I have 5 hoods. None can be used as they are. Either the top section is trashed or the bottom is . I was thinking of taking 2 and making 1. Anyone ever peel these 2 layers apart and replace one piece with a good top or bottom? If you had any problems doing it , please let me know any secrets of what i'm about to do.
I think Gasman826 did, except he reskinned using a t-bird panel.
Pick your worst hood to practice on.
Am planning on doing this myself for a different reason (louvers) and have talked to several people about to proceed. The biggest issue is making sure the inner panel is aligned properly to the skin. If its off your hood will be crooked to the rest of the car. You have 5 hoods so before you start taking them apart measure everyone of them from the edge of hood to the hood bolt mounting area, going to guess there will be a bit of variance but not much between the different hoods. Record all your measurements you'll need them when you start to put it all back together.
The taking apart is am told one of those jobs you don't want to rush. You'll want to buy a spot weld cutter and drill all the spot welds off. Once that is done you'll need to carefully pry the skin lip up to clear the inner frame. The advise from others has been to not try and bring any area up 100% up at any time but to bring the whole perimeter up in small incremental steps. Been told to use anything from paint scrappers, modified screw drivers and pry bars. There are some very thin pry bars that only cost a few bucks that am thinking would be ideal. Lowes, Home Depot and Harbor Freight all have them dirt cheap. They all look the same no matter where you buy them just a thin piece of hardened steel about 6 inches long everyone I've seen is painted black and dirt cheap.
When you go to put it back together there is a tool made to fold that lip back on, fairly inexpensive just search online for door re-skinning tools. Or you can very carefully hammer and dolly it back down.
NOW! A simpler way which most guys doing louvers do is to use an air powered cutoff tool and cut the inner support out and not risk the alignment issues when it all comes back together. So if you have a good outer and enough of the brace is good, just cut the inner areas from it and a better one from another trim it to match the good outer and carefully weld it back together.
Am sure there are many other ways to do this and am hoping that gasman will chime just as much for you as for me.
Whatever you do just don't get in any big hurry. Hope this helps if nothing else give you some ideas on how you might approach the job.
Zap- :unitedstates:
Thanks Zap, I like everything you said except the part of using a spot weld cutter . This tool from all that I've seen is just a holesaw. What part I don't like is the pilot bit. No matter how short it is I will wind up drilling through the hood's top layer. Like you said I have plenty to practice on, and at least one , that is all it is good for. If this works out , I'll have to try doors and tailgates . These parts are getting harder and harder to find , and I don't know who ever coined "Rust Free Texas Car" Those don't exist that were made in 57 and still are wearing their own 57 skins.
flash, :unitedstates: there are a ton of youtube videos dealing with door reskins, watch a few and you'll pick up a few more tips.
good luck
Zap-
The spot weld tool Zap was probably refering to doesn't require a pilot hole. The center guide is spring loaded. All you need is a very shallow drill point for the pilot to keep the tool from jumping around. I use a center drill for drilling the spot. It is actually a small hole saw.
Be careful of the hood pads they contain asbestos.
If you are just saving the inner panel you can use a grinder
to cut the 4 edges as the outer panel is mostly crimped on as are
door skins.
Goodluck,
Ron.
In Europe we get small 6mm ( approx 1/4") spot weld drills, that look more like a wood drill with a tiny pilot drill centering. it produces absolutely flat holes with maybe a 0.01- 0.02" deep center hole. the small 6mm diameter makes it much easier to spot weld it later. I am sure these are available in the US also. I have disassembled a complete 34 rdstr with these among other stuff, trunklid,cowl, inner structure and all. when taking it slow you can easily do approx 25-30 holes with one drill, even up to 50 or more, depending from steel and depth and cutting speed. they are not so expensive, maybe around 7-8 $ each. Well worth the effort.
going to disassemble my Ranch wagon tailgate soon. I will post pics.
I also have to do this due to trapped rust in the spot welded seams caused by the chemical stripping process that the body was done with. I intend to make up a simple jig to check all of the alignment when I weld the skin back on after shotblasting all the rust out. I was going to keep it simple, made from wood, that picked up on datum points before I start to strip it, then check it before I re-weld it all back together. I'm going to be getting on with this when it warms up a bit.
Thanks, guys. I feel ready for battle now. And even if I screw them all up, I did't hurt anything but half good hoods. I feel confident ,however.I'm waiting to see those pics of tailgate restoration. I have a couple around here that are just like the hoods.I have a door that looks good when it is closed. It 's just flapping in the wind at the bottom edge. As with the hoods, there are plenty of "practice" models laying around behind the barn. Man, I wish I could just find a good body that could be a frame - on restoration. I think they are all restored or all used up.
Quote from: SkylinerRon on 2015-02-02 00:42
If you are just saving the inner panel you can use a grinder
to cut the 4 edges as the outer panel is mostly crimped on as are
door skins.
Goodluck,
Ron.
hadn't thought of doing that, great idea, that is why am always glad to have others chime in.
Zap- :unitedstates:
just checked Harbor Freight sells a double edge version for $4.99 online and some stores.
$4.99...That's cheap enough. I need to get a new battery charger while I'm there too. I never held one of the weld cutters in my hand, I only looked at pictures of them, from Eastwood. They don't sell anything for $4.99. Thanks, again.
get a couple, better to have an extra than have to stop in the middle, run low rpm and consider using a lubricant,and wd4o is not a lubricant no matter what many seem to think.
Zap- :unitedstates:
You'll probably save money by spending 10 bucks for a brand name spot weld cutter. I tried the HF ones...was breaking teeth off left and right. A good one should last 50-80 holes or so as DJ said. I was lucky to get five out of the HF ones. This is from a HF fan!
You should be able to fold the hood edges up and then refold them.
I've seen some professional tools for unfolding them. I personally do not own anything to unfold them, so I can't tell you how they work.
As far as refolding. A lot of old school guys use a door skinning hammer and dolly. This can be done nice I you are really good. I personally own a "Shark" door skinner. It's sort of an air hammer with a "T" shaped but and a curved bar to hold the lower handle which has a soft pad. I can easily re-skin doors with nearly flawless results. No filler or even primer if properly you are properly trained on using a shark. The trick is to change the angle of the tool, regulate the air pressure down, and move the tool back and forth on the door edge rapidly. You only want to fold the edge a few degrees each pass, same as with a hammer. I got mine on eBay a few years ago. I was fortunate to have someone show me how to use the tool correctly. and I can't believe how well it works.
I use a bead of panel bond adhesive to cover the bare-metal in the folded area to prevent corrosion and bond the panels together. With an adhesive, you must fit the panel to the car immediately after folding to fit incase the new panel needs twisted or a gap adjusted. One the adhesive drives, you can no longer flex the panel.
You can use a die grinder with a ball style bit to grind out just the few spot weld carefully for the few weld on a hood. Most automotive paint stores can sell you a Spitzeneagel bit to use in a drill. No pilot hole needed, and it cuts many holes. About $20-$25 each. I avoid anything with a pointed end or pilot, as they damage the underlying panel you are trying to save.
Good Luck on getting a nice hood built.
here's how I drilled the spotwelds on my tailgate, you can see more in my Ranch wagon topic
http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=4930.msg43917#msg43917 (http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=4930.msg43917#msg43917)
You guys are great. I feel like I just past a course in sheetmetalology. Now I have to yake the practical test.
When I took my tailgate apart, I noticed the spot welds were very small, about 1/8 inch or less. I couldn't buy a spot weld drill that small, so I tried making one and it worked out very well. For any of you that can grind a tool cutting edge for a metal lathe, it should be pretty easy to do.
I took a small regular drill bit, put it on the edge of my belt sander, and very carefully ground the same profile that my bigger spot weld cutter had. Tiny point in the middle with pretty much flat cutting edges on the sides. It worked very well. I ended up sharpening it once more, but I didn't end up with oversize holes for the tiny spot welds though. The bit I used was a 3/16 inch or so, if I remember correctly. You could use any size bit as long as you can see the end of it to grind the cutting edges, and best of all, it was free.