:canada:good morning. Anybody had any experience removing the undercoating that I believe was applied when the car was new? I?ve been scraping and chiseling away at it just to get at the bolts and uncover the access holes and rubber plugs. I haven?t tried heating it yet I?m scared to melt any wiring that may be hidden underneath it.
Haha..........you're starting on one of the most tedious,boring, thankless,dirty, time consuming jobs in a restoration. It's pretty much an elbow grease job, but heat does help alot. Heat gun and a long handled scraper to keep your hands from getting burnt. Once you get most of it off, rags soaked in mineral spirits will get the rest. Gasoline works probably better, but I wouldn't use it for all the obvious reasons.
Unless it's wiring that was added after the car was built, there shouldn't be any factory wiring under the car that I know of. Possibly an add-on overdrive unit, etc. All of the electrical stuff in the back (lights, sending unit, etc)should all have the wiring inside the car.
Whatever you use, keep a fire extinguisher handy just in case.
As Rich said it's a job. When using heat apply lightly. I've heard that a heat gun will work but I just used a propane torch. I noted that to much heat makes the undercoating sticky and it will stick to your scraper. What seemed to best for me was a little heat and a medium to heavy hand on the scraper.
Careful ! The main wiring harness to the rear runs along the center of the trans tunnel . over to the B or C post under the front bench seat or rear pssgr footwell ( drivers side). it is just lying inside on the floor and I am sure that lots of heat could harm the wires.
Then again. if your floor boards are not rusty. why would you want to remove the og factory undercoating. it is a heavy coat of tarmaq and a good heat and noise insulation, as originally intended. Unless you are building a fully detailed show car, you could well leave it alone. On my California Coutry Sedan I left much of the og undercoating. it was just factory red oxyde primer underneath. JMHO.
:canada:ya the more I remove the more rust I find so I pretty much want to get most of it off just for peace of mind if nothing else. I?ll try the heat gun tonight and hopefully get something done I was starting to think it was more than I waned to do. I will push on and try and talk my sons into helping ha ha
if it's rusted underneath, the undercoating has gotta go ! :001:
Take the seats, carpet out then lift the wiring out of the way. Map gas or propane works pretty good. Just heat it up enough to get it gummy then scrap. When you have section done and floor pan is still warm, solvent and a rag will rest off easily. It's an awful job for sure.
I used one of those sonic multi cutting tools with a very dull blade. It was unbelievably easy, and mine was very thick.
:canada:I have the interior all stripped and I elevated the rear wiring harness off the floor boards with 2 x2 blocks so I think I?m ok there. I am not confident enough to do a full off restoration but I have to do the bull work because I?m not rich enough to send it out either. I?m just going to do the mechanical stuff to get it up to snuff and do the bull work and some nick picky stuff then I have a restorer friend of mine who is good and I will send it to him to finish. That may take a year or so because I?m working full time,although I?m 65 I?m still working but I started this project And it all consuming once you start in hindsight I should have waited a year or so but it is good therapy rolling out from under the car 5 times because I forgot a tool. I?ve lost 10 lbs so far. I would send more pictures but the car looks worse now than when I pulled it out of the back 40 more than a month ago. Thanks for the help it means a lot to a guy with not much experience
Yep........I knew there was something I wasn't remembering. Those are the best inventions since power lawn mowers!
:canada:I have one of those ocilating tools I will try it thanks I got it with a set of deWalt driver drill set and have never used it
That's what I used .an ocilating tool. worked well but a propane bottle,elbow grease did the majority of the job.
Removed mine with one of those air powered gasket scrapers , about $50.00 on Amazon.
Worked like a champ since the undercoat is generally dried up if you get the scraper under a corner it will come off in big chunks.
I would stop whenever my production level went down and run the chisel against the grinder to get a fresh edge.
I did my entire wagon underside and is was really not a bad job.
Make sure you wear eye protection and keep your mouth shut , 60 year old undercoat tastes like s*** !
Pete
A needle scaler works very well if it's brittle. No need for heat or any chemicals.
A needle scaler is easy to find, low cost tool. About $30 at a harbor freight. The fingers on the tool quickly chip away all the undercoat. This tool also re-textures cast surfaces to remove and blend in any grinding marks as well.
May not work well if the undercoat is all gooey. That's why you do not want to add heat or solvents until you have removed the majority.
Iamflashman did an article on this forum as well as a You-Tube video of this process awhile back.
We need to stop trying to reinvent the wheel.
If it is very soft and already gooey, applications of a wax and grease remover (3M 8987 Adhesive Cleaner in an aerosol) will soften it and allow you to wipe it away after multiple applications as well.