Hi
Im in the process of installing my 302/c4 into my Custom 300,6cyl manual car and Im having some issues.
It seems that i cant get the tranny back far enough to get the mount studs into the crossmember,i have slotted the holes as much as i dare and slotted the mount holes as well.
When I get the studs to within 1 inch of the crossmember holes the oil pan hits the engine crossmember, my engine is out of a 77 Mustang and has the front sump.
Any ideas?
Anyone use Butch's mount kits? Looking on their website it looks like there is a spacer plate to locate the tranny mount further back,thus allowing the sump to clear
Thanks,John
Cant you weld or get someone to weld a piece of 2" flatbar to the front your cross member to extend it a bit?
That was another thought,I can weld no problem,just wondering if there were any other ideas out there.
Cheers,John
X2 on welding a little extension to the cross member.
I'm not sure of the difference in a 6 cylinder and 8 cylinder frame. I used '64 Galaxie 289 mounts to install 351w into the wagon which was originally a 292 frame. I had to shim the block to mounts about 3/4" to bring the bottom of the pan up to the bottom of the cross member. I used an AOD which is longer than the C4 so I'm not much help there.
It looks like a 3/16 plate 7 inX4 in should work,I believe the crossmembers are the same no matter which engine trans was installed
Off to Metal Mart I go
Keep ya posted
John :canada:
Gary, it seems you kept the factory trans crossmember without cutting?! Asking, because I am also willing to use an AOD in the wagon.
Quote from: gasman826 on 2018-02-02 11:08
X2 on welding a little extension to the cross member.
I'm not sure of the difference in a 6 cylinder and 8 cylinder frame. I used '64 Galaxie 289 mounts to install 351w into the wagon which was originally a 292 frame. I had to shim the block to mounts about 3/4" to bring the bottom of the pan up to the bottom of the cross member. I used an AOD which is longer than the C4 so I'm not much help there.
Ooops, wrong picture. Yes, I initially had the OEM cross member with the AOD. I didn't like the fitment of the transmission mount. It bolted in but I just didn't like the fit. That picture shows no exhaust pipes and the OEM transmission pan. To remove the pan, the cross member had to come out. The back of the pan is beveled. The larger, aluminum pan would not fit and I didn't want to fight 2-1/2" exhaust pipes or I should say the heat of pipes against the floor.
ok, thank you Gary. your new crossmember looks very sturdy and running the pipes below is a huge benefit.
I used the stock cross member with a couple of modifications. 351C/AOD, 63/64 Galaxie motor mounts with a 3/4" spacer between the frame and motor mount. Transmission mount is from a 2001 Explorer 2wd 302/AOD. Exhaust pipes are 71 351C Mustang "H" heavily modified.
Victory is mine,once I made a spacer plate to move the tranny mount back it pretty much dropped in.
John :canada:
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2018-02-03 08:19
I used the stock cross member with a couple of modifications. 351C/AOD, 63/64 Galaxie motor mounts with a 3/4" spacer between the frame and motor mount. Transmission mount is from a 2001 Explorer 2wd 302/AOD. Exhaust pipes are 71 351C Mustang "H" heavily modified.
I have the same engine, transmission and motor mounts, for my Ranchero, but not installed as of yet.........but very soon. I'd like some more information on the 3/4 " spacer you used.
Why was there a need for the spacer?
Is the spacer the same basic rectangle shape as the motor mount ?
Thanks!
John
John I spaced the mount from the engine. The oil pan on the 351C I have is deeper then the 289/302 front sump pans. Putting the spacer in there gave me right at 1/2" oil pan clearance with the front cross member. I just used some scrap stuff I had, drilled the7/16" hole through and cut them to cover the boss on the block then grade 8 bolts.
Bill
I have a similar mount to Bill's on my 4R70W also ended up with a spacer. Reasons for doing or needing it can vary from build to build. I needed to rotate the engine up and away from the firewall as much as possible (and still keep the engine within 3 degrees of level). I found that whatever spacer I added at the tranny rotated the engine up and away from the firewall the same amount.
Bill and Rich.........Thank you. I now understand what you both did.