new member just getting started on my grandparents old car

[gasman826]

Interesting...using steel brake lines is not acceptable replacement material because it is not forever but lapping finish surface body panels is OK.  Even using the latest rust fighting materials, lap joints will rust.  Lap joints are used for structural panels that use spot welds and seam sealer.  Finished surface joints need to be butt welded and hammered.  The high end body shops cut off lap jointed quarters and throw them away only to start over and butt weld new quarters back on.  '57s have a couple of OEM lap joints on finished surfaces but they are buried in lead. 

Any fix is better the letting the vehicle fall apart but just recognize the difference between long term and temporary repairs.

[RICH MUISE]

Gary...you've been doing this for a lot longer than many of us, and I respect your knowledge and input. As I had said, many will tell you that butt welding is the best way to go. I don't argue that fact at all. That only applies though if you have the equiptment and the years of experience to do a professional quality butt/ hammer tig or gas weld, or the bucks to bring the car to a high end shop and have it done. Many of us are doing this with mig welders, and mig can't be hammer welded. I guess what I should have said is if you are mig welding your panels and have average skills, then it is easier(the word I used) to get a good weld with a lap joint. If  welding skills are minimal, then the accesive heat trying to get a good weld will cause many more problems. I started butt welding the rear quarters on my car when I first started, ended up switching to the lap joint with far fewer problems and better results.
We do differ in opinions "long term vs temporary" though. Yes, Ford had just a few "finished" panels that were lapped and covered with lead, but the entire car is 100% lap joints, finished or otherwise....my point being there may be other problems with a lap joint on a big panel, but rust isn't one of them if properly sealed. At least not any more than the rest of the car.

[davemustane1]

thanks guys I will give that a try

[RICH MUISE]

LOL...was hoping Gary and I's discusion didn't scare you off. Gary is a very experienced car builder, and I'm on my first build, so we tend to look at things in a different perspective sometimes. I was just going to add to what I said that if you are a very experienced welder, or have thousands to throw at somebody who is, the butt welding Gary is describing is the way to go. I had the feeling since you had asked for opinions on how to do it, your experience level was like most of us, and therefore the opinion I input. You'll almost always get different opinions on stuff..you just need to figure what is best for your particular situation. Building a car is a very rewarding and challenging experience, I hope you enjoy the project as much as I have mine.

[gasman826]

Another option would be panel adhesive.  No welding, no heat warp, no welder, no rust.  If a lap joint is going to be used, investigate this alternative.  Late models are being glued together with great success.

[RICH MUISE]

My buddy at the restoration shop swears by that stuff, as does Pat/Suede 57. When my wife's car got all the hail damage earlier this year, that's what the new roof was put on with.

[davemustane1]

thanks for the suggestions and I'm not trying to sound ungrateful but this ain't no vette