how to repair fender eyebrow attachment
I'm assuming this is a question, and not the start of a how-to?
My question.is this prepaint? or is the car finish painted?
I drilled and epoxied (JB Weld) studs for one car. Used panel adhesive on another car. Still in place after several years on both '57s.
Ford issued a tech bulletin about this. Drill 3 or 4 holes through the eyebrow into the fender, counter sink the holes with a bigger drill bet, and use oval head trim screws to fasten the eyebrow, and daub some paint over the screw heads.
And we've had several guys ask how to fix the eyebrows where somebody had drilled thru them to attach. :003:
I'd go with either of Gary/Gasman's recommendations if it were me. That panel bond is good stuff.
I have been following this forum for a few years but this is my first post. I found a simple fix for the missing stud problem. I ground the studs off even with the casting. Once you do this you will see there is a slight recess in the casting where the studs are. There is also a mark on the lip of the casting where the stud was located. I then made a pattern from cardboard that followed the recess and transferred that to a piece of sheet metal. I don't remember what gauge I used but it fit flush with the surrounding casting. I then marked on the sheet metal where the studs were located using the marks on the casting. I then took some stove bolts which I think were #12 and ground the heads to get the right angle and welded them to the sheet metal. This took a little time but the holes in the fender are big enough that you have some room for error. I then used panel bond and bonded the sheet metal to the casting. The eyebrow will fit tight to the fender. The piece of sheet metal will fit either side you just have to flip it over so you don't need to make two patterns. Mine have been on my car for three years with no problems.
Jerry
Great idea. Thanks for sharing.
That's a real slick trick.
Quote from: glr7533 on 2021-02-21 00:34
I have been following this forum for a few years but this is my first post.
Jerry
Thanks for the tip! And...don't stop posting! Evident you have some ideas we could use from time to time!
These are all great tips. I have several of these pieces that I feared were junk. Apparently not...
Anyone just use panel bond to attach them permanently to the fenders and eliminate the parting lines, or is that a bridge too far?
I eliminated all the seams on my car except the ones that were necessary to facilitate disassembly like the nosepiece. I had seen several '57s that had the eyebrows and taillamp housings "filled in", but cracked after painting/driving, so I was reluctant to do it, but I did, and I have had no issues with cracking even after the ultimate test of a collision and 40k miles of driving. As with everything else, it's all in the prep work and materials choice. There's more than one way to skin a cat, and I did not use the panel bond because I didn't know anything about it at the time. Frankly, 3M panel bond would probably be my first choice now. I'll come back later after I kick my memory in gear.
I'm with Rich on this. Prep is the key. Then sealing it up to prevent moisture of any kind or amount from entering the area. My eye brows only had two studs on each and neither of them were very stout looking. They are "glued in place and seam sealed, they will never be taken off without destroying something!
Unfortunately, I can't remember for sure what I used to "glue" them on. I did have all the studs, so my main purpose was eliminating the seams, not just attaching. I'm 80% sure I used Por-Patch for the adhesive. Por-Patch is a thickened version of Por-15, it comes in a tube, and is a very strong adhesive aside from it's rustproofing abilities. I'm pretty sure it was por-patch because I do remember being concerned about not wanting it actually protruding into the seam area, because the bodyfiller would have a problem adhering.
After tightening the studs' nuts, I cleaned off any excess with lacquer thinner and after it set up, and flipped the fender upside down to force more por-15 ito any cracks. I would have done that whether I used Por-Patch for the adhesive, or a slow setting epoxy adhesive. After that, it was fill with kitty-hair body filler.
The same was done with the taillight housing.
some pics:
My observations on 3M Panel Bond. Based on the posts on this forum, I used it on my early bronco roof rain rail rehab. It was easy to apply, and spread. It sanded nicely, and the new paint adhered well. It has held up well for the past year, no cracks, or rust showing through. I'm sold on the 3M product, and would use again, and recommend it.
I noticed a very large price difference between my local dealer and buying it on line. I always try to support my local paint store, but this time the price difference was too great. Ebay was cheap, and had fast delivery.
3M #8115 adhesive from local dealer list $60.33 (minus my 15% discount) is still $51.28
3M #8115 adhesive from Ebay Store $36.25
And the application gun is expensive....best price I found was $65.
Yes, the panel bond was incredible for the rain gutters! You can get it very close by using your finger for smoothing to shape, then what sanding is left is super easy.
The $36 is about what I paid at my local paint supply and they loaned me a gun. Like it was said earlier, the panel bond was easy to work. I trimmed a paint stir stick to a pleasing shape and just used it to shape the rain gutter seams.