I recently upgrade my Y-block with a PCV system. I cancelled the draft tube (sealed with a metal plate) and drilled a small hole on the very back of the valve valley pan and installed the PCV Valve. The only problem I'm noticing is that I see traces of oil on the vacuum lines. At first, I wasn't to worry, but now I notice oil at the carburetor's air filter. Just wondering if anyone has experience this issue on Y-block. I attached the PCV valve just in front of the carburetor intake main-full fitting were the vacuum wiper motor would connect and the actuator for the heater connect.
The Y-block OEM PCV valley trays had damper/deflector to shield the PCV from direct 'splashes' of oil getting sucked into the valve. OEM valve covers have some type of shield so the PCV draws air without direct oil contact. Aftermarket valve covers require some fabrication to make a dead air space to draw air for the PCV.
I have used a stainless scrub pad stuffed inside the deflector in the valve cover to separate oil from fumes. All late model engine use a similar setup to keep oil from being sucked out of the engine. FEs had a basket in the rear of the intake, late 302s had a basket in the rear of the valley.
That basket was the cause of oil leaks in those 302s (mid 80s - mid 90s), the crud would block off the flow of the fumes and cause positive pressure in the crank case. Pull the basket, soak in cleaner, rinse, dry re-install and oil leak gone.....been there, done that with my 93 F150.
The stock OEM valley cover for a 57 has NO baffling/shield for a PCV. Only Tbirds with rear road draft tubes and 61 and later engines had them in the valley cover for a PCV system. If you just drill into the stock cover there is no baffling to prevent oil from being sucked up. When you say oil in the air filter I assume you have run a hose from the oil filler cap to the air cleaner housing? If oil is present there you either have too much blow by or the PCV isn't working correctly..
Great information. Has anyone upgrade to a PCV Valve and eliminated draft tube on their OEM engine? Not sure how to do it the right way.
Both of my engines have been upgraded to a PC system using the 61-64 valley cover. Here is how the factory set up looks for 2V & 4V carbs. Mine isn't exact because I run mine into the Holley carb rather then the spacer plate.
I just wanted to ask that the PCV valve you are using is flowing in the right direction?
Interesting, by watching a couple of images On-line I placed my pcv directly into the valve valley. I might try to move the pcv as showed in the picture provided. It makes sense to place the pcv by the intake manifold. If any oil wants to make it to the intake, it has a lot of area to drain any oil back.
That may help. I don't have the metal tube like shown in the diagram for the 4V, I just use vacuum hose but plan to make a tube in the future.
That canister looking part that bolts to the back of the block (#6A665) is the baffle to separate the oil that is in mist form and return it to the valley. Your PCV valve should be sourced from a similar sized and level of tune engine as yours is now.
Part (#6A665) may help but the actual baffling is on the underside of the valley cover and is filled with a mesh material.
My E code valley pan had the T bird style breather pipe. Found a PCV grommet to fit the hole and put the valve there, Don't know what the valve was from, had several NOS ones. Teed the 3/8 hose to both carb. bases. Fabricated block off plate with a half inch nipple to route steel tubing to nipple welded in bottom of air cleaner for filtered air intake. Plug holes in oil filler cap to get only filtered air to system. Works fine. No more oil stink or drips.
this is how a factory 61-up valley cover looks inside. the PCV intake is under the square pan to the rear and has quite a huge shielding area (there is a small weld nut that you can see to the rear and it takes the long screw that goes through the little breather neck on the valley cover- as pictured in Jim's diagrams). you can also see, that to the front there is a huge divider panel, that separates the filler tube from the back of the valley chamber. I had to repair that so the little spot welded brackets are not og. It is some fun trivia that the pressing in that divider panel looks a lot like a 1932 Ford firewall stamping. :001:
(https://up.picr.de/37168744lb.jpg)
G beat me to posting a picture. So I'll just post the other side :003: Not mine but you can see where the cap installs.
Jim is there really steel wool or mesh inside that square PCV baffle pan ? there wasn't any in mine, but somebody possibly removed that ?
This is what is in an FE. I am almost positive there is supposed to be that type of mesh filter in a later Y-block.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FE-Ford-Intake-PCV-Oil-Separator-Mesh-For-Original-Ford-Basket/283614690784?hash=item4208c0bde0:g:h9sAAOSwflBbq-TI
Lynn, Jim. is this supposed to go in the little round canister shaped breather neck that bolts onto the valley cover or is this supposed to be stuffed underneath in the square baffle tray/pan?
Yes. something was in there originally. One of mine didn't have it and the other one just had flakes and little chunks of what ever it was. Most likely what Lynn showed for the FE and probably the same material that was used in some breather caps on the oil fill tubes?
Edit: I misread you question, I think there was material in the square baffle part, not the canister.
thank you Jim, it makes more sense. The canister seems too small to hold any mesh or you would have to squeeze it much too tight obviously. So I will be looking for mesh inserts for my restored vally cover, great info, as usual ! thx guys !
My issue was I just couldn't decide what type of material to use and I had a fear of choosing the wrong one that might deteriorate and end up in the oil I didn't put any in mine. I will be doing my 3000 mile oil change next week and it's down just a little less the 1/2 quart so that where it may be going. When I swapped the intake and heads from my first engine to the new one there was no indication of oil in any of the ports or on the intake valves so I'm not sure if thats where the oil is going?
Not related but just had a thought about the other posts about music. That post brought back a ton of old memories. I was in the the sound business from 1966 to 1986..
Jim, over the years I have used stainless scrub pads. They are woven pretty loose and when "stuffed" into the baffle stay in place very well and have not broken apart. If they are too large I pull them apart a little and trim with a heavy shears.
Of note the place I used them first was in the engine (Boss 302) that I was racing. Twice a year tear down showed no problems and unlike a fellow racer with "blow by" issues and leaking rear main my engine had none.
I feel really good making the recommendation for the stainless scrubbies......
your recommendation sounds very experienced, Bill. Only thing I am thinking about loud is that any potential ss mesh debris would not get caught by magnetic oil drain screw or magnets placed in sump. But then I don't know how magnetic or not ss scrubb pads would be. I will try that later! It's incredible with how much info, ideas and experience you guys come up all the time ! awesome !
Jim let's entertain the music stuff later on in the morning coffee topic. Looking forward in hearing your stories.
Thank you Bill, I had considered SS but chickened out, so if I ever have to do it again I will consider that option. I don't know what the original material was but it didn't hold up over time very well or at least on the two I had.
Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2019-11-11 09:10
Jim let's entertain the music stuff later on in the morning coffee topic. Looking forward in hearing your stories.
Stories? I could write a book :003:
I bought different brands and sizes of scrub pads and tested with magnets. GOOD NEWS !
all of them do stick to magnet, even though ss. :001:
I think the flat 4" size will be great for the valley pan baffle.
(https://up.picr.de/37200832pi.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/37200833so.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/37200834te.jpg)
The medium size is very close to what I use. The looser weave allows "scrunching" for a tight fit and still breaths well.
That looks good. I'm not about to pull my covers off at this point so I may try pushing some down in from the opening for the cap and see what happens.