I know someone had to run into this problem. We have drop em/stop em on the front and stock on the back. We are getting 3/4 thread engagement on back and maybe quarter on front. I'd like to make this as painless as possible and I want to make sure I get the right thing. One guy we talked to said we could put racing studs on. We'd have to drill larger holes for the studs and then cut the studs down to the desired height. This sounds crazy.
Thanks!!
I do believe replacement studs are readily available at the local parts houses. It shouldn't be a problem finding the length and thread size you need....even tire shops keep some in stock to replace ones their help screw up with the air wrenches. Just curious...Do your wheels have an unusually thick shoulder?
It doesn't seem like it to me. I'll check out one of the box auto stores in the area to see about studs. I'll shop around. Thanks. I'm on the other side of the state when I get these calls. We'll just pound one of the studs out and take it to the store to match it up with something longer.
Here's more info... I guess he did take the stud out of the front and rear. The spline diameter in rear is larger than front. Reg 57 axle. Front is Granada disk. We are getting 3/8 thread engagement on front and 1/2 on back. Is this enough?
Also, Dad said if they hadn't tapered the studs in front we would have been ok on those.
He took the studs to napa. They said what he had already was the longest he could get.
To have enough thread length we need at least 2 1/4". This was measured from bottom side of spline to end of stud.
He didn't give me the spline diameters. I'll have to call back. I've seen these rims on 57's before. I don't know if anyone else has had the same experience.
I've noticed '57 studs are a little short. Bigger tires put more stress on the lugs. I wouldn't be comfortable with less than 100% thread contact. My front brakes are also Granada and I run slotted aluminum wheels. These are a thick wheel with the lugs shanked to go down inside the wheel. These lug nuts are available with different length shanks. I had to look around a little but not a huge problem. The rears have the SVO (Explorer) disc brakes with Strange axles. Strange axles have the stud holes tapped so studs are available in several lengths and just thread in. I long for the days when you could go to the NAPA store and go to the racks for Dorman drawers and search for what you needed. ...make and model just doesn't cut it sometimes!!!!!!!!!!!!
Quote from: gasman826 on 2014-09-10 20:51
I long for the days when you could go to the NAPA store and go to the racks for Dorman drawers and search for what you needed. ...make and model just doesn't cut it sometimes!!!!!!!!!!!!
and the parts guy was a REAL parts guy. A guy that knew how to use a book to look up some of the stuff we need from time to time. I just love to go in and ask for a part for my 351C and have the "parts person" ask me what kind of car. Their computer don't go back to 36 Chevy they say......
I'm thinking conical shanked lug nuts may save us a lot of work. Thanks.
Here's some info on lug nuts for lug heads like me...
A Few Facts About Lug Nuts
Here are a few facts about wheel fasteners you should know before you bolt up your wheels on your ride.
Matching your lug nuts or bolts to your wheels.
There are 3 basic type fastener seats;
Conical Seat - cone shape
Spherical Seat - round or ball shape
Flat Washer - commonly known as Mag Type
Be sure the fastener seat matches the seat in the wheel.
Proper Thread Size.
There are several different thread sizes used today by vehicle manufacturers;
12mm X 1.25
12mm X 1.5
12mm X 1.75
14mm X 1.5
14mm X 2.0
7/16" X 20
1/2" X 20
9/16" X 18
Two other things to remember; 1) do not put oil or lubricant on the threads of either the stud or lugs nuts/bolts, and 2) re-torque the lug nuts/bolts after 25-50 miles.
Proper Thread Engagement.
This is critically important. Make sure you have a minimum thread engagement of the diameter of the vehicle stud (as recommended by SAE). An example is, if the stud size of your vehicle is 1/2" then you will need a minimum of 1/2" of threads into the lug nut. If for some reason you do not have this minimum then it is recommended that you use an ET Type nut (Extended Thread) (see illustration). ET Type nuts are useful when using spacers (that will be another subject in a future TECH Stuff).
Proper Torque (tightening)
This is also very important. Over tightening lug nuts/bolts can fatigue the vehicle studs or lug bolts. Use the SAE recommended torque listed below as a guideline for passenger cars and light trucks;
12mm, 7/16", 1/2" = 85 ft/lbs (+/- 5 ft/lbs)
14mm, 9/16" = 115 ft/lbs (+/- 5 ft/lbs)
I have used anti seize on the lugs for years with no issues what ever. Prevents galling which is problematic with chrome plated nuts.
So have I...this tip has been passed down through the generations. :-)
Better cite my sources...
http://www.performanceplustire.com/tech.info/A-Few-Facts-About-Lug-Nuts
Another reason lug nut geometry is important is that some wheels are hub-centric, others are lug-centric.
Speaking of lug nuts, which ones are you using? Do the Hopsters use the mag wheel type lug nuts?
E.T. Conical lug nuts.