Hey all, I have a question about the steering box on my 57 wagon gasser. It is a manual box and there is a lot of play. We tried adjusting but no affect. I seems to be the original steering box on the car. Is there a rebuild kit for this type steering box or do I need to purchase a new/used one?
Any help would be appreciated!
(http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL1605/8561663/24201298/412727589.jpg)
Might be a good time to update to a 58 or newer box with recirculating ball instead of the worm gear style in your 57.
Haven't done the swap myself but others on here have.
rmk57, I take it that the 58 or newer box with recirculating ball will fit on a 57 car?
From what Iv'e heard, yes it is. The only issue is the horn assembly requires some mods. The 57 has the horn wire going through the steering shaft where the 58 and up have some other setup. Like I said I haven't performed this swap so my knowledge on this is limited.
What rmk57 said. It is a bolt in. I heard that the length of the 58 column is about 1 inch shorter.
Also make sure that you get the 58 pitman arm. I'm told that they do not interchange with the 57 box.
Most likely Hiball Jim will chime in, because he has had experience with this swap.
I know that you were talking about play in the steering box, but I hope that you have a panhard bar on your solid axle setup.
The pitman arm length was chosen quite well so that you don't have too much bump steer from the steering gear setup, but the short tie rod to the left makes for a lot of bump steer when you hit a hole and the steering force will shift your leavesprings sideways heavily, if you haven't got a proper panhard bar setup. sorry for getting off topic, but just what I observed from the pic.
also if you have trouble with the general steering/handling of the car, there are other important things like axle caster.
You probably know all of that anyways.
Quote from: Ecode70D on 2016-08-20 05:41
Also make sure that you get the 58 pitman arm. I'm told that they do not interchange with the 57 box.
That'll be interesting to know !
Lares Corporation in Cambridge MN can rebuild original boxes but it is a little costly.
Boxes from 57 - 64 all bolt in with their respective pitman arm. 62 - 64 use a rag joint where the 57 - 61 have the steering shaft integral with the box.
So do I rebuild the box or is it better to purchase a new one? Is rebuilding a box something that can be done at home or is it some kind of specialized task?
Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2016-08-20 06:59
That'll be interesting to know !
Jay is correct, 57and 58 pitman arms have different splines and won't inter change. I assume that is also correct for 59-64.
Quote from: Johnnyboy on 2016-08-20 09:09
So do I rebuild the box or is it better to purchase a new one? Is rebuilding a box something that can be done at home or is it some kind of specialized task?
I don't think you can find a new one and don't know what parts are available to do a rebuild. The 57 box is really a piece of crap design compared to the 58 and later ones. Rebuilding one require knowledge of setting bearing preloads and gear mesh loads, not really something for someone without that knowledge and tools.
Yeah it sucks because I just purchased a brand new daily driver and its eating up all the available cash for anything gasser related!
I have a 58 steering box with the pitman arm attached if you are interested.
ricky knight, could you PM me with more details?
Quote from: ricky knight on 2016-08-21 06:27
I have a 58 steering box with the pitman arm attached if you are interested.
How much, condition, Where are you located?
as far as i know its in good condition i am in Georgia. 100.00 plus shipping
Johnnyboy, before you replace your steering box I recommend you call Roger at Rode's Restoration(419-468-5182) as he is very well versed in the old Ford manual steering boxes and can advise you. He rebuilds with state of the art equipment and also sells reconditioned boxes.
Cool, Ill give him a call. Thanks!
If you don't mind.... try a boneyard and get the whole box, pitman arm, shaft and wheel. That way everything is there
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2016-08-20 09:16
I don't think you can find a new one and don't know what parts are available to do a rebuild. The 57 box is really a piece of crap design compared to the 58 and later ones. Rebuilding one require knowledge of setting bearing preloads and gear mesh loads, not really something for someone without that knowledge and tools.
Do you know of any written descriptions for 57 steering box rebuilds? I'm considering rebuilding a box for my Dad's car. If there are specific things that are needed to get a 57 box to work well that aren't common knowledge (or just easy to figure out when looking at the parts), I'd like to start there. I believe virtually all the parts, with the exception of the "box" itself, are available through the aftermarket. Bearings, shims, shafts all appear pretty easy to get, if needed.
I've read, although almost everything has been anecdotal, that 58-and-up boxes are "better" due to the recirculating ball design. What I've never heard are the specifics of why. I'm thinking one of the big reasons is that, as you mentioned, the design is better for less wear over time/use. So, when someone in 2016 is looking for a drop-in replacement (except for horn wire routing) that's not worn out, 58-and-up are the better bet. And, if things were still original, comparing anything newer than 59 years old was probably going to be an improvement, too! :) Obviously, there are variables regarding how worn things are, too. Replacing a 57 box with 100,000 miles with a 58+ box from a 10,000 mile car in the junkyard is great. Replacing a 10,000 mile part with the 100,000 mile part, not so great.
It would be interesting to know if there is any real difference in steering behavior (play, wheel effort) given rebuilt 57 and 58+ boxes done by knowledgeable people with good parts. Could it be said that there isn't anyone on earth who could rebuild a 57 box that will work just like 58+? Or, are there other differences in things like the steering ratio that make 58+ better? I've seen a few write-ups on this site for converting 57->58. But, if the 57 box can be rebuilt to similar specs, I'd prefer to avoid chasing down all the additional 58 parts.
Give Roger a call at the number I provided for Johneyboy in the previous reply and Roger can answer all those specific questions you have.
Johnnyboy, the 58 box is better all around than the 57 box. That is why that until Ford went to rack and pinion, it was the design choice. The 58 box offers reduced effort to steer, stronger more reliable design, and is a more compact box. I ran one in my last 57, this one has a similar box from a 63 Galaxie. Main difference is this one uses a rag joint. I choose the later boxes because the 57 is a big car, and if using normal size tires on front, are a pain in the rear to turn when stopped or at very low speeds. I also dont use the original semi truck sized steering wheel. The final reason I use the 58 box is for improved header clearance with my big block in this one, and the big tube headers I had on my last one...It's just a better box all the way around.
Worm and sector vs recirculating ball. I could see the later having a tighter feel when new, but when there worn there no screaming hell either. Biggest steering improvement I did to my 57 was put radial tires on it, made it like a brand new car.
81TTA makes a good point about replacing an ok box with a worse newer box.
Welcome by the way.
Hey all, thanks for the reply on the steering box. Im going to take your advice and get a 58 box so as not to have to change everything on the front end. I have a line on one and will get it soon. I didnt leave the site just busy with life. It was cool reading the responses to my "new member" post and fully understand everyone's views on the Ford / Chevy thing. Thanks for havin me regardless!!! I do have a 1957 Ford wagon so I will need the info and views on any other parts of the car and I believe this sight is as good as any if not better to get that!
Took a brake from the gasser build and got back into my Small engine obsession....antique/vintage Briggs and strattons and an addition to to my sickness turn of the century hit and miss engines (no Fords or Chevys in there) Thanks again and if you see the "Talks Cheap" gasser at the Hunnert car heads up or the Melt down drags at Byron Dragway come on over and give me some **** Ill be glad to take it!
I seem to remember talking to an old timer and he told me a lot of small engine builders would use model-T rods and pistons as the cost of buying them made it foolish to even think of making them. So maybe there is a bit of Ford in those old engines you love
Zap - :unitedstates: