howdy,
would it be possible for someone with a pretty stock 292 setup to post some photos of the wiring involved around the battery/starter, etc? mine came missing the battery and maybe a couple wires I don't know (at least one of the battery cables), but it also has some wires that's seen better days just hanging around not attached to anything. i'd like to know what the wires are supposed to look like, where things are supposed to attach to (like the ground even), and what I might be missing. generator to regulator seems alright, just some of that other stuff.
http://www.auto-wiring-diagram.com/1206-complete-electrical-wiring-diagram-of-1957-ford-fairlane-500-300-custom-300-and-thunderbird.html
that diagram is great for finding og wire colors under dash aso but I think what he needs are actual photos of that area.
I couldn't find any in my files but will take some tomorrow. Whats sitting next to the battery is the starter solenoid and the (smaller) horn relais directly above. some of it and the og wire loom can be seen here
The second picture pretty much covers it.
- larger wire exiting the picture to the left goes to the starter
- larger wire exiting the picture to the right is the positive battery cable
- the harness running from the positive side of the starter relay:
- larger yellow wire powers most of the vehicle accessories...it goes all the way to the headlight switch
- one wire goes to the horn relay (three prong connector, other prong goes to the right side of the starter relay and the third wire goes to the horn) and goes to the base of the steering box to hook into the horn button wire
- the red wire on the right top of the starter relay goes to the start side of the ignition switch to run the starter in crank mode
- the other left top wire of the starter relay bypasses the ignition resistor at the distributor for full 12v to the points in crank mode
- there is one other in the harness from the ignition switch but terminates about half way to power the distributor
- battery negative cable is barely visible in the upper right corner (yellow) and is attached to the head or block
nice, greatly appreciate.
that straightens out a lot for me.
I think im better off than I thought. missing the battery ground. (looks like it's attached to the bolt holding the dipstick.) the thing that was throwing me off on mine was the red wire on the left going to nowhere, and the wire from the starter going to nowhere.
looks like someone was going to replace that beat out starter wire and never finished. I should be able to hook up that red wire, remove the beat out starter wire, and add a battery ground.
here's what mine looks like now.
It appears the starter relay and the horn relay are connected correctly. There are two starter cables. The red one needs to be connected to the stud on the starter replacing the tattered black one. By the way, my starter cable looked much like your black one and served for a couple of years before I changed it. Your red starter cable needs some corrosion maintenance on the starter relay end. The dipstick bolt was used for the ground cable connection on mine. If this was the OEM location or not, it is not the best. A dedicated bolt to the block with a star washer would be better.
link to star washer image:
https://www.google.com/search?q=star+washer&tbm=isch&imgil=jsKJRjtKH4wiQM%253A%253B0xyRrn9uJXYZqM%253Bhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.belmetric.com%25252Fmetric-star-washers-c-4_38%25252F&source=iu&pf=m&fir=jsKJRjtKH4wiQM%253A%252C0xyRrn9uJXYZqM%252C_&usg=__fNSPwJTH85-8qBIM82gPRZnRu40%3D&biw=1366&bih=651&ved=0ahUKEwjgwfWtitrTAhWDz4MKHf0eCTgQyjcIfQ&ei=HCINWeDDFoOfjwT9vaTAAw#imgrc=jsKJRjtKH4wiQM:&spf=197
Just one more thing...
Günter ....You need to replace those red tie wraps on the front end shims with factory approved Ford blue ones. There is no way that they will pass TÜV inspection. You know how tough they are and how they like to pick on every tiny little thing..
Swank
Sorry to have butt into your thread .
It's too late Jay, the inspection dudes are Chevy guys, so they were comfortable with the orange tie wraps....haha... after that I needed to show them why the 58 Corvette they were wrenching on would stall when braking. Should have seen their eyes when I pulled the stop light wires and it wouldn't stall anymore. Told them to check and replace the weak ignition coil, which they did, and there you go....it runs again like it's supposed to be....hahaha....as good as such a tractor will.... :003:
Anyways here is a detailed shot of the area from my car. appears to be all og.
Garry has very well summed up all the terminal connections and wires.
This really has nothing to do with this topic, but I got a kick out of the picture where you are looking down at the exhaust manifold and you can see green grass. I tell everyone that I know I'm in trouble when I open the hood of one of my newer cars or pickups and can not see the toes of my shoes. Nothing is simple anymore.
very true !
Gary really knows his stuff. He always has the answers about our old 57's
Alvin... times have really changed. We're usually able to fix our old cars on the side of the road and get going again. You are right nothing is simple anymore. Now if we break down, we need a phone and a tow truck.
Guenter...Sorry to hear that those inspection guys like those off brand things. Good thing for you that you were able to show them what was wrong with their silly 58 Tupperware toy.
Quote from: Ecode70D on 2017-05-07 07:18
Alvin... times have really changed. We're usually able to fix our old cars on the side of the road and get going again. You are right nothing is simple anymore. Now if we break down, we need a phone and a tow truck.
Jay you forgot to mention a boat load of cash also :003:
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2017-05-07 08:09
Jay you forgot to mention a boat load of cash also :003:
Thank you Jim. That is so true. Nothing on these new cars is reasonable priced. It cost big bread to have the TECHNICIANS hook up a computer to it so the computer can tell them what is wrong.
Hey, I wrote a bunch of that software!
thanks everybody for the info.
got it cleaned up a bit and hooked up. trying to get it cranked by it's birthday on the 10th. put a little marvels in the plug holes the day before, then hand turned it slow to make sure all the valves moved. after getting the wiring straight (thanks to the fine information here) and stealing the battery out the wifes miniature van, all the lights worked, dash lights, headlights, turn signals, horn, brake lights, etc, ...and it turned over. didn't fire, but the distributor/coil stuff looked like it spent the last decade as an offshore application. so i'll be tracking that down next, don't know if im going to make it by the 10th, but we'll see.
Swank
Stick with it!! You will get it running.
one thing I ran into, just to make sure im looking at this right.
I think the coil might have been wired up incorrectly (which I had left that way on my cranking test run).
I put up a couple photos from after the rodent nests were gone. it has a red wire from the harness going to the resistor, then a wire from the resistor going to the "dist" terminal on the coil. then a black wire from the harness going to the "batt" terminal of the coil and also a wire going to the distributor from the "batt" term on the coil.
from my understanding, the distributor wire should be going to the "dist" (or negative) terminal on the coil, and the black wire from the relay/harness should be going to the "batt" (positive) terminal along with a wire from one side of the resistor. at least that's what I think the diag says.
since im replacing all this stuff, rather not hook it up wrong and burn something new out.
You are on the right track. The red wire from the harness goes to the ballast resistor, then from the resistor to the + side of the coil. The brown wire from the harness also goes to the + side of the coil, that wire bypasses the resistor to provide a full 12V power to the coil when the ignition switch is in the start position. Your picture shows it connected to the - side which is wrong. There should only be one black wire going from the - coil post to the distributor.
right on right on, thankyavermuch.
now just the agony of waiting on parts in the mail.