I am attempting to strip everything from my doors before media blasting. I am having trouble removing the glass from the riser. mechanism. IIRC Channel the glass sits into is held onto the riser mechanism by a sort of c-clip. Is that correct? any special tips to remove the glass? Any suggestions for a good place to get a shop manual?
All the vendors have them, paper or disc.
Ron.
Here's a link to some pics that might help. The thread is about a '56, but if my memory serves, it's not all that different from our 57's.
Good timing..this was just a few days ago on the hamb 52-59 social club.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/will-this-manual-show-how-to-remove-door-glass.1091167/
After the glass is seperated from the riser mechanism, undo the bolts holding the vent window assembly and the glass track bolts on the door jamb. That will allow you to spread the channels so the glass can removed from the channels. After that, rotate the glass 90* and then up and out. That's for a sedan, I guess actual removal from a hardtop should be easier. Of course, you need to be careful the glass doesn't drop to the door bottom after removing the clip/roller stuff.
Thanks, Gentlemen. I will order a Shop Manual first thing Monday AM.
Rich, I keep getting an error msg when trying to go to the link you provided. I must be doing something wrong. I'll try to log onto the site and do a search.
yes the rollers are kept to the window riser arm arm with safety clips , much like the actual window cranks are mounted to the assembly with similar Omega shaped clips.
When assembling the rollers will snap onto the riser arm, but when disassembling it's better to remove the clips. they can be pried off though with a large screwdriver.
Terry, It's been years since I restored my 57 and I can remember the front windows were unkind to me. I'm sure you'll figure it out. But, if you replace the front channel to the vent window frame, (which I know you'll more than likely do), let me give you this piece of advice. When you attach the channel to the frame, use counter sunk rivets. I destroyed two windows by using round headed rivets. Even if you put felt over these rivets, that won't save them. If you can't make the surface completely flat at those rivet locations, don't even put a window back in it. There, that's my piece of advice on window replacement.
Quote from: terry_208 on 2018-01-07 00:00
Thanks, Gentlemen. I will order a Shop Manual first thing Monday AM.
Rich, I keep getting an error msg when trying to go to the link you provided. I must be doing something wrong. I'll try to log onto the site and do a search.
It works for me, anybody else having problems? Just curious, Terry, are you trying to access it on an i phone?
The divider channel kits I've used include rivets and screws. I practiced using pop rivets with no success. The pop rivets might work if a nose extension could be found. I searched several vendors looking for an extension that would fit into the bottom of the channel. I've moved to using adhesive to install all the channels and the garnish molding whiskers. I've found that most modern paint jobs are much thicker than the OEM paint. You may scoff this caution but the thickness of the paint will impact the glass to channel clearance.
There is a picture of the clip in this thread
http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=6845.msg57783#msg57783
Thanks for the replies. That's the way I remember them. My hands are too stiff and my arms are too fat to reach them easily. I'll have to try harder.
I was not able to access the link Rich provided. I don't use an I phone just the old star trek communicator, aka flip phone.
The link Lynn provided was essentially the same except his was actually for a '57!
I wonder why the link apparently only works for me.............maybe because it's a social club post and not a general Hamb post. You have to be a member to see posts in most of the social clubs.
when you take all the parts out of the door, make sure you take photos of the assemblies. Then after re-chroming send them to Jeff at Restoration Specialties with all the new soft parts for re-assembly. Best in the business. You'll thank him in the long run.
Thanks for all the tips and comments! They've really helped. I was going to ask how long it takes to disassemble the door but I found out...it takes me 2 days for a door. Hopefully, the other door will take less time.
Ray, Most of the parts inside the door look like new. My car was only used for 10 years and 62,000 miles.
Rich, I joined and registered on the H.A.M.B. I don't know what my problem is. My wife keeps telling me I need help, lots and lots of help.
great...now join the 52-59 Ford social club on the Hamb. You'll enjoy it a lot more there. Good bunch of guys and you don't have to worry about walking on eggshells.
If the first door took 2 days you'd almost bet the second would take a similar time. Well the second door actually took about an hour.
The reason for my big push is that the guy who's been doing media blasting for me is taking another job. I know that media blasting can ruin body panels almost instantly and I don't know who'll be replacing him.
Thanks to everyone for all the info provided. It helped immensely!