I just found out (the hard way) that I need a gas tank for my Custom 300. Does anyone in the forum have a recommendation where to buy a quality gas tank that is a stock replacement that will fit without any big hassles or modifications. There are several suppliers (Bob Drake, Dearborn Classics, Rock Auto) out there with prices ranging for $179 to $324.
Hi, I bought mine from Rock Auto Parts on line. Around 150.00 dollars. It was made by Spectra who makes a lot of fuel Tanks. Mine was for a 57 2 door club sedan. Fit fine.
More than a few of us have gotten them from Classic City Auto. Their contact info is in the links section. The standard tank is 139, and the Nitern finish (additional rustproofing,which is what I got) is 189. Mine fit great..a few guys had to tweek the filler tube to get it exactly centered, but easily done. They also have ss straps for 40ish (I got them too, fit was great.)
Since the filler tube is attached to the tank what do you mean by tweeking the filler tube?
The welded tube moves pretty easy. Mine was actually off about a total of an eighth of an inch....would have been ok like that because I could pull it easily to center with my fingers, so the gromett would have done the same, but I just put a piece of pipe in the neck and just shoved it a bit and "tweeked" it into place that way.
Definition "tweeking"...a fine adjustment. LOL...must be a local thing.
My tank came in a box with the unprotected neck just sticking out...may be why it needed any tweeking at all. It did have a bit of cardboard taped around the opening, but the rest of the neck was just poking out of the box.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2014-08-25 21:15
The welded tube moves pretty easy. Mine was actually off about a total of an eighth of an inch....would have been ok like that because I could pull it easily to center with my fingers, so the gromett would have done the same, but I just put a piece of pipe in the neck and just shoved it a bit and "tweeked" it into place that way.
Definition "tweeking"...a fine adjustment. LOL...must be a local thing.
My tank came in a box with the unprotected neck just sticking out...may be why it needed any tweeking at all. It did have a bit of cardboard taped around the opening, but the rest of the neck was just poking out of the box.
Everything with mine was the same as Rich, especially the way the neck was sticking out of the box with a bit of cardboard taped around it.. I had to tweek the neck down to get it centered in the hole. The original sending fits and the tank works fine.
Thanks for the info. I ordered one from Classic City Auto and it will be here on Saturday. Can't wait to get it installed so I can start driving my Custom 300 again.
Don't forget to put some type of sheeting between the tank and the trunk floor. As Pat suggested, tar paper/roofing felt will work..I used aluminum faced self adhesive dynamat type stuff. If you ordered new straps as well, they will come with rubber strips.
I got mine from Classic city auto as well.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2014-08-29 09:16
Don't forget to put some type of sheeting between the tank and the trunk floor. As Pat suggested, tar paper/roofing felt will work..I used aluminum faced self adhesive dynamat type stuff. If you ordered new straps as well, they will come with rubber strips.
Rich
What happens if you don't put sheeting between it?
I don't really know, Jay...probably just a noise/rattle/squeak thing. Maybe in another 50 years a worn thru spot from rubbing? I sure wouldn't have dropped mine to add it had I not remembered somehow beforehand there was something there. In all the gas tank/build threads anywhere I've never seen it mentioned.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2014-08-30 11:42
I don't really know, Jay...probably just a noise/rattle/squeak thing. Maybe in another 50 years a worn thru spot from rubbing? I sure wouldn't have dropped mine to add it had I not remembered somehow beforehand there was something there. In all the gas tank/build threads anywhere I've never seen it mentioned.
I just happen to have one of those unwanted noise / rattle / squeak thingies that you are talking about and I don't remember if there was something in there when I took it apart a long long time ago. Now I have another thing to add to my to do list.
BBoswel... Was there something between your tank when you took it out? If so , what was it?
I will be pulling the old tank this Tuesday and will let you know. If I remember correctly from my younger years there is nothing between . . . but the idea of using dynamat sounds reasonable to me. We didn't have that stuff the last time I pulled a tank. I'm also changing out the sending unit as well. I only want to do this one time.
Myself and a few others found remnants of some type. I seem to remember it was a bulapy type material..but that was 10 years ago when I pulled the old one out, so who knows.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2014-08-31 06:34
Myself and a few others found remnants of some type. I seem to remember it was a bulapy type material..but that was 10 years ago when I pulled the old one out, so who knows.
Well Rich
I'm going to put something in there. That's for sure. I also like the idea of putting a covering on the straps. I already have a hidden ground wire on it. That issue has a tendency to give people a headache too.
"I already have a hidden ground wire on it. That issue has a tendency to give people a headache too."
I know I keep harping on this...but that's why I'm wiring my car as if it were a fiberglass car...no grounds to lose contact because of rust, etc, and I don't have to scrape bare spots in the body that took soooo long to get rust free and painted. So far I haven't had any major issues doing that..just stuff like replacing new sockets with new sockets that have a grounding lug, or having to add a screw hole for a grounding wire connector.
Grounds are important especially on headlights.
Try working a Corvette. Many years ago I had a 62 and it had more electrical issues then wires. The ground system in that car was messed up by previous owner abuse. Fix one problem and another pops up, had to just keep chasing until all was working as it should. That car taught me that grounds needed to be hooked together in more then one location. The tail lights (each pair) had a ground wire that ran to the junction block under the dash. They would not behave properly, chased and chased until it dawned on me that the two leads going to the front of the car looked like they needed to be hooked together. Hidden on top of the wheel well were the connectors to tie the two together prior to their run to the front of the car. Hooked them up and the tail/brake lights now worked as they should!
Gas tank is installed. There was nothing between the tank and car but I put dynamat on the top of the tank, put in a new sender and bolted it up with the new straps (required for bigger tank). It fit perfectly without any adjustments needed. That's another thing I can mark off the list of tweeks I want (or need) to do!
Quote from: BBoswell on 2014-09-05 08:55
Gas tank is installed. There was nothing between the tank and car but I put dynamat on the top of the tank, put in a new sender and bolted it up with the new straps (required for bigger tank). It fit perfectly without any adjustments needed. That's another thing I can mark off the list of tweeks I want (or need) to do!
Just curious,
Is dynamat something that holds dampness? How thick is it?
It is used for sound deadening and heat insulation, foil coated and about 1/16" thick. I believe it is petroleum based. I'm guessing that since it is used on inside of metal panels it has to be somewhat moisture resistant . . . time will tell. Probably not an issue since this car will very seldom see anything other than light rain.
Jay..it's the same as a "snow and ice shield" the roofers put along the lower edges and the valleys on a roof under the shingles as an extra layer of protection. It's very common in northern areas, not so easy to find in southern climates. Some roofing sheild is topped with a granulated coating, others with an aluminum facing. It's the aluminum faced that myself and others have used as a budget version of Dynamat. It's self adhesive, and if it looses it's tackyness before used, it can be revived with a heatgun. I tested the stuff I used with a flame to see if would ignite, and it wouldn't.
Now I know what you guys are talking about. I'll pick up some the next time I go to Home Depot. I'm not going to worry about the tackyness. The fuel tank and straps will hold it in
I am looking for a gas tank for my 64 Galaxie and did a search on the web site to see who somebody here recommended. I see Classic City Auto, but I think you are talking about Auto City Classic. Am I right ??? I have the 64 parked on a lift with my 57 Fairlane under it and noticed a drop hanging from the tank last week, Please let me know, thanks, Mark
Sounds like something I'd do....yep, you are correct.
Thanks Rich,