I am currently in the process of doing a Borgeson conversion on my Ranchero. I have been fortunate that the new box has gone in and not required any modifications to the clutch Z-bar.
I have noticed from other posts that there have been different approaches to how people have adapted from the steering shaft (57) to the Borgeson box: Coupler, Rag Joint and Universal Joint. It seems that the coupler is the more straight forward and that the housing could fit over it.
Can others comment on which method they used and why?
i used the coupler to allow room for the shift linkage,i used a 59 center shaft, the 57 shaft has a hole for the horn wire.look at my borgeson install posts
Rag joints will isolate the steering wheel from minor shock vibrations. That is what I plan to use when I do the deal.
I just finished installing a Borgeson system in my Rachero starting out using the method described by Canadian Ranchero (coupling from steering shaft to box and exhaust fitting to couple housing to the steering box)- the install went well until I turned on the motor. I got an incredible amount of hydraulic noise coming into the cab coming up through the steering shaft (Borgeson says noise is normal). I removed the housing from connecting to the steering box and it helped some, added No Leak fluid (per Borgeson) helped a bit more. But I still have a lot of noise in the cab, basically I need to decouple the shaft from the steering box - rag joint would be best, but if I install it right at the steering box I would have to cut a large hole in the firewall then fabricate a cover - a lot of effort.
I am trying to keep the stock column.
Any suggestions?
Might a u-joint fitting help? smaller diameter than the rag joint.
By the way the basic functionality of the system has been good.
Carl.
In my opinion, that Borgeson power steering box is defective. Pull it out and send it back and make them replace it. I completed my power steering upgrade project last march and my Borgeson power steering box is dead silent and steers great! By the way, I used Lucas Oil power steering fluid in my system. One last thing, make sure your pump pressure is set at 1800 psi. I got my pump last year at ABS in Orange, Ca. and had them set the pressure at 1800 psi. That is the recommendation I got when I talked to the Borgeson tech on line last year before I purchased my pump.
Rick
57 Tudor
:unitedstates:
Gentlemen,
After reading of the noise from the steering box, I contacted Borgeson. I had several questions for them. For one, I've seen their boxes for sale on eBay and on Amazon. Most of them are rebuilt units. I asked if they were having problems with them since so many rebuilt one's were for sale. The guy I talked to said that he was not aware of any problems, but the unit does have a 3 year warranty. I also asked about the noise. He did confirm that the boxes were noisy. I asked about using the rag joint and he said that I should be using the 312500 smooth bore coupling since that was the only thing that fit inside of the stock factory outer tube. Also, the factory steering shaft is smooth and is not appropriate for their rag joint coupling. I did mention that I could machine out the double "D" end and weld the shaft to one half of the rag joint. But, I would also have to get creative about the end of the outer shaft housing.
I was not aware that the pressure could be adjusted on a PS pump. I plan to buy a pump from Borgeson, perhaps then it's not an issue.
I also confirmed that their older boxes were 16:1 ratio and the current one is 14:1 ratio.
Any comments on use of the coupler or rag joint would be appreciated. I'm getting ready to order parts.
Also, I did order the 1959 - 1962 turn signal switch. I want to be able to keep the horn working with the stock horn ring.
Rich
I was unaware of the rag joint interference issue, the noise issue, or any other problems. I will follow closely based on my plans.
To help those of us contemplating the installation of the Borgeson power steering unit. It would be helpful if those of you that have completed a successful installation would provide a few photos and tell us of any specific problems that they had during the install. Also, what type of coupler you used and why. Would you change anything that you did. Are you happy with the way the project came out.
Thanks,
Rich
i used a coupler,it gave me room to use the stock auto shift linkage.check my engine swap post for some pictures
Quote from: ROKuberski on 2016-04-21 21:01
To help those of us contemplating the installation of the Borgeson power steering unit. It would be helpful if those of you that have completed a successful installation would provide a few photos and tell us of any specific problems that they had during the install. Also, what type of coupler you used and why. Would you change anything that you did. Are you happy with the way the project came out.
Thanks,
Rich
Rich, Unisteer makes a bushing/bearing for the column end. Look at this page, go to the bottom and click on the instructions. They show the part being installed. There is also a part number, not sure if they would sell it separately, but worth a look.
http://www.unisteer.com/fairlane/57-59-ford-rack-pinion-kit-for-traditional-motors.html
I'm curious about the "would have to cut a big hole in the firewall for a rag joint" statement in the original post. The oem hole is big enough to pull the steering box up thru.....?
I'm also curious about the Borgenson noise problem. Is this on their original design box, or the new one?
And, I'm also curious why Borgenson redesigned it after a relatively short time span with the old.
Also Unisteer's R & P kits are designed for an "oem 332 or 352 FE block" huh????
For the guys that already have done the Borgenson swap....does the car return to center as a "normal car" would? And how does the car handle at freeway speeds of 70 or so?
Gary/Canadian Ranchero...hurry up and get you project running so you can give us a report on your Borgenson unit...lol.
I looked at the instructions for the Unisteer kit and it is well put together. I liked everything about the kit except the price. In other posts on installing power steering there is information about using the Chevy Caviler rack. I seem to remember that there were issues with this method too. Unisteer notes that their rack has 6" of travel. Does anyone know what the Caviler rack has for travel?
The use of the added floor plate to anchor the end of the steering column is a good idea as is the total replacement of the shaft from the steering wheel to the first u-joint.
I also saw where the standard motor is a 332 or 352, but a quick phone call would confirm if a Y block is okay too. I would guess that it is.
Canadian Ranchero, I looked at your pictures and you have a very clean installation. I looked at pictures last and saw one where someone used an exhaust part as an adapter. Was that you? I've included a snip from a picture I found on one of your previous posts.
I guess I have more thinking/research to do before I spend the money.
Rich
Borgeson lists kits for various engine combos in '57s including "traditional engines". I used the FE one for show and tell 'cause that is what I have. I have a floorshift so I was thinking I would have plenty of room for a rag joint so I am curious about the clearance comment. I think Borgeson buys these boxes and modifies them to fit, I am thinking that is why the design changed... the manufacturer upgraded to a quicker box. Just a guess....
I measured the distance necessary to move from lock to lock to be closer to 7".
Quote from: ROKuberski on 2016-04-22 09:09
I looked at the instructions for the Unisteer kit and it is well put together. I liked everything about the kit except the price. In other posts on installing power steering there is information about using the Chevy Caviler rack. I seem to remember that there were issues with this method too. Unisteer notes that their rack has 6" of travel. Does anyone know what the Caviler rack has for travel?
The use of the added floor plate to anchor the end of the steering column is a good idea as is the total replacement of the shaft from the steering wheel to the first u-joint.
I also saw where the standard motor is a 332 or 352, but a quick phone call would confirm if a Y block is okay too. I would guess that it is.
Canadian Ranchero, I looked at your pictures and you have a very clean installation. I looked at pictures last and saw one where someone used an exhaust part as an adapter. Was that you? I've included a snip from a picture I found on one of your previous posts.
I guess I have more thinking/research to do before I spend the money.
Rich
yes i used the exhaust part to fit the outer tube to the box.you must use a coupler on the inner shaft to make every thing fit[i used a cut off 59 inner shaft,can not use the one with the hole in the center]
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2016-04-22 08:49
Also Unisteer's R & P kits are designed for an "oem 332 or 352 FE block" huh????
The FE kit would work just fine on a Y-block except for the power steering pump bracket is different as well as the PS crank pulley.
Yes, I figured that this kit would work with the Y block too.
Canadian Ranchero, you note that I can't use the stock hollow steering shaft. That's the first I've heard that. The Unisteer kit does provide a new center shaft which eliminates any connections issues but their price tag is getting in my way. I am tempted to find out what a machine shop would charge to make up a shaft.
I am still leaning towards Borgeson.
Rich
Quote from: ROKuberski on 2016-04-24 13:04
Yes, I figured that this kit would work with the Y block too.
Canadian Ranchero, you note that I can't use the stock hollow steering shaft. That's the first I've heard that. The Unisteer kit does provide a new center shaft which eliminates any connections issues but their price tag is getting in my way. I am tempted to find out what a machine shop would charge to make up a shaft.
I am still leaning towards Borgeson.
Rich i used the solid inner shaft because i felt there would be stronger joint when the shaft was pinned and welded to the coupler
I ordered all of the parts for the Borgeson system. I bought the pump and gear box on eBay from a seller called "BUYAUTOPARTS". It's the 16:1 gearbox. They had a BIN and Make Offer on these items and they accepted $500 for the gear box and $300 for the pump. All in all, I will have just a little over $900 in parts in this system. I know that Borgeson is currently sell the 14:1 gear box, but this only has a 3.2 degree difference per revolution of the steering wheel. While that may be detectable when driving, I don't think it is important. I don't know what the current ratio is, but I would guess way more than 16:1.
I also bought some parts to modify my stock horn so that I can still use it after cutting off the steering shaft.
And just to keep busy, I've also got a pinion seal, input shaft seal for the transmission and a new rear main seal for the engine. My car leaks everything but coolant. None of the leaks are very bad, but I HATE LEAKS. Hopefully, this will resolve that problem.
When all this is done, I'm going to give the power brake booster another try. I've got all the parts and am using a different master cylinder. Maybe I'll have more luck this time.
Rich
Rich congrats on "pulling the trigger". Very interested in the results with the Borgeson as that is what I am planning. I think you made a good decision on the 16:1 box, I think the stock box is 19:1, 4.5 turns lock to lock. The improvement is hopefully awesome. Leaks...ugh! I am almost convinced the are eventually "standard equipment". Hope you booster works out too!
automatic rust proofing
Quote from: gasman826 on 2016-04-30 08:22
automatic rust proofing
Yes, I hear you. However, even though we get plenty of snow here, including 1/2" last night, they don't use much salt and rust is not a problem. I have a lift and I park my Corvette under the Fairlane. Needless to say, I've got drip pans in place.
I was thinking, my engine has been rebuilt. Crank was ground .020". So now it is slightly undersized. I am not aware of using different seals in this situation. Anyone know if that is something I should look into?
I've wanted to do this for several years, but it takes me a while to convince myself that I done the research and made the best choice for me. Since I am retired, I watch cost a little more closely. After all, it's not like I need this car, but we do have fun with it. And, my wife never complains about it. That's a very good thing.
I'll take some pictures and get them posted.
Rich
Watching this very closely also, I have had the parts sitting here waiting to this install but I am going to be using an aftermarket tilt column and doing a 3 Speed standard to AOD swap at the same time. I have not yet ordered the column as I want it to be as snug up to the dash as I can get it. And I am not sure if there is going to be clearance room at the floor board for shifter linkage.
When cranks are ground under size the only grind the main and rod journals the surface that the main seal is on never changes. There are two types of seals, the original rope type and the newer rubber type. plus two side seals on the seal retainer. Regardless of which one you use they are a total PITA major project to change with the motor in the car. Do some research on that subject.
I have installed the two piece rear main before. As you say, not all that much fun. The good news is that I now believe that my oil leak is from the distributor. With the transmission out you can see the whole back of the engine is wet.
Power steering parts arrive tomorrow. Likely won't get started on this until after Mother's Day.
Rich
Good news, that will avoid one headache. The Y's are prone to leaking at the back of the valve covers and valley cover also. Those old style cork gaskets weren't the best. They make rubber ones for the valve covers and valley cover.
Y's don't leak, they are just marking their territory :003:
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2016-05-03 20:05
Y's don't leak, they are just marking their territory :003:
Jim,
I guess you could say that I too am making a statement.
"NO LEAKS!" At least I hope that is the result. When I had the engine apart a few years ago I did not remove the distributor. If it turns out that the valley pan is leaking, I will pull the intake and fix that too. It will give me a chance to drill the valley pan for a PCV valve. I now have one installed in the hole for the draft tube and I don't like the look of a hose running all way down there. However, my oil stays cleaner now that I have that installed. I've also seen an oil fill tube cap with a hose connection on it, which can only be for a PCV connection. But for that to work I would have to reinstall the draft tube. Air has to get in there somehow.
Rich
Rich,
A PCV system is the way to go even if it's not original. I'm using a valley cover from a 62 truck that had a PCV system. I have a filler cap with the hose connection and the hose goes to the air cleaner, the road draft tube is not used and blocked off. If you look at 61 and later blocks there isn't even a hole in the casting for a draft tube. Good luck with your NO LEAKS endeavor, something I have never accomplished..
May 7th - Day 1 of the install
It's a wet cold miserable day outside, but just fine in the garage. I started the project by doing what I thought would be easy. I installed the power steering pump. First off, the small bolt that is at the top of the bracket goes into the block through the water pump could not be removed. That bolt hits the water pump pulley (I have a three groove pulley, that may be a factor.) So, I had to remove the fan and water pump pulley to extract the bolt. Then throw that bolt in you junk box and buy a 5/16 X 4-1/2" long bolt. I also had to remove my gas line from the pump to the carb. It runs straight up from the pump right into the power steering pump. So, I can modify that later. The Borgeson bracket fits perfect and the pulley lines up with the third groove (closest to the radiator.) I'll measure that for a new vee belt later.
I have the existing steering box loose from the frame and have removed the pitman arm. Horn ring is off and I will tackle the removal of the steering wheel shortly. I hope to have all the existing steering gear/shaft removed today. If I have any energy left, I will put in the new steering gear. I ordered the coupler and hoses direct from Borgeson and they have not yet arrived.
PM Update - With a little help from my wife I got the old steering gear box and steering column out of the car. Once again, not as easy as the shop manual makes it out to be. The gear box jammed between the exhaust manifold and the fender liner. My wife was trying to assist in the car as I tried to align and shove the gear box through the firewall. Finally, I went in the car and gave a mighty tug and it came through. Had to rotate the gear box and turn the column way over towards the passenger side of the car and it finally came free.
I now have the new gear box set into position but not bolted tight. The pump is mounted and I have a belt on it. I feel like major progress was made today. I'm not cutting the shaft until I have the coupler in hand. I feel like I am past the worst part of the project and it only took about 3 hours of work.
More to follow,
Rich
I feel your pain. I changed out steering box last spring. I don't bend very well anymore so I take the front seat out. Extra work but makes things much easier.
I hear you. I've taken mine out too, only four bolts so no big deal. However, with my lift, I have the car up a few feet and I am not even crawling in there most of the time.
I'm taking Mother's Day off and will attack it again Monday.
Rich
Quote from: gasman826 on 2016-05-08 10:00
I feel your pain. I changed out steering box last spring. I don't bend very well anymore so I take the front seat out. Extra work but makes things much easier.
Yup, need to put wing nuts on them!
Day 2 of the install
It felt like I was being punished today. I cut off the steering shaft and tried to mount the adapter. My shaft was .012" larger than the adapter. Crap! Careful grinding and filing made for a perfect fit, only took about 20 minutes. Then, I installed adapter and shaft on the new steering gear. @!#$%^& It's too low at the dash, a full 3/4" too low. All the bolts fit tight, no slack in the system. I took the new gear box out and put it on a table, tucked it tight to the edge and drew a mark in each bolt hole and located the center line of the main shaft. Then I did the same thing with the original gear box. What do you know, NOT the same. I called Borgeson, politely explained to them that they screwed up my new gear box. The guy at the other end explained that what I had was not unusual, they just require some "fitting up." I reminded him that the instructions state that any modifications void the warranty. No problem he said. (I will follow up that statement with an email so just in case I do have equipment failure it will be in the record.) Anyway, I got out my die grinder and started to elongate the holes. The nose of the gear box was down on the frame so to lift up the shaft, all three bolt holes had to be worked on. I ended up opening them up about 1/2 of their diameter, but I did get a perfect fit. I snuck up on this with three removal and installs to make sure I did not take too much meat off of the bracket. Has anyone else had that problem?
Thursday, I will get the adapter welded to the end of the shaft. Then Friday, I can attack this project again.
Thanks for the pictures and the candid, 'blow by blow' description. I've been following closely with anticipation of upgrading the Raunch Wagon steering. I've used Borgeson stuff with no issues but I have reservations on this kit. You've overcome several issues. I was surprised to see the kit continued the use of the ridged steering shaft. I would have thought they would have upgraded to a lower column bearing and a rag joint. The rag joint would have eliminated some of the "fitting up". Another concern is the exhaust manifold clearance. I've heard others voice this concern. Some installed a heat shield. I'm sure many others didn't. Many of these kits have been successfully installed and I'm sure you'll be happy with the outcome. I really like the pump, pump bracket, and pulleys setup.
The steering gear is real close to the exhaust manifold, but so was the original.
I am using the stock column with automatic transmission and stock column shift. Right now, I feel that that a rag joint, which I would have preferred, will not fit. I will post the dimensions shortly, but I think I will be cutting the column off right at the bottom of the column where the shift linkage mounts.
I am fabricating a brass bushing to stuff up the column about 2" above the cutoff point. The bottom of the stock column fit over a piece on the original gear box and that stabilized the end of the column. My brass bushing will do the same. I am also considering putting a collar on the split sheetmetal floor access plates where I can also attach the bottom of the steering column. Right now, I need to clean rust and repaint those pieces as well as part of the firewall. Some of this area has not seen daylight since 1957.
What I got was not really a kit. I used the list of parts on the Borgeson website and then bought the gearbox and pump off of eBay. I did buy the coupler and hoses from Borgeson. I was pissed when the coupler did not fit, but it was very close. The hoses do not require the adapters that they mention on the website. However, one hose is a little too long, but it can't be easily cut. It's the high pressure line and I would have to get a pro shop to reinstall the connector on the end.
I don't know how many cars came with a three groove pulley, but I am now using all three.
I hope to be back together early next week.
I still have to replace gasket and seal on the distributor. I bought a small blue gasket and a rubber seal. It's listed for 1958 - ? forgot the end year. However, I've been looking and I think my distributor is the same as a '58 and later. It's leaking oil down the back of the engine and I want that to STOP. I hope these parts are what I want. Otherwise, is $2 bucks down the drain.
Rich
As usual, I'm a bit confused.....in the first pic of the 4 you just posted...Is that a splined shaft that the steering shaft fits over? If so, is there any reason why one could not adapt a rag joint or other universal joint to that instead of the long shaft? Gary's questions got me to thinking like it was like an oem setup where the shaft itself is an intergral part of the gear box
I'm thinking of late model steering columns like mine in particular that no longer use the long steering shafts, and if the Borgenson box could be adapted to a setup like mine.
on my box install,if you want to use the stock shift linkage you need to use the coupler.the rag joint if you use it is almost inside the car.i modifyed my outer column tube to fit tight on the box just like they did it in 57
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2016-05-11 13:31
As usual, I'm a bit confused.....in the first pic of the 4 you just posted...Is that a splined shaft that the steering shaft fits over? If so, is there any reason why one could not adapt a rag joint or other universal joint to that instead of the long shaft? Gary's questions got me to thinking like it was like an oem setup where the shaft itself is an intergral part of the gear box
I'm thinking of late model steering columns like mine in particular that no longer use the long steering shafts, and if the Borgenson box could be adapted to a setup like mine.
Rich,
You are correct, that is a splined shaft and I am using an adapter that goes from that to the cutoff original shaft that went into the stock steering gear. The problem with all of this is that the shift arms for the automatic transmission mount on the outer tube of the steering column. When I cut that off to mate up with the new gear box, there is almost no space left. My shift arm lever will be right at the top of the new steering box. If you are not using any of the stock shift linkage, then you've got some room, but your rag joint may well be inside of the cabin.
You can see in the pictures below where I will be cutting the steering column. It's really close for all of this to work. I'm not going to cut the column off until I get the adapter welded on and set in position for one last measurement, but I am pretty sure that the relationship I show in the pictures is at least 99% correct.
Rich
Friday the 13th Progress
I got the steering column fitted and set into place. My math was good and no screw ups all fits like I thought it would. Yesterday, I made a brass bushing to fit inside of the end of the cut off column. This will hold the end of the shaft inside of the tube so it won't rattle around. See pictures.
I also was ready to fill the the power steering pump with fluid. So, here was a project stopper. The pump leaks. Yes, I know that the bolts all have to be tight and the were. Sucks. I called the supplier and they will try to have a replacement to me by Tuesday. Have to check stock. Borgeson is in the process of moving so that may screw things up. End of the day was a bummer.
The second picture shows the bushing inside of the shaft. However, it is actually mounted down inside a couple of inches to allow clearance for the coupling at the end of the shaft.
Also, the splined shaft on the gear box where the pitman arm attaches is .006" larger than the original. This prevented the pitman arm from fully seating by about 1/8". I gave it all I had and could not get it to fully seat. Over 200 ft. pounds. My impact wrenches are rated about 180 - 185 and I managed a little more than that with man power.
Rich
Rich, man I feel your pain. Nothing is worse than finding out that something is defective at the moment you are anticipating a test run!
Don't ya' just hate ending a Friday needing parts!!!!!!!! If the pump is leaking around the reservoir/cover, there is a o-ring or seal around the edge of that cover. The cover is easily removed. It might be worth a couple of minutes to check.
Pitman shafts have a slight taper for a wedged fit. The pitman arm should not bottom out on the pitman shaft. Sounds like yours is normal.
Since the modified steering column has a fixed point at the top (bearing) and a fixed point at the bottom (adapter on the steering box), is a lower column bushing needed. My slight concern is the potential of intermittent binding with three fixed points...body flex and all that.
I have thought about taking the pump apart, but the high pressure fitting on the pump is so tight that I can't budge it. I have not tried the impact wrench on it, but may just do that.
I know the spline shaft is tapered. I am using the stock pitman arm. The stock tapered shaft is smaller than the new one. Installed, the pitman arm was flush with the stock spline. I am about 1/8" short of flush on the new one, but it is well engaged. The nut is fully engaged with threads.
I don't have three fixed points for the cutoff outer tube. There is nothing to hold the bottom in position except my bushing and the hole through the two piece floor plate cover, so it kind of floats, but not much. I am about .010" undersize for the O.D. and about .010" oversize for the I.D. That's not much slop, but I believe it is enough so that there will be no binding. Also, there is zero room for an adapter to go from the gear box to the outer tube on the column. In my picture you can see that the bracket for the shift linkage is right at the cutoff point.
I am beginning to wonder if anyone had done exactly what I am doing. I am using the stock steering column, with automatic transmission, using stock shift linkage and installing the Borgeson gear box.
I really appreciate the comments and insight from others while working on this project.
Rich
i did the vary same thing you are doing. check my post for pictures
Quote from: canadian_ranchero on 2016-05-14 18:52
i did the very same thing you are doing. check my post for pictures
Thanks, I knew I saw that adapter picture before. Sometimes my memory fails me. The neutral safety switch is really close in there as is mine. I had to grind off the extra length on the set screw on the adapter so it would clear the inside of the column. I have the column back in the car and the shift linkage indicator remounted. That was one of my index points to be sure I had everything back in original position.
Did you have the alignment adjusted as noted in the Borgeson literature? Since this system will essentially operate as the original stock steering I was wondering why they were recommending changes.
Rich, stock suspension alignment specs are a compromise between handling/directional stability and steering effort. Since you'll have power steering you can improve the driving experience by wheel alignment adjustments.
try about 3* to 4* positive caster if you can get it
Just for reference, the last time I had mine adjusted, my alignment guy could only get about 2 degrees. It was set at about minus 1/2* before that. It helped but from what everybody says is not enough for optimun handling. Mine having a rake also interfered with getting more.
I just pulled the report I got when I had an alignment after rebuilding the frontend. I have 0.6 degrees caster. Borgeson recommends 3 degrees. I'll see what they can do.
I am getting a replacement power steering pump delivered this morning. Hopefully this is not a leaker. I've got most everything back together, but still have a little work to do after mounting the pump. It's been cold and wet here so I may not go for a ride until we dry out. High yesterday was only 44 here, snow level was down to 8500'. Got to love it, spring time in the Rockies.
Rich
Had the heater on all day yesterday...lol springtime in Texas!! Raining today. Suppose to clear in Colorado for the weekend..was thinking of heading up there for a show at the Abbey in Canyon City. Was at this show maybe 8 or 9 years ago. Great park-like setting for a show. It's on my bucket list of shows to do when my car is finished..
Rich,
Yes indeed, good weather in Colorado for the weekend, assuming the forecast is accurate.
I got the replacement power steering pump this morning and got it installed and working in about 10 minutes. All appears fine at this point. Ease of steering is just right. 3-1/2 turns lock to lock. I took a short trip around the neighborhood and there is a dramatic difference.
Still messing with the power brakes. I do have improvement in performance, but it's still not 100%. I'm not out of ideas yet, but if it is not working right by the end of the day, I may be.
Rich
I'll be anxiously waiting to hear how your car handles at 65 or 70 with the changes.
Off topic, but I'll send out some pm's if I go to Co. for sure...at this point 90% sure. I haven't seen Jon or Al for a year or so. Al was out of town last time I went up there. Which reminds me, I should have done a post letting you guys that know Al (57dohc) know that sadly his wife passed away after a long tough fight with Cancer. I think it was in the fall. He's been doing alot of fishing trips to help keep his mind off it.
Since the last time we got together up there, I've met another 57 Ford owner from the Springs. Les is a now retired fireman with a great 300 2dr.
Rich,
I got the car back together enough for a test drive as I mentioned below. I am still having issues with the power brake equipment I bought and I have removed it again. I may look for a different type of system. If all goes well, I will drive the car on a car club event this coming weekend. I am going to try to get it in for an alignment on Friday - only change from stock will be trying to get the caster to 3 degrees.
The steering seems plenty fast with the 16:1 ratio. I don't know what the turns would be with the 14:1 ratio, but if my math is right, it would be about 3 turns lock to lock.
Rich
Rich, after all is said and done, are you happy with your Borgeson conversion?
'69 & '70 Boss and Mach 1 Mustangs were 16:1 (PS or manual) in the CAN AM era. By OEM standards, the ratio was considered 'quick'. My '69 Mach 1 was quite responsive considering OEM power steering. After removing the power steering, parking was brutal!!! Anything for performance.