So how do you bring yourself to start disassembly on a good running, drivable, street legal survivor? The engine has never been out of the car, All original sheet metal. I have a new complete rust free front end to put it on it this winter, just having a hard time making myself remove the first bolt.
Take out the 4 hood bolts and remove the hood, looks like you have done something, and will motivate you to keep going. Once you start it is hard to stop!
This is what I got to put on it.
Just open up the tool box and dig in. I decided to do that yesterday morning and by this morning I'm on my way.
The hardest part of any job is, getting off the couch. One of the things I was taught early when I built an airplane was, never consider it as building an airplane. Consider it as building a part. One part, totally exempt from being an airplane. Once that part is completed, put it on a shelf and start another part. Eventually you'll run out of parts and then you can assemble an airplane with the parts you have built previously. Look at the car the same way. Don't tackle everything or even consider anything other than the one part you are working on. If it's installing new A-Frame bushings don't be distracted with rust in the rear quarters. Don't even look at that rust. Keep your focus on one thing at a time. That way the car isn't dismantled all over the garage and you won't feel overwhelmed.
Perfect Jim, I forgot about the couch part :003:
Take lots of pictures as you take it apart, you will be able to look at them if you forget how something was later. plastic bag and tag parts as you go. It's nice to have a winter project, a reason to get out of the house when it's cold and nasty all winter.
Set A Deadline!
The best way to get a project finished is to find an event that you really want to take the car to. Pick something like Power Tour, Columbus Shoutout, Byron, ILL, or Lone Star Round Up. You can even pick a big local car show, but pick something and stick to it.
Do what ever it takes to get that car to that event no matter what. Even if it has a few loose ends make it to the event!
That's what I do. I do loose a bunch of sleep and spend a bunch of money towards the deadline, but at least my car makes it to the show, race, or event, and then I'm ahead the rest of the year.
Thanks guys. I am really wanting to keep the car as drivable as possible, at least during the summer. Hoping to get the fenders on it this winter. My big thing is that once I start Im gonna want it done. I like being able to tell people that it is all original. What Jim said really hits home on that point. First I gotta fill some holes in the fenders as they came off a Ranchero. I know once I bring myself to take out the first bolt it will be easier from there.
Like Mark has said, you can't take too many pictures during stripdown, take several of the same area from different angles and keep any screws/clips etc in those freezer bags, some have a white panel on them so you can write where the screws are from in permenant marker pen. If you're really keen you can write the relevant photograph number on the bag when you've downloaded them.
4thgen, there is something to be said for keeping it all original, or in its original condition. While I truly admire the full resto's or the highly modified, especially when built from a basket case, I am really enjoying the fact that mine is a true survivor from the era, complete with all it's little nicks and bruises.
Changing the front clip on yours should be a relatively straightforward procedure. Once you get started you'll be suprised how quickly it will progress. Get some mates around to give you a hand, have a couple of beers along the way and it becomes a social occasion as well as achieving steps towards your goal.
one way to do it since you have another front clip.
Cherry the donor one ,keep driving the car as is. Once you
see the front clip all done in primer ready to go. You will be wanting
the rest of the car to look that good. And you will "only" have to everything
but the front end.
And post pictures here so we can help keep you motivated. :001:
Seeing how you are from Ohio, the car has been in the rust belt. I found something that works well on the midwestern rust, I would soak the areas I plan to dismantle a day or two in advance, I use PB blaster. Then a good sharp phillips, a little wrap on the handle, stuff comes right apart. Works great on bolts, screws, whatever. Mark
Having trouble getting started? Teardown isn't a problem, it doesn't cost much. I can gut a 57 Ford in a couple of days, but putting it back together.... now that takes years, and a whole lotta money . Good luck , it will happen, and if you want to keep it as original as you can, then do that, Only do what you feel needs attention, but don't skimp on the safety items.
Drove it to work today, filled the tank, now parked in the garage awaiting new sheet metal. I've never done any body work so as soon as my cousin is done the restoration on his 67 GTO my fenders will be next. just hoping to have them on and in primer by spring! Going to learn a lot, I know it will be worth it, will post pics as soon as we get started. Thanks for all of the advice. Cant believe I still got compliments today at the gas station on my rusty old hunk!
Quote from: Mark on 2013-10-16 20:44
Take lots of pictures as you take it apart, you will be able to look at them if you forget how something was later. plastic bag and tag parts as you go. It's nice to have a winter project, a reason to get out of the house when it's cold and nasty all winter.
I definitely agree! Take lots of pictures, you will appreciate all of them later at some point!
Is that all you need to do is the front sheet metal? How is the rest of the body? Some pictures of the car would be nice. We like pictures
Needs lower quarters and rockers, I got a set of rockers but they don't go back do the "dog leg" just in front the rear wheel. One small hole in the drivers floor pan where your foot rests on the gas pedal. All in all its not bad. Dad did me a huge favor by parking it in the garage in 1979. I drug it out in 1999 and got it back on the road. Mainly just been driving it since.
"rusty old hunk'' better than jelly bean car any day. I was going uptown about 8:00 am today.
there was a gentleman in his late 70s /80s hobbling down the side walk. He stopped in his tracks
big smile on his face and just watched me go by. I looked in the mirror and he had turned around
to keep looking.
I had thought about going back to see if he wanted a ride. Wish I would have, probably
had some good stories... ( hi-jack over)
Quote from: 4thgen57 on 2013-10-20 18:13
Needs lower quarters and rockers, I got a set of rockers but they don't go back do the "dog leg" just in front the rear wheel. One small hole in the drivers floor pan where your foot rests on the gas pedal. All in all its not bad. Dad did me a huge favor by parking it in the garage in 1979. I drug it out in 1999 and got it back on the road. Mainly just been driving it since.
4thgen
That's not so bad. Buy the replacement panels now or as you can afford them. I wouldn't replace the complete panels. I would just cut out what is rotted and keep as much original metal as possible.
Sit down and have a good talk with your cousin about how you and he are going to approach it.
Are you going to butt weld it? (That's the best way)
Overlap weld it?
Or bond it with some of the new compounds?
It is still possible to do a little at a time and keep on driving it.
Its really not that bad. Want to get the front clip on this winter and hopefully have my lower quarters for next winter.
That looks like "honest rust", rust caused by a car being driven rather than rust caused by poor previous restoration attempts, I'll stick my neck out and say that it shouldn't be hiding too many nasty surprises. Ask around about who is best to use for replacement panels. My rockers came from a "known" company and the profile was wrong, the concave profile running along the panel was way too shallow, but the headlight surrounds and fender peak repair panels (from the same place were very good. For my rear wheel arches I got hold of some New Old Stock 1960's manufactured repair panels and they were great.
Butt welding the repair panels is the way to go, second to that is to use a joggling tool to step the edge of the new panle behind the old. Whichever way you go make sure you clean & paint the areas you can't see to make sure it lasts.
Quote from: Limey57 on 2013-10-25 03:24
Butt welding the repair panels is the way to go, second to that is to use a joggling tool to step the edge of the new panle behind the old. Whichever way you go make sure you clean & paint the areas you can't see to make sure it lasts.
I agree with Gary 100% . Somehow you have to get behind the panel and seal the repair. The problems start from inside. I have seen that happen countless times in the 50+ years that I have been doing body work.
It sure seems like a good solid car! At some point I will post pictures of mine before I started... I ordered a frame from American Chassis because mine being form Ontario land of the salt trucks, rotted away.
Quote from: hotroddonnie on 2013-10-26 20:16
It sure seems like a good solid car! At some point I will post pictures of mine before I started... I ordered a frame from American Chassis because mine being form Ontario land of the salt trucks, rotted away.
Hotroddonnie
At least the front section of the frame was saved. Next time you see those parts, they'll be in Jeff's car.
True, he is a collector of 57 Ford parts.