I inspected the cowl drain tubes last week on my 300 and sure enough there wasn't anything left of them except a couple of shards of broken up rubber. I would like to thank Rich for his information about the location and inspection of these tubes. My new floor would have been a bathtub if I didn't replace them. I ordered a set off E bay last week and they arrived today. One does not need to remove the fenders to do the job, but it's highly unlikely that it can be done without taking the hood off. My hood is off, so I used a fender cover to cover the top of the radiator and crawled into the engine compartment and took out the two screws on the cowl side holding the retainer over the rubber flange. Note they are #8 phillips screws and not hex head. I had to use a mirror to find this out. Once the screws were out I pryed the retainer off and then went inside and pulled the insulation down to gain access to the rubber tube clamp. The clamp was fused to the metal tube so I carefully freed it up and cut a 3/4 inch wide piece of 80D sandpaper and wrapped it around the tube and cleaned all the old rubber off. I then lubed the inside of the new tube so it would turn easily on the metal tube when installing the retainer and screws. Installing the retainer screws was the hardest part of the whole thing. Probably took me a half hour to align and get them started. I have one side completely done and one screw to go on the other and then tighten the clamp under the dash. One thing I didn't mention is a person should take a long screw driver or punch and tap the retainer screws up under the dash to make them easier to be removed. Mine came out very easy after I did that, using a stubby phillips screwdriver.
:icon_salut: :boobies2: :boobies2: :boobies2:
WOW RICH! Never had so much respect for a smiley face!
them's my favorites...they sure put a smile on your face.
anyone have a picture where they should be. I cannot seem to find mine (sure they are gone then).
I do..I'll look for them and post them. pic from inside is where they go, they're just not on at this point. Outside pic is installed. I used a plumber's floor flange to replace my rusted original flanges.
Hasn't been mentioned yet, but they are also clamped of course to the cowl tubes with hose clamps.
Good pictures Rich.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2013-01-28 21:14
them's my favorites...they sure put a smile on your face.
X2 . and thanks for the heads up on the drain tubes guys. I have to check mine. Now that I know where to look.
next time I crawl under the dash I can know what I am looking for. THANKS! they must be there. Had to drive in the rain (not a downpour) once. And floor stayed dry. But still worth a check!
For the guys with assembled cars, it would seem like we could replace those tubes from the inside once you got the old screws out (hacksaw, chisel, punch them thru?). I would think you could use a sealer to seal the rubber flange against the inside of the sidepanel. You could even put the retaining ring on the inside...one screw would do. Maybe not the best way...but for some of us older guys with bodies that don't cooperate like they use to, it would be a better alternative than not doing anything. Just a thought.
Anyone looking for the cowl drain tube location, Milo57"s podcast post has a real nice picture of the hole in the side of the cowl where the rubber tube goes in. It shows up nice with the white paint.
I'm sure glad that I did mine when the front fenders were off. It does not look like fun when it is all together.
Guys:
The thread on the cowl drain tube is a good one. Here are a couple of shots of my 57 300 when it was disassembled and going back together last year. The final shot is of the finished driver side cowl drain tube connected to the fenderwell and draining to the outside of the fenderwell. Rick came up with this method of keeping the back of the fender at the bottom from becoming the gathering spot for dirt and then being wet every time the car is washed or rained on turning the dirt into mud. We've all experienced that lower fender as being rust prone. Draining the cowl to the outside of the car just seems like a good idea and not too difficult to do.
No it isn't stock, it's better than stock (IMO).
Bob
57 AGIN
Guys:
Here is one more photo of my cowl drain on the passenger side when I bought the car back in 1998. Also included is one photo of the floor board at that same time, the old rubber floor mat is pulled back and the kick panel is at the top of the photo while the rusty floorboard is at the bottom. All has since been replace on this "California" car.
Bob
57 AGIN
Thanks 57AGIN, I like the idea of moving the drain to the in-er fender. I checked mine... :005:
they probably look like the day they were put on . Yes I am a lucky bastage :002:.
I love the idea of moving it to the fenderwell
Adding to this 5 year old thread since it seemed to have the most or best info about the cowl drains . :001:
The cowl drain rubbers were comply gone from the very pretty 'finished' Ranchero I bought from the classic car dealer in Portland without seeing it in person. I did pull out a couple pieces of what was left of the rubber. It was very thin & brittle & almost felt like a piece of thick paper. What I did is not as fancy or complicated as some have done but it will keep water away from rust prone body panels. Easy enough to change later if desired.
FoMoCo didn't do us any favors when they routed those drains.
I tried but could not get the flanges off of the cowl with the fenders on & wasn't about to take the fenders off for this. Don't see that it will matter at all.
Maybe the hardest part of this was getting the thick 1.25" plastic tubing lined up with the cowl drains with so little room to work. Also wasn't quite enough room to put the new hose clamps on that tubing before getting it on to the cowl drain. Had to open them up & put 'em on afterwards. Hard to realign the ends back into the screw slot with no room to even see them. The rusty straight slot screws on the original clamps weren't much of a joy either. : )
That's a great fix for those who don't want to spend days disassembling their car to get at that mentioned flange. Thanks for posting that, Tom.
Thanks, Rich. It might help out a n00b here. Without yours & many others posts here there are many details about our '57s that could be missed & overlooked that could result in problems.
Since I mentioned that blue wire covering here is an engine pic that I got from that dealer in Portland. Man that stuff sucks.
Wonder if this Photobucket pic link will work after they sold to Fox & Fox shafted all the P-bucket users by jacking subscription prices over the top.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/Ranchero%202/Blue%20390%20auto%20matthews%20memory%20lane%20motors%209.jpg)
Well, surprise! It worked! (Does for me anyway, do you see it?)
I see I see. What you need is some blue spark plug wires.
I'm totally baffled by the cars I see at car shows that don't have any wires, or tubes you can see. I've asked guys if their car actually ran.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2018-10-02 17:08What you need is some blue spark plug wires.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/smilies/nono.gif) No way, man! All that blue stuff distracts from what else there is to look at that should be the main focus. It seems to draw the eye at first sight. It's overdone & it's gotta go!
I've seen and felt some of this stuff in person & it looks real good. Looks kinda like the cloth covering that was once used & I think it's way more flexible than that plastic stuff. I may be able to get some locally, which I prefer to do, if not I'll order some. And as it should be, in black!
https://www.google.com/search?q=braided+wire+covering&client=firefox-b-1&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi8x8jx5ejdAhWCMXwKHbpYD3YQsAR6BAgBEAE&biw=870&bih=502
I agree, the blue has to go. Hope you don't find any surprises like I did, ended up doing a lot of rewiring and just wrapped it in black electrical type similar to the original.
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2018-10-02 19:35I agree, the blue has to go.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/smilies/THUMB.gif) Thank you!
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2018-10-02 19:35Hope you don't find any surprises like I did ...
I'd be surprised to find anything that resembles or follows the original wiring under the hood or the dash. It's all a big bundled up mystery.
None of the stock gauges work & the gauge panel doesn't even light up. Yet.
Horn didn't work for 2 reasons.
One was that this little part was missing from the @#$% Flamin' River steering column. It does come with the column but whoever installed the column didn't bother to put it in.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/Ranchero%202/Horn%20Contact%20Kit%20%20Flaming%20River%20steering%20column.jpg)
$21.47 for that?! (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/smilies/roll.gif) Made my own part quite easily.
Number two was that they had the horn wire from the column plugged into the wrong wire. Never found out what that wire was or where the wire from the horn relay came thru the firewall. Ran a new wire from the relay & added a second horn. Now it sounds good like a '57 should. :001:
That looks like a standard Ford yellow top coil? but I don't see a ballast resistor, or is there a resistor wire inline?
Yeah those blue wire covers are a bit much. This is a great discussion though. Now I can add "modify the drain tubes" to my growing list of things to do while putting the car back together!
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2018-10-03 05:49... I don't see a ballast resistor, or is there a resistor wire inline?
Nope. That's another part that somebody didn't think was needed. No ballast resistor or inline resistor wire. After finding that the worn points had only about a 0.005" gap & the timing set to several degrees
after TDC I began to wonder how the engine even ran. Had a Pertrionix ignition that I'd never used & put that in along with some new plugs. Keepin' the points in the glove box.
I was told that this 390 was rebuilt & had very low miles. The guy I dealt with said that the prior owner lived down the road from him, had several collector cars, & seldom drove this one. He said he doubted that it had over 3000 miles on it. From the looks of the oil so far I do believe that the engine was apparently rebuilt. Oil's very clean.
LOL, I had many of the same issues and wondered how I even made it home, and that was only one mile away :005:
cowl drain is a great improvement over the og design!
It's a shame how many classic car owners make stupid and careless mistakes. Actually I could write a book with things done totally wrong by the PO or even pro shops.
Just last weekend I attempted to replace the valve shaft seals in my German '64 Ford only to find there were none used with the last rebuild. no wonder it smoked badly and ran awfully. sometimes we really want to kick the previous owners ......., .... football.... :003:
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2018-10-03 14:52
LOL, I had many of the same issues and wondered how I even made it home, and that was only one mile away :005:
I kinda wonder if I'd have bought this Ranchero if I'd seen it in person & could have given a test drive.
But besides the nice paint it had many things that I liked & wasn't too overpriced.
390
Disk Brakes
Electric wipers
Nice &
mostly stock appearing interior
*Borgesson power steering
*(I could easily live without power steering & would rather have a stock ('58) steering column, box & steering wheel)
And it wasn't as far away as others I'd seen so shipping costs, even expensive enough as they were, wouldn't be a total deal breaker.
Too bad it did not come with a 4 barrel carb and at least a stick shift of any kind. Hate the auto & the lame Lokar shifter & its big cover box.
Bought an Edelbrock Performer RPM and the Summit 4 barrel 600cfm.
Carb came from Amazon with the very rare free shipping to Alaska. Manifold cost another $72 to ship.
The Summit carb seems to be much improved Autolite 4100. I am very familiar with the Autolite 4100 & the 2100. I like 'em a lot better than Holleys. 4100s are so much easer to work on & I've read nothing but praise for that Summit carb.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-m08600vs
Thought I had everything lined out to install a 4 speed. Part of that deal fell thru except the for trade I made. Traded an old Y block 3 deuce manifold for a top loader 4 speed with a 4th gear overdrive.
Looks like I've found a bell housing & the engine plate. Bought an overpriced clutch/brake pedal off fleabay but it looks like I'll have to fabricate most of the linage. Flywheel? (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/smilies/Doanno.gif) Ain't found a used one.
Plan is to do the manifold & 4 speed swap after the snow flies later this month or
sometime this winter. Gonna be a pain to do in my tight garage space.
At the rate I've been going I'm not even sure I'll get the 4 speed in before next spring. (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/smilies/shog.gif)
Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2018-10-03 16:15It's a shame how many classic car owners make stupid and careless mistakes.
I'm reasonably sure the the PO did little or nothing on building this car. I think he is even a bit older than me & farmed out everything to various shops. Wonder if he sold it off because he was dissatisfied with some of the lame crap that some idiots had done.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/smilies/OLD.gif)
No valve seals?! (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/smilies/facepalm.gif)
I really like that upholstery. I think once you have it done your way, that's gonna be a great car at a whole lot less time than building from scratch. I agree on the oversize shifter boot/housing.
I like your seat, mine is similar but black and red and really comfortable. I'm missing the adjuster knob too.
I knew what I was buying and how much work I needed to do. 57's in my price range aren't easy to find and I didn't really want a ranchero. I only bought this one because the body work and paint was done and it was a stick, if it had been an auto I would have walked away. It already had the discs and electric wipers and everything else was there but needed to be reworked one way or another. I traded an old top loader for a T85 OD.. Some time after I had done a lot of work I ran into the last owner and asked who did this and that which was wrong and he told me the guys name I didn't know. Later I found out he was a homeless guy who rides around on a bicycle with a little tool box tied on :003:
I live in the Portland Metro area and when ever I am working in the area ( Plumber) I will stop in and walk through Matthews Memory lane. I was just in there today, the inventory changes weekly and he just sold a 57 Fairlane last week. The owner is a stand up guy and owns all the cars outright. I had him appraise my ranchero and according to him there one of his favorite cars. The one you bought must not have been there very long because I don't remember seeing it there, I wish I knew you were interested in it I could have looked at it for you.
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2018-10-03 22:28I like your seat, mine is similar but black and red and really comfortable. I'm missing the adjuster knob too.
Yup, those seats are comfortable. It's nice to finally have a bench seat again. I'm not missing the adjuster knob any more, stole the one off the ratty '58 Ranchero. :003: Gonna swap outside door handles too since the '58s are better.
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2018-10-03 22:28I didn't really want a ranchero. I only bought this one because the body work and paint was done and it was a stick, if it had been an auto I would have walked away.
A '57 Ranchero is the only '57 I really wanted & have wanted one for many decades. Had one when I was a kid that was a POS that ended up wrecked.
There just was never one to be found here. I know of one other '57 Ranchero anywhere near here but have only seen it twice at our annual Show & Shine when tons of cars come out of the woodwork. Some quite rare. It's nice. Light blue with a 302 auto. It has fake spotlights & fake sidepipes. If I had it I'd pull that stuff off. The only other one I know of here is my ratty '58 with the Edsel nose & a @#!&*! Mopar slant six & automatic. :(
If I lived down in those 'lesser 48 states' I'd have the luxury to walk away from an automatic car. So I had to settle.
Since this thread has really gone off the rails ...
A couple hours ago I pulled up the center panel of the bed to see what's down there. This car does not have a normal Rancho/wagon gas tank & from underneath I can see some metal screws that don't appear to normal. Wasn't sure what they have done. Wanted to see if there was a spare tire well & if I could get to the fuel tank sender.
When the aftermarket gas gauge reads empty I fill up & the most gas I've ever gotten into it was about 13 gallons. This don't look like a 13 gallon tank!
I also have the idea of replacing the stock bed center panel with 1/8" diamond plate & putting a hinged door in it like the wagons have so I could put a spare tire & tools in it.
Been a long time since I've seen a '57 station wagon spare tire well so don't know if this tire well looks semi normal. Gotta see a pic of one.
Those metal screws I mentioned are around the forward curved area of the tire well.
Also discovered some real bad news. Left rear quarter panel has been damaged. Some chipped paint & looks like the lower part of off the panel was pushed in making a long crack in the 'bondo'. This really sucks. What's maybe worse is that I can't be sure that I didn't do this myself some time, maybe a couple weeks ago, by backing into something in the yard.
Never saw this before. (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/smilies/cry2.gif)
Couldn't get a good pic of the damage in the garage.
Tire well & 1/4 panel pic. Any comments on the tire well?
Tom, the 'spare wheel well' area in your Ranchero doesn't look original to me. it seems as if the bottom has been repaired, but repair doesnt look so bad. I think it's not as deep though as og and missing a large diam drain whole. my wagon tanks hold approx 18 glns.
Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2018-10-04 02:21
Tom, the 'spare wheel well' area in your Ranchero doesn't look original to me. it seems as if the bottom has been repaired, but repair doesnt look so bad. I think it's not as deep though as og and missing a large diam drain whole. my wagon tanks hold approx 18 glns.
Thanks, man! That does confirm my thoughts on it. From what little can be seen from underneath it's clear that that well was fabricated. Just from the top you can see that the corners are squared off instead of the rounded shapes that an original well would have.
It looked shallow from below but not from the top.
Measured & looks like it will hold a spare.
I expected to see that they had eliminated the well to make room for whatever tank that is. Sort of surprised that they even made that well for the spare.
Oh! it does have a big drain hole at the front of the well.
Pix of the fuel pump flange.
Quote from: 57chero on 2018-10-03 23:36
I live in the Portland Metro area and when ever I am working in the area ( Plumber) I will stop in and walk through Matthews Memory lane. I was just in there today, the inventory changes weekly and he just sold a 57 Fairlane last week. The owner is a stand up guy and owns all the cars outright. I had him appraise my ranchero and according to him there one of his favorite cars. The one you bought must not have been there very long because I don't remember seeing it there, I wish I knew you were interested in it I could have looked at it for you.
Dang! Missed your post. I wish I'd known that somebody was there that could look at it for me. The guy I dealt with never did answer 1 or 2 of my straight questions. Like, 'What on/in the car does
not work'? He did send me pix of the underside rust I'd requested. (It's a bit worse than what pix show)
I had read up on Matthews Memory Lane Motors beforehand. They had been in business a long time & seemed to have a good reputation.
Tom, I'm going tomorrow to where my Ranchero body is located to do some work on it and can take a photos of the "tire well" area if you like. I'd have to E-mail them to you.
Let me know,
John
Too bad the damage happened to the rear quarter, we have all done something like that at one time.
Thats not original but it looks ok. Mine was completely rusted out and so was the top of the tank because some idiot plugged up the drain hole some time in the past. I discovered that the first time I tried to fill the tank :005: No plan to put the spare there so I just cut it out and covered with flat sheet. Did the same to the top of the tank..
Quote from: KYBlueOval on 2018-10-04 05:32
Tom, I'm going tomorrow to where my Ranchero body is located to do some work on it and can take a photos of the "tire well" area if you like.
Thanks for the offer! But don't bother with it. I think Ive seen what I needed to see.
Just my 2 cents, but in my opinion, for buying a car unseen, you really could be in a LOT worse situation. That spare tire well, for example, may not be to oem specs, but from what I can see they made a pretty decent effort to get an acceptable repair done. It's not like we're the Chevy guys that have just about anything needed available. Sooooo many horror stories on the net about guys getting really burnt buying misrepresented cars.
Like Jim said, we've all done something like your rear quarter damage at some time or another, but I know that sure doesn't make you feel any better. Hell, I remember a story a few years ago (while you were gone) about a forum member who spent 10 years building his car then made the stupid mistake of reaching in to start his car after bypassing the neutral safety switch and ended up crunching the entire drivers side of his car on a building.
Oh, wait, that was me.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2018-10-07 10:54
Just my 2 cents, but in my opinion, for buying a car unseen, you really could be in a LOT worse situation. That spare tire well, for example, may not be to oem specs, but from what I can see they made a pretty decent effort to get an acceptable repair done.
I'm sure I could be worse off but there are quite a few things, some small & some that are pretty serious issues, that I wasn't made aware of. Rocker arm rust is a lot worse than I expected or was shown to me in the under body pix I ask for. On the driver's side the whole vertical inside section of the rocker is all there but is completely separated from the lower seam of the rocker. There's more but no use in whining about it here I guess.
I think whoever went went to the trouble to do that spare tire well did not have the center panel of the bed on hand & didn't know that it wasn't used on the Rancheros. Seems kinda funny.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2018-10-07 10:54
Like Jim said, we've all done something like your rear quarter damage at some time or another, but I know that sure doesn't make you feel any better.
No it doesn't make me feel any better no matter how it happened. But to be clear I'm not 100% sure I did that myself. If so it would been done weeks before I even noticed it. Looked all around the only possible object that I could have hit & found no evidence. Still... :(
What looks to be a big scratch on that lower rear 1/4 is actually something worse. It looks like a big section of thin 'bondo' that the lower portion of is pushed out away from the body. A big crack probably caused by the lower section of the panel being pushed in a little. Now I'm afraid that I'm gonna be driving along & have a bunch of it just falling off. Ain't had it outside for a better pic of that yet.
Damn, Rich! I didn't know you crunched the side of your car after all that work. I'm really sorry to hear that. What a bummer! A BIG bummer!
I found out that the neut safety switch on this @#$%! Lokar shifter ain't adjusted right & will start in reverse.
I'm not used to driving auto trans cars & have walked away leaving it in drive a few times. I've trained myself to always use the what was once called the emergency brake but haven't been doing on this car. I doesn't work very well, drove quite a ways with it on a couple times. (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/smilies/roll.gif) Thinking of adapting a different operating mechanism.
I have stories of a couple semi-catastrophes & near catastrophes about my not using the emergency brake when I should have.
Tom
I'm a little late getting into this conversation but I have to tell you that the cowl drain that you came up with is real slick. It will save a lot of guys that don't want to remove their front ends a lot of headaches. It still had to be no fun getting into those small areas on each side of the cowl. Your are right. "Ford didn't do us any favors with the original setup and that was responsible for the demise of our front floors."
Sorry to see what happened to the rear quarter panel and hope that you can repair it without getting into a huge project. Could the inner rocker panels have been deliberately left open a little when the outer rockers were replaced so the water and silt inside would drain out? You know that Henry didn't do us any favors in that area also because that area filled up with silt and blew out the inner and outer rockers. Just thinking. Jay
Quote from: Ecode70D on 2018-10-08 12:12
Tom, I'm a little late getting into this conversation but I have to tell you that the cowl drain that you came up with is real slick. ... It still had to be no fun getting into those small areas on each side of the cowl.
Thanks, Jay. It just seemed to be the easiest & most straight forward way to fix the problem. Getting at the hole between the fender & the outside of the cowl was easy enough, the reach up under the dash was harder & it would have been nice to have a helper to push the plastic elbow & tube in while I guided the tube onto the cowl drain itself. Couldn't pull it on to the metal of the cowl drain for lack of enough space for fingers, especially on the right side. And that big thick plastic tubing had a permanent bend in it from being on a roll.
Quote from: Ecode70D on 2018-10-08 12:12
Could the inner rocker panels have been deliberately left open a little when the outer rockers were replaced so the water and silt inside would drain out?
I don't think they deliberately left open. Just didn't even try to fix it. I think that panel not being attached makes for a weaker structure too. This certainly was not a body off job.
There were some fairly decent looking floor pan patches under the front footwell area that I'm assuming were done long ago & before this last body work & paint job.
I'm afraid much of this can not be properly repaired without doing some serious damage to the expensive paint job.
Check this stuff out. :(
Tom
If you are like me and do not have a lift, then you will have to lay on your back and cut out pieces, make new ones and weld them into place. You should be able to make those underside repairs without messing up the outside paint. I try not to do that kind of work in the winter though because the cement floor is real cold. Where you are, it has to be extra cold. How bad is the quarter panel damage? Can you see anything from inside the trunk?
I hope that my eyes are lying to me. From what I see, please don't tell me that they beat the old rocker panel in and covered it with the replacement panel.
JA
Quote from: Ecode70D on 2018-10-08 21:28
Tom
If you are like me and do not have a lift, then you will have to lay on your back and cut out pieces, make new ones and weld them into place.
Jay, I don't have the equipment or enough skill to properly weld that sheet metal. I've done it before many decades ago with a borrowed wire feed welder but it wasn't overhead welding and it looked pretty crappy.
It's a Ranchero, no trunk. :002: I didn't remove the panel in the rear inside of the bed to look, doesn't seem necessary as there is not an actual dent in anything. Just got pushed in a little but not enough to make a dent, just a little flexing.
I'd probably have to fabricate the pieces to repair that front body mount area. Shipping a floor pan part to here would be cost prohibitive.
I think if I make the parts at least some, but not all, of the welding around that front body mount can be done from above.
Garage space is a real big problem now. There is none. With the Ranchero in the garage you have to walk sideways in some places down one side & you can't even fit on the other side.
I've boxed myself into a corner with all the bikes, parts, tools, etc.
And, yeah that concrete floor is damn cold. Isn't it always? Seems like over the years it's also got harder & gravity in that area has increased quite a bit. I assume that people know that
gravity is stronger in some places than in others. Under my bed is another area where it's now sometimes much stronger than it used to be.
I see what you mean about beating the old rocker panel in and covering it with a replacement. Not sure. Need to do a lot more inspection of that & other places underside. Been feelin' kinda sickly for about a week now so nothin' is gettin' done. (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/smilies/shog.gif)
Some of the repair panels made back in the day were designed to be put over existing panels. Certainly not the proper way to do it, but the panels were made to repair contemporary cars, not classics. I suspected my fender caps were of that variety.
The pics your showing are telling me the mentioned dealer doesn't have a whole lot of integrity. That really sucks. Definetly a car that needed to be looked at prior to purchase. Certainly not all that bad, but not rust free if that's how it was presented. I don't understand why people put expensive paint jobs on, and overlook repairs that should be done prior to paint.
Hope you get to feeling better.
Now these pics make me want to fly over and find that body guy and punch him ****???.... no wait -....make him pull all the wrong work he has done and watch him for several weeks repairing all that stuff for free !
any dealer with a bit of a sense for classic cars should have seen those previous repairs and rust in body mount.
Tom if you are interested in it I will dig out the pics in my own topic, where I repaired the front body mount from above ( of course you would have to cut and replace part of the floorboards, which I had to do anyways).
You might even want to leave all that stuff alone and drive as is.
Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2018-10-09 03:13
You might even want to leave all that stuff alone and drive as is.
What my friend Guenter just said. Just spray or paint some drain oil on the rusted pieces under the car and drive it. That slows down the rusting process. I doubt very much that you will deliberately be driving that car in the rain and snow. The weather here is changing and laying on the floor is the last thing on my mind right now.
Quote from: Tom S on 2018-10-08 22:36
doesn't seem necessary as there is not an actual dent in anything. Just got pushed in a little but not enough to make a dent, just a little flexing.
I see what you mean about beating the old rocker panel in and covering it with a replacement. Not sure. Need to do a lot more inspection of that & other places underside. Been feelin' kinda sickly for about a week now so nothin' is gettin' done. (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/smilies/shog.gif)
No actual dent is a good thing. It could be worse. Right now you should work on getting better an feeling well again.Jay
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2018-10-08 23:08The pics your showing are telling me the mentioned dealer doesn't have a whole lot of integrity.
I think I've mentioned before that I did research the dealer fairly well before ever contacting them. They have been in business a very long time, since maybe the late 1960s, not sure now. In any case they have a very good rep. The guy I dealt with there had the car put on their lift & sent me the underbody rust pix just as I had requested. He even pointed out that the rusted area around that front right body mount was likely to be of most concern.
The car was not presented as rust free.
So I wouldn't feel right about slamming the dealer too hard.
Knowing that there was some rust I made an offer that was a couple grand less than the asking price. Was a bit surprised when it was accepted without a counter offer.
Of course seeing pix is quite different than seeing things in person. He did answer
most of my questions but I doubt that he knew of several things that weren't quite right.
The dealership owned the car outright. They were dealing with a guy that handled the sale to them for the PO. They ask the 'handler' a couple questions for me but I could see that the handler's answers were completely wrong.
Hey, I knew I was buying a car from a dealer & a salesman that wanted to make a sale. I took the gamble since it was something I had wanted for decades, had never been able to find, had desired upgrades like disk brakes, the FE & the price and proximity to here were favorable.
Besides the one '57 Ranchero I've heard of that has been someone's ongoing long term project there is only mine & one other running '57 Ranchero anywhere within our limited road system. There is also my ragged out '58 with the Edsel nose & the %#@! slant six automatic.
Now, with the help & advice of the fine helpful & knowledgeable people on this board, I just need to try to make this a better car without breaking the bank.
Guenter, yes! I would very much like to see those pix! Thanks! (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/smilies/bow.gif)
Or maybe the link to your topic would work? It's not always easy to find the right topic with a search, so ....
Fixin' the front body mount from above was what I figured I'd have to do. Getting at the vertical area where it is welded to half-loose inside rocker panel will be tricky. And there's no tellin' how much stuff us to rusted to weld to.
'Drive as is' & try to fix some of the niggling or worse stuff as I go along is sort of the plan for now. Just gotta try to move things ahead as best I can.
Thanks again! (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/smilies/THUMB.gif)
Quote from: Ecode70D on 2018-10-09 07:12What my friend Guenter just said. Just spray or paint some drain oil on the rusted pieces under the car and drive it. That slows down the rusting process.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/smilies/THUMB.gif) Yup, see my last post.
I had been thinking of oiling some of those rusty areas. But I don't know if I'd want to oil up some places that I hope to get welded on at some point, might be hard to get it cleaned up enough to weld on.
Don't know if any of you have seen this. Ran across it years ago in a thread that I think was titled "Death by Brake Clean".
Was about the serious danger of welding on something that had just been cleaned with brake clean or any product that contained a certain chemical. Very scary!
http://www.brewracingframes.com/safety-alert-brake-cleaner--phosgene-gas.html
Tom, must have missed your latest posts on your topic.
this is on page 9 where I started to remove frt pssgr floor and cleaned out the body mount. it shows how you could get access to those areas and replace/repair what's rusted out. also a few pages earlier I am dealing with the drvr side. hope this helps.
http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=6705.120 (http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=6705.120)
since i've read this post i had to check to c where my drains were. and sure enough there gone, but now i have a question, i've had my car for 7 to 10 years and never noticed any water on the floor after washing, so now i haveta check to c if I do get any water, in fact now i'll have to check to c just whats involved to fix it, and I thought i was done
Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2019-04-05 06:08
Tom, must have missed your latest posts on your topic.
this is on page 9 where I started to remove frt pssgr floor and cleaned out the body mount. it shows how you could get access to those areas and replace/repair what's rusted out. also a few pages earlier I am dealing with the drvr side. hope this helps.
http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=6705.120 (http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=6705.120)
Thanks a bunch, Gunth! :001:
Quote from: geraldchainsaw on 2019-04-05 17:56
... now i'll have to check to c just whats involved to fix it ...
Not to hard to this way --> http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=3895.msg65607#msg65607
ok, now i can add my 2 cents worth. checked out the drain tubes in the cowl, had the wife pour a gal of water just to c what would happen, the water flows great, in fact so good that it pours right out the side inner fender panel, only dribbles a couple of drops so to me its no big deal, carpet not wet enough to worry about, the sheet mtl dosen't show any rust, the car has never been in the rain, kept in the garage, only water it sees is when i wash it, so the heck with it i'm not going to fix it, it'll last more years then i have left any way
We see a lot of cars at Carlisle that flippers threw some bondo and fresh paint at.
They never replace chrome or emblems, just paint and jack up the prices.
Ron.