So if you could build the perfect 292 for touring/towing what would it be?

[Roothawg]

My wife wants to venture out next summer on a cross country tour in the 57 Ford wagon.  The problem is, the 292 is tired and I worry about being stranded in Hobbs, New Mexico, trying to find Yblock parts.  We are currently seeking a vintage camper to tow as well. Most of it's life will be spent between 25-65 mph. Thinking of swapping over to the C4 at the same time.

So build your ideal touring/towing 292.  I am a Y block newbie.

Thanks

[suede57ford]

The Y-BlocksForever Forum is packed with info on how to make a great running Y Block.  Check it out.

The 292 is great engine and very reliable.  With modern machine work and all the info on how to make it reliable, you could trust one to go anywhere.

The old saying that an engine does not know what name is on the valve cover is true.   A well built Y-block can go anywhere a similar built 302 would.  The general engine will last well. The carb, trans, pulleys, brackets, and those items that determine the reliability of any engine, as long as it is properly built and maintained.

Mine has never left me stranded anywhere in the country.  As long as I stay away from drag strips it lasts well.

Carry an extra carb kit, and ignition module and you should have no issues.

By the way if it breaks in Hobbs, NM call me as I only live an hour and a half away.

[shopratwoody]

With quality parts, bone stock with a 3 spd O.D.

[Roothawg]

This may sound dumb, but I keep hearing about these 3 sp OD trannys.  We are talking about the manual trannys with the overdrive solenoid, yes?  I am VERY unfamiliar with 50's Ford technology.  

I also asked this same question on the Yblock site as well.  Information is power.

I have bought the Yblock book I have been reading. Trying to re-educate myself.

[Zapato]

Probably 15 years ago I remember reading in a magazine geared toward 49-51 fords and mercs about a lack of parts related to the overdrive solenoids and the article had a different method of wiring it to get around the problem. My memory is real fuzzy on what the issue was and am wondering as the 3 and over tranny is constantly recommended over say a C4 or C6 are there any common problems related to them. And if so what are the fixes? Not trying to send this thread on a tangent just think we all would like to be aware of any weak links in some change we are considering.

Zap-

[JimNolan]

Roothawg,
    I thought we went over this before. Might have been someone else. James Potter made a statement the other day that has everything to do with choosing a engine and drive-train combination. "Know what you want before building it." It'll save you a lot of money if you remember that. Bigger engine =   more BTU' s= bigger radiator, different transmission = different bell housing, crossmember and drive shaft.
    As far as going with a three speed overdrive, it's a great little transmission. Had one in my car. One new gear for that transmission cost me $650.00 and I searched for a month to find that one. It had to be the only new gear left in existance. To get the transmission blueprinted would have cost me $2500.00. As it was I had about a $1000 dollars in that transmission and I couldn't power shift it unless I tore the syncronizers out of it. I ended up selling it for $500 and the man that bought it knew he had to use it for just cruising, not performance.
   As far as a Y-block is concerned they are a great little engine. Do yourself a favor and pick up the phone and call the NAPA store in Hobbs, New Mexico on a Saturday afternoon and see if they have a fuel pump for a 57 Ford 292 on the shelf. Then ask them if they have one for a 302, 351, or 390. That way you'll know, you won't have to take anyones word for it.
   You'll get all kinds of advice but just remember you're the one that has to live with the decisions you make on restoring your car. God knows I've had to live with mine. And, most of everything I did to my car I changed again. Good luck, Jim

[Ford Blue blood]

That 292 will work great for a long time.  I bought a 61 Unibody F100, 3 speed, 3:73 rear grear out of Pomona and tinkered with it to get it road worthy, drove it from Rosamond, CA to Birmingham, AL.  Lost the new NAPA fuel pump out side of Flagstaff, AZ (I-40 right at Exit 178), got pushed off the road by an AZ Trooper and got another fuel pump from the AQuto Zone in Flagstaff.  That 292 never missed a beat running 55 - 60.  Now mind you I only passed three vehicles during the entire trip, but she ran like a clock the whole time.  So don't be afraid of that ol engine, she is a good one.

Now if you're worried about gas and making time...a RUG will bolt up to that 292 bell.

[Roothawg]

Yes Jim, we sort of touched on this.

That was when I was trying to decide whether to keep the 292 or put a more modern driveline in it.

I decided to keep the Y block, but now I want to know what internal parts or mods guys would make to a 292 to make it the perfect touring motor.  I was curious about what mods to make to the 292 to bring it up to modern standards etc.

As far as converting to a overdrive/manual tranny.  I'm not gonna do that. I like automatics and this car has a 2 speed in it now, so rounding up clutch pedals etc would probably not be cost effective.

[JPotter57]

Get the T5 adapter from Mummert and put a late T5 from a Mustang in it. 5 speed with deep OD is the best thing you can do to these old cars.  Plus, most of the late 5 speeds have a pretty nasty 1st gear, either 3.35 or2.95, which will make your 3.10 geared rear think it has a 3.91 or 4.10 gear.  Otherwise, a pertronix distributor module or MSD distrib to get rid of the points and its good to go.
By the way, I have begun to find, that most auto parts places dont keep anything for 302, 351, or 390 in stock either.  A lot dont even keep 350 bowtie stuff anymore....."we can have from the warehouse by 3 pm...."  Sad really.

[JimNolan]

Roothawg,
    That's a good choice. You'll keep it's original appearance too. I'd say with about $2500 in parts and machine shop you'll have a great engine. Then, if you put an AOD in it the cost of the conversion kit ( flexplate, starter and aluminum ring) will be about $850. Then, if you can find a salvage yard that will stand behind the parts he sells you ought to be able to pick up an AOD for about $250-500. Then expect about another $250-350 in crossmember and drive shaft work. Now you've got about $4100 invested in the drive train not counting the radiator and other odds and ends bought or restored. Now, this is a good thing. That's giving you a good engine and a transmission that will turn your 3.73 rear gear into a 2.49 overall gear ratio at cruising speed. To be quit honest with you, it's a bargain if you get it done for that. Good luck, Jim   PS What I said earlier about the fuel pump still goes. But think about it, if you put a new rebuilt fuel pump and carburator on the car when you rebuild everything else the chances of you having trouble would be slim to none to begin with.

[Roothawg]

The intake I have scrounged up is an ECZ-9425A.  For what I want, I am thinking this intake would suffice.  The aluminum aftermarket intakes probably would be good if I were trying to squeeze every ounce of power out of it but, alas this is a cruiser.

[jdh6fan]

I'm not sure right off but I think that intake is for the Holley teapot carbs.  If that is the case I'm thinking you might be better off using the factory 2-brl intake that you have on you car currently, or finding a 57 up 4-brl intake the ECZ-9425B.
Thanks

[Roothawg]

Eventually, this is what I would like to have.
http://www.retrotekspeed.com/products/nostalgia-efi/nostalgia-efi_.html

[Ford Blue blood]

A gentleman here in town has/had (he passed) a 312 with that system on it in the 3 2bbl configuration and loved it.  Very easy to set up and run, never missed a beat.  Car was sold, not sure where it went but it was one nice ride.  Blue/white, 58 hood, AOD, 2 dr ht.