pulling doors

[geraldchainsaw]

hi,  i'm going to paint the door jams and replace the rubber seals by myself,   any suggestions on how to pull the door?,   

[CDN.SD]

On a finished car, with a full (windows etc.) door, I would try to get some help, as they can be a handful.

I would unbolt the hinges from the door, rather than from the post, as it takes some jostling to get the hinges out of the front post.

Also, it's a good idea to mark the current bolt location, by either scribing around the heads of the SEMS, or, if they're hidden, giving each a quick shot with a spray bomb. It makes it a lot easier to re-aliagn the door when you're finished.

Hope that helps...

[JimNolan]

Jerry,
   The guy that does my body work drills a small hole in the hinges after he aligns the door hinges, trunk hinges, hood hinges, etc. That way after he takes it apart for paint he pins them in the exact location they were before. It's a very small hole also. Jim

[Ford Blue blood]

Jerry if you have the front clip off take a good hard look at leaving the doors on.  You can clean and prep all of the hinge side and the jam with a combination of "door open/door closed", this should be looked at especially if the door alignment is perfect now.  The hole is 1/8" in the door and hinge, use the shank from a 1/8" bit to align after painting if they need to come off.  Get a touch up gun, it makes the jam painting much easier.  Less worries with runs and rubs.  Check out your local paint store for foam mask.  Really great stuff.  You can "jam" a car, mask and shoot fully assembled and have no signs of tape lines and the seam cleans up with hand rubbing.
Good luck, Bill

[57chero]

When I painted my ranchero I used a floor jack with a short 2x4 about 18" long duct taped to the swivel pad to remove and reinstall the door, you roll it under the bottom of the door jack it up just enough to take the tension off, take the bolts out of the door not the jamb it will stay in place so you can grab the top door frame and roll it away from the car, worked great for me.When I replaced the weather stripping on the doors I could barely get the doors shut so with the door panels off and the strikers removed from the jamb I used a small ratchet strap I ran it through both inside door structures and sucked them in and left it for a few days.Put the strikers back on adjusted and was able to shut the doors as they should.You figure out how to do things by yourself when there is never anybody around when you need them.

[geraldchainsaw]

thanks guys,   the front clip isn't off.   i'm going to go with what Jim N suggested,   i've pinned the hood hinges that way,  and really forgot about doing it that way,   even though i forgot about the pinning,  what i was really thinking was how to support the door taking  it apart???,    i've made a support on a roller cart for working and prepping the door for the seal and painting,  and was thinking of making a support for under the door with rollers,  maybe with a little upward pressure when i take out the last screw,   and right, i should get some help,  can't always do everything by myself,      thanks again for the advice,  and reminding me of things i somethimes forget,    jerry

[shopratwoody]

Jerry,
I've always done mine like 57 Chero.
Little tricky but has always worked for me. Is this your convert?
I agree with the touch up gun also.On the other hand you can go to a auto paint store and have them put the paint in to quality
spray cans also. Maybe spend time on masking carefully and
leave doors on car. Just a thought.

[geraldchainsaw]

to everyone thats helped with what to do,     to shopratgoody, yep,  its the convertable,    as for paint and spray cans,  that won't happen,  i got a pint from PPG, or painters supply up here in Detroit  it didn't match very good,  took me a couple of days adding  white to it to finally get the right color,   so bottom line,  the doors are coming off,  after i drill and pin them for location,  the floor jack sounds good,  a little help even better,  its just going to take a little time.   thanks again for the advice,    jerry