HRD Maybe you can answer this question for me.
Now that I've started fixing up my car a little. What should I do next?
Should I install the straight front axle or the bucket seats? Thanks Jay.
What did you use for a template for the wheel opening a trash can lid? :003:
How did you guess? That's exactly what I used. Actually I didn't space the other side very well when I cut it so I'll have to enlarge the opening a little more. It will not be to noticeable though because you can only look at one side at a time.
I need to look in my wheel pile to see if I can come up a better set of back wheels.
Ha ha ha ha
Well Jay if you are going to go gasser, Speedway has the complete front axle kit, including axle, springs, rotors, calipers, spindles, king pins all the hardware for around $899.00, you've made the big boy move and radius the wheel wells, a lot of guys ain't got the guts....but we do! HRD
Ah...must be the weather..got cabin fever? LOL
Jay; your car looks like it`s on the way to a new look. If I remember correctly, you are in Boston. Where has all the snow gone?? I hope the snow up here in Ontario goes as quick as yours has . :deadhorse:
I think Jay started this undercover project in the fall and is just letting the cat out of the bag now :003:
Jay the opening you have will fill in nicely with a cheater slick of something similar. Let me know if I can fill you in on what changes I had to make. Mine is street legal so its hard to ride that line of what a true gasser is and be able to drive around with out getting harassed by Johnny Law :nono:
I use NASCAR tires for mock up. Near a NASCAR track, used ones are pretty cheap. This saves the good tires from aging and mishaps during the build. As far as a front axle, I use Ford Econoline front end. The axles were readily available in the early '70s but not so much now.
Just recently on the HAMB there was some discussion on cutting rear fender wells on gassers and working the edge over, few guys were cutting a patch panel out of Volvo 240 front fenders. Looked good as they're a perfect radius with a factory radiused edge.
Zap- :unitedstates:
Jay,Have you been getting photoshop lessons from Jim?I may need to hire you as a studio guy!
Jay, the "Massachussetts Restoration Authority Bay Area Police Division" are on the way to your place as you read this.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2014-02-26 19:14
Jay, the "Massachusetts Restoration Authority Bay Area Police Division" are on the way to your place as you read this.
Well Here it is after doing a little fixing up..
Rich .... You're not kidding. As soon as the word got out, the Registry of Motor Vehicles was parked right across the street from my house waiting for me. I had to wait until they went for coffee so I could take it out for a few test passes. There is talk that that they want to take my badge and Id card away.
HRD... I've been working on it day and night for almost a week to get it done. Don't go counting on walking away with all of the trophies at the indoor show in a couple of weeks. Now you have some competition. That $899 front end was too much money. The Econoline front end fit right in. Fitting those dang headers was the big problem.
Jeff....If you and Rob come along throwing popcorn at me at the show, I'll be throwing something back.
Well Jay I'm impressed, you sure can get the job done quick! Your faster then the TV shows, build a car in 72 hrs with 8 guys.....you did it yourself in a week. LOL! HRD.
don't you hate those hand cramps you get from working photo shop night and day!
Looks good!!
I haven't tried this yet but if there is a next time for fenderwell headers, I'm going to buy a cheap set of Speedway Motors' BBC fenderwell headers for tri-five chevys. I have read that they are really close to fitting with a flange change for 385 or 345 motors. I would be very curious to see if the SBC header with flange change fit the Y block applications.
Quote from: hotroddonnie on 2014-02-27 04:43
Well Jay I'm impressed, you sure can get the job done quick! Your faster then the TV shows, build a car in 72 hrs with 8 guys.....you did it yourself in a week. LOL! HRD.
HRD... It's real tough competing with the TV show 72 hour restoration projects. I have often wondered how many "dangerous shortcuts" they take when they are under the pressure to finish them yesterday. Pretty paint can cover a lot of bad stuff.
Quote from: gasman826 on 2014-02-27 09:15
Don't you hate those hand cramps you get from working photo shop night and day!
I'm going to buy a cheap set of Speedway Motors' BBC fenderwell headers for tri-five chevys. I have read that they are really close to fitting with a flange change for 385 or 345 motors. I would be very curious to see if the SBC header with flange change fit the Y block applications.
Gary...
On the late night photo shop work , that's the best I could do without hurting the car.
On the tri five headers. I have read somewhere that it is an easy job to do. If and when you have to do it, with your talent, it's going to be a walk in the park. I just can't find where I read about it. Jay
much better photo shop job than I can do.
been cleaning and painting garnish mouldings and other interior stuff. There's a bunch of this stuff...worse than painting the outside of the car.
Those little garnish like pieces that support the kick panels and the windlace on the lower, front edge of the door opening that are always rusted off at the bottom...I've got a fix. I had several pairs of these that all had the bottom rusted off. I cut the tops off two of them and welded them to the bottoms of two others. The radius of the top curve is really close to the radius of the bottom curve. I laid it out so the holes line up to fasten them to the A pillar. I metal finished the 'show' side (1st two photos). I was not so concerned with the back side (photo 3). Just an idea for a hard to find part.
You got it going there...getting ready to "make" new lowers. Have a good one for example (mirror) and will try to post pics. Wish I had saved the bad ones from the 300 I put to rest....
Quote from: gasman826 on 2014-02-27 16:28
I cut the tops off two of them and welded them to the bottoms of two others. The radius of the top curve is really close to the radius of the bottom curve. I laid it out so the holes line up to fasten them to the A pillar.
Gary
That's exactly 100% the same thing that I did when I was faced with that problem. At the time I was happy that I had extra pieces to work with. Jay
Quote from: gasman826 on 2014-02-27 09:15
don't you hate those hand cramps you get from working photo shop night and day!
Looks good!!
I haven't tried this yet but if there is a next time for fenderwell headers, I'm going to buy a cheap set of Speedway Motors' BBC fenderwell headers for tri-five chevys. I have read that they are really close to fitting with a flange change for 385 or 345 motors. I would be very curious to see if the SBC header with flange change fit the Y block applications.
Gary, there was a guy on the y blocks forever site that modified a set of sbc headers to fit a y block flange, turned out nice, he had a few guys asking him to make some. Mark