two large holes on the right firewall, and the upper large hole in the cowl would have a delete plate. The factory heater used both holes and therefore had a fresh air intake for the heater.
I got the door latch in the mail today..I think they said delivery could be expected around the 22nd. It should work out real well for you...there is almost no slop in the pin hole. It will need a good cleaning and lub.
Rich
Rich
I'm not sure about the holes that you are talking about. My heater core tubes come of the two smaller holes. I just have caps over them to keep foreign stuff out of the new heater core. The large hole is for my blower that will get installed one of these day. Hope that the picture goes through.
Rich
These are my heater dash controls. I somehow remember a 57 dash switch that is not like this but just one button/switch for the blower. But then again after 60 plus years It could just be my imagination.
You have the factory installed heater. That open hole in your cowl where the blower set in is where the factory installed heater gets outside air from the cowl vent.
The dealer installed heater does not have that fan in the cowl, thus has a plate over the opening. The knob you are remembering was probably on a car that had the dealer installed heater. If I remember mine that I took out years ago (dealer installed), it just had the one knob you're talking about....so, nothing wrong with your memory!
Quote from: Ecode70D on 2013-01-16 11:43I hope that you were able to save the bike before he took it and flew away.
He didn't get the bike, or me! I think he was just attracted to something shiny. I hid! Then a big moose came along & he went after that.
(Click on him)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/vids/th_AIRPORTMOOSE4MPEG2FILEMPG.jpg) (http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/vids/?action=view¤t=AIRPORTMOOSE4MPEG2FILEMPG.mp4)
Quote from: Ecode70DDo you get much time for cruising with the old cars?
For years I used to run the wheels off my 406 powered '31/'32 Roadster in the summer.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/ROADSTER/25thSHINE013-1.jpg)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/ROADSTER/25thSHINE011.jpg)
But I got back in to bikes in 1996 & now the poor Roadster has become a garage queen. I catch a lot of crap for that, but if I ran the Roadster down the road like I do the bikes I'd probably be busted every time I took it out.
I have 6 streetable bikes now. Get about six months of riding & will be freezin' your butt off at the start & end of the season. The bikes get a lot more miles on them than the roadster ever could. If I
have to drive a car in the summer I am not happy.
My favorite bike for years was that '96 Buell S1 above but I got a new Ducati Hypermotard SP mid summer of 2011 & it has taken over 1st place.
Duc, day one ...
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/Ducati/Duc-dayone-6-21-1118.jpg)
Built a small luggage rack, just painted the subframe red & added carbon fiber bodywork. (I wanted an all black bike, couldnt get it.)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/Ducati/Subframepainting25.jpg)
Man, Rich is gonna be pissed for my hyjackin' his thread. I'm just gonna blame it on you for asking those questions. Not saying it's your fault, just that I'm gonna blame you. (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/smilies/lol.gif)
First of all, I hope that big mean pet bird of yours didn't eat up that nice little moose,
Now let me say this. You can't beat an open roadster with a beautiful 406 engine. It even has the nice headers on it. It's refreshing to see a Ford in a Ford.
Before I found my 57 custom, I built up a 58 custom and installed a 406. I even was able to squeeze in the cast iron headers.
That car would get up and go, so I can imagine that engine in a roadster.
Jay...I'll rehijack the post back because I think I came across some forgotten info that might help you. You had mentioned your door had about 1/2" of slop, and that you had the striker plate moved INas far as it would go. That probably is the problem. That starwheel has to catch on the second gear tooth on the striker plate. That's the safety design built in. By having the striker all the way in, the gear isn't catching the second tooth, so move it OUT and I'll bet your door latches the way it should. I should have caught that sooner, knowing the worn latch wouldn't give that much slop. Hope that works. I probably would never remembered that if I wasn't just out in my garage adjusting the passenger door I just put on, and remembered why I had all the problems I did trying to get my drivers door to latch properly.
Jay..I just sent you a pm
Rich
That's an interesting point, I once told the guy who was restoring a 57 custom in Florida, that the cast headers fit in a 57 with an FE.My first dirt car had a 427 with cast headers. But it started life as a 58, the difference being the 58 steering box, can't remember the guys name, he sold the car,don't think he appreciated my advice. Rich, sorry to change the subject again, Mark
LOL...that's ok Mark..should have titled the thread "open door assembly"
All the guys around here told me that you couldn't get the cast iron headers on a FE in a 57. That was enough reason for me to do it.
Rich
I tried that already. When I adjusted the striker plate out, and tried to close the door, it was no where near the B post.
Tomorrow I am going to try again though and I'll let you know what happens.
This is part of the fun in playing with our toys. I enjoy a challenge.
Jay
well, after a little set back, my tudor finally has 2 doors. The electric window wasn't operating as smoothly as the driver's side, and the more I played with adjusting the glass channels, the worse it got. Finally I looked down into the door and saw the white pvc/nylonish tube that the worm drive rides in was broken on both sides of the motor. I pulled it out and looked at the way the tube was glued in to the housing and didn't think it was repairable. Checking a replacement price from Jegs, I found out the kit I used is just under 300. now. I think I paid 1/2 that 3 or 4 years ago at a goodguys show. anyways...looked at it some more and figured I might be able to fix it if I could find the right size tubing. Lowe's had some soft copper tubing just the right ID and OD. I drilled out the old tubing as far as I could and pushed the copper in. I didn't think I'd be succesful trying to glue copper to nylon, and I didn't want to use hose clamps on the nylon housings, so I just put the hose clamps on the copper and wired them so they couldn't pull out. Not pretty, but it worked really slick. So, finally got that back in, the door panel installed, and both doors are now wired to the switches located in the console.
Rich,
I can't say it enough, NICE :003:, really,really NICE! :003:
Thanks,
Tim :unitedstates:
PS: Even though you are out of New England, their is still some farmer blood in you! Cleaver fix!
Nice fix Rich, you're living proof there is an answer, just have to look harder sometimes.
Yeah, something about having to pay 300 bucks to replace a new part that makes you look some more. Answers aren't usually my problem...it's understanding the questions needed to be asked that is what I have a tough time with.
Perfect example: after wiring up the contact switches in the door to the switches in the console, I of course wanted to check it out, so I hooked up a temp power source to the power supply wire feeding the switches. I clipped my leads to the grounding block and to the power supply wire. Being Lazy, I didn't unhook the power wire from the fuse panel, not thinking it would also run power backwards into the fuse panel. Yeah, stupid I know. Anyway as soon as I added power to the wire, I heard a motor running. I thought, how can that be...the doors are both open, so the contact switches aren't making contact. My neighbor came in at that point and I had to go help him with something. When I got back, I unhooked the power wire from the fuse panel, added power and everything checked out fine.
Later that evening some of the guys here were discussing wiper motor conversions..and
opps minor emergency..will finish later
Great save on the power window assembly! I view cobbling as a art form. I am discussed to see shoddy, unsafe, over priced, stupid work go under the name of cobbled. Every hot rodder has a little cobbler in them. It is a skill one should be proud of. Rich, I hope you take this in manner that I am offering, you are a Picasso of cobble.
I'm back. My Neice's truck broke down on her way to work, fortunatly only a few blocks from the house. My next door neighbor never returned the tow strap they borrowed, so I had to jury rig something up..but it was only a few blocks. Man, it's cold out there 20 * with a wind.
Anyways, As I said later that evening some of the guys were talking about the wiper conversions, and it dawned on me it wasn't the power window motor I was hearing, it was maybe the wiper motor. Went out and checked the wiper switch and it was in the "on" position. The good news is the fairly elaborate wiring harness I made for the wiper motor/control module/multi-function switch aparently works. The bad news is I hadn't finished figuring out why the hard arms I had installed weren't working as freely as they were when I first made it...think I have two of the arms switched. I had left some tools in there as well so I would remember to finish that up. Well, as you can imagine, I now have some more stuff to fix with the wiper motor having run unexpectedly. SHEEETTTTT!!!! But I am really really really happy about there being power to the wiper motor. LOL
That being said, you should always test run the wipers prior to putting the arms on. Why you ask? If they are in the wrong position you might sweep them into the cowl and gidge the paint all up, ask me how I know. :homer:
Funny you should mention that. Actually, since my windows checked out ok, I thought I'd fix the wiper cowl setup. First thing I did was unhook tho motor arm...figured I'd attach one piece at a time and adjust things as I went along. I went around to all the wires I had coming out of the fuse box and still open at the other end, putting wire nuts on them just to make sure I didn't cause any shorts. I then ran power and ground into the fuse panel. Now I can't get the wiper motor to work at all. Windows and dome light still work, but no wipers. When I get back to it, I'll check all the fuses, connections, grounds, etc. Not sure what's going on there. I do hear a slight constant ticking noise when power is applied...very similar to a clock ticking. No, I don't have a clock in there. I'll also try power to the motor direct to make sure I didn't screw that up when I unexpectedly powered it up the other day. LOL..man, if a little knowledge is dangerous, VERY LITTLE knowledge may just turn into a nightmare.
Wow Rich that car is beautiful.
Thank you, thank you. I'm starting to like it a little.
Quote from: Ecode70D on 2013-01-17 20:33
Rich
I tried that already. When I adjusted the striker plate out, and tried to close the door, it was no where near the B post.
Tomorrow I am going to try again though and I'll let you know what happens.
This is part of the fun in playing with our toys. I enjoy a challenge.
Jay
If you posted anything on your door adjustment, I didn't see it. Any luck?One of the new guys on the Hamb was having same problem with his '57. I told him pretty much what I told you, but he was leaving for a months vacation the morning after I emailed him, so I'll have to wait a while to find out if he had any luck.
Rich
Rich, I tried moving my striker plate all over the place but I think my door is being held out by the like new door seals. I left it latched while I'm away, the rubber probably isn't liking the move from dry Arizona to the wet coast.
I plan on using a product called Fluid Film inside my doors and other body crevices, it sticks like sh*t to a goose and is a penetrant. Any metal that hasn't had the moisture removed, eg heated, and is painted still is susceptible to galvanic corrosion under the paint. Rustoleum is good stuff as long as the metal is dry. We use FF around here in boats - I've had that stuff in my wet hatches for over 2 yrs and it's still good. A friend did a test by putting a bunch of these products on steel and left it out in the weather for 6 mons. and FF had the best results for longevity.
Here's a trick you may be interested in for your wiper arms and door work. I wanted to see my hood latch's working alignment so I hooked up one of those cheap USB connected cameras to a laptop, put on top of the engine with a light, and watched the video as the hood closed -recorded it even! It also was helpful to watch my new clutch linkage just clear one of the header tubes as I pushed in the pedal.
Only 1 night since I left my new baby and I think I'm having what they call "separation anxiety".
Lorne..Missed this post yesterday...lots of good info there, thanks. I used a parifin based product inside my rockers that may be similar to the Fluid Film you're using. I would have used it in other areas had I found out about it before I assembled my interior. Nifty idea with the camera. I won't need it with my wiper setup though..it's totally visable from the cowl vent openings.It may come in handy when I set up my remote trunk release though.
Speaking of your clutch pedal..It was hard to tell from your photos if the clutch brackets/z-bar were causing any clearance issues with the steering issue we were discussing.
Door seals are a major headache trying to get the door to latch. I had to strap my driver's door closed for a few weeks before I was able to get it to latch just shutting the door hard. One of the topics we've talked about on here is the problem with the seals being one of the items that are available, but not made all that well. They seem to be too thin in some spots, and too thick in others. Just something we have to live with...at least they're available.
Rich
The latch I used for my hood is an approx 1975 5th Estate (D*dge) trunk elect/mech latch, don't know what the new trunk latch is from yet- it's mech with a lever I just saw on some aftermarket site. Wish I could say I'll run out and take a pic!
Not sure if I'm going to go with just a cable release to the back seat area, or an electric..which actually may be an easier install. Where is the mechanical lever actuated from on yours?
Shame you had to install a hood latch just to satisfy the DMV up there. Seems kinda a waste with the hydraulic tilt setup for the tilt nose.
One other question...I can't remember any specifics about the drivetrain in yours. What's it running?
After it's inspected then I can take some crap back off.
Looks like Discover Classic Cars is having a close-out (moving sale). My trunk release is mounted at the top of the drivers side kick panel -can't see in pics. It looks a lot like this Lokar pic.
I was told the engine is a 390, stroke measures that and it's got common 390 heads with some kind of solid cam and 750Holley.
4spd toploader and posi with as yet undetermined ratio.
I'm kicking myself for not looking at the back of the block when I had the scattershield off- the block is a 69 with the hand stamped numbers on the left rear top of the block like 428's had. I need to measure the stroke more accurately.
Looks like a nice setup on the trunk release. Back when I was using mine a a daily driver, and the trunk release broke, I just tied a string to it and ran it thru the back seat!! worked great. I was thinking of just running a cable to a pull knob under the front of the back seat.
I've been meaning to ask..when you bought the car, did you drive it home or have it shipped?
BTW, I just googled your town to see where it was. I didn't realize you were so close to Vancouver. Absolutly some of the prettiest country I've ever been in, although I haven't been to any of the islands like where you live. Hoping some day to get back up there. I always wanted to repeat a road trip I did 10 years ago when I finish my car...Vancouver BC to Key West, Fla.
Presents or lack of partial VIN stamped in the block is not an absolute. Remember the Ford rule...there are always exceptions! Some argue partial VIN stamping was a Fed requirement started during the '69 model run. Someone had the job of stamping part of the VIN on or near the upper, left, rear corner of the block. There is argument whether some were missed and some were stamped on the back of the head. I have seen both and some so poorly stamped that they barely exist. In the dealership, there was no requirement to stamp service parts. For warranty purposes, I was asked to confirm partial VIN a few times. Partial VIN stamping was not exclusive to 428 CJs. FYI, I still own a set of stamps!
Rich, I did have it shipped to Blaine, Wa and I picked it up with my trailer there. Only trouble was we came back on the one day we actually had snow (not like what's happening in the east right now) but we lucked out with all the problems happening just behind us but the car cover I had on had a small plastic grommet on each side which scuffed the paint down behind the door on both sides. Florida to Vancouver- that would be a trip!
Gasman, that's neat you have those stamps! I've read just what you said in other places -all I know for sure is that it has more than enough power for me -for now anyway!