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Brake light switch

Started by Wirenut, 2012-07-19 21:14

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gasman826

The pin hole is slotted enough for the brake pedal pin to move in the switch.

RICH MUISE

#16
Quote from: gasman826 on 2012-08-03 07:50
The pin hole is slotted enough for the brake pedal pin to move in the switch.
Gary...I'm trying to get on the same page here...when you say "pin hole slotted enough"....are you talking about the hole in ring end of the push rod? I'm looking at this switch trying to figure out how it would work and the only thing I can see is if the push rod was sloppy enough on the pin so that the ring portion of the push rod pushed back up against the switch when the pedal was depressed.. If that is how it works..I guess I'd need to alter something because there is harldy any slop in my pin/push rod connection.
I was also looking at this brake switch in case I decide to add cruise control down the road. I'm thinking it could easily be added to the brake pedal stop arm next to the bumper. I do not want to weld or other modification that would require the pedal/steering brace to be removed from the car.
Rich
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

RICH MUISE

The brake switch in the pic is Ron Francis. $20ish plus shipping. I found one in stock at Auto Zone for $9.
I'm going to go have a look-see if I can get this to work...I'll post a pic if I do. It also is cruise compatible, and can be used without the criuse connected.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

RICH MUISE

#18
Done...a little hasstle getting it installed..but I got it in, adjusted and checked out with a continuity meter.
Several problems I ran into: The threaded sleeve is very thin walled Chinese plastic....you know what that means...a second trip to Auto Zone for a replacement (they very nicely replaced my broken one n/c.
You will need to chase down some 1/2-20 Jam nuts. Regular 1/2-20 nuts won't give you enough adjustment space on top. You know what that means...another trip. It took a few hours of running around town to find mine.
It's so tight in there there's no room to adjust the switch while the pedal is in the car, so it'll have to be adjusted out of the car. Mine ended up working well at .525 as shown in the pic. As most of you probably know it's a real hasstle getting the spring on the pedal assembly hooked in place..so get your switch set and checked out just using the shaft thru the pedal assembly. Once the switch is set..you can do the final assembly hooking the spring in....a real pain in the butt, but (there's that butt but again) I figured out an easier way after several attempts. Pull the spring back to as close to 3 o'clock as you can get it and tie it there with a wire. Once the shaft is in place, you can  jiggle stuff around to get the wire in the hole and carefully snip and remove the holding wire. Switch is Duralast pn DR497
Or you can just do the easier switch as Gasman and rmk57 did.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe