I started this a while back on a couple of other forums and thought maybe I should post it here also.
PLEASE let me know if it's not appropriate and if I should take it down.
I'll drag the posts over a few at a time until it's caught up.
As some of you know, I picked up this rust-free (pretty rare for New England) '68 GT. It was a Las Vegas car, so it has the usual cooked topsides (including the dash pad), but is a very solid car.
It's a stock rebuilt 302 w/a C4 but I am going to build it as 347 stroker w/ either a toploader or T5. The guy who started working on it installed all new front suspension with Wilwood power disc brakes. He also had the seats reupholstered and it came with new door panels, new rug, visors and a headliner.
(https://i.imgur.com/ncdXziE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EK1Udx9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cZqRqDL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BIbrGSL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jw1BYKR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OUpQa86.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wJv9v2f.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7yrUjYN.jpg)
My plan for the Torino are a full Resto, but not a show car, it will be a driver.
Currently have a stroked 302 so I can keep it somewhat original. It made 455 ft. lbs. of torque and 461 hp on the dyno.
(https://i.imgur.com/dFnpJxF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5kjgAJv.jpg)
Started to strip it back down to bare metal:
(https://i.imgur.com/PRN65gT.jpg)
This Harbor Freight Metal Surfacer makes short work of it:
(https://i.imgur.com/RHMVPR1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/W238aIF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RGh2kjq.jpg)
I think it's cool to see something besides a 57 occasionally as long as its a Ford product, what's that tool with the brush called.
I'm sure no one will have a problem with watching that build. Cool looking car.
Thanks guys.
The tool is from Harbor Freight and it's called a "Surface Conditioning Tool"
(https://i.imgur.com/hW1ZK6c.jpg)
I have one as well. Nice tool. Wish I had one when I stripped the Courier!
I think it is fine to post this here Joe. Car looks to be a real solid platform. Even has all the letters on the hood...that is rare!
Hope to see more!
Forward progress....
(https://i.imgur.com/1FYLapd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9fQ51mr.jpg)
I am amazed that there is no rot on this car; quarter panels are usually the first place to rot...
(https://i.imgur.com/OtrfQdw.jpg)
That is a beautiful car and totally appropriate for this website (after all it will be 57 years old in '25). Having a new interior is a big head start but it looks like you have had that paint stripping tool in your hands for quite a few hours (body looks amazing). Keep us posted on progress. Are you planning to paint the same color or something different? Either way it's gonna be a showstopper.
Another hooray! for Harbor Freight. They didn't have that tool when I started stripping mine almost 20 years ago. That said, I'm not sure I could have done my car without Harbor Freight. I certainly couldn't have bought major brands stuff I needed........power tools, welders, compressors,jacks, etc etc. Actually, I AM SURE,.........I never would have got it finished. There's just so many tools you need to restore a car 100%, and a normal person would have built that stuff up over the years, but if you're like I was and doing it for the first time, it seems like everytime you turn around another tool is needed. I had one rollaway and chest 20 years ago. I nw have 5, and a rack of power tools.
The OG color is Royal Burgundy, same "X" paint code as the 65-66 Mustang, except it was called Vintage Burgundy in 1965.
I have two red cars already and I am going with Medowlark Yellow, code "W", as it was the color of my Dad's car back in the day:(I was 14)
I will put the GT stripe back on, only painted black instead of vinyl and add the optional GT hood scoop.
(https://i.imgur.com/Qu7nlGQ.png)
It amazes me that there is so much desert sand under the moldings . Here's when I pulled the back window:
(https://i.imgur.com/LqrII8u.jpg)
This stuff is in every nook and cranny of the car.
(https://i.imgur.com/UTCveFa.jpg)
Nice color. Good choice.
Yea...sand gets into EVERYTHING! But you are right about the condition of the body being good. That tool is a life saver!
Oh yea...what is the frame with the wheels/tires and no body for? Inquiring minds (mine anyhow) need to know.
'72 Chevelle I was restoring for the guy who is going to paint my Torino.
The sun baked paint/rust on the top of the hood and trunk were too much for the stripper so they got media blasted:
(https://i.imgur.com/cZqRqDL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KHEnjaa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/F1hidrg.jpg)
Sandblasting also makes it easier to clean up the undersides with all the reinforcements.
(https://i.imgur.com/dvkNUXy.jpg)
The plan was to change this from an Auto to a manual 5 speed. Had a friend down the Cape who had a T-5 setup for sale so I took a ride:
(https://i.imgur.com/Pu31yar.jpg)
When I got there, it was exactly what i needed; he asked me what I was going to do w/ the motor so i told him I was selling the engine and tranny. It just so happened he needed a 1968 block to register a Mustang . so i sold it to him for a little more than the cost of the tranny, bell housing, fork, etc., so....
I headed home and pulled the nose off the car and yanked the engine & tranny.
(https://i.imgur.com/FkybKis.jpg)
He picked up the motor, but didn't want the C4, so I put it on Marketplace...
I can't believe it sold in one day :003:
(https://i.imgur.com/8ZE2jxY.jpg)
Excellent choice on the color. I got burgundied-out years ago. That's not a lot of "sand" if you live in Texas. We deal with the Texas silt on a daily basis. Dry climate, but windy = always dusting!
When I got my '57 home 12 years ago it was FULL of sandy dirt. The cowl was half full of the stuff and it was even inside of the speedometer. I bought the car from a guy in Michigan, it was built at the Kansas City plant and it spent a long time in Wyoming (I was told). I think it spent a lot of time in a "barn".
Joe, I love that '68 it is one of my favorite Fords. I love FE's so that is a perfect "wrapper"!
Thank you Lynn; I've always loved them too.
I really wanted to go Big Block, but a 428 was just too expensive and would have taken a lot of the "drivability" out of the car. It was important to me to have a nice "driver" for a change.
Mine was from The Kansas city plant too:
(https://i.imgur.com/t1EPD57.jpg)
I must say I was pleasantly surprised that the car had never been hit and still had the factory assembly line chalk marks:
(https://i.imgur.com/dfMjEVe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5wqKey0.jpg)
Spent some time cleaning up the wheel well area and got the splash guards off and sandblasted.
(https://i.imgur.com/N2lvCA9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TkMzmm1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MY2IAQX.jpg)
Got the old rubber and staples off and coated everything with 3M Body Schutz. Used this product for many years and like the finish it leaves. It's also paintable.
(https://i.imgur.com/LYbfsT7.jpg)
I'll order the new rubbers and staples down the road, still plenty to do before that
(https://i.imgur.com/nPXgjMb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sTgGu8b.jpg)
Pulled the gas tank because it had been repaired and it made it easier to clean up the area:
(https://i.imgur.com/LgsFWVL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5ou5dnO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0cJcZ5z.jpg)
I also opted to pull the 8" out for easier access; I will be replacing it with a 9" down the road, unfortunately it's in Pennsylvania, so I just need to go to PA to pick it up: :walk:
(https://i.imgur.com/hmJOd1d.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/w0CEHVg.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IJpXJVv.jpg)
Sure nice working on such a solid, rust free car, isn`t it? Back in 1992, I bought a 1969 Cobra fastback, R code auto with AC. I bought the car in California, but it still had the owners Nevada license plates on it, which he let me drive it back home with. He was from Las Vegas, but was working at Ford Power Parts, which is where I found the car for sale, in the FPP parking lot. I had gone down to So. Cal to watch the 1992 NHRA Winternationals, and was not looking to buy a car, but the car was so solid, and complete, that I couldn`t NOT buy it. So the following Friday, after work, I got a 1 way flight to LAX, met the owner, did the paper work, and headed North for the 1,000+ mile drive up the J5 back into Canada. Like your 68, the paint was badly weathered, and all the window rubbers were rock hard and crumbling, but when I put the car on the lift at work, the undercarriage and floors were were 100 % perfect, and a wipe with a wet rag, showed that the paint on the floors were like new. My Canadian eyes couldn`t believe how good a 23 year old car could be, considering most 69s at home would be full of rust and holes, assuming they were still roadworthy.
Yeah, unfortunately they are few and far between.
Like you, I have neve seen anything like it before. If I ever am looking for a vehicle again, I will start in Vegas.
Now it's time to clean up the underside:
(https://i.imgur.com/WoCslHR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gGnVVb3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XkJfV0i.jpg)
It cleaned up really nice; it still amazes me how nice the metal on this car is. On the 65 years I've spent in this God forsaken state, I have never ever come across a 60's car that didn't have any rot, that includes owning them in the mid 70's!
(https://i.imgur.com/b1US6pb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MozzjIQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/74yAQBu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KYYjCJK.jpg)
Got most of the undersides with 3M Body Schutz:
(https://i.imgur.com/TTAR1hO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DhaaB4K.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3L5lJjL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8U67fwb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8HLvC1T.jpg)
Neighbour down the street has one parked in his vineyard. Not sure if it's a GT or not, didn't want to get too much more into his property.
Hard to say from the pics, looks like the grill emblem is missing.
Pretty cool though!
I had ordered a set of rear springs and hangers because these were the originals so, while it was apart, I figured now was the time to put them in:
(https://i.imgur.com/bvXaxpx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vgTxWSg.jpg)
Little difference in ride height, hopefully it settles:
(https://i.imgur.com/1FYLapd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jUZpTeq.jpg)
Had some Kilmat leftover from another project, so took the nylon cup brush to the floor got it put down
(https://i.imgur.com/O3jIpEw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/a9H5nOt.jpg)
Got the dash, steering column & pedal box pulled out so I can start the manual changeover:
(https://i.imgur.com/SzurIAj.jpg)
I couldn't stand the thought off having an Automatic column with the shifter handle pulled, so purchased a '68 Mustang column. It'll have to be shortened, but at least it will look correct.
(https://i.imgur.com/bETFsLL.jpg)
Also purchased a manual pedal box from a forum member:
(https://i.imgur.com/LRp70La.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eXYKzJl.jpg)
Also going to need to do something with the instrument cluster as it's a little rusty, but I'll work on that tomorrow:
(https://i.imgur.com/OAQYhOw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iQGSytl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UPsoxbH.jpg)
Just a LITTLE rusty! Yikes!
Yeah, I would think it's because it was a Las Vegas car with factory AC, so I'm assuming from condensation???
Just curious how the cowl and firewall area are. My other 69 Cobra fastback, had great outer body sheet metal, trunk pan, and the passenger side front, and both rear floor pans, BUT, it sat outside for several years before I bought it, and the drivers floor pan under the pedals was rotted out, and when I gave the firewall a good look, it was badly rusted thru . Looks like while sitting outside, water sat in the inner cowl long enough to rust thru the cowl, then the water was soaked into the firewall sound deadener pad, and held that moisture to the point that it had several rust holes thru the firewall, and had other areas paper thin. When I put a trouble light under the dash, and turned of the lights in the garage, much of the drivers side firewall let the light thru as if it was a honeycomb. Between all that, plus the transmission tunnel had been badly butchered for a Vertical Gate shifter, and not being much of a fabricator or welder, plus didn`t have enough garage space for the Cobra as well as my race car, I reluctantly sold it. To repair the cowl,firewall and floor pan rust properly, would have been a major undertaking. It really is too bad, as it was a very cool car, I still have the Ford "History 999" report that I requested from FoMoCo in the mid 90s. It was a 6 digit special order DSO, with a 428 Cobra Jet,Ram Air, 4 speed, bench seat, manual steering and brakes, with the only options being the factory tachometer, Rim Blow 3 spoke steering wheel, 3.50 Traction Lok rearend, deluxe seat belts, and a AM Radio with a rear speaker. The special order was due to the color, it had been painted Acapulco Blue, which was not a Fairlane/Torino/Cobra normally available , it was a Mustang color, the only darkish Blue shown in the 69 Fairlane/Torino brochures was Presidential Blue, which is a darker shade. It was a real "Plain Jane" car that a buddy bought new, and had painted steel wheels with dog dish hubcaps. He offered the car to me, less engine and transmission, back in 1977, for $350.00(!), but I was already racing my 66 Fairlane GTA, and didn`t think it made sense to buy a bigger, heavier car of the same chassis. He sold it to another guy, then it traded hands a couple more times, before somebody blew up the 428 that had been installed in 1978 or 79, and then sat outside, rotting away. I sold it to a guy on Vancouver Island in the 90s, no idea what he ever did with the car.
Shame, it would be worth something today $$$$.
Cowl, firewall, floor, etc..., all solid. I really do think the constant running of AC in that scorching climates really caused condensation to settle on the dash.
(https://i.imgur.com/XSTiUXL.jpg)
I got it done today; threw it in the sandblaster, then bead blasted and painted it. My local parts guy even had the voltage regulator for it, thought for sure I was going to have to find one online.
I put it back together, but I might go the Digital Dakota route down the road??
(https://i.imgur.com/63PuE62.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3DswTrw.jpg)
I even had some baby blue paint lol...
(https://i.imgur.com/FGDSSR8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TYxeqEu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QsI65nj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VJFf1Q3.jpg)
That hot dry climate is also hell on interiors.
You're moving right along on this project. Sure wish I could still do that stuff.
Quote from: CobraJoe on 2025-01-03 18:39Shame, it would be worth something today $$$$.
Cowl, firewall, floor, etc..., all solid. I really do think the constant running of AC in that scorching climates really caused condensation to settle on the dash.
(https://i.imgur.com/XSTiUXL.jpg)
given the condition of everything else that is the only way water could get in there and rust it.
Looks good now. Nice work Paisano!
Makes sense to me.
I would think that in a dry climate condensation would be unlikely to form unless the dew point is really over 40 degrees... just a guess. I am familiar with condensation, here it is almost constant. My house central air can produce gallons overnight. I had to install a window unit in my shop to stop surface rust when I built my engine.
What else do you think may have caused the rust in the dash only?
I mean there is ZERO rust in the window frame, or any where's else for that matter. I assume these pieces were unpainted from the factory, but I would think that would only cause a light surface rust???
That is a great question.I would have offered an alternate hypothesis if I had one.... To me it almost looks like a chemical attack of some kind :icon_scratch:
Or maybe it had a leaking or missing windshield, although if that was the case, you would think the floors would be bad. Certainly odd.
I got my Birthday present to myself today:
(https://i.imgur.com/oFV8L9U.jpg)
Tomorrow I need to give some thought to this auto/manual column crap....
(https://i.imgur.com/gPXfHD4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8m8XNc5.jpg)
This looks to be pretty straight forward from what I can see; just gut up the Mustang column and shorten it a few inches. Then mix and match the two column internals.
We'll see how it goes....
The pedal box is from a Fairlane/Torino so it should be a bolt in.
I also got the Z-bar and pivot for a small block, so just need to make the hole in the firewall
(https://i.imgur.com/OtPqRKO.jpg)
I recently swapped out the 4spd to a 5spd in my 65 Mustang, tried it with the original manual clutch linkage and could barely drive the thing it was so damn stiff, so I did some research and ended up going with a hydraulic set up. I bought a kit from Daze Cars he makes a bracket that mounts to the side of the T5 for the slave cylinder with a rod that attaches to the factory fork for the T5 bellhousing then you mount a Willwood clutch M/S to the firewall with a adjustable rod to the clutch pedal, fired it up took it for a drive and it was like night and day it was like driving a modern car super smooth no slop or binding.
Thanks, good to know.
Daze clutch setup (https://www.dazecars.com/dazed/Test7T5.html)
I used a Malwood under dash master cylinder/TO bearing, pretty slick...
https://www.malwoodusa.com/
I wanted the lever gone so it would look like a manual column/car.
It really wasn't that bad of a job, although I wish I had taken more pics , it was one of those things that once i started, I completely spaced it out.
Either way, it got done, Column & pedal box are in , although I didn't drill the hole or install the Z-bar stuff.
(https://i.imgur.com/vvM46iZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Tcrlqfo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/I2fAi6R.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NiQeNGG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3iXg9s8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3rqtND1.jpg)
Progress is starting to slow down a little, but I did get a "gift" from UPS Saturday:
(https://i.imgur.com/CGCHaZJ.jpg)
Well, got the engine compartment all stripped, now I just need to get it to the body shop to get these dents filled and the bare metal epoxied.
Also, need to get a little tug on the engine crossmember, looks like some one hit something they shouldn't have. Minor damage and an easy fix:
(https://i.imgur.com/YkfH9Ue.jpg)
Hopefully he can take it this weekend.
link to Malwood upgrade:
https://www.malwoodusa.com/ford/1968-71-torino-fairlane-hydraulic-master-cylinder-clutch-pedal-kit-billet-reservoir/
I like that late "Christmas gift" from Santa...er ah..UPS! Sweet!
Thanks Gary, much appreciated.
Went over there yesterday afternoon and we got her bolted down to the frame machine to give the engine cradle/crossmember a little pull"
(https://i.imgur.com/Yks40QM.jpg)
Getting it ready for the pull:
(https://i.imgur.com/rksHxlF.jpg)
All clamped and ready to go:
(https://i.imgur.com/QaUgejQ.jpg)
One little tug and it was back to normal; it took longer to set it up, lol:
(https://i.imgur.com/uwADHsH.jpg)
That crossmember under the engine on the Fairlanes often gets damaged, from people jacking the front of the car with it, Mustangs and Cougars do not have a welded in crossmember like that, the entire front chassis, although similar looking with the shock towers, and very different between the 66-69 Fairlane/Torino/Comet and the 67-70 Mustang/Cougar, including the firewall, motor mount design, transmission crossmember, even how the shock towers, inner fender panels and firewall are connected together. The 67-70 Mustangs and Cougars use bolted in braces to tie the top of the shock tower to the firewall, while the 66-69 Fairlane platform has reinforcements from the top of the inner fenders (below the front fenders), that tie into the firewall, so no braces like the Mustang. And the earlier (62 thru 65 Fairlane and 62-63 Mercury Meteor), are totally different in design. 60 thru 65 Falcon, Comets, and 65-66 Mustangs are different again.
Concerning the clutch linkage systems, I currently have 4 stickshift Fords, my 59 has the factory style mechanical clutch linkage, both my trucks have hydraulic, 1 with a slave cylinder, the other has a hydraulic throwout bearing, and my 78 Fairmont drag car has the factory style FOX body clutch cable setup. Of them all, I prefer the operation and "feel" of the mechanical linkage, plus no chances of leaks, having to bleed the system, or damaging it due to heat from headers or exhaust. If it was my car, and since you already have all the factory mechanical clutch linkage, that is what I would be using. I know quite a few guys that had troubles with the aftermarket hydraulic setups, from getting the geometry correct, the bearing to pressure plate finger spacing right, routing the hydraulic line to avoid heat and contact with the various engine compartment obstructions. Not to mention leaks. A buddy used the McLeod hydraulic throw out bearing his his 429 powered Cobra replica, with a Toploader 4 speed, and he had it apart several times because the bearing assembly leaked the fluid out, and the clutch wouldn`t disengage. When possible, I like to use the system that the Ford engineers designed, and has a 50 + year history of working well. IF the pedal is stiff, there is usually a reason, like the upper clutch pedal pivot bushings binding or egg shaped from decades of use, or other sources of binding or lack of lubrication.
I always found it curious the interchangeability of so many Ford parts but how different the Mustang and Fairlane chassis.
You sure don't waste any time getting things done that's for sure!
Quote from: 57chero on 2025-01-08 11:35You sure don't waste any time getting things done that's for sure!
You sure you didn't start this 5 years ago??? (That's how long it would take me to get this far...) Great job!
Lynn........He does not sleep!
We can sleep when we are dead! :003:
I have been working on my SVO Mustang too. Until I get some more green in my jeans I can't do things I need/want to do on the Fairlane, so I busy myself with the SVO. Cold as it is.
Thanks guys; I definitely want to use the factory linkage if I can.
As far as getting stuff done, been that way my whole life, I guess it comes from being self employed and a good work ethic instilled in me from my dad.
Progress will slow down now, as it is out of my hands and I have been gone for almost a week with some friends, including the shop owner. We all went to Mecum in Kissimmee, great time, but it was a little cold. Either way, we all had a great time!
No new "toy" on your signature list? Couple of good deals from the small parts I've watched....
No, those are a little "Too Rich" for my blood, although I saw a beautifully restored 1968 Mustang Fastback w/a 428 in Highland Green that I wouldn't have minded owning. It was a paid trip to look at a '55 Corvette for a friend.
Well it got moved over to the other side of the shop. They got some rust converter on the roof and the decklid to get into some of the pits. After they will DA and start bodyworking it. Looks like they picked out some of the small dents too.
(https://i.imgur.com/2FHvARL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DbQ86lH.jpg)
Looks good. Moving along at warp speed 5!
Getting the panels and the body DA'd so they can epoxy coat everything:
(https://i.imgur.com/L99SFgU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OzDNbqz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5pW6pKg.jpg)
Making great progress! My hats off to bodyman, all those hours of sanding and blocking must be sooo tedious. The sheet metal looks very nice, so nice not having to be dealing with rusted out parts. Curious how your hood is, reason that I am asking, is that both my 69 Cobra fastbacks, had cracks/splits, in the center of the hood peak, near the front. Both mine were Ram Air R code cars, so maybe the large holes under the hood scoops in the hoods was a contributing factor with mine.Please keep us posted, seeing a big project going forward at such a good pace is inspiring.
Will do, and thanks!
As far as the hood, it's very good with the exception of some pitting from the sun baked surface rust.
Looking forward to getting the body done!
It's very nice to see a body shop getting on it right away. Too many stories of "body shop jail" Thanks for keeping us posted. Everything is looking first class.
Well, they have it all in epoxy, one step closer:
(https://i.imgur.com/g2JI9zm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LG9FuJB.jpg)
very very nice.
Thanks Rich!
Making great progress!
Thanks, they started fitting panels today....
(https://i.imgur.com/hdEQjFi.jpg)
gaps are looking good:
(https://i.imgur.com/1n8foQd.jpg)
Then hopefully start the bodywork. :snoopy2:
AHHHHH, can only dream of starting with one that clean.....nice work Joe, doin it right!
Thank you, I was extremely lucky!
Being that lucky...oughtta go buy a LOTTO ticket! LOL!!!
Looking sweet as she progresses buddy!
Thank you sir
Progress...
(https://i.imgur.com/z0RHmXk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iZPdUDA.jpg)
They also knocked out the dents and hammered and dollied it all to get it back to shape. I swear someone had a lead filled canoe on this roof!
Actually, the guy I bought it from said they had stored stuff on the roof after he left their shop.
Oh well, all minor $hit.
(https://i.imgur.com/s7W7u3j.jpg)
At the speed this is going, you'll be leaving rubber in May! :burnout:
:roadrunner:
Nice !
Starting with such a solid project car, and seeing the bodyshop's efforts.... this is going to be very rewarding.
Knowing what's under shiny paint, and how diligently it was down, must feel great !
Stopped by today and more progress.
The roof is all done and once painted, I can get the vinyl top done:
(https://i.imgur.com/pCJKNDP.jpg)
The pulled some of the dents with the pin puller and also welded up the holes from the previous work that was done with an older dent puller.
Now they are doing the bodywork:
(https://i.imgur.com/YSH2eXq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6VFtZwb.jpg)
It's really starting to come together.
I can only dream of my car looking like that.GREAT progress!
Straight lines....
(https://i.imgur.com/qwFWCU7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4tFTOka.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/blLxia8.jpg)
SWEET! One of the things I look at on cars at shows...are the body lines synchronized and straight! That is going to make the paint job look so excellent!
The gaps are maybe the best I've seen on anything. Especially considering the speed those guys are working at.
Hood scoop mounted and gaps getting better, just waiting to get it in Duratec; hopefully Monday.
(https://i.imgur.com/HMVRn6o.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JHtr93l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vS0ipXG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wPdEyGN.jpg)
Wanna bet the gaps are better now than when it was brand new? Lookin' good! :006:
Thanks.
I am extremely pleased with the work they are doing. The gap on the passenger side trunk/quarter panel was off (the area marked with green tape), so they Mig welded some brass on the trunk edge and blended it to straighten the gap; perfection!
(https://i.imgur.com/aR9SQep.jpg)
The finished gap:
(https://i.imgur.com/alT11VM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bP4OImt.jpg)
Would have liked to see that being done. 8)
Finally, ready for a coat of Epoxy, then a few coats of Duratec...
(https://i.imgur.com/6wJSyxo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vAxqcc1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hrmcK3k.jpg)
Lookin' pretty straight and sexy there buddy! :003:
Very impressive work. It's gotta be exciting for you!! Can't wait to see it in paint.
A quick coat of epoxy primer this morning to cover the bare metal...
(https://i.imgur.com/Y8aWzXB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bJlHlVC.jpg)
I went by tonight (about 20 minutes ago actually) to watch him put down the 3 heavy coats of Duratec.
The artist at work:
(https://i.imgur.com/y9A27z8.jpg)
Most of this will get sanded off when they block the car...
(https://i.imgur.com/UaD1oSZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nca0fhm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AIKFo7S.jpg)
What's Duratec must not be very toxic just wearing a cheap face mask?
I assume Duratec is a high-build primer?? I believe ALL automotive finishes are toxic, but I did notice he appears to have a very high transfer rate with his gun, as there is next to nothing on the floor and the air is very clear. Hell, when I spray, the air is so fogged I can barely see.
Duratec Surfacing Primer 707-002(gray) Provides outstanding filling and leveling properties when applied to substrates such as fiberglass, metal, wood, foam, concrete and pressboard.
Normally he would wear a respirator, but because he wasn't spraying it in the booth, he had the heat blowing out the spray booth slightly open door. That way it blew the heat (and the overspray & fumes) out the slightly open exterior door at the other end of the building.
Duratec is a composite product that goes on very similar to Gelcote, so there is minor overspray. It actually smells like gelcote and fiberglass.
I googled it, it says you can actually sand it with fine paper and buff it to a high luster shine, interesting.
Yes, I use to use it to make my molds instead of tooling gelcote.
I wish I would have known about it years ago when I did the removable bed floor in my ranchero looks like it would have filled all the pitting after it was sandblasted better than the primer I used.
Anxious for updates, Joe!
Me too Rich! Unfortunately, he likes to let it "cure" for a couple of weeks before they start blocking.
I'm the same with respect "curing"! Time and mean ol Mr. Sun are my cure modes!
Yeah, I was going to ask if they cured before final sanding. Gotta do it to be good. Thanks Joe. We've been missing your posts.
Thanks Rich, just been very busy lately.
After letting it cure for 15 days, they started blocking this afternoon.....
(https://i.imgur.com/uRh3r5T.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rucGPbQ.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/uChK2uK.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/KpcFxMi.jpg?1)
The lines look sharp enough to cut your finger. Careful!
Excellent!! Won't be long now.
Still blocking today...
(https://i.imgur.com/0mOeVmw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3uqlGs3.jpg)
Just realized that I never posted the pics of the hood cutout. I want to give a "Special Thanks" to Dave, a/k/a Hogfiddles over on the Torino forum for supplying me with the pattern.
This could have never taken place without his help.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZskX5O3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MM4x1g3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cNoXi7l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZiarSDu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5i9IqMf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GMb8V9i.jpg)
I was pleasantly surprised this morning when i went by to see if any progress was being made on my car.
This is what I saw yesterday:
(https://i.imgur.com/bCL86kB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Z8BDVVI.jpg)
This is what i saw this morning:
(https://i.imgur.com/Td50gbR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hucyW1X.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/C8DT40b.jpg)
it looks fantastic, Joe! Loving how clean they work, with masking the undercarriage, engine compartment aso.
Thanks DJ! They do nice, clean work. My car is in the old shop, you should see the newer shop next door; I'll try to take some pics tomorrow.
In today's world it is really heartwarming, to still see automotive businesses, that take pride in their work and quality. I fully understand that reasonable profit has to be made by a shop, but often it compromises work ethics. I just love when people have the dedication to really do an outstanding job.
The last photo...........another coat of primer, or is that a coat of sealer? or a final blocking? I'm looking at the darker color around the wheelwell that makes me think it was a final blocking. When's the yeller going on?
That's the final coat of primer, then block again , then sealer then paint.
DJ, here are some pics of the other shop, both from down on the floor and from upstairs:
(https://i.imgur.com/Ehzsqo2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/e5JgAG5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DWhaMdH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QgPcOV4.jpg)
I stopped by there this morning, (the Body shop is actually closed, but the towing part is open), looks like the got a guide coat on at the end of the day yesterday. Hopefully the start blocking Monday.
(https://i.imgur.com/0iGIq0d.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MvubUVe.jpg)
Man those side lines are STRAIGHT!!! Bet they didn't look that razor sharp out of the factory!
Many hours with a long board! The 62 Bird I built had the same line, full length of the car but not as well defined. I can't even begin to say how many hours were in each side of the car. It was owned by a little ol lady (really!) that must have rubbed up against every immovable object in the city.
Lol, she hit everything but the Lottery!
I hit the 200 hour mark Friday. bawl
In post #117 the lift the car is up on, anyone out there use one like that or a similar one? Could make working on the 57 nice and safe and could be stored out of the way...
Quote from: glenmichael on 2025-03-18 10:46In post #117 the lift the car is up on, anyone out there use one like that or a similar one? Could make working on the 57 nice and safe and could be stored out of the way...
I looked them up a couple of months ago. Tire shops use them for obvious reasons.
Prices on them seemed to start around $2k and go up from there FYI.
They are pricey, but if you have no overhead room they are a workable solution to provide access under the car. More than jack stands......
Here's a measurement from the right side of the hood to the center:
(https://i.imgur.com/9Rqgufl.jpg)
...and here's a measurement from the left side of the hood to the center:
(https://i.imgur.com/C13G9qU.jpg)
it doesn't seem noticeable though you look at the placement of the letters?
(https://i.imgur.com/7k9LBwk.jpg)
They've got the doors off and the jambs are all sanded & primed and are now ready for paint:
(https://i.imgur.com/KDsqJXR.jpg)
I'm assuming what you are showing us with the measurements is how far off the OEM hood peak/center rib is from the sides, not how far off their scoop mounting is.
That's correct.
Got the trunk done with bedliner, we tinted it to match the exterior color:
(https://i.imgur.com/JFGgxIQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nPBs3HO.jpg)
Thanks you! I'm working on my 57 and need to get it ready for paint and was trying to figure out cleaning up the trunk and replacing weather striping. I'll have to make a Harbor Freight run. When I pulled the WS it looks like caulking under, is that factory or did someone caulk after?
The tintable bed liner is great! Used it in the Ranchero bed and liked the results! Would have painted it but the friend who wanted the car said the bed of the 66 I sold him was too slippery, could I put bed liner in? Plan on using it when I start the 56 Crown Vic.
I sprayed the bottom with tinted bed liner. Certainly not OE but very durable. After only a few thousand miles, there is no wear inside the wheel wells. I would absolutely apply to any future projects. I would change the order of application. I sprayed the bedliner before the finish surfaces. If I did it again, I would spray the finish surfaces first and then spray the bedliner. Taping off the bedliner was a pain! Tape does not want to stick to bedliner!!
is that a light beige or metallic gold color Joe? Hard to tell in this pic.
1968 Medowlark Yellow
(https://i.imgur.com/2AfKK8J.jpg)
Beautiful color. That will work very well!
Any contrasting pin-striping to accent body lines?
Black GT rocker stripe and I am going to lay out a black center w/accent on the hood
Quote from: CobraJoe on 2025-03-29 07:29Black GT rocker stripe and I am going to lay out a black center w/accent on the hood
That'll look sharp! :006:
that is a really beautiful color choice, well done Joe !
Thanks, got the engine compartment done today. It looks glossy but will dry to a satin black:
(https://i.imgur.com/cc1QVYl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xuU5KRU.jpg)
A little better now that it's dry:
(https://i.imgur.com/yE4Tkl2.jpg)
Got it all masked up so they can get the jams painted and cleared:
(https://i.imgur.com/KkAaB4x.jpg)
A few coats of base and then several coats of clear. I am very pleased with the color:
(https://i.imgur.com/pCB9iOs.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pCB9iOs.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MGRRw2Z.jpg)
Also got the doors jammed so they can be re-installed with the fenders and get the gaps re-aligned. After that, we can paint the bottom black and layout the GT stripe:
(https://i.imgur.com/bxX4DrD.jpg)
perfect color!!
Looks like the same colour as Springtime Yellow from a year two earlier. Nice choice, I like it.
Got the black sprayed for the GT stripe, I'm not carrying all the way to the quarter panel as I personally don't care for the look as it "climbs" up the quarter, but hey, it's not a restoration! Besides, Ford never carried it to the front of the fender, so...
(https://i.imgur.com/HR3ygo3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gdHnqkS.jpg)
Joe
You keep yourself very busy, and you do good work.
I just love that car.
It was good talking to you today. JA
Looking great, and coming along nicely, Joe. Good to see that some body shops are willing, and capable of working on old cars, AND in a timely fashion. You hear so many horror stories about cars being held hostage in "body shop jail", for years, and never getting finished, poor bodywork, missing parts, and bills triple the original quote. Seems that you found a great shop! As for the rocker stripes, I agree, I always thought that the 68-69 "GT" stripes looked kinda odd, on the 1/4 panel, going uphill. My 66 Fairlane GTA was black with the white rocker stripes, and they were only on the front fenders, behind the wheel opening, along the door, and ended at the front of the rear wheel opening of the rear 1/4 panel, which I agree, looks better.
Thanks guys; Bob does great work and has done the body work on a couple of other restorations for me on '64 Corvettes.
He's mainly a collision shop and will only do one restoration job at time and he does it in the old shop so as not to take away from any of the other jobs that are going on.
These are other two jobs:
(https://i.imgur.com/jyGJQQb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/300qZpm.jpg)
...as well as welding up the old mirrors holes in my '39 and matching the paint flawlessly after I moved the mirrors from the door to the hinges:
(https://i.imgur.com/yrd0vSk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RMubkpY.jpg)
Spent some time in the shop yesterday morning laying out the "GT" stripe. We tried it on the lift, but the weight of the car threw the lines off ever so slightly, so we placed it on jack stands in the rear and on some old rims in the front so we weren't laying on the ground:
(https://i.imgur.com/KKMZjfM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pdwZDIc.jpg)
Once we had the stripes squared away, we pulled the fenders and rolled it into the booth:
(https://i.imgur.com/6Lw6MMb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gJhNsNz.jpg)
Then it was time for the masking party to start which pretty much took the whole afternoon:
(https://i.imgur.com/FPx77e6.jpg)
We got the fenders setup on separate stands, the trunk and hood will be done separately:
(https://i.imgur.com/PR9HmBJ.jpg)
Now it's time to mix up the sealer and get ready to start laying it down:
(https://i.imgur.com/lAGQP8j.jpg)
Once again, the master of his craft at work:
(https://i.imgur.com/WV7dSKA.jpg)
Once the sealer flashes, he can start laying down the basecoat. After the final coat flashes, we can remove the tape for the stipes and tack it, then mix up and start applying the clear; it's going to be a long night:
(https://i.imgur.com/g8jIsgW.jpg)
Okay, time for the first coat of color:
(https://i.imgur.com/BQ20dsK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tMh19N6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hb8YNgc.jpg)
Subsequent coats applied and flashed off, it's really starting to shape up:
(https://i.imgur.com/nvIoIoD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6mTt6fy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CwYV1Ap.jpg)
Okay, now it's time to pull the tape, cleanup any nubs and run a tack rag over everything and start applying the clear:
(https://i.imgur.com/xaxsXUI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mTDM4Gw.jpg)
I'm really liking it, can't wait for the shine!
Okay, time for the clear...
(https://i.imgur.com/OeF79pF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dLGetoF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Nv04lPK.jpg)
By now it's getting late but we can't stop yet. He manages to get the last few coats of clear on and I don't know what to say, other than it looks absolutely phenomenal!
(https://i.imgur.com/6XhVTYB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GrhyLDh.jpg)
Look how laser straight these lines are!!!!
(https://i.imgur.com/tOryWZL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3YBjBz5.jpg)
It's everything I imagined it would be and more!
(https://i.imgur.com/sRrXSwk.jpg)
I cannot express how pleased I am with the job they have done!!!
(https://i.imgur.com/0DHyglk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JPGZwBd.jpg)
Wow. Words can't describe. I'm just glad it's not me paying for all their talent! You said something a few weeks ago about them hitting the 200 hour mark.....gotta be 300 by now. Very impressive. I can see why you chose them.
At the speed you're moving...you'll be driving it by June...July at the latest! :003: :burnout:
He put the wheels back on it and pulled it out of the booth yesterday and un-masked it.
(https://i.imgur.com/j0MXpAR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CLxetu2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ChZb1Ik.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9qYx3uV.jpg)
Then he sealed the quarter panel extensions, cowl and valence :
(https://i.imgur.com/zvNjiUl.jpg)
Then some color....
(https://i.imgur.com/iFSDNrv.jpg)
...and finally some clear:
(https://i.imgur.com/R5STaEa.jpg)
That just looks fantastic! Wonderful job.
WOW, just WOW! There are not enough adjectives to describe!
I am late to the party, but this sure looks phenomenal, Joe !
Again, I just love the clean work you all are doing, the crisp GT lines, the careful masking for each step. this sure is a real high end repaint !
it is a pleasure to watch, thx for posting !
Thanks guys! The whole job was pretty reasonable; me giving him a fresh, blank canvas sure helped in the money department!!
Cleaned up the old tailight lens and bezels and got them installed in the quarter panel extensions. I was also able to buy a pair of NOS side reflectors, so I got them installed too. Just need to wait on the weatherstripping to come in and then I can get these back on the car.
(https://i.imgur.com/TpdPQ3L.jpg)
Is it getting wet sanded and buffed or leaving it as is, not that it needs it.
Leaving as is for now. Once I install the vinyl top, install the interior, etc... and install the drive train it will get a cut-N-buff.
Not much of an update, as he is still revamping things in his shop, but we did manage to get the new windshield delivered and installed. I Had a really hard time finding a 1968 Formal Roof windshield.
Anyways....
All cleaned up:
(https://i.imgur.com/7BxkJwN.jpg)
Got the edges all primed black and Butyl installed:
(https://i.imgur.com/tfaevgr.jpg)
Also installed a New "Border" around the VIN tag:
(https://i.imgur.com/uCFpnC3.jpg)
Got it set into place:
(https://i.imgur.com/dB1iOVR.jpg)
...and the finished product:
(https://i.imgur.com/RT2DgvD.jpg)
Looking more and more like a car every time you post an update! :003:
I hand stapled all the fender rubbers on the splash shields and the core support got them installed on the car. We should be getting the fenders back next week on so we can align the hood and cowl for the stripes:
(https://i.imgur.com/bCoIKPi.png?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/Cc3I91z.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/EYwNacT.jpg?1)
I've often wondered, what sort of gun is used to staple those rubbers and such to the metal supports. An air gun of so sort?
They used, and still do today, metal stitchers:
(https://i.imgur.com/WfnruBK.jpg)
"Metal stitching is a lesser known but highly beneficial approach to material assembly. Metal stitching is the same process as paper stitching (also known as stapling) but it uses equipment and wire sufficiently strong to penetrate metal and other materials. The difference between stitching and stapling is that stitching uses wire from a coil and stapling uses preformed staples. The net result of either process is a staple.
Wire stitchers feed accurately measured lengths of wire directly from a coil into the stitching head mechanism which forms the wire lengths into the shape of a staple. The stitcher drives the stitches through the material at great speed. Legs of the stitches penetrate the material and are clinched as the stitch crowns are forced securely against the top surface of the assembly. There is no requirement to prepare the material in any way or create perforations. Speeds of up to five staples per second are possible and one spool of wire can produce hundreds of thousands of staples without the need to reload. The wire feeding mechanism is able to pull wire of varying lengths so that any length of staple can be generated.
In addition to their speed, wire stitchers provide a huge flexibility advantage. Given that materials can come in many odd or unwieldy shapes and sizes, the machines in traditional joining techniques often won't work because it's difficult to fit the materials into the machines. When that happens, manufacturers are faced with less than ideal options: they can come up with entirely new processes or put cost and effort into customizing their existing machines. Stitching offers an advantage because users can quickly customize and fixture the work holding area. One example of customization is a West Coast industrial garage door manufacturer that needed to place a staple to affix privacy slats inside a chain link fence. This manufacturer had a modified stapling system installed to allow "round" staples to be made so the staples could encapsulate the mesh of the fence and still secure the plastic slate. This method dramatically reduced the installation time of the slats allowing the manufacturer to produce fence rolls at a much greater rate. Stitching can greatly reduce the labor and material cost for many fastening and joining applications by significantly reducing material and substrate prep time. Metal stitchers can join a wide range of materials including aluminum, copper, brass, plastics, cold rolled steel, hot rolled steel, fabrics, leather, rubber, galvanized steel, carpet, wood and many more materials. No other method of material joining can as quickly and easily fasten so many materials in such a flexible and efficient manner."
Thanx. Kind of takes the ability of the home based car builder out of the loop for doing that procedure doesn't it?
I chased stitch (staple) machines for several years. I only found one for sale. It was in an online auction. I was bidding on it and all the sudden it disappeared. Internet...go figure!
I first take a cut off wheel and cut the original staple in two pieces and then remove it with pliers. I then use a 1/16" drill to enlarge the original holes. Next I fit the rubber to the metal piece and trim to match the original contour, once that's done, I clamp the rubber to the metal and drill the rubber from the metal side using the original holes. Then I push the staple through both pieces, place it on an anvil or metal block and tap the two legs over with a hammer.
You did it right Joe. Making new holes is just not right. I think I remember using welding rod instead of the very stiff staples.
Got the trunk painted and cleared today, another baby step, but still a step closer:
(https://i.imgur.com/1Uoqanp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tVe9Q4w.jpg)
Quote from: CobraJoe on 2025-05-02 08:30I first take a cut off wheel and cut the original staple in two pieces and then remove it with pliers. I then use a 1/16" drill to enlarge the original holes. Next I fit the rubber to the metal piece and trim to match the original contour, once that's done, I clamp the rubber to the metal and drill the rubber from the metal side using the original holes. Then I push the staple through both pieces, place it on an anvil or metal block and tap the two legs over with a hammer.
Thanks for the idea. Appreciate it.
Got a chance to break the tires off of the steel wheels and mount them on the new rims:
(https://i.imgur.com/0OMwi8h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/O6KDmO6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qffiF9i.jpg)
Everything ready to go; hopefully Monday the trunk & fenders will get hung so we can then get the hood mounted and aligned so we can layout the stripes.
(https://i.imgur.com/xDhg3rh.jpg)
Wheels are gonna make that car! Good choice. :006:
I got my original factory back window cleaned up, the gasket installed and a rope to pull it in yesterday, and brought it over to the body shop today.
(https://i.imgur.com/qDKHvXG.jpg)
When I got there, they were mounting the rear deck lid:
(https://i.imgur.com/9SBfxwv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/obgqaJ7.jpg)
After we got the new clips installed, we did the glass:
(https://i.imgur.com/VJqkaCY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QaDtYYz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5j7zEZs.jpg)
More baby steps; fenders are on:
(https://i.imgur.com/3bJrPUC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wWUJkS2.jpg)
A couple more steps.....
Hood got the yellow base and a coat of clear on it to protect it today. Hopefully on the car tomorrow so we can layout the stripes.
(https://i.imgur.com/eLwVwk6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AWk8eGO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fFIdkCb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Xh9yzJp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sSx5mJX.jpg)
Getting close. How much time do you figure until you're driving that beauty? Hurry! I'm getting anxious to see it at ride height, LOL.
$$$$$$ is going to be the problem Rich.... :'(
That's a problem we all understand.
Stripes laid out and ready for paint..
(https://i.imgur.com/A64kRGy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yevPqwq.jpg)
Black laid down and tacked, ready for some clear:
(https://i.imgur.com/2lf1ViB.jpg)
All cleared, just needs a light buff:
(https://i.imgur.com/W5UTg2u.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TLWISpt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/woXrjL0.jpg)
She's officially back home:
(https://i.imgur.com/59gBEIl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sZUooKL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Pkv33Q7.jpg)
Your shop looks a lot larger from the outside! lol That does look nice...almost too nice to drive.
purty!!!
Looks very nice! :006:
That's because it's not in the shop yet Terry, it's in one of the garage stalls. I will make room in the shop over the next couple of weeks.
(https://i.imgur.com/A1zpsbA.jpg)
Very cool shop photo! The car is a stunner, now the real FUN begins...
That looks pretty slick, I'D be tempted to leave the vinyl top off.
I couldn't if I wanted too; I asked him to go light on the paint and the clear on the top I wouldn't have a big build up on the drip rails.
I couldn't help myself, after I picked up the cowl and hood scoop from the bodyshop, I had to place them on the car (along with the letters, lol):
(https://i.imgur.com/riL0a3X.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oQGNaVK.jpg)
Looking freaking outstanding there sir!
Thank You FBB!
Got some stuff moved around, hope to start on it soon!
(https://i.imgur.com/B9tvxKJ.jpg)
Did you modify the rear suspension? The group looks great..AND CLEAN!!! You're lucky you don't live in dusty Texas
All I did was install new springs, bushings, etc.; the original's were really bad. I'm hoping they settle in a little with the weight of the bumper, gas tank, etc...
Tried my hand at installing a vinyl top....
Found the center and then taped one side down so it wouldn't move:
(https://i.imgur.com/pafc727.jpg)
Taped off the areas I didn't want to get glued:
(https://i.imgur.com/Za0WFN8.jpg)
Then sprayed 12" across with glue on both the top and the roof and after it tacked, I rolled it out. Then I would smooth out the section and repeat until all the way down the side:
(https://i.imgur.com/xqgKVyC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/K57XtFr.jpg)
Then repeat on the opposite side:
(https://i.imgur.com/AU7TeYL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/re1FxCp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LVcDtI7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MwvF2US.jpg)
Hope to finish the rest of it tomorrow.
Wow.impressive skills as usual Joe! I really like the Landau roofs.You hardly ever see them at car shows though. I hope that aerosol glue holds for you, but you don't have to deal with Texas sun, so you should be ok.
Didn't finish the top today, my buddies came by, so the motor got dropped in. The long tube headers were a pain in the ass, but got them in. I'll have to loose the tie rod assist power steering, but I would rather have the long tubes:
(https://i.imgur.com/Ofk8vEn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/frOJk4X.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xoLjDEV.jpg)
very nice. beating a dead horse, But you'd be "king of Likes"...........if we had a like button.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2025-05-19 09:24very nice. beating a dead horse, But you'd be "king of Likes"...........if we had a like button.
We used to have something sort of like it until the last "upgrade" to the system.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2025-05-19 09:24very nice. beating a dead horse, But you'd be "king of Likes"...........if we had a like button.
Thanks Rich, very much appreciated! :thumbsup:
Thanks, I still haven't finished the front suspension yet, it's actually the only part of the car I haven't touched yet. Still need to do the front struts, coil overs and a bigger sway bar hopefully and then I can paint it.
Beautiful !
Love the painted valve covers and sticker!
What glue did you use for the vinyl top and how did you spray it on? cans or spray gun? which brand and did you apply to both sides (car roof and inside the vinyl) or just one side ?
It really came out great and fits the car extremely well !
Thanks DJ!
I used 3M Vinyl Glue in a spray can. I sprayed both until they got tacky and then pulled (rolled) it onto the top.
(https://i.imgur.com/7WQQkrP.jpg)
Thank you for the info Joe. Industrial grade makes sense. totally. with this application.
I also have been doing some upholstery work lately and used some locally available industrial glue, with a simple air spray gun. It worked very well and the industrial stuff is so much better to work with.
Quote from: CobraJoe on 2025-05-13 08:35Thank You FBB!
Got some stuff moved around, hope to start on it soon!
(https://i.imgur.com/B9tvxKJ.jpg)
Your collection is amazing, wish I had the talent to do body work like that! :occasion14:
Edd...dunno if you have heard of this guy or not, but he is a wealth of knowledge. He breaks down how to make panels with simple tools, how to repair and replace rusty spots or panels, welding tips...you name it.
Warning...watching him can be addictive. Go for it though.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6JPmJ_aicru8XPWr3EvJnw/videos
Enjoy!
Quote from: mustang6984 on 2025-05-20 23:48Edd...dunno if you have heard of this guy or not, but he is a wealth of knowledge. He breaks down how to make panels with simple tools, how to repair and replace rusty spots or panels, welding tips...you name it.
Warning...watching him can be addictive. Go for it though.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6JPmJ_aicru8XPWr3EvJnw/videos
Enjoy!
Thanks I have a rust hole on a quarter panel and watched one on panel replacement.
His videos can be addictive! :006:
Finally got the top finished up today, just waiting on some Landau Top Molding clips so I can fasten the molding near the trunk. Pretty happy with the outcome:
(https://i.imgur.com/y7zJWWc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/i841GGX.jpg)
Totally PRO
SWEET!!! :003:
Not A huge fan of vinyl tops but that one really seems to make the car feel nicer which I didn't think was possible. Beautiful job.
Thanks guys!
Just a beautiful color combination. That black vinyl top and lower accent stripe just makes the body color pop. Great job !!!!!!!
That's a really nice installation! Nicely done.
LOVE IT! The top fits perfectly style wise. I too think it is fitting to have it on the car!
Dissembled the grill today to straighten, polish and paint:
(https://i.imgur.com/7veZ56e.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OJ96SmK.jpg)
Got the headlight buckets out and in the bead blaster, they were nice and solid and able to read the part numbers :
(https://i.imgur.com/dnbFaPy.jpg)
After they were bead blasted, they were E Coated:
(https://i.imgur.com/ttMBKhT.jpg)
Polished up the aluminum too:
(https://i.imgur.com/DmmMKiX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Vh816LP.jpg)
Once it was disassembled, I straightened it as much as I could:
(https://i.imgur.com/4kIdJS0.jpg)
I polished it on the buffer, taped it off, and painted with Trim Black:
(https://i.imgur.com/JNCFejX.jpg)
I think it came out okay for a 57 year old grill:
(https://i.imgur.com/d53mb5F.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EYP1pdN.jpg)
I also polished up and painted the GT Emblem:
(https://i.imgur.com/an3GSVH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KfT8c1t.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7xN04hH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EYg7JH2.jpg)
I'd say that was much, Much, MUCH better than mowing the lawn! :003:
Well done! :006:
I ended up stripping the middle section and changing it up. I figured it's not really a restoration, more of a custom/restomod:
(https://i.imgur.com/2ZpltBC.jpg)
It may not be to everyone's taste, especially if you're a purist, but I like it better:
(https://i.imgur.com/b5IesXf.jpg)
I had to change from the tie rod assist power steering to manual steering because of the long tube headers so I ordered and installed a manual center link today, not realizing that the pitman arm was different also. So while I waited for that to come in I installed the front coil overs:
(https://i.imgur.com/Vr05Ta2.jpg)
A lot cleaner look compared to the stock setup and I was able to lower my ride height:
(https://i.imgur.com/zZAPYrI.jpg)
I'll lower the rear when I install my 9", it definitely needs it:
(https://i.imgur.com/juCndey.jpg)
...and between the power steering and shocks/springs, I shaved a bunch of weight.
(https://i.imgur.com/AvItK6Q.jpg)
I see the supervisors were in attendance as well.
Looks good...and I agree...who cares? Your car...do what you like! :003:
Too late know but some headers will clear PS with the installation of a spacer between the frame and steering cylinder bracket. Another PS bit of trivia...all the Fords that I have converted manual to power (or via versa) that the pitman arm, drag link and idler arm are specific to power or manual.
I like the idea with the coilovers, how much adjustment do you have Id like to put some on the front of my 65 Mustang, years ago I messed up the original coils to get it to sit a little lower now that I'm updating to disc brakes Id like to do it all at the same time.
They claim up to 3", I know I was able to bring the car down from stock ride height 2"
Yeah Gary, I realize that the manual one is usually longer for more leverage, but I wasn't concerned about it right now, figuring if it was really bad, I could change it down the road. What I failed to remember in my old age is that the center link didn't have a ball joint/tie rod end type joint on it and that it would be on the pitman arm instead. :sign12:
Mocked up the T5 to see how much I would need to cut out of my tunnel:
(https://i.imgur.com/GwNjRln.jpg)
It was tight against the floor even without the Transmount Installed:
(https://i.imgur.com/KyKZ0lO.jpg)
II traced around the shifter housing and drilled a hole in each corner, then went inside and connected the dots and cut out the hole, remounted the transmission to check for clearance with the trans. mount installed. Then I placed the shifter tunnel cover inside over the floor and traced it out, then went back about one inch from the line and cut the rest of the floor out.
I know the shifter cover is supposed to rivet to the floor inside the car, but I didn't want a rough opening under the car so I clamped it in place under the car and scribed a line around it to remove the coating.
(https://i.imgur.com/6WaXtZH.jpg)
I then traced out the holes and ground it down to bare metal so I could plug weld the cover from the underside:
(https://i.imgur.com/DVK8Ig9.jpg)
Then ground down the welds...
(https://i.imgur.com/EIRpjAY.jpg)
...and coated it to match the undersides; to me, it looks like it's supposed to be there:
(https://i.imgur.com/Iwd4po9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6Q3iEXj.jpg)
All I need to do is seam seal the inside and dynamat around the shifter cover:
(https://i.imgur.com/6GcZef4.jpg)
Looks good! Kind gives the appearance you MIGHT know what you are doing!
The guy who originally cut the hole in my brown Courier could have benefited from such smarts! I could have crawled inside the car through that hole!
Well done Joe!
Haven't really touched the car much; I lost my father-in-law 10 days ago, a really good guy who was a retired heavy equipment master mechanic. he will be missed.
I have been waiting for for my clutch setup and some hardware, so I jumped onto finishing up cleaning the front end, installing the new adjustable strut rods and bigger sway bar.
Cleaned and coated:
(https://i.imgur.com/VMQiDxz.jpg)
Adjustable strut bars installed:
(https://i.imgur.com/fPjMLl1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/x7E69j7.jpg)
...and swaybar (the motor is being held up by a strap on the sway bar until trans goes in):
(https://i.imgur.com/Dh385Vt.jpg)
All of it is looking great! The usual very nice job to you!!
I picked up a 9" for a Torino in PA last year because I figured the 8" wouldn't hold up:
(https://i.imgur.com/2Ctb313.jpg)
I Managed to get the 9" over to my buddies this weekend so it could get "cleaned up"
(https://i.imgur.com/kk06GZg.jpg)
I filled all the pits and primed it with a sandable primer:
(https://i.imgur.com/7wuw0Vk.jpg)
...and painted it:
(https://i.imgur.com/9Co2s1g.jpg)
Got the housing back in the car with some lowering blocks:
(https://i.imgur.com/Xpy1F5J.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tgWmdlj.jpg)
I like the stance a little better, still might bring the front up another 1/2"
(https://i.imgur.com/lc06DM6.jpg)
Looking great, but if you plan on any "spirited" driving, you may want to consider eliminating those rubber "ISO Clamp" insulators that surround the leaf spring bundles, where the mounting pads of the rearend housing mount. They are supposedly there to soften the ride, and eliminate some NVH, but are also quite handy for enabling wheel hop, and allow the rearend housing to twist and flex. They were not used on more performance oriented Fords, and can easily be eliminated, although you would need to weld a washer, or something similar, into the housings mounting perch, to fit properly around the leaf springs center bolt. On housings with the ISO Clamps, the center hole is much larger, as the rubber insulator has round rubber sleeves that fit inside the enlarged holes, further contributing to unwanted movement of the housing on the leaf springs.
Thanks, I was seriously thinking about eliminating them, but wasn't quite sure on how to make up the diameter difference on the hole size.
I will probably end up turning a piece of round stock to fill the hole on the axle housing and then center boring it to accept the leaf spring pin.
Unfortunately, I would then have to make one for the spring clamp/shock mount too.
It is not necessary to bush the shock mount plate. The OE plate hole is oversized. You'll likely revisit the mounting when you upgrade to a traction device.
Well, I took your advice and went ahead and redid the rear spring mounts.
First I turned down a piece of round stock to fit the OD of the spring perch and bored a 1/2" center hole in it to accept the spring/block pin:
(https://i.imgur.com/IphA13V.jpg)
I measured the depth of the hole with the cover installed and parted it
(https://i.imgur.com/fdkoHFX.jpg)
I then bored out the spring cover to accept the new bushing
(https://i.imgur.com/Shf94a7.jpg)
and welded it in:
(https://i.imgur.com/I9BVR2L.jpg)
For the shock mount plate I opened up the center hole on a large nut to accept the spring pin/nut and welded that it in also:
(https://i.imgur.com/yqWhYEz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ES3k66c.jpg)
Got it all back together and I think it should work. I wasn't sure if I should eliminate the top cover, but I feel it holds the lowering block more securely than it would without it.
(https://i.imgur.com/peS6d1n.jpg)
I think it should keep the axle clamped tightly in place, but I'll monitor once I get it on the road.
As far as a traction device Gary, I'll probably go with Cal-Trac bars.
Did you also make a bushing for the leaf spring perches on the axle housing itself? I seem to recall the ISO Clamp cars also had oversized holes, to accommodate the rubber pieces, so those holes should also be reduced. On my 351C 4 barrel, and 428 Cobra Jet Mustangs, which didn`t use ISO Clamps, the housing spring perches sit directly on the top of the leaf spring, without that spring cover "clamshell", so it is kinda redundant without the rubber, but certainly can`t see any downside to you retaining them, with the bushings added. I am assuming that the aluminum spacer has the centering hole the same size as the center bolt itself? With any new rear U Bolts, it is always a good idea to retorque them after some driving time, to ensure they stay snug, and check them periodically. On my Ford trucks, retorquing the U bolts is recommended during certain service intervals, although after the first retorque, they never moved any. On my 59, I am using a set of Lakewood "slapper style" traction bars, no the cheaper ones that just clamp onto the springs, but have a mounting plate that the U bolts go thru, which eliminates the need to keep the factory spring plate/lower shock mounts, as new mounts are part of the traction bar plate. My traction bars also utilize the optional "J Bolts, that surround the axle tubes, and have brackets that support the front section of the traction bar, as a brace, rather than just rely on the bar welded to the mounting plate. I also boxed the leaf spring perches to the axle tubes, to prevent the perches from bending or buckling under hard launches, especially with a manual transmission on drag slicks at the drag strip, but not really needed if you don`t plan on drag racing with slicks.
Yes, I forgot to take a picture, but the spacer that I welded into the "clamshell cover was about 7/8" long and extended down into the axle housing spring perch: and yes, the aluminum spacer has a 1/2" female hole on on side and a 1/2" male pin on the other side.
As far as the clam shell goes, I will keep an eye on it because if the axle loosens up, I may not be able to tighten it if the clamshell contacts the shock mount plate. If so, then I would have to remove it and cut out the bushing (or make a new one) and weld it into the spring perch.
Thanks for all the help, much appreciated.
Also managed to get the clutch assembly installed this week, I went with the McLeod Super Street Pro Organic/Ceramic...
(https://i.imgur.com/rSvoGMt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0iZsRUB.jpg)
Cleaned up and painted the T5:
(https://i.imgur.com/I0Iaktb.jpg)
....and finally got it installed for the last time hopefully
(https://i.imgur.com/Pd9fU6v.jpg)
...as well as the Hurst Short throw billet Shifter
(https://i.imgur.com/pe266Ib.jpg)
I got a good deal locally on some Cal-Tracs, so I go them installed yesterday:
(https://i.imgur.com/Fbpti9D.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cYxWCWI.jpg)
...still waiting on my rear shocks???
I see your using the standoff block on the t5 bellhousing so you can use the stock fork and clutch linkage, I tried that on my 65 mustang and could hardly push the clutch in, it puts a lot of strain on the fork trying to pivot on the block and put enough force to do its job that's why I went with a hydraulic set up using a slave cylinder to push the oem t5 fork on the oem pivot ball inside the bellhousing how it was intended to work much smoother with a lot less force it was like a night and day difference, I had to change the clutch and pressure plate to work with the hydraulic set up which has a different throw distance when the throw out bearing pushes the fingers of the pressure plate, it was well worth the time and effort for me but you might be fine with your setup.
A revised picture of the slave cylinder, moved it out with spacers and moved the threaded push rod to the outer hole in the t5 fork for even less effort pushing the clutch in, also added a heat shield for header heat.
Here is a good video explaining options from DazeCars, I used his bracket for the T5 and pieced the rest together.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vw5ccEZV9To
Looks like a really nice setup.
The reason I went with the spacer block setup is because I didn't want to modify my firewall. Right now, the pedal seems okay; if it doesn't work out, I can always go this route.
Thanks for posting.
I finally got around to installing my rear sway bar today, they claimed it's supposed to install under the rear axle in the instructions, but there is now way in hell that it could; ended up mounting it on top of the axle:
(https://i.imgur.com/vt6GZGb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OjqyCPi.jpg)
I went in the house for a late lunch and found that my Moser axles had been delivered; I ordered them Friday afternoon and I received them today, pretty quick service for a "not off the shelf item"
(https://i.imgur.com/Hz9bnTS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/penM4wM.jpg)
With everything back together, I'm pretty happy with the stance now...
(https://i.imgur.com/mXVi13H.jpg)
Your rear sway bar looks just like the ADDCO Crown Vic PI rear sway bar I got for my wagon. Your installation (and my instructions) looks similar to some of the Rangers or Broncos. Since the shocks on the wagon are mounted behind the axle, it had to be mounted on the front side.
Gary, it is an ADDCO, I believe it's a 965. I called ADDCO and told them it wouldn.t work on the bottom, only would fit if I mounted it on top of the axle, and they said go ahead, shouldn't matter.
I asked if anyone else had that problem and they said yes, lol. :rtfm:
Front bumper finally installed today, starting to look like a car:
(https://i.imgur.com/hEfjzAG.jpg)
Just perfect! Did you get the original one rechromed..or??
Auto Metal Direct, (AMD) very reasonable and good quality. A heck of a lot cheaper than rechroming, I got a price of $500+
I picked up my new driveshaft today. I had it built locally with 3-1/2" TUBING, 1330 yokes on both ends w/Spicer U joints (w/ the larger 1.125" caps) and had it balanced also:
(https://i.imgur.com/thxQdnK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tQf9MVt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kiJqkLZ.jpg)
The original was 3" tubing and had 1310 U-joints:
(https://i.imgur.com/nWyikjC.jpg)
It also had the factory rubber insulator:
(https://i.imgur.com/rkNFN2G.jpg)
Back to the bodyshop for a cut-n-buff
(https://i.imgur.com/Y20zPlK.png)
Stopped in today and glad to see that they are working on it
(https://i.imgur.com/M3p7F6b.jpg)
this is a very beautiful build, Joe! thx for sharing !
Thanks DJ!
QUICK UPDATE: The car is still in the body shop as they found a couple of pinholes in the quarter panel bodywork as well as a few tiny pinholes/air bubbles in the fiberglass hood scoop, so they redid them.
They repainted the quarter Saturday morning and it looks great; you'd never know it was redone. They have the scoop ready to shoot Monday, so after they buff the quarter and install the scoop, I hope to have it back Tuesday. 🤞
We did mange to get the shock tower brace welded in while we were there, it had been on backorder for 6 months, but it came out fine even though the car was already painted:
(https://i.imgur.com/4O09xMR.jpg)
Nicely finished !
It really does speak for the shop and their work ethics, if they are willing to admit and correct their mistakes. very rare these days !
Thanks DJ. They are really good about standing behind their work; to be honest with you, I was fine with the way it was, but they wouldn't here it.
They were able to spot weld the brace in place without disturbing the paint, which was really nice:
(https://i.imgur.com/4yDSc9w.jpg)
Thanks for the added "weld" information....couldn't figure out what you were talking about on that first pic.
I've been chasing a high speed vibration in my 65 Mustang fastback ever since I put in a Tremec T5, I'm on my second attempt to set the pinion angle in correlation with the slope of the transmission I'm curious if you Know how many degrees the motor/trans is sloped down and your pinion angle.
@57chero I'll take some measurements and let you know.
I got the car back last night, so I got the Trunk mat, jack, lug wrench, spare etc... installed.
When I found a setup, it was pretty crusty:
(https://i.imgur.com/7r7Ze79.jpg)
I sand blasted and then bead blasted everything and got it painted up:
(https://i.imgur.com/ozW36o3.jpg)
I mounted a bias-ply wide oval to try and keep it somewhat period correct:
(https://i.imgur.com/7DzuAxD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZVbfF0o.jpg)
Got the rear bumper mounted this morning finally:
(https://i.imgur.com/ZDBVwWf.jpg)
My buddy came buy and helped me start building the exhaust system. I used a system for a 66-67 Fairlane without a rear sway bar and cut it up and pieced it back together to make it work. He's extremely talented with pipe as he builds boat towers and railings for a living. This is what we got done after 5 hours, (the TIG welding on the stainless took longer than anything else, but I didn't want to MIG it) I think it's going to work out pretty good:
(https://i.imgur.com/iNdRX9F.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oLwEYPE.jpg)
We tacked the muffler in place to get an idea as to how we are going to have to cut up the tailpipes. I think we are still going to need to shorten it up a little on the "S" pipe to the muffler. Hopefully next week he can help me again, he makes it look sooo easy,
(https://i.imgur.com/DtTFB19.jpg)
So I spent a good part of last night and all of today, sanding and buffing:
(https://i.imgur.com/QOQvgGw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UqTcvGB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/b5eEJRT.jpg)
It's not perfect, but it's an exhaust system on a street car....
Then I tacked it back together and got it in place so we can start on the tail pipes
(https://i.imgur.com/3GoP4SB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/f0xqrad.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gqUzFQn.jpg)
I don't post much on this thread, I have run out of superlatives and jealousy gets in my way. I LOVE THIS CAR... Now if it was just an FE! (lol)
Thank you Lynn, I really wanted to build a Big Block FE Car , but I also wanted a car that we could drive anywhere without worrying about overheating while sitting in traffic, etc...
Trust me, I almost purchased a 428 Torino, just for the drivetrain, I looked at the car twice, but couldn't bring myself to do it
I'm with Lynn, hard to keep coming up with non-redundant praise.
Been trying to enjoy the nice weather lately, so haven't spent much time in the garage. Even though, I managed to get a little more work done this week.
I cut up the stock muffler hanger so that I could utilize the existing holes on the body
(https://i.imgur.com/GPM2b5m.jpg)
I sand blasted and painted it and attached the universal hanger to it
(https://i.imgur.com/WB7YEiW.jpg)
I think it will work out okay, just need to wait on one more from my buddy in PA as my car was a single exhaust originally, not duals.
(https://i.imgur.com/ONwHJm4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/himyhUs.jpg)
My buddy came but yesterday to help cutup and fit the rest of the exhaust system.
The tailpipes were very time consuming as we had to drop the exhaust every time we modified them. At one point, we actually had to pull the shocks, disconnect the swaybar and raise the car to lower the suspension enough to get the tail pipes over the leaf spring.
We ended up cutting them in 3 pieces, adding a 1-1/2" piece in the middle of the bend, rotating it enough to fit by the sway bar and then tack the turnouts back on. Every change involved putting the car back together to make sure we had the proper clearance. Once it was determined to be okay, everything had to come back apart and get finished welded, then reassembled.
In the end, it turned out pretty good, especially for a system that was designed to fit this year/model Fairlane Torino.
(https://i.imgur.com/0zUI8jq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pxP6cyt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5LpUURn.jpg)
After that, it was time to find a spot for the cutouts that wouldn't hang down and be visible.
Once we got it all marked out, we dropped the exhaust again (the tailpipes can stay in now, they will be the only pipe clamped, that way, the exhaust can still be dropped to do any future clutch/transmission work) and made out the holes for the cutouts:
(https://i.imgur.com/xcwX03Q.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HGfTMgp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EAVnUjk.jpg)
Hopefully, I can get it all finished welded this week and back installed. I still need to wait for the other exhaust hanger from PA; that won't be here until Tuesday.
Once that's done, than I can move on to tailpipe hangers, I'd like to make something using the existing holes.
I'd like to utilize the stock hangers, but the one I took off is dry rotted and new ones from Waldon's are 10-12 weeks out.
(https://i.imgur.com/OxbHkD3.jpg)
Very nice job. Short of crazy headers, that's gotta be the most involved under-car exhaust I've seen. The in and out against reminded me of when I made my hard-arm wiper system for my '57. Every small change meant the whole set-up was coming back out again.
Yeah, it's crazy, but as you found out, it's the only way to make it look/work right.
Looks very nice Joe. Gonna be a true head-turner! You'll have a hard time leaving a gas station...people will be constantly wanting to chat! :006:
Thanks, it may not be a '57 Fairlane, but at least it's still a Fairlane!
I'll be proud to go for a ride in it next time I am out. Along with a ride in the sweet little red ride! :003:
Managed to get my buddy to finish welding up the exhaust last night.
His TIG welding skills are far superior to mine and was worth the wait for him to come by and finish it up, I can't thank him enough.
(https://i.imgur.com/JdE864Y.jpg)
Well the other hanger bracket came in from PA today. After I drilled out the rivets and got it apart, I sand blasted it and then put it in the press to take the bend out of it as it sits too high with the factory bend. After that I drilled out the bracket and bolted the Stainless/rubber hanger to it and painted it.
(https://i.imgur.com/YO8rR5x.jpg)
Then it was just a matter of bolting it in place like the driver side
(https://i.imgur.com/vSW5xwP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/H7dEocB.jpg)
Now that both mufflers are fastened, I can secure the tailpipes; same procedure on the factory tailpipe bracket, drill out the rivets, remove the old rubber. After that I was able to get the SS hanger bent and then scribed it to the top of the OG bracket. I was able to utilize the hole from the rivet to secure the bracket and I added a tack at the end just in case it wanted to turn:
(https://i.imgur.com/0H9rTaC.jpg)
Instead of having an ugly 2 1/2" clamp visible from the back of the car, I tacked the hanger to the pipe. Seems like it will work out fine.
(https://i.imgur.com/piYRrHO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XXioLMq.jpg)
My buddy in PA has a dual exhaust bracket (passenger side) and is sending it up to me. I should be able to mirror image the driver side.
I think it hides pretty well:
(https://i.imgur.com/5LpUURn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nyBoPNH.jpg)
This is a work of art!
Thanks Bill!
I needed to do something about the horrible condition of the dashboard, as you can see from the picture from when I bought it, it was pretty sad:
(https://i.imgur.com/gS5FVZq.jpg)
So I have been playing around with it off and on for the past month, but between yesterday and today, I finally got it looking half way decent without spending a ton of money.
This is what the backside looked like:
(https://i.imgur.com/r5PE5hZ.jpg)
Plus the ashtray was missing so I ended up buying the only one I could find...
(https://i.imgur.com/IplKv8Y.jpg)
...not really a show piece, lol...
(https://i.imgur.com/G8qkh52.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PwzOF1w.jpg)
So I took it all apart and sandblasted the rust on the backside and then bead blasted the front side. Got it primed and painted it
(https://i.imgur.com/VrhIazb.jpg)
I also cleaned up the chrome, light brackets, AC vents etc... It's truly amazing how the desert sand gets into everything, even inside the light fixtures.
BEFORE:
(https://i.imgur.com/iJioaqA.jpg)
AFTER:
(https://i.imgur.com/XgnXGjF.jpg)
Yeah, the chrome still has some pits, but I'm not going to spend crazy money getting them rechromed:
(https://i.imgur.com/Ncg0A8m.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7IWHATV.jpg)
I even put the Factory Tire Decal back in the glove box:
(https://i.imgur.com/unA79jo.jpg)
Even managed to get the ashtray looking somewhat respectable:
(https://i.imgur.com/n5TneVK.jpg)
Finally finished assembling the dash, although I still need to find a wiper/washer switch, apparently they are no longer manufactured.
Found a few 2 speed switches online, but they don't have the washer feature and they are all in the $175-$200 range; YIKES!
So, if anybody knows of one or an option, please let me know; Thanks in Advance!
(https://i.imgur.com/f2EbVT8.jpg)
Managed to get it installed by myself, which turned out to be a project in itself, lol
(https://i.imgur.com/oUb07Zu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IRj87Zw.jpg)
Now I need to concentrate on the wiring....
Disregard, a member on another forum said a 69-77 Bronco switch will work but you have to shorten the shaft, so we ordered one.
Interesting how that "1/2-of-a-dash" is. It's gotta make finishing the stuff much easier
I would thinks so, just curious how bad it's going to be to install the pad with the windshield in?
The passenger side bracket came in today and I was able to duplicate the drivers side; worked out well as it is nice and sturdy.
(https://i.imgur.com/3pCs1Tv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mg0kx2d.jpg)
Also scraped off the old insulation and scrubbed it with lacquer thinner and a red scuff pad, then washed it again so I could apply the Kilmat:
(https://i.imgur.com/Irekg4h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Mu9LXUf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sMTx2x4.jpg)
Also got the shoulder harness off and cleaned, hopefully they'll look better when the dry, although I doubt it and will probably have to dye them:
(https://i.imgur.com/lsCsfzA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RejxuOC.jpg)
Joe I would take a serious look at going new with those. Many belt providers with complete and make your own out there. There is no way of knowing what those old belts have gone through. Given the magic you've accomplished to this point it is chump change to go new, IMHO.
Thanks Bill, but those are the shoulder harnesses that mount to the headliner above each door. It is not a matter of money, it's just that I don't see anyone who makes them, also, I will never wear them.
As far as the lap belts go, I have already purchased them new.
(https://i.imgur.com/C7NqNll.jpg)
Joe, many years ago when I lived in Dallas, I had seat belts remade by a firm that refurbished private air craft. I took them apart, had the hardware re-chromed and the aircraft refurbishing company installed new webbing. They still look great today. You might look for such a firm in your area.
John
Thanks....or I could just eliminate them all together.
I did just that, with a car that had that belt.
Drilled two small holes through the floor for the cut-outs and installed rubber grommets and ran the wires along the rocker to the dash.
(https://i.imgur.com/GVqDev6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MwOulfl.jpg)
Also managed to get the radiator, shroud, electric fan and guard installed. I had to order a different thermostat housing to utilize the stock upper hose.
Should see that in a few days.
(https://i.imgur.com/WyIrjTa.jpg)
Dissembled the gauge cluster I rebuilt because my wife had bought me a set of Dakota Digital gauges for my birthday and mounted them in the original Ford housing:
(https://i.imgur.com/HqAkkF1.jpg)
I had my doubts about the used pad that came with the car as it was disgusting, but after a lot of scrubbing and a new molding and a new illumination strip, it looks pretty good.
The kit even came with a new clock to replace the original:
(https://i.imgur.com/VXIZOqz.jpg)
You'll be ready for a drive pretty soon.....I'll send you my address, lol.
LOL, not really; still plenty of work to do!
I need to catchup/get some work done; as I just got back from Corvettes at Carlisle.
I got to see Dave Kindig's TwelveAir in person, absolutely beautiful piece!
(https://i.imgur.com/wKVZRml.jpg)
Haven't been working on the car much due to some family health issues, but I did manage to get the rest of the trunk painted and the Trunk Divider Board installed.
If you look at the wheel wells and the seat backs supports, they are still red oxide:
(https://i.imgur.com/LCoFIQk.jpg)
Painted yellow with the divider installed:
(https://i.imgur.com/hzlUPHD.jpg)
The fit was decent, but did require some trimming and modifications.
(https://i.imgur.com/AwJd9AO.jpg)
The fit was decent, but did require some trimming and modifications
Found the same with many "same as original" pieces in many instances due to the new sound proofing/heat barrier going places that the factory didn't even think of doing! Just part of the "excitement" of working/building old cars! The list of surprises never ends......
Bill, that may be true, but in this case, some of the mounting slots were not even close. For example on the bottom row of slots, two were perfect but the passenger side one was about an inch and a half off. The cutouts for the package tray tabs were also about an inch too high .
We are fortunate that some of these items are still available in the aftermarket, but unfortunate that they rarely fit without modifications.
(https://i.imgur.com/wEttZ9s.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YLcgWVP.jpg)
I know a lot of you told me to abandon the original shoulder harness that are no longer reproduced, but I still went ahead and color matched them more for originality.
Before you tell me I'm crazy and taking safety out of the equation, keep in mind that these are only here for looks and will not latch up to the "modern" belts.
Anyway, I think they matched up pretty good for 57 year old crap.
Before:
(https://i.imgur.com/WyTSZ9Y.jpg)
After:
(https://i.imgur.com/1YppBo3.jpg)
I believe I get your thinking, Joe. Even though these early shoulder harnesses were a bit of an awkward design, they still were a major visible part on these late 60s Muscle cars, especially on HT coupes. my friend Sascha owns a 70 MachI 351C, that his father bought in Canada in the early 70s ( while working there) and brought back home.
The car has been fully restored and has flawless dark green metallic paint (as og) and he still has the og style seat belts up there and it certainly adds to the general 'brandnew in 1970' feel of his pony.
Exactly; it's too big of a piece to omit, IMO.
Haven't been working on the car much lately, as I lost my mom last week.
I was able to find a new package tray though from a member of the Torino forum for a reasonable price!
It was nice to meet him and a pleasure doing business with him!
(https://i.imgur.com/m3P1hEY.jpg)
I'm sorry to hear of your mom's passing, that's really sad. Seems like there has been a lot of that lately. Was she living in Mass?
Yes she was Rich, she was 93 but had taken a turn for the worse a couple of weeks ago....
Mine turns 94 this Tuesday.
Sorry to hear about your mom.
Sorry to hear about your Mom!
Joe, I've been down that road with my parents. Regardless of the age, it's never easy to say good bye. Treasure the memories.
John
Thank you all...
So sorry Joe. Been down that road myself. No easy way to move on. Time will make it easier.
Thanks Bill
Well, I had started to get the wiring straightened out but had a few intermittent issues with the taillights.
I found a spot where they wires were bent at 90° going into the rear wheel well, if I moved them I could sometimes get them to work. Not wanting any problems, I opened the harness to find the wire insulation stiff and brittle.
I had most of the dash installed, including the heat and AC, new turn signal stalk, the Dakota Digital gauges, had all the headlights working including the scoop turn signals...
(https://i.imgur.com/oCRWLaC.jpg)
So....
(https://i.imgur.com/xJ8ForG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uAsl8x9.jpg)
...I decided to rip out the whole factory harness out and ordered a Painless,
(https://i.imgur.com/cJXEpJ0.jpg)
I also had decided if I was basically starting over, I gave up on trying to make the factory AC unit work as I couldn't find all the parts needed to make it function. So...
....out came that too:
(https://i.imgur.com/hRMBQig.jpg)
Well...at least the paint is really nice, the exhaust is grand and the insulation inside is great, engine should be a screamer and trans will be snappy...
Hate surprises going down the stretch. bawl
Honestly, with all the work you've done restoring that car to perfection, I'm surprised wiring wasn't first on your list. The Painless will be ok, but Ron Francis is the way to go for Ford guys. Just my 3 cents (inflation).
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2025-09-22 20:24The Painless will be ok, but Ron Francis is the way to go for Ford guys. Just my 3 cents (inflation).
How big is the difference in pricing? Or was when you bought yours anyhow?
I agree, as I have Ron Francis in my '39, just got a better deal on the Painless.
As far as not replacing it originally, I wanted to keep it somewhat original. I had pulled the whole harness out of the car, with the exception of the taillight harness because it looked nice and neat and was tucked inside the channel running into the trunk. (I opened it up inside the trunk and cleaned and retaped it figuring I would be okay.)
As far as the rest of the harness goes, I un-taped it, cleaned all the wires with brakeclean, inspected them and then re-taped it all and re-installed it back into the car. I replaced the turn signal harness and figured most of the gauges wires would be replaced with the Dakota Digital stuff.
Oh well, live and learn. :rtfm:
I ordered a couple of Vintage Air bulkhead fittings so I didn't have to run the heater hoses into the car and could utilize the original holes:
(https://i.imgur.com/CMON0bx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bIseiLD.jpg)
While the RF kits are more expensive they are custom tailored to your specific application. All the "end" connectors can be tailored to your car and its subsystems. The kit also has a serial number that ties their records to your kit. That pays big if there is an issue, call their tech line and give he/she your serial number and they will know your kit and its idiosyncrasies. I have installed both for other folks, both kits are good, wires are well marked, easy for the beginner to use. My personal preference is the RF kit.
Long couple of days, but managed to get the AC/Heat Evaporator installed and also got wires roughed out. Modified the universal defroster ducts and made brackets to mount them to the original holes.
Even made a bracket for, and installed the Dakota Digital Control Box.
(https://i.imgur.com/6D80FRA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/I7CNIOA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5Zx6avH.jpg)
Is that the Painless wiring already?! That didn't take long. Where are you mounting the fuse panel? Keep us informed on how the wiring kit goes, please. If I was aware of anybody I knew using one on a Ford, I have long forgotten. I don't want to be spreading wrong info about them primarily designed for GM if that's not the case.
Rich, sometimes I'm a day or two behind on my posting, sorry, but I do move quick, lol.
Yes it is, I mounted the fuse panel below the original and routed the harness through the original fuse panel hole into the engine compartment.
When we built the Ford Cobras we had used the Painless harness as that was what came with the kits.
I remove the spade terminals and utilize the original ford plugs from the old harness anyways, so not too big of a deal.
(https://i.imgur.com/pvDjVLy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BeSzKmr.jpg)
I had the same GM style issues with my RF harness. I ordered the RF harness with the specific FOMOCO steering column connection so it was plug and play. The headlight switch and courtesy light circuit was similar to GM wiring. I removed the terminals from the GM style headlight connector to plug them into the FOMOCO headlight connector. It was a waste of time because the GM style spade terminals would not latch into the FOMOCO connector. So I had to replace the terminals with FOMOCO compatible terminals...not the first time I've ran into this. It would have been much quicker and easier if I would have cut the harness in the first place.
The old Heat/AC system had a fresh air intake on the passenger side that will no longer be used:
(https://i.imgur.com/CybH3ID.jpg)
I traced out the old vent onto 1/4" aluminum plate, cut it out and counter sunk the holes and sealed it with some butyl:
(https://i.imgur.com/MLbKwun.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IvM2NBW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zyQYa0w.jpg)
It's impressive how much detail work goes into finishing a full resto/resto mod.
Yeah DJ, I can't imagine trying to do something like a '59 caddy!
Managed to get the front and rear brake, backup. turn and marker light wires run and soldered along with the trunk light:
(https://i.imgur.com/U79lzc6.jpg)
Apparently missed a little area with the bedliner, I'll have to brush that in:
(https://i.imgur.com/widiZs8.jpg)
Also installed the front RetroBrights and got them all wired along with directionals and marker lights:
(https://i.imgur.com/bR0RzsI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0I4Ts5h.jpg)
For those not familiar with the Holley ReroBrights, they are basically a plug and play LED. They are available in both a 3000K Classic white or the 5700K Modern White.
Here are my 5700K plugged into a DeWalt battery:
(https://i.imgur.com/TlfsgVc.jpg)
very nice.....expensive? Good idea with the rechargeable battery, I had a friend suggest just that many years ago. I took it a step further and bought a 12v reversible drill and took out the drill motor. I ran my leads to the wires that were hooked up to the drill motor. Doing that, you can hook up all the wires with no power until you pull the switch. Easy to reverse current flow....just flip that reverse switch!
Cool idea Rich!
Yeah, sigh, they aren't cheap; about $160 each, but hey, I don't see so well at night anymore. :dontknow:
Plus, I'm spoiled with the lights on all our newer vehicles. :sign13:
Joe are these LED units direct replacements for sealed beams or do they have kind of a removable bulb/ LED panel ?
DJ:
*Plug & Play - Plugs into factory headlight harness for easy installation
*Available in 7 in. Round, 5.75 in. Round, 5x7 in. Rectangle, and 4x6 in. Rectangle sizes
*Classic Styling - Retro styled headlight for period correct appearance
*Superior - Over 2x the light output of halogens to keep you and your classic safe
*Low Draw/Extended Life - Less current draw and 6x the life of halogen sealed beams
*Compliant - No-glare beam pattern meets or exceeds SAE and DOT Requirements
*Serviceable - Replaceable LED cartridges for easy serviceability
*Proper Fitment - Engineered to fit most shallow light buckets found on classic vehicles
*Stronger - UV Treated Polycarbonate Lens won't shatter and is 10x stronger than glass or standard plastic
Compatible - Sealed Beam Trade Numbers: H5024, 6012, H6014, 6015, 6016, H6017, H6024, H602
*Color Choice - Available in "Classic White" (3000K bulb) for a warm classic hue, "Modern White" (5700K
bulb) for a cleaner modern look, or a Yellow Lens (utilizes 5700K bulb inside)
HOLLEY RETROBRIGHT LED HEADLIGHTS (https://www.holley.com/brands/holley_retrobright/?utm_term=holley%20retro%20bright&utm_campaign=Google+Search+-+RetroBright+-+Brand&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&hsa_acc=7848552874&hsa_cam=15316219393&hsa_grp=127276626662&hsa_ad=563056881560&hsa_src=g&hsa_tgt=kwd-1685556015595&hsa_kw=holley%20retro%20bright&hsa_mt=b&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=15316219393&gbraid=0AAAAAD1FzSp6O_lccc8Etg71T8eEnRT3L&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0NPGBhCDARIsAGAzpp338tRnWoLkjpY09-i3SXVsRt4xXBjNHNF9nLh096ILBsxrSVHdqtwaAirEEALw_wcB)
Managed to get some more wiring done today:
(https://i.imgur.com/VMeWIGK.jpg)
Trying to keep things somewhat tidy:
(https://i.imgur.com/zYRorQx.jpg)
I didn't want to run the backup light wiring under the car so I peeled up some of the sound deadener and drilled a hole above the tranny and put in a grommet:
(https://i.imgur.com/w7BRCys.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DRoiKzY.jpg)
Then just cut another piece and covered it back up again:
(https://i.imgur.com/QeOtY6O.jpg)
Took a little break from wiring and got the compressor brackets and pulleys bead blasted and painted so that I could get the compressor mounted. I was fortunate, I had a friend who bought a new Sanden compressor but didn't like the look of it when he opened the box, so he ordered a polished one.
Luckily I was able to buy it from him for peanuts:
(https://i.imgur.com/CLQAptS.jpg)
Then spent the rest of the afternoon modifying brackets, etc... so that I could get the condenser mounted so it looked halfway decent:
(https://i.imgur.com/ErFtrbz.jpg)
Now I need to find a place for the dryer and start finding a way to run the lines and then make up the hoses, but I might have to put this project on hold for a while as I have some other things to attend too.
thx Joe, I have only now seen your reply.
That sounds promising, I am glad I asked. With our old cars we need every bit of light we can get and I shy away from modifying any modern oem lights for the obviously involved electronics. In Austria we also must not use any type of sealed beams, they are simply outlawed. The bulb must be replaceable, and the unit must not blow out if a stone chip happens.
So all of that sounds like Go and GO for me with plastic lenses and serviceable LED units. sounds well worth the investment to me !
Quote from: CobraJoe on 2025-09-25 15:05DJ:
*Plug & Play - Plugs into factory headlight harness for easy installation
*Available in 7 in. Round, 5.75 in. Round, 5x7 in. Rectangle, and 4x6 in. Rectangle sizes
*Classic Styling - Retro styled headlight for period correct appearance
*Superior - Over 2x the light output of halogens to keep you and your classic safe
*Low Draw/Extended Life - Less current draw and 6x the life of halogen sealed beams
*Compliant - No-glare beam pattern meets or exceeds SAE and DOT Requirements
*Serviceable - Replaceable LED cartridges for easy serviceability
*Proper Fitment - Engineered to fit most shallow light buckets found on classic vehicles
*Stronger - UV Treated Polycarbonate Lens won't shatter and is 10x stronger than glass or standard plastic
Compatible - Sealed Beam Trade Numbers: H5024, 6012, H6014, 6015, 6016, H6017, H6024, H602
*Color Choice - Available in "Classic White" (3000K bulb) for a warm classic hue, "Modern White" (5700K
bulb) for a cleaner modern look, or a Yellow Lens (utilizes 5700K bulb inside)
HOLLEY RETROBRIGHT LED HEADLIGHTS (https://www.holley.com/brands/holley_retrobright/?utm_term=holley%20retro%20bright&utm_campaign=Google+Search+-+RetroBright+-+Brand&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&hsa_acc=7848552874&hsa_cam=15316219393&hsa_grp=127276626662&hsa_ad=563056881560&hsa_src=g&hsa_tgt=kwd-1685556015595&hsa_kw=holley%20retro%20bright&hsa_mt=b&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=15316219393&gbraid=0AAAAAD1FzSp6O_lccc8Etg71T8eEnRT3L&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0NPGBhCDARIsAGAzpp338tRnWoLkjpY09-i3SXVsRt4xXBjNHNF9nLh096ILBsxrSVHdqtwaAirEEALw_wcB)
You might want to revisit the AC compressor... I installed mine like your is now but the hoses were very high and close to the hood. I looked into clocking the compressor 90 degrees and discovered that technically the drain plug on the case should be "level" which meant it wasn't "correct" in the first place. I don't think it makes much if any difference actually but it improved the hose routing anyway.
I had it that way at first, but as you said, the drain/fill plug was below the "3 O'clock- 9 O'clock position. According to my neighbor who is a Marine AC tech, he said it will run with the plug below the oil level, but will pump oil in and out of the lines significantly shortening the compressor life. :017:
You are correct. I looked back at the Sanden SD Compressor Service Guide and it actually said the "compressor can be rotated 90 degrees clock wise or counter clock wise keeping the oil fill plug above the 3:00 or 9:00 positions." Not exactly what I remembered but we all know how that goes..... Mine is slightly above 3:00.
Perfect!
I do have plenty of hood clearance anyways:
(https://i.imgur.com/H6NcBTG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HV9EGm3.jpg)
Not much work on the car today, mostly a yard work day, but did manage to find a belt that fit:
(https://i.imgur.com/YErneTY.jpg)
Also spent some time trying to find a nice route for the AC hoses. I think the suction line will utilize the #10 90° bulkhead fitting in the extra (third) hole from the heater core and run rearward from the compressor.
(http://i.imgur.com/Tk1lNOr.jpg) (https://imgur.com/Tk1lNOr)
The discharge line will run from the bottom of the condenser across the front of the radiator support into the fender well.
I mounted the dryer on the inner fender and made a standoff out of 1/2" aluminum that I center drilled on the lathe, that way it will stay vertical:
(https://i.imgur.com/ewSxjYg.jpg)
Installed the Trinary switch and painted it all black:
(https://i.imgur.com/4cp4Hkt.jpg)
I drilled a hole in the old blower motor bump out and installed a grommet that I punched out to accept the #6 discharge hose off the dryer to the evaporator:
(https://i.imgur.com/q1Ohr8M.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rjB4zZY.jpg)
I think this will work out well as to keep some of the hoses hidden.
Joe, after several hours of "pondering my belly button" I finally came up with a solution to the "engine compartment plumbing rats nest". Like you the dryer is out of the way, my trinary is behind the glove box. The heater hoses run under the battery box, all in an effort to clean the engine bay. I used the existing battery box brace bolts to fasten the bracket to keep the hoses off the tire or even coming close.
Nicely done Bill!
Haven't had much time to work on the car, but I did manage to make a plate to cover the old AC hose holes:
(https://i.imgur.com/GKixhju.jpg)
Seam sealed it:
(https://i.imgur.com/IlocBxv.jpg)
....and got it painted:
(https://i.imgur.com/2xNGztE.jpg)
Not much, but I guess it's still progress
Baby steps. Made it disappear anyhow...at least in the pic. :003:
I had some time yesterday to start making up the AC lines. I bought the Vintage Air Crimp tool so that I could make up the lines as I went. I had asked the only local shop around that makes up AC hoses and they said anywhere from $75-$150 per line, depending on size and length as well as fitting type, so I figured I would be better off building my own.
This is the tool with both Beadlock and Reduced Barrier dies:
(https://i.imgur.com/alFEaOx.jpg)
The dies just snap into the jaws and then you insert the hose and fitting into the die, pump the handle until the jaws touch:
(https://i.imgur.com/bwyQzkA.jpg)
....release, and you have a nice perfectly crimped hose end:
(https://i.imgur.com/trhYSEX.jpg)
These are the two I made up yesterday:
(https://i.imgur.com/5gyTYqW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7rWllUY.jpg)
I still need to "tidy up" my ignition wires, but I won't do that until after I get it running. I learned the hard way that sometimes they get "too short" once you get the timing fully adjusted.
Nice tool. Materials for A/C lines are crazy expensive. Even the braided ss do-it-yourself lines and fittings will run a line up to 60-80. easy.
I have also used the SS DIY lines. I like the DIY and reuseable features. The downside is the expense and they are nearly impossible to 'clock' two angled ends.
Managed to get some time to do a few more AC lines today.
Started inside on the Evaporator to the Dryer:
(https://i.imgur.com/rLrcMUW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KWo2BUc.jpg)
Then from the Dryer through the fender opening:
(https://i.imgur.com/NhXvYhz.jpg)
I then ran it under the valance to try and hide it:
(https://i.imgur.com/JJSEUg8.jpg)
I secured it using the factory bolt holes everywhere, I had to make a standoff so the hose wouldn't chafe on the sheet metal:
(https://i.imgur.com/iL7tSNv.jpg)
I think it's hidden pretty well?
(https://i.imgur.com/KmSBevM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/75AoK4X.jpg)
I still need one more fitting to finish, hopefully it arrives tomorrow.
Well...someone has to say it...so...Looks pretty cool! :icon_bigsmurf: :003: :005:
Thank you kind sir
I used Aeroquip EZ clip hose and fittings. The hose is smaller, more flexible, and assembles with hand tools.
P.S. Joe everything you do is "spot-on".
Thank you Lynn, much appreciated!
The -8 straight fitting I've been waiting for, finally came in today so I was able to finish the AC lines:
(https://i.imgur.com/fFFGLH2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/irOCgtd.jpg)
Now I just need to find the time to get back to finishing the wiring....
just a tip.......before charging the system, check the shraeder valves in the fill fittings to make sure they are tight. When I put my system together, I wrongfully assumed the fittings I got with the valves installed would be tight. They were not. Took forever to find that leak because the caps were minimizing the bleed out.
Thanks Rich, I'll probably pull a vacuum first to make sure all my connections are good.
I had forgotten about the vacumn leak test, I did do that too.
Funny thing, the vacuum will check OK but the system will still leak. Seems like the suction pulls the valve closed, put gas in and they loose their grip.....don't ask me how I know this......yes, they had about a quarter to one third turn to seat properly.
Gee thanks! I wished I would have known that (or thought about it) a few years ago.... :002:
Just an update, I haven't touched my car since my last post, been building an addition on my garage and working on the '62 Corvette.
(https://i.imgur.com/RLOgnoe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ez2LX9i.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/p4Xq8ZZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/84xE5Gb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XUM3BfC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jGt37lI.jpg)
Here's some pics of the Vette:
(https://i.imgur.com/mgoxNky.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mLrVNQ6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UsWW7Vd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JtE41oU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BGvCnWj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IKpym6J.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Fe250mP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4XXpzFU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2vg2tsz.jpg)
Looks like you left plenty of room for more additions... :003:
Added another 10' x 40', that's the last one, I'm done.
Just curious what the extra space will be used for.
To move some of the stuff out of my main garage. As you can see in the pic, it gets pretty tight in their when the vehicles are parked:
(https://i.imgur.com/DRf5fpR.jpg)
Quote from: CobraJoe on 2025-12-02 07:30Added another 10' x 40', that's the last one, I'm done.
Famous last words, lol.
That 'vette is going to be great.got a color planned?
Quote from: CobraJoe on 2025-12-02 07:30Added another 10' x 40', that's the last one, I'm done.
And how did the neighbor we spoke about take this new addition? Hopefully he has learned to keep his nose on his side of the fence.
Hugh, fortunately, there was nothing he could do about it, as it was on the back and no where's near his "right of way".
Rich,@ 66, I really am done. As far as the 'Vette, it's going to be a Restomod. I talked a good friend into making it what "He" wants it to be. It's not a numbers matching car, so it's got a chassis being built for it and it's got a 475 HP fuel injected SBC w/ a 5 speed Tremec.
Color is going to be a Mercedes Silver. We are going to put the "61 Cove Moldings and Side Spears on it so the cove is probably going to be white.
He asked me to help him get the body cut to fit the new chassis and do the glass work and help him get the project done; in return, he built the addition for me.
That's why I stopped working on my GT; I just couldn't pass up the offer.
That being said, yesterday I delivered it to the body shop, so I have some time to get back on mine; well, at least until the chassis shows up.
It's officially delivered to the body shop; Now I can get 0nto work on my GT!!
(https://i.imgur.com/8qDzMIv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lQ12fj0.jpg)
Floor done today, hopefully door tomorrow....
(https://i.imgur.com/ocypwC0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/N91Ojdw.jpg)
Just went to update the work I managed to get done on my '68 this week but never realized I hadn't posted pictures of the door install from 2 weeks ago...
(https://i.imgur.com/CoMiRv4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QaH2XCx.jpg)
Well, spent a week on wiring the '68...took a bit to remember where I left off and what was completed, but managed to figure it out.
Ran into a problem with marker lights and turn signals. The right front marker would go out when the left rear directional was on for some reason?
Figured I had a bad ground so played with that for a bit but didn't really correct the problem, anyways, long story short, (literally) one of the taillights was factory crimped and heat shrunk in the harness was loose. Took me two days to find and correct it as I started disconnecting my soldered connections until I found it and then had to re do them.
Anyways, it's all back together and working finally. I got the AC wiring, Trinary/fan switch, heater, all 4 of the headlights and dimmers, turn signals, flashers, brakes, wipers, washers, ignition, MSD, Dakota Digital Gauges, etc... all completed.
The only thing I think left is the ignition switch. I was de-pinning the original switch from the factory harness so that I could use the OG connector, ( I did the same on the headlights and wipers) but it so so brittle from the heat that it just crumbled. I ended up ordering one from Amazon Wednesday because I figured it would be quick, sadly it's tied up in the USPS and now showing a delivery date of the 31st for some reason.
Here are some progress pics:
(https://i.imgur.com/J2ihsMB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mLIbMiu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6pLaYsM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/I2oIxzO.jpg)
Quote from: CobraJoe on 2025-12-27 11:56IT"S ALIVE!!!
SWEET!!! :006: :003: :burnout:
Got to be an exciting day! great job Joe!!!! Thanks for sharing
That's great. It's good to hear another one fire up!
VERY NICE!
Thanks guys!!! :003:
Finished wiring up the stereo and amplifier today; I didn't want it to overheat, so I put it in the trunk rather than under the seat.
I ran the power supply to the battery through the inner fender along the AC line through the firewall and down the passenger side sill with the speaker wires:
(https://i.imgur.com/oEXjuua.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6WmsvoD.jpg)
I ran the amp control wire and the speaker RCA's down the driver side with the rear wiring harness:
(https://i.imgur.com/Ia7Ds0y.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uywGCNc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3ruZvUa.jpg)
Nice and clean. :006:
Thanks Hugh.
Well, it's been a productive couple of days; I managed to get the dash back together, but not without several issues.
First off, I got all the AC ducting done with the exception of the center two vents.
All the original dash vents are rectangular, but the two end vents have rectangular to round plastic boxes from the factory as seen below:
(https://i.imgur.com/a0sVEu1.jpg)
The center vents utilize this plastic box that connects directly to the Original Heater/AC box, it's the one circled in this pic:
(https://i.imgur.com/acBJxt7.jpg)
Unable to buy anything that would fit and connect to the round ducting, I ended up cutting the original into three pieces:
(https://i.imgur.com/YqlG1Sz.jpg)
I then cut a block off plate out of the excess and panel bonded it to the end:
(https://i.imgur.com/RnkM1rs.jpg)
I also removed the bellows and rotated the vent attachment 180* for clearance under the dash and panel bonded it also:
(https://i.imgur.com/2ET1Eup.jpg)
It's a little tight, but it works:
(https://i.imgur.com/CQc7Sbb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Z43pfto.jpg)
Okay, so now that that's done, it's just a matter of installing the glove box and putting the dash pad back on, right?
Well, even though the new AC/Heater is smaller than the original, apparently the mounting bracket hits the glove box liner and won't allow it to go in all the way.
So..., I marked where it was hitting:
(https://i.imgur.com/LAXYXQb.jpg)
....and cut the piece out:
(https://i.imgur.com/4H6EJwG.jpg)
I then cut the corners so I could fold it over backwards:
(https://i.imgur.com/O0sWFfL.jpg)
...and then riveted back on the box:
(https://i.imgur.com/LOBEvXs.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QyhWanI.jpg)
...and finally was able to install it!
(https://i.imgur.com/Y6cjuwj.jpg)
Alright, now just put the dash pad in place, but first I need to bolt in the speaker...
Guess what, that hits the clock! WTF???
I ended up taking the clock apart and it's basically its just a big box around a small digital board about an 1.5" square.
I cut the corner of the housing out and was going to hot glue a piece in place, but realized it was far from air tight so I just used Gorilla tape to close the opening. I also forgot to take pics of it apart, apparently old age really does suck!
Anyways, it gave me enough clearance to mount the speakers:
(https://i.imgur.com/2lEGQEs.jpg)
In the end, I was finally able to get it installed and got everything working:
(https://i.imgur.com/ofVwAe1.jpg)
...even the factory blue control lights:
(https://i.imgur.com/YckMATv.jpg)
I'm very pleased with the results:
(https://i.imgur.com/qFUbMUy.jpg)
That WAS a good day's work. Good job.
You SHOULD be pleased! And they wonder why guys start balding on the crown of their head! All that scratching over confounding things...LOL!!! :003:
Thanks guys!
Brought the headliner down the other day and unfolded it on the heated floor so I could start the installation it this weekend.
This morning I started by cleaning up the OG bows up with the "Old Cheek Poker" to quote Mr. Derek Bieri
(https://i.imgur.com/2wpkjEd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IrWaMB9.jpg)
Also cleaned up the windshield headliner retainer and coated both sides with contact adhesive
(https://i.imgur.com/O7zxRHR.jpg)
After I got all the bows snapped in, I centered it and tried to pull it taught and then clipped it to the door pinch weld:
(https://i.imgur.com/4GWLj8n.jpg)
I then clipped the headliner to the retainer over the windshield
(https://i.imgur.com/2RwOjSU.jpg)
I didn't have the bow retainers for the Torino, but I had some for a '68 Mustang, but they were too short"
(https://i.imgur.com/4fQKlvl.jpg)
Found these online, actually the only Fairlane/Torino ones I could find, but I wasn't paying $50 + shipping,
(https://i.imgur.com/P5oHdvk.jpg)
So, I just made a pair out of SS Tig wire using the measurement in the photo, they worked out fine as they held tight when I pulled it forward.
After I pulled it taught, I removed the windshield clips and sprayglued the headliner to the previously coated windshield strip.
Then I installed the plastic trim to hold it to the windshield pinch weld before pulling it tight in the rear
(https://i.imgur.com/AFYzpfh.jpg)
I don't know if all the wrinkles will come out, as the date on it was 2018, that's a long time to be folded up!
(https://i.imgur.com/SPsACrF.jpg)
I'm sure some will come out after the shoulder harness's, dome light and sun visors are installed. Maybe I can steam some out, we'll see how it goes.
Anyways, I guess I'm one more step closer....
(https://i.imgur.com/5H8v9We.jpg)
Looks pretty good for 7+ years folded up.
Would a simple hair dryer on a medium setting provide enough heat to maybe work out the wrinkles? Just thinking...and that hurts gotta tell you. But hey..what's a little pain to maybe have a siolution right? < ::) Now...where is that bottle of Bayer? ;) >
If I recall correctly, heat applied to vinyl will make it stretch, not shrink. I think nylon will shrink with heat, and cotton will shrink with water/steam. Things to consider when choosing a fabric type for a headliner, if that is a build option. My headliner is a synthetic material, so no shrinking, had to do it the hard way.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2026-01-04 20:10If I recall correctly, heat applied to vinyl will make it stretch, not shrink. I think nylon will shrink with heat, and cotton will shrink with water/steam. Things to consider when choosing a fabric type for a headliner, if that is a build option. My headliner is a synthetic material, so no shrinking, had to do it the hard way.
Yea...heat is not a friend of vinyl. Didn't say...is it vinyl Joe?
It appears to be, but not sure of the exact composition, it came with the car, the only thing marked on the backside with marker, was the application model and date.
Okay, so I spent some time with the heat gun and managed to get some of the wrinkles out by undoing the sides and front and pulling it again (I really didn't have much choice as the heat softened the glue).
(https://i.imgur.com/0MgUQFa.jpg)
The creases really haven't changed much, but I'll try pulling the rear sides a little more when my fabric comes in for my sail panels.
Also, I may be able to work the crease behind the dome light when I install it, currently still waiting for it to arrive.
(https://i.imgur.com/xs8OKa5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/t1J0hqw.jpg)
I also think that when I put the windlace over the pinch weld, it will tighten it up some more, anyways....
....I think it's definitely better than it was:
(https://i.imgur.com/HKbntkG.jpg)
OH YEAH!! looking good. I'm curious if that car has the two wires from the last bow to over the back window (like the '57's)
Thanks Rich, and , yes they do. You can see them in post # 411, they are the ones I had to make as I didn't want to spend $$$$$
Looks infinitely better! Most of the wrinkle now looks to be by the back of the car near the window...right of center. But sure got a lot out. :003:
Yes, that's where it was folded and tucked in like a paper airplane! :old:
Dome light came in this morning so I got it installed:
(https://i.imgur.com/PHQoP5r.jpg)
Unfortunately, I think because I used the upper headliner bows (I did it for more headroom incase I ever autocrossed it and wore a helmet) that the brace is what is causing that pucker:
(https://i.imgur.com/0zOf7Lp.jpg)
I've been struggling with this rug for the past two days, it came with the car. It's new and it is molded, but I'm assuming it's the same vintage as the headliner, 2018.
I had laid them out on the heated floor for 5 days after I unfolded them, but they lost their shape and were so creased, that I opted to glue them in place, as the backing was already glued to the rug which made it hold the shape of the folds. I really tried hard to make it fit; I heated the folds and placed heavy steel weights on it but wasn't happy with the fit. So, I ended up tearing it all out and cleaning the stuck backing off the floor and started over.
This was the result:
(https://i.imgur.com/WKn1CuR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KQwZgLs.jpg)
It's hard to see in the pictures, but there are "raised" areas like on the mid-rear of the tunnel that are really out of shape from being folded; basically, it isn't tapered any more.
I'm sure it will be more noticeable when I install the shifter boot.
If I don't like it, I'll probably replace it next winter as I need to stop the "bleeding" for a little while.
I am an optimist...so...
Thinking that with "use" of people getting in and out that it will "loosen up" a bit and regain some flexibility allowing for an adjustment maybe end of summer. Maybe? :dontknow:
Joe, are you going to add some dirt mats to the front floors? If you chose to cut them yourself and have the edges sewn. I am pretty sure you could figure out a shape that wants to pull the original carpet down around the transmission hump.
I guess there could be a problem with the shape of the tunnel since you added floor shift.
I always have extra floormats that I can pull out of the car, to protect the carpet.
DJ, you would think my adding a floor shift would have helped the issue as the carpet around the tunnel is too tall which actually needs to be pulled down to the shifter
oh, now I understand. I thought it was the other way around than what you actually have going on. I'd still say there is a chance it will settle some more since the trans tunnel is one of the hottest spots on the whole body. even though you have everything lined with heat/noise insulation mats.
I've been getting a few "how to" questions on some of the stuff I've been doing, so I figured I'd do a door panel tutorial. I know a lot of you guys have done these before so I'm not saying my way is the right way, it's just how I did mine.
As you can see, the old panels were junk"
(https://i.imgur.com/am3zPat.jpg)
....and the new panels do not come with the upper metal that hangs on the door so you have to reuse yours, so I pried the old Masonite off the metal:
(https://i.imgur.com/pFzJTX9.jpg)
...and then straightened out all the pins with a pair of pliers so they would be able to pierce into the new panels:
(https://i.imgur.com/SKbEFpN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cqz9hDl.jpg)
After that I cut off the old staples for the belt molding and cleaned it up for the new panel:
(https://i.imgur.com/lb7dA56.jpg)
The new panel has three layers of material: one outer layer with the other two acting as padding/backing:
(https://i.imgur.com/kYXMdVd.jpg)
I used a putty knife to release the material enough to slide the metal piece in, if you notice, there are 4 alignment holes that match up with the metal piece:
(https://i.imgur.com/AowbD1S.jpg)
Then I tucked the metal in behind the panel being sure to align the holes:
(https://i.imgur.com/jPlCiRP.jpg)
I then tapped the panel over the pins to secure it:
(https://i.imgur.com/t4uTK7d.jpg)
I added a few 3/16 rivets into the holes for add strength, but this cardboard is not very durable
(https://i.imgur.com/n4Xs372.jpg)
Then I stretched and glued the first two layers onto the metal and trimmed them even with the edge (I didn't want a lot of buildup on the beltline as I wanted to make sure the staples would hold tight):
(https://i.imgur.com/qzVpSiq.jpg)
After that I glued the the black vinyl up and over the edge and clamped the beltline in place and started drilling the holes for the staples:
(https://i.imgur.com/6eggkCe.jpg)
Pushed the staples through and bent them over with pliers:
(https://i.imgur.com/Olof9wC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/D5jozMl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HOf0usL.jpg)
This is how it looked when I was done:
(https://i.imgur.com/1wzlEJp.jpg)
After that it was just a matter of cutting out the premarked holes holes and installing the clips, placing it on the door and installing all of the hardware.
The finished product:
(https://i.imgur.com/4rCmpcg.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pvwNqvR.jpg)
Appears you sorta had an idea of what you were doing! Looks great!!! :006:
Good job. It looks original! I have found studying the original, how it is assembled before taking things apart goes a long way to having a nice, finished product! 65 Bird and 58 Edsel Pacer door panels come to mind. Both had a few hours of belly button pondering before rebuilding.....
Thanks, they don't tell you the door panels aren't complete when you buy them, nor do they give you any instructions.
Yup!
Got the other door panel done, windlace on and the covers on the shoulder harnesses.
(https://i.imgur.com/3PEXu9N.jpg)
Started on the back panels yesterday and finished them up today.
(https://i.imgur.com/vVY0efk.jpg)
The top of the metal cap was pretty rusty, probably from the window & rain:
(https://i.imgur.com/IS3bPY0.jpg)
...so I sand blasted them before I put the panels together...
(https://i.imgur.com/mjVnDEA.jpg)
Same procedure as the front, glue and trim etc...
(https://i.imgur.com/Ki4faUX.jpg)
I also cleaned up the corner pieces, but they were pretty faded as you can see by the one on the right, so I painted them with the black interior paint I used on the seat belts:
(https://i.imgur.com/t9H90Bu.jpg)
I think they came out okay for used pieces
(https://i.imgur.com/n0ybimN.jpg)
...and the finished product, well, semi-finished (the rear arm rests are still on back order for almost a year now)
(https://i.imgur.com/qIXRMqV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BA28d5L.jpg)
The supervisory staff seemed to be bored. :003:
The security system is down temporarily for maintenance.....the slog of interior work is almost as bad as polishing stainless...but well worth the slog in the end. Very nice work Joe!
LOL, thanks gentlemen!
They seem to love the radiant heat floor, sometimes too much!
. Well, took it easy today and got the back seat bolted in place just to see how it looked and how the rug would work out.
. It will have to come back out to do the package tray, but I can't do that until the "Moonskin" comes in for the sail panels, it's been on back order from AutoKrafters for ever, so I found a guy who had 4 feet of it on Epay, so I just ordered it and will have to wait for it to come in .
. Anyways, plenty of other stuff to button up so I'll start on that stuff this week. Leaving for Barret-Jackson with some friend next week so progress will slow for a bit.
(https://i.imgur.com/HBSsSpo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5tF73WB.jpg)
Looks sharp. Gonna be an head turner to be sure. :006:
Pretty awesome. Are you gonna drive it out here to show me?
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2026-01-11 16:14Pretty awesome. Are you gonna drive it out here to show me?
"Show you"? Pretty sure you meant take you for a ride...right? :burnout:
Rich, I would but I figured you wanted to come back and see your old home town??>
BTW Joe..big doin's all summer in Springfield for the Route 66 100th celebration. Crown jewel will be the car show August 7-8.
Just tossing it out there... :006:
Washed the car today; one step forward, two steps back:
Uh...gonna have to try that post again on the video...OOPs! bawl
Can you not see the video Hugh?
nope...screen is black and says this video is private. When I clicked on it took me to a scree with multiple videos, but none of you washing the car.
OOPs! Was there supposed to be some caulk there?
Quote from: mustang6984 on 2026-01-11 17:19BTW Joe..big doin's all summer in Springfield for the Route 66 100th celebration. Crown jewel will be the car show August 7-8.
Just tossing it out there... :006:
Are you going to have your Fairlane there?
I'd like to, but to be honest...better chance of the SVO being done. If the Fairlane were to be taken, it would be as a running project car, and not really be very easy to look at.
BUT...you could drive yours out and go with me! :003:
Yeah, I had window urethane in there, but to be honest, I was concerned as the aftermarket rubber seemed to fit loose compared to others I have done.
Starting over, it was a bitch getting it with the urethane....
(https://i.imgur.com/KByjNwf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VbJ9yXM.jpg)
Started back up yesterday and finished it up today.
First I put a bead of this non-drying butyl inside the rubber that seats on the pinch-weld:
(https://i.imgur.com/ci9yur5.jpg)
...before I installed the string to pull the window onto the car (that proved to be interesting in itself!) :
(https://i.imgur.com/rNkIlEr.jpg)
I also placed a good size bead on the pinch-weld in all four corners where the metal overlaps before the installation.
Once it was installed, I poured water around the window as it says it can be water tested right away; I had a small leak in the two bottom corners. I think this rubber is a smaller diameter than the original which doesn't fit as tight as it should, so I used low air pressure to blow out the water without shooting black butyl everywhere. Then I used a plastic panel pry tool to pull the rubber up enough to get the caulking gun tip under enough to pump some more sealer in. Water tested it again and had one small leak on passenger side which sealed up with a little more butyl.
After that I placed a small bead of urethane between the glass and the rubber and let it dry overnight so I could trim it with a razorblade.
The butyl never dries so I was able to install the molding clips along with the molding today, they went on very easy:
(https://i.imgur.com/hdB4MwE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5g7DtOS.jpg)
It's finally done, but I must say, it was a VERY, VERY MESSY job, thank God for 3M Trim Adhesive Remover and lots of rags!
Thanks for the info I have both windows out on my 57 and I am not looking forward to reinstalling them. I'll make sure to have lot of rags and cleaner, wife calls me Linus. :005:
I LOVE that sticker in the left rear window! :006:
I want one! (or more) where did you find it?
As you probably have figured, I am a BIG Ed Roth/Rat Fink Guy
I have it painted on my '39 Glove Box:
(https://i.imgur.com/Ox1zrwT.jpg)
Lower valance:
(https://i.imgur.com/PPvwn95.jpg)
...my pickup'
(https://i.imgur.com/EUQ2jpo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RdHlg95.jpg)
and also working up something for the Torino when it's completed.
I also currently having a '31 Ford door done as wall art, should be done soon:
(https://i.imgur.com/oJFh8ik.jpg)
I bought them on EPay, click on link below:
RatFink Decal (https://www.ebay.com/itm/164774702617?_skw=RAT+FINK+STICKER++4in.+DIA.++ED+ROTH++BIG+DADDY&itmmeta=01KG4X9DYYWQF8HWSKBD37Q6YR&hash=item265d566e19:g:Cl4AAOSwKDddbcQd&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA8O7PUuNWmJ%2B%2BUShgI9tQz%2Fr0LA4lV72aSLWqi0Ym9w%2Fg6njt23Cd3I0vfK75E%2BzQSVmLi62N6%2F6pKdj5Vd%2Fl9eq7N6qVdgCuCv%2BPrqpvtESLieRhQE%2FiraYqPc69xfg0iVJnWFwe2jsEermcqwy66ngUBDieoH2090NN4K%2BgTUgzl7NKvGcf%2BDIWUvBmGnQ0WkdQqYqa%2FfCgskx9%2FexGaNSD842URF4EORQE%2FhrRwYd6CqWcc%2B4ASofZkewZa6rNBvavnWrFhE%2BQgvKjXAW4Mw%2FgPsL3RXiOtWKVuK6WT5vJgi4D3VgLUkMc5LrgGLD6%2Bg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9DfpZ2BZw)
RF is #1...always has been...always will be. :005:
Thanks.
Re: the cobra sign.........yesterday I followed a Factory Five semi down I40 for 20 minutes or so. We were heading east.
The Torino is looking awesome. I'm not a big fan of the rat fink stuff, but your artist friend is an awesome painter..
Thanks Rich, not sure where FFR was coming from?
(https://i.imgur.com/jue0Kz3.jpg)
Didn't get much done on the car today as I was working on some other stuff, but did manage to get the new shifter handle and boot installed.
(https://i.imgur.com/95vpt8Z.jpg)
I didn't like the T5 Hurst shifter handle as it was a little too short and the smaller boot didn't fit the trans tunnel opening too well:
(https://i.imgur.com/Xa1qxL0.jpg)
Quote from: CobraJoe on 2026-01-29 12:19Thanks Rich, not sure where FFR was coming from?
(https://i.imgur.com/jue0Kz3.jpg)
[/quote
Maybe the scottsdale autions?
the roof looks great with all the chrome trim, glass and vinyl installed !
It appears yourt carpet has settled some. it also looks stunning in the pics.
Like Hugh, I also dig the sticker.
Thanks, I didn't see the trailer at Scottsdale.
Gunther, I actually machined some spacers out of 1/2" black nylon roundstock and bored out the center for the shifter boot screws to pass through to hold it up to the shape of the rug so it would look presentable.
Returning from SEMA?
No sir, Barrett-Jackson, or do you mean FFR? I believe SEMA is usually in November?
that makes sense ! It seems to have worked very well !
Quote from: CobraJoe on 2026-01-30 07:09Gunther, I actually machined some spacers out of 1/2" black nylon roundstock and bored out the center for the shifter boot screws to pass through to hold it up to the shape of the rug so it would look presentable.
Managed to get the sail panels installed today. The hardest part was tucking it up under the window rubber with all the Butyl in there; just another messy job:
(https://i.imgur.com/SdrS9FZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EWz1SSG.jpg)
The passenger side has a few bubbles in it; it was fine, but the cardboard was too flat and when it bent to the contour of the sail it bubbled. I tried the heat gun to see if they would stick but it didn't work.
I then took it out, heated it up and removed the vinyl. I even contoured the panel and glued it back on but as soon as you stretch the fabric, it would flatten out, so it bubbled when I reinstalled it,
Hopefully the heat and sun will tighten it up???
(https://i.imgur.com/6AquP3S.jpg)
Looking for honest opinions here: Do you guys think this shifter boot looks to big?
(https://i.imgur.com/bc6u8lg.jpg)
I couldn't find something in between the small one and this one, I did find bigger however. I don't know why you would need anything bigger than this though??
Re: shifter boot...not really. Looks stock.
I agree.
Actually the shifter boot works great with the heat seam pattern of the door cards and seat covers !
Thanks guys! It's just my OCD
As you probably have figured, I am a BIG Ed Roth/Rat Fink Guy
Here is a Rat Fink that Ed scribbled out for my son.
Terry
:canada:
That's too cool Terry! :icon_super:
I covered my package tray with the same moonskin material as the headliner and sail panels and installed the speakers:
(https://i.imgur.com/SvIt8eB.jpg)
although the window is a "little" dirty, lol
(https://i.imgur.com/0uokK8F.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CTw7H2J.jpg)
I tried several times to install the rear seat back, but just couldn't do it alone.... sad
That sticker...summed up the reason I would NEVER judge cars at a show. Who am I to tell someone their car is not correct?
I had my F-1 in a car show in Vancouver and Ed Roth was set up across the aisle signing autographs. I asked him if he could sign my truck, he replied 'bring it over', and would not get out of his lawn chair. I asked him again and got the same reply, so I lifted the hood, spun my air cleaner off and took the cover over to him. He signed it "For a Good Time 'Big Daddy' Roth." It is now on the ceiling of my shop.
Terry
:canada:
I ordered 4 feet of black stiched-windlace online to fill in the gap between the rear interior quarter panels and the pinch weld-windlace in the B-pillar:
(https://i.imgur.com/Hq3uHvM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0syXIpO.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/LrFl0oY.jpg)
I didn't like it as it only had about a 1/2" of material to tuck in the panels and it was only single stitched:
(https://i.imgur.com/t025ibw.jpg)
...so I went and see my local upholsterer and asked him if ho could make up some that was 1-1/2" wide after the rope and if he could double stich it; he said no problem and made it while I waited. Best $20 I ever spent:
(https://i.imgur.com/8PNx0mj.jpg)
It tucked in much better and finished it off:
(https://i.imgur.com/4SMXhjI.jpg)
Also managed to get the back seat squared away; sometimes you just need to walk away....
(https://i.imgur.com/obCPRHc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4yidmIs.jpg)
So I bought this about a few years ago for a Mustang project, but never used it:
It's a NOS Ford Litter Basket for Fairlane, Mustang, Galaxie or Torino.
(https://i.imgur.com/xXje81v.jpg)
I thought it was neat, little, novelty item so I decided to install it on my car. Everything was there, including the instruction:
(https://i.imgur.com/TqvC53O.jpg)
I couldn't mount it directly under the ashtray because of the "hump" from the way the rug was stored, so I moved it closer to the passenger side. The only problem is that it doesn't close all the way, it sticks out about 3/4" because of the AC evaporator. If I ever change the rug, I'll center it.
Closed:
(https://i.imgur.com/c9ncNp6.jpg)
Open:
(https://i.imgur.com/TIUHsvE.jpg)
Mounting does not require drilling any holes, pretty neat IMO
(https://i.imgur.com/din8kSg.jpg)
Also got my mats in; wasn't sure if I was going to like them, but they're not bad:
(https://i.imgur.com/eh07HcK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NymxWdy.jpg)
I made my windlace, but like the rest of my upholstery, NO stitching at all. (seats were not recovered, just left original) I just used contact cement being careful not to get it on the foam cord. I've never had a problem with it.
What's left to do?
Looks good...both the bucket and the mats! Coming along. Little things make the difference! :003:
Thanks, still working on the braking system; pedal travels 6" and stops an inch from the floor after gravity bleeding, conventional bleeding, power bleeding ass well as reverse pressure bleeding. No change, so I ordered a 10 psi residual pressure valve for the rear drums.
Also still need to set timing, adjust carb, basically tune it, but it's been so cold here, I don't want to keep the shop door open.
After that, tidy up the ignition wires, pull the front end apart and check everything. When I bought it, the front was converted to Willwood Disc brakes, and as was everything else that was done on the car by the OG owner, things were loose.
After that some minor wiring and general clean up and then hopefully a test drive if the weather ever breaks, 6" snow tonight into tomorrow. bawl
That's one main reason I left Mass.
I'm sending a PM
I have been waiting on my rear arm rests from AutoKrafters for over a year now, so I decided to give them a call. They told me they have been on backorder for close to 2 years and that they get them from Dennis Carpenter and he gets them from China. They also said they had no idea when or if they would become available.
(https://i.imgur.com/QZYGifQ.png)
So I called a buddy of mine in PA and asked if he had a good set and he sent me these beautiful pieces with hardware for $40 shipped. I sprayed them down, scrubbed them and placed them in front of the woodstove to dry.
(https://i.imgur.com/vv5C3w6.jpg)
Later , I scuffed them and sprayed a light tack coat of SEM flexible black
(https://i.imgur.com/N65pnud.jpg)
After they set up, a couple of quick coats gave me the desired results:
(https://i.imgur.com/sslcPmw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kIrtiUf.jpg)
I let them dry overnight and installed them today:
(https://i.imgur.com/PSmH1ad.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jYb8mBx.jpg)
A little shiny, but I think a rub with some compound down the road will make them look more original; I'm just happy to get the interior finished!
Question...would using a satin black have cut down on the shine perhaps?
They do look nice though...and saved how much by cancelling the order? :003:
Problem is I only had that black, it's the one I used for the seat belts, I think the gloss is because the vinyl is so smooth. I think it will dull, as it got dull where I rubbed it with my finger, just to fresh to do now.
Money wise? At $55 each plus tax and shipping? Probably would have been $150
Yea...that's a win-win!
Looking good...gonna turn a head or two when you get it out and go to a show 'n shine or a cruise-in! :003:
Well, I finally got the car tuned yesterday; I set the timing and got the carb adjusted. I must say, she sounds a lot better.
Now that I have it set, I was able to do something with these ignition wires...
(https://i.imgur.com/OdRUdck.jpg)
I loomed and re-routed them to something that looks a little better, this allowed me to cut them to size and remove the crimped ends and re-install them on the shortened wires. They are not perfect, but I think they at least look a lot neater:
(https://i.imgur.com/SKanysz.jpg)
I went yellow silicone to stay with that "Vintage" look.
It was one of the first things we did "back in the day" when we were kids, lol.
(https://i.imgur.com/6WMPtxn.jpg)
I still need to re-bleed the back brakes as I installed a 10psi residual valve, but I need to wait for my buddy to give me a hand, so...
I figured it was time to start cleaning her up.
I started with the engine compartment and undersides:
(https://i.imgur.com/xUP1ryS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0hRpM1n.jpg)
After lunch I'll start cleaning up and waxing the body, polishing the wheels and top etc...
The wires look as good as they can I think.
Undercarriage looks too nice to drive! LOL!!! :006:
Thanks Hugh, got the brakes bled and got a coat of wax on her. A couple loose ends to tie up and then wait for weather to break so I can go for a test ride...
(https://i.imgur.com/eZl68M2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/C1Azey3.jpg)
Man oh man does she look sweet! I like the way you did the stripes too. Highlights that sharp belt-line.
REALLY REALLY pretty! You got done in a few days what would now take me a few months! Hopefully you'll get some nice driving weather soon. I's gonna be cooler here later this week, but it's been in the 70's for most of the past few weeks. This past Saturday, we had the biggest first-Saturday-of-the-month-cruise-in that I've seen in 4 or 5 years.
Thanks guys, but I don't think I'll be test driving until April the way things are going here with the weather....
(https://i.imgur.com/TLwucbk.jpg)
Just an amazing job of restoring that beautiful car. Thanks for sharing your progress over the past months. I always looked forward to seeing the next steps as you progressed and everything that was done was first class professional.
Great Job,
Dave
Thank you so much Dave, it actually, really means a lot to me that you guys approve!
Quote from: oldave57 on 2026-02-10 07:59Just an amazing job of restoring that beautiful car. Thanks for sharing your progress over the past months. I always looked forward to seeing the next steps as you progressed and everything that was done was first class professional.
Great Job,
Dave
X2!
Lynn
Thank You!!!
CJ, Your car looks great, a quality build!
Thanks guys! :icon_super:
I know that there was a trim piece that went between the Package Tray and Sail Panel on the Sport Roof but couldn't find any pics on a Formal Roof, but I know I didn't like the open space:
(https://i.imgur.com/jxa5JBJ.jpg)
So, after some searching, I found this stuff at my local Lowes:
(https://i.imgur.com/eZcdFs2.jpg)
It looks like it should work:
(https://i.imgur.com/McHcZ17.jpg)
I cut it to length, hit it with a scuff pad and painted it with Trim Black and gave it shot...
(https://i.imgur.com/Pr6Mn2U.jpg)
I have plenty left over, so I might try cutting the back side and heating a piece up to go up to the back window down the road, but for now, I think it is acceptable.
For anyone interested, this is the description on the product, it was $3.48 for an 8' piece:
(https://i.imgur.com/ECzTCzj.jpg?1)
We have to be good at thinking outside the box. Yeah, it looks good!
Well, she moved under her own power today for the first time! I drove it off the lift and moved it outside so that the '62 could go on the lift:
(https://i.imgur.com/svHHMFF.jpg)
As much as I wanted to take it for a spin, the roads are too wet and salt covered, so I washed it, trickle charged the battery and covered it:
(https://i.imgur.com/6MnNTQc.jpg)
With our forecast for Sunday, I doubt I'll be test driving it anytime soon
(https://i.imgur.com/GrTwsd3.jpg)
...and on top of 18-24" of snow, were expecting winds in the dangerous category:
(https://i.imgur.com/zgoproi.jpg)
With high winds and wet, heavy snow, I'm sure we'll have some major power outages too.
At least it's not FIRES!!! It's finally settling down a bit, but for 2 weeks we had 1-2 new fires starting around Amarillo every day. Burnt areas in every direction around Amarillo. I haven't heard about the Oklahoma fires today...hopefully they're getting a handle on them too.
We're looking at a high of 43* tomorrow...dry as a bone...roads are bare and salt free.
Car is beautiful, Joe.
Thank you Tom!
Jackpot! 30" Freaking inches for us!
(https://i.imgur.com/Da33Imx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/852VLdh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/N4WmDig.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zoeheqr.jpg)
OUCH! You've been busy shoveling and plowing.
The last winter I spent there I spent hours out on the street shoveling out my wife's '63 Galaxie Convert. Heavy wet stuff and had to walk around to the yard to dump each shovel. The city plows had made one pass on the street and had pretty much buried her car with snow, slush and ice. I finally got done and went in for coffee and a change of clothes. Then I heard the noise...........the snow plow making another pass. yep, buried it again.
It's supposed to be 84 here tomorrow.........not a typo.
We'll be 66...about double what we were today.
Joe...you know...not supposed to be using that shovel on snow as you become fine wine...LOL!!! :003:
I am enjoying a balmy 23 this morning (0630), might get up to 50 today.....
Final total 37"
:pottytrain5:
Be careful in that snow Joe.........I seem to remember a few years back when you broke an ankle or leg in snow. Are you plowing in the Bronco?
Yes sir, and trust me, after two years of doctors and re-hab, I am extremely careful!
Quote from: CobraJoe on 2026-02-24 08:48Yes sir, and trust me, after two years of doctors and re-hab, I am extremely careful!
Me too...so careful that I don't mess with it. I let the 18-24 inches we generally get clear itself off with help from the sun. I shoveled my last snow probably 8-9 years ago. Took me well over a week to get my right shoulder to stop screaming curse words :092: at me!
Damn, 83 in Mesa today. I'm through with snow.
Okay, so a while back I had decided I wanted to do the "Shelby Drop" on my '68 but didn't want to drill another set of holes in the shock towers, so, I had ordered a set of SPC upper control arms. They have been sitting on the shelf for about 5 weeks waiting to be installed. For those who aren't familiar with them, they are fully adjustable and offer ±3° Improved Caster as well as Camber settings that can be set to 0°, -1°, or -2° for superior cornering.
yesterday I finally got the Corvette off the lift and was able to get the Torino back on...
(https://i.imgur.com/62sVNIn.jpg)
Their arms offer three factory setting holes for camber... 0* -1* or -2*
(https://i.imgur.com/UBRF3Fr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2LA4PrK.jpg)
I chose -1* and installed the ball joints and painted them...
(https://i.imgur.com/FjkTX72.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5mcnoSU.jpg)
They are a lot nicer than the OG arms:
(https://i.imgur.com/LXkUNHi.jpg)
This was my original setup; I never really liked the grey Willwood calipers,
(https://i.imgur.com/1qzAubM.jpg)
...so I opted to paint them red while I had it apart:
(https://i.imgur.com/xskmtor.jpg)
All installed....
(https://i.imgur.com/CTsuPst.jpg)
...and ride height adjusted:
(https://i.imgur.com/8ao2UhB.jpg)
Test ride seemed much better as far as wheel returning to center and easy turning , so I'm happy. Hopefully I can get it on my buddies alignment machine and get it dialed in.
Looking slick! Getting closer to summer driving! :burnout:
Well I put it on the trailer and brought it to my buddy's shop so I could do an alignment on it Saturday.
(https://i.imgur.com/Pl2Hqi9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/otb3hw3.jpg)
It went pretty easy with the adjustable struts and the Dropped upper control arms; as I was able to get:
CAMBER: -1/2
CASTER: +2*
TOE: 1/16"
and...................did you drive it?
Not really, as it's staying to fix a few minor things.
While it's there, he is going to correct a couple of spots that need to be sanded and buffed. If you look closely, you can see the green tape spots that he will address, nothing major but he wants to address it.
(https://i.imgur.com/laTbGjV.png)
I have taken it for a few short trips as I was adjusting the new carburetor and it handled nice before the alignment, curious to drive it when I get it back!
DAMN! That is a fine looking automobile sir!!! :003:
Thank you kind sir!
Quote from: mustang6984 on 2026-04-06 13:03DAMN! That is a fine looking automobile sir!!! :003:
2X and the stance is perfect!
Thanks again!
New stance looks great !
Like other members have said before, she's a real beauty !
Well worth all the work and money !
Thanks DJ: I was with your buddy Saturday for a B-Day party for John Viera. He looks good!
thx so much for the update, Joe. Good news ! how was the weather, anybody taking out their E-codes ?
Its still winter in Montana.
It was nice Saturday, he actually showed up in his '57, I brought my Torino and there were some other Hot Rods their too.
Joe, thx for the update! It makes me really happy to know that he took out his E code !!!! :001:
He is already 85 yo and not so inclined to using the modern internet. It has become more difficult for senior people to keep up with modern technology.
But it's till the same to keep an old car running, like back in 57.... :003:
Great to hear that you had nice weather and were able to take out your cars.
Was this the first longer trip for yur 68 ?
Yes sir, looks like I need to pull the rear out as it is whining in 4-5 gear. bawl
Maybe it was just your passenger, lol
Oh well, two steps forward, one back, and rewind and replay...
I am sure you checked the driveshaft/pinion angle and yoke play....?!
Yes, as soon as I can get the '55 off the lift, and am going to look into it again...
Joe, I really like your resto of the 68 GT. Now I have ?, do you have any idea of the dealer cost of the GT in 68? The reason I ask is that in 68, I bought a 68 Galaxy XL fastback 2dr hardtop. It had everything except air. 390 C6 bucket seats ect. The dealer price was $3980.00. I still have all the paper work from when I bought it. Just wondering of the price difference. As you know times have really changed, Not long ago I looked at a new zero turn lawn mower and they wanted over $5000.00 for it.
Thanks Alvin, and I actually do; here's my window sticker:
(https://i.imgur.com/QP9rdat.jpg)
Gee...came from about 60 miles or so south of me.
I took it to a friends B-Day party (a BIG Ford guy) a few weeks back and had a slight vibration after 75 mph and a gear whine. I found the car is geared to low with the close ratio 5 speed so I am going to swap out the 4:11's for 3:50's anyways. Other than that, she ran fine, very happy with it.
I adjusted the driveline angle and it is slightly better, but I think I need to shim the rear axle. I ordered some shims and will try that when they come in. Unfortunately, the weather has kinda sucked around here lately so not a lot of chances to use it, although the wife and I did take it for ice cream last night (thank God for heat!).
I also took it to a local car cruise Friday night and people seemed to like it.
I do have a new set of gears in the shop to install and will probably start that some time tomorrow.
I'll keep you posted.
Joe
Okay, so I swapped out the 4:11's with a new set of Richmond 3:50's from Speedway and find the drivability much better w/ the close ratio T5.
Also installed a 2.5* shim:
(https://i.imgur.com/xYvJSj1.jpg)
...and the driveline angle is now within range:
(https://i.imgur.com/f3fSHpy.png)
I took it out on the highway and @80 the vibration is gone.
The little things...can make such BIG differences eh?
:occasion14:
At 80............I didn't think Mass. had highways at that high of a speed limit, lol.
You seem to have nailed the cause of the little irritants pretty quickly. Good on you, now if gas prices go back to where they were, you can drive it to Texas.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2026-05-07 17:23At 80............I didn't think Mass. had highways at that high of a speed limit, lol.
You seem to have nailed the cause of the little irritants pretty quickly. Good on you, now if gas prices go back to where they were, you can drive it to Texas.
By way of Branson MO! There are pork loin steaks in the freezer, a BBQ on the porch and Guinness in the fridge! :003:
Texas??? Missouri? What do you guys think, that I'm made out of money??
:003:
Quote from: CobraJoe on 2026-05-08 07:55Texas??? Missouri? What do you guys think, that I'm made out of money??
:003:
That you are an adventurous spirit looking to travel and explore the roads of the country in that fine steed, traveling Rt. 66! :burnout:
(Okay...so my place is a slight detour off of the Mother Road...but...not much.)
I'm doing a rt 66 related car show tomorrow in Adrian Tx................the rt66 halfway point.
Should be a good day for it!
I...will be doing chores around the house. :-\ >:( :'(