Ranch Wagon 5.0

[hogwagon]

  We are finally back onto our wagon project as winter and life got in the way for awhile. We managed to buy and strip a 87 Ford wagon for parts and gained a fuel injected 5.0 with A.O.D. trans. The oil pan was wrong so I bought a new front sump pan with a new oil pump. Butch's Rod Shop mounts work great as we temp mounted the pan and did the first mock up check. The rear crossmember/trans mount has been the biggest hurdle so far. We bought another rear axle housing with Explorer brakes minus carrier and spring perches. This gives me a little freedom in setting up a crossmember as I can set pinion angle with the axle housing when I weld on the spring perches. I used the crossmember from the donor car by cutting the ends off and welding plates to it. I am looking for some 3/8 threaded inserts to install in the frame. The crossmember is several inch's back from the original.
  The engine sits in location well and with the stock manifolds that have oxygen sensors in them the steering linkage and box have good clearance. The head pipes that connect to the manifolds have catalytic converters on them and fit great with the crossmember from the same car so exhaust will have to be fabbed from that point on but looks like a clear shot from there.
  I have the engine and trans back out for a basic cleanup and will put in a new timing chain with the new pump and pan. The engine is on a stand and trans on a dolly. When I get it back as one unit and cleaned up we will start posting pictures as we figure out all the linkingages and wiring. We will need the most help then I am sure. The next big thing for us will be the front brakes and we plan on a Bogeson steering box so I will modify the column and Sue wants the original 3 speed shifter to operate the AOD going in.

[57AGIN]

Hogwagon:

You might want to consider using the original transmission cross member pieces that bolt into the frame and welding the new crossmember center section to the two outside pieces.  Rick Crawford did this on my 57 when we took the old T-10 out and replaced it with a TREMEC TKO 600.  The mounts for the TKO 600 was also too far back.  See attached photos.

Bob
57 AGIN

[Ford Blue blood]

The two door wagon I just got had the old 3 speed shift arm to operate the C-6 that is now in the car.  Worked well....except....no shift indicator, no detents outside of those on the transmission and worst of all no neutral saftey switch.  I would recommend serious consideration be given to getting an auto column.  I just finished that job up and it was only five hours start to finish.

[Frankenstein57]

We used a flange type nut for welding recessed into the frame, gives you plenty of surface to weld to.Not sure what they are called, its a nut with a washer or flange built in. Mark

[hogwagon]

 Spent the day scraping a few pounds of crud off the engine on a stand so had thinking time and the column has me deep in thought. I tried to find out what it is about the stock column that the wife has to have and it turns out to be the look of the old wheel and skinny column. She doesn't want a newer style look in the car. I was going to cut the shaft off the steering box and machine for double D to adapt for a rag joint but may just pull the whole deal and use it for swap material. Sue thinks the indicator is a big thing and I know I want some type of detente system.
  Thanks for the crossmember ideas I think I have that part handled short of the parking brake pieces and as I am running Explorer rear disc I will have to see how it works out.
  The nuts welded into the frame to bolt in the crossmember is a great idea and will follow the next install of the engine/trans. Have to clean up and change the oil dipstick tube to the front cover and install new timing chain that is on its way. Ordered a double roller chain as I have never had to replace one of them.

[hogwagon]

   Another day of scraping junk off of a 302. I have an ancient HP Books how to rebuild your small block ford book that has saved me a few pitfalls and states that 90 percent of oil leaks are at the ends of the intake manifold so while the engine is on the stand I pulled it. What a mess and the gaskets were embedded into the metal in the spots it didn't leak. The advertised milage was off I'm thinking but it did run pretty good in the 1987 wagon we pulled it from. I'm taking the intake to work to clean it up as even the runners are cruddy and 0ne spark plug looks too white so an injector may be clogged.
  I pulled the steering box and column out of the car and we are ordering a Bogeson unit From Summit. Do I need a rag joint or straight adaptor. The stock manual steering box didn't seem worn out and I understand the shaft out of the box goes all the way to the steering wheel. The original plan was to cut the shaft as needed and convert to an adaptor to the steering box but I have second thoughts about cutting a possible good shaft if it's just a splined shaft to hold the wheel. I have the column out of the 87 to cut up and use whatever wiring etc and possible detente parts to convert to the automatic.
  Anyone tried interchanging any of this? The part that bolts the column to the dash is broken and I hear that is normal. I have a mill so may try to make one out of a block of aluminum and paint it. Perhaps I can intergrate the detente function into it.

[RICH MUISE]

Jon..the unique thing about the '57 column is it's hollow so the horn wire passes down thru it. If you're keeping the stock steering wheel and changing to a solid column, you'll have to come up with an alternative for the horn as the guys that have switched to '58 boxes have done.

[hogwagon]

 Ordered the Borgeson unit from Summit today and may have it by the weekend. The 1987 wagon had an extention shaft from the column to the steering box with a rag joint coupler so I may be able to salvage some of it.

[hogwagon]

  Steering box made it so decided to install before reinstall engine. Will post steering info in Steering section.