We lowered the front of my Ranchero approximately 2 1/2 inches, with the drop'em stop'em drop spindle disc brake kit.
It looks really nice, but it then made the rear look too high, I like a slight rake but it was a little too much.
Since the old leaf springs were never replaced, I thought that this would be a good time to swap them out.
I contacted McVeigh's springs, as their springs were recommended by someone on this forum.
I told him that I would like to lower the rear about 2 inches, and he said that I could use the 4 leaf spring from the custom 300, instead of the 6 leaf springs, that the ranchero used, and it should lower the car about 1 1/2 inches
Well long story short, it actually RAISED the rear height an inch or so.
So now I guess, 2 inch lowering blocks is the solution.
Any comments ?
Thanks
Can the springs be rearched and use a 1" lowering block?
No offense Ken but are you sure the shackles didn't flip when you changed out the springs? Just a thought.
What McVeighs told you would be correct if you were comparing new springs to new springs, but not replacing old springs. He would have no way of knowing how much your old springs were worn/sagging to make an accurate statement.
McVeighs told me new 6 leaf springs would raise a '57 1+ inch higher than new 4 leaf springs. The key words here are "new".It's not because of the 6 leafs having 2 extra leafs, it's because of the arch/way they are designed/made. Since your Ranchero originally came with 6 leaf springs, had you bought new 6 leaf springs instead, you'd be at least an additional inch higher than where you are now. Your old springs were worn and sagging even more than the 1" below a four leaf, that's why it got raised.
I wanted the extra leafs on my Custom for handling prurposes...so I went the oposite route than you in that I replaced old 4 leafs with new 6 leafs. My reasoning was I got the advantage of the extra lean/sway resistance, and if I didn't like the additional height, I could easily correct the height with lowereing blocks.
I agree...if the shackles didn't get reversed as Lucky mentioned, 2" lowering blocks should get you where you want.
I would be willing to bet that spring people MAKE SURE their new springs will raise an old car. Most folks replace "old worn out sagging springs" with new springs to get it back up where it should be not knowing where that is. Just a guess. :003:
Yep...that would be me for sure., lol
"No offense Ken but are you sure the shackles didn't flip when you changed out the springs? Just a thought."
No offense taken, the shackles are not flipped, the eyebolts are on the top of the shackle, I'm guessing that is right.
Quote from: kens65fb on 2016-02-19 14:47
"No offense Ken but are you sure the shackles didn't flip when you changed out the springs? Just a thought."
No offense taken, the shackles are not flipped, the eyebolts are on the top of the shackle, I'm guessing that is right.
Eyebolts are on top. My son replaced the rear springs on my retract in December and my shackles had been reversed when I bought it. New springs with the shackles not reversed makes mine where I want it.
I haven't read any rear height solutions that involved adding or removing a leaf. As a kid with no money, I would add a leaf to raise the rear of my Fords. Short leaf add strength and long leaf add height. If I had a 6 leaf set, I would take a leaf out...probably a long one. Taking a leaf out has a down side of possible spring wrap which generates wheel hop. But, the down side of adding lowering blocks gives the axle more leverage to generate spring wrap which generates wheel hop. If spring wrap is left unchecked, spring weakening at the least and possible spring breakage. You know, one modification leads to another modification to cure the previous modification. My experience was with adding a leaf to eliminate or greatly reduce spring wrap. I used springs from other makes of vehicles as long as the leaf was the same width. I like MOPAR springs because the center hole was offset front to rear different than Ford springs. Often, I would remove a long leaf and insert two shorter leafs to stiffen the spring pack without increasing the ride height. I have no science...just experience from trial and error.
What I am going to write is beyond spring engineering and more or less bull**** but it works. Has been done since the 1960s. Old Mustang drag race secret.
Taking the second longest leaf out of a 6 spring ( or so) and flipping it and putting it on top of the longest spring. tighten them down with trailer axle u-bolts. This is crazy but works, it will lower the car a lot but make the spring stiffer than with only removing a leaf or two. also it doesn't need lowering blocks. I would never recommend that procedure. But, honestly, I have done it, and it works great. Sorry for that... :003:
btw, there is a great way to get nearly about 3/4" lowering in 57 fords for free. the front spring mounts have a second set of holes that isn't drilled into the main chassis. Just drill that hole and you will be able to raise the front spring eye 1-1/2".
this is what I am talking about.
take into consideration that this changes your axle pinion angle.(sometimes it even improves on the driveshaft angle. or you can use wedge shaped shims or lowering blocks)
WOW Guenter! I never noticed those extra holes in the forward rear spring mount.
I also like the idea of removing the second longest leaf and flipping it to the top.
Just goes to show that I can learn something every day.
I'm happy with my height just the way it is, but Just in case I get ambitious, it would be something to play with to get a new look.
Good info, first I had heard of it also. Makes you wonder why it was there. Thanks for posting that Guenter.
I think the extra hole is in it so that only one part is need to be used on either the right or left side. the right side is just a flipped over left side part or vice versa..
What he said......
Good thinking Jim....
You get a star for that.
oh, yes !
but can be made good use of the second pair of holes. :003: just takes a 3/8 drill and you get 3/4 lowering for free. What I am not sure is if you will get access to the frame with the electric drill, while the body is still on the car. Didn't matter for me since the body is off anyways. Jay, I would't change the stance on your Sedan, she sits perfectly.
Quote from: Ecode70D on 2016-02-23 21:03
Good thinking Jim....
You get a star for that.
I wouldn't give out stars so quickly as I have no facts to back up my theory :003: