Just got this car last October from my Dad who is fighting ALS; he purchased it from his brother a few years ago, I think around 2010 before he was diagnosed. My uncle picked it up sometime in the late 80's in Arkansas. I cleaned it up a bit and pulled out the old rotten truck mat, transmission work and generator rebuild were done before I got it. Just changed the oil this weekend and have sparkplugs /wires on the way. Hoping to upgrade brakes, have a leak at the firewall on the MC...looking into disk front but not sure if I want to lose the 14"s with the hubcaps.
Trying to document things as I find them / do them; I like a car with a story!
Here is a link to my google photos album:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mUrj7oGnWOHmKJPk1
Looks like a nice solid project!
I believe there are some 14" wheels that will work with discs. Or you could go to 15's with the old dog dish style caps.
Good luck with it. Sorry to hear about your dad's diagnosis.
Thanks Marc! The main thing I'm worried about is metal work...the frame looks good but the rocker panels are not so great and I don't have any experience in metal working. I figured I would just focus on mechanical issues first :). Engine is a little cold blooded but after the oil change it helped quite a bit. Can't wait to see what she does with a new fuel filter, plugs and wires. I'm pretty sure it's all from the 89!
New plugs and wires should help. Has it sat for a long time? Any rubber components in the fuel system should be replaced.
Around 6 years at my dad's place, not sure how frequently my uncle drove it. I know it has a new fuel sending unit, but other than that I am unsure. Neighbor was over last week and said he thought the carb was running rich but the float was stuck before he came over and dumped a bunch of gas before I caught it. I
also see a small exhaust leak on one of the manifolds, so I am hoping there are some after market headers around.
After replacing my spark plugs and wires the engine runs worse! I now have a misfire. I checked to make sure all the wires were seated and all the spark plugs were gapped to .034", any ideas?
Since you replaced the plug wires, first thing I would check would be that the firing order is correct, that the wires are in the proper sequence. Also check that the cap & rotor look OK, and the dwell(point gap) is good. Look for signs of carbon tracking inside the distributor cap.
Quote from: 59meteor on 2018-05-05 17:14
Since you replaced the plug wires, first thing I would check would be that the firing order is correct, that the wires are in the proper sequence. Also check that the cap & rotor look OK, and the dwell(point gap) is good. Look for signs of carbon tracking inside the distributor cap.
Yup....rule number one when a new unexpected problem crops up....what's the last thing I did?
Double checked the wires last night with no luck there. I've got it on jack stands right now so I'll have to check the dis cap and dwell later...with any luck if it is that, I already have a new cap.
Got the front right tore down to the spindle, starting disc brake upgrade. I went with the Wilwood Classic Series Dynalite Front Brake Kits 140-13653,Wilwood Brake Flexline Kits 220-8307, and Cardone Select New Master Cylinders 13-1394. Still waiting for the mc to arrive.
Brakes done on both sides. Working on re-routing the lines for the new Mc.
looks good...keep the pics and posts coming!
Are your brake hose frame brackets in the stock location?
I assume so, unless someone before me moved them. I can try to get a closer picture if you want
I will be installing the same Wilwood kit on my 59 this weekend, so I would like to see some close ups of the brake lines too. Did you use straight, 45 or 90 degree fittings in the caliper body, and if you used angled fittings, did you point the hose end pointing up, down, or to the front or rear? Are you happy with the 18" length of hose?
90° with the outlet vertical for the hose connection;my reason... it's just what the 18'' hose kit came with. Length seems a little long but I haven't gotten to putting on the wheels and checking clearance and such with them turned.
Did some more work today on the brake upgrade. Eliminated the 3way T that the mc hooked into and extended the front and rear lines with unions. Got my T with 1/8 npt for the brake light switch and put it in line with the rear brakes(Allstar Performance ALL50137 3/16" Inverted Flare Tee with 1/8" NPT). Mc is bench bled and I'm just waiting for my 1/2 20 thread to 3/8 24 thread adapter(Edelmann 258350 Fitting) to come in for my rear brake connection to the MC that I didn't realize I needed until I had everything else. Hopefully I can get the MC in /done tomorrow after work and start to bleed out the brakes!
Master Cylinder is installed, just need to get the brakes bled out and check for leaks at the connections! What are you guys using for push rods? The one on the car was/is too short as there was slop before the rod makes contact with the MC.
You didn't mention if you used the concentric bolt on the brake peddle arm to adjust the rod?
What is the master from?
I guess I didn't look to hard for an adjustment on the pedal, but I'm guessing it's not enough. It's for a 67 Ford/lincon/Mercury. Cardone 13-1394 . The pushrod on the car has threads on the end but just slides into the mc, no threads to screw into on the original or new mc. You can kind of see it stick out of the firewall on my previous post.
Sorry can't be much help I'm not familiar with that master. Mine is from a Mustang and only has two outlet ports on the side and worked with the stock push rod and a slight adjustment of the eccentric bolt.
From what I can see that may be for a larger car with power brakes, check the bore diameter..
Quote from: 59meteor on 2018-05-05 17:14
Since you replaced the plug wires, first thing I would check would be that the firing order is correct, that the wires are in the proper sequence. Also check that the cap & rotor look OK, and the dwell(point gap) is good. Look for signs of carbon tracking inside the distributor cap.
So I pulled all the spark plugs, rechecked gap, recheck wires, checked the dis cap...issue was still there. I had forgotten that I replaced the air filter as well. After I removed it the engine runs fine again :icon_cheers:, must have been restricting too much air flow.
Sweet!
Love the "Class of '57"
Cheers,John :canada:
Got a new push rod (RSD-RC14) from summitracing.com. Works great, had plenty of adjustment, stock hardware worked and the pedal feels way better now. :001:
Decided I was done messing with points... was still having issues after letting the car run for awhile then getting on the gas, PerTronix Ignitor II Solid-State Ignition Systems 91281 and PerTronix Flame-Thrower II Ignition Coils 45011 on the way from summit racing!
Found the last picture I had of my 1964 Ford Falcon Futura 2-door hardtop. It was a project I started with my Dad that we never finished up, sold it to my Aunt and Uncle to make room for the 57.
Nice, that'd bring a few buck up here in my neck of the woods!
We pulled the straight 6 and put a 302 in it and disk brakes all around, 2001 ford explorer rear w/ 3.73 gears and posi. needed wired, exhaust, and some metal work done still. Hoping I'll get to see it again once my uncle gets done. Last I heard was working on floor pans and putting in a mustang 2 rack and pinion
I love that Falcon. We had one of that vintage at our rt66 meet last saturday night. Bright yellow..........didn't like it.
Been awhile, here is an update!
Disk brakes done, need to re-do the flare on the passenger side... isn't quite right and I get a little leak when I stand on the brake. Over all its MUCH better than before. Pertronix ignitor ii 91281 and PerTronix Flame-Thrower II Ignition Coil 45011 installed. Reset the timing but I still feel like its a little off. Cant see anything with the timing light except the main mark so struggling a bit to get it right. I get it to where it sounds right but it bogs down and dies when you put it in drive once warmed up, but thats not really a new issue after the pertronix was put in but it does start easier. Engine also struggles after getting on the gas a bit...but again not sure if its issue with my timing or if its a carburetor / vacuum issue. If I get it tuned up then I think I will look into some exhaust next since there are pinholes in quite a few places, otherwise I'll be looking into a new 2bbl carb for it.
Finally got around to checking my casting stamps:
Intake manifold: ECG-9425-H
Heads: ECZ-G
Block: EDB (by distributor so a dearborn block)
One of the first things I check with old carbs is the throttle shaft, is there play which will allow a vacuum leak? You can tune, adjust and rebuild all day long until this issue is addressed. This is often overlooked.
That is great advice, I never would have thought to look at that. Ill make sure to check out when I do the tear down. I got a rebuild kit today and new fuel filter so I think I'll try to get to this over the weekend. Never rebuilt a carburetor before but it looks to be a autolite/motorcraft 2100 1.08 (287 cfm) off of a 69 mustang 302. Sounds like its a pretty straight forward rebuild as far as carbs go so wish me luck!
Quote from: Geeksum on 2019-07-03 18:00...Never rebuilt a carburetor before but it looks to be a autolite/motorcraft 2100 1.08 (287 cfm) off of a 69 mustang 302. Sounds like its a pretty straight forward rebuild as far as carbs go so wish me luck!
These are very simple carbs & very easy to work on and you really don't need this manual' but ...
An excellent manual on the Autolite/Motorcraft 2100 two barrel carbs.
Also a link for the Autolite/Motorcraft 4100 four barrel carbs that share many common parts with the 2100 two barrel. Used both of them for many decades. Bought little rebuild kits but used very few of the parts in 'em since they weren't needed.
https://fordsix.com/archive/www.classicinlines.com/2100A.html
NOTE: Page 1 in that link shows a Holley carb, the wrong carb, ignore it.
If you click on the individual photos/pages they will greatly enlarge.
Here is the Autolite/Motorcraft 4100 manual.
https://fordsix.com/archive/www.classicinlines.com/4100A.html
Do not lose the little 'discharge ball check' when you turn the carb over after removing the nozzle bar. It can fall right out & disappear into space.
X2 what Tom said. Very easy to rebuild just take caution NOT to over tighten the little 4 screw covers for the accelerator pump and power valve, these can warp easily and then they leak.