My '57 Ranch Wagon came with a padded dash which I didn't like and removed before the car got a new coat of interior paint. Now I've got the wagon back with a nice looking "conventional" steel dash with a fresh coat of paint. Problem now is that the interior molding (garnish molding) that fits between the dash and the bottom of the windshield does not line up properly, nor do the bottom of the vertical pieces on the A pillars. I should of thought of this before, but I didn't, so now I'm wondering if the "fix" is a matter of finding molding pieces from a '57 with a steel dash, or is the solution more complicated than this (probably)? Thanks for any suggestions, Ron.
With a metal dash, there is a continuous rubber strip that fits between the garnish moldings and the dash... available from the 57 parts suppliers. Without the rubber strip, you probably have a little gap between the garnish moldings and the dash.
Manny
Manny
My garnish molding from the padded dash has those same rubber pieces, so apparently they were used with both padded and metal dashes. I've been searching the web for pictures of '57 wagon dashboards and have noticed that the padded dashes came with a stainless trim piece that runs all along the dash above the radio, clock, heater controls, etc., and even flares up in a decorative pattern under the vertical garnish molding pieces that screw into the A pillars. My car, which came from the factory with the padded dash, has that piece installed. I am continuing to search for a few more pictures on the web to be sure, but I think I have to remove that trim piece on my dash in order for the garnish moldings to fit properly. If that's the answer to why my garnish molding is not lining up and fitting the way it should, I'll have some holes to fill and a dash to repaint, but that's not a big issue at this stage of my re-assembly project.
Thanks, Ron...
Manny
Just fyi, I removed the decorative stainless trim from the dash that apparently came only with the padded dash option and now the garnish molding pieces are lining up as they should. The rubber inside the molding you mentioned is hard and brittle, though, so this part of my project won't get done until the new rubber pieces that I ordered this afternoon get here from Dennis Carpenter.
Thanks for your input to my post.
Ron...
If you go to the general discussion section I posted a picture of my ranchero interior regarding the ranchero interior trim question, mine also had a padded dash originally so I left the trim pieces and didn't have a problem with the other trim pieces fitting.
I actually went the other way (what else is new,lol). I added 1/2 dense padding to my dash and was totally surprised when all the window garnish rails and pillar cover fit with no mods. I did not use/install the rubber gasket though.
Rich, how did you apply the foam padding to the dash, stick it on with glue ? Are there photos somewhere in your build threads? I would also love to reapply padding without spending $500 for a ne repro black one.
Basically, yes...a glue down, but believe me that way oversimplifies the process. Even a low density foam is gonna fight you forming around all those bends and curves.
Mine was only doable without an upholsterer I believe because I reshaped my dash minimizing the contours that the materials had to be formed around. After I reshaped the dash, I spent what seemed a zillion hours getting both the low density foam glued down, 5 or 6 coats of liquid rubber (roofing supply)applied to firm up the foam, then smoothed off, and stretching the vinyl over it. It takes an unusually stretchable vinyl and you have to be very aware of which way you're cutting the material because it stretches more one way than the other. Also have to be very careful how you start gluing down...can't start on the flat area, have to start with the material already starting to go around the "bends", if that makes any sense. Have to keep reapplying glue as your going because the contact cement is only effective for a few hours. I think it took about 5 or 6 hours just to apply the vinyl.
Years ago I saw an article on how they manufactured the repops, and it is done with a vacumn enclosure system...similar to the storage bags you see where you hook up a vacumn cleaner to the bag after it's packed and suck all the air out. It pulls the vinyl down against the supported foam.
Very very difficult job to do with results barely acceptible. Best way is to have an upholsterer do it with sewn seams. If I could sew, that's what I would have done.
I've got pics, but it'll take a while to find them.
I sympathize with your efforts. I wanted to put a TBird dash in my '57. Good luck finding a '65 Thunderbird dash that isn't cracked or the right color or that fits a '57. I joined about three inches of the firewall side of a '57 dash to the 'Bird dash. After stripping off the foam, the leading edge of the donor dash was a sharp edge of the flat sheet metal. I molded in 1/2 tubing to soften the leading edge. High density, 1/2" foam was glued and molded over the top and leading edge of the dash. Using a 5" course grinding disc, several areas were shaped. The vinyl is a thick, high quality, stretchable type. There is a French seam running the entire leading edge. It took three of us most of the day to glue, apply, steam, and stretch the cover over the many contours of the TBird dash. Fortunately, the Thunderbird dash has conveniently located stainless trim for covering starting/stopping points.
You did a great job on that Gary! I had assumed you had a great dash to start with...apparently not!
wow that looks gorgeous. I also have a 65 Tbird dash but plan on using it in a future HotRod build, not in a 57. did the dashpad on my 62 Comet, but it has a much simpler shape than a 57. I also used very soft and stretching vinyl, but used 1/2" thick fleece instead of foam. Just recently came across this 57 for sale on ebay and it has a very nice custom upholstered dashpad. Maybe the rolls and pleats are not to everybodys taste, but then again they cover up some of the wrinkles on the difficult areas.
not my car, just what I found on the internet. still interested in how yours came out Rich.
"still interested in how yours came out Rich.".........
I could only find a few pics. The first third one shows the dash ready for the vinyl with the rubber roofing coating over the low density foam. I cannot emphasize enough how much this improves the feel of the padding. I think it substantially adds to the safety factor for the padded dash.
next pic shows the original tan vinyl installed. LOL...I had forgotten that I did the dash twice. At some point I decided I didn't like the tan color I was using and drove to Dallas to find something in a softer color.....and spent another few days recovering. Found some pics of the dash/console progression..so here they all are.
found some more probably never posted here. This sure was a time for many projects coming to a head.......... wiring, A/C mounting/vents,windshield washer hard arms and motor relocation,steering column mounting and functionality, etc etc
getting astray here, lol....
Every show I go to, somebody will ask what the dash and console came out of.
what a huge amount of work involved here!!! I like the idea of using rubber coating on the foam. I will have to rethink my strategy a few times.
:unitedstates:you guys do some amazing things. racton
Rich
Beautiful work on the dash, center console, door panels, and all else. What a huge amount of work! Question: what is the sound deadener I see you used on the floors? I'm curious if it's an effective and less expensive alternative to Dynamat? Thanks, Ron
It's self adhesive roofing underlayment....often called ice shield. Definetly less expensive. As efficient? who knows, probably not, But I also have 3/8 aluminum covered felt-like carpet padding (can't remember the name). I have no big issues with sound or heat comming off the floor...at least that I can hear with all the wind noise coming thru the doors, lol.
"what a huge amount of work involved here!!! I like the idea of using rubber coating on the foam. I will have to rethink my strategy a few times."
Tons of work...one thing leading to another. In that pic looking down on the cowl, you can see the first version of the wiper hard arm system I had to go with so that I could use the Mustang wiper motor, which was needed to make the wiper switch on the steering column function...lol..until this morning I thought I had the only 50's car around with variable speed intermittent wipers.
DJ....Here in the states that coating is sold under the name "Snow Roof". It can be brushed on, but it does not flow out well at all, so any brush marks will show. It took forever to sand it smooth enough. Gluing down vinyl is just like paint...it doesn't hide much, just emphasizes flaws. If I do anything else, I'll experiment with foam brushes, maybe even reducing for spraying, but the stuff is pretty thick. It is white, and when I recovered the dash the second time I had the not-so-briliant idea of trying the aerosol rubber coating sold everywhere over here. My thoughts were maybe a smoother finish, but it wasn't and also it does not adhere well to the white rubber I already had on there.
Rich, isn't it amazing how we come up with new ideas to make live difficult all the time ? :003:
It is exactly like your statemant of ' I can do that, yes, I ...well...' and then we're stuck again in the middle of a huge problem that causes further problems and so on... I can only imagine how many hours you spent in planning and actually building your dash. it came out great ! I think I know the rubber paint you mean. It is available here to paint whitewalls on tires and it really feels like rubber ( of course it doesn't last on tires). My friend works in an orthopaedist business and they are making special wheel chairs and seats for disabled people. they use natural rubber foam and before covering it with vinyl they use rubber paint. I will ask him what it is. I know that he is sanding their foam and rubber to match the patients figure, all the time.