Has anyone done an after market A/C? I live in NM and we get triple digit heat regularly and I keep looking at them. If you have how did it work and what was the install like?
I put one in my car. I used a variety of new parts. I used an Vintage Air Evaporator (under-dash Mark IV replica. It has a metal case and it looks 'period correct), a Vintage Air universal condenser, VA dryer. I bought a Sanden style compressor and a 8V drive mount set up from CVF Racing for my FE engine. I also used special AC hoses (Aeroquip] and fittings. The hoses are very flexible and EASILY made up at home.
My engine runs hotter than a Y-block and the water temp would creep up with the A/C on so I added a pusher fan
https://vintageair.com/mark-iv-under-dash-system-cool-only/
https://cvfracing.com/black-ford-390-serpentine-system-ac-alternator-power-steering/
https://vintageair.com/ez-clip-universal-hose-kit/
I noticed that they don't list a kit for '57 Fords but they have kits for early F-100s, so they probably have brackets and pulleys for Y-blocks. I didn't buy the hose kit from them when I found the fittings and hoses were Aeroquip.
The system works great.
PM me and I will give you my number if you want to talk.
I used the complete Vintage Air Gen IV system, except the stock '95 Lincoln (S1 ?)compressor. fit great, works great. You'll lose some of your glove box.
If you go that route, I've got lots of suggestions.
I've installed to Vintage Air GEN IV in two '57s and one in a '65 Galaxie. The GEN IV fits nicely under the dash for a clean out-of-the-way install. Gen IVs uses stepper motors (no vacuum or cables) so the OE heater controls can be upgraded.
DON'T be afraid to insulate!
On this install, I used the under dash grilles. NOTE: the look of the original HVAC controls after the VA upgrade.
As mentioned, you will loss a portion of your glove box as well as the right fresh air vent.
- When ordering the GEN IV main 'box', order for a '69-70 Mustang with the 'convertors'. The ECM pairs to the convertors.
- I also ordered MOPAR defrost adapters...they fit pretty good.
- I did NOT order parts as a 'kit'. The box, convertors, grilles, defrost adapters, receiver dryer, condenser, pump, hose and hose fittings are all la carte. If you want a kit, call VA and explain what you want to do. In the past, Customer service was always helpful.
Great illustration Gary!. I would also add: change your hood springs to hydraulic lifts. One of the main issues you'll run into is the lack of space to run the condenser hoses. Hydraulic lifts eliminate the taking up of space under the hinge brackets. Speaking of condensors, order the biggest that will fit. If I recall correctly, there was only one offering that was larger than what will fit our radiators. When mounting the condenser, keep it close to the radiator. I went an inch, which was too much.
I ran my lines (A/C & heat) out the inner fender, over the tire and in the side of the cowl. The A/C line went out just in front of the radiator support, the heater lines under the battery tray System works good.
Couple more....
Hello You fellas amaze me. How many parts did you send back or still have that didn't work out? HA
a handful, lol.
Another suggestion.......if you do run your hoses thru the sidewall, do it like FordBlueBlood did...........that is, NO THREADED FITTINGS ON A BULKHEAD. You can't get to them if they leak over time without pulling the fender. Ask me how I know.
I did the first one with the cute bulkhead plate. I fortunately have never had a leak but I will not do another one. The cost of the bulkhead plate and eight Aeroquip fittings buys nothing but extra work and like Rich said, potential leaks.
Gasman,
two questions:
1) Is that dragon skin insulation or coating that you used on the floor? how do you like it?
2) How do the controls work? I am going to install a Vintage Air but I am using an original under dash evaporator and the compressor tubes are going through the firewall not the side/glovebox.
Mike
There are two Lizard Skin (LS) formulas...one for thermal and the other for sound. LS recommends using both. I've only used the thermal. LS is available in white or black. I used both but prefer the white...so much easier to finish an interior that is bright. LS is available a la carte or in a kit. The first one, I bought the kit which included a low pressure, thick material spray gun with accessories to spray by the quart or direct from the bucket. LS recommends a .040" application to obtain a 40 degree thermal block. The first car was fully striped and on a rotisserie so I sprayed it. Very easy, quick and water cleanup. I sprayed the inner roof and inner firewall. Most other panels were sprayed on both sides. I sprayed the fender wells and inner trunk. All exposed surfaces were top coated with tintable bed liner. Since the firewall was finished on the engine side, I added DynaMat on the inner firewall as well as a few other select places. I added DynaMat to seal up the inner door openings as well as others. The car is so well sealed that with the windows closed, one has to slam them to get them latched. I had the '57 out midday in 92 degree, humid, with the heat index of 100. This BLACK car setting in the sun with barely tinted glass was very comfortable (the fan was on high for the first half hour but then turned fan down a notch).
The other cars were fully assembled, running driving cars. I have masked off the interiors but it is a lot of work. For smaller areas or repairs, I've applied with a small roller or a brush.
The next car will have LS on it. Compared to DynaMat, LS is much lighter, much easier to install, cheaper and it works great with no failures or issues.
Answer to question #2: The controls work great...just like the OEM controls when they were new (even easier!). The cable convertors are easy to install and have only one small harness to route for the controls to the ECM. I operational adjustments for infinite with the stepper motors operating the dampers (much more than cables). Now, the downside. Vintage Air only offers stepper motor technology in their GEN IV models (small and light). I don't think VA offers stepper motors (and thus cable convertors) in their other boxes. Traditional style under dash units and their other offerings do not have steppers (not in the pass unless they just introduced them)...always best to call Tech Support.
The add-on, under dash style AC units do a good job and are the easiest to install...all the controls are in the unit. I don't care for them because they can be shin knockers, they are heavy, old OEM units were designed for R12, and they double the blower motors, double the switches and harnesses and imped access to under dash service.
One downside to converting the OEM HVAC controls to aftermarket steppers OR cables is you will need to remember where to set your levers or add your own labels to reflect temperature and damper settings for defrost, floor or dash modes.