removed the clips that hold the top stainless trim on the rubber gasket for the glass, I plan on wire brush or sandpaper the rust away, but one of the four clips might need replacing, has anyone found them for sale? Thanks Glen,
My mind is going blank on those. Not sure I've ever seen them, where exactly do they go? And for what it's worth, sandpaper or wirebrushing is going to be difficult on those, why not chemically soak?
This car started out in 1957 as an Ohio police car I found the original 1957 government type license plate between the trunk and back seat space when I first tore the car apart and wire going to the hole in the roof where I believe the siren was... Somewhere along the line somebody changed the trim on the windshield and back window from the Custom 300 model trim to what it has today. This is what I believe is True, BUT I've been wrong before!!! These pictures are from the shop manual of the trim and those clips... Rich, what type of Chemical rust remover are you recommending??
If you can't get yours clean or to work, I have a good set you can have for the shipping. ee-mail awstadel@gmail.com 406-855-7362
This is a first for me on those clips. I've never seen then, mine didn't have them. I wonder what others know about them.did their car have them or not?
Thanks for posting the illustrations.
on the chemical treating.......actually any commercial rust remover should work, but I never actually used a whole lot of it, as I mostly did sandblasting to remove rust followed by a coating of por-15 if it was a part that was not going to get an appearance coat of paint.
Try Evapo Rust
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.evapo-rust.com/&ved=2ahUKEwjGn_nCyJiRAxUlkIkEHf9EMXwQFnoECDsQAQ&usg=AOvVaw10KmS43hymkZgOmE-VlRo4
I've bought it at Harbor Freight. Works great.For small parts like those clips, I use a plastic coffee can and put the lid on it for a day or two.
John
I recommend Evapo Rust as well! Those clips screw on to the drip rail to hold the stainless on 500s. The different height of the windshields would require some modification the trim item going down the A pillar.
Was all that on the car or did it come in the trunk/passenger compartment?
Thanks for all the replies, I will give the Evapo-Rust a try, looks like it is sold at O'Reilly auto, I'm a little afraid to put them in the sand blaster, don't want to damage them. Thanks Alvin, if I run into a problem cleaning these (3 are good, 1 a little more rust) I'll let you know, I appreciate the offer!!! I have seen this windshield stainless trim on 57 Fairlane cars and I thought their windshields were taller, but this trim fits my 70B like it was made for it and it was on the car when I found it stored in a barn for many years. The side trim is also different then the Custom 300 you normally see. The car had a 312 motor and transmission from a truck; I was told and Fiberglass fenders, so who knows how or when the changes were made when it was done Driving Police around!!! Thanks Guys
Fairlane windshields are shorter than Custom by about an inch. 16" vs 17" if I recall correctly.
Just an update, the stuff I used, when I put the windshield clips in, after 24 hours, looks good, I'm impressed!! so, another 24 hours and I think I will put a little primmer on them and continue the windshield replacement project!!
they did come out really nice. Perfect candidates for por-15. Nothing else needed.............primer won't last, especially if aerosol can variety.
Thanks RICH, the clips looked even better after another 24 hours in the rust remover, I would shake the container whenever I walked by, I will look into some por-15, I've never used it, I also will look into finding replacement screws, stainless ones this time...
I Agree with Rich POR 15 is easy and bullet proof and one step.
I did my entire undercarriage and inside of the car with POR 15. underside of roof, inside doors, etc. I guess I'm a POR-15 fanatic. That said, I've never used any product where following the the mfger's instructions is so critical.
some tips/must do's:
wear gloves. This stuff takes 4 hours to dry on metal, about 4 minutes to dry on skin, and it aint coming off once dried. It'll be forever on clothes.
The reason it is so good, is that POR-15 is really not a paint. It is an encapsulator. Paints dry by solvent evaporation, leaving microscopic porosity. And por-15 is really a two-part coating, the second part being water that it absorbs from the air. No microscopic porosity.
lacquer thinner is a good solvent for it.
por-15 REQUIRES a surface with some tooth. It won't adhere to slick surfaces.
Don't put in a spraygun. a cheap throw-away brush works just fine. the 4 hour dry time gives it plenty of time to flow out really really smooth!
don't buy large cans. It's got a short shelf life once the can is opened. Clead the lid and can top before butting the lid back on. POR-15 is an excellent adhesive, so even after cleaning the lid, use plastic between the lid and can or you won't get the lid back off. I've used glass jars for the stuff after I had to poke holes in the can to drain out.
As mentioned, it will smooth out any brush marks. Only exception to getting a smooth finish is if you use the product in high humidity.
I'll add to what Rich said........When painting a large surface that will be seen, and you want it to be "slick", don't go back and re-brush it once it starts to set up.Doing such will leave brush marks.
Rich is spot on about not spraying this product. DON'T DO IT!
I keep a can of POR15 in my paint cabinet, that I have never removed the lid. Instead, I punch two holes in the lid, one to pour, and one to vent. I then install a large sheet metal screw in both holes, and put a dab of caulk over the screws to complete the seal. I've had this Qt.can of POR15 for several years. Still very liquid, and ready to go, by simply removing the two screws.
Your results may vary.
I may have said this before but at my age can't remember. POR 15 also works great with fiberglass cloth for patching, as you know resin doesn't stick to any thing, POR 15 does and doesn't even have to be derusted first. Patched many a work truck floorboards that way and they lasted.
I've done that as well. My headlight buckets were repaired that way and still look like new after 15ish years! It also bonds to plastics, so I modified my plastic engine air intake using alum. window screen, fleece, and por-15. The por-15 bonded the screening to the plastic to span the openings I was closing off. On occasion, I have sprayed the backside of the fleece, or fiberglass cloth, with aerosol rubber sealing stuff because the por-15 will bleed thru and make a mess..
Also, another great por-15 product is POR Patch. It's a thickened version of por 15 in a tube. It'll pretty much stay put better than the canned product.