Hi folks, Gary here, live across the water in England, where the weather's cold & wet & the TV programmes suck! I've had my 57 Ranchero for 3 months. It was imported from the US about 8 years ago (it was once featured in Old School Rods), I bought it from the previous owner who had stripped it & started rebuilding it.
The spec & story so far:
Chassis, axle suspension etc, etc has been shot blasted & painted, its fitted with a Wurth steering rack conversion, power disc brakes, dropped spindles & Aerostar front springs. The body was dipped & primed about 5 years ago, revealing typically rusty floorpans, rear arch edges, some rocker damage & a few thin bits here & there. All repairs are being done by cutting out all the rot & butt-welding in repair panels attempting to metal finish & use no filler, only high build primer. Okay, I've had to use a skim of filler here & there but I want this car to be the best I've ever had. The car came with around $2500 worth of brand new packaged parts (including all of those little bits & pieces that you don't realise you need until the last minute) rechromed bumpers & overriders, etc, etc.
So far I've replaced both rockers, repaired the edges of the roof and also replaced parts of the A-post adjacent to the windshield. I've just started to drill out the spot welds holding some of the floor panels in place in the end of the load area. The aim is to have the body lifted back off by end of the summer to allow painting to commence! Colour will be blue & white and wheels will hopefully be 17" Torque Thrust 2's. I'll add more pics as & when I get chance.
I've got loads of questions as well, so I hope I fit in round here!
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424d4689caacbc5.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424d35bced3b111.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424d35bcebc749b.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424d35bcec7864d.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424d5023986cf3e.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424d502398a68e1.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424d715819dfffd.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424d71581a5f88d.jpg)
You've got it looking good, Gary. Keep up the good work and keep posting pics of your progress.
Welcome to the website. You'll fit in just fine...and since we're two countries seperated by a common language, our biggest problem will trying to figure out what the other is talking about. I'm curious what an "overrider" is ?? Nice sheetmetal work...looks like that ranchero is in the right hands. Rich
Welcome, you have a nice start there. To bad you don't live next door. Just curious if the car was an ebay find or something else. Mark
Looks like you're doing it right Gary. A lot of work, don't get
burned out. Mine looked like that once. :005:
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2011-04-10 18:07
Welcome to the website. You'll fit in just fine...and since we're two countries seperated by a common language, our biggest problem will trying to figure out what the other is talking about. I'm curious what an "overrider" is ?? Nice sheetmetal work...looks like that ranchero is in the right hands. Rich
Aha, "over rider" thats what we call the pair of upright bits attached to the bumper, you guys might call them bumper-gaurds? Yep, I'm used to the minor language variations that can cause some head scratching, having owned a '60 Impala for eight years and using chevytalk.com, I got to grips with MOST of the American-English differences!
I knew that there was some rust in the rear load area, so today I decided to make a start.
The upper panel was repairable, so I drilled out a load of spot welds, cut through some brazing and lifted off the upper panel to get to the rust in the underside panel.
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424da85705ba27e.jpg)
I lifted the panel off and was greeted with this lot.......
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424da857063d5ea.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424da85706b381c.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424da857070144a.jpg)
Fortunately the rust only affects this panel & the body brace so repairs SHOULD be straight forward. Unfortunately I just found out I've run out of sheet steel, so I've got to wait until tomorrow now to pick up some steel & start fabricating & cutting.
To be continued.....
I did that floor on mine.What an F'n job. That's some of the worst part
of the whole car. I cut 6" out of the bulkhead too and replaced it.
Tough work.
Ron
Gary, Nice work. I have to hand it to you restoring an american car must be tough in England. It's hard here in New England, home of the rust buckets! Keep up the good work!
Okay, a bit of an update.
I removed the rusted section & fabricated the outrigger:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424e0dffd45a7e3.jpg)
Then cut out a repair panel (I'm doing it in two pieces) for the lower panel. The recess for the body mount was tricky so I had to think about it because I know I'd seen that shape somewhere before:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424e0dffd48c0aa.jpg)
There will be no more home made jam tarts at our house:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424e0dffd4adb9b.jpg)
The baking tray was a good quality one so the metal was nice & thick & the shape was just right!
Floor pans next. They were good, but rusted through under the seats.
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424dff8ccdbc336.jpg)
I know these are available in the US but shipping was horrendous, so I used a similar shaped one for another car, any ideas what it it?
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424dff8e636ceea.jpg)
VW Beetle!
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424dff8ccd93300.jpg)
Still got to grind all the welds down (all repairs are butt welded in).
Very nice work! Love the cake pan idea!
ditto on that. Wished I had thought of the tart pan idea (muffin pans here in the u.s. lol) when I replaced a couple of areas in my trunk....although playing with a nylon dead blow hammer and a shot bag for a few hours was kinda fun. Nice work. Rich
Cut, weld, grind. Cut, weld, grind. And repeat until the rust is gone.....!
Passenger side looked to be not too bad, but I should have known better:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424e5e548bf20a8.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424e5e548bd6f29.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424e93016266c49.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424e930162863cb.jpg)
Just need an hour or so with the grinder to linish the welds flush then I can get the body off (again)!
Gary...you're moving right along on this project. Looking good.
Thanks Rich. The biggest obstacle I'm facing now (apart from the usual British weather turning cold) is trying to get five mates all to turn up at the same time to lift the body off the frame! Might try and tempt them with beer & food......
Yep Gary, beer and food worked for me with the labour required for lifting. My only problem was the old mathematical equation that goes something like ' The time spent helping, is roughly multiplied by 10 in drinking' not sure if it was Einstein, did he have a '57 ?
You are in a good place with the Ranchero, all the fun stuff is in front of you.
Keep it up, AL
I
can relate to the misery you're going thru
(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h307/shopratwoody/miscpicturePicturefor57Fordemail-41.jpg)
NASTY JOB :005:
The bit that I've not been looking forward to doing is the panel under the tail light, its a compund curve in two directions & repair panels aren't made. The previous "restorer" had tack welded & hammered some steel roughly into shape then spread a load of filler over it! So, removing the plates left this lot:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424ea2cb7a53abd.jpg)
Cutting it all out revealed the inner panel had also started to get a bit perforated.... easy enough as its just a flat panel:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424ea2cb7a8a8d7.jpg)
After much head scratching I realised the complex (for me anyway!) shape could be replicated from two pieces, each curved to suit with the edge where they meet kicked up, lower piece being tried for size (inner panel not repaired yet as I wanted to keep the original datums while I made the outer panel):
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424ea2cb7b8d6c4.jpg)
With that done, the inner panel was repaired & the new lower curved panel welded in. The upper panel was then cut to shape & tried for fit. All repairs on this car are butt welded so the fit is critical, but it means a lot less filler is required afterwards:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424ea2cb7c13bff.jpg)
Weld, grind:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424ea2cb7c901c2.jpg)
Fill, sand & prime:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424ea2cb7d19c9f.jpg)
I'll do the other side next week time permitting. I also managed to score a pair of new wheelarch repair panels on EBay (from the guy selling the 60's & 70's manufactured repair panels) for $65. The US seller was happy to ship to England for a reasonable $50, so thats another rot-spot dealt with when they turn up.
I was lucky enough to buy the piece for under my rr tailight. Same problem. Nice work.
Got onto the other side, rust damage was the same, but some old accident damage meant I had to make the repair panel longer (folded it up round a prop-shaft!):
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424eb419a2ec761.jpg)
Grind, fill, sand, prime......
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424eb419a333e07.jpg)
As soon as I'd primed that the postman turned up with these:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424eb419a315dab.jpg)
So thats the next job lined up!
Very nice Work :burnout:
As the temperature drops I get kinda thankful for welding & grinding to keep me warm! :003: Been busy over the last few weeks, first off, fitting the wheel arch repair panel:
Inner arch lip was getting thin, so I used the shrinker/stretcher to make a new one, here it is tacked into place:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424ebecd6b6d0c7.jpg)
The new arch repair panel was then welded into place & ground back, the front half of the arch wasn't included with the panel so I had to make that using the shrinker/stretcher (they're usefull bits of kit!!!):
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424ebecd6bce6fe.jpg)
After I'd cut the original arch out, the panel sprung out of shape so I had to apply pressure to the joint while welding it to keep it "true". Not having enough hands and nobody being around to help I had to improvise, a garden rake being the ideal length!!!:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424ebecd6bb1642.jpg)
Lower 1/4 next, although these looked sound the metal was getting thin in places:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424ed5585b1e74b.jpg)
While I'm pretty good at fitting repair panels, hand-forming ones with compound curves is beyond my skills, so I had to look for something similar. I discovered that the early Ford Transit vans (long wheel base models) sold in the UK from the mid 60's up to the early 90's had lower quarters that looked similar, so I scored a pair of new replacement panels from the local spares shop:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424ed5f49fec9d2.jpg)
Chopping out the lower couple of inches of the 1/4 showed the inner was pretty good, but the front half needed replacing:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424ee7534fb73b5.jpg)
The new outer panel was trimmed & offered up and it was a 99.9% spot-on fit! Incredible, at least I'm using a Ford panel to repair a Ford! It was seam welded in & ground back:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424ee7535080417.jpg)
Skim of filler, sand & a coat of primer:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424ee7535198210.jpg)
Next job is to take the body off as I'm concerned about getting overspray on the fully restored & painted chassis (I think the layer of dust on it is protecting it!). The only problem I'm faced with is its getting real cold over here now!
Sure looks good. Nice work!
You're doing great work there! I love the garden rake! As they say, all's fair in love, war and body work.
Unless you realy want to lift the body off use tin foil to wrap the frame. It is a pain in the butt to do but it stays in place for a long period of time, fits around irregular surfaces really tight and is easy to remove when you are done. I keep a roll in the shop.
I heard of guys using saran wrap also, the clear plastic kitchen wrap. Then peel off when you are done. The aluminum foil would work better on sparks, Mark
I can't believe its over six months since I updated this! Father-in-law died in January, work, building work on the house, vacations, working on the Ranchero and forgetting to take photos, etc, etc........
I replaced the passenger side rear arch and lower rear corner then I had to lift the body off, I couldn't avoid it any longer. I figured I needed six mates to do it safely, but trying to get six mates together (and sober....) at the same time was difficult, so using axle stands, jacks & a steady hand, I lifted the body & rolled the chassis out. Following this I finished rebuilding the brakes, fitted the differential, handbrake cables etc & shock absorbers. Took me ages to get the bumper brackets straight, but the work was worth it in the end. The bumpers are re-chromed to a really high standard.
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424fe49469af20a.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424fe494694e9ee.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424fe4946a1abd6.jpg)
Then it was time to roll the body over. It sits on a custom made jig made by the previous owner, it is very well made with all joints being TIG welded, but the front part of the jig sat under the floor, I wanted to move this to pick up on the front body mounts so I can get to all the floor for prep & paint. With this done I started to roll the body. I couldn't do this on my own so using all manner of blocks of wood & a jack I started it off, when it was at 45 degrees I could push it by hand, I have to admit to having a butt-clenching moment as it turned over & the roof gutter passed the roof joists in the garage with about 1/4" gap! I've now started to replace a couple of flor braces & finish off the underside.
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424fe4946a78c78.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2424fe4946b3f926.jpg)
Hoping to get the braces replaced over the next few weeks then need to sort out some rust in the "spare wheel" well.
Has it really been that long since I updated this? A few progress bits & pieces:
The trunk floor was pinholed with rust in the spot welded seem, I removed the well & repaired it with a piece cut out of a Ford Capri (Merkur Capri in the US) spare wheel well, shot blasted the seams & welded it back in.
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24250a11397d1dcb.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24250a11397f37dd.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24250a1139863ff1.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24250a1139904a4b.jpg)
The gas tank mounting was also shot and needed replacing.
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24250a113988c8e3.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24250a11398b333c.jpg)
Body braces just behind the cab were shot, shipping on these was as much as the braces so I folded some up & welded them in, various repairs were needed to the inner wheel arches & other body mounts. Weld, grind, prime etc, etc........
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2425072c22bbd299.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2425040d524e5fc7.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2425072c26be44b3.jpg)
Where I'm at now. The underside has been painted with stone-guard (under coating) and finished in 2K gloss. This afternoon I got it all bolted back down, it took me 6 hours to align the body with the mountings....... All done on my own, lifting the body with an engine crane, axle stands, crossed fingers and wearing steel toe-cap boots, "just in case"!
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242519650c35e5bc.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24251a79c10a3e19.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24251a79c115c265.jpg)
Now the warmer weather is finally here (winter seemed to last until about a week ago over here) I intend to crack on and also to check in here a bit more often, now, what's next....?
Nice work Limey! That's a sweet looking job, Mark
Great to hear from you Limey. You're just getting a ton of work done on that 'chero and it's all looking great. Your metalworking ability to make alternative stuff work is remarkable. Looks like it's getting close to finish time ... so now you've got me curious what your plans are for paint, interior, etc.
Thanks Rich. We've had a real bad winter here, work's been hectic etc, etc, so time for keeping up to speed on forums (I only use two!!!) has been short, but the sun's shining, work's easing back a bit so I'm back!
Paint is going to be the same as "57Chero" on here (pale blue & white), the wheels are 15x7 steels, painted blue with trim rings & caps. I wanted 17" Torque Thrust 2's but trying to source the correct back spacing for the rears over here wasn't easy, so I went with steels. Besides, at the minute it seems that every American car from 1957 to 1960 over here has Torque Thrust 2's so I wanted to be different!!!!
Getting the body aligned took ages, I'd get most of the holes lined up to find one at the rear was 1/16" out, aligning that then threw another one 1/2" out. Got there in the end though, as I was working alone I used an engine crane to take the weight while I pushed & shoved the body around.
Next stage is to seperate the door frames from the skins. There's some rust in the bottoms that needs replacing with fresh metal, but there's also a lot of rust starting all round the skin where it's folded over the frame, I suspect caused by the acid dipping. I'm going to remove the skins completely & sand blast the mating faces before re=assembling. Then its spending a few months priming & block flatting. The body is VERY straight but you ust know that when the guide coat process starts I'll fin loads of minor dents & dings.......
I've now sourced all the engine rebuild parts, I'm just waiting for the machine shop to have some space in the queue to bore the block & grind the crank, then the transmission is off for a refresh. I seriously thought about fitting a five speed manual but decided I've got enough work to do without the hassle of trying to source a clutch pedal.
Gary, if you decide to go stickshift, I've an extra pedal assembley. Shipping was pretty stiff last time, Mark
Mark, I'm going to stay with the auto (AOD) I've got, it will leave it as a three-seater which suits us better than restricting it to a two seater with a stick. My daily driver is a stick shift so it will be nice to relax in an auto once in a while when the Ranchero is done!
Gary, I've been following your posts with interest and admiration not only for your obvious metal skills but your ability to improvise and get it done in what some would say less than ideal conditions. I'm sure there are many others on here who do the same but it's your posts I'm talking about here and I think that the best compliment I can think of for you is that in these days of 250K shop rods it's refreshing to see a guy doing it on his own and doing a good job of it and, that to me, you are the definition of a real "Hot Rodder"!
Thanks, I've got a few more updates to post when I find time! More rust, more welding etc, etc.............
Where does time go? A few more pictures of rust & welding wire:
Doors, as per usual the rust was confined to the folded seams. Outwardly the doors seemed sound, but I had to remove the skin to see how bad they were. After drilling out a few spot welds, I carefully folded back the skin from the frame:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24251d2ddc7758f1.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24251d2ddc7a2988.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24251d2ddc7d81af.jpg)
Plenty of thick scale/rust. Removing the skin showed that although everything seemed quite good for a 56 year old car, both skin and frame were very thin. The frame had rotted through in one area and one corner, the skin was thin along the bottom edge and also about 10 inches up at either end.
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24251d2ddc82797b.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24251d2ddc84ca62.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24251d2ddc8750e2.jpg)
That is a solid piece of rust that was trapped between two layers of the frame:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24251d2ddc8ceffb.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24251d2ddc903943.jpg)
I shot blasted the inside edge of the door skin which (as suspected) found a lot of pin holes, rather than fart about trying to weld up each one I decided to chop out the bottom edge first. I cut this out with a good pair of aviation snips to minimise distortion, I also left 1/2" extra to joggle the edge of the skin to sit behind the new piece. To minimise the amount of heat build up through grinding I punched holes every inch in the joggled edge so I could weld the old & new skin together from the reverse side, I then tack welded in between these welds from the front side to give a good strong join requiring minimal grinding down and minimal risk of heat distortion.
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24251d2de71bed91.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24251d2de71eb9ff.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24251d2de716bce3.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24251d2de7220df1.jpg)
You can also see the parts I had to replace on the edges. I used a similar technique on these, combining plug-welding from the back & then tack welding between the plugs from the front:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24251d2de7248f6b.jpg)
To help aligning the skin on re-assembly I had only removed the bottom half, I left the upper part of the skin on the door frame in place. With the lower part of the skin done & re-fitted, I had to remove the upper part as this was also bulging with rust in places:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24251d2de7271f03.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24251d2de7300032.jpg)
Once all welded back together and the lower skin repairs blended in the door was trial fitted and although it is only mocked into position (and still needs some welds grinding down) it is now much better and rust free! Just got to do the other side now......
Fenders, rusted out along the trailing edge. They looked sound but were thin, the rear edge was straight forward to replace, but the drivers side had suffered accident damage in the past & looked like it had been repaired by a gorilla with a sledge hammer and a house brick. Fortunately i had some repair panels. Unfortunately the didn't cover all the damage.
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242523b5a695bf24.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242523b5a6d5ad20.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242523b5a6c62f0b.jpg)
First job was to brace the fender using a piece of steel bolted in place to stop the panel losing shape when all the battered tin was chopped out.
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242523b5a6b600f8.jpg)
The headlamp mounting panel was well made only needing slight adjustment on the lower edge. The wing upper panel didn't have the sharp folds of the original wing but I only needed part of it.
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242523b5cd9cb41a.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242523b5cd8c5022.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242523b5cdabd614.jpg)
This was also a good fit and was butt welded in, unfortunately it didn't extend down far enough so I had to make the lower piece. I started by taking a tracing of the same area from the opposite (undamaged) fender using masking tape.
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242523b5d9a065e4.jpg)
This was then transferred to a piece of steel sheet and cut out, remembering it was the opposite side.
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242523b5d9aebd2f.jpg)
With the aid of a vice, a planishing hammer, a curved dolly, a shrinker/stretcher and a lot of luck I knocked up a repair panel.
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242523b5d9be68eb.jpg)
With a bit more work it fitted well and was butt welded in.
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242523b5d9d8bdb9.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242523b5d9eebd37.jpg)
Tomorrow I'll get it all ground down & finished off.
This is an amazing amount of work you have done to save that Ranchero..
An amazing amount of EXCELLENT work to save that Ranchero. Way to go, as per your usual. Great job on the door skin salvage also!
You are right Rich, I should have included EXCELLENT. This type of work amazes me, something I would never tackle, it takes a real artist to do it.
Nice work Gary, I hope I can display that kind of patience when I tackle the 57 Quarter panel, Mark
Been a long time since I updated this, keep forgetting to take pictures! Well the last few days have seen some paint being thrown around:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2425413189ba849d.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2425413189d2efcf.jpg)
You have made great progress, totally awesome!! Your body work talent has surely paid off..
Very nice!!!!!!!!
That's gonna be pretty. LOL...I'm just waiting for a newbie to come along and ask how you were able to find such a pristine example. I've said it before, but it bears repeating...GREAT WORK...and the impressive part in.... a home shop. Did you do the spraying also? I'm pretty sure I can guess the answer.
Great body work. Your 57 is coming along great.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2014-09-13 14:13
Did you do the spraying also? I'm pretty sure I can guess the answer.
Yes, I lined the garage with polythene to keep the dust/flies out and the paint fumes in so as not to annoy the neighbours. I'd love to have it painted professionally but I would be looking at $4,000 minimum and I just don't have that sort of spare money in one hit. To be honest I enjoy the hands-on aspect too much to let anyone else work on it. I'm a "hands on" practical guy, but I have a work as Product Development Manager for a cable connector & accessories company so I don't get to use my hands at work and I look forward to engineering & metal work when I get home.
Thanks for the positive words, appreciated.
Now spending every spare minute bolting bits back on! The window mechanisms and lock assemblies were a test of patience but I won in the end. The wheels need repainting the right shade of blue and I still need to paint the front fenders & hood, but for the next few weeks I'm having a break from bodywork and trying to make some space in the garage by emptying the storage boxes of parts and getting them back on the Ranchero.
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2425457b975aa47b.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2425457b9769fdcf.jpg)
very nice ranchero. i like the colors.
Dragged it outside today to wash it, even though it's covered up in the garage dust still gets everywhere. I seem to be spending every day cleaning and painting endless bits, pieces & brackets, but the pile of parts is now reducing!
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2425482074453849.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242548207442208e.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24254820743e857f.jpg)
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It's a never ending line of little stuff...You're getting there though. That Ranchero is gonna be awesome when it's all buttoned up...never mind what you started with.
Looks great Gary, keep up the good work and supplying us with the progress shots.
She's looking good! Nice work!
Outstanding work Gary
Thanks, as soon as it stops raining I'll push it outside and take some update photos. Just fitting the front fenders at the minute, while having bolt-on panels make restoration easier they sure do make lining them all up hard work.......
Just fitted the tailgate, currently trying to source a decent handle.
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242551e819047d35.jpg)
This car is incredible. It is hard to believe it is the same car, outstanding work, Gary.
A few more bits done, aligning the front end has been a challenge! The lop-sided smile is because the bumper is still loose.
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242552a5f04b71c4.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242552a5f0479ceb.jpg)
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2 thumbs up Gary!
Beautiful job, incredible results, gorgeous car, sir!!!
That looks so good..you are certainly a talented metal man, for sure!
excellent example of a great restoration. your many talents are obvious, and to be envied.
Not updated this for a while, been too busy on it to remember to take photographs! However, the hood was waiting patiently for paint, but of course it wasn't that easy.......
The acid dipping had triggered severe rust in the folded seam so it was strip down time, seperating the inner frame & outer skin, shot blasting, painting & then re-welding:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24255563f41af3c5.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24255563f41de891.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24255563f427e795.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24255563f42af24a.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24255563f409bb27.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242558d9b0b9debb.jpg)
The front apron panel (between the bumper & grille) is painted, I'll fit it when the paint hardens & finally straighten up the bumper.
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242558db165d53db.jpg)
Fantastic job.
As always...looking great.
Still moving forwards, aiming for completion next year. Engine is away for machining, a stock late '79 302, typically the standard sized bore needed a 40 thou bore to completely clean it up. Guess who had already bought some 30 thou pitons assuming a 30 thou bore would be more than enough..........?
Anyway, here's a few updated photos:
Pulled it out into the road for a wash (the wheels are irritating me, I MUST get them painted the right shade of blue & fit the trim rings & caps!!):
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24256081b1bc91b6.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24256081b1c91985.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24256081b1d575ec.jpg)
The pick up bed floor had been cut (okay, hacked) in two by a previous owner and crudely fitted with household door hinges to allow the floor to be lifted up for access. The welding of the hinges was pure "quality", I wish I'd taken a photo....... It wasn't as simple as just butting the two back together & welding as there was a gap between them varying by 1/16" to 3/8", so I clamped them together using two lengths of 2" tubing to keep them flat and welded a strip in.
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24256081bfba5e79.jpg)
There were numerous dents in the floor and with it being thick and ribbed a hammer & dolly were pretty ineffective so I slid the floor under the car and using a bottle jack (with two pieces of steel either side of the dent) jacked the car up and used the weight to push the dents out, crude, but it worked quite well! After shot-blasting and painting it was screwed into place with stainless screws and plenty of sealant:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24256081bfad52da.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24256081bfa18e40.jpg)
Fuel tank was next, I shot blasted this (after plugging up every hole) the coated the top side with fibreglass resin and a layer of coarse stranded mat as there were a lot of pits after blasting and while they hadn't perforated the tank it was thin in places. The retaining straps were blasted and painted black before having adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing applied. The tank was painted with 2K silver gloss, a new sender unit fitted and bolted into place:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24256081c6aa2d61.jpg)
This picture reminds me just how big the 57's were:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24256081c6c09c11.jpg)
Another seemingly minor bit I'd been putting off:
In the rear corners of the bed are two blanking panels that cover access to the rear light:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24256091593e6b8b.jpg)
I had one for the O/S but the N/S one was missing:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24256091594b1d28.jpg)
Fairly straightforward with a return flange but a subtle tapered curve. First step was to take a tracing of the one I had:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242560915956acd8.jpg)
Transfer it to a steel sheet, remembering this one was the opposite side, so all bends and returns had to go the opposite way:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242560916837c3b5.jpg)
Complex radius aids were used with a steel rule to get it right:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242560916842d104.jpg)
Once cut out returns were folded, although these only needed to be 4mm deep, I made them 15mm initially to keep the panel straight and also to allow them to fit in the jaws of the shrinker/stretcher:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2425609168584fbb.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24256091684d9c76.jpg)
The tapered curve was made carefully using the shrinker on the straight return bend but the curve ran into the radius on the corner of the panel, as the stretcher only works on flat parts I had to resort to other methods. I trimmed down the return flange in this area to the required 4mm which allowed me to form the rest of the bend by bending it round a driveshaft.
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242560918c796595.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242560916862fade.jpg)
Once checked over I then trimmed the rest of the return flange down to 4mm and checked it against the opposite side, job done apart from drilling holes & painting.
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242560918c84451c.jpg)
4mm = around 3/16". Keep forgetting you guys use imperial measurements!!!
Looking good Gary. You are truly talented in the sheet metal department. The whole car is looking excellent.
x2!!!
Lovely work.
Can't say enough.... AWESOME! :003:
Gary, you have done a tremendous job on that car. It could stack up next to the best in the business, and do quite well. Awesome workmanship!!
Thanks folks, it's been a bit of a battle at times, the fit of the doors, the acid dipping doing more damage than it cured, a batch of paint that as WAY off colour and when a spider decided to land in the paint of the freshly painted hood and walk through it..........
I'm sure there are bits a pro- wouldn't be happy with, but I get a big kick out of the restoration side and trying to solve problems. Learning new trades is also rewarding. I've restored several cars over the years, usually English classics, but the Ranchero is the second US car, I'm hoping the third will be a 57 Fairlane (if I can find one).
I have to say that the work has been helped a LOT by the advice and help from people on here, words of encouragement, advice on solving problems and actually supplying parts. I won't name everyone who's helped just in case I accidentally miss someone, but everyone that has helped or taken interest, thank you.
If any of you ever visit the UK (bring warm clothes) give me a shout and if anyone decides to restore an English car, learn to weld!
Quote from: Limey57 on 2015-10-06 14:18if anyone decides to restore an English car, learn to weld!
truer words seldom spoken
Zap- :unitedstates:
Painted the wheels and fitted them this afternoon. REALLY need to get the engine & transmission in to drop the front, I like gassers but I didn't build this as a gasser!!!!
Got 101 other minor jobs done as well, you know, those jobs that collectively take hours but it doesn't look like you've done anything.
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2425633cbc3f1074.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2425633cbc3ba73f.jpg)
It's looking really sharp, nice work Gary.
Outstanding Gary!
Gary...you mentioned the Aerostars AND dropped spindles on Doug's thread...did you ever get the engine/drivetrain put in? If so..how's your front ride height? A spindle to fender lip measurement would be nice.
I thought about using Areo springs with the Granada spindles but my calculations told me it would be too low without using spring spacers and I didn't like the idea of spacers. I can give you the spindle to fender lip dimension with stock springs and Granada spindles if you need a comparison.
Engine & transmission are still out (plumbing the brakes at the minute). The guy I bought it off told me it had Aerostar springs & dropped spindles, but I can't confirm what spindles they are or how much they're dropped. I'll remove a wheel an take a few photos in the week to see if someone can confirm if they're dropped.
Excellent work Gary...
Keep forgetting to update this...... The end is in sight, but there's always so many small bits & pieces to do!
Class III style hitch installed, managed to find a supplier of English sized (50mm) hitch balls to suit the US style fitting, a 2" ball is only slightly bigger but just enough to stop it coupling:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/242576eccc00f293.jpg)
Steering wheel, I was after an original wheel and eventually found one locally, but it needed help!
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24258a8b7f03cbac.jpg)
The round boss on the back was badly damaged, only a third was remaining:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24258a8b7f106bee.jpg)
I removed the good remaining piece and cast it into soft resin, once cured, cut the mould in half to give a two-piece mould tool:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24258a8b7f16bf57.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24258a8b7f228750.jpg)
I then used a chopped glass-strand resin to cast up two replacement parts, these were trimmed and bonded into place:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24258a8b7f2d2f6a.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24258a8b7f38704a.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24258a8b7f455bea.jpg)
Any large cracks were ground out and given the same treatment:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24258a8b7f518848.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24258a8b7f5ca6c8.jpg)
The whole lot was then flatted, epoxy primed & glossed:
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24258a8b7f67ae6f.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/24258a8b7f73d810.jpg)
Gary
Your Ranchero looks great and so does your steering wheel. You didn't have much to start with. You did a great job of making that missing piece.
What do you have for an engine?
Quote from: Ecode70D on 2017-02-18 16:45
What do you have for an engine?
A '79 302. Collected it last week from the machine shop, it's been fully rebuilt & balanced with a 40 thou re-bore. Just started building it back up, I've got a set of aluminum heads to go on with an Edlebrock performer inlet & 600cfm car. Got to wait for (yet another!) Summit order to arrive, it's when you get to the end you notice all the bits & pieces that are missing.
MAN!!!!!! That steering wheel effort was something. I was feeling all cool fixing a bunch for cracks in five or six wheels. I threw better ones away. Who knew I could have sent them to England!
Wow, great save, Limey!!
That is some kind of work! Just outstanding!
Wow! You've done a ton of incredible work on that Ranchero! It really looks great.
The materials look like dental lab stuff.
Absolutely beautiful! You must have the patients of a saint. I would have thrown that one in the trash bin and never looked back :003:
All about saving original stuff and not having to use minor quality aftermarket parts. great effort, well worth it !
Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2017-02-19 11:27
All about saving original stuff and not having to use minor quality aftermarket parts. great effort, well worth it !
Does anyone have an aftermarket 57 wheel? There are people who restore them but they ain't cheap..
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2017-02-19 09:08
The materials look like dental lab stuff.
Rich, if you ever have a dentist that wants to use that stuff on you, run! It is basically fibreglass resin & hardener with chopped fibreglass strands in it, excellent stuff for jobs like this. I don't know how well it will stand up to the flexing of a steering wheel, but I'm hoping that by having power steering it will reduce the flex of the wheel as I steer it.
I just read thru all 7 (so far) pages, and all I can say is, WOW! My own welding and body work skills are pretty much non existent, so I am in awe of your workmanship, attention to detail, and ability to improvise in making your own patches and panels, when non are commercially available, especially with you located 1/2 a world away. And I thought being in Canada made sourcing stuff a pain! It appears that your transmission crossmember is not the factory piece, is it custom made, or available from a vendor?
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2017-02-19 13:20
Does anyone have an aftermarket 57 wheel?
I was referring to those cheap, ugly foam or plastic-wood rimmed things.
Quote from: 59meteor on 2017-02-19 14:55
I just read thru all 7 (so far) pages, and all I can say is, WOW! My own welding and body work skills are pretty much non existent, so I am in awe of your workmanship, attention to detail, and ability to improvise in making your own patches and panels, when non are commercially available, especially with you located 1/2 a world away. And I thought being in Canada made sourcing stuff a pain! It appears that your transmission crossmember is not the factory piece, is it custom made, or available from a vendor?
Thanks, I've never been one for taking the easy option! To be honest I get a lot of satisfaction making my own panels and parts I actually find it quite therapeutic!
The transmission crossmember is custom made to suit the new drivetrain (302 & AOD) and bolts onto tapped plates welded to the chassis.
Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2017-02-19 15:05
I was referring to those cheap, ugly foam or plastic-wood rimmed things.
OH!! those things :005: The repops they make for the trucks are really nice and great quality, I've had mine for 6-7 years and it's holding up well.
Incredible work Gary... wow !!!!!!
Gary, P.M.sent to you sir.
.........reply on it's way now.
I seem to have permanently moved into the garage to try and get this finished. All pretty much done, just waiting for the P/S pump to arrive. Sounds very nice & seems to pull/shift well, certainly sounds & smells better than my diesel BMW! Also need to refit the hood, I'll do that last once I've finished messing with the timing.
I think I'm going to have to trim down the bump stops, the Aerostar springs give it a great stance, but I need to lose 1/2" off the bump stops to give more travel.
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2425956af3faaec7.jpg)
Garage needs tidying!!!!
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2425956af4085205.jpg)
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/2425956af410af6c.jpg)
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Awesome Gary... GREAT Stance!
Looking good and glad you have it running. Don't tidy the garage, I'm glad to see one as bad as mine :003:
Looks great Gary. Anxious to get some road trip reports (with pics of course)! My stance was similar to yours, my preference appearance wise, but gave me some issues handling wise above 60ish. The car had the feeling of the back end wanting to come around on a downhill curve. 1" lowering blocks surprisingly eliminated the feeling totally. Just something to keep in mind if the issue arrises for you....an easy fix for a change.
Wow that's a great looking Ranchero.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2017-07-01 07:56
Looks great Gary. Anxious to get some road trip reports (with pics of course)! My stance was similar to yours, my preference appearance wise, but gave me some issues handling wise above 60ish. The car had the feeling of the back end wanting to come around on a downhill curve. 1" lowering blocks surprisingly eliminated the feeling totally. Just something to keep in mind if the issue arrises for you....an easy fix for a change.
Thanks, I'll remember that. It's now fully road legal but I'm concerned about the water temperature when running before straying too far from home.