Paint it or not?

[Ecode70D]

     After I painted the inside of my replacement deck lid, It dawned upon me that I probably should not have painted the undercoating / sound deadner.   So the question is....  Which way is correct?   Did Henry put the undercoating on the inside of the deck lid before it was painted or after it was painted.  When I finish installing the rubber seal tomorrow, I would like to put it back on the car.  But if the undercoating should be done in dull black, now would be the time to do it right.
     I have seen it done both ways.
      Thanks in advance for any and all responses.  Jay

[suede57ford]

The undercoating in the trunk lid was painted.   It seems they seam sealed, and sprayed the sound deadining(undercoat), then painted.

I think you did it correctly by painting over the undercoat.

[RICH MUISE]

Ditto what Pat said, Jay. My trunk undercoating was oem painted before I stripped it.

[Ecode70D]

Thanks Pat and Rich
    That will make life a little easier tomorrow.  Then I can get back to my favorite past time hobby.
                                          BLOCK SANDING !!!

    Is it ever going to end?   I really want to get some paint on it and start driving it this summer.  Every time I fix one small problem, two or three others appear.  Sometimes I feel like I'm peddling in reverse.   Does this happen to you guys also?
Jay
   

[Ford Blue blood]

Yup, every time the long board and the block come out... :<)

[RICH MUISE]

LOL....Seems like I was still a young man when I started mine. Kinda makes the TV shows that turn a pos daily driver into a show car in one week look kinda ridiculous..even with their 20 man crews.
All my early years experience with body work was of course old school, 'cause it WAS the old school. When I started this project, I did about 1/2 the car the "old way". I got the bare sheetmetal as perfect as I could with skin coats of filler where needed, and (new school) epoxy primer, blocking that looking for high and low spots. Usually several applications of the Epoxy. Now that stuff takes alot of time to block!! then just a primer surfacer.
Things got alot faster when I finally went to the high build for the blocking. I'd get my body work done, epoxy, just scuff (short window), then the high build coats. When that was blocked as good as I could get it, I laid on a last coat of highbuild and let it set until painting time..at least a couple months, then final block, seal base and clearcoat. Then you know what happens next!!

[Ecode70D]

LOL....Seems like I was still a young man when I started mine. Kinda makes the TV shows that turn a pos daily driver into a show car in one week look kinda ridiculous..even with their 20 man crews.
Things got a lot faster when I finally went to the high build for the blocking. I'd get my body work done, epoxy, just scuff (short window), then the high build coats. When that was blocked as good as I could get it, I laid on a last coat of highbuild

   Rich  even with the 20 man crews, they have to be cutting a lot of corners to finish a car in one week. 
   Tell me some more about that high build stuff that you used.  Is that something that you spray on?
    I put the trunk lid on today with the new gasket/ seal and now it fits crummy.   Tomorrow I'll park it in the sun for a few hours and see if that helps the new seal to settle down.    Jay

[RICH MUISE]

Jay....seals: all the problems everyone has with fitting seals to doors and trunks makes you wonder what is different from when they assembled cars at the factory. When I assembled my drivers door, I figured it would be much easier fitting the seal on while it was on the bench. I did not know about the drilling alignment holes in hinges before I disassembled the car , so I was starting from scratch trying to get the door aligned..hinges, striker plates, etc. Had a hell of a time. No matter what I did, I couldn't get the striker to engage. Finally I pulled the door as closed as I could get it with a ratcheting strap and left it there for a week. After that, I could get the striker to engage after a little more alignment and slamming the door. I left it closed for a few more weeks, then did some more alignment. Still needs some more, I'll need a helper for the final adjustment. Anyway, when I did the passenger side door, I decided to put the door on first and get it where I wanted it, and then put the seal on. Haven't done that yet, but at least I wasn't fighting the seal trying to get the door aligned. I did the same with my trunk...put it on first, and then I'll attach the seal.
high build: sorry...shortened the discription to the common abbreviated term. What I was refering to was a 2K high build primer. It is similar to a primer-surfacer with the exception that it has the ability to be sprayed on in multiple heavy coats. It sands wonderfully easy, particularly within a few days. Think of it as a glazing coat that can be sprayed on. The manufacturers will tell you it can be built up to a 1/16 if necessary (too much imho). It's kinda like body filler, where much of you put on may end up on the shop floor in the form of sanding dust. I used 3 gallons on my '57. back 2 or 3 years ago the Matrix brand I used was about 120 ish a gallon online. some of the brands my buddy at the hot rod shop uses were over 200 a gallon             

[RICH MUISE]

a few more thoughts on the primer...primers can be sent ups, I saved about 100 bucks, even with shipping, on a 2 gallon purchase over what my local suppier was charging me. I used a place out of El Paso (?) but there probably are places on the east coast. I'll see if I can find the website I used.
a 2.00 nozzle is best for the spraying. I used a 1.8 and had to thin it an additional 10% to get a good spray.
A thin coat will act just as a primer surfacer for areas like under the hood, door jambs,underside of trunk, ect. You DO NOT want to build it up high on inside corners, such as the trunk drain trough, the fender hood lip, and roof raingutter. A thick buildup on areas like that will have too much shrinkage causing it to pull away from the corners as it shrinks. Just be careful when your spraying areas that have to be shot from multiple angles (headlight suround) to minimize the buildup.
Don't know if that was more info than what you wanted, or not enough.

[Ecode70D]

Jay....seals: all the problems everyone has with fitting seals to doors and trunks makes you wonder what is different from when they assembled cars at the factory.

      I do wonder what is different from when they assembled cars at the factory.  Could it be that the new seals are somewhat thicker on the repro seals?   I know that they do not look the same.
      Not doing the alignment holes will present a problem later.  My doors are fitted to my car now as good as I'm going to get them without the seals.  My plan is to install the seals later.  It looks like the seals may go on OK because I tried fitting the doors with the seals taped on first.   So we'll see how that turns out.  I have always struggled with 57 - 58 door seals on customer cars and my own over the years.
      As I stated earlier, my deck lid is a replacement.  I fitted it to my car first, then drilled the alignment holes before taking it off to install the seal.  The fit with the seal on was horrible and I had to adjust the deck lid catch.  When I got the deck lid to close it had a big gap in it on the sides.  Leaving it in the sun today did help a lot.  It was left out all day, so that seems to be working for me.
      Your tips on  the primer were good and I'll go lightly on those corners that you mentioned where shrinking may occur.
       Now to switch horses...  Today (06/06/13 )I installed the doors on the 2dr wagon that I picked up a few weeks ago.  The person that took it apart did drill the hinges first.  I used the line up holes on the B post but just used the old paint to line up the hinge to the doors and everything went together perfectly.   Seems like I spent less than 15 minutes on each door.  That's just old unrestored stuff that I just wanted to get back together.  Go figure!!!
Jay