Going to try real hard to document the build here. Not sure if this is the right thread but here it goes.....The built 351C/AOD and the 64 Galaxie box were the first. Had to modify the trans mount, more on that when it is installed.
Next the wheels need to turn without getting out and kicking the tires....a 62 T-Bird column is modified to fit to the brake pedal assembly.
The perfect title for the thread.......THE BILL BUILD...... Now this's gonna be good!
Looking forward to updates on this.
Slow progress. Killed the right vent to make room for the HVAC unit. Removed the flange the vent hangs on and fabed a cover to weld over the hole. Have no decided on heat and A/C line runs yet so the stock heater hole will remain empty for now. Pretty much decided to weld up ALL he holes in the fire wall them poke new ones as needed. Made some "nuts" to weld into the holes in the frame where four of them had rusted out. Welded washers to 5/16 nuts, ground them flat, slotted the hole in the frame and welded them in. See how good they are when the cross member goes in!
What's your engine going to be? One thing I wished I had done when I smoothed off my firewall was to eliminate part or all of the pinch weld seam running across the firewall.
Never mind on the enjin' question...reread your opening post...duh!!!
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2015-09-15 10:17
Slow progress. Killed the right vent to make room for the HVAC unit. Removed the flange the vent hangs on and fabed a cover to weld over the hole. Have no decided on heat and A/C line runs yet so the stock heater hole will remain empty for now. Pretty much decided to weld up ALL he holes in the fire wall them poke new ones as needed. Made some "nuts" to weld into the holes in the frame where four of them had rusted out. Welded washers to 5/16 nuts, ground them flat, slotted the hole in the frame and welded them in. See how good they are when the cross member goes in!
Are you aware that "Street Rodder" magazine did a two part series on installing a Vintage Air unit in a '57 Ford wagon. Very good article. Addressed the hose routing, unit mounting, a neat modification to the defroster duct work, etc.. It was covered in the July and August, 2015 issues. Might be able to look at it on line. Otherwise I'm sure you can buy previous issues by calling them.
FYI..........as Rich knows, I'm also building a Ranchero. Taking me a while to get going, but it is going. Still chasing down some odds and ends parts. Please keep posting updates, as I learn something new each time I look at these updates.
John
Yes, read it with interest, have both issues. I'm playing with the idea of running the lines as much out of sight as I can. Just not sure it would be maintenance friendly.
Good day yesterday. Got the cross member modified. Decided the original set up was not maintenance friendly and need something different. Found a 2000 Explorer 2 wheel drive transmission mount would bolt up to the 93 AOD. Had to move the mount holes on the cross member out 3/8" and filled the old ones. Got the emergency brake system cleaned up, painted and working as it should. The repairs to the chassis for mounting the cross member worked out perfectly. All of it bolted up as if it were stock.
Rod & Custom had a much better install article on a Ranchero before they folded. More in depth and better pics. It was mentioned here before. If you need the article or which issue's it was in let me know.
Hope this helps.
Bill
The article I am referring to is July 2012.
Bill
Bill - I installed the Vintage Air Mark IV unit in my Ranchero with the Sanden compressor (312) and it worked out great. Like you, I did need to remove and block off the left air duct. As you know the Mark IV unit is an under dash unit that very much resembles a 1950-60's style. I was able to retain the stock heater and routed the AC lines using an aluminum bulk head fitting available from Vintage Air. The components in the Mark IV unit are quality and include the evaporator, expansion valve, blower and blower speed/temp controls all built into one unit. It includes adjustable brackets to hang it under the center of the dash.
Quote from: Partsman on 2015-09-16 14:03
The article I am referring to is July 2012.
Bill
Thanks..........just bought the July 2012 issue on E-Bay.
John
Thanks guys for the info.
Got the naked dash back in and the column hung. Very happy with the results. The wheel is 1 1/2" close to the dash then stock. I did want it closer but the final location was half luck and half planning. Sometimes it is good to be lucky!
Going to start the gas tank, found a 93 - 96 F150 rear tank will work out fine. There will be a bunch of fab work....but....I do have more time then money....the floor pans, lower fender patches and rockers will eat a bunch of my "car money"!
Looking good, there Bill. That is about the way mine looks. I used a 63 Marauder box and column in mine, same as Galaxie. This is a good idea for a build thread.
Looking awesome Bill!,I am excited for you
Bill...in hindsight, I wish I had just run the A/C bulkhead on the firwall. The fenders (unless I make a removable cover) didn't hide the lines as much as I had hoped, so the firwall entrance would have worked as well. I'm just gonna have to keep my fingers crossed on the maintenance...I sure don't want to pull that fender off!!
Right now I am leaning on the firewall although running out the kick panel area is very much on the table.
Got the tank install nearly finished. My measurements turned out to be good! A little more research on tanks would have shown the rear tank for a 77 would have a small opening for the sender vice the large EFI pump equipped 93 - 96 F150 tank.
Cut out the spare tire well, made supports and hangers, used the stock Ranchero straps by straightening, shortening and re-bebding to shape. Hung the supports in the opening and then fit the tank.
Still have some trimming to do and run the fill to the stock location and run a vent line from the rollover fitting (hole in the center top of the tank). It is in there solid, does not hit or rub on anything and alomst looks at home.
Nicely done, Bill. Stupid question...where in the Ranchero was the original tank? Behind the seat?For some reason I thought it was where the spare tire well was.
It was underneath the spare tire well, Rich. That's why, that and the side fuel inlet tube, that the Custom and Fairlane tank won't work. Awesome parts swapping there, Bill. Fits like it was made for it.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2015-09-19 17:40
Bill...in hindsight, I wish I had just run the A/C bulkhead on the firwall. The fenders (unless I make a removable cover) didn't hide the lines as much as I had hoped, so the firwall entrance would have worked as well. I'm just gonna have to keep my fingers crossed on the maintenance...I sure don't want to pull that fender off!!
I looked into both options...neither right or wrong. I went with the kick panel bulkhead. I risk fender removal for repairs but not really. The Vintage Air Gen IV Magnum has the fittings pointing straight at the right side A pillar bulkhead. If I had a failure in the receiver dryer, trinary switch, hose, fitting or o-ring, I can service some of these without removing the fender. I may not see what I'm doing...just have to feel my way through it. If I can't do it by feel, I can disconnect the fittings inside the car, remove the HVAC bulkhead adapter lock nuts and slide one hose or all the hoses out and even the receiver dryer and switch attached. I'm fairly comfortable with fender removal not being necessary.
Gasman, could you post a couple of photos of the evaporator and how you mounted it. Did you modify the o.e.m defroster duct, per the Street Rodder article?
Thanks
John
Nice build. In your last pic I noticed a wiper unit that uses a moving cable running through tubing up to the wiper transmissions. I installed that system on my 57 Custom but could not make it work properly. The weak link was the tranmissions which slipped on the cable. What manufacturer did you use and how is it working for you? I finally gave up on my set up and installed a system called Mighty Wiper which works but the blades are too small and the sides are not in sync so I removed it and have gone back to trying to make the original work with my big EFI intake. Real interested in how yours works.
Not much going right now. Car shows, life and yard work (rain and sun make everything grow!) have limited shop time the past two weeks. Put together the small blast cabinet Harbor Freight had on sale (super coupon, $177.00) that turned into an all day project (a gazillion small nuts and screws!).
Got the new rockers and front floor pans from EMS, have them treated with phosphoric acid. Got the shift linkage finished up, the T-Bird column and the AOD are very happy! The detentes in the transmission and the column all hit together!
Need to sand blast a bunch of stuff so I can prime everything with one mix cup of paint
Sounds like stuff is falling into place on the Ranchero. Batching the small stuff for priming is good...except when you find that piece you missed a half hour after everything is sprayed and the gun has been cleaned.
I've had one of those HF blasting cabinets in my backyard for about 3 or 4 years now. If you were closer, I would have given it to you.
Quote from: KYBlueOval on 2015-09-29 06:25
Gasman, could you post a couple of photos of the evaporator and how you mounted it. Did you modify the o.e.m defroster duct, per the Street Rodder article?
Thanks
John
The Vintage Air Gen IV Magnum fits like it was made for this car. There are four studs built into the unit...drill four holds in the firewall and it is a bolt in. I fabbed an easy little bracket at the top of the unit and screwed it to the firewall just below the windshield. I closed off the right side fresh air port and discarded the right fresh air duct work. The VA kit includes universal defrost duct work so the OEM steel dust work is discarded. One thing not mentioned in the install instructions is installing some kind of screen between the dash and the duct work to stop small items sliding on the dash and down the defrost duct work. I've run this system before and am very pleased with it. I am installing just like I have before with the addition of the defrost screen.
Quote from: Kenny on 2015-09-29 09:09
Nice build. In your last pic I noticed a wiper unit that uses a moving cable running through tubing up to the wiper transmissions. I installed that system on my 57 Custom but could not make it work properly. The weak link was the tranmissions which slipped on the cable. What manufacturer did you use and how is it working for you? I finally gave up on my set up and installed a system called Mighty Wiper which works but the blades are too small and the sides are not in sync so I removed it and have gone back to trying to make the original work with my big EFI intake. Real interested in how yours works.
Power Window Specialties (PWS) makes the wiper kit. I called them once to ask questions and got the right stuff the first time...very pleasant to do business. I have little run time on these wipers...only test time. I adjusted the sweep. They run quite. They are challenging to install in a '57 but seem to work well. First time converting and installing those transmissions was tough. If I was to do it again...no problem!
Gary...you too need to start a build thread, although I think the administrators are the only ones that can consolidate and move threads.
Go ahead and start a thread, and I will look through and combine the relevant ones. The one for 57Impostor took a while, because I had to go to when he joined, and there were a lot of posts. Yours shouldn't take long, I don't think. Would be interesting to see all of your stuff on this car though...
There is one in the PROJECT library titled 'FIVE YEARS'. It's difficult to answer a question but stay organized by only posting to the PROJECT library.
Back to the build. Have the shift linkage sorted. The lever on the T-Bird column is 4 1/4" center to center. The transmission lever is 2 1/4" center to center but pointed in the wrong direction. I made a bracket to bolt to the stock AOD (came out of a Cougar) to change the direction (I don't take apart automatics). It took several tries to get the length correct. It turned out to be 3 1/2" center to center and gave perfect detent hits on both.
The head pipes are a modified 71 - 73 Mustang 351C 2bbl H pipe from Dallas Mustangs. I cut the "H" out and fit one side at a time. Pretty happy with how they exit on each side of the transmission. There are several cuts and welds to get the final fit. The biggest was 3 1/2" out of the straight section just below the manifold to get then up over the cross member. I will add the "H" to the exhaust pipes that go aft to the mufflers. Got the steering column plate almost finished, will work on it to install a seal to keep engine bay stuff out of the car.
Think the floor pans could use a touch of bondo and some rattle can and they will be good to go :005:
Good to Go?, lol..Bill, they've already left.
Your downpipe mods seem very much like what I had to do with my Cobra off road pipes I started with.
Yup, a little six pack engineering, many, many, many trips under the car for each pipe, measure many times before the cuts and spot welds until everybody is happy!
Decided the pans can wait a few days/weeks. Have the mufflers on back to the axle, will have the shop finish the over the axle portion later.
Also decided to finish the dash work so it can go back in for a finish test fit then pulled back out to do the pans. Modifying it slightly to take the Moon instruments I purchased in 1996 as Classic lost the rights to "Moon".
Those black faced Moon gauges are gonna look great.
What did you install for mufflers?
Rich the mufflers are Thrush Turbo 2 1/4". Love the sound, have them on the 65 Bird, had them on the 66 Falcon and have them on the 36.
Got the instrument install fitted. Will final trial fit the dash and column before blowing apart to do the pans and rockers.
Nice layout...I like the placement of the two outer gages beyond the normal area. Are you welding the panel in, or removable? I noticed the three small holes...led's behind the holes, or to be opened up to a larger size later, or mounting holes?
Thanks Rich, yes it will be welded in. I moved them out to keep from crowding things too much. Notice my SVT heritage with the tachometer on the right and the "eyes" looking at the center :003:. Have not decided on painting or working up a little engine turned aluminum for a finish. The holes are for LEDs, turn and high beam. I have some that fit perfectly in the 1/8th" holes, just need to solder a resistor and wires to them to keep the 12V from blowing them up!
Been working on cutting out the rust and keeping the good stuff. Not very exciting, very tedious and some what seemingly endless. Decided to break from that and shoot a little primer on the dash and the underside of the pans and rockers.
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2015-11-11 15:25
Been working on cutting out the rust and keeping the good stuff. Not very exciting, very tedious and some what seemingly endless. Decided to break from that and shoot a little primer on the dash and the underside of the pans and rockers.
Dash looks great
Zap- :unitedstates:
That dash really looks cool - very nice work!
Thanks guys......had to take a break with the kid and grandchild here. Did the throttle hook up today, a little 6 pack engineering and the idea came to me.
I'm using the stock 4bbl throttle arm. Heated it in the center to make the engine side arm point up. That turned out pretty good, the engine side just touches the fire wall when the pedal side is just on the floor.
Next i put the pedal side about 1" off the floor, opened the carb wide and used a short hunk of welding rod to get a length to hook things together. Took the short connecting rod, cut it, gas welded the ends to a chunk of brake line. I have a large amount of adjustment built in to that rod.
Here are the results......with the carb closed the spoon is just short of 4" off the floor, at wide open it is just short of 1" off the floor. Think that will do. Have to add a couple of springs to see how it feels but I think it will be good.
Nice engineering, Bill. Did I miss where you had posted what drivetrain you're using, or just need my memory jogged a little?
Rich I have installed a 351C/AOD and plan on running the 3.56 gear that was stock in the car.
Couple of update pics. Not a lot getting done, Thanksgiving, wife to the cardiologist (false alarm but needed done) and my annual physical combined with just everything going on with Christmas most of the shop time was piddly stuff.
Have the floor pan in and bolted back down, little finish welding on it plus some patches on the toe board. Rocker is dumbied in, needs to come back off for rust prevention, hole drilling for the spot welds on the inner and fitting to lower portion of the front quarter.
Big pile for such a little area cut out! Happy with the fit of the EMS rocker and floor pan. Plenty of material for "problem" areas if you have them.
Getting ready to head north for the annual family Christmas visits which means I will enter the "Techno black out zone" for a week!
Back at it. Slow when life gets in the way. At least all the checks of the wife's ticker turned out good!
Got the rocker and quarter repairs in solid. Floor pans turned out to be a little more of a challenge. Turns out I should have ordered the toe board as well! Was going to patch the rear pans but they turned out to be just as bad as the toe board was on the drivers side even though they cleaned up well. They just did not survive the "slam them with a screw driver test" so patching is out! Ordered those today. Still have to do some clean up grinding on the pan. Starting the passenger side tomorrow after the pile of rusted parts is cleaned up. Not too exciting I know, just wanted to let you guys know it is being worked on. Might run the risk of finishing it before I die :<)!
Thanks for the update. Bummer it turned out to be more than you were expecting.
Glad to hear things went well with your wife's tests though!
Excellent progress, I know it's soul destroying when it just seems like an endless task of rust repair. What I do is to completely finish each repair (weld, grind the welds, filler work then primer) so that as you move on, the repair you've just done is pretty much "ready for paint". It then makes the car look as though it's progressing. I find it depressing to finish the last rust repair then have to go all round again grinding, filling, seam sealing etc, etc.
More progress. Once again "life" happened but still got some stuff done. Big part was the undercoating that was sprayed on the interior floor boards and then the jute backed mats put in place. What a mess! Three days part time to clean it all out. All the new metal is treated and primed on the under side, the top (interior side) is treated and ready for seam sealer and primer after the rest of the fab work is done. Now have a clean surface to begin the hole welding and sound deadening. One more patch on the passenger side before the rocker goes in. The front of the hinge pocket on the very bottom (fender bolt area) and the front side was rusted to nothing so that should be the last patch for this end of the car.
looking good. What's that sheet metal piece lying on the floor near the pliers.
Rich it is the piece I made to replace the "rust worm" eaten up part. Not very pretty as I have not finished the "clean up" work. Hope to put the rocker in tomorrow!
I thought maybe that was what it was. I had a similar problem on the driver's side of my car, but not as bad. Oddly enough on mine, the rocker was rusted, but neither of the two panels it's sandwiched between were. Just a heck of a job getting them apart to get the new middle piece in there. You're doing a nice job on the repair, Bill.
Thanks Rich. It is a tough slog, figure out how it is put together, then figure out how to take it apart to get at the "bad" stuff without messing up the rest of the good stuff in the area. But a little "six pack" engineering, a little hammer work, a little cutoff wheel, a little flapper wheel, and multiple fittings the welding it in is almost anti-climatic :<)....but you already know that!
Alrighty then, have the right side rocker, inner rocker, lower cowl, floor pan, and toe board repairs finished up! The remaining part of the rocker and the lower part of the quarter were very good with only three pin holes that welded up really easy. I cut the rocker where I did to give access to the body mount at that location. The inner rocker was almost totally missing to about six inches before that body mount.
Decided I needed a little motivation to continue with the sheet metal repairs so put the dash and steering column back in for a trial fit and look see. They both have to come back out for further mods to the dash, the ash tray is going away, have not decided on location for the sat radio and the middle A/C vent location/style.
Just an example. The center registers could be farther apart for a radio. My radio was a newer style and hidden. It came with a fob to control channels and volume. Picture cut off the outer registers.
Quote from: gasman826 on 2016-02-13 20:42
Just an example. The center registers could be farther apart for a radio. My radio was a newer style and hidden. It came with a fob to control channels and volume. Picture cut off the outer registers.
Gasman, I really like what I can see of this dash. Could you post some additional photos showing the other A/C vents and the gauges. What is the brand or source of the A/C vents and gauges?
Thanks
John
That dash was V2.0 of my Custom. The dash was used for a couple of years...7307.2 miles (still have the Autometer 3-1/8" tach and speedo). The vents are Vintage Air. Picture does not show that the right hand accessory plate was also removed, smoothed and the Vintage Air Gen IV Dakota Digital billet controls were mounted. Unfortunately, no other dash pictures survive. Dash went to scrap a long time ago.
My plans are leaning on vents in the area of the ash tray. Not found any I like yet. Leaning on putting the radio in the same area as the old radio went. The unit I bought will fit in the recess and is a scoash longer then the current control holes. Again none of this is firm yet and yes the Vintage air slide controller will go in the right hand "controle hole" next to the steering column.
Are you thinking of moving the '57 OEM heater controls from the original placement down to the original location for the '57 OEM right vent, choke/lighter controls? Are you modifying the OEM heater controls to look original but upgrade behind the scenes with Vintage Air Slide Pods?
Quote from: gasman826 on 2016-02-14 08:11
That dash was V2.0 of my Custom. The dash was used for a couple of years...7307.2 miles (still have the Autometer 3-1/8" tach and speedo). The vents are Vintage Air. Picture does not show that the right hand accessory plate was also removed, smoothed and the Vintage Air Gen IV Dakota Digital billet controls were mounted. Unfortunately, no other dash pictures survive. Dash went to scrap a long time ago.
Thanks Gary for the information. One last question...........it appears that there were 5 2 1/16" gauges below the Speedometer and Tach. Is that correct? Assuming I know what the usual 4 gauges are, what was the 5th?
Thanks
John
fuel pressure
Gary I'm going to fill the original "control hole" to the right of the column and put the Vintage Air control unit in it. I will angle the top of the filler to match the angle of the dash and center the control unit in the hole. Vintage Air's standard unit for their "compact" HVAC/Defrost is smaller then the current opening. The ignition, head light, and left air vent will stay in left control hole. Given I'm going with an electric wiper motor it's switch will be mounted between the hand brake and hood release pointing down rather then toward the driver.
Borrowed a mock-up HVAC unit from a friend. Vintage Air will supply these for any of their units. Just let me say, setting up the thing with a 10 oz. mock-up unit is far superior to wrestling around a 15 lb. unit!
Made brackets for the front and back side, modified the defrost vent with 2" exhaust pipe, tacked a large fender washer in the top of the cowl for the bracket behind the blower. Welded a 1/4X20 to a small flat 18 gauge and welded it to the fire wall for the rear evaporator end and the front of the evaporator goes to the brace that runs from the bottom of the dash to the top near the center.
This shot is from the rear window near the center seeing how it would look from the seat.
Nice job Bill. Where you were able to poition that is going to make the hookups so much easier than where I had to put mine. Good pics/info for guys doing this later. My setup just wasn't normal, so I wasn't able to help much when guys asked.
Looks great. I installed the GEN IV and it was like it was made for the car. I used the plastic defrost distributers so I didn't have to modify the OEM tin but it looks like you got it figured. The GEN IV is a little different than the GEN II.
First picture is of the firewall prep. OEM heater and right fresh air holes get filled. Four new 1/4" holes for the GEN IV rear bracket.
Picture two is the unit bolted in place. The front VA GEN IV black bracket is included and is also the computer hold-down. The only bracket I had to fab was the little white one that goes from the front bracket to the firewall bulkhead under the windshield. I've driven the car with the unit mounted like this. No squeak, rattle or movement.
Thanks Rich. That moch-up unit made fitting so easy......
Gary that is a good looking fit. Decided against the Gen IV after much looking and talking to friends who have used them. Love the control system of the IV, just could not clear my head of size, capacity, and cost compared to the compact. The area to be cooled in the Ranchero is so small compared to the capacity of the IV.
Cut the front coils, checked the ball joints and bushings, all good, not going to "fix" them. Cleaned and painted the upper control arm and the area under it. Will clean and paint the rest of the chassis after it goes back up in the air. Going to remove all that has been installed to do some detail and finish work.
Put the car back on the ground to turn it around in the shop. Easy to push out and back in to sand and keep the dust and dirt outside!
The springs were 16" tall, 4 3/4" diameter coils with 1 1/2" spacing. They contained 9 coils, the wire is 11/16". Cut off 1 1/2 turns and had a 13 1/3" free height. With 24 " tall tires the front bottom edge of the rocker is 11" off the floor. The frame horn on the front drops 2" when I put my 250 lb butt on the front cross member. Looks like it will be just about where I want it. May have to use 1" - 2" blocks on the rear. Have to wait on that until everything is on the car.
I'd replace the control arm bushings as they are a pain to do later.
Balljoints can be replaced a lot easier.
Ron.
Found the radiator support had the usual rust from battery leaks and old age. Just started with a sharp screw driver poking holes, when it wouldn't go through the metal that is where the cutting started. Only took eight pieces to make the thing look half way correct. Still have the bottoms of the fenders to fix and a couple of small patches under the tail lights to do and then the "finish" body work can start. That does include a gazillion holes in the fire wall, the dash and seat mounts.
My radiator support was the same. I THOUGHT it was okay until I had it shot blasted, I then had to replace the entire lower crossmember part....... After I finished it and painted it I drilled a couple of 3/8" drain holes in it, I temporarily plugged them and filled the crossmember with a mixture of rust proofing was and diesel (10% diesel to make it thinner) and left it for a week, turning the whole thing over now & again so the rust proofing covered everything, I then drained it out.
Looks like good progress Bill, makes me want to get motivated to work on my 57, Mark
Thanks Mark. Right now I'm back to the "dirty" work. Welding up the holes in the fire wall. They are all going to go bye-bye except the master cylinder and the throttle. It is much easier to add holes if needed then to try to "cover or fill" after the paint is on! Car up on stands again for rear removal, dirt and under coating scraping and replacement.
Had family in for a few days so it slows stuff down. Have all the stuff I put in to test and fit pulled out and sitting on the side lines waiting for final cleaning and fire wall paint.
Looking very very nice Bill.
It is coming along Jeff, slow as I'm sure you know. Life has a way of doing things to time....now having said that, I did get the many holes in the fire wall welded up. One day making plugs (mindless work) and fitting them. Next is scrubbing it down with mineral spirits and stainless steel wool, sanding and a skim coat of "surface leveler" and more sanding....
Been making a little progress. Put the first coat of primer on and spent the afternoon sanding, still have 1/3rd to finish before the next coat goes on. Too many bends and crooks and crevices to go around.
Did get the front of the engine fitted. Did not like the stock Ford AC mount, just a big ugly cast iron piece of junk....so into the six pack engineering mode and built one that sets it where I want it to be. Made the mount for the G3 Ford alternator as well. Next is sand blast and powder coat them.
Impressive work on those brackets, Bill. That engine is looking great.
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2016-04-05 22:29
It is coming along Jeff, slow as I'm sure you know. Life has a way of doing things to time....now having said that, I did get the many holes in the fire wall welded up. One day making plugs (mindless work) and fitting them. Next is scrubbing it down with mineral spirits and stainless steel wool, sanding and a skim coat of "surface leveler" and more sanding....
I certainly do Bill....I certainly do. Bracketry looks great Bill.......
Thanks guys, wish I had a TIG so I could have done them with aluminum.....did put some shiny stuff on yesterday afternoon. Now put some of the stuff back on the fire wall and continue with making the engine ready to fire.
Nice work on the front dress Bill. I second you on the TIG, that is a skill I plan to work at as soon as I can score a decent machine. I like the firewall work also, looking great. What is the final color going to be, black?I am going to redo my firewall as soon as I pull the Cleveland out. I only have 3 small holes to fill, then redo the chassis black on the firewall. I had considered doing it red, but I thought it might be too much red.
Bill, is the AC bracket and pulleys part of a kit? Or more 6-pack engineering? Mark
Quote from: Frankenstein57 on 2016-04-29 20:31
Bill, is the AC bracket and pulleys part of a kit? Or more 6-pack engineering? Mark
Nope, six pack engineered.
James the color is an 86 GM color. Looks black until the sun hits a curved part or just right on a flat panel and a really dark red maroon high light comes out. Might regret that as it will need many hours of long boarding to look right. Paint it red, that compartment will be full of really good FE stuff and it will be the center of attention!
Will try to get some pics up tomorrow. Have the front half of the frame cleaned, brushed, and painted. 351/AOD in place, TV cable and throttle linkage ready, fuel line to the Holley in. Working the rear end (3.56), springs and brakes. Lot of just plain ol dirty work to take care of.....
Nothing new for a long day on my back with a scraper, 3M rubberized undercoating, and a can of chassis black. Did shoot a couple of pics of what will be seen and to show me that I am getting this elephant cut up and eaten!
Made the jump for a disc/power booster kit. Got the booster installed, had to re-man the mounting bracket for the proportioning valve, the one that was in the kit just would not set right. Have all the brake lines run except the right front. Will continue with that tomorrow. Did get the 63 Bird seat frames modified and one side mounted, for got to take a picture of that. Will work on getting better at taking pics as I go along.
Nice set up, and great job on the lines. What's the booster?
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2016-05-15 21:59
Made the jump for a disc/power booster kit. Got the booster installed, had to re-man the mounting bracket for the proportioning valve, the one that was in the kit just would not set right. Have all the brake lines run except the right front. Will continue with that tomorrow. Did get the 63 Bird seat frames modified and one side mounted, for got to take a picture of that. Will work on getting better at taking pics as I go along.
I'd really like to see what you are doing in regards to mounting the '63 T bird seats, as I have '66 T bird seats for my Ranchero.
Thanks
John
Rich it is a 8" dual diaghram, no idea if it is a "stock off shelf" item or not. Got the kit from Ford Classic Car Parts.
John the 66 seats should be easier to install then the 63s. The floor flange on yours is flat, the 61 - 63 flanges are contoured to fit a two level floor. I will post pics as I modify the drivers side and mount it to the floor. The flanges had to be modified to make the seat lower as well. I will know after the drivers side is in along with the steering wheel if they need to be down more.
Neat installation there! I've got the same on mine and I know what you mean about the mounting bracket for the proportioning valve, I thought it was for a different set-up it was so far out!
I have '63 Thunderbird seats in the '57 Custom. I cut spacers from steel tubing to get the seat just right for me.
These are the seats out of the parts car I have. The car is on jack stands for a bunch of "under" it work and leveled. The seats were too tall for me so off to the drawing board. The irregular shaped mount was easy as I wanted to lower them. I cut off 1" and welded in a 1" X 1/8" strap.
Put it in place using the rear original seat mount hole and leveled the frame up with washers. Got happy with how it set and made spacers out of 1/2" pipe based on the height of the washer stack to keep it level. (I don't think our cars have a level spot on the floor pans!)
Very happy with the seating position, wheel is in the right place and it sits comfortably with respect to reach and foot controls.
The greatest thing about building your own car...you make it fit you.
Did you lower the steering wheel from the stock height? I am having trouble with this. I bought a 26 inch long ididit tilt column, but I want to run an original style steering wheel. So far I haven't found an adapter to do this.
If I went with the original column, I guess I could lower it some from stock height. Is that what you did here to fit yourself?
I did not. The column is a 63 Bird. Between it, the 64 Galaxie box and rag joint it is 2" closer to the dash. The wheel is smaller diameter then the stock 57 wheel.
Pic shows the column in the stock dash.
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2016-05-17 08:05
These are the seats out of the parts car I have. The car is on jack stands for a bunch of "under" it work and leveled. The seats were too tall for me so off to the drawing board. The irregular shaped mount was easy as I wanted to lower them. I cut off 1" and welded in a 1" X 1/8" strap.
Put it in place using the rear original seat mount hole and leveled the frame up with washers. Got happy with how it set and made spacers out of 1/2" pipe based on the height of the washer stack to keep it level. (I don't think our cars have a level spot on the floor pans!)
Thanks for the photos and description of what you did and how you did it. My Ranchero has some rusty rear floor pans , and I've contemplated cutting all of the depressed area out from behind the seats and welding in a flat panel. That depressed floor serves no purpose in a Ranchero, that I can see. I think it will make the seat installation somewhat easier. And I believe it will be easier to install carpet on a flat floor. What do you think? Opinions and comments are welcome.
John
I cut the rear foot wells out of my Custom for more muffler and frame modification room. It does reduce passenger comfort. But, what do I care, I'm not going to ride back there!!
John you're going to have to make brackets of some kind even with the rear floors flat. The floor pan seams to "tilt" from the center tunnel to the rockers. It drops about 3/4" from the center. I welded a large washer over the hole for the rear seat mount and still needed almost 1" of spacer there. The part of the floor under the seat runs flat and slightly down hill near the tunnel. Best bet is to put the seat track on the floor after you do the rear pan fix and use a level to true it up.
My test for seating position in a build is to grab a couple of beers and sit down in the car. If you can sit for a half hour or so and not squirm around better then even odds the driving position is good.
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2016-05-18 08:18
John you're going to have to make brackets of some kind even with the rear floors flat. The floor pan seams to "tilt" from the center tunnel to the rockers. It drops about 3/4" from the center. I welded a large washer over the hole for the rear seat mount and still needed almost 1" of spacer there. The part of the floor under the seat runs flat and slightly down hill near the tunnel. Best bet is to put the seat track on the floor after you do the rear pan fix and use a level to true it up.
My test for seating position in a build is to grab a couple of beers and sit down in the car. If you can sit for a half hour or so and not squirm around better then even odds the driving position is good.
Thanks for your reply as well as that from Gasman. I had and have a pretty good idea as to what I would be facing in cutting out the depressed area and making it relatively flat. Your detailed explanation will no doubt be helpful when I get to that point. Part of my reason for asking about doing this was to see if there was some reason not to do it, that I had perhaps over looked. I always like to hear from those that are more knowledgeable than I and have "been there done that", before. Helps keep me from doing it twice or regretting what I did, or didn't do.
So far, no one has said, Don't do it because.............
Thanks
John
John...when you get to making the brackets, have a look at uni-strut if the 1 1/2 or so height is in the range of what you need. Perfect for seat rails imho..cheap, lots of heavy duty cheap hardware available, and make for easy additional adjustments. It's what I used to mount my Mitsubishi seats with. Lowes or Home Depot in the electrical dept.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2016-05-19 08:06
John...when you get to making the brackets, have a look at uni-strut if the 1 1/2 or so height is in the range of what you need. Perfect for seat rails imho..cheap, lots of heavy duty cheap hardware available, and make for easy additional adjustments. It's what I used to mount my Mitsubishi seats with. Lowes or Home Depot in the electrical dept.
Rich..........can you expand on what "uni-strut" is so I have an Idea of what I'm looking for at Home Dumpo or Lowes.
Thanks
John
Uni-Strut
Got the Exhaust manifolds aluminum oxide (80 grit) blasted for the application of the ceramic coating. It is a product Columbia Coatings sells. Air dries in 24 hours and is fully cured in 5 days. It is said to be a real high temp ceramic coating, good up to 1700*.
Also cleaned and blasted the brackets and powder coated them with Columbia Coatings "Almost chrome". Look pretty good, not too shinny but nice and clean.
Got to love it when a plan comes together! Engine is nearly ready to fire, brake lines, gas lines, exhaust to the axle, and drive shaft all back in the car. Have finalized the dash board plans. It, the radiator mount (just got the new Champion 3 row aluminum ), gas tank, and transmission cooling lines are next....then the looooong body work process!
Nothing technical to add here Sir, but Jeepers Kreepers, that is an awesome mill. This is for sure another top 10, if not, TOPS when you get her fired up. Very, very well done. You guys are nuts. :) LOL
Wow, Bill...I totally missed the posts with all the powder coated parts. That's looking awesome. Wished I had looked into that stuff before I finished putting mine together....or maybe not, lol.
So, the ceramic coating on the manifolds is just air dry, but the rest is normal powder coat/oven?
You seem to be moving along at speed on the build, bill.
John...also didn't see your follow up question on the Uni-Strut...sorry. Thanks BW for posting that info. The Uni strut Is usually in the electrical department...it's a heavy channel...about 6 foot lengths if I remember..maybe 8', with lots of cheap, hd hardware. Used by electricians and plumbers to mount/hang commercial units.
Yes the ceramic is air dry. We'll see how it performs when the engine gets them heated up. Use the old electric oven I took out of this house when I put a gas range in for the powder coating. Put wheels on it so it is very mobile, makes good storage place as well.
My routine for the week allows me 4 - 6 hours a day in the shop. The build is really going slower then I had hoped. Life needs to be attended to and I have three other "old" cars to keep running. Seam to have this problem with selling..... :003:
I love the powder coating. Prep is pretty much the same as painting and after the 20 minute bake time it is done. Much more durable then paint, resist chipping and gouges from fasteners. If I have a large part it is done in the oven with the door open and a heavy quilt thrown over the frame I hang parts on to coat. Has done a good job so far.
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2016-05-29 09:09
Yes the ceramic is air dry. We'll see how it performs when the engine gets them heated up. Use the old electric oven I took out of this house when I put a gas range in for the powder coating. Put wheels on it so it is very mobile, makes good storage place as well.
My routine for the week allows me 4 - 6 hours a day in the shop. The build is really going slower then I had hoped. Life needs to be attended to and I have three other "old" cars to keep running. Seam to have this problem with selling..... :003:
I love the powder coating. Prep is pretty much the same as painting and after the 20 minute bake time it is done. Much more durable then paint, resist chipping and gouges from fasteners. If I have a large part it is done in the oven with the door open and a heavy quilt thrown over the frame I hang parts on to coat. Has done a good job so far.
Looks really nice sir. Can tell us what color is the Air Dried Ceramic paint? I've gone to the Columbia Coatings website and there are several Air Dry colors that have a "Silver" color. Their pricing starts at 2 ozs.. Do you thin it.........or is it sprayable right out of the can?How much did it take to do the exhaust manifolds?
Thanks
John
"Glacier Silver Ceramic" is what is on the bottle. It is sprayed right out of the bottle. Used my touch up gun. It took one 2 oz bottle to put two wet coats on each manifold.
Their instructions are a PITA.....in that they want you to clean them really good, bake at 250, use 100 - 80 grit aluminum oxide to blast, bake again after blowing any dust off them all while wearing rubber gloves, then spray using a support system so nothing "bumps" into them for 24 hours. They dry to the touch in a very short period of time. Only after painting instructions are, first cure at 24 hours, full cure after five days. I did do all they asked. We'll see how good it is!
Good info...thanks. Could you clarify the "It took one 2 oz bottle to put two wet coats on each manifold"......is that 2oz per manifold for a total of 4?
2 oz did both. They are stock 351C 2bbl cast iron manifolds. They do not recommend thinning or using any solvent other then theirs. Acetone to clean up the gun.
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2016-05-30 07:55
"Glacier Silver Ceramic" is what is on the bottle. It is sprayed right out of the bottle. Used my touch up gun. It took one 2 oz bottle to put two wet coats on each manifold.
Their instructions are a PITA.....in that they want you to clean them really good, bake at 250, use 100 - 80 grit aluminum oxide to blast, bake again after blowing any dust off them all while wearing rubber gloves, then spray using a support system so nothing "bumps" into them for 24 hours. They dry to the touch in a very short period of time. Only after painting instructions are, first cure at 24 hours, full cure after five days. I did do all they asked. We'll see how good it is!
Thank you.
John
Solved a little issue I was having. Wanted the turn and high beam lights to be small and un intrusive. Doing a little belly button pondering and six pack engineering found that the 57 dash lights plug into a 1/2" conduit. Next was colors. Found colored LEDs on ebay that plug into the socket. Problem solved, green for the turns and red for the high beams!
Thinking outside the box again, Bill?
Pretty clever.
Ron Francis, jfyi, has led lights in both bright and dim in a variety of sizes and bulb colors. However, I think I used a wrong one for my high beams. My turn signal leds are a perfect brightness, but the hi beam burns a hole in your forhead.
Got the radiator support modified. I did not feel comfortable with only 3/8" clearance between the radiator and the fan. I sectioned the mount flanges 3/4" and trimmed about 1/2" off the pinch weld. Test fitting went well, sanding for paint...finger prints are gone!
Forgot, radiator is a Champion aluminum, 3 core. Friend has used them in two cars and gave rave reviews. $208 to the house.
Got the inner fenders in primer ready for their first blocking. Welded up all the holes that will not be used, welded studs on the back side to support the wires and hoses that will be run in the fender well rather then in the engine bay. Put paint on the radiator support and the little brackets that mount the inner panels. The shot of the one bracket kinda shows how the paint will look in the sun. Really hard to capture the flash of the red pearl.
Nice job!
In the art framing world we'd call that a grey violet...I like it, gonna look sharp with the red metalics. I assume that's an exterior color as well?
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2016-06-12 15:48
I assume that's an exterior color as well?
Thanks Rich, it is the exterior color. Might regret that decision when the long board comes out. It is black until the sun hits it.....
Longboarding / blocking.......is it me? I haven't really done anything other than my '57, but I think I spend more time working the curves and transitional areas that can't be longboarded than areas that can be. It seems almost everything on these cars is transitioning from one size/shape to another. I figured out a long time ago "straight as an arrow" doesn't apply to these cars.
I found a set of soft sanding blocks years ago that made life much easier...called "soft sanders". the set of 8 covers most of the curved shapes. They're a foam block, won't last forever, and I wore out my first set...was happy to find another at the Pace swap meet in April.
I do have several "home made" blocking tools for those areas that the long board just will not work.
Put some shinney stuff on the inner fenders.
I'm thinking I'm gonna like that color a lot.
Put the "shiny stuff" on the car. Put the radiator in, very happy with the fit! The 3/4" section job on the support worked well. Did have to reroute some brake lines off the distribution block. No big deal, just got out the bender again.....
I see you had the same problem I had with the right side inner fenderwell, that "dimpling" of the metal around the battery tray location from decades of battery acid, mine was so bad I ended up finding another one out in a pile of front end parts out in the country that was in far better shape than mine even after sitting out in the weather for over 20 years, glass beading took care of all the surface rust.
Ya, it cleaned up very well and was solid when all is said and done. Would have made a new piece if it wasn't so solid. Decided not to "body work" the area because the box will sit on it. Going with an Optima so the box is waiting it's turn for modification.
Looks great Bill. It's progressing along nicely.
Had a little work to catch up with. When disassembling the front end to check/repair stuff got a little surprise. The sway bar was broken. So.....found a 58 Edsel Pacer front sway bar and installed it today. Had to make a couple of brackets to mount it to the frame. Easy as pie. 2" square X 1/8" trimmed to the width of the sway bar mount, cut off to look like a "L", drilled the holes for the mount, welded nuts on the back side, installed the whole thing, spotted the brackets, took everything out and welded them to the chassis. Trimmed the cut off part to weld on the other end of the "L" to reinforce the bracket. The large hole in front of the lower control arm bump stop is for the links. Fits really nice.
Forgot this last picture of the bracket welded in. Old timers I guess:<)
I guess that explains the reason for the unused holes in the lower control arms when they are on OEM Fords....It's been so long since I've paid attention to a stock setup, I forget where the original sway bar mounted on the control arms.
That little slot in the front side of the control arm is the original mounting for the end of the stock sway bar. Not sure why the 57 control arms had the hole for the sway bar link. Building the Edsel and doing the research for it found that it is a 57/58 Ford with different sheet metal on the front and back. So when the broken sway bar showed up I figured I'd just go ahead and locate an Edsel bar. I suspect the 59 Ford bar would fit as well. Just need to weld brackets on.
Wrapping up the gas tank today. Will take a shot of it in the hole when done. Forgot to shoot pics as I went along on it.
I have been a slacker with respect to taking pictures! The tank modifications went so fast and well I just got on a role and finished the mods. Still need the fill neck finished but the tank is mounted, vented, roll over protection in the vent, leak tested, and plumbed into the gas line going forward.
Wire brushed the surface, treated, shot with chrome followed with clear to give the "look". Rubber on the straps and the top, ground wire ready to go. Not real pretty but should serve well.
Life does go on.....Been a couple of weeks since my last update. Had daughter and grand daughter in for two weeks, wife went to WI to visit, grass continues to grow and buried a long time friend and fellow hot rodder.
So with limited time and access to the shop a lot of little "stuff" has been finished up. Got the battery box modified and powder coated, got the hood hinges apart and coated, got the horns apart, cleaned painted and back together and the air cleaner assembly re-finished from black to what you see.
No pics of the numerous holes welded up from the old snaps that held the bed cover and the many 5/16 rusted up nuts tapped and cleaned up.
Next will be the repair of the area under the tail gate, couple of patch panels required there.
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2016-07-29 16:25
Life does go on.....Been a couple of weeks since my last update. Had daughter and grand daughter in for two weeks, wife went to WI to visit, grass continues to grow and buried a long time friend and fellow hot rodder.
So with limited time and access to the shop a lot of little "stuff" has been finished up. Got the battery box modified and powder coated, got the hood hinges apart and coated, got the horns apart, cleaned painted and back together and the air cleaner assembly re-finished from black to what you see.
No pics of the numerous holes welded up from the old snaps that held the bed cover and the many 5/16 rusted up nuts tapped and cleaned up.
Next will be the repair of the area under the tail gate, couple of patch panels required there.
I sure would appreciate some photos of your "under the tail gate" repairs as I have those same repairs to do to my Ranchero.
Thanks
John
2x on pictures of the 'under tailgate repairs'. I'm gathering parts to rebuild the wagon's 40-year old, poorly done rear-end accident repairs.
Looks like there were accident repairs on this one as well. That was prior to the pan under the gate being pushed up against the rear cross member! The old cross member was partially cut out and up so it came out. Put in a new piece using a trimmed down thick wall 2" X 4" tubing. Used a home made spreader to push the pan out and many hours of hammer/dolly work to shrink up the stretched portions. Still have a little more work on it. While working it found the area under the tail light was eaten up and "repaired" with bondo. Made the two patches (many hours with a hammer and anvil for the piece under the tail light) and have them welded in. Still need some clean up work there before the sand blasting begins.
Looks good! Did you replace the tailpan with a used one or was yours a different shade? My hinge, boxed in area looks straight and undamaged but the tailpan area is really trashed and full of filler...really thick filler. Since tailpans are a rust and/or collision damage area, a used one would be rare. I'm considering one of those reproduction panels for a Custom and modifying it to fit.
No, it is the original pan. The hinge area and the flat part where I bolted the tank supports to is in good shape. The pan it's self was bent in, touching the rear cross member. I haven't figured out how many hours I have working that panel but I think it is a bunch. Used a pick and dolly to shrink the stretched parts, haven't put heat on it yet, that will be the last step if I'm not happy with the metal work. While the damage is a little hard to see it was a mess! The bondo repairs were under the tail light.
I did try to find a replacement panel and even a partial but had no luck. Hadn't thought about the Custom pan, might be that would work.
Mine had also rotted away beneath the tail lights and suffered a Bondo "repair" so I feel your pain! Good progress, there's a lot of people who would have been scared away by the rust.
Trying to figure out what's going on with the tail light housings...from a Fairlane?
Yup....they were on the car, was going to build a "Fairlane" style Ranchero, 500 fins, 2drth doors etc. until I figured out it would be a shame to "mess up" an already great style....plus the work required was very frightening! Wasn't sure I could hone my skills enough to get there from here.
Been working on a bunch of little stuff that really is not photo worth. Getting ready to put in the AC/Heater lines, finishing the dash (ready for final block) and closing up about 10,000 holes (factory installed under the bed stainless) that let water into the quarters.
Have the dash ready for final block, had to put the stuff in it to keep things going! Did paint the under side white to eliminate the "dark hole" the wiring is in.
Made brackets to mount the condenser. Looks like it will be good. Bought the largest that would fit, will run the lines and update that as soon as I get the two fittings I ordered.
Funny thing, (really sad when you get right down to it), tried to purchase a #8 135* male bead lock fitting. Every parts house in the Birmingham area except one looked at me like I was from outer space! All of them had no idea what the heck I was talking about! The one guy that did says "we no longer stock those fittings".
Any how, here are the pics....
All looking good. I like your dash mods. I'm not quite sure about the different arrangement for your A/C, only because the left side is oem. I'm thinking once the steering wheel is in, it's gonna flow alot better though. I really like your gage arrangement.
I have the biggest posible condenser as well...I think Vintage Air's second largest they make. Had a hell of a time routing the lines from it. The hydraulic hood lift conversion I did helped a ton there as there is nothing extending below the hood hinge bracket. I still ended up having to get a high dollar right angle fitting to make it work.....not a whole lot of room between the condenser outlet and the hinge bracket to make a turn.
Thanks Rich. The hose routing will be off the compressor to between the radiator and the support. The #8 will go to the 135* I'm waiting on, the #10 return line will go through the inner fender in front of the battery, back through the inner at the top and then down into the kick panel. The #6 will go up to the drier which will be in the area in front of the battery, through the inner fender and follow the same route as the #10. A dry run looks like it will all fit.
The dash is back in for the center console build. Hoses are all run, need to put her back up in the air to run transmission cooling lines (last of the fluid line replacement) and do a last check of all fasteners and fittings. Dryer would not fit in front of the battery so it moved to the inner fender. The bracket holds the hoses of the tire and is mounted with the battery box fasteners.
The bed was sand blasted prior to me purchasing the car. Got an estimate to have it redone and will haul it there because I can't run and get sand, spend countless hours with my pea shooter in 90* plus heat and clean up the mess for a buck and a quarter!
Made covers for the two body mounts in the bed. Just never figured why Ford would put a "cup" that holds dirt and water so I replaced the hardware and welded the covers in place.
All looks great. I'm impressed with the speed you're getting things done once you finally got around to working steady on it.
Couple of more shots I failed to down load as life got in the way.....again!
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2016-08-28 07:48
The dash is back in for the center console build. Hoses are all run, need to put her back up in the air to run transmission cooling lines (last of the fluid line replacement) and do a last check of all fasteners and fittings. Dryer would not fit in front of the battery so it moved to the inner fender. The bracket holds the hoses of the tire and is mounted with the battery box fasteners.
The bed was sand blasted prior to me purchasing the car. Got an estimate to have it redone and will haul it there because I can't run and get sand, spend countless hours with my pea shooter in 90* plus heat and clean up the mess for a buck and a quarter!
Made covers for the two body mounts in the bed. Just never figured why Ford would put a "cup" that holds dirt and water so I replaced the hardware and welded the covers in place.
Ford Blue Blood.........I've had the same question about the two Ranchero Body Mounts in the bed that hold water and dirt and wondered what I could do. Did you do anything else to the bolt etc., or just install the bolt and washers etc., and weld the cover in.
I'm wondering about taking it apart in the future. Don't want to even think about taking it apart again, but stranger things have happened.
Thanks
John
Used the ol heat wrench to blow out the old bolt head, ground the shank flat, center punched, drilled (slow long process), punched and pried the remains out, dropped in a new 1/2" bolt and tightened down, spot welded the head to the bed and put the cover on. The new bolt will stay with the bed if it ever comes apart but I'm now worried about that as I expect the car will be around after I'm long gone!
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2016-08-31 08:31
Used the ol heat wrench to blow out the old bolt head, ground the shank flat, center punched, drilled (slow long process), punched and pried the remains out, dropped in a new 1/2" bolt and tightened down, spot welded the head to the bed and put the cover on. The new bolt will stay with the bed if it ever comes apart but I'm now worried about that as I expect the car will be around after I'm long gone!
Ford Blue Blood............thanks for the reply, it is exactly what I thought it would be. Don't see another way to do it. My body is off the frame so I've already done that PITA part of getting those two bolts out. On reassembly, I'll follow your lead and weld a bolt in place.
Thanks
John
I think 90% of the body parts trap dirt and water. No thought to longevity :005:, they wanted you to buy a new one every few years :003:
Yep, those two cups almost seem to be factory designed to start the rust! I made sure mine were well painted then I gave both a good polish to keep them water-resistant, but each time I wash it I use a sponge to soak the water out of them. In hindsight I wished I'd drilled a small hole in them and installed some kind of drain tube.
Been working on getting the center consul fabricated up. Welded in mounts to hold it and to help make it "square". Level and center line marks got that part real close. Made the basic frame in two pieces. Couple of ins and outs to get things right. Then made a template for the sides. That went extremely well. Traced it on the plywood, doubled it up to make both sides exactly the same and cut them out and got the final shape with a DA and 80 grit. Glued and screwed, still have some final "tweaking" but the base is good to go. The large holes are for future cup holders and access to the mounting bolts.
The A/C out let is a 65 Bird part. Have not decided if it will tilt up a little or be vertical, Need to ponder a little before the final supports goes in. Have not firmed up metal or upholstery for the center finish at this point.
Nice design and execution...looking forward to seeing it finished.
Been messing with the wiring and working on getting the engine ready to fire. Timing is set, oil in and primed, all "wet" lines finished. Mounted the fuse panel in/under the console, sorted the "rats nest" for routing, have the engine wired and ready. Ran the engine wires out the bell housing bolt access hole and down and under. Most all will be out of sight when all is done. Slow working with the detail stuff but worth the time later....
I like the location for the fuse panel, much more convenient than under the dash. If I had been going for a more modern approach, I would have borrowed that idea. Since mine is very old school, it is under the dash on the far left. I welded a bracket to the kick panel area and bolted the fuse panel to it. It mounts high and out of the way
Very very nice Bill.
Found that as age creeps in the ol body just will not bend and twist as easily as when I was young and bullet proof! Did this on a buddies street rod I assisted with and loved it. Have finished all the under hood wiring, have the console frame finished, and just had to put on a little "bling" to enhance the smile. 7 X 15 from Summit, fit perfect.
That's a great looking wheel....Summit brand?
Not sure...have to dig out the invoice. Did half a day shopping for them. Wanted the Cragar SS style but way too expensive for the Cragars. Ended up with the Summit site and followed the many recommendations for size from this site. Very happy with them and Summit. They are one piece polished aluminum. Bought the lug nut kit as well.
Have finished the rough in console build. Have not decided on interior color yet or whether or not to paint the metal center. That will have to wait....
Been working the wiring some more. Made a small panel to mount a terminal board and relays for "run" and "ACC" in order to lighten the load on the ignition switch, head light relays as I have Halogen head lights. Without the relay they would burn up the light switch. Park lights will come on when in run. The head/park/turn lights and the horn are run out the kick panel to the front. Used a welding rod to hold them up. Have the preliminary wiring for the dash completed. Plenty of "spare" wire to terminate with plugs at their destination. Set up to leave the wiring in place (except the speed-o and tack signals) if the dash has to ever come out. It will come out with the center console in place, have to drop the steering wheel though.
and the dash.....
Awesome Bill.
Very neat. I really did try to keep the wiring neat behind my dash when I did mine, but as my old school teacher would say "try harder next time"......
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2016-09-27 08:21
That's a great looking wheel....Summit brand?
Wheels are American Racing (VN5155765), exact size and off set as recommended by many folks on this site. Many, many thanks to those who went before with the "does this one fit" trials.
I guess my "wiring mania" comes from working on electronics for thirty plus years and from the electrical inspectors when doing Habitat for Humanity houses. Keeping things tied together and neat prevents tons of potential failures.
I use relays to take the load off the ignition switch. It was designed for maybe three circuits, our builds end up with close to twenty. I will be running Halogen head lights, relays for them. Can't tell you how many head light switches I have replaced for folks over the years that had those on the car and no relays to keep the load off the switch.
Got the bed sand blasted and up in self etching primer. Not crazy about the color but my paint guy strongly recommended the stuff as a solid base for the work to follow. Plenty of that! Getting it all cleaned reveled plenty of "hickeys" that need attention prior to paint! A good coat of urethane high build is next followed by a butt load of blocking and some hammer work with more primer and blocking. This is fun?
I thought so 10 years ago, lol. Looking great, Bill.
I know what your in for, hours of hammer and dolly work and a lot of sanding. What I did as far as sanding bondo and blocking the primer was cut one of the hard rubber sanding blocks the width of the recessed grooves in the bed floor and tailgate panel worked pretty good, any thing to try and make it easier.
When building the 66 Falcon Ranchero the bed floor needed as much work as this one does. It took only a short period of time to figure out normal blocking and folding of the paper would take an extended life time to get it ready for paint. Made a new tool for the blocking. A 2 X 4 with slightly rounded edges covered with very thin foam to take the self sticky paper would fit the recesses perfectly. So that tool was added to my drawer of home made tools and will be used again!
Now all it needs is some hardware so you can attach it to a sabre saw!
Boy, I remember this bit well on mine............ I was convinced the inner wheel wells were straight until I started to block-flat the primer, the previous owner must have been throwing bricks into the back! It's never ending, I was tempted so many times to think "that will do" but I just kept going and I'm glad I did now.
Got some more shinny stuff on yesterday. The dash is ready for assembly and installation. After it is installed I will be pulling off for a couple of weeks, need to clean up the yard and some of the junk laying around. The 63 Bird (parts car) needs to go along with a 2001 AWD Explorer that was to be used as parts for the 60 Ranch wagon.
The last picture does a fair job of showing how the paint behaves in direct sun light.
Looking great, Bill.
Yep on the yard thing here as well. Waiting for my neighbor/contractor to come in December and build us a new fence in the backyard. Tired of looking at all my junk AND the neighbor's as well. LOL...one of the downfalls of living in a city. So, in the meantime, I've been clearing up the back and filling the dumpster on a regular basis.
Thanks Rich, my place is at the end of a dead end street. If you stop by you're seriously lost or here on purpose, you don't just stumble by. As a result the "stuff" tends to be put on the back burner. So every now and then the "field day" event has to happen.
save the rear end and sway bar out of the Explorer.
Gary had planned on that. It is a 3:73 T-lock.
Got the dash assembled and ready for install. That bad boy picked up a little weight with all the stuff in it! Will need a buddy to assist. Pretty happy with the looks, turned out how I thought it would. The moon eyes and sat radio are a little out of sync, but overall happy with it.
Looks great!
The only way to work on a dash.
I also struggled with my design vision and contemporary faceplates for modern, aftermarket electronics like gauges, radios, HVAC, air ride controls, power window switches, EFI, so on and so on
Been a long couple of weeks with little work in the shop. Had a great Thanksgiving, house full of family, many laughs, some gorging, too much pie and ice cream, and now piece and quiet.
Got the dash mounted without incident. Will work on hooking up the gauge wires, mounting the light and ignition switch, hooking up the AC wires, and finishing the radio install. Pics to follow.
I know I typed a response to that pic of the dash last month...must have forgot to hit the "post" button...happens daily, lol. Anyway, I really like the looks. I'ts gonna be sharp!
Spent the week (part time) in the shop. Got all the wiring hooked up and tested. The turn signal and high beam indicators turned out just perfect! Used the 1/2" conduit, stock 57 light bulb sockets, and LEDs. They shine very nicely when hot. Used blue LEDs in the gauges (sorry, from China, couldn't find USA made) and love the look. Horn works, light wires get hot as they should, fuel gauge responds, and the volt gauge says all is well. Engine turns over with the key. Next is fill the transmission, add water, bleed the brakes, and fire the thing off with a nurse tank, it will be after Christmas, will be entering the "techno black out zone" in a few days, that and getting ready for the trip will eat up a bunch of time. This might be my last progress update until after the new year.
Looks great Bill. Have a great trip up North for Christmas.
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2016-12-07 17:43
Spent the week (part time) in the shop. Got all the wiring hooked up and tested. The turn signal and high beam indicators turned out just perfect! Used the 1/2" conduit, stock 57 light bulb sockets, and LEDs. They shine very nicely when hot. Used blue LEDs in the gauges (sorry, from China, couldn't find USA made) and love the look. Horn works, light wires get hot as they should, fuel gauge responds, and the volt gauge says all is well. Engine turns over with the key. Next is fill the transmission, add water, bleed the brakes, and fire the thing off with a nurse tank, it will be after Christmas, will be entering the "techno black out zone" in a few days, that and getting ready for the trip will eat up a bunch of time. This might be my last progress update until after the new year.
Bill..............P.M. sent you you sir.
Thanks
John
Been a long slow month! Had two "house" issues to fix. Took two weeks to get all that done.
Been "harvesting" parts for the Ranchero from my stash left over from the 300 I parted a couple years ago.
The doors are aligned and alignment holes drilled to put them back in the same spot after paint goes on. Cleaning and lubing the window regulators, door latches and mechanism, lock cylinders and linkages. As a bye note, found the key code on the passenger door lock finger (the little fork thingy that goes between the cylinder and the latch mechanism).
Cut holes in the panel under the bed to mount the speakers. They will go in the bed side under the bed. Pics to follow, (camera battery was dead and is charging).
Alrighty then......picture of the back panel sanded, cleaned, and painted after the openings were cut in for the speakers. One on each side.
The tape on the door was put on before all the sheet metal replacement was started. I used it to check the "fit" on both sides as rusty stuff was cut out and after the new was spotted in prior to final welding. The shift in alignment is a result of fitting/gapping the doors after all new panels were welded in and the car has had several ups and downs on the jack stands. Figured any "settling" would be done by now.
1/8" reference hole are then drilled to ensure the doors go back in exactly as they were after painting is done. Greatly reduces the chance of "hickies" when reassembling.
I seldom endorse a product but feel I should with this one. It is a rust remover. Found through using it over the last six months the best method for cleaning the rust. I first wire brush the heavy, flaky rust off. Soak overnight in the stuff.
Comes out looking black/gray.
Wire brush them again and the parts are ready for prime and paint.
All the parts in the pictures were covered with mild to heavy surface rust.
good to know
I wonder if it's sold in 55 Gallon drums. Gonna need it for my Ranchwagon.
Everything is looking good......still trying to figure out your speaker placement though. Is this an in-the-bed tailgate party thing?
Quote from: Mavaholic on 2017-01-29 17:16
I wonder if it's sold in 55 Gallon drums. Gonna need it for my Ranchwagon.
That's a very good question. I know that it comes in 5 gallon containers and also in containers needing water to be added. My local auto parts store gets $22 + for a gallon ready mixed.
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2017-01-28 11:45
Alrighty then......picture of the back panel sanded, cleaned, and painted after the openings were cut in for the speakers. One on each side.
As I look at your photo, I'm pretty sure the speakers are in the panel below the rear window, and below the truck bed level, with the speaker protruding into that open space below the truck bed and behind the panel, below the rear window, that joins the floor. My Ranchero, builtin San Jose Ca. has a matched pair of large openings in this same area where I believe you have located your speakers. When I say large, they are 20" X 6". Not a perfect rectangle.........as the opening approaches the drive shaft tunnel, the opening slopes up at an angle. I'm confident they are "Factory" openings as there is a stamped edge completely around the opening, and both left and right are identical in shape and size, but reversed for left and right sides. I've seen some Rancheros like mine and some with a solid panel, which is what I believe you have.
Anyone know why they are different? Perhaps different plants?
Amen to the Evaporust product. I've been using it for years and it's the best rust removal product of any I've tried. I do recommend using it in a closed container because it does evavorate if left open. Nice work or your Ranchero, thanks for posting photos.
Amen to the Evaporust product. I've been using it for years and it's the best rust removal product of any I've tried. I do recommend using it in a closed container because it does evavorate if left open. Nice work or your Ranchero, thanks for posting photos.
My Ranchero, built in San Diego, does not have the "tool box" openings. Mine was an early production run. Decided to put the speakers in that location because I just don't like them in the doors. Don't even ask why, have no idea where that little hang up came from!
Saw the Evaporust on one of those TV car shows and thought I would give it a try. Like that it is not caustic, it is kind to skin, and is bio degradable. Have not killed the first hunk of grass in front of my shop!
Been cleaning and de-rusting every thing that will go back in the car after paint. I think I have all the bits and pieces now thanks to Rich.
Started working on the door panels. Cut them out of thin plywood. Still have to locate the arm rest holes but that will happen when I decide on them. In the mean time got my finish scheme figured out. Going to use 64 - 65 Bird door trim. Almost a perfect fit.
The upper portion of the trim that goes under the door handle needs to be flattened out. After that it then reaches the very bottom of the window garnish. That turned out to be a "fall in it and come smelling like a rose" as I had no idea before I started. I like it but just created a bunch of extra work....oh well.
I see smooth, padded upholstery above the wide trim, horizontal pleats the same width as the seat pleats below and carpet under the thin piece. Thinking a light tan or a heavy cream with a slight pearl in it as the 61 - 63 Birds had.
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2017-01-30 07:40
My Ranchero, built in San Diego, does not have the "tool box" openings. Mine was an early production run. Decided to put the speakers in that location because I just don't like them in the doors. Don't even ask why, have no idea where that little hang up came from!
Saw the Evaporust on one of those TV car shows and thought I would give it a try. Like that it is not caustic, it is kind to skin, and is bio degradable. Have not killed the first hunk of grass in front of my shop!
Somehow I missed this post earlier. I have the speaker in door phobia also :003: Right now I just have mine in boxes laying on the floor behind the seat, they sound great but I like your idea and that would free up space for more junk. I had no idea they had tool box doors, I have never seen them..
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2017-01-29 15:52
I seldom endorse a product but feel I should with this one. It is a rust remover. Found through using it over the last six months the best method for cleaning the rust. I first wire brush the heavy, flaky rust off. Soak overnight in the stuff.
Comes out looking black/gray.
Wire brush them again and the parts are ready for prime and paint.
All the parts in the pictures were covered with mild to heavy surface rust.
I have used this same product and have had the same results. All Good! Small parts I put in a container and rubber band a cover of Saran Wrap over it to keep it from evaporating. As it will evaporate, as previously stated in one of these posts.
Recently a friend sent me information on another rust removal product. I have not used it, so I can't comment on its claims, but it looks very promising. the web site is ultraone.com They have a rust removal product and a degreaser. Watch the rust removal video. My friend bought a gallon of the rust removal product, and he and I will "test drive it" and I'll post the results. I urge you to look at the rust removal video. Rather impressive.
Bill, I like your upholstery scheme alot.
Been slow because of the weather. Sanded off multiple layers of paint on both quarters. Found no surprises on the right side. Some surface rust, no holes and no dents. Happy!
Drivers side is a different story. Looks like the entire quarter was replaced at one time in it's storied past. When doing the floors and the rockers on the drivers side the floor just behind the jam had a bunch of wrinkles in it. The fit at the tail gate was off by a full 3/8" at the top. Found evidence of gas welding (no brass) where spots should have been. Suspicions were confirmed when I found no factory sealer on the entire quarter. Had a bunch of red oxide primer and several layers of paint. Add that to the fact the door is off a different car (paint under stuff on it is not the same color as the rest of the car) and the stainless was put back on before the top coats were applied tells me it was hit on the drivers side and repaired fairly well with respect to body damage. How it got to the finish (I use that term lightly) that was on it is beyond me! Good news, surface rust only!
I'd rather repair dents than rust anyday....even better when neither are required.
Been slow, life and warm weather. Spent two more days working the tail. Lots of "picking" to shrink the dent. Got it down to a skim coat of "surface leveling" material. Will find out how good my metal work is when blocking and paint happen!
Got the gas tank fill tube finished up. Copper and steel and rubber 2" gas hose. Had to section the original fill tube and twist the bend just a touch when I welded it back together. The original tube is odd sized, welded a hunk of 2" exhaust pipe to the end to take the rubber hose.
When I cleaned out the area where the fill tube comes out found some brass work confirming the quarter was replaced in the past.
Nice work all around, Bill. Still hoping to see it in person before too long.....not sure when I'll be able to do Florida and catch you on the way. Good thing I didn't go as planned. That was the week of all the really bad storms. maybe this fall.
Been working on finish body work. There were 18 snap hole along each rail edge. Got them welded, ground down and filled. Very tedious but worth the effort. Both quarters are ready for the first blocking along with the ribbed section of the bed floor. The entire bed was blasted many years ago and left out with no paint so after my recent re-blasting there are many deep pits covering the entire thing. Sanded the green paint down, shot a coat of primer, spent two days smearing bondo and one full day sanding and a second coat of primer. Now comes the polyester spot putty and more sanding. Some times I just have to wonder why.....but then after the shinny stuff goes on.....
Fit the tail gate. Have it latching and fitting pretty good. Did find out I need the passenger side strap that holds the gate when lowered. Not sure why that little item was not taken care of years ago but the hunt is on.
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2017-05-04 08:08
Been working on finish body work. There were 18 snap hole along each rail edge.
Mine had the same, man they took ages to weld up & finish off, I actually forgot about them until I was about to shoot the primer!
Quote from: Limey57 on 2017-05-06 17:07
Mine had the same, man they took ages to weld up & finish off, I actually forgot about them until I was about to shoot the primer!
I've got the same situation with my Ranchero. And yes, it takes a lot of time to fix them.
Been working on a bunch of little stuff. Not much photo worthy at this point. Still have to work out the inner tail gate panel as it needs some serious "tweaking" for proper fit. Got the "third eye" figured out. Picked up a 4" LED assembly, cut a hole in the perfectly good stainless that goes on the top back of the cab and mounted it there. A little nervous about doing the cut as these are a little harder to find. Did the same on my Edsel but I found a good "extra" just incase....
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2017-05-24 14:38
Been working on a bunch of little stuff. Not much photo worthy at this point. Still have to work out the inner tail gate panel as it needs some serious "tweaking" for proper fit. Got the "third eye" figured out. Picked up a 4" LED assembly, cut a hole in the perfectly good stainless that goes on the top back of the cab and mounted it there. A little nervous about doing the cut as these are a little harder to find. Did the same on my Edsel but I found a good "extra" just incase....
Oh......I like that a lot! I've been wondering how I could add a Third Brake Light to my Ranchero. You have solved it! Could you please tell me what the 4 inch LED assembly is , brand or part number and / or where you purchased it ?
Thanks
John
Nicely done. I recently added led tail light bulbs, what a difference they made, the new tail lights are brighter then the old brake lights and the brake lights are really bright..
Quote from: KYBlueOval on 2017-05-25 05:17
Oh......I like that a lot! I've been wondering how I could add a Third Brake Light to my Ranchero. You have solved it! Could you please tell me what the 4 inch LED assembly is , brand or part number and / or where you purchased it ?
Thanks
John
Here ya go John....
https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=TD%2D4R
The Edsel is a Ron Francis item as well. I used the 4" because of the slight curve the stainless has and I wanted the light to stay in the recess.
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2017-05-25 08:23
Here ya go John....
https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=TD%2D4R
The Edsel is a Ron Francis item as well. I used the 4" because of the slight curve the stainless has and I wanted the light to stay in the recess.
Thank you Bill !
Can't tell you how much I like what you did.
John
Thanks John.
A little mind numbing work while waiting for the grass to dry out after our what seemed like a "40 days and 40 nights" event.
Nice work all around, Bill. I really like the 3rd brake light as well.
What kinda shape are your 2 upper corner trim pieces? If I'm not mistaken, they are steel/chrome, usually rusted pretty thoroughly.
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2017-05-26 12:04
Thanks John.
A little mind numbing work while waiting for the grass to dry out after our what seemed like a "40 days and 40 nights" event.
Yes..........mind numbing work,your results are great. I'm not looking forward to sanding and polishing my trim, but you give me inspiration.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2017-05-26 17:23
Nice work all around, Bill. I really like the 3rd brake light as well.
What kinda shape are your 2 upper corner trim pieces? If I'm not mistaken, they are steel/chrome, usually rusted pretty thoroughly.
Thanks Rich, yes the upper corners are plated steel. I bought a pair a few years ago, they have been wrapped in paper and stored in the attic of the shop (hot and dry) and have a couple of rust bubbles popping out. Not sure they were all that well done. Will look at re-plating/replacing as time grows closer to needing them.
John the work is slow. Bought the buffer and kit from Eastwood when they had a big sale going. The info they send with it is invaluable. Read, practice, read and practice. Still takes me too long to get the nice finish but am learning as I go.
Aside from dangerous, it IS a very time consuming operation. I averaged more than 3 or 4 hours at the buffer with each piece! And that was after hours of hand work. I'm sure you know, the wider the wheel you're using, the less apt to catch an edge and wrap whatever you're working on around the spindle. been there....done that!!
I also am happy my Harbor Freight buffer has just enough power to get the job done.......another safety thing for me. I'd be scared to death using a buffer with so much power that it won't bog down if something goes wrong.
Right on Rich! I learned a cheap lesson years ago when buffing stainless for a 62 Bird. I was at my buddies place in TN. He was giving lessons on "how to do it" when the wheel snatched a long fender piece out of my hands and sailed it to his back fence, almost 50 ft. As luck would have it the piece landed on the grass flat, not a single dent or scratch. He advised to always buff on the bottom of the wheel and that lesson stuck with me! Have the tail gate and two long side pieces left to do.
Been a while since any work has been accomplished. Summer started out with a bunch of travel and has ended with a medical issue. While it could have been serious it looks like things are under control.
Mean ol mr prostrate has enlarged causing urine to back up into the kidneys causing them much trauma. Had the hither region assaulted with a 3/4" garden hose and some drugs to shrink that bad boy and instructions to drink 1 & 1/2 gallons of water a day. The garden hose is most uncomfortable and limits movement some so garage work has come to a screaming halt. The assault on the prostate limits sitting time so I have turned into a lounge lizard and it is making me nuts! I do "push it" and pay later with discomfort. Now having said all of that, numbers are getting better, kidneys are moving towards recovery, I'm happy, the doctor is happy and the prognosis is good.
I have decided to post this because I am 70, have had perfect health over my entire life. Have never been down with the bug or a bad cold. Did my do diligence with check ups and as a result the problem was caught fairly early on. Us men have this thing that mother nature plays a trick with. Happens to many, can be fatal, and needs to be watched. Get your "finger wave" and check ups semi-annually and if you develop "peeing problems" get them checked!
Preach it Brother Bill. I was diagnosed with prostate cancer in December last year and had my prostate removed in February of this year. The cancer had left the prostate and was against my bladder. I had to find a new doctor 3 years ago and he told me he didn't do dre's until there were symptoms and that the psa was just a number. At the insistence of my wife, he did agree to a psa test and then got real concerned when it came back at 19. In 3 years my psa went from 2.3 to 19. My advise is to be vigilant about prostate health and get it checked before you end up in my situation where the prostate is gone but the cancer isn't. Early detection is a life saver.
As time goes by I am healing slowly. Been slow in the shop but have been working on sanding the scratches out of the bed stainless and getting other parts ready to put the Ranchero back together after the paint goes on this spring. Still have to buff three bed pieces and the side trim. Next will be the vent windows/frames. Preps for Christmas have also slowed things down but plan on hitting it hard after we return from WI.
The grill was a "rescue" from ebay, $100 shipped. Got it because it looked so bad in the pictures. Had no rust on the front and very little on the back side. Had a bunch of what looked like Permatex non hardening sealer "painted" on it. Lucky find!
The parking light and tail light housings were soaked in the de-rusting solution, sprayed with self etching primer and then "chrome" paint. Put new bullet connectors on all and tested with the new bulbs. Cleaned and de-rusted the head light buckets, buffed the retainer rings and tested them as well.
Wow, totally missed your old post on the medical issues, and of course Redwhitered's also. Glad to hear your improving, Bill. Gotta be scary. Hope all is well up in Kansas too.
That grille looks great, as do the headlight buckets. When I assembled my rechromed grille, I spent an hour or so carefully brushing por-15 on the backside of it just for some added protection.
What kind of bulbs are those? Halogen's? I'm thinking of switching my halogens for LEDs, or at least a higher output halogen.
Rich they are H4 halogen. Very good producers of light.
Got them from a fellow who complained that his light switch was so hot it burned his finger. Guy that built the car put them in wired through the light switch. Goes without saying the current draw was way too high for the switch. The switch was close to total failure when he called me. Turns out he did not want to install relays to handle the current so he swapped out the H4s for regular bulbs and I installed a new headlight switch for him.
He insisted on paying me and I refused, so he said for me to take the lights. I did wire up the headlight circuit with two 30 amp relays to run them!
Been making some progress. Got a bunch of small stuff sand blasted and painted. Not much to show with a picture. Weather finally got warm enough to paint so they are all up in primer. Got the interior floor insulated and masked off to get the jambs cleaned, primed and ready for paint. Just keeping on with keeping on until this little (enlarged) prostate issue is resolved....:<)
Work continues SLOWLY. Got a bunch of sanding done. That went well until the finger tips gave out. Grabbed the long board and started blocking the quarters.
Got the urge to build the hood I've been planning for a couple of years. Gathered the hood inner structure, a 63 T-Bird hood, and a rusted out in the nose hood for the rear most portion to build a hood that goes along with the Bird seats and steering column.
Built a set of bucks to hold and square up the inner structure while welding. Cut, trimmed and spot welded the "new" skin in place. After that a bunch more trimming and then the seemingly endless hammer and dolly to fold the lip.
Now do the finish welding, sand down, prime, and block......will it ever end!
great work ! loving the T bird hood !
so surprising how close to fitting those early and mid '60s TBird hood skins are to '57 hood. Still, not for the novice. Great job! When I was looking for the chrome insert for a '65, I remember finding NOS suppliers with the early '60s NOS insert.
your usual super work, Bill. That's going to look sharp, and that rear quarter is looking straight!
What are the plans for the Ranchero after it's finished? I see a guy occasionally at our monthly cruise here that last month told me he had been looking for a Ranchero off and on for 10 years. I told him I'd let him know if I saw anything, but then forgot to get his phone number after I gave him mine.
This is something that I will be doing as well. Acquired the '63 T Bird hood about a year ago, and two weeks ago, I was given a very good '57 hood. My lucky day. I really appreciate the photos.........they help me a lot in visualizing how to do this. Great work sir. On my way to Orange Beach this summer, maybe I could stop in and take a look at your Ranchero and get some pointers.
John
Thanks much guys. Was going to cut the scoop off the 63 and graft it to the 57 hood. The 63 hood was leaning against the two 57 hoods I have and I noticed the shape was really close. Turns out there was less then 1/8" gap between the 57 frame and the 63 skin. I decided to cut the 63 skin and see how it fit on the 57 frame and if it was not as good as it seamed I could then cut the scoop off and graft it. After clamping it down and getting no buckles I decided to do the skin job. The little "bump" at the tail end of the 63 scoop just before it fades into a flat surface is the same height as the bump at the rear of the 57 hood. Some times it is good to be lucky! I will paint both the stock hood and the "Bird" hood when I do the car.
John you're welcome any time.
Gary I have a bunch of 61 - 63 Bird stuff left over from the 62 build I did several years ago.
Rich, no plans for it at this time. Might just get caught up in the "herd thinning" as that will be my 4th classic to maintain! Have this little problem with not being able to part with them after all the blood, sweat, and tears are completed! Not sure if I have many/any more builds left in me?
Got the quarters blocked along with the jams. Got second coat of primer on ready for the second blocking.
Put some shiny stuff on the back side of a couple of parts.....:<)
I'm still catching up on all the threads on here and I have to say that hood is very impressive!
Outstanding Bill.
Bunch of "long board" work and removal of finger prints and a fine manicure (at no cost) with 400 and the second blocking is done on the quarters, door jams, windshield frame, and rear panel. One more application of primer and the final blocking with 600 and it will be ready for shiny stuff to the jams! Roof is close to ready for it's first primer application, then seal the drip rails and seam above the windshield.
Looking good, Bill. Was this the build you had a color for that changed in different lighting/viewing angles?
Yes it is. In the shop it looks almost black. Outside in the sun it is very dark, almost black, until the sun hits it and the pear and flake jump out through the dark red. Said back then I might regret going with such a dark color, proving out to be the case. The smallest of low spots bug the doo doo out of me at this point. I know, it is my anal approach to making things as good as I can and it is heightened by the dark color. We are very close to being ready for the dark color. Just hope the doors and tail gate are as close to perfect as they seam right now.
Got the primer on, ready for the final blocking. Be a day or two before that happens. Put it back on the ground to do the roof, seal the rain gutter, block the roof, then some shiny stuff!
Front splash pan was ready for paint. Hit it while waiting for the primer to cure. Pretty happy with the results.
That's so pretty in all lighting!
Thanks Rich, saw it on a 32 Ford coupe and fell in love with it. He was kind enough to tell me the code and I saved it for all these years. It is an 86 Caddy color, "dark red metallic" is it's official mane.
Got the roof, jams, and back window area painted. Still have lots of "primer dust" to clean up. Next is the doors. Get them jammed and mounted so I can close off the interior when more paint goes on.
Looks great, it looks black in one photo, it should look real sharp when you're done. Thanks for posting the photos of your progress.
When you Installed your engine, Did you make your own mounts ? Looking at the pic's I can't tell. The 64 box really does open up some space. My 400 pic compared to your 351 pic with the old box tells me that the 400 is a little wider or my 400 is a little to the left. Or maybe to low in the cradle. I have never tried to redesign/ build a car like you guy's are doing here. I have done two complete frame off restorations. This will be my first. When I see FE's with headers, 460"s with headers this should work with a 400.
The mounts are stock 63 - 64 Galaxie 289. They are spaced 3/8" off the stock 57 saddles and 1/2" off the engine block. Reason for the spacers is the 351C pan is deeper and I was not comfortable with moving the engine forward to get a comfortable amount of clearance.
I read all 17 pages last night. You are very good at this. That hood project, I don't know that I could accomplish that kind of both skill and craftsmanship. I hope your doing well. When you write about the distance off the mount, engine and a spacer could you tell me the direction from the mount you went 3/8 and 1/2 on the block ? Where is the spacer and what kind ? Or are you saying that you used the factory 57 stands and the 64 motor mounts are what you spaced to both center and raise your engine ? I do know about forward clearance I had to replace the radiator and installed a new fan. I have 3/4 inch between them. Fan clears crank pulley by 1/2 inch.
Quote from: Charter on 2018-05-17 07:40
I read all 17 pages last night. You are very good at this.
Yes, he definetly is. Bill was one of my main go-to guys here during the many years of my build. lol, I remember years ago telling Bill to talk to me like he was teaching a 12 year old, worked out very well.
Thanks Rich. I'm where you were year's ago. I won't feel like a pest now. LOL. There is alot I need to learn with this type of build. Honestly I thought this would be easy. Man was I wrong. Not knowing what a 57 is compared to a 68 takes my knowledge back a few steps.
Pest?? Naw, that's what forums are all about. If anyone was a pest here, I've got 7500 plus posts!! They got there from asking tons of questions.
You guys are making me blush! Thanks for the compliments.
No such thing as a pest here! I don't think there is a single person on this board that would not share what they know or have learned. Many have learned the hard way. Big thing is....don't lay down if the first try don't work. I learned a long time ago that you can put a butt load of material on the garage floor for the cost of one hours labor!
Charter, the frame brackets are stock 57 Ford. The 3/8" spacer is simply a chunk of plate. It is between the frame and the 63 - 64 motor mount. A single stud from the mount goes in the top hole on the frame. The 1/2" spacer between the mount and boss on the block is again just flat plate drilled and trimmed down to catch full contact with the machined boss on the block.
Might as well update my health situation. Had the old garden hose in for 6 months trying to get the ol prostate to shrink down. No joy. VA ran a test, doc said the bladder went south and I would be living with self catheterization for the rest of my life. Went for a second opinion, that doc said it looked like her conclusion was "probably" correct....but....he recommended surgery to eliminate any possible obstruction. I went for it and happy to say I can now pee! In addition to that I am able to empty my bladder! The procedure is called a bipolar TURP, one procedure for a roto rotor job. The pathology report came back all negative so there is no cancer in there either! So now we are in the "take it easy while recovering" mode of operation. For us old guys, keep an eye on the pee stream and the PSA, it can kill you if you don't!
That's great news, Bill! That makes my day. I'm curious if the second opinion was also VA. I can't say enough good about the care my wife has received from them or the expensive outside services they have sent her to (and paid for) over the years.
That's great, Bill! Always, always get a 2nd opinion. It's good to remember there are doctors out there who graduated at the bottom of their class, and even the good ones are not infallible. Also, the car is coming along great!
Rich the second was at Urology Specialist in Alabama. Hooked up with one of the best strictly by accident. Found the group looking on the net, I was directed to him just by the luck of the draw (he is one of six in the group). Researched him and found him to be in the top 25 in the nation. If I stayed with the VA I would still be with the garden hose. It took two months to get the bladder test scheduled. She (VA Doc) did not recommend surgery because of "failing" the bladder test. He said there really was nothing to lose so.
My complaint with the VA here in Birmingham is too many patients and not enough doctors. My GP care has been good. Second thing is the VA will not bill Tricare for Life for the 20% I have to pay that much because of my military retirement and an annuity that I put together after the Navy.
Last but not least, been over doing it working around the house and in the shop. Doc said you need to back off. Normal recovery is six to eight weeks and then gradually work into heavy lifting and arduous activities. Just so tired of laying about, but I've got to be good and follow orders....:<)
Being a woman veteran, I suspect my wife gets better and faster care simply because there are not so many lined up waiting. For the most part, the women's center here is separate from the main hospital.
Sounds like it's a good time for a non strenuous lengthy road trip!
While "taking it easy" I did get a couple of things done. Got the rest of the bed stainless polished, got the windshield and rear window stainless polished, got the rubber and stainless mounted on both the rear window and the windshield. Forgot to show what I did the mount the Sirius XM antenna so here is a picture of it. Forgive the dust....please? I used a large cold chisel to put a dent in the turndown to keep the stainless from pinching the antenna cable. Cleaned it up with a round file. The cable will slide up and down when the stainless is screwed down tight.
While waiting on my "glass guy" to bring back the vent windows I decided to cover the center console I built. Two days of cutting, gluing, trimming, and final trimming it came out OK. Just finished up the cover for the little package box, it is curing right now so no pics. When I do the rebuild of the vents windows I'll post pics on how to "fix" the channel.
That's coming along nicely, Bill. Console looks great...........maybe needs one of those big red toggle switches with the flip cover. What are your plans for the seats?
Seats will be re-foamed and covered with the same material as the console. I will add a little extra to the bolsters to make them closer to a real "bucket" then the stock seats (63 Bird) are.
Couple of buddies came over today, drink coffee, shoot breezes, look at car parts and then install the back window and the windshield. Both roped in no sweat
Life is full of little surprises! Went in for the final check with the prostate thing, after the all clear I decided to go get the eyes done. Been two years since the last look. Turns out they both had pretty bad cataracts. Just got the second one done, no heavy lifting, no strenuous activity for two weeks....:<(
So back to piddly stuff again. Got the glass for the vents. Decided to rebuild them. Took everything off, cleaned and buffed the stainless. Cleaned out the old rotten "fuzzies" from the channel. Installed the vent seal. How to do the back edge with those little rivets? Finally figured a way to take care of that. Made a tool to set them. A real pain in the butt but it worked.
I learned a long time ago that the loop portion of Velcro does a fantastic job re-lining the channel. First I use the little wire brush to really clean out the junk. After all the old material is out the channel gets washed with lacquer thinner and followed up with a denatured alcohol rinse. The clean surface allows the self sticky Velcro to really hold on.
I then cut strips of the Velcro to lay in. I do the bottom first. Use a screen door roller to press it down then lay in the sides. If you get too much up on the rolled edge a razor blade will run down the groove to trim it up.
Rest of the pictures. The last one just will not focus up right but it looks like new channel in person.
Wash, rinse, and repeat for the other side! Tedious but it all works.
If any of you want to borrow the little tool let me know and we can move it around to whom ever needs it or would like to try it.
Neat tool. That conical point for the for the hollow rivets should roll the flare out nicely. That point is pretty much the same as that on a transfer punch, and that's what I used. I just set the assembly over a 5/16 (?) x 2" parallel bar held in a vise.Then wacked it with the transfer punch.
I'm glad you posted pics of the velcro install. I knew that's what you used, but I never would have guessed you did the back and sides separately. Makes sense though when you think about an aggressive adhesive making it really difficult to push into place as one piece.
Nice job.
Been doing a bunch of "little stuff", not much excitement in sanding, priming, sanding, and then shooting paint! Got all the interior trim items painted. The doors are stripped down ready for more sanding, priming, sanding, blocking, priming......you know the drill.
Want the tail gate to be smooth. Been thinking on how to open. Finally came up with a solution. Made a latch similar to early door latches. Works well and will now allow me to smooth out the gate.
Got the latch tested and cleaned up a little, now cut a hole in the tail gate cover.....happy with the results. Now just finish up with some cosmetic work and on to getting the hood ready for paint.
Nice bit of engineering and fabrication there Bill! I love the cleaned up look to our cars
Quick update....besides sanding and blocking....filled all the fluids up, brakes bleed, radiator full of anti freeze and distilled water, engine full of break-in oil, and transmission filled up. Had a little timing issue, got it put back on time, placed a "nurse" tank on the fuel pump, primed the carb and fired the beast up. Did the 20 minute run in for the cam. Happy, temp went up to 200 (190 T-stat) sitting in the garage with the ambient temperature at 93 and stayed there. Oil pressure jumped up to 68 and held steady during the run-in. Only one small leak and that was the front seal of the transmission. It made a 3" spot on the floor then stopped. Got the idle set down to 650, oil dropped to 50, temperature held steady at 200. Looks like all systems are working as they should. Will put it back on the ground and move it under it's own power for the first time in only God know how long. Don't know how or have the gear for putting up a video.
Side note, the manifolds are perfect. I covered them with an air cure ceramic coating, had no idea how they would do. No smoking, no color change, they look as nice as they did the day I put them back on the engine. The info on that is in this thread.
Questions about the air cure ceramic coating. How much was required for your manifolds? How was it applied ? Rattle can, spray gun? What type gun????
Sounds like a good thing for header coating.
"Glacier Silver Ceramic" is what is on the bottle. It is sprayed right out of the bottle. Used my touch up gun. It took one 2 oz bottle to put two wet coats on each manifold.
This is a Columbia Coatings product. The 2oz. bottle was $20. Bought two just in case. Took just a little under one bottle after following the directions. Put on a light coat first, after it flashes spray a second wet coat.
I'll post a picture of one of them, a before and after the run in.
OK, the before is in the build, here are what they look like after a 30 minute run in followed the next day with 45 minutes of run. Sorry for the delay, life has a way of making plans go south......
Been a challenge working in the 90+ heat but am making progress. Got the doors striped down ready for primer, got the tail gate "open" thing working flawlessly so it is time to remove the old tail gate handle. Went fairly well. Given I don't have a planishing tool I spent an hour with a body hammer, my welding table and shaped the fill piece. Got it right, used it as a template to cut out the latch indent. Made a piece to fill the key hole too. Welded it in and did some of the body work. Got it real close with a skim coat. Striped it down ready for the first coat of primer.
Shot the first coat of primer on the doors and tail gate. Now the fun begins....after mean ol mr sun gets gone curing and shrinking everything....blocking and trying to keep sweat from dripping on it!
Looking great, Bill.
Yep, sweat.....along with fly specks, ketchup, etc., all that organic stuff is the reason I keep telling guys to use both water based cleaners and solvent based to get everything.
Got back from yet one more road trip last Thursday. Wife's 50th class reunion. Seams like I've been doing nothing but driving around the country this year! Not going anywhere the month of November thank goodness! Back on the Ranchero. Four days with my lovely long board.....:<)
Got the doors and tail gate blocked, coat of primer, guide coat, 120 dry on the long board, coat of primer, guide coat, 220 on the long board, coat of primer, guide coat and 400 on the long board. They are now ready for the final 600 block and paint. Cleaned and sanded the jambs with 400 and shot color. Was going to take a picture while out in the sun but mean ol mr. weather dictated they get moved indoors to cure.
While getting the doors ready to hang imagine my surprise when the door weather strip came up about a foot short! Did a quick check of the part # and the order form. All was correct. They are a Dennis Carpenter item. Bought them from Concours, called and talked with Robert. Great guy, helped, had me measure the length (160"), checked the length of a set they had (174") and looked up the invoice (2016) and said a new set would go out UPS today along with a return shipping label for the incorrect seals. My guess is they are for a 4 dr sdn and just packaged wrong at Carpenters.
Looking great Bill. I'm envious..........hope some day, mine looks as good as yours.
John
Agreed Bill.. outstanding...... love the color.
yep yep yep! Looking great. lol, I've been procrastinating a year or two putting my door seals back on.....hope your shorties was just a fluke. I'd better dig them out and have a look.
Decided to put the seals on with the doors off. Much easier to get the front edge right. Will leave the little area where the stainless screw and the lock clamp are hidden under it loose until they are installed.
Got the new seals today, layed them out on the doors and they are the correct parts! :<) Got the tail gate panel painted, the top piece, and the very top of the gate so I can put it together tomorrow before the storms set in. Pics to follow.
Got the seals installed on the doors, went well and they fit as expected! Assembled the tail gate. That went well also.
Hung the doors today. Had to build a "bracket" to hold the doors in place while I lined up the guild holes I drilled. It would take two guys holding them to get it all lined up without scuffing the paint. Just pulled the pad out of the floor jack, a 3/4" deep well 1/2" drive fit in the hole perfectly.
Have a strap pulling the doors shut to get the new seals "adjusted" before putting the door latch in. Saves wear and tear on the latch having them set early on.
I cussed at my door seals for a year until I discovered it wasn't the seals that were making shutting difficult, it was the windlace and thick-in-places door panel. I still haven't put my door seals back on after the repaint, and have figured out the windlace keeps the wind out.........duh....aptly named!
Alrighty then, the "new" lower front fender patch panels are going in. Have both fenders cut, trimmed, waiting on "paint weather" to get all sealed up. Fit is really good, only a slight bit of trimming required. The only ? thing is the over lap runs into the fender edge and the rear edge needs to be butt welded because of the inner brace. Only little minor little irritants compared to their earlier patches.
The 4" is a reference point to ensure proper placement of the patch. It was marked from the top hole in the fender to inner fender flange. The rear edge of the patch is a no brainer as it pulls up tight to the inner brace.
Forgot to mention....the picture of the right fender with the patch in place....notice it is labeled "Left".....they both had the labels reversed from EMS......sure am glad I was able to figure it out....:<)
I wonder how they got the doors to close so nice when they rolled all shiny and new off the assembly line. I guess the rubber door seals aren't quite the same dimensions as originals?
Been slow, life and all that.....Back at it again.....Got the frenched headlights figured out. Was not real fond of the examples I saw at various places so did a little "6 pack engineering". Figured that I could sink the entire assembly and have a basically stock headlight set up with all the adjustment and such retained.
Got a plan and it worked. Made the little brackets, eight of them identical with respect to the depth they would sink the cut out mount for the bucket. Spotted them in, did a trial fit of the cut out flange, everything centered up as I had hoped. Got everything welded in and assembled the headlight. Like it, fits as it should and it looks OK.
And the final fit.....
Looks Great Bill!
Very nice clean look.
Thanks guys, this elephant is getting smaller - one bite at a time......
OK, as some of you may know I have had an issue with the 351C not wanting to run. It started and ran for cam brake-in, started and ran again for another 20 minutes. Turned it off. Week latter started it up, idled just fine and shut off on it's own. Did not restart and hasn't for a couple of months. Went through the entire engine including pulling the timing cover (those familiar with 351C know what a PITA doing that with the engine in the car!) to verify cam timing. All was good. Ran compression checks, average of 150 between all eight, checked the distributor gear, it was good. New cap, rotor, and carb, still no fire? After verifying all was as it should be I was to the point of loosing my mind. Finally cranked the engine with the coil wire watching the spark. It was a "hit and miss" spark. Strong, but not hitting as it should. Decided to put in a new set of points which were the last thing from my mind because it was a new re-built distributor and HAPPY DAYS ARE HERE AGAIN! Runs like a top, hits on the first turn and idles down as it should. So, on to putting the rest of the stuff on the front of the engine and getting on with the build.
Time to finish the fenders, get the bed closed up, and start the long board endless sanding in preps for paint. Had a couple of celebratory brews and a cigar and closed up the shop for the day!
Well that's just awesome, Bill. I had no doubt.
recently had similar scenario. Car ran fine after owner did tune-up. After some miles, shut itself off...DOA. I checked and set dwell and checked points for pitting...looked good...they were new! Got my new SnapOn timing light out...hooked up and nothing. My first thought was one, I didn't know how to use the light or two, it was broken. Then, like a flash it hit me that a bad condenser will kill or erratically short the points. I broke out a 50 year old set of NOS points and condenser, installed, set the dwell and it fired off and idled perfectly. The new NEW doesn't always mean good anymore!!!
Let's see if it works without the pic I referenced at the bottom.
**********************************************
Quote from: gasman826 on 2019-06-25 18:10...had similar scenario. ...
Trying to fire up a 302 that had been sitting for a long time & had no spark. Everything looked good. Points looked pretty good but sanded the contacts a little just to be sure. Still no spark. Finally rotated the crank to where the points were closed. Checked continuity between each side of the points & got none. More sanding of the contacts got me nothing. How strange. Replaced the points & fired it up.
BTW, I believe that 302 distributor is the one that I put a set of slightly altered Chevy points into. Reason being is that, having never had one of those brand X machines, I found out that you could set the dwell externally thru a window on the side of the brand X distributor. Just drilled a small hole in the side of the 302 distributor to access the allen head adjusting screw on the brand X points & covered it with electrical tape. It was all amazingly easy to do & made it very easy to always keep the dwell right on spec.
But lets just blame that 1st lack of spark on them Chevy points. :003:
This pic shows another thing I found decades ago that over time will kill spark.
Distributor pic. Been round & round trying to find what the problem was in not being able to post this before. Still don't know.
Yes, had the same thing happen last year on my truck 390, cheap ass Chinese condenser, ran for 30 minutes and shut down. I have talked to people who have had them dead right out of the box...
Alrighty then, engine tuned, fluids filled, oil is oiling, alt is alting, temp is temping, the tranny is trannying, and the idle is set ay 700 RPM. 15" vacuum, no runs, drips or errors! Have to check out the brakes prior to a test drive. When that happens it will be the first time since I don't know when it has moved under it's own power!
Congrats........keep us posted.
Well, finally got some time in on the Ranchero. Not very exciting but between the tire explosion, wife medical issues, NSRA Nationals, family visit, temps in the high 90s and just life in general some progress has been made. I have the tail gate jammed in (sorry forgot to take pictures), fitted, adjusted and ready to stay in place.
The bed had a bunch "use marks" that have been worked out and the first coat of high build primer is on. Got up early to beat the heat and stop sweat from dripping all over the thing! Got the wheel well strips, fill panels and the little trim at the end of the quarters prepped as well. Now we start the blocking process, re-spray and block again. Been working on it while the fenders wait for a little cooler temperatures to work out doors.
Looks really good, went through the same thing on mine. Most people wouldn't take the time to do what your doing, they spray bed liner over the dents or stick a tonneau cover on it. Its a lot of work but worth it in the end.
Thats really nice. Mine was already sprayed with liner when I got it, wasn't happy about it but it has worked out well for hauling stuff more then a few times.
It's all in the details, as they say. It's going to make a big difference on the finished product.
Little more progress, little more boring stuff. The weather has really put a cramp on things. Can only paint in the morning before the temps hit 90+. Spend the afternoons sanding, wiping sweat off, drinking water and blowing dust out of the shop. The materials I have work well into the mid to hi 80s. After that the paint seams to come out of the gun already dried. Just will not lay down nice like I like it to do!
Got the hood underside shot, fairly happy with it. The bed floor is ready for a second blocking. Got the rest of the bed blocked out and ready for paint.
Last work on the thing until October. Heading out of town Wednesday for the frozen tundra.....
After much pondering I have decided that I would like the Ranchero to be a little more utilitarian then just a "show truck". The bed was ready for shiny stuff but decided to do the bed liner thing. I used a tint able liner (ACS Defender) tinted with the base paint the rest of the truck is painted with. Color match is close until the sun hits it. The pearl in the tint just does not leap out at you like it does in the paint. Overall pretty happy with the finished product. Pleased to see the cured liner has a nice sheen and shows the fact the bed is pretty straight.
Haven't quite talked myself into the bed liner yet but certainly understand the reasoning. What I'm interested in is you bed opening device. Willing to close up the exterior handle hole and make what ever modifications necessary to get a smooth tailgate with interior latch. Pictures and or drawings with measurements would really be appreciated.
Thanks
Jack
Little over half way down this page http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=6035.255
I used the stock latch, welded on the little extension, made the new latch out of 1/4" rod and 1/4X1/4 square tubing. The connecting link is just a bent piece of rod again. Mostly it was "six pack" engineering, a little luck and a couple of tries to get it right. The latch release was then powder coated. I couldn't begin to tell you how many times it was installed and removed during the process. I just don't have the dimensions written down and have been to bed since I put it together, sorry.
Bed is assembled. Corner panels will have to come off again for the side stainless. Had a really good time wrestling the bed center in without chipping any finish off anything! That bad boy is big and heavy! All stainless hardware, decided on the button head vice going with black oxide or galvanized.
Looking great Bill!
I wouldn't have tried installing that bed center piece without a few helpers, or a ton or moving blankets. I know I'd be cussing at all the scratches, lol. Looking good Bill, anxious to see those colors with the bed liner out in the sunlight. Gonna be pretty. Keep the pics coming. You move a lot quicker than I did on my project....what's your current target date?
Thanks guys. Rich the moving blanket on the tail gate and an old broom handle did the trick. Laid the panel on the "hump" over the axle and a folded up moving blanket on the gate. Put the broom handle under the front portion, raised up the end and rolled the front to about three inches short of hitting the cab. Removed the roller and gently pushed the bed cover to the front. Pulled the blanket out and set it down in place. If all is well the cover self centers and is ready to be bolted down.
I had a target date of paint this fall, interior panel fabrication this winter and finished up in early spring. But....life has changed the plan! Many, many things have interrupted progress. Wife's medical, travel changes, foul weather, house work and repairs and just stuff in general. So now the target date is floating out there in space. Not too much left in prep work. All the panels are ready for paint, only the fenders are left to work. Have the lower patches in both, need to finish frenching one and do a couple of small repairs on it to begin the blocking process. That I can do given we do have days warm enough to paint primer over the winter. Paint in the spring?
Been taking care of some of the "little" things that can be really BIG things on down the road. Nothing photo worthy, just shop time in this weather. Got a new brake light switch installed and functioning. Was not happy with the pressure switch as it failed already. Used the ol standby 65 - 73 Mustang switch. Only to find out right side brake light didn't come on. Right turn worked ok so wire from turn signal switch to bulb is good. That leaves the switch. Nope, had the front turn and rear turn wire swapped.
Got the wiper switch installed. Covered the cable with shrink tube to prevent any "hot times" under the dash. Happy with the install, looked for the new knob that I put in "safe" storage. Man is it ever safe! Have that under control thanks to this board and Lynn.
Next are seat belts, door panels and the finish welding on both fenders. Those will get primer as soon as the temps come up and the paint will stick!
It's always surprising how much time these 'little' things take to finish or troubleshoot. Much easier to tear it apart than reassembling! :003:
An afternoon of pondering my belly button came up with the AM/FM antenna location. Wanted to "hide" it but allthe hidden antennas just didn't feel right. So here is what I came up with, should work OK for FM, might be spotty for AM but how many folks listen to AM now days?
Will the antena really work better there than an actual hidden antenna?
I don't believe it would be any worse. Just could not get comfortable with a location for any of the hidden antennas out there. The closest I came was one mounted on the outside edge of frame rail, just didn't like the look when sitting back looking at it.
The radio is a Sirius/AM/FM/MP3. I have those in my daily drivers, listen to FM around town mostly with a little Sat. from time to time. I am sure the antenna will work fine with the FM stations because of the wave length of the signal. FM frequency band is much higher then AM thus a much shorter wave length. Ideal antenna length for FM over it's band is 33" where AM ideal antenna length is several hundred times the FM antenna. Tuning inside the radio makes it think it has a "perfect" antenna but that still does not make up for the lost signal because of the actual antenna length.
Sorry for getting too far down in the weeds......
Really enjoying your build and learning alot as we go. As I'm putting mine back together I realize that I need a tailgate latch seal by chance do you know who carries them.
I don't believe they are re-popped. I do have one and the latch but would like to sell them. Latch is "OK", a little pitting, seal is complete and not torn.
http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=8013.0
Got a break in the weather, not raining and not colder then a well diggers butt. Put some primer on the fender that has been beat to as close as I can get it. First coat so the blocking can begin.
Got the seat belt anchor points mounted. Went with Julianos' belts and anchors. The retractor is out board and the latch is inboard. Got them in place and pop-riveted them to the floor boards to keep them in place. Should have done this a lot earlier in the process but did not have the console in place due to a little oversight, the left air vent needed a little trim to allow the console to slide up all the way. The floor reinforcement plate happens to fit snugly between the frame rail and the floor board on the outboard side. Just hope it doesn't transmit road noise into the cab.
Alighty then, dodging rain, pollen and wind I did manage to get the fenders ready for paint. Did the gas door as well. Pretty happy, they are blocked out with 400, only one "break through" which will be spotted with thinned primer prior to the final scuffing and sealing for paint. Have them jammed, got the eye brows fitted and sealed them with seam sealer. Will hang and align the fenders, put the hood on and align it when both my "Ford guys" are available to help. These were the last sheet metal that needed to be worked and finished. That light at the end of the tunnel is not an on coming train!
Bill, looking very good. Some day I'll get there too. I have question.........you seam sealed the eyebrows. I had never given that a thought until I read that you had done it. Exactly what are you sealing; the studs that mount them? And will the seam sealer present an issue if you would need to remove them in the future, being that they are pot metal and thus somewhat fragile?
You always have excellent reasons for what you do, so I thought I'd ask, and get educated.
Thanks
John
Thanks John. I put a bunch of the sealer around each of the studs prior to putting them on the fender. Next I put the sealer around the stud on the inside prior to the straps and nuts going on. Both the inside and out side of that area were cleaned, de-rusted, primed and painted. The back side of the eyebrows was treated the same.
I did all of that so they would never have to be removed. Closing up all the access of dirt and water will stop any corrosion from forming behind or around the eyebrow. After it cures I will hit the area with a real heavy coat of rubberized under coating.
Thanks Bill.........to be clear, you did not put seam sealer in the gap between the eyebrow and the fender,correct?
Nope, just around the areas where the holes in the fenders would be covered. None squished out between the fender and the brow on the outside. It did squish in around the holes and studs on the inside which gives me a pretty good idea the holes are sealed up. After the straps and nuts were all snugged up I use a small acid brush to spread the excess around and over the nut and strap. I will probable be cursed by the next guy but there will be no water or dirt intrusion there!
Thanks Bill, ....... as to being cursed by the next guy, there is no doubt in my mind!
OK, starting to look like a car again! Got the fenders, splash panels and chin installed by myself. Pretty nervous, slow and a bunch of tape but they are in and happy with the gaps. No chips or scratches. Next is the hood, haven't figured out how get that bad boy in place without a second person. Really don't want to put my friends on the spot given we are all well experienced and the crowd is thinning out. Been playing with the idea of hanging it from the chain hoist and rolling the car under it......have to ponder my belly button on that one....
Nice work, looks like its coming together
Looking great Bill. I'm curious what the two thingies are on the tailgate that look like small louvers. I'm guessing it's just overspray where you were supporting the tailgate?
Yup, just overspray from jamming. The car has been blocked with 400, going back with 600 before paint. Most of the overspray goes away with that run of paper. I just hate doing that kind of work but it goes with the job.....
One more time the "jerry rig" gods have been good to me. Got the hood mounted, once again no chips or scratches. Hung that bad boy up and carefully pushed the car under it. I made sure it was centered up on the hood prior to the "close approach" to put the bolts in.
Got it aligned, hood latch in and working perfect and the stop latch. Pretty happy with the overall look. The 62 Bird scoop looks like it is supposed to be there (IMHO).
Yeah you're right! That hood looks like Ford should have done that. Clever job on the hood install, I have always tended to do things by myself as well.
Looks great, I like the tbird scoop. I wish I came out as battle scar-free when I installed the engine alone. Good thinking.
wow, this is coming along nicely !!!
Bill, looking great! Can you tell me please ,the distance from the front edge of the hood to the "V" point of the T bird scoop. As we discussed when I stopped in to see first hand, your outstanding work, I have a '63 T'bird hood and will be doing the same thing.
Thanks
John
John, the distance is 9 7/8". I used the entire hood skin from the Bird. A small portion of the 57 hood frame was trimmed to allow for mounting the scoop and the indent for the scoop hit the hood frame. I also added two holes in the frame to allow for bolting down the scoop in all corners. Given my lack of confidence and not wanting to cut up a good hood this one was built from two 57 pieces and the Bird skin.
To do over I would cut the 57 hood 1/4" in from the edge along the side up to where the Bird lines match up with the raised part of the 57 hood (rear most section). Only fold over the very front. The Bird skin almost layed perfectly on the 57 frame. The only area that needed a little help to lay flat was the front portion and it was only off by 1/4". I used seam sealer to "glue" the skin to the 57 frame.
I was so impressed with how close the '65 Thunderbird skin fit the '57 hood subframe. It looks like it belongs there. I wish I had a bead roller so I could have rolled the edges. Hammering the entire perimeter was a lot of work.
Gary I had the same surprise! Just happened to have the two standing together and it hit me that the curve was near identical. Made a cardboard template of the 57 and layed it on the Bird hood and the match was remarkable.
Drove it for the first time yesterday! Got it out to give it a bath (dawn dish soap) to get rid of the sanding dust and any finger prints from handling parts. Ready for the final blocking and finish paint. Picked up the base and a gallon of clear, man that stuff is expensive!
Got the head lights installed and checked out, alignment came in really close for an "eye ball alignment" but will need to do a more technical one after bumpers are on.
How did she drive?
That's going to be pretty, William!! Is one gallon of that ( yes, very expensive) clear going to be enough? I couldn't buy the good stuff recommended by my body and paint mentor (300ish per). It was at 180 gal. for the stuff I did buy, and I've got 2+ put on the car.
I've been meaning to ask what that jug is on the front of the car. Windshield washer?, overflow? Moonshine?
It should be OK, still have a half gallon in the locker. Everything is painted except the primered areas, fenders, hood, doors, quarters and tail gate. Should be plenty. The roof is as shot, no sanding and buffing, the jams are all finished as well as the engine compartment, love this clear as it lays down so well, ya, $190 a gallon ready to shoot!
That is a nurse tank. My gas tank until it is ready to hit the road. That way I can keep fresh gas to the carb as there is some distance between run times in the past. That will be going away after the paint is on. Drives nice (for a yard run), brakes are a little off. Soft pedal. Will have to wait on that until help can come over. They felt good when bleeding but soft with the engine running and vacuum on the booster. Steering is easier then I thought it would be. 64 Galaxie box, no assist.
That light is getting brighter!
Bill, I'm jealous.............but I'll get there. Can't wait to see it finished. A trip to B'ham might be in order.
John
John don't be, this thing will be five years in the works in September....couple of my car buddies (Ford guys) were ragging me about living long enough to finish it. Still have a long ways to go, final assembly (if the paint turns out good), interior and lots of stainless to polish....never mind the shake down run surprises.
THAT is one fine looking piece of art work...that just happens to double as a car! I bet you will have a hard time staying out of it once you get finished! ""What's that dear? You need a cucumber for dinner salad to be ready? No problem...be back with one in a few!" LOL!!! Any excuse you can find to drive that baby! Nice work!
Thanks bunches guys. Been a long journey! Family, health, friends and a bunch of "life" have extended the build. That and it is not a rebuild but an update to a fine piece of machinery!
Got paint on the Ranchero. Fairly happy, some trash in it and of course two bugs decided to commit suicide while the paint process was progressing. No choice but to help them along....now the color sanding and buffing starts! Does it ever end?
Put new sneakers on it after all the masking was taken off, just needed to see how it would set. 235-70/15s fit nice, rims came from Summit a couple years ago, they were on sale with free shipping. I think we have a winner hear, much because of the fellows on this site!
Couple of pics in the shop, take a few more after I drive it out tomorrow....
Good thing I am typing. 'Cause I can do that while I am also drooling! WOW! Looks great. The hood scoop looks fine! Like it belongs! You nailed that addition dead on.
How did you get those taillight pans so shiny? I bet they will really reflect the light BRIGHTLY!
Pat yerself on the back...you are definitely on the right path!
Looks great Bill. Bodywork look fantastic. I can hardly wait to see that color in sunlight! I don't envy you with the color sanding and buffing. Looks a tad high in the front.....what do you have for springs?
Man, that looks killer!
WOW!
Looks great. Glad to see it coming together. What sway bar is that, 59 type?
Thanks guys. Now the fun part, color sanding and buffing. Can't decide if I hate this more then blocking!
Rich the front springs are stock(that were in the car) with a turn and a half cut off. Stock spindles. Wheels are 15 X 7, tires 235-70s. Not going to mess with the ride height until all the parts are back on the car. It might look high because I didn't roll it after taking it off the jack stands. We'll see when I put it out in the sun today.
The sway bar is 58 Edsel Ranger/Pacer.
I can only wish my car was that straight! Awesome job, it looks perfect!
Rich, here is the stance as it stands right now. Think it will be OK when the rest of the "stuff" is on, that is a couple of days down the road....the ranchwagon I had was way too low! Hard to get around without dragging the exhaust. Have the mufflers on this one tucked up tight so it can go down if it strikes me to put it down.
The tail light reflectors were sanded, de-rusted, painted with self etching primer and then shot with rattle can "chrome".
No pics but I started putting the bed stainless in, just can't help myself! One side is done hit the other tomorrow. Bumpers and grill we be after the buffing is completed.
I suspected that was what you had used. You are the first person I have ever known who used the rattle can chrome. How do you like it? Was it as easy as they say? sure looks nice.
And the car color...looks like a shade of purple with burgundy in it. what is it officially? I do like it. It really pops!
Really really liking your color and wheel choice. The stance looks much better than I had originally perceived. It's got that little California rake I couldn't see before. It should be fine just where it is, Don't let it sit too long before you start the color sanding, lol. It just gets harder.
Quote from: mustang6984 on 2020-04-28 18:31
I suspected that was what you had used. You are the first person I have ever known who used the rattle can chrome. How do you like it? Was it as easy as they say? sure looks nice.
And the car color...looks like a shade of purple with burgundy in it. what is it officially? I do like it. It really pops!
The "chrome" goes on pretty much like any other, just can't load it up heavy. A little practice to get the "touch" and most applications turn out nice. Now, it is not even close to chrome but does give a nice shinny look.
The paint on the Ranchero is a stock GM color. 86 Caddy, Dark red metallic. Does no have any "metal" in it, just red pearl.
Beautiful Bill.
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2020-04-29 06:47
The "chrome" goes on pretty much like any other, just can't load it up heavy. A little practice to get the "touch" and most applications turn out nice. Now, it is not even close to chrome but does give a nice shinny look.
The paint on the Ranchero is a stock GM color. 86 Caddy, Dark red metallic. Does no have any "metal" in it, just red pearl.
Good to know. I will have to get a can and play with it. I am guessing the taillights/brake lights will be a LOT brighter with that background.
That color is just stunning. I guess GM can do somethings right...LOL!!!
That really looks nice, I love the way it looks without bumpers. Makes me want a ranchero!!
Thanks for sharing the photos and letting us tag along..
Got the rest of the glass installed. The channel that snaps into the door frame is a challenge! I have a piece of door glass that remained complete (not sure how given the cars condition when it came home) and used it for a template to make sure the clips lined up with the holes they snap into.
Bending it around the corner is very tedious. To make the bend without kinking the channel or the stainless I lined the new piece up on the glass and strapped it down with wide masking tape. To start the bend you need to pull firmly on the "tail" while holding the top portion in place. After a couple of degrees the tail will curl up. Work your hand down the length gently twisting it back and forth. As you do this you will feel the stainless moving. This twisting needs to go all the way down the tail. By doing this every couple of degrees you will get a nice tight bend with no kinks. It took me about 20 minutes to do each side. After the bend is complete you mat have to trim a little of the stainless off the end that buts up against the vent window.
As it sits right now. The door handles are off because I forgot (or lost) the pads that go under them! Got them ordered, easy install. The door locks work both inside and outside, windows crank up and down and the door handle works! Got the bed stainless all snugged down. That turned out to be easier then I thought, the cab corners go one last. Found that out the hard way! Car still needs final polish then a thorough cleaning inside and outside! It is a mess with dust in every crack and corner.......
OK, any tricks to get the four hood bumpers in their holes? Got frustrated and put them aside before I messed something up. So if you have the solution I would appreciate some help. Thanks in advance.
Bill, It's been a very long time since I installed my hood bumpers, but I do remember them being a chore to install. I think I used plenty of lube and a small flat screwdriver to push the rubber into the holes. Those tapered bumpers are dual purpose...they also center the hood up in the opening.
Not super important, but those glass channels you bent up originally had 3/4 of an inch or so of the outer stainless rib protruding up over the little ss raingutter over the wing windows. That keeps them from falling should the clips (I glued mine) or adhesive holding the channel fail. We had some long threads on bending that stuff.
That is looking like one SWEET Ranchero! There will be a lot of very jealous people on the roads of Alabama when you drive down the road.
I was in Birmingham for Mustangs Across America back in '09. I believe I have a reason to go back to that city again Was a great week there...grand people, and now looks like another grand car on the road!
Absolutley Beautiful Bill! :thumbsup: :occasion14:
I have soft spot in heart for Rancheros. Nice looking car.
Thanks guys, moving along ever so slowly. Got the grill, park/turn lights and front splash pan installed. Working on the side stainless. Fender to door was a bit of a challenge, they didn't want to line up. Made some small tweaks to the clip holes and got them squared away. Waiting on the trim clips from Jerry Miller to finish the quarters. Made the "joining" clip that ties the check and quarter pieces together out of some 19 gauge scrap I had. Saw the picture of what the stock part is and figured there was no way to copy. Cut at the exact width it holds them aligned and fits perfect with no bow to clear the sculptured indent. The passenger side is just "siting" in place for the time being. Got the gas tank hooked up (nurse tank is off) and ran the car for twenty minutes to make sure all is well. Put four gallons of gas in and the gauge reads a touch above 1/8.
I really like the Thunderbird hood scoop. Nice addition.
Looking great, Bill. How did you like the sample Diamond Cut 2 buffing compound I sent you? Compared to what you normally used?
SWEET! No doubt about it...heads will be turning this summer when you roll down the road! Looking closer all the time to that day!
Looking really nice!
Again, thanks guys.
Rich, I used most of it up, liked it, went to my paint guy. He said he could get some but try this instead, Eclipse Premium Heavy Duty Compound. Well I ended up using it to finish the rest of the car. It is more aggressive then the diamond cut so more care must be used. After the Eclipse (wool pad) I had some 3M Perfect-it Foam Polishing Pad Glaze followed bu 3M ultrafine Machine Polish. I had three good wet coats of clear so I knew how hard to press the cutting and buffing.
First trip around the block. Feels good, steering is nice and tight (64 Galaxie box), ride is good, did not get up in speed to check the over drive but it felt good up through three. Bumpers are at the platters, long lead time on them. He said business is booming. Virus?
Will start work on the interior next, time permitting, life is going on!
Again, beautiful work. looking forward to the interior pics! :003:
Looks really good! Once all the shiny parts are on...LOOK OUT! Going to be one sweet head turner. :003:
Outstanding Bill.... Love the color and especially the stance. Tremendous Job.
Very beauteous!!. so pretty in the sunlight, and your bodywork shows it off great. Done right. Got my approval..(lol, who cares, right?)
If I were you, I'd need to leave it sit where it is for a while and pull up a lawn chair and stare for a while.
Well Rich, the bumpers are at the platters for the very reason you stated. Pulled a chair up (with an adult beverage or two) and pondered my belly button, decided the bumpers laying next to the car didn't do it justice. They were "OK" but not "nice" so off to the phone to look for a place to drop them off.
Got the insurance updated, need to find out about the County Court House with respect to getting tags. We can renew on line, just don't know about getting "new".
The nice thing about platers in your area, is they still can use the old chemicals that they can't use up here. They do a really nice job for a lot less money too.
Joe I'm not sure the platters in this neck of the woods haven't been bitten by the same bug. Have to say a couple of the "TV show" platters here are 12 - 16 weeks out with bumpers that have no dents or twist in them. Their cost just absolutely flabbergasted me, 800 - 1200 per bumper. I went with the fellow in GA because of turn around time, he answered the phone first call and said he needed to look at the bumpers to give me a price. I figured the drive would be worth the price of gas, it was. 500 each. Just waiting now.
I just got another quote for two three-piece grille sets and a pair of wagon rear bumperette/overrides at $1200 including pick up and delivery, taxes and hazardous waste disposal fee with a two week turnaround. This is the best price in a couple of years shopping.
Got the door panels mocked up, lay out changed three times with a long period on "belly button" pondering involved, a couple of adult beverages as well. Decided this is going to be the final layout. Smooth on the top of the panel, vertical pleats between the shiny stuff and smooth below. Need to decide if I want to polish the aluminum panels or paint them body color.
Got the door cards cut and punched for both doors. On to kick panels and the rear of the cab......
Really like that top design Bill.
Take it right out of '64-'66 Thunderbird
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2020-06-25 09:45
Got the door panels mocked up, lay out changed three times with a long period on "belly button" pondering involved, a couple of adult beverages as well. Decided this is going to be the final layout. Smooth on the top of the panel, vertical pleats between the shiny stuff and smooth below. Need to decide if I want to polish the aluminum panels or paint them body color.
Got the door cards cut and punched for both doors. On to kick panels and the rear of the cab......
Bill, really looks great. I have a pair of the same arm rests for my Ranchero. Are you relocating the arm rest? And ,are you using the interior door handle that goes with that arm rest?
Thanks
John
Gary, got the stuff off of 65 panels that were left over from the 65 Special Landau restoration. Those panels were too far gone to keep so the aluminum and stainless were striped and saved. Didn't have anything in mind for them until I decided to use the 62/63 steering column and seats, Keep the interior T-Bird theamed.
John, the arm rests are 63 Fairlane, they look like 63/64 pulls but do not have the "extra" slot for the door handle. They will go in where the stock 57 arm rest went. The holes in the 63 arm rest line up perfectly with the 57 mounting brackets in the door. I will be using the stock 57 - 63 door handles along with 63 Bird window cranks. The have a chrome knob vice the white or black other years have.
There are little surprises in life! Got the call last Thursday, my bumpers are ready. Leaving this morning to pick them up. He told me 6 - 8 weeks, not going to complain they are early! Happy I went ahead and got the brackets finished up rather then saying those can wait a couple of weeks.
Got the bumpers cleaned, painted the back side semi-gloss black and a heavy coat of wax on them. Used Rustoleum per Chrome It's recommendation. They cleaned up perfectly. Found no errors in the finish. Very happy with the job!
Assembled the over-riders and bumper brackets. Made a license plate holder for the rear, no front. Just waiting on my "helpers" to return from MO (Fairlane Nations) to do the install. They are a little heavy and cumbersome for this 73 year old balding fat man to tackle by myself.
Those look gorgeous, Bill! and nice job on the plate brackets.
If you don't mind me asking, what's the going rate for chroming bumpers at a good shop these days?
They sure do look pretty!
I was/am well pleased with the job. His tutorial for cleaning and preservation of the finish was a pain in the butt but should be worth it in the long run.
They were $1100. I was concerned by the price difference but thought I would take a chance and it worked out well. The two "TV" platters (Nashville & Sholes) were $850 - 1300 each with a 8 - 12 weeks.
Chrome It in Marietta, GA.
Can't believe it has been almost three months since my last update! Life has a way of buggering things up. Still having life issues, thankfully none of my family but a good long time friend.
So, on to what little has been accomplished. Got both door panels ready to cover. I used a thin plywood panel to get the fit and size correct as a template. Multiple try's to get the layout as I wanted. Next was trimming the aluminum panels, punching the holes in it (very nervous as there is only one try) along with trimming the stainless (also very tense) to fit nice and close and look proper. Fairly pleased with the results. I have decided that I'm going to paint the aluminum panels to break up the mass of off white. I have the back panel fabricated, next are the side panels to fit under the side metal pieces John sent me (Thanks again John) to complete the door to door portion. Still need to do some six pack engineering to work out the kick panels.
Those look really nice in their design...can't wait to see the final product!
ditto
Got a little more accomplished. Going slow, lost a good friend this past week. Was having trouble dealing with it.
Got the back panel finished, need to finish the mount for it, the bottom panel was a little "testy" with several tries to finally get a decent fit. Those panel cards are a tough nut to crack! Used three blades to get all the cutting done and good ol Harbor Freight hole punches. The speaker grills will hold it in place.
Nice and clean! I like it! Going to be worth all the aggravation when it is done!
Sorry about the loss...been there...understand.
So sorry for your loss....
Yes, sorry for your loss as well. I assume this was the widow of the old friend you were helping?
That panel is going to look great when finished. Good work as always, Bill.
Thanks guys, yes Rich that was her. Had a bunch of "what ifs" going around my little brain. My youngest (she's a paramedic) gave me the key to straightening out my thinking. Funeral tomorrow, doing the eulogy, going at it from the celebration of life angle. Feel good about it!
Sure will be glad when 2020 is over........:<)
Sounds like your youngest, and I'm sure her siblings as well, has her head screwed on straight. I'm totally useless when it comes to coming up with the right things to say. Good for her, and you for raising them right!
Just realized when changing my avatar that I never posted any pictures with the bumpers bolted up! So we got underway again to exercise it and shoot a couple of it as it is now. Need to tweak the front just a touch to raise the front to get rid of the slight angle it is on.
Sooooooo pretty!!!!!!! The body work and paint look outstanding.
"Need to tweak the front just a touch to raise the front to get rid of the slight angle it is on."?..........tweak the bumper or tweak the front suspension? Not sure what you meant, I'm guessing you meant the bumper, pics look like maybe just a tad more angle on it from the side. The car's stance looks perfect to me. How about a pic with a door open.
These are the best pics I've seen giving an overall feel to the car, and especially the hood. You and I used different approaches for the hood scoop with the same goal of subtle but effective. I really like yours alot. Hmmmmm.
Almost edited your last post by accident adding the scoop sentences.......I've got to be careful with this monitoring thing. That's the reason for the "last edit note on your post.
What a beauty! The stance is perfect! You have to be quite proud of the way she turned out! :003:
Thanks guys, pretty happy with it. Just wish I had a booth to paint in. Got a couple of dead bugs, not sure how they get in the shop.....but I know where they are....The front bumper needs just a little tweak to raise the front of it to get ride of the very slight down ward angle.
Work continues on the interior. I now have all the cards fitted and ready to cover. The card that covers the back panel was a couple hours of six pack engineering. Finally figured, there is a natural shape in the upper sheet metal that will take the top of the card. The lower is fastened with a 3/4" X 3/4" hardwood square dowel and brackets that screw to the inner brace. The side pieces will be held in place buy the back card and the metal trim (Thanks again John). Kick panels are a good fit, the "holders" will need rust repair as is almost standard on these old things!
All that patient prep is paying off. There is some serious green in my gills right now. I can't wait to get this cross-country move done and be able to start back on mine again.
She looks great.
Thanks, got distracted, wanted to get this in line with the last post....but life happens.
So here are the pieces all dummied in place.
I think I have a decent kick panel retainer, not sure which side... If you are interested PM me, I'll try to find it. :burnout:
Looks Great Bill!!!
I like the speaker placement...looks stock. Clean as a whistle!
Bill, that is one beautiful Ranchero. You've done an amazing quality job..
Many thanks for the kind words.
The speaker placement was a result of my sharp distain for speakers in doors.........no idea where that came from. I just can't bring myself to do it!
I have the same disdain...I think that means we are just above average in our lust for clean installs. LOL!!!
Work progresses although slowly. Have the carpet trimmed and installed. The console is bolted down and the flex A/C lines from the unit to the register installed. Radio is in and checked out, very happy with the sound. Need to learn how to operate the thing! The glove box was modified, ( needs to have the portion that sticks back cut off to clear the A/C ), lined and installed.
I'll post pictures if the site will let me.....nope, no go yet.
More to follow.....
RADIOS...way too intuitive!! At one time, I could drive any car and change the volume or station without taking my eyes off the road. NOW, I have to pull off the road to make changes or maybe even get the owners manual out. Don't even try to change the HVAC! So much for 'distracted driving'.
I have an under dash unit, I can't see what all the little buttons are for :005: so it stays on one station or I use a CD. Luckily the volume has a knob I can turn :001:.
I never understood why they make new radios like they do.....the radios in cars that are from the factory are NEVER hard to read or manipulate, so why do the replacement radios have to be so hard. I have to keep the manual on mine in the glovebox so I can figure out how to get a radio station after I've pulled off the road. Factory radios are not like that. Very frustrating.
I have to admit that my old Philcos few options. My Pioneers have flash drives in the USB port with 12000 tunes that are automatically picked at random. If it wasn't for the flash drive, I would turn it off and listen to the loud pedal.
I had an old 1966ish Becker in my Mercedes and it was virtually a one-touch design much like a 57 town and country. simply awesome !
Now I have a ca 1965ish Blaupunkt in my 64 Ford Taunus and its as easy to adjust. maybe even better. it has several mechanically locking frequence saver buttons. where is the progress in 50 years? Making everything as complicated as possible? sorry for the rant.
Dropped the seats off to an upholstery shop that has been in business for 41 years. Two brothers opened, one and son now operate, just hope I didn't let them into upholstery jail. I decided I wanted "French seams" and my skill level is just not to that level.
What are french seams?
They make a sound like a frog when you sit on them..."ribbit... :003: Couldn't resist!
Double stitching on the exposed seams, example, the seat bottom to the seat side....
I like that look. I just didn't know it had a name. I never thought about it though. Thanks for educating me!
me too.
https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=french+seam+on+leather&id=E76CE7D5A292D5359437F8171CD86D649DF2FB57&form=IQFRBA&first=1&tsc=ImageBasicHover&scenario=ImageBasicHover
Some more interior work. Gat the seats off for covering, finished the rear portion of the interior. Things went well except it took forever for the glue to get to the point of holding! Shop temp is only 50* so things slow down a little. Ya, no heat, just hunker down and get it done......
Door panels next, need to polish the stainless that I have fitted, trimmed and did a bunch of six pack engineering to settle on for the final product.....
Lookin' better and better all the time... :003:
Been plugging along ever so slowly. Got the windless stitched up and installed (almost). Still have the kick panel area to firm up. The stuff wrinkled up a little more then I thought but going to have to live with it. Got one door panel finished. Everything lined up like it was supposed to (surprised me) and clipped in just as nice as can be. The B post panels are out until after the headliner goes in and the metal "fillers" that are on the quarter behind the door just need to be bolted in. Seats are still in upholstery jail, expect them to be ready in January which is OK because we will be heading up "nort" to be with family for Christmas.
and the steering wheel looks good too.
Lookin' good!
WOW! Looks really good. I was wondering...would some heat from a heat gun or hair dryer help take some of the wrinkles out? Just a thought. But sure does look super to me! :003:
I'm thinking that is "texture" in the material, not "wrinkles"... :dontknow:
I assume Bill and Hugh were talking about wrinkles in the windlace at the corners. The first problem,imho, is it looks like foam was used for the core. Before I started mine, I talked to an upholstery guy and he told me foam would not work well for that reason, and advised me to use a dense rubber, which I found at an upholstery supply place in Phoenix on one of our trips. The rubber helps a novice like me tons, but I still ended up with more wrinkles than I could live with, so my next try was to actually cut some big "U" shaped pieces of the vinyl fabric and made a template from cardboard of the door. I still had wrinkles but much better than my first try.
Hugh, heat won't shrink vinyl, but you can use heat to stretch it if needed. The only fabric, iirc, that can be shrunk with heat to get wrinkles out (headliners, etc) are some synthetics, but not all. Cotton headliner material can be shrunk with a misting of water if you want to run the risk of staining.
I have no idea how the good pros get windlace installed with no wrinkles.
With that said, Bill, I'm really liking your interior a lot!! Really nice design on the door panels. All that work was well worth it.
When I had a custom picture framing business, we could tighten new, but loose, synthetic fabric stretched artist canvases using a heat gun on the backside. The cotton canvases we misted with water on the backside, and voila!! after drying it became tight as a drum.
Sorry to get off on a tangent.
Bill, the kick panel area is out of focus in the above pic, is that the fuse panel I'm looking at?
Before he passed, the upholstery guy showed how to install windlace. Not only the importance of good tack strip but he stressed the importance of the right tool...pig ear notcher. Using rubber windlace and cutting reliefs in the flat part of the windlace will aid in sharp bents with out wrinkles.
https://www.qcsupply.com/v-shape-ss-ear-notcher.html
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2020-12-15 16:08
Been plugging along ever so slowly. Got the windless stitched up and installed (almost). Still have the kick panel area to firm up. The stuff wrinkled up a little more then I thought but going to have to live with it. Got one door panel finished. Everything lined up like it was supposed to (surprised me) and clipped in just as nice as can be. The B post panels are out until after the headliner goes in and the metal "fillers" that are on the quarter behind the door just need to be bolted in. Seats are still in upholstery jail, expect them to be ready in January which is OK because we will be heading up "nort" to be with family for Christmas.
The arm rests, are those 64-65 Falcon? They look nice.
You are correct Rich, not sure how I missed it when Bill actually said it in his post????
Thanks for the comments guys.
Rich that is the relay panel, hi and low beam plus relays to power ACC and Run circuits. The fuse panel is under the console.
The core is rubber, the problem with the wrinkles is the material is too heavy. I cut many reliefs in the corners but they still bunched up. The guy that has the seats said that I should have used a product that is lighter and has a larger weave backing. OK, lesson learned....
Yes, Falcon. They came in black only. Took a hunk of material to my paint guy to see if he could match the color in a vinyl dye. Got pretty close.
The steering wheel is a stock 63 Bird, got a Wheel Cover kit, leather with heavy thread and needle. About six hours to get it nice and tight. There were six big cracks in the original wheel that were filled with epoxy.
That looks really nice Bill. My wind lace has the same issues or wrinkles in the corners, it was done by the previous owner. And guess where the wind noise on the hiway comes from. I'll just live with it, I'm just getting too old to start reworking it..
I have noticed in the past if I push in on the windlace at the corner and area above the vent window, the wind noise will change/lower. Of course, that's also telling us that our seals are not closing off in that area. I knew that on mine as that corner of the door needs to be tweaked in a little, I can pass a dollar bill back and forth in that area when the door is shut.
Bill, I'm sure you know this, but also some types of vinyl stretch more in one direction than another....usually indicated on the backside of the material, sometimes with a diamond.
Also, here's a link to how I did my kickpanels when I had to work around something 3 dimensional. Lots of ways to skin the cat, but this worked out well and was a fun project.
In my case it was the fuse panel I had to build around, my engine harness took all the room in my console. http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=5795.30 reply #39
The last installment for the year. Got the door panel for the right side finished and installed. The Ranchero and I will rest until after the first of the year.
Got the seats back from upholstery jail, pics to follow. Got some life to take care of here first.
Life is taken care of! Got the seats assembled, pretty happy with the results. The upholstery guy did a good job with putting the new foam in, getting the covers right and in a very acceptable time frame! Just need to finish the kick panels and the welting on the kick panel area then the seats go in! Still way too slow, but I guess slow is better then not moving...
Looking good! (http://www.mysmiley.net/imgs/smile/happy/happy0158.gif) (http://www.mysmiley.net/free-aim-smileys.php)
I think your guy beat Gary's by about 4 1/2 years! Nice design and clean look. I've always wanted a white interior.......have never had one except the Mark Viii donor car with a perfect white leather that went to the scrap yard (not me)
One more step. Got the panel thingies John (KYBlueOval) gave me installed, thanks John. They really tighten up the welting down the side. No idea what the stock setup is supposed to look like or how the card board is supposed flow to the rear panel but the look is acceptable. Could not locate good enough fasteners to snap it in place and hold it when the door was closed.....So after a little "six pack" engineering I found the holes in the body were perfect to tap with 5/16 X 24. They are held in place with 5/16 button heads.
Looking great, Bill. What's left to do? You have to be real close, and what's coming up after the Ranchero?
That came out really nice :001:
Looks beautiful!
Thanks guys. Rich, I still have the kick panels to go then the head liner. The pain is going to be the rear of the cab. I have not figured out just how I'm going to marry the three little thin metal strips and the head liner to keep it taut. They go from side to side and up over the dome light.
The stock clamps for holding the welting in place were out of stock when I ordered them. The vendor substituted a same type but longer at no cost. The extra length interferes with getting the kick panel retainer to set down in place. Have pondered this for a couple of days and still have not come up with an idea that I can live with. Back out today and ponder some more.....
Looking forward to what you come up with. The headliner in mine was done by the previous owner without the three pieces, but they were in a box of junk that came with it.
Got the welting issue figured out. Was able to enlarge the "holes" in the kick panel holder to clear the "new" welting clamps. I did cut up two of the holders to repair the bottom of the right side. Funny thing, the left side only had a little rust on the bottom of the bracket.
Have the head liner hung waiting for it to relax before entering that task!
Looks great bill, really coming together nice!
Sweet! gonna be a fun summer for you! :006:
Bill craftsmanship a great job. John V
Well I'm going to call it finished? Head liner was a real challenge, not real happy with the results. The material is too heavy and did not stretch out like I think it should. Will give serious thought to getting another and trying again. Other then that the thing came out looking pretty fair. Now starts the working any bugs out. I do feel there are not going to be too many "things" to "fix". First is to get tags on it so I can hit some real driving time rather then the "around the block stuff.
Personally, I think it looks great!
Looking GREAT, Bill
I make three in the "great" category.
I also LOVE the gauge cluster design. Close to what I was going to do. You're gonna be fielding compliments on that car ALL summer long! :003:
Beautiful, you'll be turning a lot of heads with that one!
Thanks guys for all the compliments.
I thought I was finished......but.....one last item that escaped the how to. The battery hold down. I just don't care for the stock across the top style. After many days and times sitting looking at the thing I finally figured it out! Mind you there were several trys and failures (in my head) before this came up. The case has a slot on either side that the carry strap fits into. Clamp that bad boy down with those!
Used brake line and some 16 gauge stock to form the hold downs. Welded them together, painted and they work. Now can I call it finished?
:thumbsup:
For what is worth...I would say that is pretty slick...and that NOW...it's finished!
I will be really happy with it...when I get a ride in it! So far the only one I have gotten a ride in is Rich's rolling work of art! We always get grins and thumbs up along with the ""WOW! Nice car...what is it?" from younger kids when we go anywhere. Kind of cool...you will get that too! Enjoy!!!
very neat looking. My optima has a little ledge at the bottom for the clampdown, also makes for a neat look..