I am trying to figure out if this is the correct throttle setup for a 57 fairlane. My car didn't have a throttle setup, and this was in a box of other 57 parts my dad has in his shop. It appears to be cable controlled vs. A steel shaft carburator linkage.
Nope, that is a late model cable type. The stock 57 was kinda a S shape with the horizontal part going through the firewall, a lever pointing down in the passenger compartment and a lever pointing up in the engine bay.
Some one may have a picture and can post it, I don't.
Thank you, I was thinking that was probably the case. Anybody have any pictures of a stock piece?
I'll see if I can find mine tommorrow and snap some pics.
Found it..complete with all the hardware. The throttle rod is for a 6 cyl.
Thanks Rich, I'll keep my eyes open for one of those then.
Kevin
I'm not using that one. Somebody should verify that the 6 cyl is the same as the 8 cyl though. I think it would be safe to assume the throttle rod is different, but the rest of the pedal may be the same.
I had to go to a cable throttle on mine because of the e.f.i.,
We did have a discusion last year on the actual pedals and the (two?)different attachment methods/designs used by Ford, apparently randomly I think was the conclusion., with that in mind, I'm not sure if this pedal in the pics has the attachment type suited for the reproduction gas pedals now being produced.....it, and ones like it, may require some fiddling to mate up smoothly with a "new" pedal.
I actually have a NOS gas pedal, I just need the rod portion. Does anybody know if the 6 cylinder vs V8 are the same. Im sure the carburator linkage is different.
Kevin
Kevin...John (Hoosier Hurricane) responded to the querry...apparently the difference is not in the 6 vs 8, but in the trannies. Stick shift is different than Auto. The one I have is from a stick shift.
Thanks, I'm running a stick shift. I'll message you.
Kevin
It's on it's way Kevin. I sent it priority...po says Friday.
Great thanks again.
Kevin
Rich I do not want to high jack the thread but curious as to what kind of cable throttle you used in the efi swap as I am starting that shortly. Thanks
No problem with the hijack...we were done. He's got the pedal installed.
I used the oem cable/linkage off the Lincoln Mark VIII. The cable itself went in unmodified, but I had to make several mods to the pedal to get full travel when mounted to the '57 firewall.
What EFI/drivetrain are you installing? I've got lots of pics of what I did, and how I modified the MK VIII cable/pedal to work with a '57 style floor pedal, but I don't know if they'll do you any good depending on what you're working on. In any case, I would think the best place to start would be the oem cable from the donor car....ie, even the different year Mark VIII's for example had different cables because the throttle body was in different locations.
Let us know more about your project.
The car is a 4 door custom 300, original 272 being replaced with an efi 302 from a 1988 Mustang GT that will be fitted with an AOD from the mustang as well. The engine is a fresh overhaul with trick flow intake, mass air flow, larger throttle body, bigger injectors, B cam, upgraded rockers etc. they rate it about 300 hp. I am fitting vintage air unit, have already done rack and pinion steering and will upgrade the brakes to disk during the winter as well. I plan to put a new fuel tank in with an in tank pump. Exhaust will be either Mustang shorty headers or if they fit, full length headers as I a new set of both with the donor car. I also got a ceramic Mac Pro chamber and 2 sets of new exhaust pipes and flowmaster American Thunder mufflers. I plan to either use the Mustang harness for control or purchase an aftermarket harness. Before I saw the donor car my plan was to strip it and use the parts but the car is actually too nice to scrap so after I am done my 57 I will assemble the Mustang and sell it.
I hadn't thought about the gas pedal issue until I read the post and hence my question about the cable. As I am hoping to rebuild the mustang I may search the boneyard for other useable cables. The other question I have not decided on is gauges. I saw a very nice set up on Bobs Speedo site but while nice it comes in at about $2000 which is beyond what I want to spend. I will likely go with original set and add oil and volts in a discreet location. Anyway I could go on and on but that's the plan for this winter! Thanks for the input.
Cool...keep us posted. You may want to check out the thread I've got going on my 4.6 install..."4.6 dohc being installed now"...starting on page 25, bottom, I've got pics and info on the gas pedal linkage, and after that I get into the fuel pump install. I ran into some clearance issues with the fuel pump location I chose, so you may want to read about that before you start.
What are you planning for shift linkage? Floor?
Ok I will check out the thread. I am curious about the tank pump unit so that will help me prepare. So what you are saying is the tank is too close to the trunk floor for the pump set up? I was considering cutting an access panel in the floor for future pump access but at the moment I am not at the car so I can't tell how tight it will be. I will read your post.
With the donor package I got a drag racing AOD that is a Super Comp, has a trans brake, full manual shift and Neil Chance 2800 stall converter along with a B andM pro stick shifter. I am no drag racer and after reading all about this kind of set up my plan is to sell it as a package and stick with an overhauled AOD and match a Lokar floor shifter to it. That trans brake seems like it could be dangerous in a street car. Thanks again for input. I will start a thread once the project gets started this fall.
Check out Tanks Inc. They make a neat setup using a Walbro pump, and it has a built in sump/baffle/? to keep air getting into the line on a low tank. you definetly need to recess the pump mounting down from the top surface of the tank, otherwise you will have it sticking up thru the trunk floor. Tanks inc. makes a neat recess box for this.
What I was talking about, as you'll find in that article, is if you want the pump towards the front of the tank (opposite the fuel filler), you will run into the bottom floor brace/tank mounting brace that runs the full width of the tank..right up against it. This doesn't create interference with the pump itself, but the fuel lines. I had to heavily dimple that brace to get the lines passed under. The only side of the tank that is "open", or clear, is the driver's side , so if one were to install the pump on that side instead of the front, you wouldn't have the fuel line clearance problems I did.
If you back up a few more pages on the thread I mentioned, you should find some step by step info on the install of the recess box. BTW, the ni-tern gas tank that auto city classic sells welds great....I was worried about poisenous fumes like you get with galvanized stuff, but there weren't any.
Page 21 on the 4.6 install thread is where you'll find pics of the recess box install.
Rich
Tanks inc is the pump set up I had chosen but was hoping not to have to weld in the recessed box. I can weld but would not trust it to be air tight so I may have to contract that out. After my last post I went and read your description and will keep that to when I get the car jacked up and tank removed. What kind of welder did you use to do the tank?
I used the only thing I know how to use...a mig, and I hope it's good. For checking leaks, I didn't want to put anything in the tank except a solvent that would evaporate quickly and not contaminate the weld. I did end up doing it twice, mainly because I ground off too much of the first weld, and didn't feel comfortable with it in view of the fact it's got the pump mounted to it. I got it to the point where laquer thinner wasn't seeping thru anywhere, and in light of the fact it's on the top of the tank and not normally submerged in gasolene, I think it's gonna be ok. I'll keep an eye on it.