Has anyone ever figured out the reason why the 57 Fords had that strange looking tapered drive shaft? Over the years whenever I did an alteration to one, I always used a straight tube one.
Jay. I have no idea why, the one on mine I had custom made. One thing I do know is guys love that type of drive shaft for custom made headers for their hotrods.
I asked the guy that has the drive shaft shop when I had mine balanced if he knew the reasoning behind it and he had no idea. He sad if he ever built a rat rod he would like use one just because they are so unique.
If I'm not mistaken the headers are called Lakers. One guy that would know for sure hasn't commented yet but if I know him well he soon will. HRD
Hot Rod guys use '36 Ford torque tubes as collectors. Tapered tube. Look cool.
NOW for question number two....
When they first came out in late 56 and into 57, I remember driving in new 57 Fords. The tapered 57 drive shaft always had a distinct ringing sound to them while going through first and second. It would gradually go away after you got up to speed in third. Does anyone remember that? I don't remember that sound in 57's with automatic transmission.
I also remember driving new 58 Ford Custom State Police cars with the new FE and 3 speed stick. The drive shaft was not tapered and there was no ringing sound.
The tapered drive shaft was for ground clearance . The new ford for 57 was lower than 56 and with the 14 inch wheels and they thought a straight drive shaft would hit something .
I had a thought when I needed drive shaft work done. I asked the guy about possibly using something like a CV aluminum shaft and the guy cracked up laughing. Then he showed me a pile of scrap shafts from CV's and Vans. These things were ripped apart on the ends, in the middle and everywhere else you can think of, they looked like beer cans torn in half and the wall thickness was about the same. He builds numerous relacement ones every week. I'm sure the hipo aftermarket ones are much stronger but I wouldn't give 2 cents for an OEM..
Quote from: dgasman on 2014-01-23 11:00
The tapered drive shaft was for ground clearance . The new ford for 57 was lower than 56 and with the 14 inch wheels and they thought a straight drive shaft would hit something .
dgasman... That sounds like very good deductive reasoning. When the 58's came out they probably just gave up on the idea of tapered shafts, and went back to using the 57 floor in the 58's and straight d. shafts... I have done a lot floor swapping over the years between 57 and 58 and the only difference I ever found was the mount/tab in the trunk floor for the bumper jack.
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2014-01-23 11:07
I had a thought when I needed drive shaft work done. I asked the guy about possibly using something like a CV aluminum shaft and the guy cracked up laughing. Then he showed me a pile of scrap shafts from CV's and Vans. These things were ripped apart on the ends, in the middle and everywhere else you can think of, they looked like beer cans torn in half and the wall thickness was about the same. He builds numerous relacement ones every week. I'm sure the hipo aftermarket ones are much stronger but I wouldn't give 2 cents for an OEM..
Thank you Jim
As you already know, I'm in the process of doing a drive shaft for my car. I did toy with the idea of the aluminum shaft but decided to stay with a non tapered steel one. After reading what you just posted, I'm glad that I made that decision. Jay
Quote from: Ecode70D on 2014-01-23 12:10
Thank you Jim
As you already know, I'm in the process of doing a drive shaft for my car. I did toy with the idea of the aluminum shaft but decided to stay with a non tapered steel one. After reading what you just posted, I'm glad that I made that decision. Jay
I'm just on my lunch break from working on mine today. I don't think an aluminum one would be a bad idea if you had it custom made using better material the the OEM type. I just didn't want to spend that much for my low performance car..
I had most of it right. But knew I had some print for the tapered drive shaft.
Why are my pics upside down? I will start taking them standing on my head I guess :burnout:
The 1999-2005 Crown-vic cop cars have an aluminum driveshaft that's a bolt in, plus there balanced to 130 mph.
They also come with 1330 u-joints which is an upgrade from the smaller 1310's.
Sprint cup cars use DOM aluminum tubing for there driveshaft material and there good for up to 1000hp.
In a hi-performance build theres no way I would use the stock driveshaft.
I was reading some Ford PR stuff over on 57ford.com, what Dgasman says is correct, it was for the low chassis. Mark
Quote from: Frankenstein57 on 2014-01-23 19:44
I was reading some Ford PR stuff over on 57ford.com, what Dgasman says is correct, it was for the low chassis. Mark
Mark ... I have wondered about that for years. Jay
Quote from: rmk57 on 2014-01-23 17:58
The 1999-2005 Crown-vic cop cars have an aluminum driveshaft that's a bolt in, plus there balanced to 130 mph.
They also come with 1330 u-joints which is an upgrade from the smaller 1310's.
Sprint cup cars use DOM aluminum tubing for there driveshaft material and there good for up to 1000hp.
In a hi-performance build theres no way I would use the stock driveshaft.
I can only guess the cop cars use a heaver wall construction. But from the ones I saw at the shop I wouldn't use them in a 60 Falcon :003: I have a stock 292 so the steel drive shaft works fine..
I took my alum. Crown vic. drive shaft to get new joints and the guy said where did you get a drive shaft that has POLICE lettered on it? I told him DONUT shop!
I forgot to add that the cop car driveshafts would only work in short wheelbase 57's.
Quote from: rmk57 on 2014-01-23 22:27
I forgot to add that the cop car driveshafts would only work in short wheelbase 57's.
RMK57 That's good to know. I have the short wheelbase car.. I'm pretty sure that there is one in a junk yard near me. I'll try to measure it and see before I have one made up.. Mine has to be a little longer than normal (59 1/2 inches CC) because I installed a 1966 three speed full synchromesh instead of the stock T85 which is longer. Jay
Cop car drive shaft is 55 1/2" CC . Same as stock 57 Ford with a Fordomatic.
Don't know if theres a difference between stick shift and auto lengths.
If you feel the aluminum is not strong enough you could use the civilian
crown vic, they come with a steel driveshaft.
The tapered drive shaft is for clearance with the rear trans tunnel under the back seat. In a situation where you lower the rear end about 2", lets say for a better look or to bring the rear end back down with taller rear tires. If upgrade to a 3" tube drive shaft, your driveshaft may hit the floor under the seat, even with traction bars. If you have multiple passengers, luggage, or the springs wind up some upon acceleration, the drive shaft will touch. You may not always feel it, but go under the car and notice the shiney metal on the drive shaft and floor.
You do need to upgrade to a non-tapered driveshaft, as the original break really easy.
We have been cutting the rear floor drive shaft hump under the seat where the floor rises up and raising that area up about an 1" on most '57 builds anymore. It is no that hard to do, and elimatinates the possible contact. I raised the tunnel in my black sedan in less then two hours for a quick fix. I admit I have never went back and finished it nice underneath, but it eliminated the problem.
We didn't take the time to raise the tunnel on James '57 ragtop with 2" lowering blocks on the rear to help bring it down with the 29" tall tire. The drive shaft hits the floor big time when accelerating with the 428/5spd. We will raise he tunnel up on it in the future.
to raise the tunnel trim out the tunnel withthe rear seat out from the floor rise under the seat, to about 10" toward the front. Add a a 1" stip of metal to each side and reweld in place, but higher. You dont necessary need to weld, but could panel bond and rivet if you don't wan to weld inside the car. It doesn't seem to affect the back seat.
Aluminum driveshafts seem to work very well for me. I have 4'11's with a 5speed and the lighter shaft really reduces the drivetrain vibrations. I upgraded to 1350 u joints since I race it with a stick and slicks.
Many u-joint failures are due to excessively tight u-bolts on the rear yoke, or driveshaft angles being off.
Dgasman
Thanks for that cool illustration of the tapered shaft. I'm saving it in my folder.
Dgasman
I checked this morning and that drive shaft was gone. In retrospect, it wouldn't have worked for me because I need one that is 59 1/2" CC
Pat
Thanks for all that information of the drive shafts and the tunnel clearance issues.
Some previous owner reversed the shackles on my car. The rear springs were sagging downward in the opposite direction when I got the car. I took the springs apart, reshaped them and added another leaf now they have a proper upward arch to them. The rear shackles are now in the proper position.
I checked under the car and there is no sign of rubbing on the drive shaft and the tunnel. That's something I'm thankful for. I wouldn't be able to raise my tunnel anyways because the rear package tray is laying in it. If I did raise the tray, I would have to cut down both of my cardboard back side panels. On my car those were designed to rest in two channels on top of the package tray. As you know in the two door cars the the back side panels go down to the floor.
When I did the rear springs, I left the new U bolts extra long just in case I have to add another rear leaf in the future. Jay
I'd be interested to know what you did about a driveshaft loop. If its bolted to the floor or to the frame?
Quote from: rmk57 on 2014-01-24 16:31
I'd be interested to know what you did about a driveshaft loop. If its bolted to the floor or to the frame?
Randy
Right now I don't have a drive shaft loop. Most likely if I do put one in, I would make it so that it bolts to the frame. It's not a bad idea to have one. I did blow a drive shaft one night in my 58 with 406 when I was doing a hole shot. Good thing it was in the rear or I would have been vaulted. Jay
My Lincoln Town Car aluminum driveshaft survived 2 years of 5000 rpm launches with a 427 Windsor and 5 speed, and another year of the same with an automatic and 5000 converter. If they were junk, I must have gotten a good one.
Quote from: JPotter57 on 2014-01-26 13:23
My Lincoln Town Car aluminum driveshaft survived 2 years of 5000 rpm launches with a 427 Windsor and 5 speed, and another year of the same with an automatic and 5000 converter. If they were junk, I must have gotten a good one.
I'll admit I don't know anything about aluminum drive shafts, maybe differences in years and applications. The ones I saw were out of everyday cars, the one that was torn in half in the middle the guy said he was having a high cold idle issue and held the brake and dropped it in gear. Most of them wore torn were the yoke is attached. I know a lot of people have used them so I don't know why some break and some don't..
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2014-01-26 18:36
I'll admit I don't know anything about aluminum drive shafts, maybe differences in years and applications. The ones I saw were out of everyday cars, the one that was torn in half in the middle the guy said he was having a high cold idle issue and held the brake and dropped it in gear. Most of them wore torn were the yoke is attached. I know a lot of people have used them so I don't know why some break and some don't..
Jim I have to admit that I don't know much about them also, but I'm learning on this site.
Since I have a nice steel one in stock already, that's the one that I'll be dropping of this week to have it shortened to the length that I need.
Ford used an aluminum drive shaft in the 03 - 04 Terminators, can't be all that "wimpy".
My friends dirt modified has an aluminum shaft, it's quite narrow, 2 1/2" to 3" I'd guess. Those guys pound the hell out of em