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#1
General Discussion / Door latching stays latched. O...
Last post by abe_lugo - Yesterday at 23:48
This developed recently. When going to open the door from the inside, the door latch does like only like a half click open and you have to pull the door in and pull the lever again in it fully open.
Does the same from the outside also, it just does like half Click open.
What Has worked for you guys for adjustment. Is it the catch Teeth on the post or some adjustment on the latching starwheel?
#2
General Discussion / Re: items required for windshi...
Last post by abe_lugo - Yesterday at 23:44
I posted my version of the directions in the past I think the best pointer is to use blue tape about 2 inches around the area outside of the trim in case you're using a sealant. This will keep things clean. Obviously clean the gutters and area real well  With soapy water and then maybe thinner.
The last pointer is to mark the center of both the trim covers use a piece of blue tape and then sharpie and the center of the windshield.  The centering of the windshield also on the glass you put blue tape on the glass and do it about an inch below or two.
Centering the windshield during the insulation helps keep from getting the gaps at the rear corners when trying to set the glass in also, I set the bottom and in the lip and pull the rope from the bottom up.
#3
General Discussion / Re: bring a trailer
Last post by 57chero - Yesterday at 19:37
I bought the adapters on ebay
#4
General Discussion / Re: items required for windshi...
Last post by terry_208 - Yesterday at 19:19
Thanks everyone. 

I knew there's not much to doing the install.  I remember doing it 60+ years ago while working in the body shop.  I'm getting old and things don't move like they used to. Also, I don't have much patience.

I found out that the $982 included the install and would be $135 cheaper as I have the seal.
#5
.Dave....you were right to not use that glass guy!! Once I had my windshield ready to install, it took my wife and I less than 1/2 hour.
You did not mention the stainless trim. I don't know about convertibles, but the Customs at least need the stainless trim installed before the glass goes in. I also started pulling the string (I used bricklayers/construction twine) at the bottom, because like you said, the weight of the glass works in your favor. Most important is making sure the glass is centered because you do not want to be slapping that glass on it's sides/ends to try and move it.

BTW, most "clear" glass does have a green tint to it. Window glass does, and even picture framing quality glass does unless you pay 10x as much for museum glass.
#6
There is a shop up the road about 35-40  miles from me...they said they'd order it and install it for me. Less than $500. I asked what if it broke, they said they'd have to order another. No problem. I asked who'd pay for it if it broke, they said they would, "of course!"
I've done a lot of business with them, family operation. I'm chicken...I'll let them do it.
#7
General Discussion / Re: Old Ford pics
Last post by CobraJoe - Yesterday at 17:08
#8
Off Topic Stuff / Re: RANDOM PICTURE THREAD
Last post by CobraJoe - Yesterday at 17:07
#9
General Discussion / Items needed for windshield in...
Last post by oldave57 - Yesterday at 15:10
I installed my own windshield on my 57 Retractable (back in 2020, so most of this is from memory since I did not think at the time to take step by step photos).  These are the items I used.

1)  Windshield (of course).  I ordered mine from Auto City Classics (very happy with their quality as well as shipping container and protection of the glass.
2) Windshield Seal.  I ordered mine from Jerry's Classic Cars (not sure if they are still in business)
3) Sealant.  I used clear silicone sealant and I know there are lots of opinions on the sealant, but I wanted something that wouldn't get too "tacky" too quickly.
4) Rope.  I ordered a 1/8" nylon rope from Amazon (probably need around 25' but I ordered 40' because that's what they had closest to what I thought I needed.  That rope worked pretty well, especially around the sharp corners at the bottom and it is strong enough to hold everything I could pull.
5)  Soapy Water (about 1/2 dishwashing soap and 1/2 water) to spray along the edge of the seal as you are going.  It doesn't matter if you get things a bit wet but it helps with the seal popping into place.  Put this mixture in an old Windex bottle.

I ordered the green tinted version.  My original windshield was also green tinted, but I had originally thought it was clear.  The tech at Auto City Classics recommended I hold a white card behind the glass and sure enough it revealed a slight green tint.

This is a 2-person job because you will need to have someone on the outside to "slap" the windshield as you are pulling on the rope.  I placed the windshield on a 6' table to install the rubber seal.  It is super important to get the seal centered on the windshield.  Once in place, I added duct tape in several places to keep the seal from moving.  I also added a mark at the top of the windshield frame (pinch weld) so I could use it to align the windshield.  It was a lot easier for my installation because I could do it with the top down so I had some access to the outside of the glass during the installation. 

The first step is to clean the pinch weld area of the windshield frame as clean as possible before applying any sealant.  You have to work the rope into the windshield seal and since I was planning to rope the glass in starting
at bottom center, I started one end of the rope there (leaving about 2' for overlap) and worked the rope into the seal while it was still on the table. 
I sat the windshield into the opening and started roping in from the bottom of the glass.  The 57 Ford manual says to start at the top but the windshield weight seems to help push in at the bottom.  You have to keep spraying the soapy water around as best you can as you are going, particularly around the corners as you are pulling in on the rope and your helper is "slapping" in on the windshield from the outside, trying your best to keep the windshield centered.  I pulled a bit from center on each side, so I could reach the corners as close as possible at the same time. The corners at the rear are pretty difficult, but doable.  You then work your way around the upper corners and windshield top again trying to keep the rope equal on both sides so you reach the center together if that makes sense. 

It is a challenging installation but doable.  I had also gotten a quote from a local auto glass business, but I had to order all parts and had to agree that if something happened to the windshield during installation, it was "on me".  I thought if it's going to break and I have to pay for it, I might as well try myself. 

Good luck. 
Dave

#10
General Discussion / Re: items required for windshi...
Last post by Lgcustom - Yesterday at 14:31
Terry,
You'll also want some sealer to place between the glass and gasket and also in the groove in the gasket that goes to the body. Additionally, a long piece of 1/8th cord to lay into the gasket outer groove. Installation is not a complicated process, but it takes two people to lift the glass into place before pulling the cord to flip the gasket over the body flange.