I live in Eugene area and want to get the front end alignment checked and tweeked on my 300 but I can't find anyone who can basic old school alignment. All the shops I find have the electronic alignment that uses all four wheels . . . which obviously won't work because they can't clamp the rear wheel mechanisms to the rear wheels. Can any of our Oregon members recommend a shop?
haven't used them in years but the Line-Up Shops in Portland were always not only good but honest. Two locations one down in lower SE thinking down by Stark on Sandy Blvd the other on 102nd north of Glisan. not exactly close to you but I'd give them a call they may recommend someone closer.
Zap- :unitedstates:
Sandy store 503-253-9797
102nd store 503-252-3407
www.lineupshop.com
A buddy has used this guy for all his older fords,
Norb's Alighnment
20505 SW Blanton St.
Aloha, Or.
503-642-4202
Quote from: BBoswell on 2015-03-15 17:11
I live in Eugene area and want to get the front end alignment checked and tweeked on my 300 but I can't find anyone who can basic old school alignment. All the shops I find have the electronic alignment that uses all four wheels . . . which obviously won't work because they can't clamp the rear wheel mechanisms to the rear wheels. Can any of our Oregon members recommend a shop?
Mr. Boswell - I'm fixing to do my wheel alignment shortly, I assume the reason most shops can't use the new equipment because of our rear wheelbase is narrower than the front end? Am I right or is there something else?
The rear fender openings cover part of the wheel/tire, and the lasers that attach to the wheels are rim clamp design. They won't fit.
Got it. Thanks
Was able to find a place that could align my Fairlaine, they even had the 57 specs in the computer. He was able to tie onto the rear wheel (on the lip) with no problem, even with the 2" lowering blocks on the rear end. The alignment unit is made by Hunter (model DSP700).
I guess I have been living in a cave too long and all this electronic stuff is voodoo to me :005:.
I can seem to understand how it would read camber but how does it read caster? I'm baffled.
And why does it needed to be attached to the rear wheels?
Glad you got your alignment done. Saw this post last month & couldn't figure out why a front end shop couldn't align your car. After I got done rebuilding my front end on my 300 my buddy at the Ford dealer we worked at just drove it on the rack (Hunter w/laser heads) and did the alignment. No drama, just did the alignment. Maybe some of the shops didn't want to mess with it because it's a bit more work than the usual "toe & go" they're used to.
I think I've got to much time on my hands so I tried the string method. Seems to have worked although I only did the toe in.
I can take my hands off the wheel at 60mph and it doesn't wonder at all so must be pretty close.http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CDMQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hotrod.com%2Fhow-to%2Fchassis-suspension%2Fctrp-1204-determining-wheel-alignment-string-your-car%2F&ei=ICQ9VbmCN5CYoQSu4YCQAQ&usg=AFQjCNG-iKmF_884rgROvYtmO_HwQSxwFw&sig2=TCI2NzY-Is5AYc7GNWRPJw
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2015-04-26 11:24
I guess I have been living in a cave too long and all this electronic stuff is voodoo to me :005:.
I can seem to understand how it would read camber but how does it read caster? I'm baffled.
And why does it needed to be attached to the rear wheels?
Jim
Back in the cave man days I managed to somehow come up with a set of the old fashion ones that are held to the front spindles with magnets. I also have the two plates that the front wheels rest on. They work great, so there is no need for the electronic stuff. FWIW I don't attach anything to the back wheels also. The new stuff is too confusing.
Quote from: Lucky'57 on 2015-04-26 02:59
Was able to find a place that could align my Fairlaine, they even had the 57 specs in the computer. He was able to tie onto the rear wheel (on the lip) with no problem, even with the 2" lowering blocks on the rear end. The alignment unit is made by Hunter (model DSP700).
Lucky57
It's great that you found someone who could do it by coming up with a way to hook them on the back rims. I believe that most shops can do it, but just don't want to take that extra bit of time to set it up.
Quote from: Ecode70D on 2015-04-26 14:27
Jim
Back in the cave man days I managed to somehow come up with a set of the old fashion ones that are held to the front spindles with magnets. I also have the two plates that the front wheels rest on. They work great, so there is no need for the electronic stuff. FWIW I don't attach anything to the back wheels also. The new stuff is too confusing.
Jay,
I remember that type of caster/camber gauge. I had mine done on one of the electronic ones and the car pulled to on side. I took it back and they insisted it was correct, I got pissed and left. I checked the camber with a simple plumb bob and the right wheel had way to much -camber, I had to add a shim to the two front/rear alignment bolts and got it to match the other side which looked correct and now she tracks straight as an ARROW :003:
Quote from: rmk57 on 2015-04-26 12:50
I think I've got to much time on my hands so I tried the string method. Seems to have worked although I only did the toe in.
I can take my hands off the wheel at 60mph and it doesn't wonder at all so must be pretty close.http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CDMQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hotrod.com%2Fhow-to%2Fchassis-suspension%2Fctrp-1204-determining-wheel-alignment-string-your-car%2F&ei=ICQ9VbmCN5CYoQSu4YCQAQ&usg=AFQjCNG-iKmF_884rgROvYtmO_HwQSxwFw&sig2=TCI2NzY-Is5AYc7GNWRPJw
I've used the string method on my straight axle truck a few times...
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2015-04-26 18:07
I checked the camber with a simple plumb bob and the right wheel had way to much -camber, I had to add a shim to the two front/rear alignment bolts and got it to match the other side which looked correct and now she tracks straight as an ARROW :003:
Isn't it a shame that we pay good money to have an alignment done by the so called experts and they end up doing a crummy job. Good for you that you know how to correct the camber yourself.
There is a lot of truth to shops not wanting to spend the time or effort, but there is also the fact that the old timers are retiring and there is a whole new crop of folks running the electronic alignment equipment that are too young to know how to do an old school alignment . . . or any alignment without the electronic assist. I've found one shop that can do it but they won't vary the factory specs at all and since the suspension is much must lower than stock and the stance is entirely different the stock specs don't always work. We are going to do it ourselves with chalk, string and a plumb bob. It ain't brain surgery and the results certainly can't be any worse than what it is now. Thanks for all the responses to my original post.
Quote from: BBoswell on 2015-04-27 01:22
There is a lot of truth to shops not wanting to spend the time or effort, but there is also the fact that the old timers are retiring and there is a whole new crop of folks running the electronic alignment equipment that are too young to know how to do an old school alignment . . . or any alignment without the electronic assist. I've found one shop that can do it but they won't vary the factory specs at all and since the suspension is much must lower than stock and the stance is entirely different the stock specs don't always work. We are going to do it ourselves with chalk, string and a plumb bob. It ain't brain surgery and the results certainly can't be any worse than what it is now. Thanks for all the responses to my original post.
Yes...And when you do it "yourself", you will be able to rest assured that it is correct and you will not have screwed up settings like they did on Jim's car. Jay
i picked up a alignment set up off e bay and found a old snap-on toe setting tool from the 50's.now i do my own