The other day my Optima Red Top battery, which is an AGM type battery, discharged down to 4.6 volts due to a faulty door jam interior light switch. When I hooked my standard (lead acid) battery charger to it, it would not charge. It throws the internal circuit breaker. I was able to charge it and save the battery by doing the following:
1. Hooked battery jumper cables from my truck (lead acid) to the Optima. This will fool the Optima to accept a charge. I had the Optima out of the car.
2. Hooked standard battery charger to Optima.
3. After charging for one hour, it read about 8 volts. Once you charge it over 9.6 volts, it should accept charge without being hooked to standard battery. So I charged it for another hour whereas it read 11 volts. The Optima got slightly warm, that's okay, don't let it get hot.
4. I disconnected the charger and let it rest for a hour, then charged it (without jumper cable) for another 45 minutes. It now read 12.2 volts.
5. I hooked my AGM trickle charger to it for the three hours it took to get battery to full charge; 12.7 volts.
Runs just fine, absolutely no issues holding a charge or accepting charge from car's alternator.
I'll try to attach youtube link that gave me the instruction: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oNpkVnSG9uI
Hey Les. Thanks for that info. My optima is about 6 years old..have never had to charge it that I can remember, maybe once. My charger is the newer style that has an agm setting.
Door jamb switch...........the ones classic auto parts sell are junk (long time ago). The crimping on them is inadequate so they fall apart. Ron Francis' are put together very well, I've had no issues since swapping the C.A.P. switches for RF.
Do you still have the original wiring? I had thought you had replaced it.
Hello Rich. Ya, replaced the wiring. Got new switches coming.
When you get them, check how well the metal flange is crimped.
I know some guys don't care for Harbor Freight, but I have purchased 2 of their Centech battery chargers. (one here in Branson and one in Port Angeles) They have dual charging abilities...one for AGM and one for standard batteries. Not overly expensive...but have done the job well. If that info is of any use.
Rich, to you point about those cheap door jamb switches: I got a pair from Dennis Carpenter, they are junk! already ordered two from Ron Francis.
I have brought a totally dead Optima back by hooking it to a lead acid battery and putting my charger on the lead acid battery. I don't know why but this fools the dumb ass Optima, every time. I was also told by an Optima dealer that you should be able to shock the Opitma back to life with a 50 amp hit from the charger. I have never tried that. I do believe that you can't run a gel cell, flat dead too many times before you'll be out buying a new one. This whole issue caused me to install a battery cutout switch for those longer idle periods. Especially when I remember to actually use it.
Doug, optima isn't a gel cell battery it's a AGM (?glass mat).
Les, let us know how the Ron Francis switches look when you get them. It's been 5 years or so since I got mine from them.
Good Morning all , since you are on the subject of jamb switches I have a question. My custom 300 2 door had broken wires on the switches when I got it, I spliced in new wire to the d j switches , when I hook up one switch the light works , but when I hook up the other the fuse blows? Do the two wires on the jam switches have to go on a particular pole or is either ok? thanks Barry
It doesn't matter which pole goes to which wire. These switches switch to ground, not power.
Rich; Absorbent Glass Mat. I'll let you know about Ron Francis switches, it sure is hit and miss with some of this reproduced stuff.
Sounds to me like you have a short somewhere. I don't believe it makes a difference which post gets which wire, but others here could tell you for sure. Two things you don't want to skimp by on.....brakes and wiring. Sounds like it's maybe time for a new wiring harnesss, or at least new wires on the circuit that uses that switch. Also, original switches? aftermarket? Posibility it's the switch itself.......obviously from this thread we've had that problem.
The door jam switches do not go to ground, they are hot on one lead and supply power to the bulbs that go to ground when the door is opened or the head light switch is rotated all the way CW. That circuit has it's own 5 Amp fuse on the end of the head light switch.
I have not found a good jam switch every. Got them from several of the suppliers over the years and from NAPA and none of them are 100%. The Ecline line seams to be the best but some of them still get "touchy" from time to time.
Thanks , i'll look at it some more.
It is not the low battery that won't charge. Chargers kick out when the battery is below about 10 volts, that's why the two battery trick works.
Ron.