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Stapling to metal?

Started by RICH MUISE, 2010-11-23 19:52

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RICH MUISE

Does anyone know what the factory proceedure was to execute the stapling of the various seals and the like that  were actually attached to the sheetmetal with staples? I'm mainly just curious...whatever proceedure they used is more hastle than I want to deal with. I'll figure another means of attachment. I'm talking about things like the rubber 'skirting' that goes on the inner front wheel wells near the frame.
I'm thinking they maybe used drill jigs with multi spindle drill presses ( think 50's...no n.c. equiptment). or maybe punched the holes. Either way the holes are so tiny, punch or drill breakage would  have been huge. I can't imagine they actually pierced the metal with the staples as stapling normally does in softer materials but it's the only thing that would make sense on a high production run.. ??? baffles the hell out of me. But if they didn't pierce the metal and rubber together with the staples...how did they quickly find all of those tiny holes close enough to insert the staple???   Rich
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

suede57ford

You will need to drill small holes to push the staples through.   Then use a pair of C-clamp vise-grips and squeeze them over.  You can use a small hammer and dolly as well.  Sometimes a little 3M Black Weatherstrip adhesive on the matting surfaces helps in the long run.

Use the staples in that come in most kits or get some stainless piano wire and make your own staples.

They should look pretty good when you get the hang of it, and still look like Ford did it.
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Ford Blue blood

Rich I think they had a staple gun.  The many T-Birds and 57s I have worked on had the same staples, they were folded the same and they were all hard as a rock.  I had three sets of skirts for a 65 Bird, the staples were not it the same location and the total number count was different in each.  I use an awle to punch holes for carpet screws and such in the floor boards.  It is sharpened and it only takes one quick firm blow from a body hammer to make the hole.
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
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Frankenstein57

Unless you are going for the stock application, consider a good pop rivet system with a backing washer. I tried the staples on the moldings, gave up and went to pop rivets.  Mark

RICH MUISE

all good info guys. Bill...I agree..what you were saying about different skirts having varying locations and quantities of staples would certainly indicate a staple gun...kinda amazing when you think about it. Pat...I like you're idea with the s.s. wire. A little tedius  process but that's ok. And Marks idea with the pop rivets is similar to what I was thinking originally. I was going to give the black plastic pop rivets a shot so they were less obvious.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

Ford Blue blood

Rich I use Weld Wood contact cement to place the rubber/seal and then small 1/8" pop rivits to hold them (skirt seals, window fuzzies and hood to radiator support rubber) and then paint with Rustolium semi gloss black.  The Weld Wood is much like "yellow death" weather strip adhesive, make sure it is properly located before you press it down.  I find the Weld Wood easier to use as it brushes on easily and gives you very good control with application.
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

Frankenstein57

On the dirt race cars we would stick rivets in styrofoam and paint the heads to match the car, worked well. Mark