Guys,
My crankshaft pulley is .20" off from lining up with the water pump pulley. I have looked and can't seem to locate one,.35 is the smallest in Jegs, and Summit. Any ideas? By the way my 351w is a 69' which means it is a 3 bolt Harmonic balancer.
Thanks,
Tim :unitedstates:
Can I just use flat washers?
Tim :unitedstates:
Quote from: 57 Ford Kustom on 2013-02-11 16:19Can I just use flat washers?
Your water pump pulley is .2?
behind the crankshaft pulley? If so I guess you could try washers but I have had things wobble when trying to space them with washers. Be pretty easy to check & see that though.
A spacer would be better. A 1/4" aluminum spacer would only put it off .05". Might be ok that way, might not. Also might depend on how good your .2 measurement was.
A '69 351W?. (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/smilies/THUMB.gif) That & the 1970 ones are the good ones. More compression.
If the .20 is accurate, a 3/16 (.1875) spacer would only put it out by .0125. Twelve thousands should be ok.
Tom, and Rich,
Thanks for the reply, I was beginning to think I was the dumbest person on this site! It is my crank pulley that is .2" behind the water pump pulley.I used a straight edge off the water pump pulley and used a micrometer to make the measurement (the one I use to reload my ammo). I could only find one on summit, and jegs that are .35", Any ideas where I could get a smaller one?
Thanks
Tim :unitedstates:
Tom,
It is pretty sweet! My Dad had it laying around his garage. I just put a performer plus cam in it, a performer intake, and my rebuilt Auto lite 4100. I need a carb spacer though, because the linkage hits the intake.
quote:"I could only find one on summit, and jegs that are .35", Any ideas where I could get a smaller one?"
Tim..not sure what you are finding..a .35 thick spacer?
I would think with some careful layout you could make a spacer out of 3/16 aluminum plate with a minimum of hand power tools. If you have a bandsaw even easier. Lay it out with dykem, and a compass (metal point, not pencil). I've known toolmakers that could hold .001 working to layout lines on steel rule dyes. Keep a little off the lines with the saw, and file or sand to finish.
Rich,
Yes, the ones listed on those sites are .35" that would throw me the other way .15". I had never thought about the aluminum plate. Great idea :003:!
Thanks,
Tim :unitedstates:
Tim:
If you have a lathe, or know someone who does, the .35 thick spacer could be cut down to .20 very easily.
John
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2013-02-12 20:02... spacer ... 3/16 aluminum plate ... Lay it out with dykem, and a compass (metal point, not pencil). I've known toolmakers that could hold .001 working to layout lines on steel rule dyes. Keep a little off the lines with the saw, and file or sand to finish.
Rich, you?re right 3/16" would work better. But I don't have any 3/16" around. (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/TomIII/smilies/lol.gif)
Since it is the crank pulley it's onna be a little harder to make than a water pump spacer because of the bigger center hole. Probably gonna need a hole saw for that.
A much easier way to lay out the pattern is to just press a piece of paper against the mounting side of the pulley & trace the hole locations & such. You know, rub the side of a # 2 pencil lead over the holes. In fact, I have found that a dirty hand works just as well if not better. : )
I think I would make the large center hole, sans pattern, in the 3/16" first. Then tape the pattern in place over that to mark the bolt holes & diameter. It doesn?t have to be perfect by any means, just fit & be close to center & *mostly* round. : ) The tiny amount of weight of the 3/16" that close to the crank centerline is not going to cause an imbalance if it's not dead perfect .
i have a 69 351 as well. i got a new pully set through summit from march performance. you could give either march or summit a call. I called summit because I couldn't find what I needed and they were able to help quickly.
I was fine with a edelbrock water pump that was originally on the car. But, then I purchased a Summit hi volume water pump to replace it, and that's why I ran into this problem. Thanks, I will give them a call.
Thanks,
Tim :unitedstates:
I changed out my no-name remanufactured water pump for a Milodon aluminum water pump and nothing lined up correctly. Water pump pulley shims are fairly common. I would consider getting the .035" shim and have it surface ground to the required thickness.
If Edelbrock won't rebuild their water pump, for a up charge, you can send your water pump to the remanufacturer and get it back. I have done this on 'numbers matching' rebuilds. Cardone will do it. I think it cost an extra $10.00 to get my core back.
Thanks Guys for the responses! I think I will do that Gasman, finding a machine shop around here is scarcer than hens teeth!
Thanks,
Tim :unitedstates:
At least that's one thing nice about being in the outskirts of Detroit, lots of shops with little or nothing to do. Lots of talent but not much work.
Quote from: 57 Ford Kustom on 2013-02-13 15:44
I was fine with a edelbrock water pump that was originally on the car. But, then ...
"If it ain't broke ..... ":naughty: