Just figured I'd let the cat out of the bag now, concerning the color of my Custom. Since the car will ultimately be 312 powered again, and since it will be built in the Jr Stocker drag image, and since it will be drag raced, I wasnt really interested in original. I considered some original colors at first, but just couldnt get excited about them, even white. In the meantime, I took my 4 year old, Nick, to the drags for Nostalgia Weekend, and he loved it. Wheb we got home, I show him the pictures and video of my last 57. He says "Lets paint the 57 yellow", so.....here it is, at least the cowl and forward jambs. I still have to finish the doors, fenders and hood, but seeing this made me want to finish it a little bit quicker than I was working. Check out the pics.
Good stuff!
Nice!
I like it..yeller's always been one of my favorites.
James I like it too but that yellow will give every bug in the area fits! How will you ever keep the love bugs off it?
:003:
looking good
Hadnt thought about that Bill...I guess I'll just have to park it for the couple weeks they're in town, lol. Wash it immediately after driving it, I guess..Those things are a pain, man....seriously.
First time I ran into love bugs was when stationed in Brunswick, GA. I had no idea what the heck was going on! And "pain" doesn't even come close to describing them. I put them into one of those "you haven't been there until" list of things....
Looks good James, that Cleveland looks pretty good too.
Thank you Glen...Still want to get my 312 done though...maybe this winter.
don't know about those love bugs however had a yellow truck and the hornets would gather on in as if it had been slathered with bacon drippings. Still love yellow.
Zap- :unitedstates:
I have decided that I will never buy another drop of acrylic enamel paint. Ever. I used urethane on the car, and bought some enamel to do my interior mouldings and dash. I have now sanded off once, and tomorrow will be twice the enamel from my dash. I have been spraying enamel for over 25 years, and never had any trouble with it. The metallic med gray I got for the dash has separated, crazed, everything besides run that enamel paint can do. The urethane on my car is the first time I have ever sprayed it, and so far, I love it. When cured out, it feels like ceramic glaze, it is so slick. I love the stuff, it lays on like silk. I promise, no more enamel, ever again. Yeap, getting ready to order a quart of gray metallic urethane for my interior sheetmetal... Now I need to pick up some more cartridges for my respirator, probably should consider buying a fresh air system if I spray more than one or two of these, stuff is potent even through my high buck respirator.
I have come to the conclusion that every paint job is flawed...you just have to learn how to fix it. In your case it sounds more like maybe there is something wrong with the paint. Don't swear off enamel just yet. If you squint real hard and read labels, urethane IS an enamel. I keep reading about water born. If I was to paint another car, I think I will make the change to water.
The articles in the mags make the waterborn system sound easy
The water based paints are thinner so prep work has to be even better. Also with the finish layers being thinner there is less material to sand and polish any flaws. It also requires more coats.
and different venting and drying technique. Fans to move the air around evenly etc.
Street Rodder did an article on the water base paint before and during the build of their "Rod Tour" 40 Ford. I'm sticking with the urethanes for the forseable future, single stage for solids and base/clear for the metalics and pearls.
Not interested in water based paints at all. From everything I have seen of them, they are too chalky and do not last long enough in the harsh sun we have here in South Mississippi. As long as I can get real paint, I'm not using watercolors...
What brand of paint are you using James, I noticed that you were ordering it?
Glen, I usually use the Kirkers brand from Smart Shoppersinc.com, but this time, I just needed a quart, and they have a limited numbre of base colors in quarts, so I ordered it from Summit. The urethane that Summit Racing sells is Kirkers with a Summit label on it, so its all the same stuff. It is really good paint, gets a bad rap from the body shop guys that think that 10000 is an acceptable price to paint your car. I dont think so, not with 8 kids to take care of, lol. OI buy from either Smart Shoppers or Summit, and have never been disappointed. Dad has Kirker urethane on his Falcon convertable, and will have it on his `57 Fairlane soon. He is painting it Raven black with black and maroon interior. The seats already are done, look good. He is about 50% done with the body work, lots of blocking left to go for him. Dont let anybody tell you this paint is crap, because for the most part, they've like;y never tried it. We have, and it goes on nice, flows out well, and shines like a new penny. Plus, it is very affordable. I bought two gallons of the competition yellow (70 Boss 302 Grabber yellow) plus activator, and it was less than $225 shipped to my door. I love the stuff. Give it a try. They have the hot rod black urethane too, Glen, flat finish.
Have you used any of their high build urethane primers? That stuff is outrageous from the name paint brands. It would be nice to have an alternative. Mark
Now that sounds like a great deal James! I'll check it out. I have been using PPG shopline primer and like it, but it is around $150 a gal with the activator.
That is the primer I used too. I found that Smart Shoppers and Summit have the urethane primer too. And its a lot less than shopline, about 85 per gallo. And 20 for the activator.
Quote from: glen b henderson Now that sounds like a great deal James! I'll check it out. I have been using PPG shopline primer and like it, but it is around $150 a gal with the activator.
/quote]
Glen... Can I get that primer I white? How long will a portion keep after it is activated?
Thanks Jay
Jay...I may be wrong, but I believe paints/primers can only be reduced without affecting shelf life...anything with an activator/catalyst will have a short window (hours) depending on the product. The window of time is usually specified on the product sheets and usually available on-line from the distributors/manufacturers
Thanks Rich
My progress is so slow that I may have to primer one or two panels at a time. I'm glad that all of my major body work and mechanical work is all done . Block sanding never ends. I would like to get the car registered and start driving it this summer even if it is in just primer. I'm leaning more toward these new primers because I understand that they are not porous like the old stuff.
Jay
Jay, anything urethane has about a 2 hour pot life once you ad d the activator. The only primers you can reduce and keep is lacquer based primers. Even the Enamel type primers will gel after a while once mixed. Still, if you have everything ready to go, you wont have much waste, if any.
James
Actually the only type of primer I have ever used is lacquer and have never had a problem with it. Looks like it is time to start thinking about the new stuff if I want to drive the car for a while before I paint it. I realize that the water will eventually go through the lacquer primer and the panels will start to rust. It is my understanding that the new primers will seal/protect the body. This is going to be a whole new education for me.
I suppose the next thing is that I'll have to get some sort of a new mask also. Any recommendations? Jay
Jay, I am fairly sure that the PPG shopline is available in white, but I have never used it. I always use black epoxy for the base and then gray highbuild for follow on coats. As stated above once you mix, you have to use it. I pick up some mixing cups and just mix what I think I will need. It is a good idea too have a few small parts ready just in case you have some left over, it want take long to hang and spray them with the leftover primer.
You can extend the pot life some by putting the gun or pot in the refrigerator. I have had it mixed and ready to shoot for up to four hours after I caused a delay by being dumb! Just let it warm up for 15 minutes defore spraying. Nothing bad if it don't warm a little, just a scoash thicker.....
[quote author=Ford Blue blood You can extend the pot life some by putting the gun or pot in the refrigerator. I have had it mixed and ready to shoot for up to four hours after I caused a delay by being dumb! Just let it warm up for 15 minutes defore spraying. Nothing bad if it don't warm a little, just a scoash thicker.....
[/quote]
Quote from: glen b henderson It is a good idea too have a few small parts ready just in case you have some left over, it want take long to hang and spray them with the leftover primer./quote]
Bill..That's exactly the reason that I keep a refrigerator in the shop for paints and the spray gun..
Glen That's smart advice having some extra pieces to use up the mixed primer.
Now that I'm about to get into this new stuff, I need to know if there is a special resperator that you use for this modern paint. A filter number would help. Jay
Sorry about screwing up the quote in my previous note. Some day I'll get it right. I just keep on trying.
BELIEVE ME I CAN SPRAY AND BUILD CARS BETTER THAN I DO QUOTES.
I have been using the 3m organic vapor masks, but am thinking about investing in a fresh air system of some kind. I change these masks out whenever I pray anyway, unless its just lacquer primer, but urethane stuff, I only use them once. I dont trust them much longer than that. They arent terribly expensive, but not meant to be used once and discarded. However, the isocyanates in urethane is pretty deadly stuff, and I dont want to take chances. That is the main reason I would like to invest in a decent hobbyist fresh air system from like Eastwood or something like that.
Quote from: JPotter57 on 2013-03-18 20:38
I have been using the 3m organic vapor masks, but am thinking about investing in a fresh air system of some kind.
James
Is that 3M organic vapor mask some sort of a disposable unit or one with the screw in filters that look like a hockey puck? I have heard about how dangerous those isocyanates are. Good thing that this will be my last car that I'm going to paint.
If you are going to be doing more paint jobs, it would be a good idea to invest in a fresh air system.
Jay
The key to keeping the 3M mask good is to bag it up after it has dried out. They are good for a year if not left out. My supplier also has one time use mask for about $19, that is less then the replacement filters for the 3m mask. I will get the part number and manufacturer and post it when I get more paint for the Edsel.
James a poopy suit and mask should give you all the protection you need from a hobbiest stand point. Even if you paint one a year you will still not collect enough "stuff" to do any harm. Just have to make sure you use it, even when priming stuff outdoors....
I use a 3M 6900 full face mask with 6001 cartridges and hooded Tyvek suits. The full face is a little harder to see but keeps stuff out of my eyes and glasses. Fumes and mist ruin my glasses everytime! Tyvek may be overkill but suites are cheap, breathable, lint free, cheaper than clothes, and I use the hooded ones to help seal up the mask. I also use PPG non-isocyanates paints. X2 FBB on bagging the mask to prolong the life of filters.
Since everyone is putting in their two cents about paint, I have used some of PPG's Shopline products (PPG's second line of painting products). I use Shopline Wax Removed, reducer for cleanup, primers and topcoats for small parts, interior, frame and running gear. When it comes to the shiny side, I go with PPG's first line products all the way. After spending thousands of hours and thousands of dollars in media blasting, hand cleaning, replacement metal, metal working, blocking, filler and blocking, build primer and blocking, sealer and blocking, base coat and blocking, clear coat and blocking, I'm not interested in saving fifty bucks a gallon on three or four gallons of paint. I'm not that good nor lucky. I want to know where my materials come from and confirm the date of manufacture codes on the can. I want a personal relationship with my supplier. If a failure happens that is product related, I want to know where I can get my hands on my supplier. More than once, the relationship with my supplier has saved me thousands.
Thats cool Gasman...however, I'm not building a showcar, just a fun driver. I dont really have the time or money for that, and really count myself fortunate to have a wife that understands or at least tolerates my expensive hobby. With 4 boys in boyscouts and robotics, plus a pair of teenagers beginning to drive, my budget is nearly tapped, lol. Hence, this being the 6th year I have owned the Custom, and its just now beginning to get paint....
I'M with you James, you can buy a lot of go fast stuff for what one of those pretty paint jobs cost, that is why I painted the Falcon with $15 a qt Tractor Supply paint. Different strokes for different folks. I admire the folks that spend thousands on a paint job but I don't want to be afraid of a scratch or bird s==ting on my paint job. The 57 will most likely get a few coats of Hot Rod Black.
"I use a 3M 6900 full face mask with 6001 cartridges and hooded Tyvek suits. The full face is a little harder to see but keeps stuff out of my eyes and glasses. Fumes and mist ruin my glasses everytime! Tyvek may be overkill but suites are cheap, breathable, lint free, cheaper than clothes, and I use the hooded ones to help seal up the mask. I also use PPG non-isocyanates paints. X2 FBB on bagging the mask to prolong the life of filters.
, metal working, blocking, filler and blocking, build primer and blocking, sealer and blocking, base coat and blocking, clear coat and blocking."
Gary
Thanks for the information on the masks and the cartridge number.
Somehow I get the impression that you are not that crazy about block sanding. I have been known to say once in a while.. "You don't know how I fell unless you have walked in my shoes"
Well obviously you've been there and done that.
Did you ever work real hard block sanding a panel to get it absolutely right, before going in for lunch, and when you come back you find a spot that you missed?
Jay