Hey everyone, first , I want to say that I wish all of you a very happy new year.
Next, my question. My 57 has a custom made trans cross member. I want to put the factory one back in, but, on the passenger side , two of the threaded holes on the frame are missing.
They look to have been pushed in leaving two holes about twice the size that the threads were.
Anyone have any ideas on a fix?
Thanks, Roger
Without seeing it, I would guess you could have a couple nuts MIG welded into the frame. Enlarge the holes to fit the nuts if you would need to.
The ones with the flange already on them work good, gives you more room to weld. Mark
What ever method you use it will have to be flush with the frame rail, the stock crossmember is a tight fit.
For what reason did your car have a custom made crossmember that you no longer need? Maybe be something I can use.
Rich, I dont know why the person who owned my car before me made this crossmember, it
doesn't make much sense to me. You are welcome to have it once I change it out, but, I doubt
that you would want it. They welded two ears on the the inside of the frame, on both sides, and then made a cross member out of a piece of 2 inch box tube. The tube goes between the ear on each side with a bolt going through the whole thing. The biggest problems with it are this.
It is mounted too high, not enough room for a trans mount, the trans sits directly on the cross member and is bolted to it. Also, no room to run the exhaust in the normal spot, it has to be run under the cross member.
Roger
I wonder, can you line it up and drill a hole straight through? And a LONG bolt? anybody this this would work?
I was doing some wishful thinking maybe you were taking out a really well made one for an aod because you were going back stock. Thanks anyway...I'll keep with my plans of having the shop that's going to set the 4.6 in for me do a custom tranny crossmember.
Rich
I believe the original bolts are size 3/8. Drilling a 3/8 or slightly larger hole straight through would probably work. If the hole already there is bigger than a 3/8's diameter, you could put a bushing over the end or a solid bushing for that matter. You can get long drill bits down to any Lowes or a hardware store. The long bolt would have to be grade 8.
There used to be a product that worked like a rivet gun and would insert threads into blind holes or whatever else you needed threaded. They may not work being the frame is pretty thick but it may be something to look into. I think they were called thread serts or something lie that.
Randy
Randy,
I think what you are referring to is a helicoil. That might also be something to look into. The hole has to be a specific size and you buy the size according to your need. The Fastenal stores have them I believe. Don
I know what Randy is talking about but my memory has gone blank as to the name. We use to install them in thin aluminum where there wasn't enough thickness to tap the hole for threads. A helicoil would require a tapped hole first.
Can't remember what they're called either its kind of like a pop-rivet with internal threads.
Zap- :unitedstates:
Nut serts is the common name.
Thumbs down on the long bolt. The frame is hollow and will crush. Just weld a nut in. Clean it up and it will work fine. It does not show after the cross member is installed.
I agree with Gary. The only way I'd go thru the frame is welding in a heavy wall piece of tubing protruding just a tad on inside and outside, then grinding flush after welding.
Rich
Do other components like the steering box and idler arm that are bolted through the frame have tubes? I wouldn't think the trans cross member would have to be tightened to the point of collapsing the frame? I would just snug it down good with lock nuts.
Yes, they do!
Thanks, I'll have to take a look at that next week when I pull my box.
I'm not saying that you would crush the frame but as you torque the bolts, the sides of the frame will squeeze some before the bolts are fully torqued. Under normal driving conditions, stopping and starting, the cross member will move and eventually erode the bolt holes. The frame was not that thick to begin with and 50 years of rust has them a little thinner. Both the steering box and idler arm have sleeves.
It sounds like Rich's idea of putting in a tube would work pretty well then.
On racecars we would slip a piece of tube through and weld it like Gary and Rich are saying, then you can tighten it up all you want, Mark