The Raunch Wagon has been my daily driver for four years. It has been a very complete 'survivor' with the 'keep it running' philosophy...ain't broke don't fix it. This winter's maintenance pick list of new door glass, new outer rockers, add power steering, cam and tri-power and fix a couple of leaks has just blown up! I pulled the engine and trans for simple rear main R&R, R&R all the freeze plugs, spruce up the engine compartment and fix a minor transmission leak. As prep for engine removal, I drained the oil. I have always removed the drain plug slowly to check for coolant in the oil. Pooo, a teaspoon of coolant came out! So, engine tear down reveals cracked heads...and they were the good ones!
I've always wanted more power and overdrive. I've shopped all the overdrive options. So out with the 292 and FordOMatic and in with 351W and AOD. I just traded three Y-Block cores for '87 351W carbureted with AOD. I ordered Moroso front sump oil pan with the dipstick included and '63 Galaxie 289 mounts. Today starts the engine clean up and fitment testing.
Disco ball in the garage!? Man, you farmers sure party in the winter. lol. You'll have the wagon back on the road in no time, Gary.....unless of course,......
Long cold winters......nothing to do after the milking is done, gutters cleaned, and cows fed.....go to town (usually a bar) for coffee and talks with other farmers. Most bars in the Midwestern area were called "supper clubs" and served full restaurant style meals. Not at all uncommon to see a "supper club" at an intersection in the middle of nowhere. My home town in WI (population of 972 in 1965) had five bars, four of which are still thriving.
Bottom line, we partied in the winter, bowled, curled, and ate out regularly.
One sweet daily driver wagon !!!!!
I'd drive it out and have a ball, whether there was a club or not :003:
a little sad to hear that the Y block is history, I am just getting in the mood for them lately. out of 6 heads I had for the other engine, 4 were cracked between valve seats.....found another good pair of 113 replacements. I'll be careful to doing the slow drain plug removal on the Country sedans 292.
there is nothing better than SBF for daily driving though. Hope it'll be back on the road by spring.
Cool !!! One day if I ever get done with my Comet I will finally get started on my Ranch Wagon.
For whatever reason I seem to be growing fond of Y-blocks. I have only owned one and it was owned other family members since new and never rebuilt.
NO problem! I have one 312 left in my stash. I would consider trading for your FE.
Nothing sounds like a Y-Block!
Ron.
Gary..........P.M. sent to you today.
Love it
finally...set the engine in last night. Transmission in this morning. Cross member and drive shaft a few minutes ago.
Nothing for Nothing Gary....but I LOVE your fender covers!!!....... and yes.. the wagon is Bitch'in!
Great idea on the tranny hoist. Looking good, Gary.
Raunch Wagon 1st run...1st attempt with video
https://www.facebook.com/gary.sturtevant.1/videos/vb.100001490791107/1443032762423070/?type=2&theater¬if_t=video_processed¬if_id=1494800827050137
https://www.facebook.com/gary.sturtevant.1/videos/vb.100001490791107/1443041909088822/?type=2&theater¬if_t=video_processed¬if_id=1494801370273683
Gary, YouTube for those of us that don't face book? See, I'm stuck in the 60s with this tech stuff. I don't text, tweet, or twerk....looking good!
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2017-05-15 07:04
Gary, YouTube for those of us that don't face book? See, I'm stuck in the 60s with this tech stuff. I don't text, tweet, or twerk....looking good!
Me too.
easier said than done...quite the learning curve
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjclNecO72g
https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=k3BWHhTEpQI
Looking good Gary!...vids worked well on U-Boob.
Thanks so much Gary......
Alignment day!!!
Good for you! I can't even get close to that caster with these damn Granada spindles :005:
If I remember correctly, Jim, my alignment guy was able to get mine to just over 2 (also Granada spindles),which should have increased a tad when I dropped the back end.
Nice job,Gary. At first I was confusing your '57's....thought this was the sedan. Guess I needed to pay more attention to the thread title and the sheen on the paint, lol.
I have no proof but I think Granada 'style' spindles differ from model to model. The Granada spindles on the Custom had similar alignment limitations as the spindles on the Wagon. The Custom spindles were from a Granada and the Wagon spindles were from a '71 Ranchero. I modified the Custom frame to make more header clearance, add anti-dive geometry, add caster adjustment and camber adjustment. The Wagon alignment was barely satisfactory. This past winter, the Wagon front end was completely dismantled looking for wear, damage and installing power steering. I also installed custom upper control arms. The AOD upgrade required a three gear selection shifter so I installed '64 Galaxie idler arm, drag link, valve, cylinder, pitman arm, steering box, column, and steering wheel. I didn't take a picture of the camber. I adjusted left camber to -1/8 and right -1/4. The 1/8 difference is for road crown. I also added an Addco sway bar. Looking forward to the next drive. The AOD was not as I wanted it so it is down for adjustments. Next drive not soon enough...its summer!
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2017-06-03 23:20
If I remember correctly, Jim, my alignment guy was able to get mine to just over 2 (also Granada spindles),which should have increased a tad when I dropped the back end.
Nice job,Gary. At first I was confusing your '57's....thought this was the sedan. Guess I needed to pay more attention to the thread title and the sheen on the paint, lol.
If I remember correctly Lynn had the same issue as mine. I think he was going to go back to the stock spindles and a disc kit. My spindles were already on the car when I got it so I can't say for sure what year/model and just going by what the last owner told me, he just said they were Granada but he had the work done at a shop, he's no mechanic and not much car knowledge to speak of.
It's just a little thing but something everyone can do. When installing upper control arm bushings, press the rear bushing flange flush. Most aftermarket upper control arm bushings do NOT have the bumps/stops. Press the front bushing to correct control arm shaft end play. Even if the replacement bushings have the bumps/detents, continue to press pass them. The entire upper control arm will be moved 1/4" +/- toward the rear of the vehicle yielding more positive caster. A very little yield but very little effort to get a little more positive caster. The newer upper control arms (with screw-in type bushings) have been substituted with the shaft adjusted as far forward as possible to get more positive caster.
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2017-06-04 15:41
If I remember correctly Lynn had the same issue as mine. I think he was going to go back to the stock spindles and a disc kit. My spindles were already on the car when I got it so I can't say for sure what year/model and just going by what the last owner told me, he just said they were Granada but he had the work done at a shop, he's no mechanic and not much car knowledge to speak of.
You are correct sir, I ditched the spindle/disc set up from a Gran Torino (as best as I could determine) for stock spindles and a Wilwood kit. I managed to eek out 3 degrees of caster with 59 control arms.
http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=6439.0
Quote from: lalessi1 on 2017-06-05 08:50
You are correct sir, I ditched the spindle/disc set up from a Gran Torino (as best as I could determine) for stock spindles and a Wilwood kit. I managed to eek out 3 degrees of caster with 59 control arms.
http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=6439.0
Lynn, I wish I had thought about it at the time when you made the change but I would have liked to know what the difference was of the included angle, stock vs the Torino vs Granada?
Very cool!
Just sent you a friend request on the Facebook.
Rob Haerr
I tried to note the difference but it was very hard to tell. I think I posted a side by side picture somewhere on the forum but I don't know for sure. Measuring any difference was outside my tool/skill box...
Rob, if that friend request was for me, I have a "page" at the direction of a former employer but I have never used it and I don't even know how to access it.
Quote from: lalessi1 on 2017-06-06 18:53
I tried to note the difference but it was very hard to tell. I think I posted a side by side picture somewhere on the forum but I don't know for sure. Measuring any difference was outside my tool/skill box...
Thanks Lynn, I was hoping if anyone had the skill it would have been you. I didn't have a stock spindle to compare to. I wonder if anyone has ever compared the two?.
I compared OEM spindle with Granada spindle but only for spindle difference. I mounted an extra lower control arm with each spindle to find Granada lowered the vehicle height by an inch. I did no other measurements.
While I was messing with spindles, I had a set of big Ford Lincoln Mercury 12" rotors. The big rotors fit the spindles as well as the caliper supports making for OEM 12" brakes. I did not complete the conversion because I was pleased with the Granada disc setup.
I would think that a spindle difference wouldn't affect caster. caster is all about location of ball joints and they are affixed to the A arms/trailing arms. so all that affects caster is moving upper A arms in 57 Fords, as Gary stated before.
camber is a different thing with built in inclination angle.
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2017-06-07 07:18
Thanks Lynn, I was hoping if anyone had the skill it would have been you. I didn't have a stock spindle to compare to. I wonder if anyone has ever compared the two?.
I can take pics of a stock spindle beside a 70 Torino spindle if anyone's interested. Iv'e got 1969 Torino/ Mustang spindles in mine and I don't notice any difference in handling, stopping, bump steer from the originals. Maybe i'm more tolerant of ill handling cars to start with. :003:
Quote from: rmk57 on 2017-06-07 14:19
I can take pics of a stock spindle beside a 70 Torino spindle if anyone's interested. Iv'e got 1969 Torino/ Mustang spindles in mine and I don't notice any difference in handling, stopping, bump steer from the originals. Maybe i'm more tolerant of ill handling cars to start with. :003:
Thank you for the offer but a picture wouldn't really help, any difference would be small and hard to measure..
Only noticeable thing I could see is the spindle pin on the Torino sits about 3/4 to 1 inch higher which would lower your car the same amount and the lower ball joint
on the Torino is smaller.
just love new glass....
new transmission cooler...
'64 steering column...
winged goddess of speed
Winter upgrade list: weld leaking oil pan, better fitting headers, new alternator, re-torque heads, adjust valves, replace valve covers, install hydraulic brake booster, change gear ratio to 3.89, add TractionLoc, rear disc brake conversion, traction bars....
PICs:
building a 9"
preping rusty Explorer rear disc brakes
shop upgrade: finally moved and setup media blast cabinet and dust collector
Explorer rear disc brakes installed. New 3.89 gears and rebuilt TractionLok installed.
All looking good Gary. Things sure go fast when ya know what you're doin'!
Quote from: gasman826 on 2018-01-14 15:23
Explorer rear disc brakes installed. New 3.89 gears and rebuilt TractionLok installed.
Gary,very nice indeed. I'm using the same Explorer rear brakes on my Ranchero and I'd like you to confirm a couple of things........the photo is the Passenger side, and the the parking brake cable exits the backing plate at the TOP of the plate. Is that correct?
Thanks
John
Gary, I've answered my own questions when I saw the other photos you posted on the Explorer Rear brake set up on another post.
Thanks.
My shorty, stainless headers got changed out for: Hedman 88658 Elite Ultra-Duty HTC Coated Shorty Headers. These fit very well. The stainless headers were heavily modified to make them fit. They over heated the steering box and a couple of the plugs were a pain to get started. The Hedmans fit closer to the block and have more steering box clearance. I wanted ceramic coating for heat and didn't want to coat the stainless ones. Anyway, the Hedman headers use the same real estate as the transmission shift rod. So I just finished a shift equalizer linkage (PIC). Works great and will isolate the transmission from the steering column (at rough idle, the shift lever at the top of the steering column would rattle).
Also finished up the Traction Master knockoffs (PIC).
Left door restoration begins. In keeping with the theme of the Raunch Wagon (fix only what keeps me from driving it), I violated that theme with a total rebuild of the left door. The door only needed new glass but why not replace the channels, anti-rattles, rehab the locks, new outer door handles, replace the door latch, service the window regulator, new vent window and gasket, and start off right with new paint. While working on the door, I pulled the NOS rockers out of storage and well...
just finished hanging a fresh set of doors. I was impressed that the fitment issues with the original doors carried over to the backup set of doors. Since both sets of doors have the same issues, it must be the car. My Raunch Wagon goal is just to stabilize and preserve for the next owner. This winter's project list included rebuilding the doors with new glass, division bar, channel, anti-rattles, outer door handles, seals/weather strips, and service the locks, latches, and window actuators...and some paint. The left outer rocker was replaced but the right side is moved to next winter's project list. All adjustments are maxed out to get the doors just close to satisfaction. The doors are functional for this summer but will be revisited when the fenders are removed. Then, the doors hinges can be reworked (if necessary) to get the required adjustment range and the fenders adjusted to the doors. Somewhere in a galaxy far, far away, some alien hacked the lower fenders into place by welding the fender to the 'A' pillar rather than repair the lower fender to rocker mount. So proper door mounting will be another winter's pick list. Winter is past and it's time to cruise. That's a little tough to take today as I look out the window at this Spring winter-like ice storm. The wagon sits in the driveway encapsulated in 1/2" of ice and 6" icicles hanging from the bumpers!
Just wanted to say looks real nice, enjoy watching the progress.
Quote from: gasman826 on 2018-02-21 14:21
...The door only needed new glass but why not replace the channels, anti-rattles, rehab the locks, new outer door handles, replace the door latch, service the window regulator, new vent window and gasket, and start off right with new paint.
Where did you get the parts used in this refresh? This will be in my sedan's future as well, as finances permit.
Thanks Glen.
Parts? The Custom was all Steele Rubber except for the Top CatWhiskers and original restored outside door handles. The wagon was all Steele Rubber except for the Top CatWhiskers, universal division channel, Carpenter seal, and Carpenter outer door handles. I could see no difference between the DC door seal and the SR door seal (DC seal a little cheaper). There is very little price difference between restoring outer door handles and DC door handles. Six months + wait time for handle restoration...DC handles made in China(left side DC handle required trimming for the button). The SR division channels are NOT the right size. If I remember correctly, the SR division channels are 9/16" deep which leaves the chrome beading a little proud. This doesn't hurt the function and performance...just an anal thing for me. Both the division and top/rear channel were glued in using JB Weld. Good, bad, wrong...it is what I used and will continue to use unless something better comes along. On the division bar, I used very small screws with oval heads and lock nuts. If I were do another set, I would likely use rivets at least on the top hole. The nut does interfer with the vent window gasket a little (seems to seal OK with no wind whistle). I used Vaseline on the door seals to help with break-in.
Used parts: The wagon is my summer driver. To get the most done in the winter, I have a stock of used parts that I call on from time to time. This saves winter build time by not having to locate worn, damaged, or rusted parts. I lay out a full set of parts, clean, lube, paint, powder coat, and rebuild sub-assemblies before tear-down. The glass is cut locally using old as pattern. I used rear fordor latches on the front doors. Most (not all) rear door latches are much tighter than the front door latches. I have found many differences in just the inside of the doors. Some window actuators and linkages are plated and others painted but will interchange. Another oddity is that I have found two different pin types on the top of vent windows. Some are straight pins and others have a groove cut in them. Most of the groove types had the tip broken. Both styles fit the frame but the retainer is different. For the first timers, the outside door lock retainer must be pushed toward the outside of the door as it is pried toward the rear. The clip does NOT come out. Just move it enough to release the lock assembly. Pulling the clip all the way out will ruin it! There is no gasket for the lock...just the handle.
Not bragging, just saying I've gotten comfortable with the inside of a Custom door. Now, if I had just taken pictures, I should write a Tech page.
Sway bars:
- Front is an ADDCO with increase in diameter and poly bushings
- The rear is an ADDCO for '89 Crown Vic.
Sticks to the road real good!
rear sway bar pics
knockoff Drag Masters
refreshed center with 3.89 gear, Traction Loc, shimmed pinion and aluminum Daytona support.
hydraulic booster
doors rebuilt...ready for summer 2018
great to have it back on the road again in time, Gary ! Ford's the wagonmaker and the 57s sure are among the finest of them. wouldn't want to miss mine for a day!
You sure have a lot of improvements done to that old 57!
What's Club Clayton ?
Hometown, dive bar where I spend too many hours. Long gone.
New radiator, fans, shroud, relays, breakers, and fan controller system. It also required radiator relocation. Road test tomorrow.
Gary, can you please tell me the source of the radiator, fans and shroud.
Thanks
John
radiator
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Griffin-Thermal-Products-EXACT-FIT-RADIATOR-7-70101/192511149372?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
fans
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cooling-Components-18-H-X-28-W-Dual-2-Speed-Electric-Fan-Shroud-Combo-CCI-1226/331520654491?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
fan controller
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dakota-Digital-Programmable-Dual-Fan-Controller-PAC-2750/332386318563?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Thanks Gary!
Hey Gary how did the road test go? I have the same radiator and I moved it forward 2". I am using a single Derale electric puller fan/shroud and it works fine at slow speeds. My issue is my car will start to overheat on the interstate especially if I am behind an eighteen wheeler. Derale agreed that air flow is the issue so they suggested I cut openings in the shroud with rubber flaps over them. I cut the holes yesterday and put the flaps on they provided. Not a fan of the solution... I do like the dual fan setup you are using. I just finished my A/C install, not charged as of now.
Run it over 100 miles yesterday with 95º tempertures...mostly state highways with couple of small towns. The temp gauge run at 5/8 most of the time which translates to 175º. In a small town with 5-6 stop lights, temp run up as high as 205º (low fan on temperature) and shut off in less than 30 seconds at 200º. Both fans have not run other than testing mode. This morning (only 86º),I made a parts run to another little town. 25 mile round trip and the fans never run. I'm sure you know this but it is worth repeating. My low fan does not kick on (205º) until the needle is just off the normal range on the gauge. In 1957, 205º would have been an issue, today not so much. I've confirmed actual engine temperature with thermometer in the coolant as well as with the Dakota Digital fan controller.
Two 12" fans with shroud (no flaps, openings, sealed tight to the radiator) equals a single, 24" fan with shroud (how big is your fan and what amp is your relay?) as far as square inches of shroud opening for free air flow. I see no issue with you fan doing its job but with free flowing air at highway speed. Your condenser slows the air flow and I don't have a condenser yet. Your outside temps are higher than Michigan. Your engine has more HP so it might need a smig more cooling. The only physical difference in out two cars is that I formerly had another electric fan set up as a pusher. A 20" pusher fan with shroud will NOT fit in front of a '57 radiator without customizing the gravel guard. SPOILER ALERT!!! Purists should STOP reading. I cut a chunk out of the gravel guard and I have not replaced it with my spare gravel guard (and probably won't). Could there be more free air flow at highway speeds...maybe.
Thanks for the response! My fan is 17", 2400 CFM. It is a two speed but I am only using it at max speed. I have a mechanical 2 5/8 SW gauge, the fan kicks in at 140 degrees, drawing 23.5 amps. I have always compared fans by area not by diameter?? (2) 12's would be the same as a 17" would they not?? Are your fans reversible? I bought mine because of the depth...3". Yours looks like a good fit. My condenser was not on the car when I noticed the issue. Gravel guard holes... maybe a plan...
I gathered from your PP that your fan is doing the job when it runs but on at 140º means it runs all the time. Cooling Components does not rate by CFMs or will they even talk about CFMs. I was quite frustrated with no way to compare performance with other fan manufacturers. Cooling Components said their systems would cool or money back OR they would build one that would. Big talk but that's what they said. As we all know: power costs money, power takes fuel, so fan output can be measured by the power consumed. Minimum relay is 70 amp with minimum 40 amp breaker per fan. These fans are fairly quiet but are really moving air.
Yes, two 12" fans have about the same area as a 17" fan...226+ sq in. Just a thought, if your fan is running all the time, is it acting as a brake. A torque converter spins so fast and a liquid becomes a solid. The fan spins so fast and will NOT allow more air through it than it can pull. Sorry half baked with no science to back it up...before you cut up your gravel guard, adjust the fan control on to 200º. With 16# cap and coolant, you're good to 220+. If it doesn't work, kick the fan on and stay away from them trucks!
Do I remember correct that you have a HP water pump. I don't remember the thermostat open point.
I have given this a lot of thought over a few beers... It seems to me the fan will spin under no power as it is moves through air. It potentially can generate voltage as a result, at any rate the power required to spin it will be reduced (I think). I did a couple of simple calcs... At 60 MPH about 14,800 cubic feet of air will pass through a rectangle 22.5" x 18" each minute. This assumes no pressure changes which is absolutely not the case with air passing through a radiator but it is an interesting observation. My fan pulls 2400 CFM though the same rectangle which corresponds to a speed of only about 10 MPH, in other words 2400 CFM will pass through the same rectangle at 10 MPH with no fan at all! You may be correct that the fan should be set at close to the thermostat temperature as it may not be required as often as I thought. I don't think the fan blocks the flow of air because air is compressible but the shroud is definitely restrictive. I have had some overheating issues and if I could I would run the engine at 160 degrees but I don't think that is very achievable
I really appreciate the conversation, I would have bought the same set up you are using had I known about it and in fact I may still do it.
Cooling Components has this "hot" rod stuff figured out. They have little flaps to let "driving air" flow freely, when stopped or moving really slow their natural rest position and the pull of the fan keeps them closed so all the air the fan moves goes through the radiator. I feel, and run, my fan setting 10 above the t-stat. Keeps a load off the alternator and works very well to control engine temperature. The fan should always be controlled with a relay.
Fans should also be controlled with a "trinary" switch on the A/C line. No need to run the fan when going down the road with the A/C on. The trinary switch turns on the fan if the head pressure starts to rise.
Yup, their stuff is pricey but it is well worth the expense, they also have a very good staff to assist with any issues.
Winter: so back to working on the Raunch Wagon. A few months ago, there was some discussion under General Discussion about bearing type idler arms. The bearing replacement kit is available and I just finished installing it. When I installed the '64 Galaxie power steering linkage, valve, steering box, and column, the idler arm got a new, rubber bushing kit. The rubber was too hard and continue to 'push' after turns were completed (right or left). The new bearing kit has nearly no resistance and definitely no memory.
more PICs
The Raunch Wagon is getting prepped for spring and Power Tour. With A/C on the to-do list, the interior is gutted for sealing and insulation. Since insulation is expensive and lots of work, new floor pans are going in. Being tired of dust, dirt and rust, I worked on the Vintage Air cable converters for the HVAC controls. The controls are now by wire.
Very Nice !
I see you swapped out the vacuum brake booster for Hydraulic. Was vacuum ineffective? I'm wondering if I would have room for my clutch master cylinder?
Yes to all questions. I swapped a cheap, dual diaphragm booster for a hydraulic booster. The performance of the cheap booster was fine for day to day normal driving but under high speed braking it would run out of boost. So when I upgraded to rear disc, I swapped to the hydraulic booster. I also cammed up the engine and had little or no idle vacuum. The '57 Custom is also hydraulic boosted and has hydraulic clutch.
PIC is the Custom. The OEM master worked fine but has been changed to Wilwood for cosmetic reasons.
Thanks for the information. I don't have any experience with hydro-boost systems. I'll look around, any advice as to what to look for other than flange size?
Les, I think one of Gary's cars has a 70's(?) Lincoln hydroboost, but most guys are using a late model Mustang setup. Mine is off an '02 Mustang Cobra. I've been told anything older than an '01 Mustang has an internal bore that is too small on the master. Most Mustangs don't have the hydroboost, only the GTs and Cobras. Pretty straightforward on the mounting. If I remember 2 of the '57 master cylinder mounting studs are cut off the firewall, the center hole enlarged, or elongated, and the remaining 2 mounting holes are drilled and bolted. I cut and welded on a an adjustable connecting rod to hook it up to the oem 57 brake pedal, but in hindsight I would have changed the mounting position on the brake pedal as Canadian Ranchero did. Not sure what Gary/Gasman did there.
One '57 has '75 Lincoln booster and the other has '97 Mustang GT booster. The Lincoln bolt pattern was a bolt in. The Mustang had an angled mount. The boosters are universal with an adopter plate. The Mustang booster adapter was pitched and I made one out of 1/4" flat steel. I cut the pedal rod, cut threads and screwed on a hiems joint to bolt to the OEM brake pedal.
PIC 1: adapter plate using OEM bolts in OEM place on top and studs in the adapter plate in the bottom OEM holes
PIC 2: hiems joint attached to the brake pedal
Lincoln booster was easier and cheaper due to SAE hose fittings. Mustang is metric...easier if using metric PS pump and steering gear.
My booster had a pushrod with an eyebolt type end, so I'm wondering if your's did as well and if you cut it off and threaded the end to accept the heims joint. I tried doing that but was not successful as I couldn't hold the rod tight enough with vise grips to keep it from turning while I was trying to run a die down over it. Is there a better way? Is that pushrod removable somehow without disassembling the complete booster?
GREAT INFO! I saw the Mustang GT booster mentioned in another thread but this gives more options.
The interior is gutted right now to insulate for A/C(including pedal support and booster). I'll take more pictures.
Floors repaired, one outer rocker, AC modifications, and a couple coats of Lizard Skin ceramic.
Does Lizard Skin do away with the need to use products like Dyna-Mat? I see they have ceramic coating and sound deadner, and you can apply one over the other. Will you still use a fire wall covering?
Gary is that "real" lizard skin or home made?
I ask because there was an article a few years ago on a hot rod site that showed how to make your own.
I have two cars with Lizard Skin ceramic for thermal break sprayed on both sides of the floors and firewall. I have not yet used sound spray. One interior was completely coated with DynaMat. I did not like the DynaMat product because it was black. I like keeping interior lightly colored because it is so much easier to see. Lizard Skin ceramic comes in two colors. I use white (PIC) for interior and I will spray the black version on the underside and firewall. Lizard Skin is easier to install, thinner, much cheaper and much lighter than the butyl materials. As of yet, Lizard Skin sound is not offered in white so I will be lining the interior with Z-Mat (Eastwood). Z-Mat is offered with bright foil backing.
The floors and firewall will be covered on both sides with Lizard Skin and Z-Mat on the interior but no OEM, firewall pad.
I use the trademark Lizard Skin stuff. It seems expensive but is much cheaper than DynaMat or Z-Mat and much lighter. I'm sure there are other products...I just have no experience with them.
PIC 1 = the Custom with black Lizard Skin ceramic, top coated with white primer, and covered with black foil DynaMat (the black just sucks the light right up)
PIC 2 = another PIC with black Lizard Skin covered with white primer(all covered later with DynaMat)
PIC 3 = more DynaMat coverage
Since the Raunch Wagon is a 'work in progress' and will never be a frame-off rebuild, I have to draw a line and stop at some point if for no other reason than winter is only so long and I have to get everything back together for spring. I will never do another frame-off build for many reasons but one is that I won't live that long. Since the Custom is a frame-off and has been for ten years and still counting, I bought the Raunch Wagon as a driver and a mule to use up all the spare '57 parts. The goal for the wagon is for me to be a steward and keep it for the next generation. Every winter I select mini projects that I pick from a list that I can complete by spring. My intention is to drive all summer without opening the hood.
That being said, the Custom had every seam (new and old) rust treated and sealed. Using new car materials, all crevices and pillars were filled with pillar foam for sound, temperature, and strength. Since the wagon is a partial project, the roof seams were not rust treated and sealed. There will be condensation to be drained and future rust repair so it is not time for pillar foam.
PIC = Custom with Lizard Skin ceramic interior and exterior. The interior is top coated with white primer and the exterior is top coated with tintable bed liner.
Very interesting, thank you for the info. I need to ask, is pillar foam some sort of high expansion foam? Is it different than the stuff we use in the house?
The manufacturers use a high density, non-water absorbing foam to strengthen and insulate hollow channels in the body such as the pillars but also in doors and roof bows. The 3M or SEM versions are denser and much more expensive than Great Stuff at Lowes.
I just spent the afternoon in the shop. It reminded me of a couple of things I had forgotten. Cutting and sealing seams on butyl sheets is slow, tedious, hard work. I should have sprayed the Lizard Skin sound insulation. The second thing is that nothing sticks well to the Lizard Skin's textured surface which includes butyl.
X-Mat (Eastwood) is in. Tack strips on the 'A' pillar. AC box with plumbing mounded and wired. Black Lizard Skin ceramic on the bottom.
As promised, a couple PICs of tack strip.
fresh coats of Lizard Skin on the bottom
Looking great Gary. In retrospect, I wish I had done the foil covered insulation up as high as you did. Try a heat gun on that self stick stuff, seems to add a ton of adhesion power. That may vary by brand though, and a coat of Bulldog adhesion promoter would help as well. On the underside of my car, I had done the por-15 over phosphate treated bare metal. I then hit it with the adhesion promoter before I sprayed 2 or 3 coats of paintable water based undercoating. After 3 years, I haven't seen anywhere on the underside where the undercoating is coming off, and you know how hard it is to get anything to stick to por-15.
Dash in.
AC plumbed. 30 inches vacuum.
The top on the engine hooked up and fluids topped.
looking great. Other than carpet and seats, what's left before you can start bug collecting?
bugs...it's still 25 degrees here. The pick list still seems too long.
rollin' again!!
Quote from: gasman826 on 2019-05-04 08:13
rollin' again!!
(http://57fordsforever.com/smf/Smileys/default/thumbsup.gif) Lookin' good!
Awesome Gary!!!!!!!!!!
That ride must have felt great! Congrats.
"Club Clayton"?
yeah !!!
loving the 'driver quality' paint scheme. :003:
As Jay usually says, there needs to be a 'few' spots of primer on every car....
Great! burn up some hiway :burnout:
Club Clayton...Clayton Mob speak for the Clayton Tavern...a small village, dive bar where I spent way too much time. It is a ghost now...some good times!
The old saying 'Ain't broke, don't fix it'. Brakes and steering were working just fine. Since the engine was out and freshened, now was the time to replace the PS pump and hydraulic booster. Besides they both were OEMs with nearly 120k miles on them. The reman'ed pump barely lasted 100 miles before complete failure...no power steering or brakes. Now the entire systems is polluted with burnt oil and metal shavings. So PS components are stripped from the car and being washed in the parts cleaner. I'm tossing the booster and going to manual brakes. Just another example of replacement parts quality.
Yikes...hope I don't have that problem with the remanufactured pump I just put on my replacement engine...........like you reasoned, it was a good time to replace it.
NAPA gave me a new pump with no issues. Bled the PS system. Pump is quiet...a good sign. I have never went from power brakes to manual brakes. I read the entire Wilwood site and found all kinds of formulas for this and that but no chart or recommendations. Their manual, dual master cylinders come in three piston bore sizes...7/8, 15/16 and 1". 7/8" creates the most pressure with the least leg effort but also moves the least amount of fluid. The 1" moves the most fluid but leg effort will be higher. Pedal ratio is critical to get the least leg effort but must cycle the piston stop to stop...and do it in 1.1" of travel. The bottom line is to buy master cylinders until you get acceptable brake performance. I started with a 7/8" piston MC...didn't move enough fluid so the pedal was right to the floor. Oh, you do need external residual check valves! So...tossed the 7/8" MC for a 15/16" MC. Firm pedal at about half stroke but more leg effort than I'm use to. It is working now but all my other cars have some form of power brake and I'm not going to be satisfied until the leg effort is similar in all vehicles.
A guy to talk to about brakes is Dennis, who owns CSRP: http://discbrakeswap.com/
I have known him for years and he is very knowledgeable and can help you get the right stuff together. He sells several master cylinders for different applications.
Thanks. CSRP has been a resource for Granada style brake replacement parts.
Did you make the Power Tour?? I joined up with it to Martinsville and Bristol in my 2 Dr wagon--maiden voyage--few carb issues and I learned all about ballast resistors. But hey it was fun and car did pretty well.
part of the 2019 Long Haul Gang. We spent more time on the road than at the venues. It is really hard to pick out one car when there are so many. We're still reviewing pictures and video. Parking in the grassy hills at Martinsville was crazy. It was a unique view and we could see many cars. At Bristol, we just got parked before it started to rain so we made a run for it to get under the stands. So we missed the laps on the track. Sorry I missed you.
PIC--Just one of the many hotel parking lots. Look really close...most of HRPT participants.
Yeah Martinsville spectator parking was a mess--I was not looking forward to working the clutch with my too high gear thru that LONG line--I lucked out -as I got up to the road out the traffic cops sent us all out the entrance road which probably saved us 45-60 minutes!!!-My brother and I just tagged along as spectators for those 2 legs. Probably try it again soon.
It's looking good . l know all about waiting in a line with standard shift and highway gears.
That arial view is awsome.
That PIC is from our hotel room Belterra Casino, Florence, IN across the river from Kentucky Speedway.
Raunch Wagon survived summer of 2019. With the new year comes a long pick list of winter maintenance. There is nothing exciting on this years list. There are no upgrades just change the oils and filters, change the slip yoke, fix broken seat frame, install kick panels, new speakers, and get this done quickly because the Custom will be getting out of upholstery jail. It is also hard to focus with the 427 SO coming home from the engine builder. But, I still need time to hunt SOHC parts. I've been considering starting another project for the 427 wedge. Setting in the shop the other day, it came to me like a flash to dump the Windsor motor and put the side oiler in the Raunch Wagon!
PIC 1- Raunch Wagon
PIC 2- new slip
PIC 3- 6 groove serpentine to 8 groove
PIC 4- 427 side oiler
That air filter should help it breath, is that a custom or just double stacked?
The correct filter isn't readily available. These Motorcraft filters (2) are in stock and cheap. I'll find the right size after I know the hood clearance.
Gary I like the way you think. That 427 n our wagon will make a great sleeper. Take care, Alvin
Quote from: gasman826 on 2020-01-15 07:03
The correct filter isn't readily available. These Motorcraft filters (2) are in stock and cheap. I'll find the right size after I know the hood clearance.
Not the correct filters? From the pic they do look like they are correct, so what's the deal? Maybe you mean they are not correct because you want a single tall filter.
Are they Motorcraft FA-48 filters? I stocked up on those years ago since the fit my Roadster's 1963 three deuce 406.
Motorcraft 67625YH which has the similar dimensions as the FA-48. I didn't think the filter was tall enough on my first 427 back in the early '70s. The FA-48 was used on both 3x2 and 2x4 setups. With 462ci, 550hp, and 650cfm carburators, the single filter started looking even shorter.
Quote from: gasman826 on 2020-01-16 17:08
Motorcraft 67625YH which has the similar dimensions as the FA-48. ...
You're saying that the filters in the pic are Motorcraft 67625YHs? Did a search & they seemed hard to find. Never found their dimensions.
Way back when I stocked up on the FA-48s I was afraid that they might disappear from the stores. I think I'm set for life with those. :003:
When I looked for FA-48 filters, they were few and pricey. I found several 67625YH filters under 18 bucks. Now it's reversed! Few 67625YH and several FA-48. I just ordered FA-48 and will compare the difference.
Just got the FA-48 filters. They are exactly like the 6725YH filters. When I was matching them up, the 6725YH filters had Motorcraft FA-48 stamped on them.
Raunch Wagon leaves for the last time. Bye.
Uh...as in sold? This is news or did I miss something...?
Quote from: mustang6984 on 2020-12-08 15:33
Uh...as in sold? This is news or did I miss something...?
It was in the for sale section back in October
Ah...probably a good thing I didn't see it then...I have enough cars for now...LOL!!! Sorry it went down the road though. Seems that has been a part of his DNA.
It's heading for California to be loaded in sea box for the trip to New Zealand. This is my first international sale. The shipper also acted as agent for the sale by handling the wire transfer, paper work and scheduling the shipping. Everything went fine. It is just really slow.
Well that's good I suppose...you won't ever see it again and have remorse..
Dark thirty but you can't help but pick out the unmistakable Ford taillights.
Gary, Hugh is right you will probably have a little remorse, I did after I sold my T-Birds, but it didn't last to long. I plan to sell my two converts this next spring, it's just time to let someone else have some fun and take care of them.
Perhaps the new owner will join this forum......
Now that would be a good deal. Perhaps we should make that a condition of future purchases...<tongue-in-cheek>.
Raunch Wagon floating into harbor in New Zealand. Its in the sea box up front.
:'(
I remember it being sold....don't remember it being to a New Zealander. Anything to do with the few members on the forum from NZ?
Nice thing about searching for a car nowadays is the the world is at your fingertips. I got my 57 from a gentleman in Roseburg, Oregon through Craigslist. Years back you had Hemmings, local buy& sell paper, swap meets or word of mouth. There was a member from New Zealand that used to post very scenic pictures of drives he went on. Haven't heard from him in quite a while though.
If Trev (new owner) is a member, that is news to me. He does troll around "FORDS OF 1957" group on FaceBook. After listing the Raunch Wagon here for awhile, I added the listing to that FaceBook Group and within a couple weeks, Trev committed to purchase.
Add some color and trim, ditch the 'Winged Goddess of Speed' from the hood and a different car in New Zealand!
The Raunch Wagon is alive and well in New Zealand!
better PIC
Raunch Wagon wins People Choice in New Zealand!