I started this a while back on a couple of other forums and thought maybe I should post it here also.
PLEASE let me know if it's not appropriate and if I should take it down.
I'll drag the posts over a few at a time until it's caught up.
As some of you know, I picked up this rust-free (pretty rare for New England) '68 GT. It was a Las Vegas car, so it has the usual cooked topsides (including the dash pad), but is a very solid car.
It's a stock rebuilt 302 w/a C4 but I am going to build it as 347 stroker w/ either a toploader or T5. The guy who started working on it installed all new front suspension with Wilwood power disc brakes. He also had the seats reupholstered and it came with new door panels, new rug, visors and a headliner.
(https://i.imgur.com/ncdXziE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EK1Udx9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cZqRqDL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BIbrGSL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jw1BYKR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OUpQa86.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wJv9v2f.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7yrUjYN.jpg)
My plan for the Torino are a full Resto, but not a show car, it will be a driver.
Currently have a stroked 302 so I can keep it somewhat original. It made 455 ft. lbs. of torque and 461 hp on the dyno.
(https://i.imgur.com/dFnpJxF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5kjgAJv.jpg)
Started to strip it back down to bare metal:
(https://i.imgur.com/PRN65gT.jpg)
This Harbor Freight Metal Surfacer makes short work of it:
(https://i.imgur.com/RHMVPR1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/W238aIF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RGh2kjq.jpg)
I think it's cool to see something besides a 57 occasionally as long as its a Ford product, what's that tool with the brush called.
I'm sure no one will have a problem with watching that build. Cool looking car.
Thanks guys.
The tool is from Harbor Freight and it's called a "Surface Conditioning Tool"
(https://i.imgur.com/hW1ZK6c.jpg)
I have one as well. Nice tool. Wish I had one when I stripped the Courier!
I think it is fine to post this here Joe. Car looks to be a real solid platform. Even has all the letters on the hood...that is rare!
Hope to see more!
Forward progress....
(https://i.imgur.com/1FYLapd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9fQ51mr.jpg)
I am amazed that there is no rot on this car; quarter panels are usually the first place to rot...
(https://i.imgur.com/OtrfQdw.jpg)
That is a beautiful car and totally appropriate for this website (after all it will be 57 years old in '25). Having a new interior is a big head start but it looks like you have had that paint stripping tool in your hands for quite a few hours (body looks amazing). Keep us posted on progress. Are you planning to paint the same color or something different? Either way it's gonna be a showstopper.
Another hooray! for Harbor Freight. They didn't have that tool when I started stripping mine almost 20 years ago. That said, I'm not sure I could have done my car without Harbor Freight. I certainly couldn't have bought major brands stuff I needed........power tools, welders, compressors,jacks, etc etc. Actually, I AM SURE,.........I never would have got it finished. There's just so many tools you need to restore a car 100%, and a normal person would have built that stuff up over the years, but if you're like I was and doing it for the first time, it seems like everytime you turn around another tool is needed. I had one rollaway and chest 20 years ago. I nw have 5, and a rack of power tools.
The OG color is Royal Burgundy, same "X" paint code as the 65-66 Mustang, except it was called Vintage Burgundy in 1965.
I have two red cars already and I am going with Medowlark Yellow, code "W", as it was the color of my Dad's car back in the day:(I was 14)
I will put the GT stripe back on, only painted black instead of vinyl and add the optional GT hood scoop.
(https://i.imgur.com/Qu7nlGQ.png)
It amazes me that there is so much desert sand under the moldings . Here's when I pulled the back window:
(https://i.imgur.com/LqrII8u.jpg)
This stuff is in every nook and cranny of the car.
(https://i.imgur.com/UTCveFa.jpg)
Nice color. Good choice.
Yea...sand gets into EVERYTHING! But you are right about the condition of the body being good. That tool is a life saver!
Oh yea...what is the frame with the wheels/tires and no body for? Inquiring minds (mine anyhow) need to know.
'72 Chevelle I was restoring for the guy who is going to paint my Torino.
The sun baked paint/rust on the top of the hood and trunk were too much for the stripper so they got media blasted:
(https://i.imgur.com/cZqRqDL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KHEnjaa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/F1hidrg.jpg)
Sandblasting also makes it easier to clean up the undersides with all the reinforcements.
(https://i.imgur.com/dvkNUXy.jpg)
The plan was to change this from an Auto to a manual 5 speed. Had a friend down the Cape who had a T-5 setup for sale so I took a ride:
(https://i.imgur.com/Pu31yar.jpg)
When I got there, it was exactly what i needed; he asked me what I was going to do w/ the motor so i told him I was selling the engine and tranny. It just so happened he needed a 1968 block to register a Mustang . so i sold it to him for a little more than the cost of the tranny, bell housing, fork, etc., so....
I headed home and pulled the nose off the car and yanked the engine & tranny.
(https://i.imgur.com/FkybKis.jpg)
He picked up the motor, but didn't want the C4, so I put it on Marketplace...
I can't believe it sold in one day :003:
(https://i.imgur.com/8ZE2jxY.jpg)
Excellent choice on the color. I got burgundied-out years ago. That's not a lot of "sand" if you live in Texas. We deal with the Texas silt on a daily basis. Dry climate, but windy = always dusting!
When I got my '57 home 12 years ago it was FULL of sandy dirt. The cowl was half full of the stuff and it was even inside of the speedometer. I bought the car from a guy in Michigan, it was built at the Kansas City plant and it spent a long time in Wyoming (I was told). I think it spent a lot of time in a "barn".
Joe, I love that '68 it is one of my favorite Fords. I love FE's so that is a perfect "wrapper"!
Thank you Lynn; I've always loved them too.
I really wanted to go Big Block, but a 428 was just too expensive and would have taken a lot of the "drivability" out of the car. It was important to me to have a nice "driver" for a change.
Mine was from The Kansas city plant too:
(https://i.imgur.com/t1EPD57.jpg)
I must say I was pleasantly surprised that the car had never been hit and still had the factory assembly line chalk marks:
(https://i.imgur.com/dfMjEVe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5wqKey0.jpg)
Spent some time cleaning up the wheel well area and got the splash guards off and sandblasted.
(https://i.imgur.com/N2lvCA9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TkMzmm1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MY2IAQX.jpg)
Got the old rubber and staples off and coated everything with 3M Body Schutz. Used this product for many years and like the finish it leaves. It's also paintable.
(https://i.imgur.com/LYbfsT7.jpg)
I'll order the new rubbers and staples down the road, still plenty to do before that
(https://i.imgur.com/nPXgjMb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sTgGu8b.jpg)
Pulled the gas tank because it had been repaired and it made it easier to clean up the area:
(https://i.imgur.com/LgsFWVL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5ou5dnO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0cJcZ5z.jpg)
I also opted to pull the 8" out for easier access; I will be replacing it with a 9" down the road, unfortunately it's in Pennsylvania, so I just need to go to PA to pick it up: :walk:
(https://i.imgur.com/hmJOd1d.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/w0CEHVg.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IJpXJVv.jpg)
Sure nice working on such a solid, rust free car, isn`t it? Back in 1992, I bought a 1969 Cobra fastback, R code auto with AC. I bought the car in California, but it still had the owners Nevada license plates on it, which he let me drive it back home with. He was from Las Vegas, but was working at Ford Power Parts, which is where I found the car for sale, in the FPP parking lot. I had gone down to So. Cal to watch the 1992 NHRA Winternationals, and was not looking to buy a car, but the car was so solid, and complete, that I couldn`t NOT buy it. So the following Friday, after work, I got a 1 way flight to LAX, met the owner, did the paper work, and headed North for the 1,000+ mile drive up the J5 back into Canada. Like your 68, the paint was badly weathered, and all the window rubbers were rock hard and crumbling, but when I put the car on the lift at work, the undercarriage and floors were were 100 % perfect, and a wipe with a wet rag, showed that the paint on the floors were like new. My Canadian eyes couldn`t believe how good a 23 year old car could be, considering most 69s at home would be full of rust and holes, assuming they were still roadworthy.
Yeah, unfortunately they are few and far between.
Like you, I have neve seen anything like it before. If I ever am looking for a vehicle again, I will start in Vegas.
Now it's time to clean up the underside:
(https://i.imgur.com/WoCslHR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gGnVVb3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XkJfV0i.jpg)
It cleaned up really nice; it still amazes me how nice the metal on this car is. On the 65 years I've spent in this God forsaken state, I have never ever come across a 60's car that didn't have any rot, that includes owning them in the mid 70's!
(https://i.imgur.com/b1US6pb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MozzjIQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/74yAQBu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KYYjCJK.jpg)
Got most of the undersides with 3M Body Schutz:
(https://i.imgur.com/TTAR1hO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DhaaB4K.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3L5lJjL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8U67fwb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8HLvC1T.jpg)
Neighbour down the street has one parked in his vineyard. Not sure if it's a GT or not, didn't want to get too much more into his property.
Hard to say from the pics, looks like the grill emblem is missing.
Pretty cool though!
I had ordered a set of rear springs and hangers because these were the originals so, while it was apart, I figured now was the time to put them in:
(https://i.imgur.com/bvXaxpx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vgTxWSg.jpg)
Little difference in ride height, hopefully it settles:
(https://i.imgur.com/1FYLapd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jUZpTeq.jpg)
Had some Kilmat leftover from another project, so took the nylon cup brush to the floor got it put down
(https://i.imgur.com/O3jIpEw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/a9H5nOt.jpg)
Got the dash, steering column & pedal box pulled out so I can start the manual changeover:
(https://i.imgur.com/SzurIAj.jpg)
I couldn't stand the thought off having an Automatic column with the shifter handle pulled, so purchased a '68 Mustang column. It'll have to be shortened, but at least it will look correct.
(https://i.imgur.com/bETFsLL.jpg)
Also purchased a manual pedal box from a forum member:
(https://i.imgur.com/LRp70La.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eXYKzJl.jpg)
Also going to need to do something with the instrument cluster as it's a little rusty, but I'll work on that tomorrow:
(https://i.imgur.com/OAQYhOw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iQGSytl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UPsoxbH.jpg)
Just a LITTLE rusty! Yikes!
Yeah, I would think it's because it was a Las Vegas car with factory AC, so I'm assuming from condensation???
Just curious how the cowl and firewall area are. My other 69 Cobra fastback, had great outer body sheet metal, trunk pan, and the passenger side front, and both rear floor pans, BUT, it sat outside for several years before I bought it, and the drivers floor pan under the pedals was rotted out, and when I gave the firewall a good look, it was badly rusted thru . Looks like while sitting outside, water sat in the inner cowl long enough to rust thru the cowl, then the water was soaked into the firewall sound deadener pad, and held that moisture to the point that it had several rust holes thru the firewall, and had other areas paper thin. When I put a trouble light under the dash, and turned of the lights in the garage, much of the drivers side firewall let the light thru as if it was a honeycomb. Between all that, plus the transmission tunnel had been badly butchered for a Vertical Gate shifter, and not being much of a fabricator or welder, plus didn`t have enough garage space for the Cobra as well as my race car, I reluctantly sold it. To repair the cowl,firewall and floor pan rust properly, would have been a major undertaking. It really is too bad, as it was a very cool car, I still have the Ford "History 999" report that I requested from FoMoCo in the mid 90s. It was a 6 digit special order DSO, with a 428 Cobra Jet,Ram Air, 4 speed, bench seat, manual steering and brakes, with the only options being the factory tachometer, Rim Blow 3 spoke steering wheel, 3.50 Traction Lok rearend, deluxe seat belts, and a AM Radio with a rear speaker. The special order was due to the color, it had been painted Acapulco Blue, which was not a Fairlane/Torino/Cobra normally available , it was a Mustang color, the only darkish Blue shown in the 69 Fairlane/Torino brochures was Presidential Blue, which is a darker shade. It was a real "Plain Jane" car that a buddy bought new, and had painted steel wheels with dog dish hubcaps. He offered the car to me, less engine and transmission, back in 1977, for $350.00(!), but I was already racing my 66 Fairlane GTA, and didn`t think it made sense to buy a bigger, heavier car of the same chassis. He sold it to another guy, then it traded hands a couple more times, before somebody blew up the 428 that had been installed in 1978 or 79, and then sat outside, rotting away. I sold it to a guy on Vancouver Island in the 90s, no idea what he ever did with the car.
Shame, it would be worth something today $$$$.
Cowl, firewall, floor, etc..., all solid. I really do think the constant running of AC in that scorching climates really caused condensation to settle on the dash.
(https://i.imgur.com/XSTiUXL.jpg)
I got it done today; threw it in the sandblaster, then bead blasted and painted it. My local parts guy even had the voltage regulator for it, thought for sure I was going to have to find one online.
I put it back together, but I might go the Digital Dakota route down the road??
(https://i.imgur.com/63PuE62.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3DswTrw.jpg)
I even had some baby blue paint lol...
(https://i.imgur.com/FGDSSR8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TYxeqEu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QsI65nj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VJFf1Q3.jpg)
That hot dry climate is also hell on interiors.
You're moving right along on this project. Sure wish I could still do that stuff.
Quote from: CobraJoe on 2025-01-03 18:39Shame, it would be worth something today $$$$.
Cowl, firewall, floor, etc..., all solid. I really do think the constant running of AC in that scorching climates really caused condensation to settle on the dash.
(https://i.imgur.com/XSTiUXL.jpg)
given the condition of everything else that is the only way water could get in there and rust it.
Looks good now. Nice work Paisano!
Makes sense to me.
I would think that in a dry climate condensation would be unlikely to form unless the dew point is really over 40 degrees... just a guess. I am familiar with condensation, here it is almost constant. My house central air can produce gallons overnight. I had to install a window unit in my shop to stop surface rust when I built my engine.
What else do you think may have caused the rust in the dash only?
I mean there is ZERO rust in the window frame, or any where's else for that matter. I assume these pieces were unpainted from the factory, but I would think that would only cause a light surface rust???
That is a great question.I would have offered an alternate hypothesis if I had one.... To me it almost looks like a chemical attack of some kind :icon_scratch:
Or maybe it had a leaking or missing windshield, although if that was the case, you would think the floors would be bad. Certainly odd.
I got my Birthday present to myself today:
(https://i.imgur.com/oFV8L9U.jpg)
Tomorrow I need to give some thought to this auto/manual column crap....
(https://i.imgur.com/gPXfHD4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8m8XNc5.jpg)
This looks to be pretty straight forward from what I can see; just gut up the Mustang column and shorten it a few inches. Then mix and match the two column internals.
We'll see how it goes....
The pedal box is from a Fairlane/Torino so it should be a bolt in.
I also got the Z-bar and pivot for a small block, so just need to make the hole in the firewall
(https://i.imgur.com/OtPqRKO.jpg)
I recently swapped out the 4spd to a 5spd in my 65 Mustang, tried it with the original manual clutch linkage and could barely drive the thing it was so damn stiff, so I did some research and ended up going with a hydraulic set up. I bought a kit from Daze Cars he makes a bracket that mounts to the side of the T5 for the slave cylinder with a rod that attaches to the factory fork for the T5 bellhousing then you mount a Willwood clutch M/S to the firewall with a adjustable rod to the clutch pedal, fired it up took it for a drive and it was like night and day it was like driving a modern car super smooth no slop or binding.
Thanks, good to know.
Daze clutch setup (https://www.dazecars.com/dazed/Test7T5.html)
I used a Malwood under dash master cylinder/TO bearing, pretty slick...
https://www.malwoodusa.com/
I wanted the lever gone so it would look like a manual column/car.
It really wasn't that bad of a job, although I wish I had taken more pics , it was one of those things that once i started, I completely spaced it out.
Either way, it got done, Column & pedal box are in , although I didn't drill the hole or install the Z-bar stuff.
(https://i.imgur.com/vvM46iZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Tcrlqfo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/I2fAi6R.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NiQeNGG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3iXg9s8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3rqtND1.jpg)
Progress is starting to slow down a little, but I did get a "gift" from UPS Saturday:
(https://i.imgur.com/CGCHaZJ.jpg)
Well, got the engine compartment all stripped, now I just need to get it to the body shop to get these dents filled and the bare metal epoxied.
Also, need to get a little tug on the engine crossmember, looks like some one hit something they shouldn't have. Minor damage and an easy fix:
(https://i.imgur.com/YkfH9Ue.jpg)
Hopefully he can take it this weekend.
link to Malwood upgrade:
https://www.malwoodusa.com/ford/1968-71-torino-fairlane-hydraulic-master-cylinder-clutch-pedal-kit-billet-reservoir/
I like that late "Christmas gift" from Santa...er ah..UPS! Sweet!
Thanks Gary, much appreciated.
Went over there yesterday afternoon and we got her bolted down to the frame machine to give the engine cradle/crossmember a little pull"
(https://i.imgur.com/Yks40QM.jpg)
Getting it ready for the pull:
(https://i.imgur.com/rksHxlF.jpg)
All clamped and ready to go:
(https://i.imgur.com/QaUgejQ.jpg)
One little tug and it was back to normal; it took longer to set it up, lol:
(https://i.imgur.com/uwADHsH.jpg)
That crossmember under the engine on the Fairlanes often gets damaged, from people jacking the front of the car with it, Mustangs and Cougars do not have a welded in crossmember like that, the entire front chassis, although similar looking with the shock towers, and very different between the 66-69 Fairlane/Torino/Comet and the 67-70 Mustang/Cougar, including the firewall, motor mount design, transmission crossmember, even how the shock towers, inner fender panels and firewall are connected together. The 67-70 Mustangs and Cougars use bolted in braces to tie the top of the shock tower to the firewall, while the 66-69 Fairlane platform has reinforcements from the top of the inner fenders (below the front fenders), that tie into the firewall, so no braces like the Mustang. And the earlier (62 thru 65 Fairlane and 62-63 Mercury Meteor), are totally different in design. 60 thru 65 Falcon, Comets, and 65-66 Mustangs are different again.
Concerning the clutch linkage systems, I currently have 4 stickshift Fords, my 59 has the factory style mechanical clutch linkage, both my trucks have hydraulic, 1 with a slave cylinder, the other has a hydraulic throwout bearing, and my 78 Fairmont drag car has the factory style FOX body clutch cable setup. Of them all, I prefer the operation and "feel" of the mechanical linkage, plus no chances of leaks, having to bleed the system, or damaging it due to heat from headers or exhaust. If it was my car, and since you already have all the factory mechanical clutch linkage, that is what I would be using. I know quite a few guys that had troubles with the aftermarket hydraulic setups, from getting the geometry correct, the bearing to pressure plate finger spacing right, routing the hydraulic line to avoid heat and contact with the various engine compartment obstructions. Not to mention leaks. A buddy used the McLeod hydraulic throw out bearing his his 429 powered Cobra replica, with a Toploader 4 speed, and he had it apart several times because the bearing assembly leaked the fluid out, and the clutch wouldn`t disengage. When possible, I like to use the system that the Ford engineers designed, and has a 50 + year history of working well. IF the pedal is stiff, there is usually a reason, like the upper clutch pedal pivot bushings binding or egg shaped from decades of use, or other sources of binding or lack of lubrication.
I always found it curious the interchangeability of so many Ford parts but how different the Mustang and Fairlane chassis.
You sure don't waste any time getting things done that's for sure!
Quote from: 57chero on 2025-01-08 11:35You sure don't waste any time getting things done that's for sure!
You sure you didn't start this 5 years ago??? (That's how long it would take me to get this far...) Great job!
Lynn........He does not sleep!
We can sleep when we are dead! :003:
I have been working on my SVO Mustang too. Until I get some more green in my jeans I can't do things I need/want to do on the Fairlane, so I busy myself with the SVO. Cold as it is.
Thanks guys; I definitely want to use the factory linkage if I can.
As far as getting stuff done, been that way my whole life, I guess it comes from being self employed and a good work ethic instilled in me from my dad.
Progress will slow down now, as it is out of my hands and I have been gone for almost a week with some friends, including the shop owner. We all went to Mecum in Kissimmee, great time, but it was a little cold. Either way, we all had a great time!
No new "toy" on your signature list? Couple of good deals from the small parts I've watched....
No, those are a little "Too Rich" for my blood, although I saw a beautifully restored 1968 Mustang Fastback w/a 428 in Highland Green that I wouldn't have minded owning. It was a paid trip to look at a '55 Corvette for a friend.
Well it got moved over to the other side of the shop. They got some rust converter on the roof and the decklid to get into some of the pits. After they will DA and start bodyworking it. Looks like they picked out some of the small dents too.
(https://i.imgur.com/2FHvARL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DbQ86lH.jpg)
Looks good. Moving along at warp speed 5!
Getting the panels and the body DA'd so they can epoxy coat everything:
(https://i.imgur.com/L99SFgU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OzDNbqz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5pW6pKg.jpg)
Making great progress! My hats off to bodyman, all those hours of sanding and blocking must be sooo tedious. The sheet metal looks very nice, so nice not having to be dealing with rusted out parts. Curious how your hood is, reason that I am asking, is that both my 69 Cobra fastbacks, had cracks/splits, in the center of the hood peak, near the front. Both mine were Ram Air R code cars, so maybe the large holes under the hood scoops in the hoods was a contributing factor with mine.Please keep us posted, seeing a big project going forward at such a good pace is inspiring.
Will do, and thanks!
As far as the hood, it's very good with the exception of some pitting from the sun baked surface rust.
Looking forward to getting the body done!
It's very nice to see a body shop getting on it right away. Too many stories of "body shop jail" Thanks for keeping us posted. Everything is looking first class.
Well, they have it all in epoxy, one step closer:
(https://i.imgur.com/g2JI9zm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LG9FuJB.jpg)
very very nice.
Thanks Rich!
Making great progress!
Thanks, they started fitting panels today....
(https://i.imgur.com/hdEQjFi.jpg)
gaps are looking good:
(https://i.imgur.com/1n8foQd.jpg)
Then hopefully start the bodywork. :snoopy2:
AHHHHH, can only dream of starting with one that clean.....nice work Joe, doin it right!
Thank you, I was extremely lucky!
Being that lucky...oughtta go buy a LOTTO ticket! LOL!!!
Looking sweet as she progresses buddy!
Thank you sir
Progress...
(https://i.imgur.com/z0RHmXk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iZPdUDA.jpg)
They also knocked out the dents and hammered and dollied it all to get it back to shape. I swear someone had a lead filled canoe on this roof!
Actually, the guy I bought it from said they had stored stuff on the roof after he left their shop.
Oh well, all minor $hit.
(https://i.imgur.com/s7W7u3j.jpg)
At the speed this is going, you'll be leaving rubber in May! :burnout:
:roadrunner:
Nice !
Starting with such a solid project car, and seeing the bodyshop's efforts.... this is going to be very rewarding.
Knowing what's under shiny paint, and how diligently it was down, must feel great !
Stopped by today and more progress.
The roof is all done and once painted, I can get the vinyl top done:
(https://i.imgur.com/pCJKNDP.jpg)
The pulled some of the dents with the pin puller and also welded up the holes from the previous work that was done with an older dent puller.
Now they are doing the bodywork:
(https://i.imgur.com/YSH2eXq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6VFtZwb.jpg)
It's really starting to come together.
I can only dream of my car looking like that.GREAT progress!
Straight lines....
(https://i.imgur.com/qwFWCU7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4tFTOka.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/blLxia8.jpg)
SWEET! One of the things I look at on cars at shows...are the body lines synchronized and straight! That is going to make the paint job look so excellent!
The gaps are maybe the best I've seen on anything. Especially considering the speed those guys are working at.
Hood scoop mounted and gaps getting better, just waiting to get it in Duratec; hopefully Monday.
(https://i.imgur.com/HMVRn6o.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JHtr93l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vS0ipXG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wPdEyGN.jpg)
Wanna bet the gaps are better now than when it was brand new? Lookin' good! :006:
Thanks.
I am extremely pleased with the work they are doing. The gap on the passenger side trunk/quarter panel was off (the area marked with green tape), so they Mig welded some brass on the trunk edge and blended it to straighten the gap; perfection!
(https://i.imgur.com/aR9SQep.jpg)
The finished gap:
(https://i.imgur.com/alT11VM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bP4OImt.jpg)
Would have liked to see that being done. 8)
Finally, ready for a coat of Epoxy, then a few coats of Duratec...
(https://i.imgur.com/6wJSyxo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vAxqcc1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hrmcK3k.jpg)
Lookin' pretty straight and sexy there buddy! :003:
Very impressive work. It's gotta be exciting for you!! Can't wait to see it in paint.
A quick coat of epoxy primer this morning to cover the bare metal...
(https://i.imgur.com/Y8aWzXB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bJlHlVC.jpg)
I went by tonight (about 20 minutes ago actually) to watch him put down the 3 heavy coats of Duratec.
The artist at work:
(https://i.imgur.com/y9A27z8.jpg)
Most of this will get sanded off when they block the car...
(https://i.imgur.com/UaD1oSZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nca0fhm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AIKFo7S.jpg)
What's Duratec must not be very toxic just wearing a cheap face mask?
I assume Duratec is a high-build primer?? I believe ALL automotive finishes are toxic, but I did notice he appears to have a very high transfer rate with his gun, as there is next to nothing on the floor and the air is very clear. Hell, when I spray, the air is so fogged I can barely see.
Duratec Surfacing Primer 707-002(gray) Provides outstanding filling and leveling properties when applied to substrates such as fiberglass, metal, wood, foam, concrete and pressboard.
Normally he would wear a respirator, but because he wasn't spraying it in the booth, he had the heat blowing out the spray booth slightly open door. That way it blew the heat (and the overspray & fumes) out the slightly open exterior door at the other end of the building.
Duratec is a composite product that goes on very similar to Gelcote, so there is minor overspray. It actually smells like gelcote and fiberglass.
I googled it, it says you can actually sand it with fine paper and buff it to a high luster shine, interesting.
Yes, I use to use it to make my molds instead of tooling gelcote.
I wish I would have known about it years ago when I did the removable bed floor in my ranchero looks like it would have filled all the pitting after it was sandblasted better than the primer I used.
Anxious for updates, Joe!
Me too Rich! Unfortunately, he likes to let it "cure" for a couple of weeks before they start blocking.
I'm the same with respect "curing"! Time and mean ol Mr. Sun are my cure modes!
Yeah, I was going to ask if they cured before final sanding. Gotta do it to be good. Thanks Joe. We've been missing your posts.
Thanks Rich, just been very busy lately.
After letting it cure for 15 days, they started blocking this afternoon.....
(https://i.imgur.com/uRh3r5T.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rucGPbQ.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/uChK2uK.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/KpcFxMi.jpg?1)
The lines look sharp enough to cut your finger. Careful!
Excellent!! Won't be long now.
Still blocking today...
(https://i.imgur.com/0mOeVmw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3uqlGs3.jpg)
Just realized that I never posted the pics of the hood cutout. I want to give a "Special Thanks" to Dave, a/k/a Hogfiddles over on the Torino forum for supplying me with the pattern.
This could have never taken place without his help.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZskX5O3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MM4x1g3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cNoXi7l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZiarSDu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5i9IqMf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GMb8V9i.jpg)
I was pleasantly surprised this morning when i went by to see if any progress was being made on my car.
This is what I saw yesterday:
(https://i.imgur.com/bCL86kB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Z8BDVVI.jpg)
This is what i saw this morning:
(https://i.imgur.com/Td50gbR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hucyW1X.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/C8DT40b.jpg)
it looks fantastic, Joe! Loving how clean they work, with masking the undercarriage, engine compartment aso.
Thanks DJ! They do nice, clean work. My car is in the old shop, you should see the newer shop next door; I'll try to take some pics tomorrow.
In today's world it is really heartwarming, to still see automotive businesses, that take pride in their work and quality. I fully understand that reasonable profit has to be made by a shop, but often it compromises work ethics. I just love when people have the dedication to really do an outstanding job.
The last photo...........another coat of primer, or is that a coat of sealer? or a final blocking? I'm looking at the darker color around the wheelwell that makes me think it was a final blocking. When's the yeller going on?
That's the final coat of primer, then block again , then sealer then paint.
DJ, here are some pics of the other shop, both from down on the floor and from upstairs:
(https://i.imgur.com/Ehzsqo2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/e5JgAG5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DWhaMdH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QgPcOV4.jpg)
I stopped by there this morning, (the Body shop is actually closed, but the towing part is open), looks like the got a guide coat on at the end of the day yesterday. Hopefully the start blocking Monday.
(https://i.imgur.com/0iGIq0d.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MvubUVe.jpg)
Man those side lines are STRAIGHT!!! Bet they didn't look that razor sharp out of the factory!
Many hours with a long board! The 62 Bird I built had the same line, full length of the car but not as well defined. I can't even begin to say how many hours were in each side of the car. It was owned by a little ol lady (really!) that must have rubbed up against every immovable object in the city.
Lol, she hit everything but the Lottery!
I hit the 200 hour mark Friday. bawl
In post #117 the lift the car is up on, anyone out there use one like that or a similar one? Could make working on the 57 nice and safe and could be stored out of the way...
Quote from: glenmichael on 2025-03-18 10:46In post #117 the lift the car is up on, anyone out there use one like that or a similar one? Could make working on the 57 nice and safe and could be stored out of the way...
I looked them up a couple of months ago. Tire shops use them for obvious reasons.
Prices on them seemed to start around $2k and go up from there FYI.
They are pricey, but if you have no overhead room they are a workable solution to provide access under the car. More than jack stands......
Here's a measurement from the right side of the hood to the center:
(https://i.imgur.com/9Rqgufl.jpg)
...and here's a measurement from the left side of the hood to the center:
(https://i.imgur.com/C13G9qU.jpg)
it doesn't seem noticeable though you look at the placement of the letters?
(https://i.imgur.com/7k9LBwk.jpg)
They've got the doors off and the jambs are all sanded & primed and are now ready for paint:
(https://i.imgur.com/KDsqJXR.jpg)
I'm assuming what you are showing us with the measurements is how far off the OEM hood peak/center rib is from the sides, not how far off their scoop mounting is.
That's correct.
Got the trunk done with bedliner, we tinted it to match the exterior color:
(https://i.imgur.com/JFGgxIQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nPBs3HO.jpg)
Thanks you! I'm working on my 57 and need to get it ready for paint and was trying to figure out cleaning up the trunk and replacing weather striping. I'll have to make a Harbor Freight run. When I pulled the WS it looks like caulking under, is that factory or did someone caulk after?
The tintable bed liner is great! Used it in the Ranchero bed and liked the results! Would have painted it but the friend who wanted the car said the bed of the 66 I sold him was too slippery, could I put bed liner in? Plan on using it when I start the 56 Crown Vic.
I sprayed the bottom with tinted bed liner. Certainly not OE but very durable. After only a few thousand miles, there is no wear inside the wheel wells. I would absolutely apply to any future projects. I would change the order of application. I sprayed the bedliner before the finish surfaces. If I did it again, I would spray the finish surfaces first and then spray the bedliner. Taping off the bedliner was a pain! Tape does not want to stick to bedliner!!
is that a light beige or metallic gold color Joe? Hard to tell in this pic.
1968 Medowlark Yellow
(https://i.imgur.com/2AfKK8J.jpg)
Beautiful color. That will work very well!
Any contrasting pin-striping to accent body lines?
Black GT rocker stripe and I am going to lay out a black center w/accent on the hood
Quote from: CobraJoe on 2025-03-29 07:29Black GT rocker stripe and I am going to lay out a black center w/accent on the hood
That'll look sharp! :006:
that is a really beautiful color choice, well done Joe !
Thanks, got the engine compartment done today. It looks glossy but will dry to a satin black:
(https://i.imgur.com/cc1QVYl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xuU5KRU.jpg)
A little better now that it's dry:
(https://i.imgur.com/yE4Tkl2.jpg)