I'm at the point of ordering both front and rear sway bars for my'57 Ranchero. The body is off and the frame is on a rotisserie. The frame has the following ....Drop'm /Stop'm 2 1/2" dropped spindles, larger Mustang calipers, rack & pinion steering.
I listed these parts, as the many posts I've read and reread indicate that some sway bars are more desireable than others based on the combination of parts, R&P, Spindles, Brakes etc..
Based on all of the reading I've done on the Forum, I've come to these conclusions and ask for confirmation that my choices are correct or should I say workable, and do not come with built in problems and issues, being used with the spindes, R&P, etc.
Front Bar: Quickor. , based on what I've read should be relatively easy to install on a bare frame. 7/8" or 1 " diameter? Not sure what to do here. Quickor points out that the "side" of the bushing, for the 1" bar is thin. Those of you that have used this 1" bar.......what can you tell me? Is this "Thin Side" an issue? Sounds like it is, but you'll known best based on real world experience.
Rear Bar: Appears that the Concourse / SW Thunderbird bar is the choice here. Any issues with the rear bar and my car being a
Ranchero? I don't think there are, but y'all known more about this than I do.
Thanks
John
I can only address my experience with the Concourse rear sway bar on my Ranchero. I found that the bar doesn't allow the rear to drop far enough to get a rear tire on ( 215x70x14 on Craigar rims ) If only jacked up on one side, which makes sense as the bar is trying to keep both wheels at the same level. So I have to jack up both sides to remove a tire or disconnect the bar on the side I'm changing. Either way is a PITA, but the bar works well. Hopefully I won't need to remove a wheel again in the future.
I have the Quickor. The jury is still out. The bar is a 1". The bar does not come with the brackets to attach it to the frame, it uses stock '59 brackets. The clearance is VERY close to the lower control arms. I bought factory brackets on eBay, and another set from Dearborn for a 1" Mustang bar (with the same bushings as it turned out). Once installed assuming it doesn't hit the control arms it will be worth the trouble to me. I believe it is "stiffer" that the SWT bar and it will not limit front wheel backspace. A few pics....
This is where the brackets mount to the frame. (The car in the pic is a '63 Galaxie). You can see they are in the curve of the frame. I would weld a flat plate into the frame with either tapped holes or welded nuts if my frame was off the car.
Thanks Jim and Lynn. I might need to rethink both front and rear bars.
I hope others reply, maybe with some other first hand experiences.
John
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2015-10-15 09:10
I can only address my experience with the Concourse rear sway bar on my Ranchero. I found that the bar doesn't allow the rear to drop far enough to get a rear tire on ( 215x70x14 on Craigar rims ) If only jacked up on one side, which makes sense as the bar is trying to keep both wheels at the same level. So I have to jack up both sides to remove a tire or disconnect the bar on the side I'm changing. Either way is a PITA, but the bar works well. Hopefully I won't need to remove a wheel again in the future.
Jim, I've read this several times to make sure I fully understand it. Do I understand that you are having to jack up the car on both sides by the frame, so as to allow the rear end to drop down far enough to get the tire/wheel off? If I understand it correctly, that is a PITA.
Quote from: KYBlueOval on 2015-10-15 13:33
Jim, I've read this several times to make sure I fully understand it. Do I understand that you are having to jack up the car on both sides by the frame, so as to allow the rear end to drop down far enough to get the tire/wheel off? If I understand it correctly, that is a PITA.
You understand correctly. I had no problem when I installed the bar or when I changed rear ends as the car was on stands on both sides. Then I had to replace a brake spring on just one side and thats when I ran into the problem.
It's not really a major PITA but I'm getting old and just like to complain :003: Things aren't as easy as they use to be.
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2015-10-15 13:51
You understand correctly. I had no problem when I installed the bar or when I changed rear ends as the car was on stands on both sides. Then I had to replace a brake spring on just one side and thats when I ran into the problem.
It's not really a major PITA but I'm getting old and just like to complain :003: Things aren't as easy as they use to be.
That would be a real PITA, on the side of the road! As to things not being as easy as they used to be........I can relate. I'm a 1945 model, with all o.e.m. equipment. It all works, but I've run up 100,000 hard miles!
I just woke up from my nap so you understand about the hard high mileage. I'm a 47 model all oem except a few missing teeth. If I had know I was going to live this long I would have missed all the fun miles in the 60-70's.
I've wondered about what I would do on the side of the road but then again I don't even have a spare tire, just cross my fingers and go for it :003:.
Jim, my plans for my Ranchero don't include a spare either. In my other cars I carry a small 12V compressor and a plug kit. Don't like using a plug, but any port in a storm.
I see that you have a '57 Ranchero. I made another post about the gas tank filler pipe connection to the tank and the straps that mount the tank. Might you know of a Ranchero / Station Wagon Parts Car, where I could possibly get the straps?
Thanks
John
Quote from: KYBlueOval on 2015-10-16 03:50
Jim, my plans for my Ranchero don't include a spare either. In my other cars I carry a small 12V compressor and a plug kit. Don't like using a plug, but any port in a storm.
I see that you have a '57 Ranchero. I made another post about the gas tank filler pipe connection to the tank and the straps that mount the tank. Might you know of a Ranchero / Station Wagon Parts Car, where I could possibly get the straps?
Thanks
John
Sorry John, I don't know of any parts cars in this area where I live. The only guy I have seen referenced in other post is Steve Pierce out in Twentynine Palms, he might have some.
Jim you just talked me out of installing the rear away bar that I took out of a late model Bronco in the junk yard. Naturally if I did get a flat on the expressway, I would go slow and drive it to a safe place where I could change it. Unbolting a sway bar link on the road does not sound like fun.
I'm happy with the unknown name front sway bar that I installed.
Quote from: Ecode70D on 2015-10-16 07:27
Jim you just talked me out of installing the rear away bar that I took out of a late model Bronco in the junk yard. Naturally if I did get a flat on the expressway, I would go slow and drive it to a safe place where I could change it. Unbolting a sway bar link on the road does not sound like fun.
I'm happy with the unknown name front sway bar that I installed.
Jay, I don't blame you for not using it. If I only drove in the flat lands and around town I wouldn't either. But I spend a lot of time in the mountains and canyons trying to keep up with the crotch rockets :003:
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2015-10-16 07:57
But I spend a lot of time in the mountains and canyons trying to keep up with the crotch rockets :003:
John I'm sorry about hijacking your thread. Wish I knew who made my front sway bar. Like I stated in another thread, I got mine from a friend of mine who ordered two by accident. He found the second one after a long period of time and didn't remember where he purchased it and there was no box. In my picture you see the attaching brackets. The bumper brackets went on with no alteration.
Jim You need both sway bars more than I do when tooling around in the mountains. Maybe you have to reword that last statement and say "The crotch rockets are trying to keep up with you".
I purchased a front sway bar from SW Thunderbirds and partially installed it. I am running the stop and drop spindles and am real concerned about the clearance to the lower control arm. I have only had it on the car on the hoist but I can't see how the clearance problem is going to get anything but worse when the suspension is loaded and the control arms are no longer hanging..I am in the process of tieing up all the loose ends under the car the thanks to this thread reminding me that the sway bar is one of them. within the next day or two I will have to address that and will have good information on any problems encountered and what we plan to do to fix them
Quote from: 57 imposter on 2015-10-16 11:56
I purchased a front sway bar from SW Thunderbirds and partially installed it. I am running the stop and drop spindles and am real concerned about the clearance to the lower control arm. I have only had it on the car on the hoist but I can't see how the clearance problem is going to get anything but worse when the suspension is loaded and the control arms are no longer hanging..I am in the process of tieing up all the loose ends under the car the thanks to this thread reminding me that the sway bar is one of them. within the next day or two I will have to address that and will have good information on any problems encountered and what we plan to do to fix them
Thanks to all for their input. I think I'll wait a while on the sway bars. Especially in light of your concerns. I' m anxious to hear what you have to say after everything is buttoned up.
Thanks
John
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2015-10-16 06:09
Sorry John, I don't know of any parts cars in this area where I live. The only guy I have seen referenced in other post is Steve Pierce out in Twentynine Palms, he might have some.
Do you have ant contact information for Steve Pierce?
Thanks
John
Quote from: KYBlueOval on 2015-10-16 12:57
Do you have ant contact information for Steve Pierce?
Thanks
John
Pierce, Steven
Twenty Nine Palms, Ca.
310-631-0053
Wisconsin
Conner, Randy
Wisconsin
e-mail: RLCPartman@aol.com
John...don't forget about our listings of supplier contact info...
Good point Rich.........thanks.
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2015-10-16 17:18
Pierce, Steven
Twenty Nine Palms, Ca.
310-631-0053
Wisconsin
Conner, Randy
Wisconsin
e-mail: RLCPartman@aol.com
Highball .........Thank you sir.
I'll get these contacts in my computer ASAP.
already there
http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=2599.0
I've tried many sway bars on my cars.
I took the SWT bar off as it really hung down in the front.
My current favorite, but rare, is a '59 Ford wagon/ranchero. It fits our frames, and looks like a modern style bar. Use modern sway bar brackets(at any parts catalog) and end-links. You have to put some nuts in the frame to mount the new style brackets. I cut a slot in the frame and inserted a steel strap with nuts welded to it, and welded the slot in the frame back up.
I use the original '59 brackets and template for the bolt holes off the '59 to figure out where to place it on the frame. Mark the center line of the bar in relation to the frame and then use the modern parts store brackets.
You must have at least one control arm off to get the '59 Bar in the hole, so do this when you rebuild the suspension.
I have bought the Quickor sway bar for a '59 Ford application. Have not yet installed, but this may be the best looking and functioning bar for '57-59 Fords. You have to mount the brackets to a '57 frame as mentioned above.
The SWT rear sway bar works very well on our cars. Really helps the stability. I put mine above the rear end, so it doesn't show. It gets close to the exhaust pipe so factor that in when installing or getting the exhaust done. A good bar for most cars.
When I minitubed my car 2 1/2" inches per side, the SWT rear bar was too wide. I found a '57 Cheby aftermarket sway bar was narrower and could also be mounted above the rear end. I put a strap with nut welded on in the frame, through a slot on that application as well. I shortened the endlinks too. I did have some interference with my Bear disc brake emergency brake cables as they hit the endlinks some times on a really low car.
The bars I use are not easy swaps, but with some planning and fabrication you will have bars that don't hang down and actually work.
Ok I got my SW Thunderbirds sway bar in this morning. Long story short, I relocated the mounting holes in the lower control arm inward about 3/4 of an inch to get the end links to stand vertical when the suspension is loaded. One thing to note if using this bar, which I didn't, the frame bushing bracket mounting holes are slotted so you want to make sure they are the same on both sides so the sway bar lands in the same spot on both control arms. Mine are off just a bit. won't affect anything but it would have been just as easy to do it right. other than that, I think it fit fairly well and is hell for stout.
Quick addition.....The clearance problem I anticipated is a non issue. When I loaded the front suspension, for some reason the clearance between the bar and the control arm actually increased..With any kind of luck i am done messing with front suspension.
Quote from: 57 imposter on 2015-10-17 14:16
Quick addition.....The clearance problem I anticipated is a non issue. When I loaded the front suspension, for some reason the clearance between the bar and the control arm actually increased..With any kind of luck i am done messing with front suspension.
Thanks for the update.
A question........does the bar hang down a lot , as others here on the Forum have stated. In the photos I've seen of cars with this SWT sway bar installed, it looked like it was hanging low and very noticeable. Now, maybe the only guy that will notice it is hanging low, is the guy you run over, but it does appear to hang lower than most. What is your opinion?
Thanks
John
The bar does hang down but it's all a matter of perspective depending on how tall you are or how far away. My Ranchero has Granada spindles so it sets lower in the front and you have to be further back from the car to see it. 99% of the general public wouldn't know the difference and a few of the car guys I know did notice and just commented "that is a nice sway bar and where did you get it"
IMHO the SWTB sway bar does not hang too low at all. Mine is within a 1/4" of touching the front bracket on the core support where the bolt is, and is only the wall thickness of the rubber bushing away from where it mounts to the frame. How can that be "hanging way down"?? Maybe if you weren't running a front bumper.
I do know the original sway bar that SWTB had used different mounting points, maybe it hung lower than the current version, and that is the example that Pat was using.
Keep in mind my front end is about 4" too high in these pics. That "stuff" on either side of the underside of the car, btw, is plastic bags with wiring still to be connected at the time of the photo.
I didn't see where anyone said "too low". John didn't really express his concern as being a visual or clearance problem. Now I'm just assuming clearance may be a concern since he is using 2 1/2" drop spindles. Many people including myself have had issues with clearance that don't live in the flat lands. The bar doesn't hit but the brackets do, both zerk fittings are long gone :005: I should note that I'm still sitting on 14" wheels and tires besides Granada spindles so I'm pretty low in the front.
Suede57 (Pat)...quote:
"I've tried many sway bars on my cars.
I took the SWT bar off as it really hung down in the front."
KentucyBlueOval (John):
"A question........does the bar hang down a lot , as others here on the Forum have stated. In the photos I've seen of cars with this SWT sway bar installed, it looked like it was hanging low and very noticeable."
I guess everyone has a different opinion on what is low or too low and that depends on how the car is set up, spindles/springs etc.. I consider mine as low but the bar isn't the problem as much as the high crown streets in my area.
My wagon with the SWT sway bar. Stock spindles, Aerostar springs, 215/60-15 tires.
from ground to front sway bar= 5 1/2" (lowest hanging piece of car, but hasn't been a problem)
Rob
My SWT front bar hit the ground so often it has the corner ground on one side. If go over a dip, the suspension will go down and that pushes the front of the bar down some. Concrete parking curbs are also a problem with the low hanging bar. They are usable, easy to install. and an improvement over the stock small bar, but sure hang down. I appreciate their efforts to make stuff for our cars and they do make quality parts. My clearance issue went away when I went to the '59 style bars, but it takes effort to do the conversion.
I think the bars were probably designed for stock suspension and ride height. When we start to alter that is where we run into problems. For me it's a small trade off for the improved handling. I forgot about the concrete wheel stops in parking lots :005:, when possible I back in :003:
Concrete bumpers can be an issue. Everything I own is low and over the years I have learned the "safe distance thing" to keep the car off them. Doesn't mean there haven't been some issues, plenty to be sure, but after fixing stuff it becomes easier....
Answer to the spare tire problem - a AAA card!
For a hundred bucks a year they will roll-back it up to 150 miles for free.
Had them change two 8 lug tires on my F-250 this summer in the heat.
Goodluck,
Ron.
Yes sir........I keep that same AAA/Spare Tire in my wallet as well.
I guess I've been lucky all these years. The newest car I have ever owned and still own is a 1966. I've driven old Fords all over the western US, as far north as Prince Rupert Canada and as far south as Guadalajara Mexico and have never been behind a tow truck.
Quote from: lalessi1 on 2015-10-15 10:04
I have the Quickor. The jury is still out. The bar is a 1". The bar does not come with the brackets to attach it to the frame, it uses stock '59 brackets. The clearance is VERY close to the lower control arms. I bought factory brackets on eBay, and another set from Dearborn for a 1" Mustang bar (with the same bushings as it turned out). Once installed assuming it doesn't hit the control arms it will be worth the trouble to me. I believe it is "stiffer" that the SWT bar and it will not limit front wheel backspace. A few pics....
An install update... thanks to KYBlueOval I got a dimension of 13" from the front of the frame to the center of the swaybar, about 1" further back than it was sitting. UREKA! I clamped the bar on both sides of the frame at that dimension and it was obvious that was the problem with the close clearance....I can almost put my hand between the bar and the control arm. I drilled a 1 1/2" hole in the frame for access and I will drill and tap (2) 3/8" NF holes in a 3" piece of 3/8" X 3/4" flat bar, fit it through hole and bolt the swaybar clamp down. This swaybar will make for a neat install after all. I won't have to get any welding done after all. Funny thing I drilled into a mouse (?) nest...inside the frame...
Another....
Last one...mice?