Since getting this car..It's been mostly a maintenance issue....... so far... a lot of clean up
Good tune on the drivetrain.. wires, plugs, Carb rebuild,etc etc.
But it's coming slowly
Things that have been done so far....
New fuel tank....original was filled with junk and garbage.
New fuel sender and new fuel lines.
Replaced the rear bumper----old one was so banged up.
New exhaust, the previous owner backed in to a curb or so and smoked the pipes and bracketry.... had a major exhaust leak... but thankfully the exhaust manifolds were not damaged.
At first I was told all the tires were new.... well they were..but the car was un-used for a while the fronts developed dry rot...so new fronts have been replaced.
Brakes are all new and new masters have been installed.
Front suspension is good and tight..but the factory sway bar had been out of joint for years...fixed that.
Shift points adjusted on the C-6 and works very well with a nice hard shift at about 4500rpm....otherwise.normal cruising is very favourable.
Trashed the $40 dollar Chinese Summit valve covers for some stock covers..... I noticed that the bolts very super loose... upon tightening them down semi snug..... the rockers got very noisy and started to punch through the cheap covers.I measured the height and a factory set of tin covers were 1/4 inch higher.
Problem solved..... but I never heard of this..ever......
New fuel lines,new fuel pump and filters.After changing the tank... it was a good idea to replace it all.
Interior has all been painted and only a very few small pin holes were located in the trunk area after really looking at it and a very good cleaning.This car was VERY dirty.
With every build I have done in the past..... they always started at ground zero.....meaning I stared to pull everything apart and go at it.
Not with this car.I have much to do and Wiring is next.I have seen the Narragansett kits and i would love to get one..I will go another route and get a simple 12 circuit system..... Cost is an issue.I want to drive this and do work at it comes....making it roadworthy is the goal right now.I just can't mentally take 5-8 years on a complete build....done that too many times.and its too draining.
Anyhow..I will update as more progress continues.
Eventually I will replace the rockers,and rear lower quarters.... but it's not a major issue at his moment
Never heard of rockers hitting valve covers either, unless there rollers. Is that the FE or 460 57?
Was it originally black?
It's an early 460... I inquired about the covers to some local Ford guys and they asked if it had cheap off shore valve covers.....and yes it did.
They are now replaced with Orinal Ford tin covers.
I have the codes and the car was Dresden Blue and colonial white.The doors are off a black 57....
Iv'e always liked the look of the "Power By Ford" early covers anyway. Only other ones I'd swap out for would be the original aluminum
Cobra-jets or the Blue Thunder plain finned ones. If you ever put in a bigger cam or rollers in you would a least have to double up on
the gaskets for the stock tin covers.
That car is the bomb, man. I like everything about it. Drive it and enjoy it.. i have had mine going on 10 years, and have yet to drive it. I cant see me taking it back down once it is driving.
we've all had these major projects, and your show cars were no slouches, Jeff. You did the utmost right thing to keep this car together and make it a rolling restoration, Congrats to that decision, honestly !!!
that car is supercool and it's even cooler when driven daily.
Although everybody and especially Jay warned me not to tear it apart, my Del Rio is in 1000 pieces and will be for another 5-10 years. Even though I always do things on it.
My next car is on the way and I will handle it completely different this time. clean it, repair it, drive it, repair it some more, and again drive it.
those Custom 300 2drs are just really mean street warriors. they look fast even when standing still. love it !
Couldn't have said it better than DJ. Totally agree.
So, the plan is what now on the first one? Now that you have a dd with this one, it would be the best of both worlds to tear into the second one.
Agreed Guenther..... Time is a real precious commodity.With my daughter finishing High school and then heading to University in a year soon..plus my work schedule is so heavy..time is a very hard thing to get with me.
Rich, I have the other 57 in a storage facility at the present time.....truth be told..I have run out of space to work on it,... Since winter is nearly here now.. the last spot is taken by my wife.The Other 57 (my first one is too nice to be left outside during the winter months....or really at any time.)The North East just has to much moisture for that and it would be eaten alive.
I thought about a Lift..but the shop's ceilings are too low.
Anyhow...I still have lots to do on this 57....I have to re-wire and install a new gauge cluster.
This car needs a bit of TLC....The previous owner had very bad health issues and just could not work on it anymore.I hold nothing against him as he is a fine gentleman.
And yes Guenther, ...Jay is correct...... always has given sound advice.
And thanks James for pushing me to go after this 57.... it's been really worth it.
I shall post up more progress very soon!
Thanks guys.
Doing my duty, man..lol
Valve covers: I have Harland Sharp roller rockers on one of my 460s. The OEM Cobra Jet, Ford Racing and old time Mickey Thompson aluminum valve covers clear with no issues. I've even had OEM tin covers temporarily installed. If I installed stud girdles, the OEM, Cobra Jet covers would not clear.
Major projects VS Beaters: I started with a '57 Beater...not quite Rat Rod but just barely functional. I cut it up, modified, and up graded what was necessary to keep it moving faster and more reliable. Completed 2009 Hot Rod Power Tour with it as a 'work in progress'. Best trip ever!!!! I tore it apart in 2009 to finish it out. It seems a million hours has went into it with a million to go. Sometimes I get a little overwhelmed...my biological clock is ticking real loud! I bought the Raunch Wagon beater as something to drive in the interim. I've added new tires, wheels, power disc brakes, aluminum radiator, heater, LED bulbs, radio, rebuilt the transmission and rear end, new windshield and a few other things. Power steering is on the list as well as replacing the door glass and anti rattle hardware. The rockers and quarter bottoms are raggedy and the 30 year old Earl Scheib, charcoal grey paint is dull, peeling and looks like primer. This car is my daily driver. Anytime---anywhere. When people ask; "When you going to paint it"? I just smile, start it up, listen to the glass packs, and drive away. I'm 17 again!
Perfect answer Gary.
Cleaning up the engine and bay.as I mentioned ,rebuilt 650,stocker valve covers new fuel system etc,etc....
I really love 58-59 Air Cleaners
What Gary says ! There has never been a time in the last 20 years that I didn't have a beater car to drive, while having nicely finished ones also.
What comes to mind when you look at your engine compartment, freshly serviced parts pop out much more and they bring a lot of joy, knowing what you have acomplished. with full restos in the zillions of details you loose the fun in making a single part nice and shiny/properly working. on daily drivers fresh paint on aircleaner and valve covers cost maybe $20 for the rattle cans but it looks like a $2000 engine overhaul.... :003:
BTW isn't it astounding how those FEs go into the 57 like they were made to fit ? or the other way round ? Does anybody else think that with the evolution of MEL engines and the '58 352 in the making, they KNEW back in 1956 how to design that engine bay, so they could fit the larger engine coming ?
Guenther...Ford Knew in 56 all about the new FE and MEL's..I am sure of it.... It must have been an exciting time to be a designer or engineer working at Fords test track back then.
Jeff... Yesterday I went on a local rod run. About a dozen of us from Amarillo drove down to Childress...115 miles south. We were going to see a collection of Fords owned by a Childress collector. Some of us actually had no clue we were actually going to participate in a car show that was going on in old downtown area of Childress right in front of an old building that back in the day housed a few car dealerships, but now houses a small portion of the classsic collections of two locals. Anyway, there were about 40 or 50 cars in the streets, I was told "no registration, no fees, just park and have a good time". Jeff, your probably already figured out what I'm leading up to...
I had tons of people around my car all morning, more so than most others there. I think folks in general are really digging the fact it's a Ford. After answering questions/talking to one gentleman for about 15 or 20 minutes I realized I was talking to the man who owned the collection we were going to see, that I was parked in front of. I do believe he's the same guy who told me earlier he sold a nice project car to some artist fella up in Canada. My old age memory is getting really bad, but I think his name was Larry? Gillette??
Also there was some short guy with a long grey Goat-tee that drove a stock model t (?) down from Wellington.
Forgot to post a pic....
Rich..I spoke with Bob a week ago(we were catching up) and I mentioned the pic you have shown.... he does remember and says hello.Yes.. you were at Larry Gillette;s street party thing...Larry has an Amazing collection and is a 1956 Ford fanatic..I believe he is the president of the American Organization of 56 Fords.He is the man I bought my 1st. 57 from.(The B/W one)
Well. after road testing the 57 this past summer and getting the car up to snuff.... the 57 performed flawlessly.As mentioned..it was in need of a dire tune up.The complete fuel system has been changed... new tank,new fuel pump,complete lines right to the carb.The car drives straight,stops and steers very well.I do plan to install a front sway bar set up before spring as it does wallow in cornering.
Performance wise, that big ole BB is mighty torquey and loves to really giddy up.The rear end leak was again poor maintenance and just required a new gasket and for a seal and fresh gear lube.
The hillbilly exhaust has been replaced and a nice 2 inch exhaust give it a very nice growl with no excessive noise in the car.
The front marker light/turn signal pods needed attention as the driver's side was not working and upon inspection I replaced the whole unit with a spare and it is working well.
Since the winter month are upon us up here... my attention is now turned to cleaning up the inside.This car was very dirty....I repaired a few very small tiny holes in the floor and have repainted the floor and complete roof area,floor,trunk and side panels.I used an aftermarket light grey rust paint and it covers very well.Opened up all the window inspection plates and serviced the all the winders...
More.....
Right now I am building a loom for the rear of the car..... the wiring is a tad brittle and it's just old.Now that the car is an empty shell.. it is a good time to replace the gauge cluster with a factory model.I am also replacing the steering wheel with a T bird unit that a friend gave me.He works at a high end restoration shop and they were throwing the wheel away....He scooped it out the trash bin and brought it over(it's really amazing what these guys chuck away!)
I have 3 or 4 gauge clusters and made one.I completed took it apart and cleaned,painted the inside,repainted the gauge sticks, replaced all the bulbs with LED bulbs for a brighter face.I ordered a new speedo cable thru Lokar for a 57 Ford and a C6 combo.... easy set up.I am test fitting the gauge cluster then I will paint the dash.
I have the Bench seat out now and for the time being I will put in the black bench I bought from KYOval (MANY Thanks!) I have already made my door panels and am in the process of building the rear side panels as well.My side rests are in ok shape, but i found a local upholstery lady that can re skin and mach the light grey.The pass. side is in great shape but the drivers side needs attention.On the gauge cluster..I will not be using the fuel or Temp gauges...I have already installed a 4 gauge package to read the cars vitals...I trust them better.
Looks really nice and clean. Did you spray or roll/brush that paint?
Zap - :unitedstates:
As soon as these projects are wrapped up...A very good friend who owns a service centre in a town near me..is allowing me to use his lift over a few weekends....At that time I will post a few before and after shots of the underside.Someone.at some point.. sprayed a white gravel guard under coating..... I have bought an oscillating tool the will quickly remove all the crap...I will then repaint the entire underneath over a few weekends.
For now...I have my hands full and hopefully i can get there before Christmas.
Overall.I am pleased with this car.
Quote from: Zapato on 2016-11-30 07:49
Looks really nice and clean. Did you spray or roll/brush that paint?
Zap - :unitedstates:
Zap...I did it both ways.. rolled,brushed and sprayed.I sprayed in the very difficult areas of the roof area.... all the little nooks and crannies.I had to seal myself in the car...(with a mask) because I did not want any over spray on the other cars.
Thank you!
Well, Jeff, looks like You've OFFICIALLY jumped into the 1957 Ford club instead of hangin' around the outskirts, lol.
I like what your doing with 57/#2. You're making a dependable great looking dd in short order.
I ain't gonna ask who got ya that Texas farm road #1932 sign. Very cool, hmmm have to see if there's a farm road 1957...may need another roadtrip! lol.
Thanks Rich.
Eventually the body and it's ugliness will be taken care of... but for too long I have languished on 6-8 year projects..... Never again.
That farm sign Mysteriously showed up one day..... ha ha ha ...with bullet holes!
JFYI.....Texas Farm to Market 1957 is just outside of San Antonio!, "although technically redesignated as Urban Road 1957 a few years ago, it is still signed as FM1957.
Jeff, loving how you still use your garage doing work on the 300 even though your precious Hotrods are parked next to each other. we don't want to hurt those pretty cars, but it doesn't hurt to look at them all the time either. :003:
My 34 is parked at my parents place over winter and I do miss it a lot.
That's one bad boy 57 Custom 300. Three5 street race lookers are cool but don't even come close to the agressive looks of a 57 Custom. looks like going a 100 while standing still.
I still deeply Love a traditional Hot Rod G...........always will...... but a 57 Ford is different car....I would never call mine a "Hot Rod".... but more of a "Modified production car"...... which deeply fascinates me.
Working around the other stuff can be tight..... but we will make it work!.... Thanks you!
Got the interior insulated.. I found a product which has the same qualities as Dynamat.... and 70% cheaper.. many locals swear by it....The wire loom is built and ready to go in.
Quote from: Jeff Norwell on 2016-12-03 22:06
Got the interior insulated.. I found a product which has the same qualities as Dynamat.... and 70% cheaper.. many locals swear by it....The wire loom is built and ready to go in.
Jeff.......can you please post the product information on this insulator material. I can't read the manufacturer, SKU etc. in the photo.
Thanks
John
Sure thing John
The Part #is 100901,stock code is BSDE
The website is www.dominionsureseal.com (http://www.dominionsureseal.com)
There are 10 sheets of 8x20 in a pack,highly flexible and is a peel and stick application.You will need a wall paper roller to ensure a good fit.But very very easy to work with.Once it's down.... its down.It follows all the contours of a floor with all its indents and nooks and crannies.
I bought 5 packs at $40 bucks Canadian.... and in American $$$...30 percent less.... your about $32 bucks a pack.
To do the entire 57 I still need 2 more packs..... I am not doing the trunk.... but if i did, I would get an additional 3 packs just to be safe.
I have no idea what Dynamat costs down your way... but up here its about $400-$450 for a pack and it would not cover half of the interior of my 57.
Anyhow.... I need to buy 3 more packs just to be safe.The 5 packs I got did 80% of the entire interior of the 57........4 hours work time.Very easy.
At my age I'm not sure I need tampons in my car..... :005: :005: :005:
Putting all seriousness aside Jeff, that is really good to know info. Thanks much for posting!
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2016-12-04 08:56
At my age I'm not sure I need tampons in my car..... :005: :005: :005:
Putting all seriousness aside Jeff, that is really good to know info. Thanks much for posting!
I knew I was in trouble Bill after I posted that! lol!!!
Took the day off to go to a local indoor swap meet.... always nice to see your local gear heads and chew the fat with folks in your hobby you have not seen for a while..... lots of people,many vendors and the show had some very good deals
I scored a few good items and only spent about $150 bucks.
The Ranchero/wagon Bumper was in very good shape.. driver quality.... but the bumperettes were not anything I have ever seen from Ford.
Jeff you did great. I think what you got is a 58 Ranchero and SD only rear bumper.
the bumperettes look even better than the og 57 ones. I am sorry that bumper has wire holes in the wrong place ( under the bumperetts) so it's no good for a 57 sdn and you will have to drop that bumper at Jay's place for me asap.... :003: :002:
Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2016-12-04 16:07
Jeff you did great. I think what you got is a 58 Ranchero and SD only rear bumper.
the bumperettes look even better than the og 57 ones. I am sorry that bumper has wire holes in the wrong place ( under the bumperetts) so it's no good for a 57 sdn and you will have to drop that bumper at Jay's place for me asap.... :003: :002:
:005: :005: :005:
If you don't want those bumperettes, I'd buy them.
Quote from: gasman826 on 2016-12-04 16:36
If you don't want those bumperettes, I'd buy them.
Gary.. you can have them... I have a few thing to search out for Jay...I will unbolt them and send them to you.
The quality is an ok state... but with your talent you can make them nice.
Jeff
Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2016-12-04 16:07
Jeff you did great. I think what you got is a 58 Ranchero and SD only rear bumper.
the bumperettes look even better than the og 57 ones. I am sorry that bumper has wire holes in the wrong place ( under the bumperetts) so it's no good for a 57 sdn and you will have to drop that bumper at Jay's place for me asap.... :003: :002:
G..I have a decent set of Wagon bumperettes I will never use... Not sure if you need a set.
Thanx, my rear bumperettes on the CS are ok for a driver and I have another set for the Del Rio.
If I needed a pair, now I know where to ask !
That's still a great deal for your nice bumper and except for 2 little chrome plugs in those wire holes nobody will ever know. Always good to pick up bumpers by yourself, as shipping kills it all. I was happy to find fresh rechromed bumpers for the Ranch Wagon when I took it to the Long Beach swap meet.
Yay!...My 428 it ready and done....very happy.... this will go into the other 57..the Texas car...backed by a wide ratio 4 speed top loader...
Curious Jeff, what cam are you running in the 428?
Nothing sweeter then a tri-power! Love it Jeff!
Quote from: lalessi1 on 2017-02-01 17:00
Curious Jeff, what cam are you running in the 428?
Seeing it has adjustable rockers I hope it's a solid lifter cam, but some people use them with a hydraulic. I use a factory 427 solid in my 390, I like solid lifters :003:
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2017-02-02 09:02
Seeing it has adjustable rockers I hope it's a solid lifter cam, but some people use them with a hydraulic. I use a factory 427 solid in my 390, I like solid lifters :003:
Yes Jim..solid lift cam....Adjustable rockers and the upper valve train is squared away with them retaining pieces on the rocker assembly.
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2017-02-02 08:36
Nothing sweeter then a tri-power! Love it Jeff!
I have to agree Bill.....To be honest and frank...I really wanted a 406...but after chasing the dogs tail,being disappointed.I stayed with the mighty 428.I am very happy.and as we know...for out and out performance....a single Holley with the right intake would give more power...but,I want a street car where torque is more important.
Quote from: lalessi1 on 2017-02-01 17:00
Curious Jeff, what cam are you running in the 428?
Lynn, the cam is a Crane.....523 lift,227 duration... nothing crazy....solid lift with adjustable rockers.
I admit I knew very little about these Ford engines...(Well all Fords) but after being here and listening to guys like you,Pat,Jay,James,Tom,,Jim,etc,etc,etc....I have learned a ton.The gentleman doing this is a all out Ford man and FE'S are his thing.....Don is great and Gary J. on here was instrumental in getting me together with Don(the engine fellow)....
P.S.---- Gary J..... saw your 427.....Ooooooo wee..... wow.she is a Beaut!
Don has broke the engine in,and had it running for a few days on his Dyno......Re-jetted the carbs as they were a tad rich..... engine runs and starts on the first key....I am pleased.
I want to run older steel stamp Baldies on this engine...but I may have to come up with a PVC system.....I just like valve covers with no PVC,breathers or oil fills...... but If I run the original Merc canted covers..I am good with that too.The engine will be black..... Not Ford corporate blue.
Quote from: Jeff Norwell on 2017-02-02 09:29
Yes Jim..solid lift cam....Adjustable rockers and the upper valve train is squared away with them retaining pieces on the rocker assembly.
I like those rocker shaft end supports, I've thought about using them but haven't got around to it yet. I miss my tri-power and wish I hadn't sold it but at the time I was running the engine ( destroked 428 ) in my 66 F250 with a 4.10 rear end and it was a daily driver and 4 mpg was killing me :005: but it left many Chebby hot rods wondering how they got beat by a 3/4 ton truck :003:
As for exhaust..I still have these old 2 piece Hedman headers... which were specifically made for a FE install for a 57-59 swap(1962 vintage).... I know they are not the most up to date performance application on the market.. but I think they are cool and love the old school flanges.Tubes are only 1.75... but they are better than a flat manifold.
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2017-02-02 09:58
I like those rocker shaft end supports, I've thought about using them but haven't got around to it yet. I miss my tri-power and wish I hadn't sold it but at the time I was running the engine ( destroked 428 ) in my 66 F250 with a 4.10 rear end and it was a daily driver and 4 mpg was killing me :005: but it left many Chebby hot rods wondering how they got beat by a 3/4 ton truck :003:
Ha hahahaha.......That's AWESOME Jim!
Those headers are really cool pieces! Never seen anything like that before. What kind of numbers did you get on the dyno?
Quote from: rmk57 on 2017-02-02 10:09
Those headers are really cool pieces! Never seen anything like that before. What kind of numbers did you get on the dyno?
Nothing super crazy....365-375 @4000 rpm and Torque was about 525.
I opted for a sensible street engine... Driving is the plan....
Quote from: Jeff Norwell on 2017-02-02 10:19
Nothing super crazy....365-375 @4000 rpm and Torque was about 525.
I opted for a sensible street engine... Driving is the plan....
Those numbers are more then you will ever need in a street machine :003: I love the headers, looks like a cast flange and steel tubes, very unique..
Sorry a little off topic but when FE's are the subject I light up :burnout:..
Heres my old one from my Chevy killing sleeper truck when I pulled it out.
Love it Jim!!!...Love them early 60's Ford Trucks....I would LOVE to have a 61-61 unibody short box.... But the Warden has already fired a warning shot over the bow.... I am anchored in the harbour. hahahah....Killer engine.. do you still have it?
Jeff that plate on the rear of the intake is for the PCV. Ford used a "can" on the sheet metal plate that stuck into the valley. There was a simple nipple on it that fed a "twisted" pipe that fed a PCV valve that screwed into the rear of the third carb base. The front left side of the manifold should have a tube for oil fill and a breather. The correct breather will have a wrap around sheet metal baffle that is designed to "catch" air from the fan.
link to a pic http://www.hptrends.com/PCVCover.htm
PCV basket http://www.hptrends.com/basket.htm
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2017-02-02 10:56
Jeff that plate on the rear of the intake is for the PCV. Ford used a "can" on the sheet metal plate that stuck into the valley. There was a simple nipple on it that fed a "twisted" pipe that fed a PCV valve that screwed into the rear of the third carb base. The front left side of the manifold should have a tube for oil fill and a breather. The correct breather will have a wrap around sheet metal baffle that is designed to "catch" air from the fan.
Awesome Bill.....Yes.....I noticed the block off plate and did not inquire yesterday.(I was just too excited to ask,..I was like a 12 year old kid)..Is this something I can still purchase or is strictly a "Start scrounging" piece?
I am not picking up the engine for a few months,. until the snow is gone....so I can start a list on stuff I need.
Quote from: Jeff Norwell on 2017-02-02 10:41
Love it Jim!!!...Love them early 60's Ford Trucks....I would LOVE to have a 61-61 unibody short box.... But the Warden has already fired a warning shot over the bow.... I am anchored in the harbour. hahahah....Killer engine.. do you still have it?
Between thee warden and the cost of insurance I'm down to 4 cars now, my 3 and the wardens :003: I only kept the 428CJ heads, the 427 cam and valve train which are in the 390 now and in the same truck.
That engine I built was for a circle track car and was 12.1 compression so I scrapped the bottom end. Kept all those parts over the years until I built a new 390 for the truck. When I downsized the fleet the truck and a 66 mustang went to my son so they are still in the family and only a few blocks away, I still use the truck at times..
Love it Jim.glad to see the torch still burns bright.
The CR on mine is 10:1....Should be fine on hi test pump....But i was told to use Shell only....up here all other hi-test has lots of corn....Ultramar and Sunoco are ok to use....
Todays fuels sure make it hard on hot rodders. I think with the 428CJ heads and the stock 390 bore in this current motor the comp comes out to about 9.5. It runs OK on the crap California blend gas which is different than any other state, it's 10% ethanol and gods knows what else :005:
Jeff this is a little late in the game....you could have had a bullet proof 406. Use the 428 block, find a 391 heavy truck crank (they are forged vice cast), have the snout end turned to take a standard FE spacer and balancer, run a standard FE flex/fly wheel or a suitable after market piece, the rotating assembly is internally balanced as with all FEs except the 410 and 428s.
But....on one will know if you have a 332 or a 428 or any thing between.... :003:
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2017-02-02 10:56
Jeff that plate on the rear of the intake is for the PCV. Ford used a "can" on the sheet metal plate that stuck into the valley. There was a simple nipple on it that fed a "twisted" pipe that fed a PCV valve that screwed into the rear of the third carb base. The front left side of the manifold should have a tube for oil fill and a breather. The correct breather will have a wrap around sheet metal baffle that is designed to "catch" air from the fan.
link to a pic http://www.hptrends.com/PCVCover.htm (http://www.hptrends.com/PCVCover.htm)
Bill!!!!.that's a fantastic link!
Thank you!!!
This is what I need......Question.(and maybe it's silly)... but why is the port have a dual feed at the intake base(Brass fitting) Is that for a Valve cover?
PCV basket http://www.hptrends.com/basket.htm (http://www.hptrends.com/basket.htm)
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2017-02-02 12:36
Jeff this is a little late in the game....you could have had a bullet proof 406. Use the 428 block, find a 391 heavy truck crank (they are forged vice cast), have the snout end turned to take a standard FE spacer and balancer, run a standard FE flex/fly wheel or a suitable after market piece, the rotating assembly is internally balanced as with all FEs except the 410 and 428s.
But....on one will know if you have a 332 or a 428 or any thing between.... :003:
Yes..I agree Bill... but....This 428 came all done and ready.. just a few simply tricks needed to get it together....BUT......If that 460 falls down on the Iowa Dirty Bird......This will be in the back of my mind........
Why did I not marry a rich girl.... hahahaha
Hey Bill.. Upon reading further I found the answer. the brass fitting is for more vacuum ....Again.. Thanks for the info and link
Here is a link to the PCV plate/basket I used on mine...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FE-FORD-MANIFOLD-REAR-PLATE-MEDIUM-HIGH-VOLUME-PCV-VALVE-BREATHER-BASKET-/282345083981?hash=item41bd14144d:g:lQsAAOSw74FXPAIf
Thanks Lynn!
Another interesting bit of History......
Those are really cool Jeff, what a great find. Brings back the days of real hot rod shops :003:
Jeff the lower left diagram shows the "twisted" steel tube that connects the nipple to the PCV valve.
http://www.ford6v.com/images/65-69fordemissionreduction6vb[1].jpg
Couldn't figure a way to describe it to you, makes for a very clean installation.
Many Thanks Bill and Lynn for the info!..I will be looking into this.
Small update. a local friend and i did some trading... he painted my interior trim parts for both 57's..... Sorry.crappy cell shots.
The only thing he missed was painting the mirror Argent Silver...I will do that myself.... I did not have the heart to tell him.... lol
They look great. I wish my cell photos were that good!
a VERY good friend
Well.. finally got around to installing new rear rims and tires.
When I got this car it had 14 stock rear rims with a 225R/70-14 Tire.. a neat wide footprint of almost 10 inches.But with the 3:50 rear gear.. the car at hi way speeds was running at 2900 RPM's @ 60MPH.... I felt the engine was just working a tad too much at this speed or anything over 65 mph.I plan to go on some long distance runs this summer and this was not gonna cut it.Along with stress on a 44 year old engine and no history on this 460....I decided to go a bigger rim and tire size.
I purchased a few 15 inch Ford factory steelies that would accept a dog dish cap.
After purchasing a set of P-235/75 R 15 Firestones... I think they were worth it after I researched it to death.
The Stones are 29 inches tall as compared to 25.5 inches tall on the old 14's.
so the results were amazing.
225R/7014 @60 mph =2900rpm's
P235/75 R15 @60 mph=2600rpm's
The new rubber gives the ride at least 50% smoother ride.... but to be fare.I have no idea how old the 14's are...have not looked at the date codes...
Wide tires are a problem on these Fords....a 9.5-10 inch foot print is pretty much max.... but I like the fact a tall tire can easily work.Tons of height..... and again to be fare... I needed to deflate the tires to get them past the body lip.... but... that's not an issue for myself.
I do have a an extra 3:25 rear third member to yet be installed which should also bring the revs down a few more 100 rpm's.... but i like the grunt the drivetrain provides...... I am on the fence if i should install........
Anyhow..... just another update in the Dirty Bird's ongoing upgrades....
this is a super fun car too drive......
fun stuff!!!
Jeff
Did you happen to stand the mounted 225 /70 R14 tire against the P235/75 R15 to see the difference in height? I would like to have that measurement. I'm thinking that my car might need a set of 15" wheels.
I really like the stance that you ended up with and the black wall tires look real cool to me. It looks like a different car.
Yes Jay.... the difference in height was a lot.The 14's stood about 25 inches tall... the 15's stand 29 inches tall..... 4 inches in difference..... I do love the stance....But, as mentioned... you must deflate the tires to get them under the 57 fender lip(this does not bother me at all.....)
The ride height has increased about an inch or slightly higher in the rear...maybe more.I did not measure that.
The tires are Firestone Destinations ...... a good cost effective priced tire....under 150 bucks per tire.
I should mention as well. the Ford Steel rims are a 5 inch width..... I run the tires at 25 psi...as you see in the pics..... the tire and rim have mucho room within the wheel well....thank god henry made this deep pockets...on the height anyways......
If you changed to the '56 shock absorbers we've talked about in the past, you probably wouldn't have to deflate the tires to get them on. Not a big deal in the shop I realize, but on the road might be a different story. With my 235 15's and 7" wide wheels, I could get the tires on easily even before I had the case narrowed.
Car is looking great, Jeff. Nice attitude.
Jack the car up on rear axle and place jack stands under the frame so the axle can drop 5 inches, should be plenty of room. And yes to the 56 shocks although I have shock extensions for now which lets the axle drop 2-3 inches more.
Thanks guys...At this point I am not concerned about that issue... on the other 57 I may get a longer shock like Jim Nolan suggested...but now it's all good.
The car looks great Jeff. I'm also going to ditch the cragars and go with steelies & dog dish caps. Nice combo on these cars.
Quote from: Marc on 2017-06-10 13:10
The car looks great Jeff. I'm also going to ditch the cragars and go with steelies & dog dish caps. Nice combo on these cars.
Thanks Mark!!!!..take Pics!
I can't get any real work done to the Dirty Bird... cause I can't get my butt out of it long enuff!.... really warm day here(I love it) about 90 and I burned a full tank..... temp gauge never moved from 190.
I am very Happy.
I think alot of us are in that category. I put 800 miles on a 2 day trip to New Mexico last week. Ran great, no issues other that driver related, scrubbed the bugs off a few times. Took it out yesterday and put another 140 miles on it. So many small projects to do on it..........seems they can wait, lol
Come on Norwell, lets race!
Quote from: FiveSevenLiter on 2017-06-10 22:43
Come on Norwell, lets race!
Meet me half way...Saskatoon! lol
A grudge race.......Palookaville vs, Saskatoon on the polka dot planet, lol. Sounds like a plot for another Cars movie.
ha ha
You must not remember than my car has been blessed by the greatest '57 driver of all time. Parnelli won his first Nascar race in a white 300!
That's awesome Terry!
Quote from: FiveSevenLiter on 2017-06-11 20:29
You must not remember than my car has been blessed by the greatest '57 driver of all time. Parnelli won his first Nascar race in a white 300!
Okay - not exactly related to the topic - but I just got done reupholstering the seats in my '57 and was disappointed to see the driver side lays back a little farther than the passenger side.... just EXACTLY like in the picture FiveSevenLiter posted! I feel better now!
That is the good news, the bad news was he did not like the 1957. When I was putting my car together I contacted Parnelli to find out what colour wheels he ran on his car. Vel's sponsored three '57's all with different colour wheels. I was reminded Parnelli is the oldest living Indy 500 winner and he could not remember everything like wheel colours sixty years ago. But he could remember he did not like the car as much as the '56, so whenever Vel did not go to a race, Parnelli would load up the '56. It was an overwhelming day to meet him and have him sit in the car, sign the dash.
Quote from: FiveSevenLiter on 2017-06-12 23:09
That is the good news, the bad news was he did not like the 1957. When I was putting my car together I contacted Parnelli to find out what colour wheels he ran on his car. Vel's sponsored three '57's all with different colour wheels. I was reminded Parnelli is the oldest living Indy 500 winner and he could not remember everything like wheel colours sixty years ago. But he could remember he did not like the car as much as the '56, so whenever Vel did not go to a race, Parnelli would load up the '56. It was an overwhelming day to meet him and have him sit in the car, sign the dash.
Thats just too cool! I remember those Vels Fords running at many tracks, I think they also did Pikes Peak? My memory is fading with age but weren't Parnelli's cars at Riverside Nascar races Vels also, not 57's but 60's models?
hiball3985:
Boy, that shot of the 57 in the turn, I believe at Ascot Raceway brings back good memories. I was born and raised in Torrance about a mile from where Vels Parnelli Jones Ford was located. I bought my first new car from them, a 65 Mustang, ordered in July 1964, delivered in November 1964. Here's a bit of trivia for you the dealership was located in what used to be a Lucky Market, the showroom in the front and the service bays & lifts on linoleum tile floors. Those old bias ply tires really squeaked when cars were turning into or out of the bays. I sold my first 57 Ford to get the Mustang. Now, I wish I could get both of them back.
Bob
57 AGIN
sorry Jeff for getting offtopic, but
Bob, just love the old 1960's pics ! the chrome rear wheels are killer. Did you race it with the 260?
Those are cool photos. You also got to race at one of SoCals most historic dragstrips to.
djfordmanjack:
By the time I had placed my order, Ford had upgraded the engine available to the 289, I was also able to amend my original order to add the front disc brakes. So when I got my car in November I had a 289, 225hp, single quad, 4-speed and I had ordered it with a 3:50 rear gears and equa-loc. About 3 months after getting delivery I had Vel's install 3:80 rear gears, which at that time were the biggest gear set available for the 8 inch ring & pinion. Before I joined the Navy I went to a wrecking yard and bought a Ford 9 inch rear end that had 3:50 gears installed and then obtained a spare 3rd member and installed a set of 4:57 gears. With the wide ratio Borg Warner T-10 I had a launch ratio of 12.7 which let me get a 2-3 car length head start on the other cars in my class. I was turning 13.60's at 101 mph and taching right at 6,000 in the timing lights. I was living the good life, then I went into the Navy in May 1966.
By November 1966 I was out of Boot Camp and in my Electrician's Mate A School, I went back to Lions. When I arrived I saw a Galpin Motor Sports 65 Falcon being backed off a trailer and we were in the same class, G stock (280 - 300 ci), Optional, Formula 6 (single quad, hydraulic lifters). His first run was 11:20 at 112 mph. My glory days were over. But I sure had fun for the first couple of years. lol
Bob
57 AGIN
Jeff:
I, too apologize for the hijack on your beautiful 57 Custom thread.
Bob
57 AGIN
Quote from: 57AGIN on 2017-06-17 15:28
hiball3985:
Boy, that shot of the 57 in the turn, I believe at Ascot Raceway brings back good memories. I was born and raised in Torrance about a mile from where Vels Parnelli Jones Ford was located. I bought my first new car from them, a 65 Mustang, ordered in July 1964, delivered in November 1964. Here's a bit of trivia for you the dealership was located in what used to be a Lucky Market, the showroom in the front and the service bays & lifts on linoleum tile floors. Those old bias ply tires really squeaked when cars were turning into or out of the bays. I sold my first 57 Ford to get the Mustang. Now, I wish I could get both of them back.
Bob
57 AGIN
Those were the good old days. We went to Ascot occasionally, nothing was more fun then the dirt clots flying and landing in you cup of beer if you were brave enough to sit in the first few rows :003: I spent most of my Saturday nights at Saugas raceway were it was paved and Galpins 57 driven by Ron Hornaday was king, which lead to many others converting to Fords and Chevy's dominance crumbled.
One sad day my girlfriend showed up a my house with a 66 Mustang, all black in and out, 225 horse, 4 speed, disc brake. She had a 56 Tbird 312, 3spd OD that she sold to a mechanic in the shop at the dealership for $500 to use as a down payment because the dealership wouldn't take it as a trade in :005: I was ready to kill her.
Those are very cool stories ! :004:
Bob and Jim, it would be great if you could copy these into your respective build threads, so not to spoil Jeffs thread and to save them for future reference.
Any race won since, Jeff ? :003:
All good guys!!!!...I have nothing to report other than I was waaayyyyy up north with a bunch of pals...... we took our cars on a 350 mile road tour(one way to a friends place)... had a great weekend and the 57 drove with out fail!!!!!
Rain was bad and the Newport saved the day.... cruised effortless between 65-75 mph....
I did beat out two BB Mopars on the Hiway!
Great stories fellas!!!!!!
Carry on!
Sorry Jeff, seems like one story always leads to another when talking about 57's.
Thats so good hear that you had a great trip in yours and you beat my best trip of 340 miles by 10 :003: I've only been to Canada on the western side and 340 miles above the border there is absolutely nothing, just great scenery.
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2017-06-19 08:14
Sorry Jeff, seems like one story always leads to another when talking about 57's.
Thats so good hear that you had a great trip in yours and you beat my best trip of 340 miles by 10 :003: I've only been to Canada on the western side and 340 miles above the border there is absolutely nothing, just great scenery.
It's a B I G place!
hahaha
Nice stance Jeff, should look good in my rear view mirror!
Jeff
I'm happy to hear that you are enjoying your 57. I like that stance also.
Jay
Quote from: Ecode70D on 2017-06-20 13:31
Jeff
I'm happy to hear that you are enjoying your 57. I like that stance also.
Jay
Thanks Jay!... she ain't perfect but we are moving forward!
Heck....I took mine out for a short roadtrip thursday....just a couple casinos in OKlahoma, 380 mile Round trip. Now that's a perfect getaway day for me. Jim, I think Jeff said he drove 350 one way to his friend's house. Not sure what to read into that, maybe got trailered back, or too much Canadian Ale and somebody else had to deliver it home, lol.
Just yankin' your chain, Jeff. Congrats! See any moose?
It's got to be mosquito season there. Don't get outside of your car!
The trip was 350 one way,350 back home... the Dirty Bird(that's what I call her,my 57) drove flawlessly to and fro..... Oil Pressure was a constant 50lbs. and coolant temp. was 190 steady.We ran into horrific rain on the way home,no leaks and as mentioned the Newport never skipped a beat.
The only negative thing was a crosswind that would move the car around 65-75 mph coming home.... in the rain.... and the highway would have large pools of runoff water..... so running thru those can be dicey..... Hydroplaning is scary.We travelled thru the Canadian shield and if one was to go off road.... it would be somewhat fatal.
Yes.. there was much Canadian Ale,BBQ and good friends.Love a good road trip.
I plan to ditch the front fenders this week and replace them with good units off my parts car.....Hood and gravel pan too(see how the time goes with work and family)
(A fender pic attached)
These fronts are in very good shape.... a little paint wear.... but that's it...I will update when done!
Uneventful is a great feeling in these old cars. Glad you posted what you did on the winds moving the car around, as mine is the same way. Windy days can get a little scary over 65 or so until you get use to it. Open roads here in Texas gives me a lot of opportunities to get use to it, but really windy and I'll keep it at or under 60.
Considering that I have driven this box on all my trips around the US for the past 40 years in every kind of wind imaginable the 57 feels like a Ferrari to me :003:
Yes Rich.... I was wondering about this..I am not sure if a really big front sway bar would help.... like the S/W T-bird one(I think they are 1-1/8 as compared to a small FOMOCO 7/8 stock one.
Maybe it's just an inherent thing....but not sure.
I think you have an aftermarket bar in don't you?.... Heck... even my 2012 Hemi Dodge gets pushed around in bad crosswinds,,,,, so.... I imagine there is no real solution.
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2017-06-21 07:58
Considering that I have driven this box on all my trips around the US for the past 40 years in every kind of wind imaginable the 57 feels like a Ferrari to me :003:
Ha ha ha ....You win Jim.... hahahah
Speaking of sway bars.... i am going to invest in one.... this car lists like the Lusitania on corners.
The 1 1/8" sway bars really help in the cornering, but nothing for the wind. I went ahead and installed the rear one also.
Quote from: Jeff Norwell on 2017-06-21 08:01
.... this car lists like the Lusitania on corners.
ROFL! I haven't gotten to drive mine yet, so I don't know what it does in high winds... but listing like the Lucy, that there is funny! :laughing7: :laughing7:
The T-Birds SW/Concourse sway bar will help a bunch, you WILL like it. I had installed the 6 leaf springs in the back, and after driving for a while, I felt no need for the rear sway bar. My car does not feel like it's leaning in corners, period. After I eliminated some of the rake my car had, handling has been really great. I love the curvy mountain roads now and no more feeling like the rear was going to come around on downward curves. My entire suspension was rebuilt, plus the R & P steering, so I can't say how much each individually affected the handling as most everything was done before the initial drive.
Make sure you hit it with some Tremclad Black, will save you a lot of time cleaning bugs later.
T/F
Jumped off the Texas car to the driver.. replaced the grill,removed,sanded and painted the Gravel pan the proper Argent,...and gave the bumper a once over with some rustoleum....The grill is dirty,so I will give it a once over to bring out the shine.. the old grill was dented and the turn signal pods were junky....onward and upward.
doing one bit at a time is perfect with a driver car. keeping the fun. this is a great car !
Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2017-07-06 16:56
doing one bit at a time is perfect with a driver car. keeping the fun. this is a great car !
:burnout:
I've been using 0000 steel wool and chrome polish on all my chrome and stainless, mostly because I really don't want to drop big $$ on new chrome. Really cleans it up nice.
I was able to save a set of those dog dish caps like the ones on yours. At first glance I thought the chrome was beyond saving and was about to start comparing the cost of a replate to buying a better looking set, but with a little elbow grease they look great. Now just have to repaint the centers.
Aren't the dog dishes stainless?
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2017-07-07 12:48
Aren't the dog dishes stainless?
Thankfully not. I sacrificed my two worst for this.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2017-07-07 12:48
Aren't the dog dishes stainless?
No they are not .
QuoteThankfully not. I sacrificed my two worst for this.
Those look good on that Bronco!
Well... My 2 pals and my brother in law went to the Syracuse Nationals...Drove the old warhorse,warts and all to the show.... A very H U G E car show....8500 cars.... saw a few 57's... mainly some nice 57's... no customs....
It was very very hot.
The 57 ran like a champ all the way there..65-75 mph and no issues.... but at the show..so much traffic, so many people.... so very hot... my 57 never overheated... but the heat that radiated from the car was in excess... had a fuel boiling issue.. making an idle impossible.The car would sit all day on that asphalt and never cool until the sun went down.I am changing the steel fuel lines to a better rubber insulated fuel line and installing a carb insulation base plate today.Once the car got into a good travelling speed.... all disappeared.... but i have never experienced that before.
Coming home. traffic on I90 was thick and heavy.... but a massive thunderstorm developed and all cooled down nicely... just like Chuck Berry mentioned in his song.
Syracuse is a great show..and I recommend it to anyone who has never seen a spectacle like that.But.... I never need to go back......I like it a lot.. but a little to big for me.
I will never have to go to the NSRA Nationals..... I prefer much smaller shows.. and to be honest...I enjoy just driving....
Did you put your car in the show? Going to a big show at my age is getting to be too much unless I can go back to my car and sit and chat for a while. One of the neat things about a show is most guys are so easy to start a conversation with. A few weeks ago I went to the NSRA show in Colorado....maybe 1/4 the size of the one you went to. Cars were still coming in when I left 4 hours later, but just didn't have it in me to go back thru to look at what I missed the first time around. . But I'll still go to them because, as you said, the drive is worth it!!
I'm surprised that the stock radiator keeps your 460 cool. My early 460 had the stock rad to but driving in 70-80 degree weather it would slowly and surely start creeping up to 210-220 and then decide to shut it down for a while. I never did get the rad checked out, just put a big aluminum aftermarket one in. Now it never gets above 185...ever.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2017-07-17 13:45
Did you put your car in the show? Going to a big show at my age is getting to be too much unless I can go back to my car and sit and chat for a while. One of the neat things about a show is most guys are so easy to start a conversation with. A few weeks ago I went to the NSRA show in Colorado....maybe 1/4 the size of the one you went to. Cars were still coming in when I left 4 hours later, but just didn't have it in me to go back thru to look at what I missed the first time around. . But I'll still go to them because, as you said, the drive is worth it!!
Every car that gets in is in the show... but I was not even into any awards or trophy stuff... I played in that arena.. with my trad. cars..way too tiring....No. we just saw friends and met new ones....That kind of show is pretty exhausting to me..I like much ,much smaller ones.... we do our own show up here and its a pre-64 show.... we are adamant about that..... Just a bunch of good folks who have a common interest....
I found this show had too much modern stuff.... late 70's 80's and later are not my cup of tea.
Quote from: rmk57 on 2017-07-17 15:02
I'm surprised that the stock radiator keeps your 460 cool. My early 460 had the stock rad to but driving in 70-80 degree weather it would slowly and surely start creeping up to 210-220 and then decide to shut it down for a while. I never did get the rad checked out, just put a big aluminum aftermarket one in. Now it never gets above 185...ever.
My rad has no issues keeping the engine cool... runs solid at 190 all the time..... its the sheetmetal surrounding the engine that gave me the issue..... boiling the fuel..... the fuel lines were a mickey mouse set up.. with a combo of steel lines running parallel across the intake....very close.
Never seen fuel boil... strange sight.
....at any rate..I picked up a cool carb plate and gaskets..re-routed the fuel lines away from the engine and along the underside of the firewall seam.... straight down by the master.Went to a larger fuel line as well,... up to 3/8
Drained the carb.. checked the float levels ...Set the fuel air mixture screw....
Today was hotter than the weekend.. so I let the car run for 35 minutes and drove through city traffic. and the bowls were easy to touch to the hand(as before they were scalding.)
All has seemed to work.Better acceleration...zero stumble on a launch or just leaving a gentle stop.
Jeff:
Sounds like a very good work around.
Bob
57 AGIN
Thanks Bob. the only unfortunate issue is that the carb spacer,cool plate and gaskets raised the carb about an inch and the 59 Air Cleaner will not fit.... the hood will not shut.I used a ugly after market air clear in the mean time.
Looks like a great solution, Jeff. You mention switching to an ugly air cleaner - how big of a filter element are you able to fit? I am wondering roughly how much room I will have for mine.
Bill
A drop base air cleaner would cure the clearance problem. I run a Weiand stealth intake which is slightly taller than your eddy rpm with a 1/2"wood spacer. My filter is a k&n 3 1/2" x 14 with a regular Ford lid. There's around 3/4" clearance on it. I'm not even sure on the amount of drop on the base, maybe 1 1/2"? I picked it up for $5 at a swap meet.
Bill.. the element is only 2-3 inches tall and the present air cleaner is just a 15-16 inch aftermarket round style... loads of room.But the old 59 Air cleaner was like 5-7 inches in height...and would not work with the plates....I will have too mess with the old air cleaner to get it to work Bill
Quote from: rmk57 on 2017-07-18 09:48
A drop base air cleaner would cure the clearance problem. I run a Weiand stealth intake which is slightly taller than your eddy rpm with a 1/2"wood spacer. My filter is a k&n 3 1/2" x 14 with a regular Ford lid. There's around 3/4" clearance on it. I'm not even sure on the amount of drop on the base, maybe 1 1/2"? I picked it up for $5 at a swap meet.
Awesome Idea Randy!!!.thank you!
and BTW. that UGLY Davis United is gonna go to.. want a stock OEM unit with pertronix..... That DU is so ugly ... you can't drink it pretty.
Quote from: Jeff Norwell on 2017-07-17 18:52
My rad has no issues keeping the engine cool... runs solid at 190 all the time..... its the sheetmetal surrounding the engine that gave me the issue..... boiling the fuel..... the fuel lines were a mickey mouse set up.. with a combo of steel lines running parallel across the intake....very close.
Never seen fuel boil... strange sight.
....at any rate..I picked up a cool carb plate and gaskets..re-routed the fuel lines away from the engine and along the underside of the firewall seam.... straight down by the master.Went to a larger fuel line as well,... up to 3/8
Drained the carb.. checked the float levels ...Set the fuel air mixture screw....
Today was hotter than the weekend.. so I let the car run for 35 minutes and drove through city traffic. and the bowls were easy to touch to the hand(as before they were scalding.)
All has seemed to work.Better acceleration...zero stumble on a launch or just leaving a gentle stop.
Jeff, what are you using for a radiator fan?
Lynn, Not knowing any history on this car... the fan looks to be a older flex unit.It's really quite large..... The bottom pulley and top pulley are very large.bottom bigger.. they nearly touch.Again.. not super familiar with these engines, but learning.
The rad is new and fan sits 1 inch away.
The fan appears to have aluminum blades riveted to a steel center. Those started coming out in the early '70s and continued into the '80s. The blades temperature and RPM sensitive to increase air movement at lower speed/RPM and decrease drag on the engine at higher RPMs much like a clutch fan without the weight. There was a scare with some blade failures and Ford recalled tons of these fan blades. I took all the replaced blades home. I had a huge stack. Ford and Chevy fan bolt patterns were the same. A little rattle can and Chevy guys bought these fans like crazy. These fans do a good job, are light, and rob little horse power. There might be an engineering number on it somewhere. A little too close to the radiator for my comfort.
The larger the pulley, the newer. Again there is often engineering numbers.
I have an early Ford flex fan in the attic, I was aware they were recalled. I am running a Flex-a- Lite fan of similar design (no shroud) but my car will overheat a little in traffic. I have a 3" core aluminum Griffin radiator and I am installing A/C and power steering now. I am "Frankensteining" my setup now and I moved the radiator 2" forward so I have room for an electric fan (or a clutch fan I have too)... just curious.... I like mechanical fans for simplicity, BUT...
My system works...and thats good enough for now.... as for comparing daily drivers to the cars we use for a hobby....apples and oranges.. just my thoughts.
I am very happy how how all is working on this rolling test lab.
Quote from: Jeff Norwell on 2017-07-19 19:43
My system works...and thats good enough for now.... as for comparing daily drivers to the cars we use for a hobby....apples and oranges.. just my thoughts.
I am very happy how how all is working on this rolling test lab.
I agree Jeff. Our daily drivers have the advantage of controlling every bit of air to make sure it moves through the radiator. Add to that the computer controls timing, mixture, and RPM to keep temps down.
The hot rods/customs/original "toys" we play with just need two things, lots of air and lots of water! All three 62 - 65 Birds (390 + .030 over) I have built had shrouds and clutch fans. All of them ran spot on in parades with the air turned on. My 36 hot rod will heat up just a touch with a single Spal 16" electric, but it does cycle on and off with a 200* switch. Its radiator is three row copper 16" X 25".
Yes Bill.
I fully agree.Both my 32's are in the complete traditional fashion... bias plys,etc,etc... one is a fire breathing 600+hp,thats chopped and channelled.The other is a supercharged unit.I call these "Bar Hoppers"... if anyone here has a Hard tail Motorcycle.. that is what they are like..... fun to drive.. but on a very limited leash.
My 300 we are talking about here can really stretch her legs due to the sheer simplicity.... and so will my Texas 57(only I am aiming for a finished paint and interior.)...I prefer these days to stay with performance items that came from factory.I have done the speed parts and all that.... fun.very fun.. but i am past that at this point.
I just want, in the end....... to have 2 good drivers..and the Texas 57 to be a cream puff nice old car.
Well... Have not been around of late..... Work is so busy, which is good and now our daughter is leaving for University soon,,,, so that is now on our plate.
Bigger news is our home is up for sale and it's time to downsize...Selling your home and all its requirements are a REAL pain in the Butt.
I can't believe we have that much stuff.
The only thing I have done on the 57 is new McVeigh springs and a New big front HD sway bar..... I had plans of getting so much more done but..showing a home takes a ton of time.
The Housing market has cooled off as compared to the red hot sales of last year(Go figure!..I am always a dollar short and a day late!)But saying that... the market still has not dropped off in housing prices..... but interest rates are climbing.
good luck with that...major undertaking...but also quite the adventure
downsizing usually means larger garage!
Quote from: gasman826 on 2018-04-07 07:35
downsizing usually means larger garage!
When my wife comments that the garage is bigger then the house I always respond "As well it should be" which always gets an unrepeatable comment... :<)
Jeff, I wish you luck, we just got done with our down sizing move. I started getting ride of stuff 3 years ago when we desided this was going to happen. After you live in one place for 40+ years you gather up a lot of stuff, esp. car parts, I took stuff to swap meets sold lots, JOV from Canada came down twice and took a bunch, the crusher got a very large part. gasman is right, it's quit a adventure, one I don't ever want to do again. My new shop and garage is ok but not near big enough, so am still selling down. Not fun but had to be done. Take care, Alvin
Thanks guys.
We have been looking from one end of the Province to the other(big Province) I found a place in the area of where I grew up...Ottawa/Brockville near the St. Lawrence Seaway... it had a fully done 6000+ Square ft shop!!!....But my better half wasn't fond of the home.
Nixed---dang
We are focusing on selling right now and the house has had a lot of action.....
Yea..I am not worried about the house contents.. but my shop is another story...I have a 24x18 shed that is Packed with car stuff and my shop is filled too.5 cars and parts are going to be a lot...... I really don't look forward to this.
But our present property is very large, and we don't need a 5 bedroom house....
When we moved to this home.. the city was a distant memory....but the "town" next to us has grown to 4x the size since we got here and the big city is knocking at our doorstep....Just too many people and we gotta go.... back deeper in the country.
I knew this day would happen.
ha ha ha
sea box time
Well. our home has sold.... and a new home has been found.. in a very small town or village.. now the packing has begun.... Lots of work.... we move in mid July.
I have had very little time to work on the driving 57 at the moment as my shop is pretty much all packed up... but I did mange to get the new sway bar in over the winter and finally install the McViegh spring set up.
Went for a test run last weekend..... world of difference!
The wagon 6 spring set up sure beats out 50-60 year old stock springs!.... gave the car a better attitude and drives much better.... ride has improved by 100%
The sway bar is what really surprised me.. the stock 7/8 factory bar sure pales to the 1-1/8 sway bar I bought from Larry's T-bird... Not only can the car handle much better in a twisty road condition..... the steering itself has seemed to great improve with very little wander at any driving speed.
So the old warrior seems to be improving...... I am happy and I love the new attitude and stance.
The car is looking great, and the sway bar and 6 leaf springs I certainly agree make a world of difference. Are you still running stock spindles in the front? I ask because it looks a bit higher than mine in the front, but the rake itself looks like you may have the dropped spindles. I love the rake yours has, and mine had, but I was having some handling issues when turning a curve downhill..........backend seemed to float. That was surprisingly solved/eliminated by adding 1" lowering blocks in the back. :canada:
Just awesome looking :notworthy:
Thanks Jim!
Rich,Stock front spindles.... The rake is helped greatly with a 195-14 front tire and a 235-15 rear...... I have thought about a rear sway bar...but I just can't do it from a visual stand point....Saying that i have no issues with swift corners and big dives as before with a stock front sway bar.I even feel the drivability has improved..... no vibrations thru the car or anything.The ride is much much firmer but not harsh... going over ruff road patches has disappeared with this new spring set up.
I guess I wanted to sort all the drive line and mechanical issues out before attacking any cosmetic body fixes......I DETEST bodywork.... And Thanks as well Rich!
Jeff, I put the rear on mine, I don't understand the visual concern? You can't even see it unlike the front one..
Jim..I was a t a local show last year and spotted a Fairlane with one on the back.. it hung very low..saying that. the gentleman could have installed it wrong..I just did not like the long bar that hung down when I saw it..... who knows....
Anyhow.... I have a few more mechanical issues i want to concentrate at this point.....nothing major....but the car is performing very well from when i first got it...
I like the fact I can trust it to really go anywhere and feel confident.I will research the rear sway bar further! :burnout:
Jeff, maybe we are talking about two different companies. Mine mounts above the axle, it's from Concourse and the same one Southwest T birds sell. I'm not really sure if you even need it with 6 leaf springs I just bit the bullet and went for both :003:.
It's good to feel like you can go anywhere, I've just been doing a lot of small 300 mile round trips on weekends.
Quite possible Jim....I never asked the man where his rear sway bar was from..I just passed by.
The moving game...... well Half the shop is stacked and ready to be moved... This weekend will be ..busy.
My wife calls me a Hoarder...... I prefer "Recycler"...... :burnout:
Good luck with the move. If I ever had to move again I told the wife I would rent a backhoe and dig a big hole to throw everything in and just drive away :burnout:
The struggle is real Jim.
You're young, you'll survive, lol. At 71, it was hell on me moving last year. How far away is the new home?
Oh, and I'd be really surprised if after driving your car for a while, you felt it needed the rear sway bar.
ha ha ha ......
Rich.. we are moving about an hour deeper into the countryside..... Amish territory .... 20 minutes from Lake Huron.
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2018-06-08 09:09
You're young, you'll survive, lol. At 71, it was hell on me moving last year. How far away is the new home?
Oh, and I'd be really surprised if after driving your car for a while, you felt it needed the rear sway bar.
Rich.. here is where we are going.........
https://www.visitgrey.ca/unique-grey/communities/neustadt
Well... been a very busy year... so much so..Really don't know where 2018 went...... A year ago today ,we decided to sell and move,our daughter was graduating and getting off to go to school,.... Re-vamping the old house,selling,buying and moving,along with my hectic work schedule....being a partner in a car show and all that entails,.... it has been very busy.
But of course..... I started some big changes to my driving 57,..... Started off to just....."replace the rockers"..... well. we all know how that turns out.............
So.... after a year or 2 of getting the mechanics worked out and driveabiltly to a nice area..... I decided to do some body repair....well.... or i thought so......
When i bought this car.... I knew it had some horrible work done in the past... but to be honest.. horrible sins are dictated by the size of your wallet and ability.Things in bodywork done 10,15 or 20 years ago...just don't fly today or last.So I can never be harsh on previous work.
And we all know that the general intent of Ford, was to SELL cars....NOT create machines to last longer that 10 years.
At any rate... I have a few VERY talented friends that excel in metal fabrication and body repair..... Hard to get them because they are never slow....
my pal Rob P. is quite amazing.... builds,fabs in metal and is a deep interest in Blacksmithing and has a forge... makes all kinds of neat stuff..Owns a couple of early fords and really isn't afraid of any challenge.Rob did a TON of work on Hotrod Donnies gold/maple sugar 57 Ford.
So he agreed to work on the car and change out the rockers and maybe a bit of dent work....
He called me and asked"What do you want to do with this car?"
After looking at the car and attacking the rockers.... it had some serious issues...... We needed to replace the rear quarters(lower area)(Front,rear and complete fender lip..both sides) and the tail-pan was junk.
And so it began........
drivers side.....
Someone.at one time..filled the rockers with foam.... but moisture and crap...... just stays in and is trapped..... funny thing. in brand new cars.. they use this practice.... On Dodge ram trucks.. in the doors,tail gates and beds..... rust just happens and never sleeps.
(https://i.imgur.com/bfbhJSu.jpg)
The passenger side was equally as bad....Please note.... the next bunch of pics are not for the weak. hahahah
(https://i.imgur.com/Fv3HnKD.jpg)
There was much rot and rust on the lower quarters.. both sides.... I had EMS panels for this day and used them......At least the only foam was in the rockers... the inner braces and inner panels were in excellent shape.. all coated and painted before the outer quarters installed.
The rear pan was also EMS and installed.
My car is a custom 300.... but I now chose to use just custom trim.Now was the time.
Inner Pass. wheel well had issues and was dealt with from my parts car.
(https://i.imgur.com/QKUKbUF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sOzwnhx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sIkWNYB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/O89zgRC.jpg)
All the panels have been coated to prevent any further deterioration.
(https://i.imgur.com/tK5wVdv.jpg)
The front fenders.....
I have a few sets of front fenders... some good,some horrible(just used for sections)... I picked my best set,thinking they were really good...
the fenders that were on the car had some terrible rot in all the usual places..... The headlight area was literally sculpted in fibreglass ..... the lower sections of the fenders at the bottoms were just as bad.
Fenders that were on the car.
(https://i.imgur.com/HsWNZyn.jpg)
The inner fender boxes(behind the grill) were toast... fortunately,..I have several very good sets... they have been replaced and painted.. waiting to install(sorry...no other pics)
(https://i.imgur.com/3lhJs1L.jpg)
Back to my new fenders... which I thought were good......
I have a good friend Tom......and Tom made the repairs on the replacement fenders... they needed Lower patches and had some pin hole rust issues.. all done and ready.
Before......
(https://i.imgur.com/ihjWl3b.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oAcuurB.jpg)
Stripped and getting repaired......All custom 300 holes filled...
(https://i.imgur.com/Jw1aaJW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kNRLovu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Sqradxm.jpg)
Fenders ready for paint......
(https://i.imgur.com/4IcOcLa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TjLGeIw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/a66Td9U.jpg)
(Note).... I have the fender Eyebrows.... which I will be panel bonding in the next few days.
Jeff, very nice work sir. Been down that exact same road with my Ranchero. The black front seat that I see in the photos.......is that the seat I shipped to you?
John
Chin up Norwell, you know you are going to have fun driving it!
Quote from: KYBlueOval on 2018-12-10 09:09
Jeff, very nice work sir. Been down that exact same road with my Ranchero. The black front seat that I see in the photos.......is that the seat I shipped to you?
John
Yes John. it is!..... I am getting it upholstered very soon.
Quote from: FiveSevenLiter on 2018-12-10 09:14
Chin up Norwell, you know you are going to have fun driving it!
Oh .I'm not depressed in the least...I am quite happy to get this thing straighten out...... I am in a good place.... and with the help of some good friends..I have no issues........I have had some good advice Here and abroad.!
The 460/C6 has left the building......
(https://i.imgur.com/DBGhHRL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/F4nZ23v.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8VpKkFT.jpg)
A very fresh 428/4 speed is ready for installation....
(https://i.imgur.com/N64cg6P.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FHNHrHT.jpg)
Awesome work! I have never seen headers like that (love the 428), they are WAY COOL!!!. Toploader? what gear shifter are you using?
Lynn.... The headers are Hedman units from 61-62.... made for a FE swap into a 57-59 Ford pass. car. Got lucky a few years ago...Never seen a set since....
As for a shifter....I was looking at a super comp 2(?) Hurst unit.... nearly fell off my chair when I saw those prices.....
But Have not made any decisions yet.
Btw Lynn.. looking close on a thread you did a while back on your Transmission mount....
Plans are to use a Modified Z-Bar set up for Clutch and such.
The worst area on the car was the dreaded dog leg/A pillar section... and the forward bottom area around the front windshield.I was horrible.
I had a complete parts car when i purchased this car... and that area(s) on the parts car.. were perfect.
So repairs were made.
Before ......passenger side
(https://i.imgur.com/qAL17PG.jpg)
Drivers side ........
(https://i.imgur.com/lLzoEr2.jpg)
With the old body work on before.... you would have never really seen anything... until you began to dig.... someone did a patch sleeve panel over top on the drivers side....
But.... all cleaned and replaced....
all the internal metal was cleaned as best as possible and coated in the channel areas of the A pillar and inside the affected dog leg/drain area.
Paid VERY close attention to Guenther's post on his repair work to his wagon.... that guy is fantastic.
(https://i.imgur.com/xbOwA0m.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DMgRFvQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HRjdVHt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jNKK9uj.jpg)
I noticed the car has the upper block off plate for the heater, so it must have been a southern car at some point. I'm wondering how it became so rusty. Looks like it's turning really nice and will be a blast with the 428, 4-spd in there.
It is a southern car Randy.I decoded the VIN plate.. was made in October of 57 at the Dallas plant..... Same plant my other 57 was made.... just a month before....
The story I got from the previous owner is that he bought the car from a Native kid...... who lived on a reservation in Iowa.... and there it stayed.
The previous owner I believe...... had this car from the mid-80's on.... so.....
Where the Native kid got it from.... no idea.
But were gonna save her! hahah
Jeff, I am using a Competition Plus on mine. The Toploader requires a 90 degree bend in the 1st/2nd actuator arm on the shifter. Hurst has 2 models (that I know of) that offer this. One 3913180 has an integral handle, the other 3915405 has a bolt on handle. I tried both, the 3180 requires a bigger hole and it does work with a small boot, the other 5405 requires a smaller hole and allows you to posistion the shifter knob where you want it. The 5405 is for a 63 Corvette and I bought a used one on eBay. I can help with the mounting plate and rods if you decide to go that way. The 3915405 is under $200 new from Summit.
Great stuff going on there Jeff. I gotta ask........the black and white one I saw at Bob's didn't have rust that bad, did it? Of course, I only took a quick look, but it sure looked solid.
Thunderbird covers on the 428 are just breathtaking! that is going to be good. wow! never mind the metal Jeff, you have another artist there in doing the sheetmetal work. real cool ! absolutely love your project :004:
Quote from: lalessi1 on 2018-12-10 12:27
Jeff, I am using a Competition Plus on mine. The Toploader requires a 90 degree bend in the 1st/2nd actuator arm on the shifter. Hurst has 2 models (that I know of) that offer this. One 3913180 has an integral handle, the other 3915405 has a bolt on handle. I tried both, the 3180 requires a bigger hole and it does work with a small boot, the other 5405 requires a smaller hole and allows you to posistion the shifter knob where you want it. The 5405 is for a 63 Corvette and I bought a used one on eBay. I can help with the mounting plate and rods if you decide to go that way. The 3915405 is under $200 new from Summit.
Lynn,.Thats awesome info. thank you..I will be in touch for more info when I get to the installation.thank you!
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2018-12-10 16:47
Great stuff going on there Jeff. I gotta ask........the black and white one I saw at Bob's didn't have rust that bad, did it? Of course, I only took a quick look, but it sure looked solid.
Thanks Rich.... no. the Texas car from Bob's has not been touched.. and has zero issues in the dept. that this car has.... The Texas 57 is a super solid car and will take very little to tackle.
Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2018-12-10 17:31
Thunderbird covers on the 428 are just breathtaking! that is going to be good. wow! never mind the metal Jeff, you have another artist there in doing the sheetmetal work. real cool ! absolutely love your project :004:
HAHAHA..Thanks G..... I owe you a email!!
Got to get ugly before making it pretty..Save them 57 Fords.
Pass. rear pillar repair
(https://i.imgur.com/eWV7zzb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vxnMX4k.jpg)
Drivers side window/top dog leg repair....
(https://i.imgur.com/fulNuvO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ulinPqF.jpg)
looks all solid again ! Thank god he was able to save the dog leg skin with just patching.
Jeff. while at it, remember to check the rearmost hole that takes the fender screw. it is a sheetmetal screw and if the hole is enlarged, this would be the time to weld it up and redrill at a smaller size. have your body guy check with actual self tapping screw. It would be a pity to find out about a stripped hole just after final paint and assembly.
Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2019-01-01 12:15
looks all solid again ! Thank god he was able to save the dog leg skin with just patching.
Jeff. while at it, remember to check the rearmost hole that takes the fender screw. it is a sheetmetal screw and if the hole is enlarged, this would be the time to weld it up and redrill at a smaller size. have your body guy check with actual self tapping screw. It would be a pity to find out about a stripped hole just after final paint and assembly.
Got that covered G!.... Thank You and very Observant!!!!
These are older pics.. doors are already in primer,ready for paint.. but the 300 custom holes are all welded up here... they are in good shape.... just a bit of 60 year grudge...
One thing i did notice.. maybe you all know the answer. the regulator holes on the pass. and drivers side are different.... I just noticed at at the time.
(https://i.imgur.com/Cd66RTD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BGcezoB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BHRmnNa.jpg)
Older pics. after getting the doors and deck lid chemically stripped...... I believe it's well worth it and pretty inexpensive.....I asked about an entire car bodying they quoted about 2500 cdn.
I thought that was a good deal(no.I am not doing it)....but for a big project..... it would be cheaper in the long run.
anyhow..back to the grind.
(https://i.imgur.com/biIL5vb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5awGKes.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GfL9iYZ.jpg)
deck lid
(https://i.imgur.com/CqUcc3L.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0zx1eIr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bVxYLKk.jpg)
I just read the post from Jan 7 about the regulator holes being different, that's interesting. When I did my locks I worked on one door at a time and I never noticed or thought about it.
Wow, those look great, Jeff. They look like they also have a zinc phosphate coating to keep them from rust flashing, which is great, BUT, and this is a big but, make sure when it's time for epoxy primer that the metal is jitterbugged down to shiney metal, or you will have major adhesion problems, That's including the undersides, and anything that will get the epoxy primer. That said, imho, that's the only way to fly because you really need that zink stuff in all the cracks and crevasses and pores.
Looking so good and clean ! Gives us an image of what those looked like in 1957, before paint and 60 yrs of decay.
Filling the trim holes came out nice - no way to hide anything in bare metal! Are you sure that the 57 isn't heading in the same show rod direction as your Deuce coupe ? :002:
btw. it seems as if your body shop friend is into real 'garage' music. there's nothing that literally beats having a good old drum set around your working area :003:
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2019-02-05 19:05
Wow, those look great, Jeff. They look like they also have a zinc phosphate coating to keep them from rust flashing, which is great, BUT, and this is a big but, make sure when it's time for epoxy primer that the metal is jitterbugged down to shiney metal, or you will have major adhesion problems, That's including the undersides, and anything that will get the epoxy primer. That said, imho, that's the only way to fly because you really need that zink stuff in all the cracks and crevasses and pores.
Yes Rich... I had long conversations with Tom(painter) on this prior to getting the metal stripped... he has taken that and treated everything down to bare metal and coated all with a epoxy primer..... sorry. got no pics.
Back years ago. when metal stripping became popular... sometimes the stripper was not properly neutralized,... and it would start to re-appear after paint.... leeching from the folds and small crevices.That was a major concern for me.
The cost was cheap. and in the last few years... the process has changed somewhat(around here anyhow....) not the same chemicals they used in previous years.
Both Tom the painter and the chemical stripper guy spoke to me about this.... but after 2 minutes,.... My eyes glazed over and they lost me. ha ha.
Anyhow,Tom the painter neutralized everything again in his shop a few days after i dropped the stuff off.
Tom had some small pin-hole work to take car of on the front lower corners of each door and very small pinholes to weld up on a small 2 inch section of the deck lid below the key hole.
The items are now epoxy primer sitting in his backroom.
I tend to sit and listen to Tom,instead of telling him how to prep and paint.... hahaha. that would not go over well.
Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2019-02-06 04:20
Looking so good and clean ! Gives us an image of what those looked like in 1957, before paint and 60 yrs of decay.
Filling the trim holes came out nice - no way to hide anything in bare metal! Are you sure that the 57 isn't heading in the same show rod direction as your Deuce coupe ? :002:
G,... Your absolutely right!.... After finding some unexpected and unpleasant surprises on the car....I was convinced by Tom the Painter to strip the doors and Deck lid this way..... also... since Tom is a fanatic in his ongoing war against corrosion.... his cost would have been far greater to clean each piece down to BM than just the way of the stripper.As I mentioned to Rich previously..... I was not convinced.... but I relented and I now Believe.
This is the question with old cars.....(or old anything).... where do you stop?.... Gloss it all over with Bondo?.... Fix and replace metal panels but leave other areas un-attended?.... It just keeps migrating and never stops.... I do love shop time.. but I enjoy wheel time much more.... and ... that for me is the end goal.hahahah.
So.. no. the 57 will never go the way of my early Fords..I mentally can't handle that...burned out from all those years of complete disassembly and re-assembly.... over and over and over..... Some very much enjoy the process...I have gone past that point....Can't say i will never do it again..but not on this car.Hopefully(fingers crossed)..I should be driving this summer.... but life is CRAZY busy.
I keep speaking to Tom the painter about Paint.....I want a level of a production car from 57.. no more,no less..... I just want a nice old car.
At this point in time... we are settling the 428 and trans into the car... I will get pics when possible....
Funny you mentioned about the drum kit in Toms shop... my Brother in law(Jeff) is a drummer too... they both proceeded to sit down and Jam!
As life wasn't busy enough..I have been working on my studio above the garage as well..... building palette walls at each end and mocking up barrel lighting....
In-between car time/work time and all important Family time.
(https://i.imgur.com/7b8T9j5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dXHTNPT.jpg)
Sounds like everything is in very capable hands.......just as I would expect from a Norwell associate!! I posted those comments more for others seeing the pics, as the "grey" coating showed up very well in those pics, if you know what to look for. It's not at all like shiney metal.
Doors,deck lid,hood and fenders are all in Bodyshop Hell still. but I am picking up a few items to test fit soon..... Engine and trans are ready for install. but.. that may be a few weeks away with everyones schedule that is involved.... Mine included....
I imagine when the final steps get close.. it will go pretty fast(yea... famous last words)
Work has been heavy and steady... but building my studio above the Garage has been priority 1.
Should be finally completed within the next 2-3 weeks....
I knew this whole move-resettle business was going to take pretty much a year.. lots of work,.. but we love it.
carry on.
(https://i.imgur.com/G2vtpbX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qfatzCf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EnFpI2g.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/K0tQ48d.jpg)
Wow, just wow........engine and office!
WOW! What a nice studio and shop. Those solid mounted overhead lights would be illegal in Calif. Wondering about the block off plate for the road draft tube on the back of the manifold, I don't see any other provision for breathing?
Thanks guys.
I am picking up a PCV breather today to install into the block off plate Jim.
Curious..why.. would solid mounted overhead lights be illegal?
OK PCV, sorry things like that just catch my eye.
I did something similar to yours and it wouldn't past inspection, the wiring has to be in flexible conduit. I'm sure it's just an earthquake thing here for that regulation.
when I grow up , I want to become an artist, that's for sure ! :003:
Very Impressive sir. Job well done. The lights are really slick.
All I can say is WOW!!! :icon_salut:
thanks Guys!
Parts in primer....
(https://i.imgur.com/nbtB2Dd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YV2SXYE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0sEIO3X.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6oS5VAV.jpg)
Doors .....
(https://i.imgur.com/ndb6STj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fjHf05j.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/O7ViE4w.jpg)
Fenders.....
(https://i.imgur.com/837uWEc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Dpx0BuN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4y46WN7.jpg)
The plan now is to bring these and put them on the car.....Tom the painter wants to gently set the sheet metal up with the engine/transmission in the car... More later.
Looks Awesome! I need more! :003:
More update to follow Joe!
beautiful ! it is so sweet to see this level of prep work, when the car is going to be a keeper.
Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2019-04-14 15:25
beautiful ! it is so sweet to see this level of prep work, when the car is going to be a keeper.
I'm very excited Gunther!
A positive day. More to come.....
(https://i.imgur.com/XG7a4m7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/waqgYYY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KBlMsRu.jpg)
Looking good :001: I like the cast iron headers, 406 or 427?
Not sure Jim..... could be early T-Bird 390-maybe 406.......
My pal Rob made some simple and cool linkage.....My plan is try to use nothing but Ford parts on this car.....0 aftermarket.(trying)
(https://i.imgur.com/bpIdbTF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tvJLtke.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eeth7ic.jpg)
what year are the valve covers. I've got the same setup I'm putting together. I have the three deuce also. I like my finned covers but there setup for a cap and pcv. hope I can get mine looking half as good as yours.
62galxe,
As far as I know(and someone here will know) I believe the block letters V/C are 1960-1963 352 issue?..... not quite certain..... everyone I know and see runs a "Thunderbird Script".. which are very cool....but my car is not a Thunderbird.
I also had some very rare FE Cal Custom 7 finned aluminum covers...which dressed up the engine nice with a 3x2 Air Cleaner.....but ... A young Ford Designer in 61 or 62 working on a mule car would not have access to those.... trying to stay ALL Ford...... if possible.
Valve covers are typical 58-64 or 65, design changed after that.
More curiosity, I see the oil fill pipe in the manifold is removed and plugged and with no holes in the early valve covers how are you going to add oil?
Jim..I will be using a oil fill tube from another FE.
Quote from: Jeff Norwell on 2019-04-29 08:35
Jim..I will be using a oil fill tube from another FE.
Sorry Jeff, I don't mean to drive you crazy with questions :002: Just my mechanical mind notices these things..
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2019-04-29 08:57
Sorry Jeff, I don't mean to drive you crazy with questions :002: Just my mechanical mind notices these things..
Heck No!.. That's why I'm Here Jim.... gosh.. Most of you guys have been there,done that.... and I Look to you guys for guidance..I am in no way any kind of expert in ANY of this junk.... I am a very visual guy and I just want an all Ford off the shelf look and feel.Good or bad I guess.
The next step is cutting up the Z-bar to fit,Brake lines are in,fuel lines are being twisted and put on.The dash and insulation are the next to be applied as well and wire the car.The original wiring was horrible... just very old..but I have kept it to use(if possible) the male and female ends.....I am running a dealer Heater... where I live..I need it.
I did break down and buy a dual master...... safety first.... much pressure from my pal Rob,Tom the Painter and my bro in law Jeff.The pedal set up is in and works well(thanks to Fordaholich here on the board)
I have got pressure to run discs up front.. and I know it's much better stopping power... but on this car.... no..I'm sticking with drums.
Jeff. your 'OG Ford only' attitude will also help avoiding cheaply made aftermarket parts, that will rust and fail before you can take the car out on the first shake down ride ! :003:
engine is looking great !
Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2019-04-29 09:50
Jeff. your 'OG Ford only' attitude will also help avoiding cheaply made aftermarket parts, that will rust and fail before you can take the car out on the first shake down ride ! :003:
engine is looking great !
hahahaha... Thats Funny G!
Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2019-04-29 09:50
Jeff. your 'OG Ford only' attitude will also help avoiding cheaply made aftermarket parts, that will rust and fail before you can take the car out on the first shake down ride ! :003:
engine is looking great !
I agree and I'm glad you are using as much Ford as possible. G forgot to mention first you have to hammer to fit, weld shut and paint to match before the after market stuff fails. I went through this when my factory FE single four barrel manifold burned through the exhaust crossover ( DAMN ETHANOL ) :005: Replaced it with an Edlebrock that the solid lifter push rods would rub on the holes in the intake, had to remove it and open up the holes..
An after thought. I hope who ever installed the intake manifold blocked off the exhaust cross over ports. These early aluminum manifolds were very thin in that area and burn through easily.
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2019-04-29 10:32
An after thought. I hope who ever installed the intake manifold blocked off the exhaust cross over ports. These early aluminum manifolds were very thin in that area and burn through easily.
A gentleman named Don Palmer built the engine..... and around here , he is the FE go to guy..... I will ask and see..... He talks about all the crappy fuel around so........
All I know..I ain't taking it apart at this time! hahaha
All the flooding in the mid west didn't kill enough corn for my satisfaction :003:
I've considered a draft breather tube as an oil fill option.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-FE-427-428-Cobra-Shelby-Intake-Breather/333077642083?hash=item4d8cf97b63:g:dDAAAOSwWTZcXhgt&vxp=mtr
Moving along.. plumbing the engine dept., Alternator Brackets being fabricated,but brake lines and fuel lines all in.... Since Ford in 57 used staples on some of their rubber anti squeak areas... on the inner fenders, my pal Rob used early Ford firewall welting instead of cheap chinese rubber.Using the existing staple holes, he tricked up some safety wire.Keep it all Ford.
The doors are all aligned and now fitting proper.
(https://i.imgur.com/bpIq6Ha.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/s9eXMVo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bl5SWIt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/emcZJSn.jpg)
So.... the only thing not Ford on this car.. is the Alternator.... why? A GM 1 wire is so less complicated and easier than Fords.(Henry Ford, forgive me) I was gonna do the small alt. in a Generator case....but, its a lot of work for not that much importance..... and as lovely as Powergens are.. too much $$$$. Again my pal Rob came up with a slick solution.Using a bracket off of a Ford piece and some home made ingenuity .... he came up with a slick and down low hidden unit.A little black paint and its good.Easy access and low... perfect.Alternators are ugly......and best to keep the crazy Uncle in the basement.A few spacers and were off to the next phase.
(https://i.imgur.com/PsNro6X.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tWVMjoN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IZng7SE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vBJJTvk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OhdTUBy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vBJJTvk.jpg)
Things are progressing well. Great idea with the safety wire and tool for the welting. The alternator bracket looks OEM for the time period as well. The correct fuel filter, correct bolts, along with black dist cap and wires is a nice touch. Everything looks like Henry might have done it himself.
One thing I never noticed.. is that the Dist. cap needs to be changed out...I think Don P. used it to find TDC.... and possibly forgot to swap out a newer cap... there is a hole in the cap... (to find TDC as mentioned)...No problem.. just glad it was caught.The engine was on the dyno when I picked it up.
I love watching this car progress. When is it going to make it to the lonestar roundup?
I Would LOVE to make it for 2020.... thinking last night.I just may forgo the paint work in the near future ..I want to really shakedown this car mechanically before applying make up.Work/Family always play into fun travel time... and the drive in an old car 1500 miles is very fun for me.I also want to visit Jay in the Boston area very soon and want the 57 to be part of that trip.
Really going to try.
Jeff if the GM alternator bothers you take a look at Fords 3G. It is two wires, the big fat one to the battery and a small skinny one to the run terminal on the ignition switch. I will dig out the part number for it after I hit the shop. Basically a bolt in to replace the "one wire" which are prone to having a diode fail and slowly pull down the battery.
I did not know that Bill,... yes. I would very much like the part number...I have an excellent small shop up here that does all my Alt. and starter work... a Kiwi Gentleman..I would very much prefer to run all FORD.
I can use this info for the next 57 and possibly this one.
Thanks very much Bill
Jeff the alternator comes off an early 90s Taurus wagon. It has a serpentine belt pulley but a regular V belt will bolt up. This alternator will come in two sizes, 90 and 130 amp. The Taurus will have either depending on model. I chose the 130 amp. It is Advance Auto Parts SKU # 15030109. Go to their site, enter the SKU and you will see the pictures and specs.
There are several wire kits that make installing it simple. Basically with an aftermarket kit you will have two wires, the output and the exciter which is 12V switched. If you Google 3G conversion there are a butt load of forums with as many YouTube videos that have information.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/driveworks-alternator-remanufactured-130-amps-7771-11-6gav/15030109-P?krypto=ZfyfY2rv1vzTuw0ntngxf3flIeNAszpqqfqaJmUwOUQ7RxdcrVrR5vkfCw%2BYAC3azhkHfBLR0MUAe69y46cLGsiAjsRWcdDgU3B7e7%2FAXbDQLCYWpHQy%2FsQj%2BKtnXq%2BibPWwJT2oeug%2F1zKqOw%2BBNUzTzEKiOqiO8KOv30K9LGVErWRswfYAa%2BTKRV4Et2VSwgpdwCEHy9hCPFBXqn19k7qr4zzrekOG4K1jxIjcW9ZtFYCtNu5OFWLNhXyz40kW7m%2F59YelK2T3OqwSwSychJl%2FGMKgDA3ftuQhX8KqX6W0TKPBrSyhd5Ds6kwTQWJVEo6lJFsQnoKi%2BjLhXolTNg%3D%3D
I'm using the Power Master 140 amp version of the 3G. The pigtail is the same and available eBay and several other places. Pigtail also supports dash light. The PM comes with pigtail, serpentine pulley and v-belt pulley. I'm having a small issue with belt slipage at idle when the AC and fans kick on. A seven groove serpentine pulley is available. A double V groove pulley is suggested. Takes a lot of power to spin 130+ amp alternator. PICs of mine going in.
Very interesting!..Thanks to both of you Bill and Gary!
Summer was fun and not very much got done on the Dirty bird...... everyone has been extremely busy.... but we are back in the saddle again.
I went farther than i wanted to,.... but i will save as many 57 Fords i can get my hands on.EVERY bit of sheetmetal on this car has been fixed.
Saying that... All are very happy with the results so far.....
As she sits now.
(https://i.imgur.com/I2irAYe.jpg)
Again.... Tom the painter has prepped and begun to apply a base coat primer to parts... gravel splash pan is now painted.
The car is now being wired, and all interior parts are now painted the factory low lustre grey.The dash is in and the interior trim parts are in my shop waiting to be installed when the time comes into play.
(https://i.imgur.com/eNxu03J.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/50ySfUj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wR8pueB.jpg)
Tom has begun painting parts and did my 56 15 inch steelies in black.
That's all for now!
thanks!
(https://i.imgur.com/YlNWkEa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/y7kRwr8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Zn5Empt.jpg)
loving the Tbird hood scoop ! The chrome insert will look awesome on the black paint ! Tom does clean work !
Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2019-10-08 16:40
loving the Tbird hood scoop ! The chrome insert will look awesome on the black paint ! Tom does clean work !
I just love a 56-57 T-Bird hood scoop on a 57 hood.... simple and graceful..... like it was made for it.The soft peaks on each piece just really work hand in Hand G.
Thanks buddy!
Jeff
Pictures don't lie. It's just plain unbelievable how nice that your 57. Fords are progressing. You are spending
a lot of time on little details and it really shows I especially like how the sheetmetal work is looking.. Between all of this and your regular work, how do you ever find time to sleep?
Keep up the good work. Jay
Many Thanks Jay!..... Getting close to the paint booth soon
Sleep is overrated! hahaha
The struggle continues..... not a lot but. more odds n sods are metal finished and in a base protective primer to prevent any flashing... the Northeast is a always a wet blanket.
My painter and buddy top has finished some pieces..... the car is back home and fitting sheetmetal,painting underside stuff and what not......
Just carrying on when time permits.
(https://i.imgur.com/YILlLtC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Y4p2pf3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/14f1m4h.jpg)
Hood n such.....
(https://i.imgur.com/ZTPnNQ2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3bJduev.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mJKgXc8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HPpqIk2.jpg)
The car sitting as it is still.... The struggle is real.
(https://i.imgur.com/tW2oXEd.jpg)
Where did you get the t-bird hood scoop, I would think they are pretty hard to come by. Looks like it was meant to be there , anybody not familiar with 57 fords would probably think it came that way from the factory, very nice work in deed.
Quote from: 57chero on 2020-01-25 12:05
Where did you get the t-bird hood scoop, I would think they are pretty hard to come by. Looks like it was meant to be there , anybody not familiar with 57 fords would probably think it came that way from the factory, very nice work in deed.
Thank you.... a friend of mine in Indiana had just the scoop cut from an original..I bought it a few years back and really wanted to do this....
Jeff
Picture #268. Is that in your shop or the body guy's? I have to confess that I just can't keep things that orderly.
Your car is looking great. When it is all done' I hope that you can find the time to really drive it as often as humanly possible.
JA
That is my place Jay
Thank you....
Well.. Tom the Painter came over and we started aligning sheet metal... fitting the front assembly.... no bodywork as of yet.
Waiting for a package from Carpenter as I ordered all the rubber parts I needed for the car(door bumpers,trim stuff, etc,etc......
I shall begin wiring the car and getting the door assemblies straightened out.
The Paint and body will take time as the cost today is .... incredibly insane.I have no area to do that work or the equipment.No proper ventilation or paint booth.
But. with perseverance.... it will happen.
My other 57 will remain in the glory of its natural state(when I get to it.)
Well. sorry for the same old boring picture.... but that's where I am.
(https://i.imgur.com/s416A9q.jpg)
Jeff, just a FYI I used all of Carpenter's rubber also, but the doors were almost a foot short, that was a couple of years back, but I
have notice that other members have had the same problem from time to time. You might want to check yours asap so you will have time to send them back, they did take care of mine right away but it just screws your schedule up. Hopefully that stock has been straighten out. John V.
They told me a bunch of 4dr rubber got bagged in 2dr packages. Fixed me up no problem. I ordered my stuff in mid 2018. Found out there was a problem when it came time to glue them in place. Glad I test fitted before putting any glue on!
Thanks Guys..I will call them tomorrow(Monday) and see whats the skinny.
Ditto here on the short seals. Also ordered mine mid 2018. I somehow ended up with 3 seals....the one older one was about a foot longer than the newer ones! No biggie since I had an extra seal. I just cut a piece off the extra seal (the other short one) long enough to put the added seam on the underside of the door where the seal fits into the retainer nubbies. I don't remember having a problem reaching the seals the first time I did them.....must have installed them while the doors were off the car. What a messy pita trying to reach the hinge side. Have a can of 3m adhesive remover handy!
now something tells me I'm not looking forward in opening the 2dr door seal package....I am glad I never restored the car first place.... :003:
Jeff, your car is going to be a wild ride. Knowing that you are about to drive it a lot. imho, does this car need paint ?
those black primered fenders and parts look jsut great as they are. this is just my mind, why don't you just finish the rest of the body the same way and start driving it. it would be much cheaper and easier. who cares for paint ? :001: ( I know a lot do)
I always put it like that : Paint is just corrosion protective. like any good coat of zinc or nickel , it's about to wear anyways.... :003:
I've installed two sets of Steele gaskets for Customs with no issues...fit great. Must be DC did not make those.
Ditto on Steele seals and gaskets; used these on my car with no short-comings, fit great.
DC made them...they have the number and DC moulded onto the seal in the dogleg area where they also identify right and left. I'm curious how you guys attached them.......DC recommends the same 3M weatherstrip adhesive I'm assuming everybody uses, but they say to apply the adhesive only to the door, taping the seal in place for 24 hours. 3M says coat both door and seal, which is what I do. Instant grab. No issue with this new seal creating door shutting problems. After installing, it only takes a little more umph to close the door than without the seal. Really happy about that.
I did compare the new seal to the one I bought 12-15 years ago, and the old one is a little denser. Not sure if it's because of age, or if DC finally listened to us on complaining about doors having to be slammed to shut. Hopefully I'll get the pas. side (old seal) done in the next few days and get to check if the door needs slamming to close.
Thanks for all the info guys...Must say.I got a little worried about them door seals, but my box of goodies arrived yesterday and all is good!I check out both sides of the door Seals and like Rich mentioned.... there is a left and right side.
Hats off to DC...They were very kind,courteous and efficient in dealing with them.I will use them again after a good experience.
Question.. regarding door bumpers..... I have them... and on the top corner there is a small hole in the sheet metal to insert a door bumper.....BUT, since my rockers were replaced .... Not quite sure if or where the door bumper is placed in the inner lower corner....I assume there is only 2 per side(on the top and bottom) The reason I ask is I have brand new door plates and strikers and other small parts to install to get the correct door alignment.
Anyone got a quick pick of a door bumper area(bottom).. and if there are only 2?
Dumb question.. but I would like to be certain.
Gunther,.... I am seeing Tom the Painter tomorrow to help him with his A project..... I am going to put forward exactly what you have suggested.I Love Paint..... and I love a Natural old Paint wear.. but I feel its best to get all running,... mechanically,electrically and work any bugs out before going to the effort ..and cost of final paint.
I am going to Paint..... Just like Henry wanted.............Black.
The hood scoop looks great, like it was made for the car. I guess it will be functional to whatever air cleaner setup your going to use ?
Very Functional Randy.. Cutting up a big 59 Factory air cleaner.... trying a ram air thing.... Got a pattern off a try-power set up. Pics later.
I've used 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive for 50 years. It is very easy to make a mess. I typically use it as per 3M directions. The original was only available in yellow. In very critical applications, I have applied to one surface, let it tack and then touch the weatherstrip to the final location, pull away, touch and pull away until it starts to grab...final adjustment and tape. Great stuff. In a pinch, I've used it to hold engine gaskets in place.
I can take a pic of my bottom bumper, but like yours, new rockers, so not necessarily in the correct location exactly if someone were to check it with calipers. Just make sure where you put it is not going to hit the door seal.
Just my 2 cents, and it's your $ and car, but I always look at a primer car like it's unfinished, or the body work wasn't good enough for shiney finish paint. I've been driving mine for 3 years since last paint, and not a whole lot of nicks and scratches. So, if I were you I'd go for a nice, but not show quality paint and not worry about it.
You mentioned aligning the striker plate.........have fun, lol. Keep in mind there is a roller behind the starwheel on the latch. That roller is suppose to ride up on the small countersunk plate that holds the 2 tooth catch plate. It should ride up about 1/16" or so lifting the door when you close it.
Make sure everything is adjusted so it catches both teeth. When correct, you should be able to close the door lightly and have it catch on the first tooth, holding the door from flying open even though not closed tight. Lifting the door 1/16 keeps weight on the door latch to striker plate and reduces rattling and the door bouncing up and down.
Before you assemble the striker plate onto the jamb, make sure the cage nuts encapsulated in the jamb are free and floating because that's where your adjustment is. No adjustment in the door latch, it's all in the striker.
You sure you want to put the striker/latch/bumpers on before you decide on paint???
Rich, Jeff at some point mentioned a very high C$ figure for a full repaint. I respect your opinion about primered cars not being finished, but honestly, many thsds of $ can be well spent in driving an FE equipped 57 around for years. rather than waiting for years until one can afford a halfway decent paintjob these days.
personally I am a strong believer in doing looooong shakedown runs of a freshly built car before ever thinking about paint.
IF you had an og survivor car, that you disassembled for paint. it would be great to paint the door jambs before assembling the striker plates to the car. With a car like Jeffs, that needed quite some work done. I would highly suggest to give it a thorough, long, good shakedown before going into quality paint coating. there WILL be many discrepancies in alignment and fitment in such a huge project.
imho, Jeffs thoughts of getting the 300 on the road first, are spot on. what do you think, do we have to agree , to disagree ? :001:
Jeff this is of course, 4 dr wgn. maybe it can give you a hint of where the rubber has to go.
(https://up.picr.de/37824082ij.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/37824083tf.jpg)
this is my Del Rio. I believe 2dr wgn doors are the same as Custom/300 sdn.
(https://up.picr.de/37824089np.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/37824090le.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/37824091iy.jpg)
We can agree to agree, DJ..........as long as there is paint somewhere down the road. Nothing wrong with shakedown miles, and for sure making everything fits the way you want. Only thing I'm not to sure about is how many things you're gonna run into on shakedown miles that are going to affect the paint, unless it's necessitating the front end sheetmetal removal.
I looked at my bottom bumper location, and it's exactly where the hole is above that little recessed area in the Del Rio pic
interesting thought Rich. what was going to move in a shakedown run. I can imagine that like you say, a new frontend rubber will let the fenders settle and also change door gaps. I believe with the amount of metalwork that Jeffs car got, it would need an initial door alignment like in the factory, where they would bounce back and forth with knees, heels, rubber mallets, wooden blocks and whatnot. talking about a black paint job, on a factory 57, ..... not the best combination maybe. I never saw a brandnew black 57 in the flesh unfortunatley, but I can just picture, that today a pro paint shop would even put more efforts than they did on an average car back in 1957. I am not sure about that though. I believe we all have seen og paint survivor cars at one point and it's sometimes amazing how nice these were/are. I guess we all have seen og paint orange peel, runs and what not as well. :003:
As we all know aligning doors in a 57 can be difficult. to say the least. many options to move things around, heavy doors, especially with a 2 door. that nice life guard safety latches. which put a lot of options on our to do list, and those aftermarket door seals we can never be sure of about foam density and fit.
all of that make sit difficult for door alignment, even more so with a high gloss black car.
it is great that your new door seals turned out nicely and not being an issue. I am sweating to replace the door seals on the 4dr wgn.
Jeff.....one more door seal suggestion. Do not use adhesive in the area of the clip that holds the door lock in place. Should you ever need to get the door lock out, you don't want to destroy the seal trying to get to it. On mine I stop applying the adhesive about an inch above and an inch below the clip. The seal will still stay tight in that area. Where DC ends the top portion of the seal is just above the clip, so On the new seal I just installed, I cut off a few inches of the top end of the seal to insure I had enough seal to glue the "bottom end" adequately above the clip without getting adhesive in the area mentioned. If that doesn't make sense, I think it will when you start fitting the seal.
I'm not sure why they didn't seam the seal at the bottom where the seam wouldn't be seen. Parlez vous Francais?
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2020-02-08 17:48
Jeff.....one more door seal suggestion. Do not use adhesive in the area of the clip that holds the door lock in place. ...
Yeah. This door seal was glued on good. At first I was
'Where the hell is that clip?'. ???
I did
not re-glue that door seal. :P
Great suggestions guys and thanks!
Gunther,.. tha solves my issue ..... More in the future guys.. work is very heavy at the moment
Hey Guys..... been a while since I have done any updates... With the world upside down... it's been a struggle... work completely died in mid March(picking up now....) So as like everyone else... you need to adjust and stay calm.. new adjustments in life.Since I work alone(for the last 30 years...It really wasn't an issue.. but socially.. it's been a strange one.
Anyhow.. Been working on the 57.. slowly plugging away.
The rear spare tire well was a mess(like many)... there must have been 1 inch in bondo and a mesh material holding it together.... and as I was under the car(which seemed to be an eternity) I needed to replace it.I found that on a 57 Meteor( that i grabbed parts from) it's spare tire well was perfect!!!
This in its self was a miracle!
So I cut it out, removed the excess Flange,drilled out the spot weld and cleaned it up.
I then attacked the one on my car.. it was truly ugly.... but it came out and I then cleaned its flange area.....
The plan was to bond it in... so thats what I did.
The old exhaust was still in place so I cut all that out as well.... made it much easier to scrap,grind and attack the underside.This is the WORST job ever.
My other 57 is not even close to the mess that was under this 57.... so much undercoating... in some places 2 inches think.I would curse the person who applied it in the past... but in hindsight.... it save the car in critical areas..... still.. a nightmare to remove.
The donor unit.
(https://i.imgur.com/s5jEI6e.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jXrNAgc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BQyjpJg.jpg)
The old one coming out in pieces..... and then cleaning, straightening the flange and mating ares...
(https://i.imgur.com/EOh4aK4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ReWp3ms.jpg)
Test fit......
(https://i.imgur.com/KSp21nM.jpg)
Bonded in and fitted tight..(now dry and I will clean a bit more and use some seam sealer.)
(https://i.imgur.com/K109uHF.jpg)
The underside is now done. all in a semi gloss black(satin)..... As I was under I removed all the Factory fuel and brake lines.... kept them as templates and made the lines.... installing those now.
I really did not feel good about using 60 year old lines..... fresh and new is better... used that Ni-copp stuff.. for the brake lines.. really like it....
(https://i.imgur.com/aqDNLM1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VdxwZoT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/F65gthv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zoWka05.jpg)
I was lucky, mine was similar to the one you salvaged from the Mercury. Great job, Jeff. However, my inner splash panels you repainted were another story, I had to hand fab new ones via the cut, bend up, and weld method. Strange how the same cars can be 180* different in where they rusted out.
I think once you use that NiCopp line, you don't want to go back to anything else unless it's premade stainless. (or you need stainless for a show car)
Moving to the front sheetmetal ... and while I had the glue out.... bonded the brows.... they will never come off.The posts were in very bad shape and trying to repair pot metal is just a problem.I have several sets.... but these were the best ones.....
(https://i.imgur.com/btaVof8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PQiDfQz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6tHn2Zi.jpg)
90 minutes set up and 12 hour cure.....
(https://i.imgur.com/8JH0VXO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/C0CDeX3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cctdAL1.jpg)
Put in the dash.. all painted and the lower dealer heater..... yes.I know... best to wire the car with the dash out... but It was a tough job and very very delicate for me to instal.... I will just leave it and struggle... hahahah
(https://i.imgur.com/mBwRZ5u.jpg?1)
So..... whats next... finish the fuel lines, install the gas tank, wire the car, build my drive shaft and exhaust.
If this were a TV show.. it would be done next week ...
Thanks
See ya guys!
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2020-06-20 10:02
I was lucky, mine was similar to the one you salvaged from the Mercury. Great job, Jeff. However, my inner splash panels you repainted were another story, I had to hand fab new ones via the cut, bend up, and weld method. Strange how the same cars can be 180* different in where they rusted out.
I think once you use that NiCopp line, you don't want to go back to anything else unless it's premade stainless. (or you need stainless for a show car)
I agree Rich!!!!!..... so strange how some of these cars rotted out and the same model from a different climate survived.I have a local friend with a super clean Canadian built 58 custom(built in Oakville ontario) that is flawless.... all original and so clean... bought the car from a ,local guy for 7 grand.... it must have been stored since 59 hahaha
Yes... those Ni-copp lines are very nice to work with.... very simple and easy!...
Most guys around here think I'm crazy,... I have enough parts in triplets,... doors,dashes,deck lids etc etc.I just want to have all in hand in case i need something in the future and enough to build this car and the Texas car from Larry Grillet in Childress.I counted 7 spare hoods the other day(yes,I do have a problem)
But after all my cars are done..i will sell off the parts to those who are in need..... But the cars will have to be finished first.Many on this site have helped me immensely.
Btw way... I have my sealed glass Quarter window kit from John Gambol and i have made my template from Fordaholic(Gary)....... just waiting until i can get to a glass shop to get the glass cut. Hotroddonnie(remember him!?!?!) Gave me a full glass set for a custom.....
I wonder hot Donnie is doing....I think he lives in the Maritimes now.
Excellent examples of analism...er...ah CRAFTSMANSHIP Jeff! Looks very nice all around! Nice sharing too! Helpful for things I will need to do to mine.
Awesome work Jeff; just did the same thing to my eyebrows as the posts were deteriorated also. It looks beautiful!
JEFF ! Terrific efforts made !!! I see you made good use of your very special day off ! clean work all around. now that is what our passion is about. not counting hundreds of hours of scraping and sanding. But putting things together afterwards. very rewarding! Well done, Sir ! :004:
Hugh,Joe and Gunther... thanks guys!.. Push forward.
All delete plates or the gamut of time, sound and heat?
Quote from: rmk57 on 2020-06-20 20:23
All delete plates or the gamut of time, sound and heat?
Not understand what your asking?
Heater, radio, clock or are you going to block them all off?
Ahh. sorry Randy..... Yes, but the heater is a dealer unit with a small know thru the plate.You can see the heater in the bottom right a little bit of the dash pic.
Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2020-02-07 18:01
Rich, Jeff at some point mentioned a very high C$ figure for a full repaint. I respect your opinion about primered cars not being finished, but honestly, many thsds of $ can be well spent in driving an FE equipped 57 around for years. rather than waiting for years until one can afford a halfway decent paintjob these days.
personally I am a strong believer in doing looooong shakedown runs of a freshly built car before ever thinking about paint.
IF you had an og survivor car, that you disassembled for paint. it would be great to paint the door jambs before assembling the striker plates to the car. With a car like Jeffs, that needed quite some work done. I would highly suggest to give it a thorough, long, good shakedown before going into quality paint coating. there WILL be many discrepancies in alignment and fitment in such a huge project.
imho, Jeffs thoughts of getting the 300 on the road first, are spot on. what do you think, do we have to agree , to disagree ? :001:
Rich...I tried to double quote to include you.but it did not work.
The reason of doing a shakedown in my mind.. is in the past... On both of my earlier Fords.. after Paint,After making all pretty..... there is ALWAYS some kind of adjustment...actually.. Disasters......
I have done the high end car in the past.. and I simply don't have the interest anymore.... If I had the mental strength .. I would love a super stocker OEM car.... that in itself is the most expensive type of car to build.... and when done.. your very cautious of driving it.
To be honest, I should have not touched this car and worked on the super clean Texas B-W 57. It's much better foundation.... but..I was half way to church... so I kept on trucking.
I must say as well... I never had more fun when it was driving.... I took it everywhere.... but the underlying issues where starting to rear and I needed to fix or let them go past repair.
I also can say I have enjoyed working on this car far better than any car in the past...
As far as paint. it will happen... but I really want to shake this down.. and issues will arise before paint.57's have a big amount of real estate for a body-man.. that.... is where the money is... and that's the next big step..... The paint of course is going Black..... good lord do I like punishment.It HAS to be straight.I have chosen a Ford Commercial Fleet Paint.... 2x as strong and very tough.It will hold up excellent against the hard road.The only downfall with it is does not have the same amount UV protection of a reg pass. car paint.
But... I never leave my cars outside anyhow.... This car is going to be a driver..100%.I hang with about 4 really good pals and i have watched them build their rides and do the exact same process... they have fun with the cars before getting them shiny.. and by the time the paint goes on.. all or most of any issue(technical or whatever) has been addressed
They have lost that caution of driving a freshly painted car.. because of all the road time and the learning the vehicles quirks.
Anyhow... not sure if that makes sense.. but.... that's how Im gonna roll.
My plan is to have this car done for next year(or as much as possible) and drive to the Fathers day roadster show in L.A.I love road trips.I need to get to Boston in this and see Jay, and some good friends there....
Ya gotta drive this things.....
I can not agree more with the idea of shakedown. I have done the other way where you start with full resto just to find you are cutting and modifying nicely painted parts later to to adjust for miscalculations (like bad tire rub!).
Doing a shakedown also gives you some early reward. Especially if you have a decent body on the car. You get to enjoy it before it gets all torn down for a long time.
Ahh yes.. I have fuel leaks(destroying Paint on the frame).. brake lines leak(destroying Paint on Parts).... and thats the small stuff....
And yes.. my first big Road trip will take me to Austin,Wellington and Lubbock! hahahahah
Jeff, in your words of road trip plans I can literally feel the joy of driving the wheels off this thing!!! Terrific attitude and way to go imho.
Who knows what next year brings. maybe meet you in one of those places. My friend Baumi and me have been thinking about another US/Can trip. Who knows if that will be possible anywhere soon ?! :005:
Doing all the small stuff.. made a big list and crossing things off... still trying to find where i put stuff in them darn safe places.
Anxiously waiting for shifter parts..
.....fitting a NOS grill, finishes all the insulation,finished the brakes and fuel system... the list never ends.(damn,, Ford love Seam Sealer!!!!!!!)
(https://i.imgur.com/Y956dk1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ntpeBK6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9ye9wyw.jpg)
Moving onto the Equalizer Bar....
I have a complete 1959 EQ Bar setup.... but the actual EQ bar was crooked when installed into the 57(See pic).... this was due because of the FE sitting forward too much or Motor Mounts not being actual Ford parts(repro mounts from Carpenter)Well in the 60's and 70's it was easy to get the right parts.... but Ford don't carry that stuff any more or either does my local parts house).Asking Lynn,he showed me his solution.(There is a thread on this board explaining, Lynn was a Great Help!)On the Pivot ball bracket(Engine side).... the pivot had to be pushed back about 3/4 of an inch... new hole drilled,pressed in and welded on the backside.
Assembled everything... all perfect... full clutch pedal travel.. and I was a happy Camper.
Again... this is not Rocket science or some mystical voodoo..... and most more experience guys would already know this,.... but for those who plan to use OEM stuff.. ya gotta do some backyard shade tree wizardry hahahah
The first pic is mine.... The others are just ref. from Lynn to show me how to get it done.... just a Guide how I made it work for myself.
On the first pic I made a diagram showing how my EQ needed to pull back and straighten out to a 90 degree between the frame and engine.
(https://i.imgur.com/Nsneav7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ObeRMSW.jpg)
The re-location of pushing the pivot ball bracket worked out perfectly and the bar is at a 90 degree.. all action from the peddle works well and no bind at all.
Moving down to the linkage from the Z-Bar to the clutch fork... I should have had a clutch fork with a simple dimple pressed in.. but mine was a dimple with a hole(no idea what year,make or model)I was NOT pulling the tranny, to change that out.
The Z-bar is a complete 1959 Ford model,..... So I set a tap in motion, fine thread, and since space is at a premium.... made 4 jam nuts and did a trial run assembling.
I was concerned that just 2 nuts would not simple hold the desired Clutch adjustment.(I really overthink stuff)
I still need to attach shim washers and button the whole system up.. but all seems good.I have good clutch travel,no binds,clutch release at the halfway pedal point....
I will be searching for a good muffler/exhaust shop ..... Did I mention space is at a premium?.... but a good shop can do the job....
Not getting carried away with "Stainless exhaust" either.... this baby is a road brawler.....I need to run a tap over the exhaust studs and clean them up too.
got my inspection plate in too,.. lots of local guys told me I did not need it... yea... I don't like rocks in my pressure plate.
Again. all simple basic stuff.... but we continue to push forward.
(https://i.imgur.com/u6kqpZP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Dn3aaeJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LasKmzM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MkwW5kd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PO7ds2R.jpg)
Needed a clutch fork retraction spring.... because its an oddball setup.. and my auto parts sources looked at me with 3 heads....
We live rural.. so I headed to a tractor and antique farm supply house.... Had what I needed and then some... cost me $3.95 for a part Carpenter wanted 20-40 bucks for plus shipping....
Its the little things that eat so much time..... anyhow.. Clutch pedal to Transmission works very very well....
(https://i.imgur.com/rvqneUv.jpg)
Starting to wire(STILL WAITING ON SHIFTER PARTS!) hahahaha
Opened up the kit and stared to separated the looms in the direction they will go(rear,Dash,Front,etc,etc)Should be very simple..... I am not using a bunch of accessories......
Deciding on where to place the fuse panel.... I am surprised how little room with all the vent/heater duct work that space is a premium.
Needed to get the car on the ground and put on the new rubber and 15's.... happy with the oh so important stance.
(https://i.imgur.com/4a5H8al.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3McDDrK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aUtnesv.jpg)
BTW, on the wiring thing..... There is a small glass fuse that is placed at the rear of the light switch.... anybody know what size fuse?10? 15?.... can't seem to find that info.....
Looking REAL good Jeff! I think the fuse is maybe a 4 amp? The wire in those is very small. I will look.
Thanks Lynn!
Glass fuse on the back of the light switch is for the dome light. Should be low amp as Lynn mentioned
Lynn,Jim,..I think I found it. a 7.5 glass unit... I needed a mag. glass to see it on the manual.... Thanks guys!
Not sure if 57 is different, but on my 59 there is 2 short glass fuses clipped to the back of the headlight switch. Top one for dome light, lower for turn signals. In my 59 shop manual, both are AG5 fuses, which seems to be obsolete, my car had a SF6, wrapped in foil from a cigarette package, funny I ordered 2 new fuses Saturday, have to pick them up this afternoon, weird timing! Jeff, what exhaust manifolds are you using , 406 Shortys? Did they just bolt on? Years ago, I tried the 63-4 427 long exhaust manifolds on my 57 Sedan Delivery, no go, not enough room. On my 59, I used a 58 Z bar and block pivot from a 352, didn`t have to move anything to make it line up OK, although I did need to do a couple of minor changes to clear the FPA headers. The clutch fork I used has just a dimple, was the fork that came with the bellhousing (1962 Ford car). As for paint vs primer or "patina", as cheap as I am, I just don`t see a car as "finished" without decent paint and chrome bumpers. When I was working at the dealership, I just shook my head at guys that would buy a brand new $60,000 truck, then pay another 4 grand to have it wrapped in flat black, so it looked like primer. Maybe just me, but as someone who struggled to come up with money for decent, (not big $$$ show car) paint jobs, and having bumpers rechromed, I just don`t understand the whole "beater" look. My 59s far from a show car, but I just feel better having it in decent paint. I have over 500 "shakedown" miles on it so far,since I put it on the road for the first time in 18 years, and other than a few minor electrical tweaks, it has been pretty reliable and uneventful, other than 1 bent pushrod in the 428. Nows its just working on finishing minor details , before hopefully moving back East in October. The hard part is having the discipline to work on it, rather than be out driving it!
Haha..I have NO discipline.
Looks great Jeff. Thanks for the great photos and taking the time to share it with us.
The car's coming along great Jeff!
Looking good Jeff! :002:
Thanks guys.
Well... 1 part of the shifter parts arrived yesterday... that only took a month and a half to get. hahaha
AGAIN,...B I G Thanks to Lynn.... he directed and searched out the part on eBay I needed to work with the Hurst unit.Can't thank you enough Lynn.
(https://i.imgur.com/iZipr62.jpg)
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2020-08-31 14:43
Haha..I have NO discipline.
Looks great Jeff. Thanks for the great photos and taking the time to share it with us.
Not a problem Rich...... I hope it may help out someone in the future who may be doing something similar..... This board has helped me greatly on all and everything 57.We truly have top shelf members here.
Yes,I have NO discipline either. ha ha
Quote from: 59meteor on 2020-08-31 13:12
Not sure if 57 is different, but on my 59 there is 2 short glass fuses clipped to the back of the headlight switch. Top one for dome light, lower for turn signals. In my 59 shop manual, both are AG5 fuses, which seems to be obsolete, my car had a SF6, wrapped in foil from a cigarette package, funny I ordered 2 new fuses Saturday, have to pick them up this afternoon, weird timing! Jeff, what exhaust manifolds are you using , 406 Shortys? Did they just bolt on? Years ago, I tried the 63-4 427 long exhaust manifolds on my 57 Sedan Delivery, no go, not enough room. On my 59, I used a 58 Z bar and block pivot from a 352, didn`t have to move anything to make it line up OK, although I did need to do a couple of minor changes to clear the FPA headers. The clutch fork I used has just a dimple, was the fork that came with the bellhousing (1962 Ford car). As for paint vs primer or "patina", as cheap as I am, I just don`t see a car as "finished" without decent paint and chrome bumpers. When I was working at the dealership, I just shook my head at guys that would buy a brand new $60,000 truck, then pay another 4 grand to have it wrapped in flat black, so it looked like primer. Maybe just me, but as someone who struggled to come up with money for decent, (not big $$$ show car) paint jobs, and having bumpers rechromed, I just don`t understand the whole "beater" look. My 59s far from a show car, but I just feel better having it in decent paint. I have over 500 "shakedown" miles on it so far,since I put it on the road for the first time in 18 years, and other than a few minor electrical tweaks, it has been pretty reliable and uneventful, other than 1 bent pushrod in the 428. Nows its just working on finishing minor details , before hopefully moving back East in October. The hard part is having the discipline to work on it, rather than be out driving it!
Thanks Rory.
The manifolds are indeed 406 shortys.... we had to massage the right engine mount a tiny bit, and a bit of massage around the steering box,frame area.About 30 minutes in total.
This car will be painted.I just want to work all bugs out before applying any paint.... Paint and bodywork is so so expensive... Like you, i want a shakedown.If my car can get close to your 59 Meteors finish..I will be very happy.IMHO you have attended a perfect example of what roamed the streets in 1961-66.... that is my end goal.As for interior on this car....I simply can't afford a SMS interior.... to pay for it and wait a year or more.... My Interior guy has found material very close and thats the plan.... (whenever that will happen)
You are moving east?.... out of province?
Jeff, I hear you on the SMS interior prices, I did buy the headliner and windlace for my 59 from SMS, not installed yet, but sure looks nice. SMS sent me material swatches, that match my old seats perfectly, but they only sell the material by the yard, and the seat fabrics alone would be $1100. US, then you have to have somebody turn the raw material into seat covers, and have them installed. They also show new door panels for my car on there website, again, they look perfect, a bit pricey, especially for such basic Custom 300 door panels, $895.00 US for the 2 door panels and rear inner 1/4 panels. I could live with the price, but it seems when you place your order, they bill your credit card right away, and then,...you wait. I have seen so many people that have ordered stuff from SMS, and have had to wait over a year-year and a half, before they finally received their items. Almost all said the door panels were great, but the customer service, not. No mention of long waits, no contact to let you know the status of your order, unless you call them every few months. They told me my door panels would be approximately 6 months, but other I have talked with said they were told the same thing, but in reality, took well over a year. Maybe if I had ordered the stuff a couple of years ago, it wouldn`t be such a big deal, but since my car is almost what I considered finished, and I have been driving it for over a month, I really don`t want to wait that long, especially after they take my money right away. After watching ABC, and then LeBaron-Bonney go out of business, that just makes me worry. So I may have to settle for having the seats done "kinda" like factory, locally. Actually, my wife asked if I wanted her to try making some covers, I thought, "Yeah, right, you can`t do that", but a couple of weeks ago she came home with a bunch of material from a local Fabricland, and I gotta admit, if I was looking at a fabric chart at an upholstery shop, what she selected would have been near the top of my choices. My drivers side of the front seat was all disintegrated, with the foam and padding erupting from a huge hole from 60 years of driving. She did some measuring, and sewed up seat covers that follow the original pattern, and although certainly not concours perfect, I have to admit it looks pretty decent, a whole lot better than before, thats for certain. And she has enough material left to do the rear seat, although its not anywhere near as bad as the front was. But all the fabric totalled $41.00 Canadian! Can`t complain about that! As for us moving, I have lived in BC Canada all my life, always within a 50 mile radius of Vancouver. Last year, we spent most of August vacationing all over Atlantic Canada, and decided Nova Scotia was where we want to retire. So in March, I retired from my job as a dealership mechanic , we sold our house, and, and then Covid 19 hits. Luckily a friend offered us his coach house and large shop for a while, so while waiting for Covid to go away, I got more done on my 59 in 6 months than the previous 6 years. Aso, we have been constantly looking at real estate in Nova Scotia, have a book of listings that appealed to us. We just signed a deal to buy a property, with some acreage and a large garage, so as long as the inspections go well, we hope to be living there by late October. Some vehicles will need to be shipped, and we will drive there with my truck and the race car in the trailer. 6000 km, about 4000 miles, at 8 mpg towing, it will be a long, and expensive drive, but one we are looking forward to.
great efforts Jeff, got a lot done !
As I can't see the actual parts you used I just have some thoughts about your clutch pushrod. the 4 locked nuts. did you jam them tight both sides ? if so back them up a turn or 2. usually there are no counter nuts on the far side at all. and the nut on the pushing side needs a half a ball shape I am not sure if you have a crowned washer in there. the arm and rod tilt when clutch is applied and fully jammed locking nuts would put undue strain on the threaded rod which would lead to fatigue pretty soon. You probably have that figured out anyways, but just thinking out loud.
G.
an old Chevy rocker arm ball works nice
Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2020-09-01 13:52
great efforts Jeff, got a lot done !
As I can't see the actual parts you used I just have some thoughts about your clutch pushrod. the 4 locked nuts. did you jam them tight both sides ? if so back them up a turn or 2. usually there are no counter nuts on the far side at all. and the nut on the pushing side needs a half a ball shape I am not sure if you have a crowned washer in there. the arm and rod tilt when clutch is applied and fully jammed locking nuts would put undue strain on the threaded rod which would lead to fatigue pretty soon. You probably have that figured out anyways, but just thinking out loud.
G.
Yes G, I have some good hex stock... which I can machine a nice crown on the end and then drill and tap.... I then can lose the jam nuts on both ends..... The retraction spring will hold the fork on returns nicely!Thanks man!
Quote from: 59meteor on 2020-09-01 10:59
Jeff, I hear you on the SMS interior prices, I did buy the headliner and windlace for my 59 from SMS, not installed yet, but sure looks nice. SMS sent me material swatches, that match my old seats perfectly, but they only sell the material by the yard, and the seat fabrics alone would be $1100. US, then you have to have somebody turn the raw material into seat covers, and have them installed. They also show new door panels for my car on there website, again, they look perfect, a bit pricey, especially for such basic Custom 300 door panels, $895.00 US for the 2 door panels and rear inner 1/4 panels. I could live with the price, but it seems when you place your order, they bill your credit card right away, and then,...you wait. I have seen so many people that have ordered stuff from SMS, and have had to wait over a year-year and a half, before they finally received their items. Almost all said the door panels were great, but the customer service, not. No mention of long waits, no contact to let you know the status of your order, unless you call them every few months. They told me my door panels would be approximately 6 months, but other I have talked with said they were told the same thing, but in reality, took well over a year. Maybe if I had ordered the stuff a couple of years ago, it wouldn`t be such a big deal, but since my car is almost what I considered finished, and I have been driving it for over a month, I really don`t want to wait that long, especially after they take my money right away. After watching ABC, and then LeBaron-Bonney go out of business, that just makes me worry. So I may have to settle for having the seats done "kinda" like factory, locally. Actually, my wife asked if I wanted her to try making some covers, I thought, "Yeah, right, you can`t do that", but a couple of weeks ago she came home with a bunch of material from a local Fabricland, and I gotta admit, if I was looking at a fabric chart at an upholstery shop, what she selected would have been near the top of my choices. My drivers side of the front seat was all disintegrated, with the foam and padding erupting from a huge hole from 60 years of driving. She did some measuring, and sewed up seat covers that follow the original pattern, and although certainly not concours perfect, I have to admit it looks pretty decent, a whole lot better than before, thats for certain. And she has enough material left to do the rear seat, although its not anywhere near as bad as the front was. But all the fabric totalled $41.00 Canadian! Can`t complain about that! As for us moving, I have lived in BC Canada all my life, always within a 50 mile radius of Vancouver. Last year, we spent most of August vacationing all over Atlantic Canada, and decided Nova Scotia was where we want to retire. So in March, I retired from my job as a dealership mechanic , we sold our house, and, and then Covid 19 hits. Luckily a friend offered us his coach house and large shop for a while, so while waiting for Covid to go away, I got more done on my 59 in 6 months than the previous 6 years. Aso, we have been constantly looking at real estate in Nova Scotia, have a book of listings that appealed to us. We just signed a deal to buy a property, with some acreage and a large garage, so as long as the inspections go well, we hope to be living there by late October. Some vehicles will need to be shipped, and we will drive there with my truck and the race car in the trailer. 6000 km, about 4000 miles, at 8 mpg towing, it will be a long, and expensive drive, but one we are looking forward to.
Agree on all points about SMS Rory.
I too had samples sent and the swatches were perfect....but the cost for the entire 57 custom was about $4500 US..... then ad the exchange.... your about 7-8 K.... Not gonna happen.
I have heard heresy that the company may be in trouble in these times..... but that is just hearsay..... Still..... I can't risk that or wait a year or more.
Congrats on the move to Nova Scotia..... Beautiful Part of the country,we have many good friends from the Maritimes and many in N.S.My wife is a Maritimer and they are wonderful People.At one time we were planning to move to Annapolis Valley.
You shall love it!
Rory...I feel the pain with the move...in the last stages of Port Angeles WA to Branson relocate myself. A 2000 mi.e trip. We did the first of what will be 4-5 trips this week...moved animals and one car plus 1/2 the household stuff. Managed about 12 miles per gallon in the new (to me) 2014 F-350. (diesel) We once discussed Nova Scotia ourselves...saw some pics of the area, thought about visiting, but just never made it over. If the pics were anything like the real deal...I suspect you will love it!
Rory, Nova Scotia is absolutely beautiful and you will be very happy there, oh yeah, and welcome to the right coast! :003:
Sadly, I've never been to Nova Scotia, and I said sadly because my family roots on my dad's side are from Halifax,NS. (Roots on my mom's side are Shediac, New Brunswick.)
Well..been wiring as much as possible and about 90% done
I have signals left and the brake switch.
To be totally honest and Frank.... This Covid Bull**** is taking a toll...... work is completely different.... harder to get, lost my stepfather in this mess,some of my friends have lost their family members..... Very strange and difficult times.
But.. gotta keep moving forward.
Want to thank a superior fantastic member..Bill(Ford Blue Blood)
Bill really helped me a -T O N- through the wiring .....answered my very novice and idiotic questions... he is a very fine gentleman.
(Yes Bill, the fire dept is STILL standing by......)
Anyhow... getting the will or inspiration in the last 2 months has been very difficult.
The shifter is all together and working fine......Had to resort to the Hurst unit, after a lesson in frustration with a stock Ford Shifter..........
but thats another story along the riverbank.
Later.
(https://i.imgur.com/NjH0w6c.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CAIhVpD.jpg)
Looking good!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Bill's the man! He helped me tons when I wired mine. Great job Jeff, and I see you're using IMGUR as well.
Jeff, that heavy cable on top of the engine goes to the battery.
I am going to cheat with my wiring...bought one that says where it goes every 6 inches..."wiring for dummies" I call it...and I...well...yea...I bought it! LOL!!!
Looks really nice...I am jealous! :003:
To bad about the factory Ford shifter didn't work out for you. I had the same one in a 68 Ranchero where I learned as a 17 year old how to abuse a 4 speed transmission and 8 inch differential. The Hurst comp plus is superior, just doesn't have the same eye appeal as the Ford unit.
I still have my original ford shifter...plan on using it. Hopefully no issues. Do need the "T" handle and cable though.
Looks good. Same engine setup I'm going for. Still trying to find some valecovers.
Quote from: 62galxe on 2020-11-19 20:25
Looks good. Same engine setup I'm going for. Still trying to find some valecovers.
I am most assuredly NOT making any promises here...but when I get back to Port Angeles, I will look...think I have a pair. What engine are you looking for them? I believe mine are 312...
Quote from: 62galxe on 2020-11-19 20:25
Looks good. Same engine setup I'm going for. Still trying to find some valecovers.
Here you go...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Ford-FE-390-Valve-Cover-Pair-FORD-Script/254763138417?hash=item3b5110fd71:g:4gsAAOSw3Rlfmy3e
best of both...looks like OE shifter but bolts to Hurst mechanicals
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5zz-7210-t?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiA7939BRBMEiwA-hX5J38vu7I-WBmaJM8L_7Jv-hHVE-SB4ZARPIEAUJNYsOwVEuSG57HmhhoCBZoQAvD_BwE
Gary, Gee THANKS! Now there is something else I have to have...lol. I have a question: That handle is cool but there doesn't seem to be a "Ford type" knob with the correct shift pattern. The Scott Drake knobs have reverse in the wrong place? Is that the pattern for the original Ford shifters?
Yes Gary ,.. thank you...but I am satisfied where I am at this point.Must move on and carry on.
Very small Update.......
-all wiring completed-
-doors aligned very well and fitment done, inner latches work well and shut/open very nicely.
-spare hood and small pieces back from the paint shop.... hopefully... car will be in the bodyshop within a 2-4 week period.
-interior fabric and parts needed have been ordered.. waiting...
-heading to exhaust shop in the next week.
Covid is still a big issue.. in another lockdown here... very frustrating.
thanks
(https://i.imgur.com/BInHCrk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2rr32Yz.jpg)
Sorry to hear about the continued lockdown up there. We will get thru this thing.
Dash looks absolutely perfect, as does the hood. It's going to be an awesome ride, Jeff. Thanks for keeping us updated.
That looks like a hell of a club plaque collection you've got and your shop is looking great from what we can see, especially now that you've had some time to add some decor.hint hint Your talents are never ending!
that is going to be so nice Jeff ! loving the many details like the delete everything plates, and the dealer install heater looks sweet. loving your accessory gauges and tach ( have EXACTLY the same halfsweap 8k SUN in my 34)...and the paint...is 8 miles deep ! :003:
wow can't wait to see it all in paint !
Stay safe !
Jeff so glad to see all the smoke stayed in the wires! Looking really good! Slow is not all bad, slow is better then stopped.....
Thanks Rich,G and Bill!
Jeff it looks really FINE! Sorry for the slow response, we have been at the beach for the past week.
Great progress, speed is of no importance.
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2021-05-12 09:25
Great progress, speed is of no importance.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Well...sort of...not in the build process...but post build... :burnout: can be of
some importance. :003:
I see you have the engine badge on your glove box door. Talking to Randy Connor when he was still alive he told me these only came on early production cars. Do you know the production date and which plant it was built at?
Well...... about 3 weeks ago... I was all set to hit the exhaust shop then to the bodyshop.....
And of course.. a massive hiccup..... no.. a mule kick right in the B***s.
I notice a slight amount coolant leaking just under the thermostat housing... not a drip... just a wetness.....I figured it just needed a 1/8 turn of tightening and paid no attention.A very good Ford Pal dropped by to double check my wiring and other progress....(I believe in have a fresh set of eyes roll over prior work... just to make sure)
Mentioned the coolant"wetness" and he said.. i should use a flat water instead of a lock washer around the thermostat housing.... because a split washer tends to seep and leak.
Ok... no problem.... I put it on the "to do" list... which never seems to decline.
Drained the coolant, removed the housing,...cleaned,new gasket and applied the "Right Stuff" RTV(I love that product)
Let it cure for 24hours(which I do with anything)
Next day... fill the system with coolant and..... I have a massive leak coming from the housing and intake underside.
Great.. now what.....?
Drain the coolant again(of what left) Slowly und to 2 fasteners,.. and as I remove the top bolt ...I feel a "pop"... a big chunk of my NOS intake snaps off.
Well.... now what?
I have 3 options..... buy a new intake,repair the unit or find a crappy boring 4 barrel unit.
You must understand this intake has NEVER been on a car.It was a service replacement unit and date coded.
To say I was heartbroken was a understatement.
Back to my options.....I looked up and searched what the cost of buying a new intake was..... 900 USD - 2000 USD..... and combine that with present exchange and shipping.... I was looking anywhere from 1500-2500 bucks ...And with no reassurances a new intake would not be square..shaved ,... already welded upon,...etc.etc.Too big of a risk.
I need to repair what I have..... so.I have another acquaintance .. who is an EXTREMELY talented welder... who after I presented the problem...said he could fix it.
So.... I then removed the fuel system.. and all linkage,etc.etc, removed the upper valve train. the shafts and such.... pulled the intake very very gently.
After doing some research..... I found that this was a very common occurrence with these factory intakes....didn't make me feel better.
So.. off it went...... he told me he was so busy and it would be a month.....
ugh.
Wait wait wait.
Then..I got the call and I was down at his shop and got it.
Absolutely...PERFECT.
I wasted no time this weekend with the help of my friend Terry and got it all back together.....
NOW..... I am going to the exhaust shop.
So.. thats my sad story.... hahahah
And thanks guys for the kind words in the previous posts..... The war continues and we will persevere.
(https://i.imgur.com/F6Znj84.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GMXSQHK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1bZKzJz.jpg)
Quote from: glr7533 on 2021-05-15 21:57
I see you have the engine badge on your glove box door. Talking to Randy Connor when he was still alive he told me these only came on early production cars. Do you know the production date and which plant it was built at?
This car is a Dallas Plant car. and was built in October of 57..... The engine badge was bought from a member here on this site a while back
thanks.
Thanks for the update, Jeff. Wow, I assume the pic of the bare intake was AFTER repair? Very very nice repair. Not sure what we're looking at with the broken area...is that an insert? That hole is way too close to the top surface....should have had some more meat in the casting. I can see why there has been regular issues with it.
BTW, I went by Larry Grillet's old place last week. There's still a 1/2 dozen cars there. Apparently, the family decided to keep some? Definitely not the best of what he had, but maybe some family special memories for the particular cars left. His friend with the 30's Willys at the other end of the building is still there as well.
WOW! bad luck. I agree, something doesn't look right, it appears to have a helicoil insert. Enlarging the hole to do that would weaken that area.
Yes. definitely a helicoil insert. and to be honest..I never noticed it ever.
I made sure we studded the area.. better than threading into the intake with a bolt.Yes Rich. the bare intake is after the disaster.
One good thing though.. better to happen in the shop than on a 500 mile tour...... That would have been truly a nightmare,.....
But we are all good and back into the boat.
Jeff, Glad you found somebody really talented to fix the intake, the repair appears invisible. That bolt hole looks like it didn`t have much meat around the top. Seems kinda odd that a NOS intake would have had a Helicoil, unless it was defective to begin with. As for being common, that is a new one for me. I have had a number of factory FE Ford aluminum intakes over the years, including a tripower, but although I have had the occasional valve cover , distributor hold down, T stat, or carb bolt hole strip out after decades of use, but I never had a piece break off that way before. As for the thermostat housing bolts, every FE T stat housing bolt that I have ever seen came from Ford with a lock washer swedged onto the bolt. Considering that the T stat bolt holes are blind, and there is a gasket in between, not really sure how any coolant would be able to wick thru the bolt threads.
Another congrats on a fantastic repair.
Image #1 seems to show "dust" below the failure.
Almost looks like aluminum shavings.
I wonder if the previous Helicoil job had left the hole packed with leftover cuttings?
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2021-05-31 09:21
BTW, I went by Larry Grillet's old place last week. There's still a 1/2 dozen cars there. Apparently, the family decided to keep some? Definitely not the best of what he had, but maybe some family special memories for the particular cars left. His friend with the 30's Willys at the other end of the building is still there as well.
Rich..... I haven't been down for quite some time... and I do miss many of my friends in your hood.I remember going to Larry's warehouse(or one of them) many times... filled with 56 fords,T-Birds and he had a love for 55-56 Mopars(specially The Plymouth versions)
Larry did quite well in his life.
The other man you speak of I believe was Delbert.... he owned a true untouched Ford dealership on the corner.It was amazing place filled up with all Delbert's cars... hotrods,Stockers and such.Delbert passed a few years before Larry.... I really like both guys and Delbert was a very nice man..... He was into racing way back into the 40's.He had a Rail car filled with WWII pacific theatre memorabilia .... very rare stuff.I believe Delbert's son now is in charge...I met him a couple times.. but I forget his name.Childress is a neat town.
Quote from: 59meteor on 2021-05-31 17:49
Jeff, Glad you found somebody really talented to fix the intake, the repair appears invisible. That bolt hole looks like it didn`t have much meat around the top. Seems kinda odd that a NOS intake would have had a Helicoil, unless it was defective to begin with. As for being common, that is a new one for me. I have had a number of factory FE Ford aluminum intakes over the years, including a tripower, but although I have had the occasional valve cover , distributor hold down, T stat, or carb bolt hole strip out after decades of use, but I never had a piece break off that way before. As for the thermostat housing bolts, every FE T stat housing bolt that I have ever seen came from Ford with a lock washer swedged onto the bolt. Considering that the T stat bolt holes are blind, and there is a gasket in between, not really sure how any coolant would be able to wick thru the bolt threads.
Rory..I have no answers.... and these things you mention baffle me as well.... all i know its fixed and ready to go!
Quote from: Rancher on 2021-05-31 20:07
Another congrats on a fantastic repair.
Image #1 seems to show "dust" below the failure.
Almost looks like aluminum shavings.
I wonder if the previous Helicoil job had left the hole packed with leftover cuttings?
Rancher.. thank you,.. the dust you see was caused by me(I failed to mention this) After I removed the housing.....and before I disassembled the top end... I took a small file to remove a little bit of fragments..I have 3-4 different T-Housings(style wise) and I wanted to make sure all fit.
The reason was... Ford had a larger diameter t-Stat from 58-66.... then a smaller T-Stat diameter from 66-76.
Within each housing.. its groove cut to let the T-Stat sit into the housing.... so..I was checking the fitment for both styles.
I have the part numbers on my phone..... somewhere in a text.
Funny enough..I picked up (2) 180 Thermostats made from Mr Gasket..... Never installed them... put them back into the bench... Chinese made.
I always use NOS or NORS stuff(when ever possible!).... I use Pre-60's that has a lot of NOS replacement stuff.
Not cheap... but.. Chinese off shore garbage is and will fail.
Bottom line.... I don't wanna do this again.....
sorry-long winded reply! hahaha
Thats a good precaution, MR Gasket thermostats have a bad reputation.
I've went through so many 'big box' store thermostats. I've been using Milodon with satisfaction. I still prefer no thermostat but my EFI car wouldn't get hot enough to go into closed loop so I had to install a thermostat.
T-stats are an amazing discussion thing. Back in the day, some of use remember then, if it went over 160 it was too hot. How many years did we run with no t-stat to get more HP? Not sure that wasn't anything but urban legend....My 90 T-bird Super Coupe had a 209 t-stat. Made really good HP with that and the EFI was real happy.
Old hot rodder friend gets real nervous when his temp gauge starts to get close to 180, I just keep on telling him "Burney, if it ain't loosing water it ain't hot", he just rubs his flat top hair cut head and smiles.....
Well. last night---Success!
Went over the entire systems.. checking for any potential leaks.. after a few hours .. with the help of my friend Terry Redmond(Ford Tech guy)
we fired the car and it ran perfectly.
Oil pressure was at 65psi cold,. and then at 40-45 Hot.... engine is very responsive.... so much so Terry just smiled and said"She sure is snappy".... he is a man who says very little.
....all electrical is perfect,system was charging and all systems are functioning.I have fired the engine only very briefly, but never for more than a 30 second interval....
The FE is new and tight... not in a bad way... it just needs some hours on it.Tuned a wee bit but that will come a little later after the exhaust is done(which is the next move)
Set the idle around 800-900 rpm.... the cam gets too choppy and rough under that... again... the car needs to be fine tuned in the future.
Could not yard drive it.. it was too late and dark.... man.. with no exhaust... that thing is L O U D! I don't think my neighbours would have appreciated me rolling down our road last night.
Heat rose to 180 and stayed... after the first fire up(15 minutes of run time) did it again for 20 minutes and the heat was still at 180.
So.. it was a very happy evening.
:rock_band: :occasion14: :026: :icon_jook: :boobies2:
TA DA!!! Sounds good! Summer is gonna be GREAT!!!
Great news Jeff, I know that ear to ear grin will be there for a long time!
That is exciting news Jeff.
The neighbour factor is seven. I know that when my FE fires up, they guy 7 houses down says his wives plates rattle. I told him to put paper napkins between the plates.
Terry
:canada:
Quote from: FiveSevenLiter on 2021-06-03 08:56
That is exciting news Jeff.
The neighbour factor is seven. I know that when my FE fires up, they guy 7 houses down says his wives plates rattle. I told him to put paper napkins between the plates.
Terry
:canada:
HaHaHa ..Funny Terry
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2021-06-03 07:26
Great news Jeff, I know that ear to ear grin will be there for a long time!
Thank you Bill.. and again... thanks ever so much for ALL the help on my wiring time... Your a GREAT member here..... This build has been drawn out and more to go... this darn virus has played havoc here with constant lock downs and work has gone to a crawl..... Keeping a float is always on the horizon.
Your build is coming along great.
In my neighborhood, more than half still leave 9-5 weekdays. I have tried real hard to keep my circus to weekdays. There are a couple of light duty car guys and that doesn't hurt. I was spoiled when I lived on the farm. I could do any damn thing I wanted. Well almost, I drew a little attention with that dynamite thing.
Michigan just removed all outdoor restrictions. Michigan International Speedway is planning for a sell out. No mask if you're vaccinated. Still haven't gotten adjusted to shipping cost and reliability but with the shortages, shipping doesn't matter. I hope the border opens soon.
Great news Jeff ! she will be ready for the street very soon !
Great news, I have visions of smoking tires :003:
When I started my FE for the first time (no exhaust system) my neighbor came over to see what it was. There are few feelings better than starting a cool engine for the first time. Congrats! Make me want to build another engine....
Well... another update.... exhaust is finished and very happy.
I also used the 1956 Ford shock trick to get extra reach on rear tire removal... works well with about 4 inches more.. and cheap... the shocks were 35 bucks each.
So now off to paint and i'll see the car most likely in the late fall.
Jeff
(https://i.imgur.com/3FNJqyM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yBhJK4z.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BmRocR7.jpg)
Jeff
Your car is looking good and that exhaust system is going to be some fun, but I'll leave that for you to explain. Hopefully you will be driving it this year. Jay
Well.. after 5 years... its back.black and Beautiful.. now final assembly begins....
Building 2 at once can be ... exhausting... but the Lord hates a Coward!
All painted but still needs to be cut n buffed.
Now the real fun begins...
On a good note. it runs stops and steers perfectly.
(https://i.imgur.com/R83JIQR.jpg)
:burnout: SWEET!!! :blob9:
Now the real FUN begins! Looking SWEET!
That looks great! Looking forward to seeing it after final assembly.
5 years, wow. Looks awesome, Jeff. Going to be ready for that show you were talking about?
Thanks Guys!
Rich, Hoping so!!!!! Thanks!
(https://i.imgur.com/fS9wDmV.jpg)
Looks great, Jeff!
Rory , CJ,... thank you!..I was having my coffee this morning looking at it. planning my next attack.. and chuckled at each time in a post I said"Yep. should be back form the body shop in a few months."
ha ha
Anyhow. the weather 2 days ago was beautiful and now its blanketed by a storm of fresh snow and cold.... so.... I gonna fire up the pellet stove and get started...
The painter wants me to wait a few months before he cuts and polishes.. apparently he wants the body to "gas out"..... releasing any chems that come out and really let paint harden up good.
The paint is a HD Fleet paint,.. single stage and very easy to blow in on any scratches or chips.I have a friend who painted his 32 Ford truck with the same stuff and his paint is hard as nails and no swirls in it after a cleaning.....
This is what I have been told anyhow...... then again..I did trade a cow for magic beans too.
ha ha
A first class Chevy KILLER :003: :burnout:
Looking GOOD! I can almost see you back in my rear view mirror.
This has given my inspiration to take the White Witch out for lunch, then I will have to mow the lawn.
Terry
:canada:
Assembly has been going well. slow. but well.... Bumpers are tuff to hold with one hand and bolt into place... but all done and no accidents.. side trim is next, headliner, rubber and then glass.
(https://i.imgur.com/zMlUkfp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ACtf2A6.jpg)
Jeff, what size tires did you end up using? Car looks fantastic!
Normally, I prefer 2 tone paint on older cars that have enough side trim to provide a break between the colors, but that thing looks so sinister in solid block! And I guess it is the "old guy" in me, but nothing looks better than nice shiny chrome bumpers, especially on a black car. And finally, that Thunderbird hood scoop looks perfect on there, I sure there was more than a few minutes of work to make it look so perfect, especially on a black car.
Randy. the tire set up is...
front-205/75r15
rear-235/75r15
I like it because of the rubber rake....it works for me.
Rory- I have to agree with your thoughts.... but I wanted an all black sinister looking 57. and it fits the bill.
I will be installing the side trim(custom) this week(need to friends to help me do this..).... which I think will give the pop it needs.. along with the window trim(after the headliner is in)
To be totally honest.I wanted to go with a black/white split,... Identical to Lynns car. His car is a big favourite of mine.
The T-Bird scoop was a piece I love.. its styling goes with the era in my opinion.
Funny enough, the T-Bird scoop was a cut out from an original(I did not cut up an original... bought it that way)..... and it still retained the back lip from the original hood.So when I was placing it on my 57 hood. the rear lip set upon the 57 hood rear lip and its where it wanted to be.... any further forward. it started to look wonky.
I do have a complete stock 57 extra hood that was painted 2 years back.. And if I care too (probably not) I can switch up hoods.
Thanks fellas...I will continue to push forward... and unless any unforeseen issues come up... I want to be on the road at the end of May.
(https://i.imgur.com/qFsF2bT.jpg)
Jeff you're going to appreciate to extra length on the shocks if you ever have change a tire. I have 235/70/15's and had to Jack it on the frame to get a wheel off. With the stock length 57 shocks it was a real struggle to get past the fender lip and brake drum.
Randy,When I building my 59, even with the rear shocks removed, it was almost impossible for me to get the 275/60R15 tires, on 15x8 steel wheels, during "mock up". Since I was going to get the rearend narrowed 3/4" per side, and having custom 31 spline axles made, I had late Torino ends welded on, and went to 10" drum rear brakes, from a mid 90s Explorer. Now, even with the big tires, I can get the tires on and off without having to disconnect the rear shocks, or let air out of the tires. And, although the Explorer rear drum brakes are an inch smaller diameter, the are 2 1/2" wide, compared to 1 3/4" x 11' for the stock brakes, so the 10" brakes actually have more surface area.
Quote from: rmk57 on 2023-04-04 12:11Jeff you're going to appreciate to extra length on the shocks if you ever have change a tire. I have 235/70/15's and had to Jack it on the frame to get a wheel off. With the stock length 57 shocks it was a real struggle to get past the fender lip and brake drum.
Yes... those 56 shocks are going to work very well Randy.
Love the black, looks like a super straight car and fitment. Can't wait to see the build progresssion photos.
Now where is that scripture? The book of Norwell Chapter 3 verse 16?
Is it finished yet, you have had it home a week?
Terry
:canada:
Looking awesome Jeff!
So.. all vent windows installed and repaired(thanks to Ford Blue Bloods ingenues idea....)Run channels installed and now putting side glass in...its a real PIA.
Side trim on polished up and secured.
I need the headliner installed,... then front and rear glass with the stainless....
after that... Tune..... and DRIVE IT.
I will be doing the interior.but it will be coming this summer.
I have my Business mans rear tray being made right now..... and it will be 95% close to an original....
I will mention this.. if anyone is interested..My friend Rob that is making the tray..... (VERY talented metal guy) will have 2-5 made for possible sale if interest can be garnered.
I will update that in the future.I have no idea of cost..... but we shall see.
Anyhow.... this is a useless post with out pics.
(https://i.imgur.com/vgsufK2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PRYWTQa.jpg)
more.....
(https://i.imgur.com/sbug54O.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7yRlzUo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/a4iWQDN.jpg)
Lookin' good Jeff! REAL good!
Stunning ! Beautiful !
SINISTER!
Well.. been moving forward. a bit of a slower pace, but thats just life...
My interior pal, Jesse came by and did the headliner and Wind Lace this past weekend....
When time and $$$$ permits I will finish the seat, and door panels, etc,etc..... Its more important at this point to drive this car.
all I have left is the front, rear and fixed quarter glass installation.
Pics from Jesse's start to finish.
I will say,... its a job I would NEVER attempt due to the fact I have zero experience. Steamers ,special cut n tuck tools and 20 years+ experience truly helps....
he took more time installing the wind lace than the head liner itself.I was very impressed with Jesse's skill.
Truth be told..I think he was bored installing a stock headliner..... hahaha but knocked out of the park.
(https://i.imgur.com/A4M8aTS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/39wF2V1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/j5zvTM0.jpg)
few more pics.....
(https://i.imgur.com/5AuAqrV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TbE4x3X.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CupZQlM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dlsEiSO.jpg)
Nice, neat job; looks fantastic.
I've done "Moonskin" headliners in early Mustangs, but I'm not sure I would even attempt a '57.
Quote from: CobraJoe on 2023-05-17 07:29Nice, neat job; looks fantastic.
I've done "Moonskin" headliners in early Mustangs, but I'm not sure I would even attempt a '57.
I asked him about the tougher headliner installs Joe.. he said a 57 was very easy. but a headliner with big sail rear panels was a tricky job.....
you could pull this off.....
Lookin' good Jeff! Almost ready for a Friday night cruise! :burnout:
Quote from: Jeff Norwell on 2023-05-17 08:30I asked him about the tougher headliner installs Joe.. he said a 57 was very easy. but a headliner with big sail rear panels was a tricky job.....
you could pull this off.....
Thanks, good to know!
Jeff
I know that you will be driving and enjoying that beautiful car this summer with a big smile on your face. Keep up the good work. Jay
Looks fantastic Jeff! I always wondered how the assembly line workers installed the headliners in these older cars in a matter of a minute or so while building these cars new. I assume Jesse is in Ontario? Any idea if he is planning a vacation to Nova Scotia anytime soon? (Hint, Hint!) I have a new SMS cloth headliner and the windlace that I bought years ago for my 59, that I would love to have a craftsman like him install. Seems to be a lost art, since most cars have gone to 1 piece cardboard backed headliners for the past 30-40 years. Seems that your 57 has more roof bows than my 59 2 door sedan has. Bet you are getting itchy to start driving the black beast!
Rory.. you should give him a call!
I cant see why he would not go out for a summer vacation and do a job for a day.
If you need his number, message me and I will put you guys in contact.
And thanks for the kind words.....
Glass went in flawlessly with the help of 3 pals and a 4 in the cheering section..... rear glass first(15 minutes). Front Glass next, in and done in about 20.
The side quarter glass was a bit more tricky.. but after 30 minutes per side...all good... no rubber puckering and a nice tight seal.
I still have a list of small things to achieve... but that can be done as I go.
So yesterday I fired the Bird up and took it on its maiden voyage..... first..about 5 times around our town..... all good, brakes,gears and drive.I then went out and wheeled to the next town..... rowed they the gears with ease....
I do have a slight timing issue,. but no deal breaker.The car stopped, accelerates and handles very very well.The Big Block is my wheel house.. tons of torque,.. which I really like.I am gonna swap out the radials for the set of Bias plus for about town driving...
Of course, I need to finish the interior(over the next season) some small kinks with a new build.. but over all extremely happy.Our cars are never really done.
I know this thread is very long.... and I want to thank each and everyone of you that followed along, with help, advice and good thoughts.
I certainly learned a lot on this adventure.
This build is now complete.
(https://i.imgur.com/xYq2g4e.jpg)
Yahoooo!!!! Sounds like you had a way better first drive than most of us had.
Congrats! Gonna be a fun summer! :003: :burnout:
When can you start on mine? It's starting to get a little ratty in places.
That car looks fantastic! I'm really liken the T-bird scoop, like it was made for it.
Well....... been a while since I made an update of any kind here.
So my Bus. Tray is finished and installed. My good Pal Rob is a very talented fabricator and a few years back..... I asked him if he was interested in making a Bus. Tray for me.... because finding an original is very difficult, if not impossible.
Anyhow he agreed and In the past year I had to get it finished(or started) because the interior was getting ready to be done.
So..I had access to a real one..... took a great many photos and detailed info.The owner of that tray said I could borrow it.I declined..... just to rare of a part for me to have for an extended period of time.....
so.. E-code here on the board had sketched he made and I did borrow his as a starting point.
I then sketch up a rough.. then reminded it to another large drafting paper and made a template of the tray itself.
I passed this onto Rob..... he then made a metal buck..... and then pounded a tray into shape.
Following the photos I had of the legs and feet.. he made them as well.
We did a test fit, and it was bang on.
He did want to put a strengthener on the underside (which he did)....
I then got it back, fitted once more for good measure,..... Painted it and installed.
I am very happy......
Rob is willing to make a few more..... steel or Aluminum...... yes.. shipping could be tricky.... but he is a manager for a very large trucking firm.
In the end.... I have one of his creations... and Happy is an understatement.
(https://i.imgur.com/DP4wtIX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zmN6ZYF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kJpcX8K.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/emlrvg8.jpg)
More Tray images......
(https://i.imgur.com/Vrfj5SK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HrNzWzF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7kR1HPh.jpg)
So while that tray was being finalized..I needed to make the 1/4 window lower panels and trunk area panel..... along with a package, parcel tray panel.
Using material supplied from Jesse my upholstery guy..I again made a rough paper template..... then cardboard templates.. then once satisfied with shape and fitment. the #9 charcoal grey cards were cut and fitted.
I had some 57 Fairlane quarter window rubber seals which topped of the ridge of the exposed parcel tray and trunk piece...
Kinda finished it nicely.
Speaking of Jesse the interior guy.. he is doing the bench seat now.. making a stock custom seat..... the one I had was a very worn seat covered in 59 material and on backwards.....
So.. the seat shall be back next week and .... I will install.
Fall is here and the days are hit n miss.I would really like to go for one last long burn before the November rains come......
(https://i.imgur.com/ljkW7Te.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hGyvrxA.jpg)
and a last note.. not really important.. but I geek out on this stuff......
I have been doing some build renderings for a client of mine. automotive stuff.. and he mentions that I should do some fender badging of the logo I made up for this car years back.....
So he took it upon himself to grab the drawings and he is in the process of making a set of fender badges for me.
he will have them polished,Gold anodized and then do needle injection paint work....
I have seen his other finished custom badging. it its mind blowing....
whether I ever run these or they shall only be in the studio cabinet is still up in the air..... but I was really blown away he wanted to even do this.
(https://i.imgur.com/qo7w3JZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/miiveZU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tUNjK7z.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vxWRM1G.jpg)
Jeff..you need to start a club.........."The Norwell World of Talent". Awesome handwork on the back tray, and the programming of that NC mill.
Looking REAL nice Jeff.Gonna be slick when finished to say the least. The package tray look real sweet!
And I like the Dirty Bird too!
Thanks Fellas!
VERY IMPRESSIVE!
Thanks Lynn!
Three :thumbsup:
Thanks Joe!
Well...Those little badges turned out pretty awesome....
Waiting for my seat, right door panel and single visor to return...Hopefully within the next 7 days.....
(https://i.imgur.com/ZyeW6Re.jpg)
Wow, looking great, Jeff. Did you do the painting/finishing, or your friend? He must do this for a business!? OK, never mind, I went back and reread your first post. "Needle injection painting" that's a new one on me, and I suspect many of us old geezers.
I never heard of needle injection either Rich..... yes.Tom, the man that painted my car laid down son HOK gold Candy over a silver base.
I believe they wanted to anodize.. but the cost was a little crazy for such a small item.
John,. they guy who did the machine work told me the whole procedure.. but my eyes glazed over after 30 seconds of completely not understanding his process.
hahaha
Well.... got my interior pretty much back and installed... everything but the door panels(Maybe today)
My interior man Jesse did an outstanding job... all is factory correct.
B I G Thanks to our man Pat F. and Jay Arrow.
Pat really helped with the fine details......
I may just have to go for on last run of the season here.... its very clear and sunny. and very crisp... 28 degrees .... I had the heater core replaced and it throws very good heat.....
(https://i.imgur.com/mjPfK0D.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/h1tAURq.jpg)
A few more.....
(https://i.imgur.com/U9Qsl6X.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ou0QCcz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iCqZwtQ.jpg)
Very nice, looks to be the same pattern as Jay's?
Outstanding.
Oh so sweet! Well done Jeff!
Looks great , Jeff. Question about the arm rests, both my 57 (Canadian) Ford Sedan Deliveries, had 1 piece black armrests, look pretty much the same as my 59 Meteors, rather than the hard plastic base with separate upholstered top section, I ASSumed the Customs would have as well, but I guess not, unless maybe it was a Canadian built car thing.
Also, does anybody know if all 57 Customs had black steering wheels, were colored wheels available, or was that only on the fancier models? Both my 57 Sedan Deliveries and my 57 Custom 4 door sedan, all had gray interiors with black steering wheels and gray dashboards, even though one Sedan Delivery was Cumberland Green, the other was Starmist Blue and White, and the Custom was a darker blue.
And finally, did only the Custom model have the small steering wheel horn button, and the Custom 300s had a horn ring? I have a very nice 57 Custom steering wheel and small horn button, and the spokes on the steering wheel do not have the indentations for the spokes of a horn ring, so I am guessing the steering wheel for a horn button is unique to that.
I am starting to sound like Lt. Columbo here, but "one more thing", Jeff, what did you use for the seat belts? At first, I bought some aftermarket silver lap belts from a company called "EZ Boy", or "Safety Boy", or something like that, my 59 never came with any seat belts, so I installed 2 for the front and 2 for the rear, I wonder if that is what the factory did, or did they install 6 belts if seat belts were ordered. Lucky for me, shortly after I moved East, a local guy had 2 brand new in the box, silver factory Ford seat belt assemblies, complete with hardware, advertised on Marketplace, for 20 bucks each, so I installed those in the front. They have a 1966 date, so newer than original, but still look pretty old school.
Also Jeff, was your Custom sold new in Canada or the USA? Reason I ask, is that you have the basic single knob heater, and I can`t ever recall seeing on of those up here, in a Canadian built car. I did have a 59 Custom 300 parts car (No Customs in 59, the base was the Custom 300), that had that small, base heater, but that was a car that I bought in Washington State, which was a real stripper (6 cylinder, 3 speed manual, no radio, or cigarette lighter, no door jam switches for the dome light, a single sun visor, etc.
The single knob heaters were dealer installed. It would make sense that Canadian built cars would all have factory heaters.
Didn't both of Jeff's 57's come from Texas?
As far as armrests go mine never came with any, but it's a Custom not a Custom 300.
Thanks guys..
I will try to answer the questions to the best of my ability.
The armrests are a 2 piece, a hard plastic base and a foam type upholstery insert.On a Bus. sedan.... they only came with one,... drivers side... or as my research indicates.The one I gave my upholstery guy had black material and it was very evident it was not factory(someone re-did it years ago.) Jesse(upholstery guy) asked what color, I said the gray material to match the rest of the car. On my Custom 300 the 4 arm rests are done in the same gray.....interesting,... when Jesse looked up that material and the color...Ford still uses it today(or lists it as a pattern and color today.... going back 60 years!
On what models.I have no idea.I found that to be fascinating.
I have a bunch of arm rests with original material from customs and custom 300's... all gray base plastic and some of the material is black.. some are gray.
So.. not too sure on the rhyme or reason.
The interior Pattern is call a "Block" pattern... only used on customs..... the Custom 300 uses the same pattern as a Ranchero.... and it was available in Gray,Green and Blue.Again... just my research.
Actually. on our site here.. at one time James took the effort to show all the different colors and patterns for each model of car.
But.. it seems hard to access here.. I just get them darned "X's" when I visit that part of our site.
I have only ever seen Black Custom wheels....But again.... who knows.
Yes.I have seen different color wheels on a custom 300 and they only came with the upgraded wheel and horn ring.
I have a custom wheel on the custom 300 at present(black n white car).. and the wheel now on the black custom is a 57 T-Bird wheel...I have to switch the wheels in the near future.
So yes. a custom wheel has a small horn button...
Both my cars are Texas cars..... the custom 300 was born in late October of 57 and and the black custom was born in Dallas in July of 57.
interesting note, the Black n White custom 300.... was only on the road from 1957-1971.... 14 years.... the same year the Dallas plant closed..... thats kinda Christine (-ish).
My seatbelts.... where I got them.... I just can't remember.... they were brand new and in a bag with all the proper hardware.
I really like the look of the Simple aircraft style clasps.
My wife really wanted them in the car..... so.I obliged.Around here it became law in the mid-late 60's (mandatory ) to have seatbelts.... and neither of my 57's had them.
I have a second set of belts I will use in the 57 custom 300 when I get to that point.
Heaters- The black custom had not heater.... it was a heater delete car..... but I found the dealer added heater in my travels complete with the accessories (black knob on the delete plate)....
The Custom 300 had a heater from the factory...
I wanted a heater for window defrost..... and to keep it cozy on cool fall days or spring days...... Like the past weekend yesterday... that little heater just took the edge off.
One last thing.. the single sun visor was made and copied from the original card board ones I have.... Jesse... asked if I wanted to copy the card board ones and I said no... please wrap them in the same material as the arm rest.
anyhow.... I am very happy with how it all turned out..... It took 3x the time to get one done.. with dates always being used back.
I will say before owing any 57 Ford.I was very much a Hot Rod guy..... Model A's. Coupla 32 Fords,Roadsters,34 Coupe ,etc, etc.....
These 2 57's far exceed the enjoyment of ANY previous cars... and now that I am driving one.... my expectations have been met with sheer Joy.
Maybe its my age now.... but I don't ever think I will go back to a Hot Rod..... the cost has Multiplied by 1000%... and you can't get the enjoyment as I can with these 57's.
This is just my own personal thoughts.
As mentioned before.... I could have NOT attained the build on these cars by myself..... and this board and all its wealth of knowledge helped me immensely .
Jay Arrow and Pat F. really helped me.... and all you guys.... its too bad y'all live so darn Far away.
Anyhow..Thanks very much!
And this past Sunday was a great drive..... good for the soul.
(https://i.imgur.com/AEHQBGr.jpg)
It looks homesick to me.
Road trip for Jeff perhaps this summer? :burnout:
Jeff, the new stock interior matches all the efforts you have gone through with Dirtybird ! I never knew you were going to go all the way, but it really pays off now. I clearly also remember the sweet feel and smell of Jay's Custom interior (same as yours) which is very rich ( albeit being the cheapest model). The texture and pattern of the cloth and vinyl are pure 50s flavor ! So great to see the black one out and about - One Mean Ride !
So looking forward to see your Custom next to Johns and Jays , next summer maybe ?
Just wanted to say X2 on all you said about driving a 57. It is NOT about age. I was a mere 25 years old when I had my first 57 and within 2 years was building my chopped and channeled flat V8 A truck, and that was one thing. WILD ! Never came close to the A+ driving experience of the 57! the wraparound windshield in a 57, the low seating position, stock seats and all, pedals, steering column, stock column shift, gauges, dash, quarter air vents, fresh air pulls, sloping hood, hooded fenders, fins in the mirrors....all combined with beautiful ride quality, low noise interior ( not speaking of big FEs)...EVERYTHING is GREAT about a '57 Ford ! ( Well...nearly everything.... :003: )
Jeff, any thoughts on brings the 57 down to the FE Race and Reunion at Beaver Springs Pennsylvania next year? I believe that the 2024 meet will be the 12th annual event. Not sure how far you are located from Toronto, but looking on Google, it appears the Beaver Springs Dragway is only about a 6 hour drive from Toronto , it`s about 18 hours for me here in Nova Scotia. In recent years, the FE event has been in early September, although I don`t have a concrete date for 2024 yet. I have been twice, and had planned to attend with my 59 Meteor this, but a terrible weather forecast thwarted that. The 2024 event is at the top of my list for next year, be great to have more 57-59 Fords there!
Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2023-11-14 10:21Jeff, the new stock interior matches all the efforts you have gone through with Dirtybird ! I never knew you were going to go all the way, but it really pays off now. I clearly also remember the sweet feel and smell of Jay's Custom interior (same as yours) which is very rich ( albeit being the cheapest model). The texture and pattern of the cloth and vinyl are pure 50s flavor ! So great to see the black one out and about - One Mean Ride !
So looking forward to see your Custom next to Johns and Jays , next summer maybe ?
I
REALLY want to get down to Carver and have my 57 with Jay's WL and John V's red Missile.
I having been speaking with Jay about this.... Hopefully G. this can be attained.
Thanks for the kind and inspiring words G.... mean a ton!
Quote from: 59meteor on 2023-11-14 17:39Jeff, any thoughts on brings the 57 down to the FE Race and Reunion at Beaver Springs Pennsylvania next year? I believe that the 2024 meet will be the 12th annual event. Not sure how far you are located from Toronto, but looking on Google, it appears the Beaver Springs Dragway is only about a 6 hour drive from Toronto , it`s about 18 hours for me here in Nova Scotia. In recent years, the FE event has been in early September, although I don`t have a concrete date for 2024 yet. I have been twice, and had planned to attend with my 59 Meteor this, but a terrible weather forecast thwarted that. The 2024 event is at the top of my list for next year, be great to have more 57-59 Fords there!
That is another
very big dream.
we went to Beaver Springs 10 years back when there were the jalopy races held there. A very wonderful track.... but rain killed the event.I have heard and seen online the event and very much would like to attend .... and from my present location its about a 8 hour haul.I have no issues in driving that distance to go...I will keep my eye open for the dates for 2024 as well.
I really want to attend the Dawsonville Moonshine festival.... that is another show on my list.. but Dawsonville Georgia is a long haul....
And now I plan to hit the second car over the winter... doesn't need very much, brakes bled and adjusted..... engine fired and set up. And of course some kind of interior with the glass.... All the hard stuff is done.... kinda...
I will post progress on the other thread that is likely buried about 5 pages back.
ha ha
(https://i.imgur.com/ZbRQ2NG.jpg)