Hi All. While doing a complete front steering OH I have come to the idler arm. After installing the new bushing{nut} in the center link and frame bracket I installed the idler arm to the specs in my 1957 manual. It states turn the idler arm till in bottoms in the bushing{nut} and then back out 19/32 give or take 3/64. Well 19/32 is .59375 inches. That is almost 5/8ths of an inch. If you do this on the bracket end you wind up with a lot of slop in the whole assembly. Am I missing something here. Thanks
If you replaced the bushings on the idler since they screw on the the shaft. there shouldn't be a difference in the "slop" based on how far they are screwed on. I think the spacing is for the seal. Maybe the threads on the arm itself are worn?
Hi Lynn. The bushings thread into the center link and the frame bracket. Those threads are fine and tight. My issue is the set up clearances indicated in my post from the Ford manual. If I use those specs by turning the idler arm out of the center link bushing and the frame bracket bushing the slop is increased. All parts pertaining to the idler arm are new. A friend of mine who is an old stock car racer/ builder put forth the idea of running the idler arm up snug, back it off until facing straight ahead install the frame bracket up snug and back off till it aligns with frame. By doing that if I get approx 1'8 in up and down play lock it up and get an alignment. I'm confused. I could bolt it all together and let the alignment shop decide the best solution. Thanks for your interest and reply. Greg
OK, this idler arm just came about an hour ago. So these little hard plastic bushing are the only thing that keeps the arm from wollering around in that tab attached to the frame? Seems like those bushngs are not even long enough to cover the threaded areas of the part. Ford actually engineered this part this way?
'50s idler arm designs were crap. Power steering and manual idler arms are different. Idler arm failures were so common that several aftermarket kits were available. I struggled to get acceptable results from all the current idler arm replacements...even a NOS arm was unacceptable. If I adjusted out the up/down runout, then the idler arm was too tight and restricted steering. Then I remembered back-in-the-day seeing aftermarket kits. I finally found a NORS kit on eBay. The kit had plenty of shims and was greaseable. Worked great and is still going years later.
My bracket on the frame does not look like that.
Correct! I forgot that I upgraded the Raunch Wagon's manual steering to power. The donor car was a '64 Galaxie that I pulled out of the weeds. The donor box was not worn out and a better, smaller box than the '57 box. Also, I wanted PS, rag joint separated steering box, and three speed automatic column. The aftermarket supported '64 parts better with new steering wheels, horn components, shift sector, and gear indicators. Anyway...those idler arm kits were universal kits fitting several years and styles of idler arms. There were always several left-over pieces after installing one of these kits.
Quote from: Gene on 2026-05-22 12:18My bracket on the frame does not look like that.
That looks like my 1959 frame bracket, which is a heavier casting, and looks like it should be much sturdier than the simple flat stamped steel bracket used on 57-58 Ford cars.
Quote from: Gregs57 on 2023-04-07 12:04Hi All. While doing a complete front steering OH I have come to the idler arm. After installing the new bushing{nut} in the center link and frame bracket I installed the idler arm to the specs in my 1957 manual. It states turn the idler arm till in bottoms in the bushing{nut} and then back out 19/32 give or take 3/64. Well 19/32 is .59375 inches. That is almost 5/8ths of an inch. If you do this on the bracket end you wind up with a lot of slop in the whole assembly. Am I missing something here. Thanks
Page 267 of my manual. Greg I am repairing the vary thing you describe. Someone put my idler arm together and the thing would bob up and down on the manual frame bracket. It wallered out a hole in that bracket. I have a new bracket, and a new arm. Those caps (called bushings in my manual) are left hand thread.
Think I am going to remove my bracket from the frame (2 through-bolts), and then unhook my idler arm from the drag link as an assembly. Put my new parts together on the workbench without my final torque. Then start my idler into the drag link, then on to the frame. My intent is to turn the idler arm so that it can swing 90 degrees left, or 90 degrees right. Looks to me if ya tighten everything up ya won't be able to urn the wheel from side to side. If you do it will bind.
Anyone have any thoughts?