Hello All, We are about done with the 1983 460, It is more like a 1971 now, ready to attach the 1983 C-6 and install both in my 1957 Custom 300.. Our recent thought is connecting the C-6 to the Ford 9 inch rear end?? looking for ideas for thinking in that direction..As always I love this site and the information its members have to share!!Thanks..
glenmichael:
I guess you could say the ball is in your court, depending on what you will be using your 57 for. Rick Crawford (57tudor) runs a C-6 and a Currie Ford 9" rear end, but his is definitely set up Pro-Street. If you are just building a cruiser, you can't go too wrong in contacting a reputable drive shaft company and tell them what you are hooking it up to. There are a number of members on this site that have done swaps using a C-6, but the dimensions may be a bit different due to the length of your engine as compared to a FE, small block Ford or Y-block. Good luck on your build.
Bob
57 AGIN
Yes, but also...if your getting dimentional references somewhere, be sure to take into account the difference in wheelbase from Fairlane to Custom platforms.
As of today we are looking to change the yoke on the rear end to match the u-joint on the transmission end then find a driveshaft maybe from a truck and cut to fit?? The car is being built to cruise sunny Florida with a little extra zip..Thanks for the input,more questions to follow!
The yoke probably doesn't need to be changed. They make ujoints to adapt 2 different styles of yokes...very common, your autozone or O'reilly's probably have them or can get them in a matter of a day or so. Removing the oem yoke is not just a bolt on/off...there are presets involved.
It may help them to find the correct number adaptive joint if you research the ujoint requirements for both the driveshaft you are using and the differential. I'd recommend double checking the info you find against the actual differential's yoke to verify the info. I believe I remember discusions in the past about 2 different yoke styles on '57 differentials.
With all that said, I DID change the yoke on mine when I had my rear rebuilt/modified. The driveshaft I had was 1" short of ideal, and rather than having it modified or a custom driveshaft, it was much cheaper to replace the oem yoke with one an inch taller.
I have a custom with a 351w and AOD. I used the drive shaft from A late model Crown Vic. It is aluminum says police on the side. I did wind up using 2 combination joints.
It was quite awhile ago but I don't think I changed anything on the transmission end. The FOM And C-6 have the same spline.
On the rear I used a hybrid like Rich mentioned. Mine has the Daytona support so uses the large truck type u-joint. I think it was a 1330/1350 spicer unit.
My driveshaft just barely fit so I nipped off 1/2" off the yoke to give me about 3/4" slack.
Depending on how far your engine is mounted forward or back your driveshaft length may vary.
I need to get out more, combination u-joint great idea, I will see what driveshaft Mike finds and post our progress, again thanks for shareing your thoughts and knowledge!!
Hello again, The driveshaft is still in the works.. I have a question? The gas pedal is connected to the carb by cable, any ideas on connecting the transmission kick-down part?? The 312 metal rods are a mess and the stock gas linkage had to go!!
I thing you are using a Edelbrock/Carter/AFB style carb without the OEM C6 kickdown option. I think you will have to go with an aftermarket kick down kit like Lokar.
I am using a lokar kick down cable set up on my 351 C4 combo works great, they make them for the C6 also.
Hello again, Mike decided to use our driveshaft, he cut 5/8" off the end then re-weld the cup back on!! We drove the car about 1 mile then a real nice BURN OUT!!! Its still there no wobble or vibration time will tell..Now on to the Lokar kick down cable. Thanks for all the input!