here is a picture of the swap i did this summer.used a 68 mustang master for drum brakes.need to lengthen the push rod[less than a 1/4 inch].now i am taking it all off for a hydoboost and disc brake master
Gary, What are gonna use for the booster, I am very interested in following this part of your project.
plan right now is to use one from a 2002 mustang.will post pictures when i start on it
Lynn...you definetly want to watch what Gary comes up with, but in the meantime there's some threads from last year on the hydroboost installation. Look in the power brake booster section.
I'm also using a '02 Mustang, and the (Gasman) Gary is using an older hydroboost. Dgasman posted the info I needed to get mine installed.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2015-01-11 23:00
Lynn...you definetly want to watch what Gary comes up with, but in the meantime there's some threads from last year on the hydroboost installation. Look in the power brake booster section.
I'm also using a '02 Mustang, and the (Gasman) Gary is using an older hydroboost. Dgasman posted the info I needed to get mine installed.
i will be doing the same.here is a picture of what i will need to cut.
That dimple in the center of your marked area can be used to locate a 2" dia hole saw. If I had a mill available when I did mine, I would have made a 1/2-3/4" aluminum spacer plate to put between the booster and the firewall. It would make fabricating a new pushrod much easier as things get tight in there.
Thanks for the info Rich. My car came with a dual master, probably from the same car the brakes came off of. Don't know what mods, if any were made to date.
Lynn....Sorry for the confusion...that post was diected to Canadian for the Hydroboost install....that hole modification is required on those. So your last post has me confused as well...I thought you were considering a hydroboost.
Rich, you are not confused. I am confusing, all the time (according to my wife),LOL. I really am thinking about the hydro-boost, I just don't know what lurks beneath what I have.....more of a comment.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2015-01-15 07:33
That dimple in the center of your marked area can be used to locate a 2" dia hole saw. If I had a mill available when I did mine, I would have made a 1/2-3/4" aluminum spacer plate to put between the booster and the firewall. It would make fabricating a new pushrod much easier as things get tight in there.
thanks Rich for the information
well i fitted the hydroboost today.it hits my 1961 wiper motor i put in last year :005:will now need to redo my wipers.2 steps ahead,4 back!!!!!!!
2 forward 4 back...you're on the right path!
I've been mulling over this brake booster thing.....my 90 T-Bird SC had hydro boost but the power came from an electric pump. Two switches and relays controlled the thing. Might be the way to clean up the engine bay and get great brakes at the same time?
I don't know but I thought the electric pump was for backup on hydroboost systems?
i needed to repair the wiper cables anyway
here are some pictures on how i solved my wiper motor clearance issue.i have about .050 to .060 in clearance[see feeler gauge]still need to work on the cables.
I see the added bracket on the ww motor, not sure what it's doing. It looks like you ground a flat on the canister surround. Have you looked into the pushrod for the boost yet?
I removed the wiper stuff so long ago I don't remember much about it...mine's just welded shut now along with everything else.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2015-01-18 18:25
I see the added bracket on the ww motor, not sure what it's doing. It looks like you ground a flat on the canister surround. Have you looked into the pushrod for the boost yet?
I removed the wiper stuff so long ago I don't remember much about it...mine's just welded shut now along with everything else.
i am going to weld a extension on the brake pedal to line up to the push rod
here is a picture of the pedal
Quote from: lalessi1 on 2015-01-18 09:21
I don't know but I thought the electric pump was for backup on hydroboost systems?
No, it was the source of boost. Had an issue with it, very hard and high brake pedal. Took it in and got the estimate, $1200 for parts and labor. Saw that they were "easter egging" it by replacing the reservoir, pump and the two relays and switches that controlled the pump. Got into their books, found the connector and forced power, got the brakes back for about five stops. Checked the power relay for the pump and found the contacts dirty (cut open the relay), cleaned them with a nail file and that relay was still in the car when it got sold. Hardest part was finding the relay. It was/is on the passenger side next to the hood hinge...go figure.
That is really good to know. So I guess I am a little confused, when it was working right it had proper pedal feel? I like the idea of wiring over the idea of more hydraulic lines.
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2015-01-19 07:35
No, it was the source of boost. Had an issue with it, very hard and high brake pedal. Took it in and got the estimate, $1200 for parts and labor. Saw that they were "easter egging" it by replacing the reservoir, pump and the two relays and switches that controlled the pump. Got into their books, found the connector and forced power, got the brakes back for about five stops. Checked the power relay for the pump and found the contacts dirty (cut open the relay), cleaned them with a nail file and that relay was still in the car when it got sold. Hardest part was finding the relay. It was/is on the passenger side next to the hood hinge...go figure.
Now I am really confused...looked up "1990 Ford Thunderbird brake booster" on ebay.... they were all vacuum boosters. Was the electric hydroboost peculiar to the SC? I did see a large electric motor associated with the brakes but it was part of the ABS system. (I searched "1990 Ford Thunderbird brakes" for that.)
It seems to me unless the electric motor was an intrigal part of the hydroboost, there would be just as much plumbing, so I'm assuming the unit Bill is talking about has the motor /boost as a single unit. Not sure what advantage there would be otherwise unless your car was not set up for power steering.??
Ya, ebay is wrong as is Rock Auto. The system used from 89 - 92 is no longer supported with replacement parts. It was called "electro-boost" but is very reliable with the relays being the weak link. I did a little google look and found very little info out there. Did not go to the SC Club site.
Given the support issues I do not think I would use this system on a new build.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2015-01-19 08:35
It seems to me unless the electric motor was an intrigal part of the hydroboost, there would be just as much plumbing, so I'm assuming the unit Bill is talking about has the motor /boost as a single unit. Not sure what advantage there would be otherwise unless your car was not set up for power steering.??
Compact and no plumbing. Just the unit and master cylinder.
Quote from: canadian_ranchero on 2015-01-19 00:43
here is a picture of the pedal
[/quotgreat minds must think alike]. i did this very same thing to my brake pedal to solve the pushrod problem.
Since it seems I can't have "electro-boost".... I want it more now than ever!!! Lol
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2015-01-19 08:37
Ya, ebay is wrong as is Rock Auto. The system used from 89 - 92 is no longer supported with replacement parts. It was called "electro-boost" but is very reliable with the relays being the weak link. I did a little google look and found very little info out there. Did not go to the SC Club site.
Given the support issues I do not think I would use this system on a new build.
Quote from: pepfalcon on 2015-01-19 08:39
Quote from: canadian_ranchero on 2015-01-19 00:43
here is a picture of the pedal
[/quotgreat minds must think alike]. i did this very same thing to my brake pedal to solve the pushrod problem.
LOL...my mind wasn't so great...I did it the hard way.
Wiper motor clearance...turn the hydraulic booster upside down.
the other reason i did not modify the push rod was that if i needed to replace the hydro boost it would be a bolt in.
Gasman,
I couldn't help but notice the thing made from several adapters and an air hose fitting in the valve cover, what is that for?
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2015-01-19 19:36
Gasman,
I couldn't help but notice the thing made from several adapters and an air hose fitting in the valve cover, what is that for?
Temporary fitting to pressurize the crankcase. Using 5 psi of air, I test for gasket and seal leakage. There is negative pressure in the crank cast and valve covers...vacuum on the back side of the pistons via Moroso vacuum pump. Big cubic inches creates big back pressure. Vacuum pump makes HP and helps keep the gaskets and seals in place.
Quote from: gasman826 on 2015-01-20 19:50
Temporary fitting to pressurize the crankcase. Using 5 psi of air, I test for gasket and seal leakage. There is negative pressure in the crank cast and valve covers...vacuum on the back side of the pistons via Moroso vacuum pump. Big cubic inches creates big back pressure. Vacuum pump makes HP and helps keep the gaskets and seals in place.
Thank you for the explanation, I'm way behind the times on all the hot rod equipment.
found some adapter fittings for the master cylinder.goes from the bubble flair to the stock size brake lines
That's what I used. Any fittings/adapters you need for any plumbing...fuel, brakes, A/C, etc. can be found at www.purechoicemotorsports.com. They are in Lake Havasu, Az. Was there last year...great folks.
They have Metric to AN fittings including banjos. About the only stuff I needed they didn't have were A/C compressor adapters. I found some Springlock to beadlock A/C fittings at www.coldhose.com
Pure Choice also has springlock adapters for the fuel logs if you want to go that route (springlock to 6AN), but they're pricey,
Quote from: canadian_ranchero on 2015-01-21 19:09
found some adapter fittings for the master cylinder.goes from the bubble flair to the stock size brake lines
one did not fit.back to the store