cowl tubes and a few other bouncy parts have arrived.
the cowl tray sealer is cracked and missing in a few places, so im going to get all of that dried stuff out. Im assuming it should be replaced with seam sealer, but I don't know a lot about seam sealer, and I saw a thread that was talking about plumbers putty, and im sure I have a gallon or two of that laying around.
im planning on getting the surface rust out, if I used seam sealer, what would be the best kind to use and is there any tips as to application, as in, does it need to go on bare metal or can it go over paint, etc? (the seam sealer beads on the floor pans have been inadvertently shop vac'ed up in a few places too, so im kinda looking for an overall solution)
if I use plumbers putty in the cowl, ...can that be used on the floors? (for some reason, that just doesn't sound right)
here's the current status of the cowl area:
Seam sealer is what you want for the floors, as it hardens. After you get the cowl cleaned out, I strongly recommend brushing in lots of POR-15. That stuff is great as it takes 4 hours to dry, so it seeps in all the crevasses you can't get too. Aside from the protective qualities, I'm firmly convinced por-15 over my entire car that wasn't getting finished painted is the reason I have so little squeaks and rattles.
Inside the cowl, after the por-15, I'd use whatever is easy. Most seam sealers are in cartridges, and that won't work inside the cowl.....you need a putty you can apply with your hands. Here a non hardening would be better. You can never go wrong with the 3M stuff, but it gets expensive. Here's a cheapie you may want to look at.......Lowe's electrical department, they sell bars of the stuff used for sealing up holes where conduit goes inside a building. Is also used to seal metal roofing, and sticks to everything, and I believe is paintable as well.I used it on my house a few years ago, still in place everywhere. The stuff is like 3 or 4 dollars for a 1# (?) bar.
cool, thanks.
any seam sealer better than another?