On a previous post someone mentioned that a 57 Ford master cylinder could be upgraded to a 1968 dual master cylinder. My question is does the bake pedal rod would need any modifications? or just remove and install new?
On the 1957 ford forum on evil facebook someone posted a brief how-to using a raybestos MC36222 dual master cylinder. Uses the stock pushrod, and no need for a proportioning valve if you are still using drums all around. Just bolt it in and re-plumb the lines from the MC to the splitter on the frame. That master cylinder fits a '67 - '72 Ford Custom 500.
Thank you
I just installed dual master cylinder and bleed out post install. I notice pedal sit a little bit lower than before would that be because of the dual chambers?
Quote from: Marc on 2018-09-09 04:44On the 1957 ford forum on evil facebook someone posted a brief how-to using a raybestos MC36222 dual master cylinder. Uses the stock pushrod, and no need for a proportioning valve if you are still using drums all around. Just bolt it in and re-plumb the lines from the MC to the splitter on the frame. That master cylinder fits a '67 - '72 Ford Custom 500.
The brake light switch seems to be an issue with this master cylinder though.
I just put in a booster with a two cylinder master cylinder, drum drum no disc. Now to plumb the system from a single line down to both front and rear, I was told no proportioning valve needed with out disc. How do I plum this system?
I have a Tee on the frame rail in front of the master. I used it for the front brakes. The rear line goes to the junction block on the rear axle for the back brakes. I didn't use a hydraulic brake light, I have a contact switch on the brake pedal.
Lynn
If using a brake light pressure switch, plumb it into the front brakes. Under light brake pressure, the front brake pressure activates before the rears.