I know this, like many of my questions, will have a limited number of people able to provide the info I'm asking.
What is the actual brake pedal travel needed to apply the brakes using a hydroboost? If I attach the pushrod directly to the pedal in the stock location, the pedal is about 2" above the floor. My idea is to add metal to the front edge of the pedal and raise the pivot point about 3/4 of an inch.
If I'm thinking correctly, this will decrease the throw on the hydroboost push rod but also raise the pedal closer to the same height of the clutch pedal. I'm worried that the decreased travel of the push rod may not be enough to activate the brakes sufficiently. Thoughts?
let me see if I can find where I posted about modifying the connector rod. I don't think I can get under the dash to measure the travel while somebody pushes on the brake pedal...........if I didn't have my console it would be no problem. Also, I don't know if it makes any difference, but my brake pedal is from a '61 w/ automatic.
I couldn't find the old thread I did on the hydroboost, but this is some info I posted on my 4.6 install thread:
https://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=3750.375
I've upgraded to manual, dual master cylinder, vacuum boosters and hydraulic boosters and all required custom push rods. Custom brakes equal custom push rod. Most of my upgrades used the manual brake pedal. I used the original pedal attachment point with the pedal at the manual at-rest point (all the way up to the bumper).
PICs: One of my installs.
Thanks. That confirms, to me, that my thoughts about raising the the push point on the brake arm is not the best idea.
Rich and Gary, both of you've been great about replying and assisting with this install. I'll be customizing the the rod later today. Perhaps some of my questions and your replies will help someone in the future.
For me, it's just payback.........no question my car never would have got finished if it were not for the help I got here.
UPDATE: The hydroboost is positioned on the firewall very similar to Gary's. I also used a heim joint and a stand off. My rubber boot is positioned on the front end of the stand off vs the firewall end. I have yet to depress the pedal to try it. I have been trying to set up the alt, ps, and ac brackets but haven't been able to find the correct brackets to use V-belts. I decided to check out a serpentine system. I am using a 74 302 and have a stock timing gear cover. With the serpentine system, I'll have to change out the timing gear cover and water pump. I made a trip to the local pick-a-part and retrieved a complete serpentine system, air punp, alt, ac compressor, ps pump. The one thing I didn't obtain from the 1989 F 150 was the timing gear cover. Any comments or opinions on this acquisition? I still don't have a ps control valve but I am looking at one on the internet.
I am thinking about disc rear brakes. Somewhere, I've read about (2003?) Explorer brakes being a bolt on swap.
There has been tons written about rear disc brakes. At the top of this page, select HOME, select SEARCH and search EXPLORER DISC. There is much to read about donor vehicles for big and small bearing rear disc.
Thanks. I am simply considering other things while awaiting parts to complete tasks already began. By doing the search, I found out that '96-'02 Crown Vic or Grand Marquis are the direct replacement for the small bearing rearend. The Explorer parts will need to be modified to fit my small bearing rearend. As long as one is searching for salvage yard parts, I would be better off picking the parts that fit w/o modification, IMHO.
Yep...the first decision is big or small bearing. Explorer for big bearing and Crown Vic/Grand Marquis donors for small bearing.