First I must give a BIG Thank You to CorbraJoe, for his guidance and tutorials on how to post photos.
Next, I must make a full disclosure as to the who has done the vast majority of the work that you'll see in the photos I'll post. I did some, but the majority was done by a friend, that in my opinion is a metal magican.
I'll start with the day I dug it out of a 8 year hibernation and loaded it on a trailer.
I've "borrowed" a lot of ideas from Forum Members as you'll see in the photos that follow. So here we go!
(https://i.imgur.com/7lEL0C4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9oHDFH1.jpg)
ALLRIGHT!!! looking forward to it. I'd suggest however, before you get too fat, that you post in the build thread area. It'll be easier to find later.
lol......"before you get too far".....that's what happens when you have one FAT finger.
8 year hibernation......? have you owned it that long, or the person you bought it from had it in storage that long. I'm assuming since you were loading it on a trailer, that was not your garage it was stored in.
Rich, the 8 years in the garage was during the previous owners' possession. Once on the trailer, it was taken to my house/garage to further take it apart. I'll try posting some more photos, with some commentary as to what is in the photos. Stay tuned
These photos show the elimination of the Gas Door. I moved it to Behind the Left Tail Light. Guenter did this, but his light swings in, mine slides out. When Closed or Open it is held in place by Earth Magnets. It slides out on a ball bearing drawer slide.
(https://i.imgur.com/H8oPkwr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LEveF8R.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oUE8fDG.jpg)
Stole this Third Brake Light Idea from Ford Blue Blood.........Thanks Bill!
(https://i.imgur.com/bi1l5MT.jpg)
New Rockers, and lower quarters were installed. Front of wheel well opening was brought down straight for bigger wheel tire fitment and easier in and out per the advice from the Forum
A major problem with Rancheroes is where does the water go that gets into the Bed. Answer.....somewhere below, floors,truck bed support pieces. Our solution was to replace the left to right support piece with a Stainless piece and create a "Gutter" for the water to run into. The gutter is Stainless and if you look closely, you'll see two drains and two holes in the driveshaft tunnel. A hose will connect the two. Will it work? We hope so. Looks good on paper. Time will tell
(https://i.imgur.com/gWMx3wo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lRhn8P7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mm1RFgp.jpg)
If you are wondering about the "Boxes" you see, they are storage boxes, accessed from inside the cab, behind the seats.As you know there is very little storage inside a Ranchero cab. Some Rancheros have the access opening and some do not. These are aluminum, wrapped in Dynamat and a similar product on the one on the right. There is a light that goes in the front corner of each box.
(https://i.imgur.com/AtG8t5M.jpg)
I'll post more tomorrow and in the days to come. Time to watch collage football!
Awesome pics John, looking forward to more!!!!! :109:
Stunning work on your Ranchero, John! Fantastic ideas like the ss raingutters and storage boxes. love how you used the drawer slide for the taillight/ filler access ! it is great to see that kind of work on a project! this makes me want to go out and start working again on my Del Rio project. looking forward to seeing more of your teamwork.
Looking good John.
(https://i.imgur.com/dYSkky6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OCE419r.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Lkn1Npb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/anVWYov.jpg)
I wanted to use rectangular AC vents to the left of the instrument cluster and to the right of the glove box, but as many before me have figured out........it won't work. On a whim, I placed the AC vent on what I'll call the Dog Leg of the dash, and my buddy Tommy said We can make that work. So duct work was made and the Vintage Air vents fit in there nicely. The AC evaporator mount can be seen on the right side of the fire wall. Have not gotten around to installing the center vents in the dash. Same Vintage Air Vent, just a little wider.
(https://i.imgur.com/anVWYov.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QKAojkb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kp0313C.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fyfCvis.jpg)
Have not finished the transmission mount as of yet. That will be done soon. Wheels and tires are not what I'll run.......they are what I had, and I stuck them on to roll it around. Rear brake flex lines are too long. I'll get them shortened in time. Blue tape on bolt heads is remind me to tighten them later when there is fully assembled weight on the frame
(https://i.imgur.com/RIZ5UTy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TLM79ok.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Tagei7v.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/k6cjUTZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6rSgAuo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/v8nfw6x.jpg)
Looking really good John! Keep on keeping on....it'll get there!
Hmmm, typed a reply earlier and I guess I forgot to hit the post button before I left the page.
Looking really great, John. The pics show an obvious attention to detail and a substantial amount of preplanning. Execution is remarkable. I love the end of dash vent outlets...very original thinking there. I'm curious if you are planning a non-oem emergency brake setup? The reason I ask is the original cable firewall pass-thru location seems to be welded closed.
I think it was covered in an older thread, but what did you end up using for the upper control arm shafts? Are those the adjustable '58's?
What is your front disc/spindle setup?
Is that one of John Sparks R&P setups, or Unisteer?
Rich, Thank you. As to the emergency brake........I'm using a '68 Ford Foot Operated unit. I believe there is a hole for it. I'll bolt it up next time I'm at the car and show you the installation. The e-brake location and its use, was part of the thinking that resulted in the wiper motor/gearbox being recessed.
The Upper control arms are '58 Ford/Edsel. I picked them up at the Edsel convention, here in Louisville a couple of years ago. The Front Disc set up is from Drop m Stop m. 2 Piston Mustang calipers, and a 2 1/2" drop. The R&P is a John Sparks set up. You didn't ask, but the rear brakes are 2001 Ford Explorer, and the rear end has been narrowed 3/4" on each side, and has Moser axles. Picked up a Hydro Boost last winter in Birmingham Alabama, that I'm told will work with the brakes I have
I'll take some more photos when I work on it again this week, and post them, now that this Old Dog has learned a new trick.
Good idea with foot operated brake. When changing over to rear discs, it's almost imposible to get enough pressure on the hand pulled cable to actually be able to use it as an emergency brake, at least for an old dude with little arm strength left. Parking brake application barely works. If I still lived in Colorado, I would have already converted to a foot operated.
Ha, had a long senior moment this year. I had tried several times to adjust the cable so the parking brake would actually work. I knew I was going to the NSRA show and needed it to work to pass inspection. Did a last adjustment, got distracted, and never did check it before I left for the show. There were 4 guys checking everything on the car, and one told me to get in while they checked all the starting safety things, then told me to put it in park, put my foot on the brake, and set the emergency brake. He told me to put it in drive and take my foot off the brake. I thought, sheeeeet, here goes my inspection, but it held. What was my senior moment, you may be wondering?.........I don't think I ever had my foot on the brake in the past when I tried to set the parking brake.........DUH!!!! I rarely use it in any of my cars.
I did get the highest inspection sticker they give out......the "safety 23"
Great work John. It's really coming along nice!
Here are some photos of the Flat floor behind the seat. Used 13 Ga for the flat floor. The two raised pieces in the first photo are bases for what I'll call"Pull Outs", that attach to these bases. They are constructed of a pair of ball bearing drawer slides and a flat platform to which, on the passenger side, the fuse panel mounts and on the driver side, the computer mounts. When you need to access either, you slide them out from under the seat. Easier then getting up under the dash. I'll post a photo of the actual pieces I'm referring to at a later date, as they are made and put away.
(https://i.imgur.com/eAcEZsq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NPLac0p.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Z2seMJR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MkReh39.jpg)
Cut the dash for the center AC vents and modified the ash tray for a 12 volt plug in and a Dual USB.
(https://i.imgur.com/xUKTtAV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wKk4v0B.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vM3F0Yx.jpg)
Started on modifying the firewall where the wiper motor used to mount. A new panel is being made that will mimic the panel on the passenger side of the hood latch. The other holes you see will be filled for a clean look.
(https://i.imgur.com/1AcdMsK.jpg)
Very nice. Super clean and well thought out!!! Jealous!
Nice work, I'm subscribed!
Driver's side of the firewall and the pinch weld cleaned up.
(https://i.imgur.com/jVDhg6o.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hk5O8tE.jpg)
John it is coming along very nicely! Like the fire wall mods!
stunning bodywork ! beautiful !
Looking great, John. The pinch weld flange dress-up is something I wished I had done to mine, so I realized after I got the paint on. :(
Incredible work John.
Question.. is your gauge cluster an aftermarket piece?... the reason i ask i=s one of my 57's had the same piece and I always wondered who the manufacture was... or maybe you made yours?
Any rate... fantastic work.
Not sure if John's is from these people:
https://www.boeseengineering.com/Shop/ford/chevy-car-parts/1957-ford-galaxy-gauge-panels
Jeff and Rich.........my instrument cluster is Home Made. There are two studs on the back along the bottom and the two screws at the top that you can see,that secure it. Very easy to remove if necessary The Instruments are VDO, Cockpit Royale. VDO makes the Tach and Speedometer in two Diameters. I have the smaller size that is 3 1/8' as I recall. The larger is 3 3/8". Not a lot of difference in size, but with limited real estate to work with the smaller size worked best for me.
Been working on the Hood Release cable, and the Hood Release Handle and the Parking Brake Release Handle. Still in need of a used Hood Release Cable,to use parts of it on the Parking Brake Release Handle. Also been working on placement of '66 T'Bird console. It will be modified for a Floor Shift. Slowly but surely it is coming along.
(https://i.imgur.com/NNEGqHm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TZmQOxb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BCiCxuU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Q1TjomL.jpg)
Looking good John! :thumbsup:
Looking good John. That looks like a 59 hood latch? I just recently installed one, just love it, I can close the hood with one finger.
Jim, you are correct sir it is a '59 latch. The cable going to it is what is remaining of a Lokare Kick Down Cable. The factory release cable is inside the Lokar Kick Down Cable Sheath.
We have been working on adapting a '66 T' Bird Console ( got it all.....everything !) to the Ranchero. It is mounted by 4 bolts to brackets welded to the tunnel. Extending the sides to get down to where it will meet the carpet. The back end of the console will be extended to meet the bulkhead. Slow work. The console will use the '66 T'Bird Radio up at the top of the console, in its original location. Heat and Air controls below the radio. Using a Lokar cable shifter. Might be able to fit a couple of small cup holders IF there is room.
(https://i.imgur.com/4SZeIqe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qIu5GeS.jpg)
Looking good, John. I'm amazed at how many 65-66 T-Birds have donated interior components to hot rods. I love having a full console in my '57, as I'm sure you will.
If using the Vintage Air Gen IV, use the cable converters.
Gary, I'm assuming the cable converters are for use with the factory heater controls. Correct me if that is wrong.
I'm using the Vintage Air ,Gen IV Heat, Air and Defrost Evaporator and the Gen IV Rectangular Control Panel. No cables, 100% electronic.
just an option...OEM HVAC controls convert to Vintage Air Gen IV electronics. I did it for the '65 Thunderbird controls and the '57 controls.
You got my attention with that news. Please tell me more. How are the parts listed at Vintage Air? Or anything else you can tell me about using these cable converters.
THANK you!
The link is to the VA website INSTRUCTIONS for install instructions for '69-70 Mustang controls. The Mustang control kit will come with the converters, hardware and wire. Unfortunately, the ECU is different from the one you have. VA might swap the ECU you have for the 204 ECU that is required.
https://www.vintageair.com/instructions_pdf/474170.pdf
Thanks Gary, great information, I'll read this over and decide if it will work for me.
John
Been working on the console. Slow work, but making progress. Console is from a '66 T'Bird as are the seats.
(https://i.imgur.com/X39L3Qr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/d3qELme.jpg)
Looking good John!
This is going to be good! Soooo many others just looked like they were just dropped in there and look out of place. Details details details. That's what makes the difference.
Now that is what you call craftsmanship. I wish I was that talented.
Been working on the console. Easier to work on it out of the car. The'66 T'Bird radio is mounted in it's original location. Below it is the Vintage Air Control Panel. Below the radio and inside the console is a first generation Pioneer Amp, that I'd like to use provided it works. I've owned the Amp since it was new and it dates to 1978 and is a Whopping 12 Watts! I was a Manufacturer's Rep. in the Consumer Electronics business in1978 and this amp was cutting edge stuff in 1978!
In the second photo, you can see a white piece of cardboard. That is the template for a pair of SS Cup holders. Very tight fit.
(https://i.imgur.com/4q3o4Dy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uLxlVda.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rMx4lSM.jpg)
Nice work John. I like your overall design, it works very well.
Progress has been slow as of late. Life got in the way, and some of what was done relied on others , that were very slow. Cardboard cutouts show the shape of the side panels, that will be remade in a plastic material that will be upholstered. I purchased 1/2" Engine Turned Stainless Steel to use on the Instrument Cluster and Console. A friend wrote the program for a Laser to cut the SS to match the layout that has already been established. By design, the program left both pieces about a 1/2 "Fat" all around which was later trimmed by hand to fit.
Being a very small job for the laser company, it took weeks to get to the front of the production line. But all is good. It all worked as it should. I have the program, if someone wanted to use it for the instrument cluster.The Speedometer and Tach are 3 1/8" Dia, the small gauges are 2 1/16" Dia.. I have the console program as well, if anyone is interested.
Someone on the Forum, mentioned that the dash ash try was not centered. With the console installed it would look better moved, so it was moved. The AC vents, above the ash tray, were evenly spaced, so the decision was made to center the ash tray on the AC Vents, which in turn centered it on the console.
There was a hole on the left side of the Glove Box opening for a light. That was moved to the right side, as what little glove box there will be, will be on the right side of the box.
Next step is to Lead the seams of the Left and Right "Wings" of the dash. A friend of a friend is doing it. Way past my skills!
I'll post a photo when that is finished.
(https://i.imgur.com/UUvBz8r.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jUnbVYe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aCEarBw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Acuk9Co.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yWwCSlR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0vKlnpP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WFfguRo.jpg)
John, your console is unbelievable!
Outstanding John... L O V E the engine turn technique and the complete overall layout!
Thanks for the compliments. FYI.......the hardest part of the console was finding cup holders that would work. What you see are SS cup holders for a poker table. Some times you have to think outside the box! These cup holders are a perfect fit for a 12 oz. Coke can etc., or a standard size bottle of water, and cheap to boot!
The lip on the cup holders was turned down a few thousandths so they did not touch. There is a support piece under that space between the cup holders, to keep everything flat and prevent the SS from bending.
John
Looks awesome. Moving the ashtray to center it is some extreme detail :003:
Outstanding, John. This is a first class build. Did you finally get the pic posting figured out? Great to see pics.
looking great John.
I think it was me ( probably among others) complaining about the off center ashtray. factory location looks awkward as it doesn't match the speaker grill nor the radio. It is probably on the to do list on my Del Rio project, if I don't use the 59 dash I have. your installation makes me want to use the t bird center console, which I have one somewhere. Your efforts are coming out superbly clean !
Gunter, thanks for the comments. Let me clarify the ash tray position. It is not centered on the speaker. It was centered on the two AC vents just above it, that are equally spaced in that narrow band. If I centered the vents on the speaker, they would look odd. So the choice was made to do it as you see in the photos, and it works well with the console in place. It is not perfect, but it works for me. When I get the console back in I'll take a couple of photos and show you how all the parts to the puzzle work together.
John
One other item I've been working on is Tie Downs for the Ranchero bed. I didn't want permanent tie downs but rather something I could install as needed. Here is what I came up with. In the photos below, you'll see a 1/2" SS bolt, that has had the head cut down on a lathe and the center drilled and tapped. Four of these will be mounted in the bed as you'll see in the photos. The height of these tie downs was dictated by the one that mounts in the left rear. Limited space for a wrench, much less my hand. A SS button head goes into the cut down bolt when there is no tie down needed. When I need a tie down, the button head is removed and the SS Ring ( Marine item ) is installed. To strengthen the panel they go into,a round disc was made from 13 ga. steel, and a caged nut was secured to the disc. The disc was then glued in place with 3M Panel Bond. A bolt was used to pull the disc up tight to let the panel bond set up, but keep the caged nut loose.
When the cut down SS bolt is installed after painting, the caged nut will allow the cut down bolt to be positioned and tightened, so that the four numbered SS rings are vertical in each location.
(https://i.imgur.com/8eWVDZr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jgHy3y5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3pMIt6O.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WIglJSi.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nUdcwHS.jpg)
nice, great idea !
The following photos show the "Dog Leg" seams at the ends of the dash leaded in. They are not completely finished at this point, but you'll get the idea of the finished look. Getting this accomplished is a function of Who You Know, not What You Know. I'm very lucky to have gotten this done, as finding someone today, that knows how to work lead is rare.
You'll also see that although, the ash tray has been moved, it does not line up perfectly with the speaker, but rather with the pair of AC Vents just above, where the Heater, Radio and Clock were located. The ash tray also lines up with the console when it is in place.
(https://i.imgur.com/9T5pqvU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oDbDgfo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/swkbdzS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KoxLbRh.jpg)
that looks real tidy !! It is on the to do list, if I am ever going to use the 57 dash in my Del Rio project.
seeing how clean all of your interior is going to be, did you ever think about filling in the speaker grill ?
Yes, I have given that some thought, and it might just happen. I don't plan to use a speaker there. Like I said, it might happen.
PIC of one of my previous dash versions with the speaker delete. Unfortunately, it doesn't show with the steering wheel and glare. One less potential rattle and thing to clean.
Thanks Gary. You and Gunter ( did I spell that right ) are giving me something to reconsider, and I'll readily admit I'm leaning in the direction of filling in the speaker opening. Thanks to both of you your reply.
John, was the console necessary to cover a transmission option? Or just custom work? Mark
Mark, the console is strictly something that I wanted. It is a '66 T Bird console, and when I got the console, I also got the bucket seats.
I have a 57 Ranchero project that I jumpstarted. I think my tunnel will need to be altered .
Mark, are you saying that the tunnel will need to be altered because of the transmission or because of the console. I have a 4R70W transmission, and have been told here on the Forum, that there are aren't clearance issues. The sides of the console ( top to bottom ) were lengthened so it would sit at the right height relative to the bucket seats, but nothing was done to the tunnel.
I have a modified57 chassis with a 351 Windsor, T-5 trans, the body is on another frame at this time, doing floor pans , sheet metal ect. I know for sure my trans tunnel will have to be adjusted, possibly driveshaft clearance issues. One of these days I'll post this project to the forum. I started it years ago, cut the rust bucket body up, and bought a more solid body. I bought my 58, and shoved the 57 in the corner. Other life changing events got in the way, divorce, girlfriends, bought a Harley. Anyhow, don't want it to die in the corner, I have enough parts to build two cars, I'd really rather put a longroof on the chassis, and not separate the 57. But for now, i'll stick to the original plan, Mark
I made no floor alterations to the Raunch Wagon when I installed 351w and AOD using '64 Galaxie 289 engine mounts. I did alter the transmission cross member by deleting the OEM cross member and installed a '64 Galaxie cross member to get acceptable drive train angles.
That 64 Galaxie trans crossmember looks really good, gasman, how did you make the parking brake linkage attatch to it, and any closeup photos of the linkage and how it is mounted to the brackets you welded to the frame? The original crossmembers often seem to either have the threaded holes in the frame rails strip out, or the bolts snap off, and you need to pry it back into place when re-installing it, not to mention it gets in the way of most headers and exhaust systems. Did the 64s still have the 57 style saddle and U bracket style of trans mount, or had they already started using the later style, like 66 & newer Fairlanes, 67 & newer Mustangs etc, where the mount was 1 piece, bolting directly to the trans, and with studs fitting into slots in the crossmember?
That is a nice and clean install Gary !
351C/AOD installed, 64 Galaxie 289 engine mounts spaced 3/4" off the engine and 3/8" off the chassis bracket, trans mount is an Explorer 2wd trans mount. No body mods to make it all fit.
Very nice Bill. Do you recall what year Explorer the transmission mount came from?
Just came in with fresh pictures. I originally installed the AOD with the '57 OEM cross member. I made it fit but had four issues. One was the interference with the rear edge of the transmission pan. The second was the drive train angle. The third was the transmission mount. And the fourth, everyone's issue with long tube header and/or larger exhaust clearance. I had the '64 Galaxie cross member laying around and decided to correct all these issues.
I moved the cross member location 6" +/- to the rear with simple angle iron brackets welded to the frame. The cross member can be shimmed to modify engine/transmission angle. The Galaxie cross member uses a common transmission mount much like Bill's. Mine came with the AOD. The Galaxie cross member has nice recesses for large, dual exhaust.
PICs are parking brake mods. I cut the cable mount and lever bracket off a cut-up '57 cross member. Pictures aren't the best without removing the cross member.
PIC PB lever mods
PICs of cross member
Quote from: KYBlueOval on 2019-04-14 09:27
Very nice Bill. Do you recall what year Explorer the transmission mount came from?
John it is a 2000 2wd/302. Need to open the holes in the cross member slightly to have it drop in without forcing.
After some "objective" thinking,and good advice here on the Forum, the speaker grill was removed and filled. The leaded seams have been blocked. It is done now. Everything I wanted to do to the dash has been done.There is a guide coat on the dash for the day in the future when it is time to block sand it again prior to color being applied.
Another item that has been addressed is the %^$@*^% Cowl drains. What you see is a 1 1/2" X 1" Copper reducer fitting and a 1" X 1" Brass PEX fitting. Once soldered, the piece will be secured on the cowl drain with a SS screw and a good application of some silicone.There is no water pressure, so I think it should work.
I'm going to steal an idea from the forum regarding the other end of the cowl drain. "'57 Again" made a flange that was installed on the inner fender, and that is what I'm going to do as well. When I get to that point, I'll post photos.
In the mean time we are working on the unfinished details. Once those are completed.the bottom can be painted and then I can bring it home and install it back on the frame.
(https://i.imgur.com/5f4yrku.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gfxoXj3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LtuyoTM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HlUlq6z.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7lEvhws.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ThLr3Ia.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/v8Jjck7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FlSZedG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DVh8myn.jpg)
good progress and clean work all around !
Nice work John! That cowl drain should work just fine with the silicon as you mentioned. I got off easy with my speaker fill-in............with my padded dash, I just left the oem grille in there and went right over it with the foam padding, lol.
Update on the cowl drain. Decided it need a bracket. Bracket was silver soldered to the copper. There is a "notch" in the top end of the cowl drain. A corresponding "notch" was cut in the copper fitting. It just fits better with the two notches.
The bracket has a screw hole high up so as to keep the screw out of the water running through the cowl.........I hope.
Now for the "other end". I really liked an idea I saw here on the Fourm, where the cowl water drains through the inner fender, and I stole it! What you see are 2 1/4" X 7/8" SS washers and SS elbows from a previous project. The washers were opened up slightly, drilled and tapped and the elbows welded in place. I'll show exactly where it was mounted, if anyone wants to see it.(https://i.imgur.com/amnqxZz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8lCgqzG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4VukFTt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6FbgGhx.jpg)
Well is has been since May of last year since I posted any updates or photos. Detail work on the body, blocking and sanding, etc. not worthy of photos. Blocking inside the truck bed is a real PITA, but it is done, except for the ribbed, bolt in section. Test fitted all of the Truck Bed Stainless Trim, only to find out that it did not fit very well, and required that many screw holes be moved. It all fits now.
Been holding off installing the rear fender inner panels as we didn't want the sanding dust, metal chips etc. to accumulate between the inner and outer fender. We are now ready to weld them in. In the photos below you see three sections that will complete the inner fender. The ribbed piece on the far right is from EMS. The other two pieces were hand made to fit. Once these pieces are installed and finished, I'll post more photos.
I've also posted photos of the seat belt installation. Because of the way the belt is installed, It will require that the belt be shortened. BTW, I'm using '66 T'Bird Seats.
(https://i.imgur.com/oD4WOKr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kkV1Mi8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kZJZSVB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AhikhxW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5004iAL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lqIcjAD.jpg)
Here are the seat belt photos. Don't know how to rotate the last photo..........sorry about that
(https://i.imgur.com/n9OeyRw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/l93dLYM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Brolmp6.jpg?1)
The small things that no will see...are the ones that will make it trouble free for ever...and assure nothing but fun driving down the road. Looks good...very good. :003:
Beautiful work John.....
Very impressive. It's going to be so nice you may not want to drive it. Got an overall pic.? It's hard to see how far along it is with the closeups on details.
I'll get some full photos , but it might be in a week or so. Stay tuned.
Looks great John! I see you are still using Imgur, so it's easy. Click on the photo, then "edit image", then "rotate", then "save" and then use the new code provided for your edited image.
Thanks CobraJoe. I made the correction.
As you can see in the photos the remaining rear quarter panel inner pieces are now being tacked in. The Driver side is done and the passenger side will be completed soon. You'll notice that on the photos of the Driver Side, there is the opening where the filler pipe was originally located. Further back, you can see the new hole where the filler pipe goes through to the area, and brings the filler pipe up, just behind the tailight.
There are a few smaller pieces to be made and installed in this rear quarter panel area. When these other pieces are completed and installed and after the grinding etc., is completed, I'll update with photos. After that are some minor details that have been knowingly overlooked that need to be completed , and then a lot of seam sealing on the bottom, prior to painting the bottom.
Stay Tuned!
(https://i.imgur.com/dmasrEe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iDLEQAQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NFsHtGz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1mJzogS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JDMRJRZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mAPIl69.jpg)
You're making steady progress John, wow. I've never worked on a Ranchero, so I'm having a heck of a time trying to figure out what most of the stuff you're showing us is. If you can get back far enough, an overall pic would help alot to understand what your showing us. Gotta be almost entirely handmade panels your working with.?!
John, are you doing the finish welding with tig? I used mig for mine. In the first pic, I was confused, it doesn't take much, by the hole across from the og gas filler access. Then I remembered this is a Ranchero so I also don't know. In your third pic, left side, at the front of the wheel well, I found that dogleg to be quite challenging but decided it would be easier to form the dogleg separate from the slightly curved panel and seam it on the side. I replaced the entire curved panel rather than seaming it in the middle. This shows the many ways to get to a well finished product.
Rich, I'll get some photos from a distance, so you can see the entire bottom of the car. As to the panels, yes most of these are hand made. The panel that is at the far end of the quarter panel, that is "ribbed", is a EMS piece that has been cut down to fit.
Terry, to answer your questions..........yes, the remaining welding will be done with a TIG. As to the hole you are wondering about.....I moved the gas filler from the left quarter panel, to behind the left tail light. The tail light slides in and out for access. That hole is for the new filler pipe that terminates behind the tail light. Hope that answers your questions, if not , let me know.
John
Rich, here are the photos showing the entire bottom, as well as the rear fender wells, and the inner fender pieces that have been made and are being welded in. Next is to do a lot seam sealing on the bottom and get it ready for paint. Then apply Raptor to the rear wheel wells, followed by a color coat on the entire bottom.
(https://i.imgur.com/8f3IPfv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RDYOeOj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YvIu1NU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CSXd57a.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MRXJVAT.jpg)
Fantastic work John, it really looks great!
very clean, John !
I see you eliminated the rear footwells, which totally makes sense in a Ranchero. No more bathtubs in there.
No more "BathTubs"............I really like that description and it is oh so true. FYI, I used 13ga. for those flat floors. Yes it is an odd gauge,..........my friend that sold me the Ranchero, had some and donated a couple of 4 x 4 sheets to the cause.
A real plus of having a flat rear floor area will show up when it is time to install the carpet on a flat floor.........and not in a "BathTub"
The overall pics sure help us that are not familiar with the underside of a Ranchero to understand what you're doing. Thanks, and WOW!! Everything looks first class. Keep the progress pics coming.
I, too, eliminated the bath tubs. What I found was that in using 15" wheels, a 15" spare would not fit between the upper lip and the flat floor. I had to find a 14" wheel that would clear my disc brake calipers and a small 14" tire to fit in there. John
I'm wondering if what I use for a spare would fit.......a "donut" spare out of a Lincoln. 16" makes it a little closer to diameter of our tires even though it's a donut. I used them on my '57 after I changed to discs and wqas not wanting to buy wheels and tires for it yet. I can measure if anybody wants.
One heck of a Job John.Very nice.
Bottom has been primed with DP 50 ,2K primer, and I've begun taping the seams for the 3M Seam Sealer #05887. This is a 2K Seam Sealer and it is really slick stuff, and it can be sanded. Sets up in 15 minutes, so you have to work quickly and have a plan on what you are going to do and who is going to do it, when working on a large area. I've found that it takes two guys to do it , when sealing a large area like this bottom. One to run the gun, then both of us "pull" a modified Bondo spreader across the seam sealer to smooth it out, and then the second guy pulls the tape, before it starts to set up, as the first guy goes back to running the gun. Three guys would work best. BTW.....you can't let the gun sit for more than four minutes with out using it, or you have to install a new nozzle. With these time limits, it keeps you hopping!
Spraying color on the bottom is not that far off!
(https://i.imgur.com/NYSzTtD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZEXljAP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8PLIbVi.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hTP6goP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yAaXAuE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/W7SbEmI.jpg)
That is nothing short of art work.
Be careful, John............you're getting close to "too pretty to drive".
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2020-03-12 08:01
Be careful, John............you're getting close to "to pretty to drive".
I was thinking the same thing last night when I saw the pics. LOL!!!
Not to worry. I have two other cars that have been built with the same attention to detail and I drive both of them. I friend of mine just finished a 15 YEAR build on a '67 Mustang Fastback, to the tune of $200,000.00 Plus and it is a Driver! And my Ranchero will also be a Driver .
I once tried to buy a '70 Mustang Grande...all factory original less than 70k miles. This was in '01. The on time it was ever driven was to a Concurs show 70 miles away. They wouldn't sell it to me because they KNEW I would drive it more than they did. They wanted it to go to someone like them...who would not drive it except for the rare occasion it was being shown. Yea...I would have driven it...not daily to be sure...but more than 140 miles a year absolutely!
Hell...my Saleen (88) is a one only car...bought it that same year with only 21k on it. Now approaching 100k. Every time Steve Saleen sees it he looks at the odometer and gives me a thumbs up...because I DO drive it! They are meant to be driven...and enjoyed! Go for it...drive it! I told my son he may well inherit my Courier after I can no longer drive...but when he does...he will need to put a new engine in it...cause I am going to drive this one until it won't run anymore!
John, Thanks for the pictures of the floors and panel work. I am doing my rockers and floors at this time, this is of great help and motivation. My friend moved to Georgia, and I convinced him he should leave his rotisserie with me! Now I can spot weld panels in place, and finish them later. Great job!
GOT to have a rotisserie!!!
Quote from: gasman826 on 2020-03-31 13:56
GOT to have a rotisserie!!!
I just noticed, it appears as though your package tray is solid. Is that correct? Mine has the indents cut out.
Some safety inspections require solid metal between the passenger compartment and the trunk...especially with battery relocated to the trunk. Not a race car but I might roll it through the lights sometime. So, yes, the sub package tray area and behind the rear seat are solid. This is also prep for '65 Thunderbird package tray.
Does the new seam sealer you are using have strength properties, like panel bond? Or is it strictly a sealer?
It has limited strength properties............we glued two pieces of primed sheet metal together using it and it bonded very well, but could be twisted apart. IMO, if you are wanting the strength of the panel bond, which I'm told contains some anti corrosive chemicals, then the seam sealer is not the correct product.
I'll add that the seam sealer was applied over 2K primer and the panel bond is applied to bare metal.
Does that answer your question?
John
Panel bond can be applied to bare metal OR (epoxy) primer. Keep in mind that replacement panels for the newer cars come from the factory/supplier already with a coat of something (usually black that I've seen), and panel bond is the common way to attach them.
Mark....that really nice finish that John got on his seams using the seam sealer can be done as well with panel bond.
Thanks, I was thinking these products could reduce the number of welds, or the lengths of the welds.
Progress!
The bottom was painted yesterday along with the portion of the fire wall below the seam. The color is a Corvette color. Goes by different names for different years. Fusion Gray or Shark Metallic Gray.The paint code is WA-400Y. The inside of the fenders were painted first with RAPTOR, to help prevent "Starring" from stones. Body should be coming home soon. It has been a long journey to this point and a lot more in front of me.
John
(https://i.imgur.com/7nchxIL.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/4qKtX0k.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZjVHzvl.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/si0FocK.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/RiRqK0K.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/xPNwC6g.jpg)
Looking good!
John it is almost a shame that the bottom will be out of sight! Nice work!
Looks beautiful John! It appears to be a very similar color to mine!? Looking forward to the topside pics in paint.
I assume from the "body coming home" statement, it is at a body shop or other place not home, and it is coming home for assembly prior to topside paint?........or all being painted now prior to assembly?
Rich, the color is close to yours. I believe that the metallic gray will highlight the polished Stainless trim.
Yes, the body has been 35 miles away for sometime. The plan is to bring it home , get it on the frame and then assemble it, make it work, function, drive etc, and then finish the painting.
I just don't want to be fitting freshly painted doors and fenders for the first time.It's more work for me, but it is the route I wish to take.
John
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2020-08-10 06:36
John it is almost a shame that the bottom will be out of sight! Nice work!
The only person that will see it is...............The person I run over!
Small steps of progress are as enjoyable as the big ones! I'll just be happy to start working on mine again!
John, great prep work for final assembly ! that is the way to go for an outstanding finish and will make things a lot easier on assembly and final prep and door, hood and fender gaps. looking forward to see the next steps !
Very nice work on this build! Bravo
It has been awhile since updated this post. Life got in the way. So here are some recent photos. The body is still not on the frame, but will be shortly. Decided to rebuild my engine (351W),got the short block back, and the final assembly should be this week. The body will go back on the frame soon after the engine and trans are installed in the frame.
First photos shows the fuse panel, that rides out from under the passenger seat.
(https://i.imgur.com/6OH40xQ.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/qDudLDW.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/s7f0MLB.jpg?2)
(https://i.imgur.com/tPeukx7.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/h72ZcJb.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/4V90LLE.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/hTpU68J.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/WDfP8m1.jpg?1)
Next photo is the bracket for the Parking Brake Release and the Hood Release. There is an engine turned piece that goes behind the gauges and on the top of the console. The Steering column is a cut down '56/'57 T'Bird.
(https://i.imgur.com/vNzl7uO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hSx0AW8.jpg?1)
SWEET does not do it justice...but it is the only word I can come up with. Looks very well planned out and executed! And gives me ideas...assuming you don't mind theft! :003:
Hugh, some of what you see is my doing and some of what you see is "borrowed". Help yourself. If you need an explanation on anything , just ask.
John
John looking really good!!! A well engineered and executed plan is coming together! Keep on trucking along.
I was going to type pretty much word for word what Hugh said, so ditto!!!
Very impressive design and execution. I love the clean-up work on the firewall. I also love the dash panel as-is, may get too busy on ya with the engine-turned addition. I can't tell if those are mounting screws or indicator LEDs.
You probably mentioned it previously, but what's the console from?
Thanks guys, for all of the kind words. Rich, the engine turned piece is made and is a overlay, so it can be removed if it looks too busy.
The holes you see are for indicator lights........The usual, turn signals, Hi Beam, and then a red LED for Parking Brake and a blinking Red LED for the security system.
The console is from a '66 Thunderbird. It has been lengthened on the back end, lowered just under the dash, and lengthened on the sides, top to bottom. If you look closely at the console up near the dash, you can see where the top part of the console is cut and bolted back together. This was done so, the console can be removed, without removing the dash. If you look at the console photo towards the rear of the console, you'll see the rear seat ash lid ( as used in the '66 Thunderbird) is opened. Modified the ash tray to hold 3 toggle switches.
John
I also like your cowl drain set-up too! :005:
VERY NICE!!!!
John this is awesome work, getting inspired to start on Ranchero! So much time in the details, keep posting the pic's I'm finding much help on what I am getting myself in to.
Quote from: MarkA57 on 2021-07-08 19:53
John this is awesome work, getting inspired to start on Ranchero! So much time in the details, keep posting the pic's I'm finding much help on what I am getting myself in to.
You are not that far away. You are welcome to stop by and take a look any time. Street Rod Nationals are here in Louisville, the first week in August.
John
Quote from: KYBlueOval on 2021-07-11 12:30
You are not that far away. You are welcome to stop by and take a look any time. Street Rod Nationals are here in Louisville, the first week in August.
John
John, thank you for the invite. Unfortunately I can't make the NSRA Nat's this year. I might be able to get up and check this out later. So much to do in the warm weather. Keep posting your progress
Mark
It has been several months since I last posted, so I thought it was time to update. The Body is now back on the frame, and the engine and transmission are installed, along with a Crown Vic aluminum drive shaft. I originally had the engine sitting too high. With the advice I got here on the Forum, I used the '64 Galaxie Motor Mounts and some shims and now the engine has what I believe is the correct amount of clearance to the tubular cross member. With the engine in place, I believe things will progress a little faster...........I'm not getting any younger!
I've included some photos of some things I've done that may be of interest to someone in the building process.
The photo of the interior roof of the car shows a "Black Blanket". The blanket is actually a 1/4' thick Black Carbon Fiber Welding Blanket, glued to the Dynamat type material on the roof. It should (I hope!) stop the heat transfer. It's installed on the firewall as well, and in time will cover the floor.
The installation of the Heat and Air system used up a lot of the glove box space, but it did leave just a little space, and with a Ranchero space is at a premium. My other cars have a master on/off switch that isolates the battery from the car wiring, and I wanted the same thing on this car, along with a Mega Fuse. So that is what you see in the limited space in the glove box. The solenoid, via a toggle switch, will isolate the battery or connect it to the electrical system. The wire from the starter to the fuse panel goes through the Mega Fuse, and the fuseable link was removed. The glass barrel fuse holder protects the wire coming from the battery to the toggle switch. The holder below it, with out the ears, will hold a spare fuse. The small piece of cardboard is the size of the stand alone computer I need to operate the transmission. I'll be getting that soon.
Having lost the use of the dash glove box, the aluminum box you see was made and will function as a glove box that slides out from under the seat. I needed a new piece above the steering column as the original piece was a poor fit on the '56 "T'Bird column.
Good grounds are essential as we all know, and the grounding strip from a household fuse panel does a great job of grounding. The photo I posted is on the passenger side,( Yes, I'll straighten up the wiring and make it look neat later) there is another on the driver's side (same location) and one more (so far) in the console, all of which wire back to the ground on the motor. BTW, you can't weld that grounding strip, it must be bolted in place.
Still have some wiring to do, but the wiring I've done is held in place by a product called a "Mag Daddy". You can get them in different sizes, either as a Zip Tie anchor or as "Loop". The price in the photos is not the price for one. I believe you get 6 per box, but I could be wrong on the count. The 16 pound pull is impressive!
That pretty much brings things up to date. A slow process, but I'm getting there.
John
(https://i.imgur.com/fx31QUP.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/Y9wNppw.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/loKTbWm.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/qu287lo.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/qqNUki3.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/6kHg0fl.jpg?1)
Balance of the photos
(https://i.imgur.com/L5FDBQd.jpg?2)
(https://i.imgur.com/y8GUezx.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/jnqYh8i.jpg?1)
Very neat work John!! I've got similar grounding strips throughout my car as nothing on mine is grounded to the body......everything is wired grounds. I used strips like yours in the trunk and under the dash. In the engine compartment, I used covered power distribution boxes for the grounds to keep them clean.
Sorry for the really dirty engine compartment.
Blown away again! Incredible detail/design and execution. Can't wait to see it in person!!!
John, your attention to detail is phenomenal! The car looks awesome, looking forward to see the completed project.
Some time ago I posted photos of the cowl drain that was installed. I have recently been test fitting the inner fenders for the routing of the right side wiring and the heater hoses on the passenger side and the left side wiring and AC hose routing on the driver's side. The rest of the cowl drain parts have been installed to make sure the drain tube is not in the way of anything else in that cowl area. When the tube is permanently installed I will use both a Corbin Clamp and a Gates Power Grip Shrink Clamp as getting into this area to tighten a clamp will be rather difficult at best.
Below are some photos of the rest of the parts and pieces that make up the cowl drain.
(https://i.imgur.com/W9tO9v8.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/a7A2aaH.jpg?2)
(https://i.imgur.com/C0OLkoX.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/FPRh1Mz.jpg?1)
The photo below is what you see from the wheel well
(https://i.imgur.com/tJWYZn7.jpg?1)
I need to rotate a couple of photos, but don't know how to do it.
John
That is SUPER! original wasn't one of Fords better ideas
SWEET! Well done John!
That's the best cowl drain setup yet!! great engineering and execution, John!
To rotate a pic....same program I talk about to resize.....RIGHT click on the pic, chose "open with"......chose "paint"........top left, the rotate button is right under the resize button. Click on save when you close.
That's assuming your running on Windows
I've been working on several projects for my Ranchero and modifying the grill is one of them. I shamelessly stole this idea from the fella from ARP Bolts, that posted here on the Forum while building his outstanding 2 door wagon. I saw it at the Street Rod Nationals,...........I believe it was two years ago, and it gorgeous, and I really liked the grill with the parking lights removed. What I will do is what he did regarding the parking lights. I will have two LED Lights stacked and mounted behind the grill. The lights are from United Pacific and have as I recall 12 LED's in each light. If anyone wants the United Pacific number, I have it.
Had the grill stripped of the chrome so it could be welded. Obtained one side of a bent up grill and it supplied the "bars" needed to make this change. A little more sanding, and it is off to the chrome shop.
(https://i.imgur.com/QOnBOUH.jpg?1)
I like the nice clean look. Great execution!
Interesting idea. I'd like to see pics of it when you are done. I put one and a half grills in the ceiling of my garage several years ago. They had sex...and I now have 4 sets...LOL!!! so...material to play with
Saw that wagon too. Just simple a work of art! John it is often said copying is the greatest form of compliment.....
Progress comes slowly these days as life keeps getting in the way. Here are some photos of some recent work. My goal was to eliminate as much wiring, hoses etc. from the engine compartment. Here is how I am routing the wiring to the front of the car. I'm presently working on the wiring that connects to things like temp. sensors, choke, alternator etc. and I'll post photos in a few days.I'm also working on the routing of the heater hoses, and I'll post those photos in a few days as well.
These photos show the 3/4" electrical conduit that I bent for the wiring going to the front of the car.The compound bend in the conduit, to make it follow the compound curve in the inner fender, was some what of a challenge, but I got it.
(https://i.imgur.com/6qNgzRf.jpg?2)
(https://i.imgur.com/QuMbrNG.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/Lz3kK4q.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/eNCiNev.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/L4o57e4.jpg?1)
I can't open any of these photos either.... wait a minute... I copied and pasted the link and I can see them in another window!
I've been working on the routing for the heater hoses. My goal was to have as little of the hose in the engine compartment and as few connections as possible, and make some 90* bends,without kinking.
The hose is 5/8"ID, made by Gates, in the U.S.A. and it will kink if you bend it to a 90* shape. I tried bending a 5/8" OD piece of thin wall SS tubing to a 90 and then forcing it through the hose. After about 18" it just plain stopped. My next thought was to run a piece of SS corrugated Natural Gas Flex line inside the hose. So I bought the shortest 3/8'OD line I could find and cut the connecting ends off. Smoothed the cuts and slid in it the heater hose. You'll see a piece of the SS hose in the first photo. Second photo is a piece of the 5/8" ID heater hose with a piece of the 3/8"OD Flexible SS Gas Line inside it and bent to 90 degrees.
Next I bought a 1/2" OD SS Flexible Gas line and tried running it down the hose, photo 3. Although it is called 1/2" OD ,the OD is closer to ,if not exactly 5/8" OD.The line I bought was 4 feet long. Removed the fittings, cleaned up the ends and pushed 2 feet inside the hose without too much effort. The last two feet is another story. Yes, I used all types of lube and finally got it all inside the hose. The third photo shows the route of the hose, through the inner fender and then it is zip tied to the conduit I ran for some wiring, and then takes a 180* turn at the front of the inner fender and then a sharp 90* turn under the battery.The SS Corrugated SS Gas Line, inside the heater hose, makes those bends, without any kinks. I used the 1/2" OD , but if I had to do it again, I'd use the 3/8"OD . Much easier to work with!
So, there are very few connections, thus fewer chances for leaks.The return heater hose goes from the heater to the water pump. A connection on either end. No bulkhead connection. The hose from the intake to the heater has the control valve in that line, and the control valve will be between the inner fender and the right side of the cowl, and not inside the car. If it leaks it won't ruin the carpet. Four connections, but no bulkhead.
I'll use the 3/8"OD SS Gas Line inside the hoses as they make the 90* bend exiting the right side of the cowl.
There is also a photo of the battery and battery cables. The cables will go through the inner fender. The negative cable, follows the heater hoses and grounds to the engine block. The positive cable goes into the recently installed conduit, to the solenoid behind the glove box door that energizes the fuse panel etc.
(https://i.imgur.com/uLOFiL5.jpg?2)
(https://i.imgur.com/XBwacVK.jpg?2)
(https://i.imgur.com/G4St2Op.jpg?1)
More photos in the next post. The third photo in the next post, shows the heater hoses and negative battery cable coming through the inner fender, towards the engine, below the battery.
(https://i.imgur.com/xwo4206.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XcnDvT4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8BCcNPl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/h2yTYW3.jpg)
That's all going to go a long way towards cleaning up the engine compartment. Hope you never have to remove those inner fenders though!
Yes, I gave that some thought, but decided I liked the look.The AC lines on the other side will be done much the same. You'll see very little of the hoses. I'll work on the other side when I return from Texas.
Lot of time to figure out how to get out of the engine compartment as cleanly as possible. A couple of hours in the NAPA hose area found the rear hose of the two with a molded 90* in it. This is the only hose with a "splice" in it.AC heater lines 0010.JPGAC heater lines 0010.JPG
OK, not sure why the pictures doubled up? Have more to learn!
Been working on the core support, radiator /fan clearance issues in between out of town trips.The radiator needed to go forward to allow for the fan/shroud to clear. While making those changes, the AC condenser was added.
Looking down on the radiator, it has been moved far forward and you can see the fan to water pump pulley clearance.
(https://i.imgur.com/UbXTQfz.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/Z88UbTx.jpg?1)
The next photo shows the core support somewhat bolted in with the radiator in place and the brackets for the condenser
(https://i.imgur.com/OT0ahbN.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/rysrLkL.jpg?1)
The next photo shows the condenser in place. I'm running the AC hoses inside the car to the driver's side and then out through the inner fender etc. The AC compressor is on the driver's side and I'm using the Ford factory brackets for AC,PS,and Alt. A new Sanden compressor arrived yesterday to replace what you see in the photo.
(https://i.imgur.com/WCYWY8i.jpg?1)
Next is the shroud and fan. Plenty of room to install some flaps or louvers, if needed.I purchased the used fan at the Pate Swap meet in Ft.Worth. It is a $193.00 Spal fan that I bought for $10.00! Every now and then ,one gets lucky.
(https://i.imgur.com/R1nNy12.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/wQo7kC9.jpg?1)
John the slog is long and tedious but well worth the effort! Keep on keeping on, you're lookin great!
Been awhile since I posted any updates.Below are photos of how the hood hinge springs were converted to gas shocks. This modification was covered here on the Forum years ago.........I'm just getting around to it.
The gas shocks are rated at 120#. I've had them on the car with a stock hood and it all worked fine. The hood did not come up rapidly, but rather what I would call a normal rise.
When the '63 T'Bird Hood skin is installed on the '57 hood frame, it might require a stronger strut. The hood conversion is a ways off at this point.
I hope the photos explain the changes that were made to accommodate the gas struts. If not, I'll explain what was done.
(https://i.imgur.com/3fzJcmV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LT51PQR.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/ekn7bt1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7zoLDdb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8aRWPYG.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/NPwKLkS.jpg)
Headers are next. Finally found a pair that would work with some massaging. Photos to follow when they are finished.
Looking pretty phenomenal there.
Question...which company should I buy stock in? Bayer, Tylenol, Seagrams? LOL!!! Cause I KNOW there has been a few needs for something after ll that brain work!
Looks really good!
You'll be really happy with that lift mod for several reasons, including making the area under the hood hinge brackets usable for running A/C lines. My lifts have been on for 6 years and still work well, although the last year or so there is a slight drop in the lifting power.
Quote from: mustang6984 on 2022-12-22 11:20Looking pretty phenomenal there.
Question...which company should I buy stock in? Bayer, Tylenol, Seagrams? LOL!!! Cause I KNOW there has been a few needs for something after ll that brain work!
Looks really good!
Thanks Hugh. Don't know about Bayer or Tylenol stock, but I can tell you that there is no Seagram stock to be bought or sold. I worked for Seagram and ran the southern part of the country. I left in 1987 for a better opportunity and Seagram sold out 2 years later. My exit timing was perfect, but it was not because I was so smart.....just lucky.
A long overdue update. Below are photos of my hood with a '63 T'Bird scoop. Took both hoods to Indianapolis and had them chemically dipped.
The original plan was to remove the "skin" from both hoods and install the '63 skin on the '57 hood frame.After the hoods were dipped, it became apparent that there was more rust in the nose of the T'Bird hood than I had anticipated.
So plan "B" was used. The scoop area was cut out and a like portion of the '57 hood was removed. Initial fit was pop riveted in. A friend has a spot welder with a sizeable reach, so the hood was taken to his place and spot welded.Then it was TIG welded.
Plan "B" resulted in the bottom side of the hood being rather ugly, as you could see where the hood was cut and scoop welded in. The fix was to make aluminum panels to fit into the recesses, and hide the "ugly"
What you see are cardboard templates, which were used in fabricating the aluminum panels. The large brown cardboard piece did not work. Clearance issues, so those three recessed areas have individual pieces as well. 3M Panel Bond will be used to secure the aluminum in place.
And I should acknowledge that the scoop will not be functional. Had I been able to use the entire T'Bird skin, it would have been functional.
The individual aluminum panels, used to hide the ugly portion of the installation made it non functional, and I'll block off the scoop.
When I get the panels glued in, I'll post a photo or two.
(https://i.imgur.com/9c8Kriq.jpg?2)
(https://i.imgur.com/Wf5Q6OS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MlokM6d.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FeCaaAz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dn5REhR.jpg?1)
Man, I really miss doing fun stuff like that. The hood is looking great. That scoop is nice and subtle, as we know from Gary's.
The '63 hood looks great. Mine was a '65 donor...very similar but different. I really enjoyed changing the hood skins. It took many hours to hammer/dollie all the way around the perimeter. If I were to attempt this again, I would bead roller the entire edge of the skin. Rolling the entire perimeter 180 degrees via hammer/dollie is very difficult to maintain a uniform and straight edge. I also really like adhesives...no dealing with heat shrink and much faster.