I have a really worn out door latch, my door is really loose while driving. Compared with passenger side I could tell there is something loose or worn out. Are these door latches repairable? I have never taken one part?
Unfortunately, they are not reproduced that I'm aware of, nor is anyone rebuilding them. It took me 4 years to find a NOS driver's side, and that was 10+ years ago. At that, I ended up modifying a Mercury latch. (Passenger side was easy find). most wear comes from the shaft on the starwheel wearing the hole in the protective shield. This is easily viewed, you'll probably see a now-oversized hole.
One other thing to check first............the safety new design of the '57 latch makes the starwheel actually catch on TWO teeth on the door jamb's latch plate. This is verified by closing the door easily to feel if it's just catching the first tooth. This is wheen the door is 1/2" or so from being flush, but still won't let loose without pushing the button. If it does that, and will close " flush" with a harder close, then it's catching on both.
If the hole in the starwheel's shield doesn't appear to be worn too badly, then you may have another issue. Behind the starwheel (still outside the door frame) is a bearing. That bearing rides up on the guide plate that is on the latch plate in front of the two teeth. The starwheel bearing is suppose to actually cause the door to lift about 1/16-1/8 when it latches. That keeps some of the weight of the door being lifted and preventing rattling.
Thank you Rich I will check it when I'm back home.
I may have a good used one, Ill check in the next couple of days, I remember when I was parting 57s out that the rear door latches on a 4dr were the same they just had a bracket that comes off and they usally were way better shape because of less use.
Thank you that would be great to have. How much would you want for it?
i will see if I have one first and the condition.
So, I have a nice one its tight and the springs are good with no gouges or chipped teeth.
$22 includes shipping
I disassembled mine by grinding the rivets and built up the star wheel with wire feed. ground and filed to original shape. Also Welded up holes and resized. Welded back together. This was 6 yrs ago at least, works fine. New strikers are readibly available.
I remembered I posted on the rebuild way back 9/14/2016. Titled, Rebuilding door lock assemblies. With pictures.
If the star wheel only catches on 2 teeth, then can you rotate the star wheel so it catches on other teeth? Mine will rotate by hand.
Mike
We were refering to the two teeth on the catch plate, not the starwheel.
Quote from: 57chero on 2023-11-21 20:01I may have a good used one, Ill check in the next couple of days, I remember when I was parting 57s out that the rear door latches on a 4dr were the same they just had a bracket that comes off and they usally were way better shape because of less use.
If he doesn't take it I sure will!
I don't understand when you post something that somebody needs you never hear from them again, it's happened a few times on here. So, if (chipingo17) doesn't want it, it's up for grabs.
Eric did say he wasn't home when he posted the inquiry......maybe out of town for Thanksgiving.
Quote from: 57chero on 2023-11-25 13:02I don't understand when you post something that somebody needs you never hear from them again, it's happened a few times on here. So, if (chipingo17) doesn't want it, it's up for grabs.
Please keep me in mind for that door latch. The chance of finding parts for old cars anywhere up here is next to zero. There are no old cars whatsoever in the few wrecking yards here. I have seen photos of huge wrecking yards full of old cars that you guys in the lower 48 states are so much closer to. Ones that some of you may even be able to drive to in a fairly short time.
Then there is outrageously high cost of shipping. Down there you might be able to get something like a bumper or another fairly large part shipped to you for a fairly reasonable price by UPS or FedEx. That can not happen here. I don't dare think about ordering something like that due to the price that UPS charges for shipping. In fact if I want to order anything from a business down south I will not do so unless they can send it via the USPS. Shipping prices from UPS are two & sometimes even three times the cost of the same item being shipped/mailed via the US Post office.
Sorry, I'm back I was out of town for the holidays. I inspected my door latch and found there's a lot of play side to side on the start. I'm guessing the springs are worn out? Would there be any way fix this issue?
57chero, I sent you a pm.
Thanks. Would any one know how to remove link arm clips that attach to the door latch?
From the 1957 Ford shop manual, the attached photo shows the clips being removed by rotating them away from the rod which then allows the rod to be pulled out of the hole in the door lock lever.
Thank you great pic. Thanks.
Received door latch and installed.Thanks again it worked beautifully, door feels like new. Not sure if I could rebuilt the one I have. I believe that mine has a bad star bearing and mechanism that releases door from opening and closing (worn out to much play). Not sure if it make any sense.
Quote from: chapingo17 on 2023-12-27 17:17Received door latch and installed.Thanks again it worked beautifully, door feels like new. Not sure if I could rebuilt the one I have. I believe that mine has a bad star bearing and mechanism that releases door from opening and closing (worn out to much play). Not sure if it make any sense.
Whatever you do, DON'T TOSS IT. The Thunderbird parts places that sell parts for the 55-57 Thunderbirds sell rebuilt units for those models. I am sure whoever is doing it for them can rebuild the passenger cars ones too. I scored two new door latch mechanisms for my 57 Skyliner and I am going to get my old ones rebuilt. I may need them later or I may find someone that needs them and will sell them.
Quote from: cokefirst on 2023-12-28 18:15Whatever you do, DON'T TOSS IT. The Thunderbird parts places that sell parts for the 55-57 Thunderbirds sell rebuilt units for those models. I am sure whoever is doing it for them can rebuild the passenger cars ones too. I scored two new door latch mechanisms for my 57 Skyliner and I am going to get my old ones rebuilt. I may need them later or I may find someone that needs them and will sell them.
Good info to keep on file for the future! Thanks!
Quote from: cokefirst on 2023-12-28 18:15...I am going to get my old ones rebuilt. I may need them later or I may find someone that needs them and will sell them.
I still need one for my Ranchero's driver side door!
Let us know about getting them rebuilt when you know for sure.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2023-12-28 23:30Let us know about getting them rebuilt when you know for sure.
+1
Ok if some one needs one let me know. I will need to be rebuild.
Quote from: chapingo17 on 2023-12-29 12:05Ok if some one needs one let me know. I will need to be rebuild.
Post #24 >> "I still need one for my Ranchero's driver side door!"
Tom; I'm away for the winter but if you don't find one before June I'll rebuild it for you for free. Contact me in late May. Tom
Sorry to bring up an old thread but I'm looking for a latch on my driver side for my 57 Fairlane. I'm having a hard time locking the door. If I lock it and close the door the door just unlockes and I think it's the play in the latch. Anyone have any advice or a latch I can buy off them? Thanks so much.
Unfortunately, that's just the way these old latches work (where you cannot lock the door prior to closing it). The final door must be locked with the key. Sometimes these latches get pretty stiff and don't like to be locked with the key, requiring disassembly and lubing (or at least removing the interior panels to get access to the latch mechanism for a lubricant). I'm not sure if this was a design intent (so you don't lock the keys in the car) but you have to lock the last closed door with a key.
Just keep looking everywhere. It took me 4 years to find a NOS driver's side latch. The passenger side not so bad. Nobody rebuilds them that I'm aware of. It's usually the hole in the cover over the starwheel that wears out. Yours is probably agg-shaped.
Does your latch click on TWO teeth when it closes? you should be able to push the door in very easy until the first tooth catches. At that point, the door will be loose, and maybe 1/2" or so from being flush and tight.
NEVER MIND....I just reread your post. All '57 Fords have to be locked with the key. You cannot push the lock button down and then close the door.
Pat Fleishman did an article on how to change that with a mod to the latch, but honestly, most of us don't want to do that because it's too easy to lock your keys in the car.
welcome to the forum!!
Wait. I thought rear doors latches 4 door and station wagons don't need the key. I'm fairly certain as I put 4door latch on my car as the star wheel what toast. Btw if you keep a search for latches on eBay. You might get lucky. I saw a few nos one for 40/50 dollar each in the last year and it was a buy it now. Crazy cheap.
The issue is that even when I lock it with a key I can press the button on the outside handle and it unlocked. Nothing keeps the lock locked so something is wrong for sure. I think it's the latch with the star teeth on it but it's hard to find a reasonable replacement.
If anyone else has had this issue and knows the solution that would be amazing.
Thank you all. Happy to be here.
the locks actuate small levers, which are made from potmetal or such. They are known to be prone to fail, break, or fall down inside the door. You must be aware of that there are LH and RH and they are not interchangeable.
I think that is your actual problem. the key lock does not block the actual latch mechanism if said potmetal parts are damaged or missing. I will try to dig out some pics.
This is the piece you want to check out. drivers side. I can't remember exactly, but this must be the old broken one, that was laying inside the door. the little spring somehow connects it to the (key) door lock.
Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2017-08-18 14:02(http://up.picr.de/30116670wp.jpg)
(http://up.picr.de/30116671yz.jpg)
I found more detailed pics. It is obvious, how Ford engineers designed that little potmetal claw with a predetermined breaking point. the little part that goes into the lock cylinder ( which is actually broken off and missing on the old piece in the pic above).
hope this helps.
57CS locks 4s.jpgPICT1354.JPG
So you don't think it's the latch? The latch has some serious play to it. Also where can I find a piece like that to fix it? Seems like it's going to be a mission to find that. Thank you for the input.
Welcome the forum! My Custom will not stay locked on the passenger door but it does on the drivers side. I may have a latch for the driver side but it will need to be repaired, if you want it and I can find it, it is yours for the asking.
Quote from: Soleger24 on 2025-03-31 22:18The issue is that even when I lock it with a key I can press the button on the outside handle and it unlocked. Nothing keeps the lock locked so something is wrong for sure. I think it's the latch with the star teeth on it but it's hard to find a reasonable replacement.
If anyone else has had this issue and knows the solution that would be amazing.
Thank you all. Happy to be here.
This indicates a different problem than what we first thought, and DJ is correct, the little "fingers thingy" is more than likely your problem. Very common issue, and at one time somebody was repoping them, but not cast. The repops, if you can find them, were a welded/machined piece probably much stronger then the die cast OEM.
Be aware there were at least two lengths of those fingers available. I believe the country squires requires a longer set. At one time, I found a set that was actually shorter than my Custom's. That was an easy fix though using a common home plumbing part.
Thank you all for the info. I found a few online actually. The question is does it need the spring shown? I found them but with no spring. They are inexpensive so I don't mind buying and trying.
The other thing I had noticed the play in the Star shaped latch has a ton of play in it. So it can move a couple clicks if locked or not and the other side (passenger side) has no play in it.
you may as well have 2 different problems at the same time. It would probably best to pull the door card and check the little lock claw first. and find a decent latch mechanism as well. I think Abe suggested, that a drivers side rear door latch off a 4dr may work as well, without having the non self locking function (without key).
That little spring is just to hold the finger claw thingy whatever it is called to the lock cylinder. you can probably replace it with a generic spring from a typical universal spring set that you can find at home improvement, hardware or automotive stores.
Rich, you may be right that the Country Squire has longer lock 'claws' or such, because of the faux wood trim, but I don't think so. I think there is a recess in the wood trim for the door lock.
I know for certain, that the drivers and passgr 'claws' are different, so that may be the main reason for the difference in length. or maybe they were just mirror image versions.
I would confirm that the little claw is mirrored left to right. Get them mixed up and they don't work correctly.
It took me a while to figure that out!